The Transfer Window Opens (for the FOURTH TIME IN TWO YEARS)

At Tag Heuer...

Courtesy of Tag Heuer

In the interest of transparency, I have about as much interest in the machinations of Tag Heuer and the LVMH watch stable writ-large as I do in hemorrhoid treatment. Actually, that's not fair. If and when I do develop hemorrhoids I suspect I will have more than a passing interest in the healing properties of Preparation H. But as they say, sometimes you have to lance a boil, and as this is outlet that talks about watches (allegedly), I guess we have to give "mighty Tag Heuer" some air time.

Okay, let's get to the heart of this. I have no doubt that the new person in the hot seat is probably more experienced and capable than the winners of the Arnault Family DNA Olympics. And add to that, Ms. Goasglas has been with Tag Heuer since 2018, and held some pretty big jobs with them. And it doesn't hurt that she is French, because although HQ is in La Chaux-de- Fonds, the real marching orders are coming from an arrondissement several train stops North by Northeast.


The timing is a wee bit quirky as well, why hold off for May 1? There is a little event that some people say is even more prestigious that The HYPE NYC ; )

The real question is this - what the f&*k has been going on at Tag Heuer and LVMH's watch division? Hublot has become an afterthought, and Zenith is starting to operate from the Sunk Cost Trap theory of business -

https://www.henkitime.com/2017/04/the-sunk-cost-trap.html

So what I'm driving at is this: for all his faults - and he has more than his share, the LVMH watch brands (Hublot, Tag, and Zenith) under Jean-Claude Biver's oversight at least seemed to know what they were doing. Or in Zenith's case what they were trying to do.

Regardless of the heroes and zeroes of the (recent) past, we at Henki Time wish Ms. Goasglas bon chance and Godspeed.
Tag Heuer may just be a dog that won't hunt, but we shall see.

The Transfer Window Has Opened...

At Tag Heuer -

Although Miss Tweed had floated this news the middle of last week, I am a bit of a traditionalist and also think when you are unceremoniously dumped by the love of your life, you should be afforded some measure of dignity. So I have been waiting for an official announcement which has now been made. Former Tag Heuer Antoine Pin has, in the words of the caring, compassionate folks in the LVMH PR Department:

“decided to start a new chapter in his career”.

I have to be honest, that level of sentimentality gets me all choked up...

How do you sum up the career of someone who, let's be honest, gave A LOT to Tag Heuer and what was to become the LVMH watch division over several decades? Ideally something more eloquent than what was offered by the wordsmiths in LVMH's gas factory.

But as Watch Town has taught yours truly not so long ago - you can give and give and give, but nothing trumps family. Now in truth, unless Arnault - The Even Younger, or Arnault - The Gleam In The Milkman's Eye is kitted-up and stretching on the touch line, LVMH Watch Week is going to have the not-so-discreet waft of a damp fart with the absence of a CEO of the most important jewel in the crown.

We shall wait, and we shall see, but we wish Mr. Pin good luck and Godspeed.

Reheated Leftovers - I Could Do It Better Myself - The Sales/Brand Manager

This first came out several years ago, but still rings true ; )

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Sales/Brand Manager

5:30 AM - The alarm goes off, and tempting though it may be to hit the snooze, you pull yourself out of bed, jump on your Peleton and commit yourself to another 30 minutes of fitness.

6:50 AM - Showered, you make yourself presentable, grab a coffee and fire up your laptop for the weekly video conference with HQ.

8:15 AM - your daughter calls to remind you that as it is your weekend, she will be waiting for you outside of school following STEM club at 4:00 PM.  You make a note in your phone and set the alarm for 3:45 to remind yourself.

9:05 AM - safely settled at your desk, you scroll through the "Butcher's Bill" to try and figure out why you got blindsided a few hours ago when HQ informed you that:

1.  You need to close Retail Partner A.  No real detail given.

2.  You need to continue to extend credit to retail partner Z, even though they have not paid their invoices for the past 5 months, hit you with $26,333 of "co-op" advertising expenses, and requiring a "junket" for the owner, the owner's current (not his wife) girlfriend, their assistant manager and 2 of their "loyal" customers to visit the HQ, factory, and maybe, you know if there's time, ski a little...

While reviewing all of the internal and external communication, you happen to glance up at a map of Los Angeles and it all becomes clear.  Retail Partner Z is opening up a new "f - you" store literally across the hall from Retail Partner A, and demanding (literally) that your boss in Switzerland cut off Retail Partner A.  You then remember one of the pictures on the wall at HQ in New York with your boss, the girlfriend (not wife) of your boss, Retail Partner Z and half of the Los Angeles Lakers, courtside at the Staple's Center.

And of course, it just so happens that you are based in (or at least near) Los Angeles...

10:00 AM - Retail Partner A's store has opened.  You meet the owner and the two of you head out of the mall to a nearby restaurant so that you can speak in private.  Retail Partner A was the first store you ever opened an account for your first brand, some 20 years ago.  To his credit, Retail Partner A says he totally understands, he has seen this coming.  You personally really like Retail Partner A.  He and his wife have always sent your daughter both birthday and Christmas presents.  They insist on picking up the check even when they are your guests, they are old-school, shook Sinatra's hand type of retailers.  You excuse yourself for a few minutes, go out to the street and call your boss.  You explain that as a sign of good will, you need authorization to buy back the product.  Considering that most of it is still untouched (as it was just delivered 3 weeks ago), in the wrapping, you can simply walk it across the hallway to Retail Partner Z when they open.  Your boss is in agreement so long as 90% of the pieces are re-sellable.  You do the mental math (you looked at the safe count while you were speaking with Retailer A, and there are 13 pieces that have some wear, which tips it to 15% of the inventory.

You go back in, tell them exactly what your boss told you, but suggest that they take 6 of the slightly worn pieces that are the most likely to sell, and blow them out at 40% off, ensuring that the store can make 10% profit off of them, and be in compliance for the buy-back.

You suggest an early lunch (it is now 11:45) and once again, Retail Partner A grabs the check and will not let you pay.

12:50 PM - You walk Retail Partner A back to their store, and take a moment to make some calls before your next appointment - 175 feet across the mall's "hallway" to visit the soon to be opened 5th location of Retail Partner Z.

Retail Partner Z makes you wait a good 20 minutes in the construction area.  Once done, Retail Partner Z excuses himself, and Junior (second born son) takes over the meeting.  In a very short timeframe (less than a year) Junior has managed to piss off every brand rep he has come in contact with, and driven out more than half of the sales staff at their flagship store in Beverly Hills.  You have resigned yourself to simply nodding and smiling.  But Junior wants to flex his muscles and decides to get pissy with you anyway.  He demands to know why Retail Partner A still is carrying your brand.  You explain that they (Retail Partner Z) will have the exclusive rights the day that they open - which is still 45 days out.

2:00 PM - Junior says - "Hey, I'm hungry.  Buy me lunch and we can talk about our order".  So off you go to lunch #2.  Junior, although he drove to work, decides that a few bourbons would be a good idea on a hot Los Angeles afternoon.  You pay the check (a little over $200 with tip), and Junior says that next time you need to go somewhere nicer - "You guys need to stop being so cheap!".

You walk Junior back to his car, send your best regards to his dad, and hope like hell he does not get stopped by the cops.  3:00 PM is a bit early in the day, but he insisted.

You walk back through the mall to pick up the book your daughter asked you to order on Amazon, and as you're walking to the garage, you hear someone calling to you.  You turn to see your fried Julia, who is the district manager for Unobtainium, one of the hottest watch brands that is finally going into independent retail.  She has just finished meeting with Retail Partner A, and is happy with the outcome.  She thanks you for the referral, and comments on how much people must love them as flowers and two gourmet baskets arrived along with 2 bottles of champagne during her pitch.  You make plans to see each other at the Las Vegas shows in June, and hop in your car.  You make a mental note that you will not be able to submit the gift baskets and flowers on your expense account as they are not part of your approved expenses.

3:45 - The alarm on your iPhone goes off, just as you are rounding the corner to pick up your daughter.  Yes, you are early, but you savor the moment, listen to the last 10 minutes of your podcast, and think about the weekend. 

The Transfer Window Opens - Welcome to Crazy Town

Well for those who were on the edge of their pool floats or chaise lounges, fear not! The transfer window is apparently still open and though this is more fish-wrap than news at this point, let's get caught up, shall we?

News was strategically placed with that bastion of impartial reporting Hodinkee (oops, coffee just shot out of my nose and I need to take break to wipe the screen) that "Arnault, the even younger" had a case of the fidgets and hiked up his leg to more firmly "mark" his territory around the halls of LVMH's watch division. Long story short? Former favorite of God (JC Biver) Ricardo Guadalupe (you may remember him from such jobs as "CEO of Hublot") has either decided, or been asked, to sling his hook and take it on the arches. Now the official word is that he will be assuming the position of "Honorary President" of Hublot, which essentially means he won't be required to go to board meetings and he can play out his contract. He is only 59, so I tend to doubt that this will be his last stop, but you never know.

I have no doubt this suits junior just fine as Guadalupe was the last of Biver's palace guards, and know the only thing he is running is Jack and shit, and Jack just left town.

But then the other intriguing turn - fresh off of a truly stunning few months at Tag Heuer (yes, that was sarcasm) Julian Tornare leaves La Chaux-de-Fonds in the rearview as he heads south to Geneva to lead product placement firm Hublot. 

Rumor has it they make watches as well ;)

Now the other funny bit in all of this is reading the commentary from some of my more well-heeled colleagues in Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estate claiming that Mr. G had spent too much time and focus on brand partnerships and famous "chums". It is clear that they slept through the Biver years at Hublot ; ) 

This is made even funnier when notable conspiracy theorist and pro football player Aaron Rogers was picked to "Reach His Star" (still the worst tagline ever) on behalf of Zenith. So look for more NFL quarterbacks to be joining the Hublot stable now that Tornare can indulge in fantasy football picks with a real budget to throw at them.

But then perhaps the goofiest turn of events came from independent brand Audemars Piguet. You might have heard of them, old family owned independent brand with one and a half product collections? It would seem that although the Royal Oak continues to be hotter than Satan's jockstrap, Hodinkee's personally anointed sage on all things horology and pop music has been tipped to be a special envoy. So needless to say, Hodinkee will now be able to rhapsodize about which version of the Royal Oak best sets off a tattoo sleeve with leather jacket sleeve zhuzhed. Give me strength...

Here is the info, straight from AP -

A unique collaboration.
We are thrilled to announce that we have appointed the iconic American singer, guitarist, and watch collector, John Mayer, as our “creative conduit”.
In this unique role, John Mayer will not only act as a channel of creativity, pushing the brand to explore new horizons and elevate our technical, aesthetic, and ergonomic developments, but he will also serve as an important translator between Audemars Piguet and watch enthusiasts worldwide. His collector’s eye and deep insight will guide us in innovating to meet the ever-evolving needs and expectations of our clients.

Okay, I have absolutely zero idea what a "creative conduit" is, but this new "job" for Mr. M truly begs credulity. I mean, unless he has some idea to save the 1/2 product family the ill-fated Code 11.59, 'cause that is one turd that seems to refuse to be flushed....

Do you mean to tell me that Audemars Piguet, with more cash than some small third-world GNPs, and with 1 of their 1.5 product families having one of the most sought after watches of all time needs a man notable for these bon mots which he dropped in an interview with noted watch collector enthusiast magazine, Playboy -

“My d–k is sort of like a white supremacist,” Mayer went on. “I’ve got a Benetton heart and a f—in David Duke cock. I’m going to start dating separately from my d–k.”

Well, I guess AP knows what their doing...

Let's hope Mr. Mayer keeps "little David Duke" in his pants, it's Le Brassus, not Las Vegas.

Timing...

Unless you have been living under a rock, you have no doubt been following the story of the new Tag Heuer / Kith limited editions. And yes, they are fun watches and have clearly caught the imagination of many. They have also created a bit of controversy as the timing of the release and subsequent coverage in Hodinkee followed so closely on the heels of a "Talking Watches" episode featuring the founder of Kith, Ronnie Fieg and his rather extensive collection of (now vintage, which I guess makes me vintage too)Tag Heuer Formula 1 watches. 

I am sort of so-so on the whole Talking Watches thing. The one with celebrity chef Emeril and his son was sorta' cringeworthy. With that said, this one with Mr. Fieg was quite good. His story about receiving his first Tag Heuer from his mother who worked for Tourneau was very relatable. 

With that said...

Hodinkee's editorial independence was stressed in a disclaimer at the header of the article announcing the new release of the Kith pieces. Again, it raised more than a few eyebrows as it appeared just after the interview with Mr. Fieg.

Don't that put the 'Dink in cowinkidink?

The other complaints are about pricing. And in fairness, the price is more than a tad ambitious for a watch of this composition (quartz, plastic, stainless steel). Well, to each their own, there is little doubt out there that these will sell through quickly.

It seems that watch journalism writ large has become sort of an oxymoron. It's unfortunate, but that seems to be the way it has slid down the slippery slope when retail sleeps in the same bunk as editorial. And, gentle reader, it's not just editorial abutting commerce. It goes deeper. When Watches and Wonders is paying the freight to bring journalists from around the world to cover their pre-programmed event, it is really the business equivalent of tying a pork-chop around your unattractive child's neck to get the dog to play with it. I have no doubt that those of us who got into this writing about watches thing did so out of passion and enthusiasm. I remember a time, way back when, we would all smile and shake hands with sincerity when we met at BaselWorld. Over time that friendly comradery morphed into open antagonism for many. Friendships faded, out and out skull duggery emerged. 

It used to be different, but times can and inevitably must...change.

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Volunteer Media - An Update From Henki

I wrote this back when I still owned and operated Tempus Fugit. A fair bit has happened in that time. I opted out of a job with a brand, I sold Tempus Fugit to someone who handed it to someone else, and it now appears to not be publishing anything, I accepted the job I have now which is working for MassHire - we help people find jobs and train for new careers. It is very satisfying work albeit with very long hours. Owing to this the publication pace and nature of Henki Time is not as manic as others. With that said, I still feel I have something to say, and this piece is one that I think still rings true. So brand owners and brand managers - don't forget to support the volunteer press. 

Even when we say things that might cut a bit too close to the bone ; )

A much younger Henki teaching English in Villa do Conde Portugal in 1995. You might recognize the gentleman on the far right as the current Secretary General of the United Nations.

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Volunteer Media - An Update From Henki

Despite what some folks think, the majority of the press covering the watch business these days is of a voluntary nature.  This is largely the result of brands cutting advertising budgets, and people going back to former occupations, getting married, or finding better ways to earn a living and spend their free (and not so free) time.

So gentle reader, an inside look at a day in the life of Henki -

5:30 - Whether I like it or not, Tallulah (the older cat and Executive Publisher) is awake and waiting to be fed.  Sabrina (the younger cat and Editor in Chief) is waiting as well.  I head downstairs, turn up the heat in the house, and feed the cats.  I gulp down my morning tablets with a glass of water, have the first of several espressos and head back upstairs to the office.

5:45 - emails reviewed, and...
Not a sausage! 
Not only has watch advertising money dried up, watch brands are producing fewer and fewer models, and some have made their PR functions redundant.  News is scant, and unlike some of my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate, I prefer not to manufacture it.

6:15 - Go down and make a coffee for Wendy who is up and getting ready for work.

6:25 - I receive a follow-up email from the PR manager at Brand Y.  Y for "why won't you write a paid piece about us?", which I have explained a few times - I don't write advertorials.  I realize my unwillingness to do so is probably holding me back financially, but a man must have a code ; )

6:45 - Email in-box pings, and... 

Good news! I am the winner of the Nigerian National Lottery! Maybe I'll buy Watch Time from Ebner so I can finally have my own magazine!

7:15 - Finally I decide that as no news is forthcoming, I will write an editorial type piece. The Grey Market is always good for a few hundred words, and is showing no sign of slowing down.  Oh, wait! A PR staffer from Brand X has sent me a personal email with a story about a watch event featuring their brand, in Marblehead, Massachusetts (which I could literally have walked to from my house as it is the next town over), with several "Important and Respected" watch journalists who were flown in from New York and Europe a few days previous. The PR person feels that as I live nearby it would be great to have a story about this wonderful and glamorous event (lots of swag, 4 star meals, etc.) from a local perspective! I take a beat, decide to ignore the irritation that essentially - this person wants me to write a pr piece about an event that I wasn't even invited to even though my attendance would have cost Brand X $0... and I simply don't reply.

8:00 - Kiss Wendy and wish her a good day as she heads out the door.

8:35 - Hastily showered and dressed, lunch made, it's off to work.

8:55 - Parking lot duty.  Where I work we have very limited parking, and as such the students have been informed that they cannot park in the back lot.  Needless to say, it is a game of cat and mouse as several try to slip in anyway to avoid parking on the street.  This, in turn, prevents other staff members and board members (who have a meeting today) from parking.  While being the Director of Adult Education and Workforce Development has its perks, playing parking lot "sizzler" is not one of them ; )

9:05 - Call with my contact at the Dept. of Education office.  Nothing major, clarifications regarding programming made, and all seems under control.

9:35 - Call from reception, someone is interested in learning English, could I come down and speak with them?

10:30 - Class break time.  I try to speak with each of the four teachers, make sure everything is under control.

10:45 - Back to work on the grant application.  It is due on Friday, signatures are needed from the boss, and I still need to nail down the budget.

12:15 - Text message from brand manager in Switzerland.  Could I recommend a sales manager in Florida.  I file that under "not pressing" and dive back into "grant writing land".

12:30 - Lunch with the teaching team.  Brief ad hoc meeting to review a few items coming up.

13:45 - Call from former student of mine who is interviewing for a job. Would I act as a reference?

2:30 - 30 minute walk around the surrounding area to clear the head.

3:25 - Personal email pops on my iPhone, and I see that the watch from Brand X that three of the big outlets already wrote about 2 days ago is suddenly now a press release for "the rest of us".  I delete the message.

4:15 - draft of the grant application is finally ready to be reviewed by the boss.

4:45 - The phone rings just as I am leaving the office.  Meeting arranged for Wednesday morning to review our proposed adult education program with a new partner one town over.

5:15 - Stop at Trader Joe's for dinner items.

5:35 - Feed the cats dinner, scoop out the litter box, make a coffee and fire-up the laptop.

5:55 - Complete text edit for one of the brands that I "side-hustle" for, and respond to a customer query for another.  Yes, the watch in question is available, yes, it does cost that much, no there will be no discount!

6:17 - Phone rings, it's Japan (not the whole country, but one of the brands with whom I have a relationship) with an urgent request for a special event, could I help organize it?

7:25 - Dinner is nearly ready, and Wendy arrives home after a long day.

9:26  - Story lined up for tomorrow involving a review of a new brand's watch.

10:25 - After 15 minutes of futility, I give up trying to read any more of the book I've been working on since Christmas.  Turn out the lights and off to sleep.  Tomorrow is another exciting day in watch media!

Family Business

The word came down from LVMH HQ that Frédéric Arnault was now in charge of all things watches within the group. And with all due respect to Hodinkee (and if the comment section is anything to go by, I am not alone in my feelings), Mr. Anault's mercurial rise within the ranks of LVMH's watch division seems unlikely to happen anywhere else in Watch Town. The tone of the coverage from the 'dink was bordering on sycophantic. And not for nothing, it is understood that LVMH has invested in Hodinkee.

Family Business

It is not lost on anyone in the watch business that many of the most successful brands are businesses that have been started and run by individual families. Over time, several family owned brands made the decision to bring in outside talent to manage their brands. The recent departure of Mr. B at Audemars Piguet is a good example of this. AP could have engaged in the DNA Olympics, but opted for competent management that didn't happen to fall off the same family tree. 

It can also be said that there are family owned (and controlled) brands that have (by and large) remained in the family and gone from strength to strength - the name Stern still rings out loud and clear in Watch Town. But it is also important to understand that Thierry Stern grew up in the business, and spent years (not months) learning it. 

The Boss's Kid

I am no stranger to enjoying the largesse of perceived (and possibly real) nepotism. My father was a country club manager and as a teenager a job was arranged for me in the locker room of the Elyria Country Club where I spent my weekends and summers polishing members shoes and cleaning their golf clubs. I wasn't paid any more or less than my colleagues, but my hours were wildly elastic and absolutely to the benefit of my ability to go play in soccer games that my faither was coaching. I was not quite made the CEO of a watch brand, but I suspect the impact of nepotism (both perceived and real) has on the people you work with is a pretty universal and cross cultural one. You will always be judged with more than a soupçon of doubt.

Now it is safe to say that Mr. Arnault did not grow up in the watch business. And that is not necessarily a disqualifying factor. Several leaders in Watch Town came through different channels. But invariably, these folks had other experience in other industries. Mr. Arnault's CV prior to joining Tag Heuer was a little thin. His age at that time was in question by many. For me, in hindsight, I would not point a finger at age, but rather a lack of experience. We fast forward now some several years later, and Mr. Arnault certainly has some experience under his belt (both business and life). But to say that he single handedly made Tag Heuer a success is myopic (sorry Hodinkee). A lot of time and effort from a LOT of people before Mr. Arnault arrived paved the way for the path that Tag was and continues to be on. But as I have learned over more than 20 years in Watch Town, it is more often than not the family heir that receives the laurels as the last person standing.

Reality Check 

Regardless of what watch fans, the business world, or we members of the Fourth and Fifth Estate think and claim to be expert on, there is one simple, plain reality - LVMH is an extremely large, and by all accounts extremely successful juggernaut in the luxury business world. And with all due respect to all sides, it is a business that is essentially owned by the Arnault family. And to put it even more bluntly - Hublot, Tag Heuer, and Zenith were not exactly robust brands on their own. They needed (and still need) the group to support them, there is really no denying it. 

And One Last Bowl of Truth Soup

It is easy to be earnest and nostalgic about brands. It is even easier to shout that "I could do it better!" Watch fans are not entirely unlike fans of professional sports teams - we are a somewhat obsessive, overly opinionated lot that are convinced that if we were given the keys to the castle and a seat behind the big mahogany desk we would somehow know better and be hugely successful. And that just isn't true.

I think Mr. Arnault deserves the opportunity to prove himself now that he has landed in the hot seat. But to the historical revisionists out there, let's not forget that Tag's success is currently more down to the efforts put in prior. It doesn't mean Tag won't continue to prosper, but let's be real about assigning credit when we're handing out the roses ; )

Dear Breitling - Shop Your Closet!

There are a GAZILLION "Sleeping Beauty" brands out there. And seeing as Breitling just "whipped it out" to buy an (let's be honest) essentially dormant brand, let's take a moment and consider what US $69 million could have been directed towards given the presence of an  already existing red-headed step-child living somewhat ignominiously under Breitling's roof. I speak, gentle reader. of Kelek. 

Formerly located just around the corner from Eberhard in La Chaux-de-Fonds, it merged / was purchased by Breitling in 1997. Prior to this time there had been a few iterations, but the short-form is that Kelek focused on mechanical movements and had worked with Dubois-Dépraz. It is also worth noting that in the 90s, Kelek was one of the largest manufacturers of automatic, mechanical chronographs. It is also curious to note that Kelek developed a working relationship with one Seiko (Hattori at the time), thus perhaps foreshadowing the great Tag Heuer 1887 movement fiasco of 2009 ; )

In short? For the price of, well, ZERO, the brain trust in Grenchen could have directed time, effort and a much smaller amount of cash towards rebuilding and relaunching something that would only be on life-support for a short period of time, and out of the "recovery room" even faster. But is also, admittedly, not the stuff of nocturnal emissions (that's wet dream to you) from watch nerds swearing up and down that they would buy a Universal Geneve if it were ever revived. These folks are, by and large, the horological equivalent of the now infamous (and largely fictitious) 400 pound guy "hacking a political party" from his bed. Hypothetically they exist, but it begs the question as to why the supply of vintage Universal Geneve watches are not exactly thin on the ground. 

Okay, that's not fair. I am sure that there are some folks out there, but the majority of watch buyers with ready cash listening to Beyonce name drop AP and SPENDING said cash are not borderline or current AARP members with purchasing decision-making impulses driven by nostalgic erections.

Just saying.

So back to the earlier question - when you have a viable brand already in your house, why go out shopping for something that costs you a WHOLE LOT more money than you really need (or likely should want) to spend? A lot of it is sex appeal - be it real or (I suspect in this case) presumed. But a lot of it comes back to what that other great commentator on the watch business opined in Moneyball, fear of looking bad and an inability to objectively and rationally asses value (both perceived and real) -

“There was but one question he left unasked, and it vibrated between his lines: if gross miscalculations of a person's value could occur on a baseball field, before a live audience of thirty thousand, and a television audience of millions more, what did that say about the measurement of performance in other lines of work? If professional baseball players could be over- or under valued, who couldn't?”
― Michael Lewis, Moneyball: The Art of Winning an Unfair Game

What is known is that Kelek would have likely made for a fantastic Oakland A. It was, and continues to be a potentially wildly successful brand if the owner / operator would spend one one-hundredth of the time, energy, and money that Mr. Kerns and Breitling are ready to hurl at UG. But then again, when you consider floating an idea like Kelek, you are flying in the face of the marketing logic of a brand that has been worshiping at the altar of stardom (and its reflective glow) for many years. So we'll let Moneyball summarize why activating Kelek would have made a HELL of a lot more sense than spending the kind of money that usually isn't exchanged without the aid of a getaway car.

“The inability to envision a certain kind of person doing a certain kind of thing because you've never seen someone who looks like him do it before is not just a vice. It's a luxury. What begins as a failure of the imagination ends as a market inefficiency: when you rule out an entire class of people from doing a job simply by their appearance, you are less likely to find the best person for the job.”
― Michael Lewis, Moneyball: The Art of Winning an Unfair Game

And yes, it is a metaphor. The "certain kind of person" is a certain kind of brand - in this instance Kelek ; )

Follow the Leader

I know Jack Carlson a little bit. He is unfailingly kind and generous with his time, has good taste, and he tends to follow a guideline that has also been attributed to Ralph Lauren. Not trying to figure out what people will like, but rather taking what he likes and betting that what he likes, they will like. By and large he has been on the money. When I first encountered Jack and his business partner David, it was in a small pop-up on Newbury Street in Boston. fast-forward to 2023 and Rowing Blazers has launched several sold-out collaborations and own brand items. They have moved into watches with the guidance of Jack's friend from his Georgetown and Oxford days, Eric Wind. Yes, that Eric Wind. It seems nice, friendly folks bond with nice, friendly folks ; ) The results have been impressive, with a few capsules from Seiko, a collaboration with Zodiac & Harrys Bar, and the invitation only Tudor x Rowing Blazers (of which one example bearing JEH is on my wrist as I type this).

So it goes without saying, we were all wondering might be coming next. This past Thursday there was a reveal in New York City, followed by the release of the Rowing Blazers x Bamford TAG Heuer Carrera -

Courtesy of Rowing Blazers

According to the press release, Jack had longed to make something that drew on the inspiration of a Tag Heuer Yacht Timer. So partnering with George Bamford, a very special and very limited edition of the Tag Heuer Carrera has been brought to fruition.

Courtesy of Rowing Blazers

It is limited to 99 pieces and available directly from Rowing Blazers. It is priced at $8,900.

Courtesy of Rowing Blazers

You can find it here -

Rowing Blazers x Bamford Tag Heuer

The Transfer Window Might Be Opening...

At LVMH.

You can get a much more detailed report from the folks at Watch Pro, who in turn cite an article from NZZ. Long story short, word around the campfire is that that "Arnault the Even Younger" - Frédéric Arnault is getting an upgrade and moving over to Bulgari in what is being referred to as a senior role. Neither LVMH or Jean-Christophe Babin seem to have much to say on the matter. 

On the upside for Julien Tornare, he will not have to move too far in this latest game of musical chairs as Le Locle is within walking distance to La Chaux-de-Fonds. Because if the rumors are to believed, he will be moving a few miles down the road to take over junior's spot at TAG Heuer. Who will "reach their star" (still the worst tag line ever) as the new CEO at Zenith remains to be seen, as Arnault the Elder may have run out of offspring.

So we shall wait, and we shall see.

It's Been A Minute...

Ladies and gentleman, it is my sincere pleasure to introduce you the Henki Time - The Bulldog Edition

www.henkitime.com

As former regular readers will know, I handed the keys to Tempus Fugit to a new owner nearly a year ago. And while that may or may not have been the right decision for me, I respect the new owner/ owners efforts and wish them well.

With that said, I found that I was (more often than not) reading a lot of the same thing in virtually every outlet. And I had enough kind messages from both brands and readers that I thought it might be time to fly a new flag, and thus I welcome you to Henki Time - the Bulldog Edition.

What the hell is a bulldog edition?

For those of you unfamiliar, a bulldog edition harkens back to the old days of the newspaper business. A "bulldog edition" was an early (or even earliest) edition of the newspaper on a given morning. Large scale events would necessitate that newspaper publishers create whole entire editions to accommodate breaking news. Yes young people, there was a time before cable news and the internet...

So what are we covering? New releases, interviews, industry news. And we will be diving a bit beyond just watches, so we encourage you to check in from time to time.

So, don't call it a comeback ; )

I look forward to continuing the conversation!

Henki

North Shore, MA, USA

January 19, 2023 

Summer Repeat: Brand Ambassadors - 3 I'd Like To See

So another Olympic year is upon us, and another opportunity for a watch brand to do something bold and dynamic. And maybe I am a hopeless romantic, but I will keep posting about this until some watch brand out there claiming to be "disruptive" or "bold" is ready to put their money where their marketing and advertising mouths are.

So gentle reader, once more, because I can (and will) do this until I don't need to any longer, a summer repeat -

Brand Ambassadors - 3 I'd Like To See

So, it is time once again for the "semi-annual" Tempus Fugit appeal to the PR & Marketing Mavens of Watch Town to take a bold step to recognize 3 athletes who set out to win the Olympic 200 meters in Mexico City, and wound up changing the world. 

So not unlike a pitch meeting, I am going to throw some of Watch Town's favorite bon mots first:

Tag Heuer's
"Don't Crack Under Pressure" 

Tudor's 
"Born To Dare"


And throw this picture -

Not feeling that one?  How about this for the big dogs in Biel/Bienne -

Courtesy of the AOC Media Centre

I am sure that someone on the Omega team could come up with a snappy tagline.  Maybe:
"Recording the moments that changed the world."

Watch Town is, indeed, a curious place.  There is almost a desperate longing to be attached to celebrities, star athletes and history makers.  And don't get me wrong, I like sports, movies and astronauts as much as the next guy or gal.  But after everything is said and done - it's just talk.  
Empty and pointless.

Now I know what you might be thinking - "Don't get political, stick to watches". Curious to relate, human rights are not and should not be viewed as political. And honestly? The three men standing on the Olympic podium in Mexico City back on that October night in 1968 weren't calculating how much money they would be pulling in from shoe sponsorships or becoming watch brand ambassadors, or getting a guest appearance on Hawaii Five-0. They were thinking about something bigger than themselves. They were feeling then, like so many of us are feeling now - that the world needed to change.

Peter Norman is no longer with us, but his nephew the film maker Matt Norman is, as are Mr. Smith and Mr. Carlos, still putting themselves out there, giving talks and educating. And maybe I'm just sentimental, but I think it would be nice to see some real heroes as brand ambassadors.

So Omega, Tudor, Tag-Heuer, Breitling or anyone else out there - here are some brand ambassadors that actually stood for, and continue to stand for something positive. Even more than 50 years later.


Watch Town execs still not feeling it?  Okay, maybe a bit of Henki-lore to help push the idea:

Tommie Smith like John Carlos and Peter Norman was pretty much cast out of the world of track and field. He went on to lecture and teach and along the way wound up in Oberlin, Ohio where he (if memory serves) taught sociology and also coached track. I attended Eastwood Elementary with his son Kevin. Truth be told, at the ripe old age of 6 or 7, I had no idea who Tommie Smith was, and certainly less of a clue about the Mexico City Olympics.  We were in the library, and he said 
"I want to show you a picture of my dad."  And he grabbed the most recent copy of the Guiness Book of World Records and turned to the page where his dad's photo and world record were listed.
"My dad's still the fastest man in the world!" At least, that's what I remember him saying.


If you want to know more about the story behind that seismic event in 1968, and learn more about the "third man" - Australian Peter Norman as well as Tommie Smith and John Carlos, I highly recommend the film Salute -

Greeting Card Holidays and Unrealistic Expectations

I used to sell watches. I also used to write the copy used by other people to help them sell their watches. And I was not above weaponizing FOMO to sell watches. I remember getting the sales memos from Tag, Baume, Cartier and others pleading with us to push watches priced $1,800 and up for Valentine's, Mother's, Father's and every other Hallmark Greeting Card holiday out there - both real or imagined. I once, only half joking as the sword of corporate retribution was dangling over my neck, penned this tagline for a diamond-encrusted piece:
"She carried you for nine months"
And for the man who brought you into this world, and can take you back out?
"He gave you life, consider this a meager thank you".

And as we are rapidly approaching "Dads and Grads" season, the Tempus Fugit inbox is full-to- bursting with watches priced around the price point of an entry level Toyota and the request that I include Watch X in my Mother's Day Gift Guide. This of course would mean I would have to bump my advertorials for Kay Jewelers and 1-800 Flowers! In other words, it's clear that the guys and gals in these PR agencies have not read Tempus Fugit before reaching out to for a Mother's Day favor.

Now curious to relate, if you were to visit the TAG Heuer or Hublot booth at any watch fair, you will see my picture carefully hidden at the reception desk with the instructions:
"Under no circumstances should you let this guy in, even if he has an appointment!"
Well, now that Mr. Biver has a less active role, you never know, I might get to see the inside of the booths once more ; )

And even more curious to relate? I have been watching Mr. Biver's interviews from a year or two ago and the one thing he keeps coming back to is gifting watches. What I loved about his comments about this were that these were carefully thought out purchases, with real intention and consideration for the person he was giving the watches to. Also important to note - these were significant event/holidays like birthdays and anniversaries. 

In other words, this was not a knee-jerk reaction to some feverish pitch to BUY, SPEND MONEY!

So, being the contrarian that I am, I would like to encourage something, well, contrary to the marketing brain trust of Watch Town -

Buy watches as gifts! But not just any gift or just any holiday, because then it ceases to be special. Buy a great watch for a graduation gift! Buy your dad a watch you know he would love but would never get for himself. Buy your partner a watch when they get that big promotion. These are all great reasons to head down to your independent retailer and buy something special. And hey - why not engrave it? And one other thing? A great watch does not necessarily mean expensive. It means that you thought about what the person RECEIVING the watch would like, not just what the PR agency told you to get them. Whether it be a Swatch or a Rolex, make it significant, and make it special. If you just feel the need to give something because the greeting card companies are telling you need to give something? Well, then give your Mother, Father, partner something else that is special - give them your time.

A Few Minutes With the Black Badger - James Thompson

Here’s to the crazy ones. The misfits. The rebels. The troublemakers. The round pegs in the square holes. The ones who see things differently. They’re not fond of rules. And they have no respect for the status quo. You can quote them, disagree with them, glorify or vilify them. About the only thing you can’t do is ignore them. Because they change things. They push the human race forward. And while some may see them as the crazy ones, we see genius. Because the people who are crazy enough to think they can change the world, are the ones who do.

Steve Jobs

As a now world-renowned contrarian, I appreciate the people out there who chart their own 

course. For the most part, the thinking in the watch business is beyond antiquated. To paraphrase from Michael Lewis and Moneyball, more often than not the decision making paradigm is governed by picking the option that is least likely to fail, rather than the one that might just be crazy enough to work.  In essence, the potential pain and associated anxiety of looking bad drives most of the folks in Watch Town down the path of least resistance. Well, as the advertising revenues of Tempus Fugit will bear out, I am a fan of anyone who is ready to tilt at the occasional windmill or two.

And now, without further adieu, a few minutes with the Black Badger himself, James Thompson - 

Courtesy of James Thompson

Henki (James Henderson) - What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

James Thompson (Black Badger) - Hmmm when I was about 10 I got a Swatch Radar from my parents for Christmas. I recall being a little offended that I got a “small” one while my older brother got a large one. No wonder I bought a bigass Bell & Ross BRO1 as my first “real” watch around 2008. A tank that i absolutely adore.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Henki - When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up?

James Thompson - A pilot. Top Gun was the first VHS tape we got growing up, and my brother and I would watch it every single day when we got home from elementary school. My mom still knows all the dialogue from overhearing it hundreds of times. I didn’t discover art or design until after high school


Henki - Where did you go to school? What did you study?

James Thompson - I bounced around a bit with what I thought I wanted to do and who I wanted to be. I studied advertising production as I have a massive love for good tv commercials. I did a masters degree in industrial design between the Emily Carr Institute in Vancouver and HDK design school in Göteborg Sweden where I live now.


Henki - How did you acquire your "nom de lume" - Black Badger? 

 
James Thompson - Honestly? I thought it sounded cool and kinda SpecOps. I think I read too many Tom Clancy novels. I didn’t take it very seriously in the early days but now that I am where I am, the name kinda fits. I'm trying my hardest not to fit in.


Henki - How did you get involved in the watch business?

James Thompson - I was messing around with custom watch straps with Carl Evans of GasGasBones in the UK. This got me in friendly with Bell & Ross and Graham watches. Those were my first awkward steps in the industry. I’d say Stepan Sarpaneva has been the biggest mentor for me along the way though. He’s not a scary as most think, ha ha!

Courtesy of James Thompson

Henki - And while we're trying to get to know who the Black Badger (the designer) is, what exactly is Black Badger the business?

James Thompson - Meh who knows. Call it a materials orphanage and we can go away friends here!

Henki - In some ways, for some people, it seems like you came out of nowhere. Could you shed a little light on your journey from Canadian art student transplant to global watch sensation?

Courtesy of David Svensson

James Thompson - I think it really was just a case of the right place at the right time. I’m kinda like the Forrest Gump of design. And by keeping to my own aesthetic and not trend-chasing, it’s let me establish a rather strong visual identity in a relatively short timeframe.


Henki - Now as a fellow Northern Youth who found himself in Scandinavia, I have to ask - was this a plan, an happy accident, or something else?

James Thompson - Ha ha I was in the process of flunking out of my design school in Vancouver and was really looking for a totally different direction. We had a Swedish exchange student with us and I just loved the way Scandinavia approaches design. Much more holistic and thought-out, rather than just cool sexy shapes. I dig that way of working.


Henki - What is the best part about the work you do with watch brands?

James Thompson - I truly love pushing established brands out of their comfort zone. It tends to rivitalize the brands themselves, lets the maybe shake some dust off. And hey if it all goes to shit they can just blame it on me. Ha ha!

Henki - I realize that I might be in the minority here - but I thought that the Tag Heuer Coffee collaboration was the Witches Britches!  

Were you surprised by the reception?

Courtesy of Bamford Watch Department

James Thompson - That’s my wife’s favorite piece I’ve ever done actually. Both the visual look and the story behind it. The fact that it’s made from coffee isn’t super earth-shattering but the appearance and the detail of the dial I think is super interesting. Some people just thought we were taking the piss and joking around. Not at all the case. Introducing unconventional materials into modern watchmaking is what pays my rent, so no I don’t play around. Especially when it’s someone else’s brand I’m guest-starring with. But some of the online comments were just idiotic. People like to take shots at George Bamford and I really don’t tolerate that in a public setting. Purists won’t like what we do, and that’s fine. They weren’t invited to the revolution anyways.


Henki - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

James Thompson - In another life I would have been a chef I think. I get super inspired by all these fantastically creative people who travel the world and create amazing recipes from local and exciting ingredients. I mean have you heard Anthony Bourdain go off about a certain cut of meat, or Jose Andres making a Michelin-Starred dessert using Doritos and broccoli or something insanely unexpected. Pure alchemy and I love it.


Henki - What advice do you have for the next Black Badger out there?

James Thompson  - My weather-control device is almost complete...

Brand Ambassadors - 3 I'd Like To See

So, it is time once again for the "semi-annual" Tempus Fugit appeal to the PR & Marketing Mavens of Watch Town to take a bold step to recognize 3 athletes who set out to win the Olympic 200 meters in Mexico City, and wound up changing the world. 

So not unlike a pitch meeting, I am going to throw some of Watch Town's favorite bon mots first:

Tag Heuer's
"Don't Crack Under Pressure" 

Tudor's 
"Born To Dare"


And throw this picture -

Not feeling that one?  How about this for the big dogs in Biel/Bienne -

Courtesy of the AOC Media Centre

I am sure that someone on the Omega team could come up with a snappy tagline.  Maybe:
"Recording the moments that changed the world."

Watch Town is, indeed, a curious place.  There is almost a desperate longing to be attached to celebrities, star athletes and history makers.  And don't get me wrong, I like sports, movies and astronauts as much as the next guy or gal.  But after everything is said and done - it's just talk.  
Empty and pointless.

Now I know what you might be thinking - "Don't get political, stick to watches". Curious to relate, human rights are not and should not be viewed as political. And honestly? The three men standing on the Olympic podium in Mexico City back on that October night in 1968 weren't calculating how much money they would be pulling in from shoe sponsorships or becoming watch brand ambassadors, or getting a guest appearance on Hawaii Five-0. They were thinking about something bigger than themselves. They were feeling then, like so many of us are feeling now - that the world needed to change.

Peter Norman is no longer with us, but his nephew the film maker Matt Norman is, as are Mr. Smith and Mr. Carlos, still putting themselves out there, giving talks and educating. And maybe I'm just sentimental, but I think it would be nice to see some real heroes as brand ambassadors.

So Omega, Tudor, Tag-Heuer, Breitling or anyone else out there - here are some brand ambassadors that actually stood for, and continue to stand for something positive. Even more than 50 years later.


Watch Town execs still not feeling it?  Okay, maybe a bit of Henki-lore to help push the idea:

Tommie Smith like John Carlos and Peter Norman was pretty much cast out of the world of track and field. He went on to lecture and teach and along the way wound up in Oberlin, Ohio where he (if memory serves) taught sociology and also coached track. I attended Eastwood Elementary with his son Kevin. Truth be told, at the ripe old age of 6 or 7, I had no idea who Tommie Smith was, and certainly less of a clue about the Mexico City Olympics.  We were in the library, and he said -
"I want to show you a picture of my dad."  And he grabbed the most recent copy of the Guiness Book of World Records and turned to the page where his dad's photo and world record were listed.
"My dad's still the fastest man in the world!" At least, that's what I remember him saying.


If you want to know more about the story behind that seismic event in 1968, and learn more about the "third man" - Australian Peter Norman as well as Tommie Smith and John Carlos, I highly recommend the film Salute -