Reheated Leftovers - I Could Do It Better Myself - The Sales/Brand Manager

This first came out several years ago, but still rings true ; )

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Sales/Brand Manager

5:30 AM - The alarm goes off, and tempting though it may be to hit the snooze, you pull yourself out of bed, jump on your Peleton and commit yourself to another 30 minutes of fitness.

6:50 AM - Showered, you make yourself presentable, grab a coffee and fire up your laptop for the weekly video conference with HQ.

8:15 AM - your daughter calls to remind you that as it is your weekend, she will be waiting for you outside of school following STEM club at 4:00 PM.  You make a note in your phone and set the alarm for 3:45 to remind yourself.

9:05 AM - safely settled at your desk, you scroll through the "Butcher's Bill" to try and figure out why you got blindsided a few hours ago when HQ informed you that:

1.  You need to close Retail Partner A.  No real detail given.

2.  You need to continue to extend credit to retail partner Z, even though they have not paid their invoices for the past 5 months, hit you with $26,333 of "co-op" advertising expenses, and requiring a "junket" for the owner, the owner's current (not his wife) girlfriend, their assistant manager and 2 of their "loyal" customers to visit the HQ, factory, and maybe, you know if there's time, ski a little...

While reviewing all of the internal and external communication, you happen to glance up at a map of Los Angeles and it all becomes clear.  Retail Partner Z is opening up a new "f - you" store literally across the hall from Retail Partner A, and demanding (literally) that your boss in Switzerland cut off Retail Partner A.  You then remember one of the pictures on the wall at HQ in New York with your boss, the girlfriend (not wife) of your boss, Retail Partner Z and half of the Los Angeles Lakers, courtside at the Staple's Center.

And of course, it just so happens that you are based in (or at least near) Los Angeles...

10:00 AM - Retail Partner A's store has opened.  You meet the owner and the two of you head out of the mall to a nearby restaurant so that you can speak in private.  Retail Partner A was the first store you ever opened an account for your first brand, some 20 years ago.  To his credit, Retail Partner A says he totally understands, he has seen this coming.  You personally really like Retail Partner A.  He and his wife have always sent your daughter both birthday and Christmas presents.  They insist on picking up the check even when they are your guests, they are old-school, shook Sinatra's hand type of retailers.  You excuse yourself for a few minutes, go out to the street and call your boss.  You explain that as a sign of good will, you need authorization to buy back the product.  Considering that most of it is still untouched (as it was just delivered 3 weeks ago), in the wrapping, you can simply walk it across the hallway to Retail Partner Z when they open.  Your boss is in agreement so long as 90% of the pieces are re-sellable.  You do the mental math (you looked at the safe count while you were speaking with Retailer A, and there are 13 pieces that have some wear, which tips it to 15% of the inventory.

You go back in, tell them exactly what your boss told you, but suggest that they take 6 of the slightly worn pieces that are the most likely to sell, and blow them out at 40% off, ensuring that the store can make 10% profit off of them, and be in compliance for the buy-back.

You suggest an early lunch (it is now 11:45) and once again, Retail Partner A grabs the check and will not let you pay.

12:50 PM - You walk Retail Partner A back to their store, and take a moment to make some calls before your next appointment - 175 feet across the mall's "hallway" to visit the soon to be opened 5th location of Retail Partner Z.

Retail Partner Z makes you wait a good 20 minutes in the construction area.  Once done, Retail Partner Z excuses himself, and Junior (second born son) takes over the meeting.  In a very short timeframe (less than a year) Junior has managed to piss off every brand rep he has come in contact with, and driven out more than half of the sales staff at their flagship store in Beverly Hills.  You have resigned yourself to simply nodding and smiling.  But Junior wants to flex his muscles and decides to get pissy with you anyway.  He demands to know why Retail Partner A still is carrying your brand.  You explain that they (Retail Partner Z) will have the exclusive rights the day that they open - which is still 45 days out.

2:00 PM - Junior says - "Hey, I'm hungry.  Buy me lunch and we can talk about our order".  So off you go to lunch #2.  Junior, although he drove to work, decides that a few bourbons would be a good idea on a hot Los Angeles afternoon.  You pay the check (a little over $200 with tip), and Junior says that next time you need to go somewhere nicer - "You guys need to stop being so cheap!".

You walk Junior back to his car, send your best regards to his dad, and hope like hell he does not get stopped by the cops.  3:00 PM is a bit early in the day, but he insisted.

You walk back through the mall to pick up the book your daughter asked you to order on Amazon, and as you're walking to the garage, you hear someone calling to you.  You turn to see your fried Julia, who is the district manager for Unobtainium, one of the hottest watch brands that is finally going into independent retail.  She has just finished meeting with Retail Partner A, and is happy with the outcome.  She thanks you for the referral, and comments on how much people must love them as flowers and two gourmet baskets arrived along with 2 bottles of champagne during her pitch.  You make plans to see each other at the Las Vegas shows in June, and hop in your car.  You make a mental note that you will not be able to submit the gift baskets and flowers on your expense account as they are not part of your approved expenses.

3:45 - The alarm on your iPhone goes off, just as you are rounding the corner to pick up your daughter.  Yes, you are early, but you savor the moment, listen to the last 10 minutes of your podcast, and think about the weekend. 

Deja Vu All Over Again

Am I the only one who remembers the 70s and 80s?  

With the latest results from the FH, I am more and more convinced that maybe myself and a handful of other people are the only ones who do.  Right now according to the FH and some of the reporting from some very fine (sincerely) and respected writers in the industry it would be easy to keep sipping the Kool Aid and assume that everything is fine.

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info web

Sometimes it is easy to go for and accept the simple answer without really looking in depth at what is hiding just below the surface.  So allow me to yank this particular band aid off.

To quote that other great commentator on the watch industry, Lily Tomlin -

Things are going to get a lot worse before they get worse

FACT 1 - Exports do not equal sell through.
Anecdotal evidence from several sources that I tend to put a lot of faith in report that the sell-through in Hong Kong has plunged in some stores by 80% over the past 8 weeks. Now the easy argument would be that this is the reason for the downturn in exports. But if you look at the graph from the FH over the past YEAR, you will note that the export numbers have consistently been trending DEEP SOUTH. That's right pals and gals, long before the protests started in Hong Kong. Now recent events have firmly planted the accelerator to the floor. So sorry great watch authority from Outlet X, you're not looking at the whole picture.

This is real boys and girls, and it will have a massive impact on future shipments over the next 6 to 12 months.
FACT 2 - The fewer watches you manufacture, the fewer you can sell (whether through authorized outlets or our old friend the grey market).
Based on the Swiss Federal Institute of Statistics and the Swiss Watch Federation the Swiss Watch Industry exported in 2014 28,582,190 MILLION watches. Now add to this quantity what was sold in the Swiss domestic market (which is estimated to 1.4 Million) and we're at around 30 million. 

Now for the Pepsi Challenge -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info web

Let's compare this to the current reporting of the Swiss Watch Federation. We are projecting to be slightly over 1/3 less in terms of manufacturing. 
Now, before you assemble a care package for your favorite CEO who treats you to that tasting menu each year during your visit... oh wait, that's right! You are NEVER going to be feted at one of these press carnivals.  Sorry...

At any rate, the CEO is covered, it's cheaper for the brand to keep paying him or her to do nothing. The sales manager and heads of pr and marketing will not have to start driving used cars or shopping at the Salvation Army. But let's talk about the people actually making those watches in (most typically) assembly houses, and some who work for the big brands. Believe me, those folks will get the axe long before brand x cancels their America's Cup partnership, their Wine Country press junket, or their brand ambassador from the Marvel Universe. You might not hear too much about these people in terms of the Swiss employment statistics. Why? Well also curious to relate, a lot of the people who assemble your watch in Switzerland are not, by actual definition, Swiss. Italian and French citizens cross the borders every day to work for Swiss companies making Swiss watches. It's not to say that they don't count, but in terms of Swiss employment figures, let's just say it tends to skew the graph plot.

As one Swiss insider stated, "the tissue is melting away!" But according to the Swiss Watch Federation, and the reporting of some tail waggers out there, things are even better now than ever before because, wait for it, the export value is increasing! 

Now I am 51 years old, and in fairness, I was not exactly engaged in the watch business at 11 years of age. But I do make a point of trying to understand the past and how it has influenced where we are now, and I also try to pay attention to where we're heading.

FACT 3 - And the one reality that should have the management at the SWATCH group up late nights and shitting themselves? Low priced Swiss watches where the big volumes are in production and (it stands to reason) sales are dramatically dropping again. While Hublot Big Bangs and Vacheron Constantin Overseas are sexy, they are not exactly owned and worn by the masses. And the Swiss watch industry is, well, industrial - meaning it involves thousands of people with thousands of jobs making (ideally) millions of watches. But just like 40 years ago there have been, and continue to be, warning signs that are being ignored.

Think about this basically, we‘re talking about millions of pieces that are not manufactured and assembled anymore. This inevitably leads to thousands of jobs lost already and thousands more that will be lost in the near future.
The shit's about to get even realer.

The Forecast Calls for Pain...

As that other great commentator on the watch industry, Alfred Tennyson might have mused -

In the Spring a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of... pain.

Courtesy of the FH

Now apologies for the fuzzy condition of the image, but in fairness, the statements from the FH regarding the purported growing strength of the Swiss watch industry are somewhat fuzzy in their logic when viewing their own graph.

Let's make this pretty simple.  As the graph above shows, export numbers have been slowly, but steadily dropping off since August.  Now taken in context of previous years?  Yes, things are somewhat better.  But while I think that this is a "glass is half-full" point of view, it doesn't necessarily mean that there is no water in the glass at all.  But it does mean that the water is rapidly evaporating.

In speaking with a friend how knows about these things, he has informed me that the HR scalpels are out, and as the fat has already been trimmed, the next step is happening - assembling companies are starting to cut hours.  More than that, several other assemblers are simply letting staff go.  And that's the part that should be most concerning.  You don't hear about people like assemblers getting let go.  Let's face facts, they are not brand employees.  Owing to this, the leaders of these big groups, and even the smaller brands can claim that all is well!  But it isn't.  This is yet another canary in the coalmine.  

In reflecting back on the incredible shrinking fair that is BaselWorld, and whether their over-inflated egos can admit it, SIHH as well, let's be very honest - this is a symptom of a larger problem.  The fairs, the number of attending brands, retailers and enthusiasts are merely a reflection of the overall health of the industry.  And right now?  The industry is still paying the price of playing with Confederate money for so many years.

 

 

 

Here's To The Crazy Ones...

One of the great privileges of writing about the watch industry is you get to meet some genuinely nice and interesting people who are working to create a brand, maintain one, or in some cases?  Bring it back from the dead. 

These are folks that have never sought out the spotlight.  They come in early, they stay late.  They answer the phone when a call comes in.  These are the people you don't read about, you don't see them on the red carpet.  But they are there.

These are also the people that, had they been dealt a better hand at the big poker game?  Or (if we are honest) had a more mercenary approach?  They'd be running "big boy" brands, rolling in cash and swimming in champagne.  

These are also guys and gals that tend to do whatever it takes to ensure that even in bad times, employees will be taken care of.  But these are also the folks that when they put down their chips and place their bets?  They tend to do it with their own money first.

I have a great, great deal of admiration and respect for these brand owners.  It is no small feat to be a mid-level director or employee for a watch brand.  I do not make light of that.  But to gain that experience, then to find a struggling brand, put your money on the table to buy it, and make a go of not just running it, but saving it from certain extinction?  That's some pretty salty stuff!

I realize that these are not the people you will be seeing at the GPHG, they will not be featured by the "elite" watch journalists because, well, it's not like they are going to spend any REAL advertising money, are they?

And that is why it really sucks when despite all of the effort, the reality of the business steps in.  Even with their best efforts, new investors coming in, a LOT of enthusiastic customers and potential customers out there, they just can't make a go of it.

With the big boy brands and the big boy egos involved in this business, I talk a lot about the "Transfer Window".  This is mostly due to the way that the industry has hyped up the image of being the CEO of a watch brand to similar levels of being a professional football player.  Seriously - have you ever seen a consumer magazine for toothpaste?  We all use toothpaste (hopefully) but it doesn't tend to lend itself to the passion and fan worship that exists out there for the leaders of the watch industry.  

But there is a parallel watch industry reality.  One where brand owners and CEOs are not worried about finding a new car partner so that they can have a sexier company car, or making enough in bonus to finally pay off their third home in the south of France.  This parallel watch world is filled with normal people, leading normal lives.  People working hard trying to make a dream come true without the benefit of multi-million dollar investment funds.  People pursuing what in then end turns out to be an unfulfilled dream.

But I hope that some of these dreamers that have been "transferred out" will dust themselves off and get back in the game.  This is a business that can lead to some extremely cynical behavior on every side of the BaselWorld booth.  Trust is hard to come by, and motives are frequently questioned and doubted.  The industry needs some more dreamers, and a few less egos. 

I'd like to leave you this morning with a quote from Steve Jobs that is often re-shared by my friend Rod Hess:

Here's to the crazy ones, the misfits, the rebels, the troublemakers, the round pegs in the square holes... the ones who see things differently -- they're not fond of rules... You can quote them, disagree with them, glorify or vilify them, but the only thing you can't do is ignore them because they change things... they push the human race forward, and while some may see them as the crazy ones, we see genius, because the ones who are crazy enough to think that they can change the world, are the ones who do.

Steve Jobs

 

Numbers Don't Lie... But Sometimes They Fib

May is now in the books, and it does appear that there might be a bit of a recovery in the works -

Courtesy of FH

As you will note, that pesky little blue line is inching upwards again, welcome news for one and all.  

More interesting to relate are the results from some specific markets:

Hong Kong is now up +18.1%

Italy is up 26.7%

and  China?   34.4%

Sounds really good, right?

Well, sorry to bring ants to a picnic, but there is more behind these numbers than I suspect the happy-shiny press releases are going to address.

Interesting to relate, watch brands are not heralding sales increases of the magnitude we are seeing from these numbers.  And the US?  Still in the red at -1.1%, with Japan still down at -3.2%.  BaselWorld and SIHH were stinkers both in terms of attendance and sales.

So this then brings up the next (let's be honest) obvious question - is something amazing going on in China, Hong Kong... and Italy?

I don't think so.  But there is a looming reality that could be spurring the export numbers to higher levels - the upcoming enforcement of "Swissness".  Because what this really means is that the vast number of watches already dressed-up with nowhere to go in the various Swiss warehouses?  They have to be out of the country, and soon.  Let's keep in mind that just because a watch has been exported, does not mean that it has, actually, been sold.  China and Hong Kong represent "safe harbors" where a big enough brand could shift the stock over to a subsidiary to either dump into the grey market, or to hang onto and strip for what they can get.  Italy while not in the same dire economic straights as, say, Greece or Spain still seems a bit unlikely to be a driver for as much watch "appetite" as these numbers would indicate.  One thing in Italy's favor?  Proximity, just across the border  ; )

So what does this all really mean?  Theories are just that, but mine is this:

We will, most likely, be seeing a very large number of grey market watches hitting the market very soon.  In other words?  Even more than now.  Some very large brands are currently investigating ways to sell their surplus watches via Amazon and other outlets.  And although several brands have cut production and are slowing down their output, there is still a mountain of unsold product which needs to be dealt with - and by the end of this year.

For the watch consumer?  It's going to be a great time to buy!

A Return to Common Sense

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

This is the new Patrimony, referred to by Vacheron Constantin as the Patrimony small model.  And I can only speak for myself, but I think that this might be the first sign from one of the big dogs that they get, understand, and are adapting to the realities of the situation they are in.

The case is of pink gold and measures a sane, rational and practical 36 mm in diameter and 8.1 mm thick.  

The dial is silvered opaline and the indices are also of pink gold.

The movement is Caliber 2450 Q6.  It is self-winding and offers 40 hours of power reserve.   Hours, minutes, seconds and date at 6 o'clock.

You want this watch - and you should!  36 mm is a realistic diameter for a dress watch.  It is suitable for both men and women, and frankly?  You don't need tons SKUs, you just need one or two god ones!

Well done Vacheron - let's hope this is a sign of more sane things to come.

Here are the pertinents -

Patrimony small model

References
4100U/000R-B180: brown leather strap 4100U/001R-B180: purple shiny leather strap Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

Caliber
2450 Q6
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin 

Mechanical, self-winding
26.2 mm (11’’’1⁄4) diameter, 3.6 mm thick 

Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
196 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes Central seconds 

Date 

 

Case

18K 5N pink gold
36 mm diameter, 8.1 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 
meters) 

Dial

Silvered opaline
Convex external zone with circular “pearl” minute-track 
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers 

Strap

Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with 
alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, 
large square scales
Purple Mississippiensis alligator shiny leather with alsavel 
inner shell, stitched-tip, square scales

Buckle

18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

 

 

A Week of Well Wound Watches

This past week (technically going on 2) I  have had the opportunity to test out JUVO Luxury's 3 watch winder here at Tempus Fugit HQ.  

Winders are a funny thing.  Most watch guys (and gals) out there when asked will say that they, in fact, they do not own a winder for their automatic watches.  Many more will say that they don't want or need one because they simply grab a watch, set and hand-wind it and go from there.  And in a perfect world that would sure make sense. 

But the reality is that many of us have watches that have complications that are, well, a pain in the ass to re-set if we don't keep the watch wound (either by wearing them regularly so that they self-wind, or by using a watch winder) and owing to this, we invariably don't wear them as often as we might (i.e. once in a blue moon), and they end up taking up space in desk drawers gathering dust and not being enjoyed.

And to some extent that is where I found myself.  I have a few moonphase watches, and it has been an ongoing struggle to keep them hand-wound between regular wearing.  Needless to say, I am now a firm believer in the value and benefit of a watch winder.

 
Okay, visually, the JUVO winder is an incredibly beautiful item.  Its smooth, clean lines house (in this case) 3 watch winder ports.  Each of these can be independently programmed and can accommodate several different settings (more on that shortly).  The winding action is unbelievably quiet, and more than once I have been somewhat startled by just how quiet the winding action is.

What seems abundantly clear is that JUVO sought to address BOTH sides of the winder debate, which for many watch fans was not entirely dissimilar to the old Lite Beer from Miller ads of the seventies and eighties -




Essentially you typically felt that you had a choice to make:

A quality winder that works well but looks like something you'd rather hide in the closet.
or 
A good looking tabletop chachki that might (and then again, might not) wind your watch.

The folks at JUVO decided that there was really no reason you couldn't have both. 

The winder itself is incredibly easy to use.  Plug it in, mount your watches on the pillows, place the pillows in the winder ports.  

Then select the direction you want the watch to rotate (clockwise, counter-clockwise, or bi-directional)  -

Then select the number of rotations you wish per day with the TPD (turns per day) switch -

These switches are clearly marked and easy to get at at the back of the winder -

And that's it!

In terms of performance, the winder has performed flawlessly and my two moon phase chronographs remained wound and spot on time in between wearings these past few weeks.

So it is fair to say that the beauty of the JUVO winder is more than skin deep.  But having said that, it is a very good looking item in its own right!

And it has one added touch that I really, REALLY love -

And that would be that the individual winders have a lighting system that can be switched on offering three different levels of illumination.  And you don't need to reach around to the back to activate this feature, you simply tap the lock at the lower bottom left hand side of the glass door!

And this makes perfect sense, because we are into watches not just for the technical aspects, but for the aesthetics.  We like the way they look!  And doesn't it make sense to create a winder that allows you to look at and appreciate your collection?  JUVO Luxury thought so, and I'd have to say that I agree!

So I can honestly and wholeheartedly recommend the JUVO  M3 winder.  It is a well-made, elegant solution to the challenge of keeping your automatic watches wound and ready.  And not only that, it affords you the opportunity to enjoy and appreciate your collection without having to dig through your watch box!

Winter Is Coming and the Curse of Baskin-Robbins

The news finally broke to the public that things at Richemont are, indeed, bad.

It was reported in several outlets, but the bottom line is that Richemont announced that, in fact, Winter is indeed coming.

Now what many people have seen coming for quite some time is what these same people were avoiding talking about.  The word around the campfire back at the turn of the year was that Piaget and Vacheron were both sucking wind.  And Piaget's response to that was to damn the torpedoes and push forward with an unfortunately underwhelming reload of the Polo.  The launch event no doubt cost a pretty penny, it was poorly executed and the biggest buzz that came out of it was not about the watch, or the celebrity "Game Changers", but rather the stifling heat, the delayed start, and what many writers referred to as privation and fear of dehydration.

Vacheron, a beautiful and wonderful brand is struggling as well, and so according to the folks at the  Unia trade union those are the two brands that are going to be wearing the prom dress.  

But in fact, if we are honest with ourselves, the problems at Richemont are a lot deeper than anyone is willing to talk about.  And they go far beyond the need to cut bait with some investment properties in Paris.  In the spirit of that other great "eye poker" Gregory Pons, here is a reality check supplied with some suggestions.

Now I want to be clear that several of these observations and suggestions were mined over lengthy conversations with my fellow road-dogs in the industry.  So these are not merely fanboy, media postulations.  I have actually sat on the other side of the table at BaselWorld, made forecasts and dealt with strong arm tactics from idiot sons with Napoleon complexes as the biggest watch retailers in LA.  I've been to the city and I've seen the rodeo.  And when I talk with my fellow watch dogs, it is not as the press.  So here's a cold cup of coffee.

Or in the case of Panerai, espresso.
Panerai should have sales like Rolex.  There, I've said it.  Panerai could sell a hell of a lot more watches.  But Panerai has tragically forgotten who or what Panerai is.  Panerai is not tourbillons.  Panerai is not 19 in house hand-wound movements and 13 self-winding movements.  And those are just the in house ones?!?  Back when dinosaurs roamed the earth, that would be 2003, I spent some time selling watches at Tourneau.  And as history will bear out, Panerai did not have 31 different references.  Baskin-Robbins, on their best day couldn't muster all 31 flavors!  Panerai had two versions, and your options were limited to that, maybe a hand wound, maybe an automatic.  Finding a Panerai in the wild was exciting, and finding one in an actual watch store was a bit like the "little red haired girl" saying yes to a date with Charlie Brown.  Panerai was, in the words of my recently adopted hometown - "wicked hot"!

What happened?  Ego, greed and bad decisions.

So Panerai, here are my suggestions:
1.  You need 31 references like Baskin-Robbins needs 32 flavors.
2.  Scarcity fuels desire, desire fuels purchase
3.  Cut back on the regattas - I've spent time in yacht clubs and I grew up as the "hired help" in a country club.  Interesting factoid - some of the cheapest people you will ever meet.  They are not your customers.
4.  Cull the herd.  Sorry, sounds harsh, but you have boutiques that have 5 different models.  Think about that - you have a Panerai boutique and it has fewer watches than regular retail stores?!?  You need a boutique in Florence, maybe in Zurich, Tokyo and NYC.  The rest of it? That is, believe it or not, what your retail partners are for.
5.  Take a step back and remember what it was that made you so "wicked hot" 

And I am available (as are my colleagues) if you need some unbiased, straight talk ; )

Watch Marketing as Proposed by Napoleon Bonaparte

Men are more easily governed through their vices than their virtues 

The halls of BaselWorld are littered with swag bags erupting with every type of nicety from silk ties and scarves, to iPad minis, to wireless headphones.  The all expense paid trip to Geneva, to Glashutte, to the Napa Valley, to Sag Harbor.  So when a brand PR office says they don't have money for advertising, well that's bullshit.  Because they clearly have money for trinkets, travel, steaks and wine.

And when certain blogs, influencers and writers claim that they "painstakingly curate" their content, well, that is also bullshit.  Because they know that the brands have the money to pay the backhanders requested (and oftentimes required) in order to ensure that their new watch, partnership or campaign will receive coverage, and that they will pay it.  It is a lovely example of co-dependency.

Men are moved by two levers only:  fear and self interest

Now I've said it before, and I'll say it again - I like free sparkly things, I like comped travel to exotic, exciting locations.  And I would love to be included in these little vacations disguised as press junkets.  But as with any game, you are expected to play by certain rules.  So that is one way to move the press - self interest.

But let's talk about fear.  It goes without saying, the people who hold the strings to the advertising funds, or more crucially grant and withhold access to the brand can, and often do, use their position as both a spur and a bridle.  It is the perfect way to ensure that you get what you want, and to stifle any contrary voice out there not in line with your program.

This, of course, is not how a free press is meant to work.  And although it might be standard operating procedure in fashion, etc., I would again point to the automotive press.  It can be particularly brutal in its honesty.  Yet the level of passion that auto enthusiasts have for cars and car brands completely eclipses that of the watch enthusiasts.  And the auto enthusiasts count on the auto press to offer honest, unvarnished feedback.  So what is the luxury industry so afraid of?

It doesn't need to continue to be this way.  Particularly with the currently wretched state of affairs in the watch industry, maybe things can change.  So let me turn to the former Emperor for a final idea -

The people to fear are not those who disagree with you, but those who disagree with you and are too cowardly to let you know.

What I constantly hear is that I say the things that other people are thinking and wish that they could say, but can't for fear of professional damage.  

So a modest suggestion to you pr and brand managers out there - rather than dumping tens of thousands of dollars to continually feed the barking seals around you to ensure that you  hear what you want, maybe listen to some honest, albeit uncomfortable feedback.  

The Importance of Knowing when a Gag has Outlived its Humor

My father used to have a saying - if you don't want someone to get your goat, don't leave it in the front yard.

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.

This is the latest salvo from H. Moser & Cie.

You might recall that they started with a clever campaign extolling the virtues of the mechanical watch vs. the smart a few months back.  It was a cute jab at Apple and the Apple watch.  While the first Youtube video campaign was clever, if I'm honest, with this latest offering I think the "strategy think tank" at Moser has run off the rails a bit.

With a case intentionally designed to match the Apple watch and an "apple green" underbelly for the strap, this is about as subtle, clever and cunning as a baseball bat to the forehead.  Moreover, I have to be honest that it is at this point a little sad.

To craft, create and now market a watch with (seemingly) the sole goal of trying to stick your thumb in the eye of a company that can buy yours about 100 times over is not Quixotic.  It is not David and Goliath.  It is wasteful, a bit vainglorious.

Here's the thing - the strategy that H. Moser & Cie. had been following was a good one.  Beautiful, hand made watches that are not about a label or a logo like Patek, Rolex or Vacheron.  And by all accounts they were gaining respect and (positive) notoriety.

When you invest so much time and money talking about someone else, you end up doing a lot of unpaid PR work on their behalf.  In fairness, for all I know this watch is going to sell like hotcakes.  But my gut is telling me that it is a somewhat expensive practical joke played on Apple that Apple probably finds flattering ; )

Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955

From Vacheron Constantin -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

This is a BEAUTIFUL chronograph!  This is a new release from the folks at Vacheron, the Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955.

The name "Cornes De Vache" is apparently attributable to the shape of the lugs.  These are per a few Google translations - "cow horns".

The case is of platinum and measures (in my feeling) a much more respectable 38.5 mm in diameter.  The case back features a sapphire crystal display, all the better to view and appreciate the manually-wound Calibre 1142.  

The column-wheel chronograph provides a 30 minute counter at 3 o'clock.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Hours, minutes, seconds (at 9 o'clock) and a column-wheel chronograph (30 minute counter).

Here are the full details, straight from Vacheron -

TECHNICAL DATA

Historiques Cornes de vache 1955

Reference 
5000H/000P-B058

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece 

Calibre

1142
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 5.6 mm thick Approximately 48 hours of power reserve 3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
164 components
21 jewels

Indications 

Hours, minutes
Small seconds at 9 o'clock
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter)

Case

Platinum 950
38.5 mm diameter, 10.9 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback

Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters) 

Dial 

Silvered opaline center with sun-brushed external zone (minute- track and tachometer scale)
18K white gold applied hour-markers

Strap 

Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle 

Platinum 950 buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped 

Chronofighter 1695 from Graham

Courtesy of Graham

This is something new from Graham - their Chronofighter 1695.  Evocative of the 1930s, this is a self-winding chronograph, mono pusher with a single register.   All housed in a beautiful 42 mm pink gold case.

Courtesy of Graham

Here are the details straight from Graham -


Functions Chronograph (seconds, 30 minutes counters). Date at 3 o'clock Hours, minutes

Calibre Calibre G1745, automatic chronograph, 28'800 A/h (4Hz), Incabloc shock absorber 25 jewels

Power reserve : 48 hours

Case 42 mm pink gold (18K) case


Left hand fast-action start/stop trigger and reset pusher

Pink gold (18K) bezel


Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both faces

Pink gold (18K) case back with Greenwich Observatory hand-engraved and sapphire aperture on the balance wheel

Water 160feet/50m/5bar resistance 

Dial Domed silver-white dial and snailed minutes counter Golden hands, curved chrono hand

Strap Brown crocodile


Pink gold (18K) pin buckle 


www.graham-london.com   

Labor Day Beach Day Contiuned...

Courtesy of Baume et Mercier

So, as many of you can now see, I have gone back to a simpler lay out.  More on that in future posts.

Now, this is today's Baume et Mercier Labor Day / Beach Day installment.  This is another image from Baume et Mercier's archive of historical pieces.  You can see the DNA here for future models quite clearly.

I trust everyone has had an enjoyable Saturday!

Guillermin Mollet - Part Deux

It is inevitable that sooner or later, you are going to have a watch that not only catches the eye, but starts conversations with complete strangers.  That in fact is what happened this past week here in Santa Barbara as I was wearing my Guillermin Mollet so I thought it might be time to (in the words of Henry Rollins) re-heat it!

Photo courtesy of Guillermin Mollet

I have to say that if I could have had any of them, this would have been my first pick!  The two-tone dial, and the alternating use of numbers and indices is really well-presented.

However, I do love and cherish my own -

There are still a few of these out there for those of you who are interested.  Solid gold, powered by self-winding swiss movement, and beautifully packaged.  But the watch case itself is the thing - beautiful and unique!