Showing posts with label new release. Show all posts
Showing posts with label new release. Show all posts

Thursday, October 31, 2024

The Primatic

From MeisterSinger -

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

A rare twist for MeisterSinger, the world's most well-known single handed watch - a "second" hand...
Courtesy of MeisterSinger

The single hand watch that we've all come to know and love, features a power reserve indicator just above the 6 O'clock indication.
Courtesy of MeisterSinger

Here are the pertinents -

Model       

Primatic 365

Movement

Sellita SW270, Automatic, power reserve 38 h, power reserve indication

Case

Stainless steel, 6 screws exhibition back, 5 bar, sapphire glass

Diameter

41,5 mm

Dial

Sunburst Bordeaux with Gold (PR365911G), Sunburst Steelblue with Gold (PR365917G)

Strap

Cowhide leather strap with croco print, Cognac and Brown

Speciality

Historical dial design

Origin

German brand, Swiss Made

RRP*

2.490€

Availability

Q4 2024

 

* Manufacturer’s recommended retail price incl. 19% statutory sales tax.

 







Wednesday, September 4, 2024

The Preventor HD12™ Steel - The Antidote

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is the latest time only offering from Hanhart, the Preventor HD12™ Steel.

The case measures 39 mm in diameter, and is made of HD12™ Steel. What's so special about HD12™ Steel is that it is highly scratch resistant. As any new watch owner will tell you, there are three phases of ownership:

Brand new, out of the box and shiny! You've never felt more whole, more complete in your happiness than this magical time.

The first scratch appears... you dwell upon it. you try not to stare at it. Not unlike Aylmer in Nathaniel Hawthorne's tale of obsession, "The Birthmark", this one slight imperfection in an otherwise flawless form pushes you to your breaking point.

And ultimately, the fifth and final stage of grief - acceptance. You join the bros who congregate    in Williamsburg in their faux heritage ensembles (apparently taking a break from felling trees or forging steel), sporting beards bushier than rhododendrons. You wade into the scrum with your favorite craft beer in hand and join the love fest. Full grown men admiring the dings, rust (charitably referred to as patina) and scratches the likes of which your cat might leave in your mid-century sofa that have accumulated on your watch. "It's legit, bro!"


Well, not to worry! Hanhart's Preventor HD12™ Steel is here to save you from yourself - and poorly informed lifestyle choices ; )

The movement is Sellita's SW200-1 with a power reserve of 38 hours.


If I have understood correctly, the prices in Europe are as follows:

EUR 995.00 including 19% VAT for the strap. The steel bracelet version is EUR 1,195.00 including 19% VAT.

Tuesday, June 25, 2024

The BR03 Diver RC

Available in five new flavors from Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Two of these new iterations are of ceramic. One with a black dial (above).
  • MOVEMENT

    Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic mechanical. 54-hour power reserve.

  • FUNCTIONS

    Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

  • CASE

    42 mm wide. Matt black ceramic. Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute scale in black ceramic. Minute track up to 15 minutes.

  • DIAL

    Black. Skeletonised metal applique hands and indices filled with white Super-LumiNova®. "Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Arrow-shaped hour hands.

  • CRYSTAL

    Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

  • WATER-RESISTANCE

    300 metres.

  • STRAP

    Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

  • BUCKLE

    Pin. Steel with black PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) finish.


Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The other ceramic model comes with what Bell & Ross describes as a full lume dial (above).
  • MOVEMENT

    Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic mechanical. 54-hour power reserve.

  • FUNCTIONS

    Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

  • CASE

    42 mm wide. Matt black ceramic. Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute scale in black ceramic. Minute track up to 15 minutes.

  • DIAL

    Coated in pale blue Super-LumiNova® (blue glow). "Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova® (green glow). Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® (green glow). Arrow-shaped hour hands.

  • CRYSTAL

    Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

  • WATER-RESISTANCE

    300 metres.

  • STRAP

    Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

  • BUCKLE

    Pin. Steel with black PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) finish.



In addition to the ceramic models, there are a further three new pieces in stainless steel -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

One with a black dial and strap (above).
  • MOVEMENT

    Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic mechanical. 54-hour power reserve.

  • FUNCTIONS

    Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

  • CASE

    42 mm wide. Satin-finished and polished steel. Unidirectional rotating steel bezel with 60-minute scale in black ceramic. Minute track up to 15 minutes.

  • DIAL

    Black. Skeletonised metal applique hands and indices filled with white Super-LumiNova®. "Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Arrow-shaped hour hands.

  • CRYSTAL

    Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

  • WATER-RESISTANCE

    300 metres.

  • STRAP

    Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

  • BUCKLE

    Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.


Courtesy of Bell & Ross

One with a blue dial and strap (above).
  • MOVEMENT

    Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic mechanical. 54-hour power reserve.

  • FUNCTIONS

    Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

  • CASE

    42 mm wide. Satin-finished and polished steel. Unidirectional rotating steel bezel with 60-minute scale in blue ceramic. Minute track up to 15 minutes.

  • DIAL

    Blue sunray. Skeletonised metal applique hands and indices filled with white Super-LumiNova®. "Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Arrow-shaped hour hands.

  • CRYSTAL

    Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

  • WATER-RESISTANCE

    300 metres.

  • STRAP

    Woven blue rubber and ultra-resistant synthetic black fabric.

  • BUCKLE

    Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.


Courtesy of Bell & Ross

And a third with a white dial and black strap (above).
  • MOVEMENT

    Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic mechanical. 54-hour power reserve.

  • FUNCTIONS

    Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

  • CASE

    42 mm wide. Satin-finished and polished steel. Unidirectional rotating steel bezel with 60-minute scale in black ceramic. Minute track up to 15 minutes.

  • DIAL

    White. Skeletonised metal applique hands and indices filled with white Super-LumiNova®. "Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Arrow-shaped hour hands.

  • CRYSTAL

    Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

  • WATER-RESISTANCE

    300 metres.

  • STRAP

    Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

  • BUCKLE

    Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.




Thursday, May 23, 2024

The BR 03 White Steel & Gold

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest addition to the BR 03 family. The case is of stainless steel and measures 41 mm wide with a thickness of 9.4 mm. The dial is silver opaline. The bezel and crown are 18 K rose gold. The movement is the BR - CAL .302-1.

Price - $6,900

Here are the pertinents in full -

  • MOVEMENT

    Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic mechanical movement. 54-hour power reserve.

  • FUNCTIONS

    Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

  • CASE

    41 mm wide. 9.4 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel and 18 K rose gold.

  • DIAL

    Silver opaline. Rose gold gilded applique indices and numerals filled with beige Super-LumiNova®. 18 K rose gold gilded skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with beige Super-LumiNova®.

  • CRYSTAL

    Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

  • WATER-RESISTANCE

    100 metres.

  • STRAP

    Brown calfskin leather.

  • BUCKLE

    Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.


 




Monday, February 26, 2024

The 417 Moby Dick

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

A bi-compax chronograph priced at EUR 1,940.00 incl. 19% VAT.

Courtesy of Hanhart

Featuring a hand-wound movement (Sellita SW 510 M), the chronograph is a modern reinterpretation of a model from the 1950s.
Courtesy of Hanhart

The case is of stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter. 

Courtesy of Hanhart

The functions include hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph. 

Here are the pertinents -

CASE:
Stainless steel, satined/polished
Diameter 42 mm
Height with glass 13.3 mm, height without glass 11.55 mm

Bezel -
Fluted rotating bezel, continuously rotatable

Glass -
Anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
High-domed sapphire glass

Case back -
Screwed-down stainless steel case back
Continuous serial number
Engraving of the historical logo on the case back

Water resistant / Shock proof -
Water resistant to 10 bar/10 ATM according to DIN 8310
Shockproof

DIAL:
Historical logo and bicompax layout

Numbers -
Historical Font
Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium GL coated numeral

Hands -
Thermally blued hands


MOVEMENT:

Caliber -
Manual wound chronograph
Sellita SW 510 M
Symmetrical button arrangement
28.800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 jewels

Power reserve -
Minimum 48 hours after full winding

Functions -
Small second
30-minute counter
Bicompax Chronograph with central stop-second

STRAP:
Cowhide leather
Lug width 21 mm

Colors -
Light brown with white stitching
Alternatively black or dark brown or steel bracelet

Buckle -
Pin-buckle with historical logo

Thursday, November 2, 2023

The Chrono Modern Zurich Grand Prix

From Maurice de Mauriac -

Courtesy of Maurice de Mauriac
Available in two versions - stainless steel with black PVD finish with a black dial (above), and in stainless steel with a silver dial (below) -

Courtesy of Maurice de Mauriac
It is also available in two different sizes - 42 mm or 45 mm in diameter.

Here are the pertinents -
Maurice de Mauriac Chrono Modern Zurich Grand Prix 
CASE: 
Brushed stainless steel or stainless steel with black PVD coating; screw-down bezel; screw-down crown and pushers; domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides; sapphire caseback; water resistant to 100 meters 
Diameter: 42mm, 50mm lug-to-lug; 45mm, 53.5mm lug-to-lug Height: 10.7mm 

MOVEMENT: 
Swiss Valjoux (ETA 7750 top execution); blued screws; personalized with a black coated racing-inspired oscillating weight 
Functions: hours, minutes; day and date; chronograph 

DIAL: 
Black or white with Zurich racing stripes and Lucky Numbers badge; guillochĂ©-stamped center; double day-date window; hands hands filled with Super-LumiNova 
Subdials: chronograph minute counter at 12 o’clock, chronograph hours at 6 o’clock 

BRACELET: 
22mm wide; brushed steel bracelet, stainless steel with black PVD coating, or NATO strap with white/blue color combo 

PRICE: 
from 3.700 CHF plus personalization (including 7.7% VAT) 
Availability: online and in the Zurich atelier

Tuesday, March 29, 2022

The Importance of Respecting A Press Embargo - Or When Exclusive Really Means Exclusion

Per Wikipedia -

In journalism and public relations, a news embargo or press embargo is a request or requirement by a source that the information or news provided by that source not be published until a certain date or certain conditions have been met. They are often used by businesses making a product announcement, by medical journals, and by government officials announcing policy initiatives; the media is given advance knowledge of details being held secret so that reports can be prepared to coincide with the announcement date and yet still meet press time. 

Okay, so we've gotten that out of the way ; )

As the new lead of Tempus Fugit mentioned, despite spending mere tens of thousands of CHF to airlift several more "well-heeled" members of the press to "double-secret" previews, there is always one itchy individual who feels that an embargo is more like a "suggestion" rather than a requirement. And that, among other reasons, accounts for some of the shit-show that was Saturday's retail fiasco with the MoonSwatch.

Was it a calculated move to leak in advance of the other "swells" who enjoyed first class (and deferential) treatment from the white gloved hands of Swatch and Omega? Sure. Would I consider them victims? Of course not. Was something like this happening inevitable? 
Absolutely!

But I would rather light a candle than curse their collective darkness. Therefore I would prefer to focus on the people who truly got the fuzzy end of the lollipop on this one, the customers and the employees of the "Exclusive" Swatch Boutiques.

Now another unrequested bit of Henki lore -
Back in the mid 80s, a certain northern youth grew his hair out in a somewhat abortive mullet in the hopes of catching the eye of the young women in the vicinity who were fans of a band from Ireland. History will reflect that this Northern Youth, along with 3 of his buddies, piled into his 77 Oldsmobile Cutlass and waited all night outside of the Ticket Master location. Said ticket outlet was inconveniently located in the Woolworth's of the Midway Mall -

So after many hours of shuffling around in the February chill, not infrequent runs to the nearby gas station for cokes, and several bio breaks behind the Ponderosa Steak House dumpster, we were finally admitted into the inside of the mall and were able to purchase our tickets at 9:00 AM.

I was happy, and drove the 30 minutes home and slept the rest of that Saturday morning.
Unbeknownst to my friends and I, one of our teachers decided that the day after the concert would be the ideal time for him to give his final exam, because he would be taking his vacation a little early so that he and his family could have some extra time, and thus his exam was moved to the week after exam week. So three U2 tickets promptly changed hands for exactly face value  (Oberlin was not a hotspot for scalping), and the internet had yet to make a real debut. And I developed a certain antipathy for U2 and anything Bono adjacent.

And as I heard tales from my friends around the globe this past Saturday and Sunday, they shared similar tales of angst, irritation, and downright anger. And I thought, not unlike my high school teacher waiting until the week before to announce a schedule change for a final exam, maybe Swatch could have been a little better prepared for what would unfold.

And this is where I, and several of my former colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate are likely to disagree. Was it an incredibly successful launch? YES! Did it break the internet (metaphorically, anyway)? Yes! Did it actually really cause a lot of frustration and leave a lot of people unhappy? Duh!


What the early jumper of the embargo did was effectively ensure that -

1. The Swatch Boutiques would get besieged by a LOT of unhappy people.

2. Potential customers would travel vast distances at great personal expense to get... well, Jack shit, and Jack had just left town.

3. A handful of outlets that had been used to getting spoon-fed all the best releases well in advance of the rest of the plebeians in the press corps would be coming back down to the level of, well, the rest of the press corps. Which in fact might prove to be useful, it's important sometimes to be reminded of where you came from ; )

A few final thoughts:
  • Swatch dropped the ball in terms of  logistics on this one. There is no nice way to say it. Some "Exclusive" Swatch Boutiques were so exclusive that they might as well have been excluded, with fewer than 100 pieces allocated to them. 
  • Secrecy is no excuse for making so few units in advance and not having a reasonable amount deployed. They say they were working on it for a year. That was ample time to get ready.  

Were they expecting the Keebler Elves to take a break from making cookies and come in and crank out MoonSwatches on the graveyard shift? It is clear that they wanted to make a big, messy splash just before Watches and Wonders (again - Duh!), and while they did make a splash, they also made a mess. And therefore, they will hopefully learn to communicate EVERYTHING first, not just the sexy bits. They should have let people know BEFOREHAND that it was not a limited edition, and that it would be available at a later date, at least for customers who were willing to wait. The last-minute scramble to explain this via Instagram posts did not really come out in official communication, and initially took on the hue of urban myth.

Let's be honest, that last bit would have made a HUGE difference. Imagine driving 9 hours, camping out all night, and just when you think it will all pay off... being told to take it on the heel and toe, no MoonSwatch for you Mr. and Ms. devoted fan.

Did Swatch inadvertently get damaged by the leak? Sure. Did they set the stage for this to happen? Sorry, but yes. And just as this Northern Youth learned back in the 80s, many of those disaffected Swatch fans "still haven't found what they're looking for".  

Sorry, too soon?

Let's hope that memories are short and loyal fans are forgiving. And in the meantime, I suggest we all try to think about something else. But for now, if the MoonSwatch decides to "walk away, walk away, walk", unlike monsieur Vox, I won't follow.

Thursday, March 24, 2022

Further Thoughts on the Swatch X Omega MoonSwatch

A lot can happen in a day and a half. Two days ago, Revolution slipped up and momentarily posted the announcement of the Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch. It was quickly taken down, but nothing is faster than watch nerds on the internet, who screengrabbed the article and marketing photos and reposted it everywhere. The next day, in a release apparently coordinated with Omega and Swatch, Fratello officially made the announcement. Then the entire watch world was set aflame. (Apparently there was some soreness amongst the watch press about Fratello getting the exclusive to announce first, but I can't think of a more appropriate outlet than the originator of #speedytuesday, which has devoted more content to the Speedmaster than any other major site.) 

James already dove into the release a bit in an earlier post, but the basics are as follows. Omega and Swatch--both part of the larger Swatch Group--have come together to create an affordable iteration of the Speedmaster. The watch is dubbed the MoonSwatch (which is admittedly very clever), and will come in eleven iterations inspired by the sun, the moon, and the planets of our solar system (and Pluto). They feature the same classic design as their historic brethren, including the bombĂ© lugs, asymmetrical case, and recessed pump pushers--even the dot over 90 for the diehard fanboys. The cases, however, are made with proprietary "bioceramic," a mix of two-thirds ceramic, one-third castor oil (which somehow merits the "bio" affix). The straps are Velcro, similar to those found on the Speedmaster Alaska Project model and the movement is a jeweled quartz mechanism which necessitates the rearrangement of the subdials. 

It was reported in the announcement that the MoonSwatch would only be available at select Swatch boutiques and there was no indication that they would be regular production models. As a result, in the day since the official announcement, a lot has happened. Swatch boutiques have been inundated with calls (some claiming, hopefully with hyperbole, that they've been picking up the phone every 7 seconds), with actual lines forming outside the storefronts. Perhaps not surprisingly, unscrupulous flippers have already listed the model for sale on eBay at more than a 10x markup. And there have been a lot of opinions. 

Then Swatch quietly confirmed (in multiple Instagram comment replies) that not only are the watches not limited, but they would be available online at a future date. While the flippers and people in line wipe the egg off their faces, we must ask: Why the wasn't it made clear that the MoonSwatch would be made widely available at a later date? 


Let's consider the goal of this watch, which is undoubtedly to entice two groups of people: those that would love a Speedmaster but can't afford one (or don't want to spend on one) and neophyte watch buyers. For the former, it offers a way to access a facsimile of an iconic watch; for the latter, it ideally serves as a gateway drug of sorts, leading to the eventual purpose of an Omega (Speedmaster or otherwise). It's a win-win for Omega and for Swatch. So why the chicanery? As ever, the answer to our questions is money: the surest way to create buzz and make something a runaway success is to create the illusion of scarcity.


This isn't the first time this has happened, nor will it be the last. In 2019, Hodinkee released the Seiko Alpinist SPB089. All the messaging from Hodinkee suggested that Hodinkee was the only place to get it. The reality, though, was that Hodinkee had an exclusive to sell the model first, and it would then be available directly from Seiko; while it was a limited edition, it was limited to the U.S. market, not to Hodinkee. Similarly, later that year, Grand Seiko released a U.S.-only Four Seasons collection, only to turn around and make them available worldwide. The effect is always the same: the watches sell out quickly, appear for resale at outrageous markups, and then leave those who had purchased them in earnest--with a desire to enjoy them--feeling they have something a little less special.

These aren't oversights or innocent miscommunications, and these brands don't have a lack of confidence in their product selling on their merits. On the contrary,  these are large companies intentionally manipulating the market to their advantage. They do it precisely because of their confidence in their product; the momentary ire of the watch community does not affect the bottom line. To be sure, the blustering over how the MoonSwatch was released has, from the start, been eclipsed by the excitement for the watches.

The excitement is deserved. From the perspective of someone who not only loves watches, but loves the watch community, this is only a good thing. The release of the MoonSwatch will bring more people into the community and allow those already here to own a Speedmaster where they may not have been able to before (Don't argue with me on that second point: the watch says "Speedmaster" right on the dial. It's a Speedmaster.) On top of that, the watches are cool. A ceramic watch modeled after an icon, offered in Eleven different case colors, each with a unique dial and matching strap, all for $260? There's something for literally everyone. 

Whether or not they will be learned, the release of the Swatch X Omega MoonSwatch has some lessons to offer. For brands: be more transparent in releasing a watch. For customers, especially the watch community: Don't buy a watch simply because it's a limited edition (or worse, because you think it is). For commentators (press and otherwise): clarify, get the full story, then react. 

While it's not clear when the MoonSwatch will be made more widely available, we know that it will, so we can all settled down. If you're feeling calm and like you can approach things rationally, both Omega and Swatch's sites have you covered. Omega has a page that tries to justify why it made an affordable copy of its best-selling watch and Swatch has a page bragging about how it made an affordable Speedmaster.