News reached the North Shore HQ of Henki Time earlier this AM that Schwarz Etienne not only had a swanky new (used) HQ, but also had appointed a new Managing Director - Florian Brossard. While I am not familiar with Mr. Brossard myself, I fired up the "Google Machine" and discovered that he had worked at Montblanc back in the earlier part of this century, but am not sure what he has been up to lately. I would assume that after a year without Mauro Ergemini at the helm (at least if his LinkedIn is to be believed) Mr. Brossard will fill that gap. I have met Mr. Egermini in BaselWorld at the "new and improved" Schwarz Etienne launch (back when Hall 2 was still a thing). Mr. Egermini was also involved in the white label program which seemed to have traveled under a few different flags - e2o innovations, TMH (Tradition Mécanique Horlogère), and La Division du Temps.
Now swimming somewhere in all of this holding company soup is Ming (the less said about their approach to after sales customer service, the better) which is where Mr. Egermini now finds himself as the head of their Swiss operations.
For those of you old enough to remember, it's not unlike the 70s American sitcom - SOAP.
Now back to the new facility. I have actually walked past it twice on my way to visit Graham's former shared facilities (Le Joux Perret & Arnold & Sons). A little travel tip from your old pal Henki - it is also next to a fairly large home improvement center, department store and a hypermarket that does sell quite tasty ready to eat hot sandwiches. If it is the same building that I think it is, I applaud the money folks at Schwarz Etienne for rehabbing the building. On a personal note, and it might just have been my impression walking past it on a rainy October afternoon, it looked very out of place amongst the suburban sprawl, so maybe this second life will be a positive thing.
At any rate, we wish Mr. Brossard bon chance in his new role.
The case measures 47 mm in diameter, and per Graham is of Epoxy resin with
orange dye and metallized carbon fibers.
Per Graham's website, the movement is as follows:
Courtesy of Graham
G1790, automatic skeleton chronograph with view of the balance wheel
and escapement. Black & rhodium movement with hand-drawn strokes decoration. Openwork balance bridges and plates. Oscillating weight with hand-drawn strokes decoration and snailed external segment
28’800 A/h (4Hz)
Incabloc shock absorber
29 jewels
Power reserve: 48 hours
This is not a "hot drop" in the traditional sense. It is not new, it has been around for awhile. But the interesting thing for 3 lucky collectors out there, is that there are still a few available!
Courtesy of Graham
Known as "Honest George Graham" by fellow watch makers, George Graham was an unlikely hero in the quest for longitude, or more specifically the ability to determine true longitude at sea. John Harrison was provided an introduction to Mr. Graham, who in turn became an advisor to him. Honest George provided Mr. Harrison with interest free loan to begin work on his marine chronometers, and introduced I'm to the Board of Longitude.
Courtesy of Graham
When taking George Graham's horological exploits into account, there really couldn't be a more fitting tribute than the GEO. GRAHAM Tourbillon Orrery. A modern tribute to George Graham's original Orrery - a clock-bound mechanical solar system that was presented to the 4th Earl of Orrery, Charles Boyle in 1713.
Courtesy of Graham
Per Graham -
The Orrery's display includes the Moon, Earth, Mars, and the Sun based on a 300-year calendar. The Sun is represented by a pink gold (18K) hand-engraved Tourbillon bridge with 2 Phoenix heads which celebrate the decoration used by George Graham. The year counter on the case back enables correction for the planets (Moon: 7 years, Earth: 1156 years, Mars: 25 years).
The case is of gold, and measures 48mm x 17.60mm. The movement is noted as caliber G1800. It is manual winding with a 72 hour power reserve. It was created in cooperation with Christophe Claret.
The case is of stainless steel and measures 44 mm in diameter. It is water resistant to 330 feet / 100 m. The movement is listed as the G1747, automatic chronograph 28’800 A/h (4Hz). It boasts a power reserve of 48 hours, and the movement is Chronofiable® certified.
This is the latest (and in my opinion, greatest) iteration of Graham's Fortress collection!
Courtesy of Graham
The Fortress GMT is an ingenious solution to an occasionally frustrating problem, adjusting the second time zone on your GMT watch.
Courtesy of Graham
The typical mechanical GMT watch operates with a "position" adjustment from the crown, meaning you have to first remove the watch, unscrew the crown, do the math (usually not too complicated, but still an opportunity for a miscalculation), screw the crown back down, and hopefully have the correct time for the correct time zone. I don't mean to be overly dramatic, but I have encountered more than one colleague from the Fourth and Fifth Estates who have been off by an hour (or two) and missed appointments, etc., owing to an incorrectly set GMT hand.
Courtesy of Graham
Enter the Graham Fortress GMT! You will notice a small button at the tip of the crown. This button engages the GMT hand with a push. Arrived in a new timezone and need to set the second time zone? Not a problem. Simply press the GMT button on the crown to advance the hour hand by one hour.
It's available in black, blue, green and a rather saucy two-tone blue and brown dial (which is limited to 100 pieces). Fairly priced at$5,750.00 and available direct from Graham on their online store - https://graham1695.com/collections/all
Here are the pertinents -
Functions:
Chronograph (seconds, 30 minutes counter) Large date at 9 o’clock Hours, minutes, seconds
Calibre:
G1750, automatic chronograph – monopusher movement 28’800 A/h (4Hz) Incabloc shock absorber 25 jewels Power reserve: 48 hours
Movement certification Chronofiable® (improved shock absoprtion)
Case:
47mm steel Monopusher start / stop / reset and crown on the left side of the case Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the underside See through sapphire crystal case back with limited edition serial number
Water resistance:
330 feet / 100 m / 10 bar
Dial:
Black, green, or blue dial with 2 patterns (the top of the dial is grained while the bottom is ridged), Arabic numerals featuring hand-applied with beige or white luminescent treatment (Super-LumiNova Grade A), hour & minute hands featuring white or beige luminescent treatment (Super-LumiNova grade A)Super-LumiNova numerals (font inspired by vintage aircrafts)
Blue & brown varnish dial, Arabic numerals featuring hand-applied white luminescent treatment (Super-LumiNova Grade A), hour & minute hands featuring white luminescent treatment (Super-LumiNova grade A)
Rhodium hours hands with white Super-LumiNova coating Rhodium chrono, minutes and seconds counters hands
These two limited editions are the latest entries to the Chronofighter "Squadron", helping Graham celebrate the twentieth anniversary of the Chronofighter.
First up is the Chronofighter Vintage - DLC Red Limited Edition -
Case: 44 mm, Black DLC coating (matte) Black matte DLC fast-action start/stop trigger and reset pusher
Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both sides
See through sapphire crystal
Bezel: Black DLC bezel (matte)
Water resistance: 330 feet / 100 m / 10 bar
Dial:
Off-white dial featuring luminescent treatment (Super-LumiNova Grade X1) Black hands featuring white luminescent treatment (Super-LumiNova Grade X1) and black printing for numerals
This is the latest offering from the team in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The case is stainless steel, measuring 36 mm in diameter, with the bezel sports 72 rainbow-colored sapphires (0.95 cts, Ø 1.30).
Courtesy of Graham
Here are the pertinents -
Functions:
Quartz chronograph (seconds, minutes)
Moon phase Rattrapante Date at 6 o’clock Hours, minutes, seconds
Calibre: G1650, quartz chronograph, metal gold plating 3 jewels Power reserve: 4 1⁄2 year mercury-free battery.
EOL (end-of-life indication)
Case: 36 mm stainless steel case Left hand fast-action start/stop trigger set with a diamond in its end (Top Wesselton, 0.01 cts, VS, Ø 1.20) and reset pusher Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides Domed stainless steel case back with floral pattern engraved
Dial: White flinqué dial (sunray pattern), smooth minutes and seconds counters 4 quarter-hours set with diamonds (Top Wesselton, 0.04 carats, VS, Ø 1.30) Rhodiated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova Moon phase with lunation disc at 12 o'clock, coated with white Super- LumiNova
Strap: White calf strap with a simulated alligator-like texture Also available on a blue, green, or purple strap
CALIBRE G1790, automatic skeleton chronograph with view on the balance wheel and escapement, 28'800 A/h (4Hz), Incabloc shock absorber Black and rhodium movement with hand-drawn strokes decoration Openwork balance bridges and plates Oscillating weight with hand-drawn strokes decoration and snailed external segment 29 jewels Power reserve 48 hours
CASE 47mm superlight tinted case. Total weight of the watch is lighter than 100g Epoxy resin with red dye and metallised carbon fibers (bronze tinted metallization for more contrast). Anti-UV additive Black carbon patented fast-action start/stop trigger (3K carbon frame) Black rubber reset pusher with "Clous de Paris” high grip decoration Black carbon (3K) bezel Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both faces Smoked sapphire crystal case back with red “superlight carbon” inscription engraved
WATER RESISTANCE 330 feet / 100 m /10 bar
DIAL Black skeleton movement with white Super-LumiNova graduation hours and minutes hands Red chrono, minutes and seconds counters' hands
STRAP Integrated black rubber strap with "Clous de Paris" Black carbon (3K) pin buckle
This one must have snuck past me when it was released, but I stumbled across it recently and thought I might re-heat it.
The case is of bronze, and measures 44 mm in diameter. Underneath the hood is the Calibre G1747, automatic chronograph, which operates via Graham's now signature "Trigger" chronograph pusher.
Courtesy of Graham
Like several of Graham's current collection, this one can also be purchased directly from Graham through the shop on their official site -
I recently saw some of the newer Graham pieces "up close and personal".
Courtesy of Graham
And one of my favorites is the Graham Fortress.
As you can imagine, COVID and the cancellation of shows has made it challenging to see a watch up close and in person. But now having seen it "face to face", I have to say that the Graham Fortress is a bit special.
Courtesy of Graham
The case is of stainless steel, and measures 47 mm in diameter. The movement is Graham's G1750, which is an automatic monophush chronograph.
The Fortress is limited to 100 pieces. Although I saw one model on a brown/cognac strap, I believe that the "default" strap is black with beige stitching.
Priced at $7,750.00
Here are the pertinents -
Functions:
Chronograph (seconds, 30 minutes counter) Large date at 9 o’clock Hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 48 hours Movement certification Chronofiable® (improved shock absoprtion)
Case:
47 mm steel Monopusher start / stop / reset and crown on the left side of the case Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the underside See-through sapphire crystal case back with limited edition serial number
Bezel:
Steel satin-brushed
Water resistance:
330 feet / 100 m / 10 bar
Dial:
Black grained dial with beige Super-LumiNova numerals (font inspired by vintage aircrafts). Hand-applied numerals Circular sunbrushed counters Rhodium hours hands with beige Super-LumiNova coating
Rhodium chrono, minutes and seconds counters hands
Strap:
Hand-sewn black calf leather with beige stitches Steel pin buckle
If there were a Facebook section for father-son relationships, my status would read:
"It's Complicated..."
I made my debut in Zanesville, Ohio back in the summer of 1968. The day before I dropped, my grandfather presented my anxious soon-to-be father with this -
I had it for a good while, and then I passed it on to my niece who now has a son of her own.
While I don't regret passing it on, I would be less than forthright if I didn't admit to a pang of loss. And in truth, not for the object itself, but rather what that Mido represented. When I think about my relationship with my father, it is in many ways a play in three acts. The first act would be happiness, growing up in a small town. The second act would struggle as we tried (often unsuccessfully) to maintain a positive relationship after he remarried. The third would be acceptance, as we grew further apart in terms of geographic distance, but reconnected now and again and tried to focus on the positive memories that we shared.
In truth, this type of evolving relationship is not unique, we all go through it in our own way with our families and relationships. And to some extent, I always connected that first, "happy" period with his/then my/now my niece's Mido. I tried to recapture the feeling with other vintage Midos, but it was really never the same. It almost felt as if I was trying to channel my memories through someone else's horological talisman.
I recently found myself face to face with a relative of my father's Mido, and decided it was finally time to buy one for myself. I waffled back and forth for a minute, and finally made my move.
Now to be completely clear:
No. This new Mido did not make me more handsome, did not make me any smarter, food does not magically taste better, and I am not suddenly capable of tremendous feats of strength or daring-do.
But there is something that this new Mido did do, almost instantaneously - it hit me with a visceral sucker punch that I really wasn't expecting. I felt (and feel) a strange familiar calmness that takes me back to 1977 in that small Ohio town. My sisters and I are under the giant oak tree in the Pierce's side yard, we're playing jailbreak, and Dean Mason is "it", and he is the fastest runner any of us have ever seen so we have to be quick, sneaky, or simply cheat if we're not going to get tagged out ; ). And it finally gets so dark that we have to go inside, and my father is there in the living room, watching another hopelessly cursed Cleveland Indians team end the season in the same morass and ineptitude that have come to be a hallmark for the big city to the north. He comes up to my room to say goodnight. We talk about what we did that day - which really means that I tell him about my day, the ups and downs. And he smiles, gives me a hug and says "don't worry, things will look a lot brighter in the morning!" And with that he turns out the light in my room and heads to bed.
I thought it might be appropriate to wrap this up with a quote from that other great commentator on watches, the poet philosopher - Master Po from TV's Kung Fu:
Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb
Caine: Is it good to seek the past, Master Po? Does it not rob the present?
Master Po: If a man dwells on the past, then he robs the present. But if a man ignores the past, he may rob the future. The seeds of our destiny are nurtured by the roots of our past.
Okay, as you know Tempus Fugit accepts no advertising money (actually, maybe I should...) nor do I write "pay to play" advertorial, as the idea of doing that makes me feel dirty, and not in a good way. So I tend to tell you straight, and in this case as a previous customer of Shopworn, I feel secure in giving you this PSA.
Tempting though it is to buy dirt cheap from Grey Market superstores, I have come to realize that every time someone does that (the customer) they (that same customer) are doing themselves a disservice. Yes, they are getting their "watch du jour" at "Deep South" prices, but ultimately they are devaluing their own purchase before it even arrives and they can put it on their wrist!
So what's the big deal? Well, as you know, even though watches and pens are not perishable items like, say milk, they often do have a perceived finite life span. There are several (in fairness) good reasons for this. Each year, brands bring out new models. And while the blind hubris of the somewhat recent past where brands clearly over-produced and simply swept the excess under the Grey Market carpet, it began to dawn upon them (albeit more slowly than it should have) that this was hurting their brand not just in terms of perception, but ultimately in the bottom line. Brands, distributors and retailers were simply trying to cover their nut. But more often than not, that quick rush from an illicit Grey Market dump was as short-lived as a hit off the crack pipe.
What if... there was an outlet mall for watches?
The concept of the outlet mall has obviously been somewhat perverted from its original concept, which was selling the previous year's fashion at a discounted price at a company owned store. In other words, let's say Ralph Lauren had a fuchsia polo shirt that sold everywhere except the midwest. Ralph would "buy back" the stock and off it would go to the outlet mall stores. It was not a "second" or stained or damaged shirt, it just didn't sell well in Elyria, Ohio. A young guy or gal walks into the outlet store with their birthday money from Grandma and "boom" - it's as if they've found a Ralph Lauren original polo that was made just for them! Cue "Happy Ending" from that under appreciated Elvis Presley film "It Happened At The World's Fair" -
Okay, but let's get back to watches and pens. Apart from Movado, or Fossilthere really isn't such a thing as an outlet store. But what if there was a way to get a watch that had been with a retail store, but for whatever reason had not sold and was bought back by the brand, and you could buy it at a very agreeable price point? And you could know with confidence that the watch actually came from the actual brand and didn't drop off the back of a truck, or was part of a large scale product dump? And what if rather than give you a (let's be honest) less than honest claim of "new in box with its original, factory warranty!" (which will be worthless when you try to get after sales warranty service for it), you were told that not only was this watch authentic, but would be provided with a warranty by the retailer that you bought it from? And finally, what if that retailer could offer you the watch you wanted at a price you could afford, offer warranty service and be able to do all of this because they were working in directtransparent partnership with the brand itself? Now you're interested? Well you should be!
Now take me, I am not wealthy (remember, no advertising revenue or blood money for advertorial), I am a social worker by day. While I am wealthy when I consider the "warm and fuzzy" ledger in the account book, when I look in the "disposable income for watches, etc." ledger... let's just say that I am not what would be considered a prime demographic for many brands ; )
But that doesn't mean that I don't buy watches, I just have to be careful with how much I spend, and I tend to only buy things I really want to wear myself -
Courtesy of Graham
I don't love everything that Graham does. Not a fan of pin-up girls on my watch dial. Having said that, this one I LOVE! It is the Chronofighter Vintage Chronograph, and if there is any justice in the universe, it will still be available when I have concluded some potentially awkward conversations with my piggy-bank ; )
Courtesy of Graham
Now even if this one is not for you (and no offense, but as I want it for myself I hope that it isn't), there is a good selection of watches and pens to choose from. And you can purchase with confidence that it is the real deal.
I can say this as the proud owner of a Montegrappa pen that I purchased from Shopworn. Absolutely as advertised, and affordable for this full-time social worker/sometimes brand consultant and horological raconteur -
Power reserve: 48 hours MovementcertificationChronofiable® (improvedshockabsorption)
Case:
47mm steel Steel patented fast-action start/stop trigger and reset pusher Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating See-through sapphire crystal case back with limited edition number engraved
Bezel:
Steel satin-brushed
Water resistance:
330 feet / 100 m / 10 bar
Dial:
Cow’s horn dial. Openwork steel with black PVD plate (0.1mm thick) engraved with the Swiss Poya (cow herd’s climb to the mountain pastures)
Minute scale with Alpine flowers as edelweiss, Swiss flag and white Super-LumiNova (C1 Grade A) spots marking the indexes Rhodium skeleton hands with white Super-LumiNova tip and white chrono hand
Strap:
Brown and white cowhide leather strap Delivered with a black calf leather strap Steel pin buckle
Peter Speake-Marin was kind enough to share some time with me this past week - and now - A Few Minutes with Peter Speake-Marin
James Henderson - What was your first watch – is there a the story behind it?
Peter
Speake-Marin - My first watch was a “Steve Austin Bionic Man” watch,
back in the seventies with an led push button display.I can’t say this fired my desire to become a watchmaker but it will always hold a place in my heart.If
I remember correctly, my Uncle bought a small quantity of them from a
dubious source and then proceeded to given them away to the children in
the area. The first ‘real’ watch I owned was a Longines military watch
from 1948 that I acquired in London, when I was working in the
Piccadilly arcade.I
then (probably very wrongly) opened the case back up to view the
movement, and redesigned the dial in a slightly more gothic fashion. I
wore that watch religiously for around 5 years before giving it to a
friend who had always coveted it.He continues to wear it today. He now lives and works for Apple in California.
JH - Where were you born?
PSM - St Margarets hospital, Epping, Essex in 1968
JH - When you were a boy, what did you "want to be when you grew up?”
PSM - Initially as a child, perhaps a bus driver like my father.Following that I never had a clear view except that it had to be what I perceived to be practical and creative.As an adolescent I had aspirations of going into architectural engineering.
JH - It seems fair to say that perhaps you were an "accidental watch maker"? Your first interest was jewelry, yes?
PSM - I left school half way through my A levels and initially tried for the engineering division of the RAF.I was under-qualified for this, and began searching for something else, which I thought would suit my skill set.Jewelry
seemed to fit, however the lack of a foundation degree in art meant I
was immediately rejected from this avenue. A careers teacher in Loughton
Essex dug up an old prospectus on Horology (a word that at 17 years of
age I had no understanding of).After
my first visit to the school in Hackney I started the course 2 weeks
after it had begun. At 17 I found something that I was good at and held
the promise of travel. My Brother and Father had traveled extensively
and I had always wanted to do the same. I was told that watchmaking
meant that I could find work in any city in the world.
JH - Are you more artistic, or more mechanical?
PSM
- Both sides of my brain are fairly balanced which is a strength and
enables me to advance projects very quickly, designing things which both
are beautiful and work and can be made.
Courtesy of Speake-Marin
J H - There is a real history of notably famous English watchmakers - Graham, Harrison, and others.Do you see yourself ever returning to the UK to set-up shop there?
PSM
- Some times I play with the idea but it is already very complex
producing the components I design in Switzerland, where I currently live
and work. Switzerland is highly specialized in this domain. To make
these types of components in the UK would be difficult. Returning to the
UK to live for periods of time is a strong possibility, to set up a
company making the type of watches I make today virtually impossible.
Courtesy of Speake-Marin
JH - Who else is making watches that interest you?
PSM - Nobody specifically but I am drawn to the independent world more
than the larger companies because these guys feel far more authentic to
me in their motivation.
JH - If you weren't doing this, what would you be doing?
PSM - Probably driving a bus.
JH - Living and working in Switzerland - did you have any
challenges/difficulties adapting culturally? How about with the
language?
PSM - Language was the toughest element, I am not a natural linguist and
although I work like a dog I am lazy at those things which I need but
don’t really appreciate, French is one of them.
JH
- I have to say, I love the Marin-1 with your SM2 self-winding
movement. How long did it take for you to develop this new caliber?
PSM - From original drawings through to delivering the first watches approx 3 years
JH - Any future SM calibers in the future?
PSM - There are already a number in development but all based in some way on the SM2
Courtesy of Speake-Marin
JH - You seem to spend a lot of time "on the road" meeting your customers and fans - has it always been this way?
PSM
- I spend less time than people perceive traveling, but when I do
travel I try to make as much noise as possible since this is my way of
reminding people that I am there and about my work. Like many
independents I spend my cash on the watches and not marketing.As
a result the traveling becomes my marketing and as I meet my clients
and visit different countries I share the experience on the Internet. It
has not always been this way but will increase over the next 2 years as
my business grows until a point comes when I can be more conventional
in marketing my work. This does allow me to live a childhood dream of
travel.In September I leave for a world tour which will be for at least a month.
JH - You are one of the "Friends" in the MB&F "Friends" - what is that like?
PSM - Max has been a friend for many years and I am happy to have been
able to help him start his business as he helped me and many other
independents when he was with Harry Winston.
JH
- It seems that you might have come into watchmaking at just about the
right time with the renaissance of mechanical time pieces following the
quartz crisis.What are some of the differences you see between when you started out and where things are now?
PSM
- Essentially the increased size of the collectors market and education
through social media, had the Internet not existed I doubt I would have
been able to have the success I have had today.
JH - Where do you see Peter Speake-Marin in three years’ time?
PSM - In a different workshop with a larger team in a constant state of development.
JH - What do you like to do in your "down" time?
PSM - Family, food, wine.
Courtesy of Speake-Marin
JH - Was there ever a time when you asked yourself - "what was I thinking?"
PSM - Every other day
JH - Going out on your own was a big decision. Any regrets?
PSM - None
JH -Finally, any advice to the future aspiring watchmakers/entrepreneurs out there?
PSM
- Create a real business plan which will help you to plan every element
of your business and work, and assure your self a financial cushion.
Believe actions and results not words.