Zenith Version 12.0 - and Counting...

News reached the North Shore HQ of Henki Time a day or so ago about the not so rosy future of Zenith.

For those of you politely looking away from this protracted train wreck, here are the basics:

Having thrown an entire pot of spaghetti on the wall for the past 20 + years, and none of it sticking, the leadership at Zenith is proposing a few "changes"...

Now those of you recently arrived to Watch Town will likely not be aware of the constant and seemingly never ending reinvention of the folks from Le Locle. And in fairness? It's not the folks who design the watches, build the watches, and sell the watches - although they are the ones who will be paying the price. No, gentle reader, from Nataf, to a licorice assortment of temporary place holders, Zenith has struggled to not only have a steady hand at the wheel, but to clearly identify their place in Watch Town and make a real and sustained impact in retail.

One particular anecdote that to me typifies this malaise (albeit a rather "blue" one) goes back to BaselWorld and the flustered CEO explaining the concept behind having a full service barber offering haircuts and shoe shines in the booth. He joked that if things didn't improve, the next year's BaselWorld promos might involve certain things that I'd rather not go into in this space...

All of that being in the past, let's talk about where we are now. And this is just little me talking. Zenith does not inhabit the upper price echelons. It is not Patek, in fact it's not even IWC or honestly even Panerai. And I want to be clear, this is not about quality. Zenith makes an AMAZING product. But they have never, ever, been able to stay consistent and market it. They constantly get the "fidgets". This unwillingness to see things through leads to a product line that seems to be far too big, and a bit all over the place. This inevitably leads to the grey market being a likely landing place for so many "misfit toys".

The idea that Zenith's current CEO is proposing seems logical enough - super expensive, small volume brands are doing well. So let's decamp to the lofty heights of Hauteville!  But this is forgetting one important little nugget of recent history - it is far easier to reduce your prices than to increase them. Or more specifically, it is super hard to reinvent your brand ethos and get the people who actually spend coin of the realm on such luxuries as watches to buy into your new identity at the higher sticker price.

And now let's get back to the folks who are getting the fuzzy end of the lollipop - the workers. Yes, once again upper management will be fine. But if the stories out of Le Locle are to be believed, half of the staff at the manufacture will be no longer there - that's 100 jobs.

Now on the one hand, Mr. De Clerck is correct, a company can't continue to lose money indefinitely. But let's be real. Zenith didn't get to this current situation over night. As the owner of a Zenith El Primero (which I treasure), I certainly want to the brand succeed and thrive. 

Whether it will succeed through yet the latest reinvention or not remains to be seen. But as someone who counts more than a few folks who ply their trade in Le Locle, I wish them good luck and Godspeed.

The Vintage Rally Timer IV (VRT IV) Dreamsicle

From Wind Vintage x True North -

Courtesy of Wind Vintage & True North

This is the 4th edition of the Wind Vintage & True North collaboration - also sometimes known as the "Windtona". 

Courtesy of Wind Vintage & True North

This one has been dubbed the Dreamsicle. Per Wind Vintage:

Following the success of its previous three collaborations, Wind Vintage has teamed up with True North again for a new chronograph.

Offered in a new colorway with a pale orange dial, the Wind Vintage x True North Watch Company Vintage Rally Timer IV “Dreamsicle” is a tribute to Eric Wind his love for pale orange and his daughters’ love for pastel colors. It is a watch that offers the feel of a vintage watch with a totally unique dial and bezel color scheme. The Dreamsicle is limited to 1,986 pieces in honor of vintage expert Eric Wind’s birth year and turning 40 this year. The watch comes in a special edition box with orange printing.

The Vintage Rally Timer IV (VRT IV) Dreamsicle is priced at $490 US.

Here are the pertinents -

37mm case diameter, 44mm lug-to-lug case length, 13.8mm case thickness, 20mm lug width, domed sapphire-coated mineral crystal and sapphire-coated bezel, 50-meter water resistance, 316L stainless steel case and bracelet, and Seiko (SII) VK63 Mechaquartz Watch Movement. The SII (Seiko Instruments) caliber VK63 is part of the hybrid mechanical quartz movement line. It is a chronograph movement that uses quartz technology for the main functions of the watch and a mechanical module for operating the chronograph.

The Shellman Grand Complication Classic

And I said to myself:

おめでとうございます (congratulations), Henki!  I am now officially obsessed!

Courtesy of Shellman

So, I have known about Shellman since the jump, and in truth I didn't really pay it as much attention as it deserved. And that is solely down to the fact that it is a quartz watch. And it took a recent encounter with my mechanical moon phase, day, date chronograph to remind me of what a monumental pain in the ass it is to re-set ; )

So ladies and gentlemen, and children of all ages, allow me to reintroduce the Shellman Grand Complication Classic.

Courtesy of Shellman

The Grand Complication Classic is, well, complicated ; )

But that's the point. But what it also underscores is that quartz isn't dumb. As has been said many times before, had quartz been available to Abraham Louis Breguet? He probably would have used it ; )

What is wonderful about this time machine, is that to some extent, you can pretty much "set it and forget it".

Now my Japanese isn't what it once was, Kasukabe was nearly 35 years ago now, but my understanding is that you can still purchase a Shellman Grand Complication from Shellman. But getting it shipped outside of Japan seems to be the tricky bit.

Per the website, the price is: ￥141,900

In the lower 48, that means you are looking at:

$890 US.

And I ask you - a watch that will be pretty much bang on time as it is quartz, has a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, moon phase, and a split-second chronograph for less than $1,000 yankee greenbacks?!? 

If you are now (like me) obsessed, here are the pertinents:

GRAND COMPLICATION CLASSIC

Product name	Shellman Grand Complication Classic
price	Classical: ¥141,900 (tax included)
size	Diameter 40mm, Thickness 13mm
weight	Approximately 70g (including belt and buckle)
Material	Body: Stainless steel; Crystal: Curved sapphire crystal
movement	Quartz movement Cal.6771 (accuracy ±20 seconds per month)
waterproof	Daily life waterproof
accessories	French Camille Fournet alligator strap (color: Marine) with Japanese-made stainless steel D-buckle.
Country of origin	The case, movement, and buckle are made in Japan, while the included strap is made in France.
battery life	Approximately 2 years (assuming the minute repeater is used for an average of 17 seconds per day and the chronograph is used for an average of 1 hour per day)
Warranty period	2-year warranty

The Chilton

From Haven -

Courtesy of Haven

This is (I believe, anyway) the latest iteration of the Chilton from the still semi-nascent Indiana brand.

The dial is a wonderful take on what I'll call functional fun. Very legible, very easy to understand - and yet that little bit of whimsey with the 12 o'clock register.

And what I totally love? in the bottom dial segment where you might normally find "made in..." it says simply:

Midwest.

And most importantly in these uncertain financial times? It is priced very, very reasonably at $1,499 US.

Here are the pertinents:

Diameter: 37.5mm
Thickness: 13.1mm
Lug-to-lug: 47mm
Lug width: 18mm
Case Material: 316L Steel case, titanium caseback
Water Resistance: 5ATM
Bracelet: Lemon top-grain premium leather bracelet
Caliber: Sellita SW510 M b
Power Reserve: rated for 50 hours, but most of ours get to 60.
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 28,800
Jewels: 23

The People You Meet On Vacation - Cimier and the 711 POP PINK

Courtesy of Cimier

Okay, vacation is often coupled with travel. And when your side-hustle is in Watch Town, at least once a year your vacation plans will be a busman's holiday in Switzerland. This past April found yours truly holding down the booth of one of the brands I work with. And I got a chance to see the other participating brands. In some instances it's very much like seeing old friends.

And you also get to have a closer look at some brands that you have admired from afar. Now make no mistake, I am loyal to the brands I work with, but I am, at heart, someone who loves watches. I am not (at least I don't think I am) a snob. I also make a point of living within reality (i.e. my means). At other times in my life I've owned two different Rolex models, and in hindsight the experience did not live up to my fevered dreams. And while it would be nice to own a Patek or Vacheron, I don't want a watch to own me. By that I mean if I have a watch, I want to be able to wear it without fear (of theft, damage, or worse).

So back to the matter at hand, and a little bit more about me. Up until three years ago, I would always spend at least a day or two in Biel/Bienne each Switzerland trip. And if I was particularly lucky, it might include a visit to Tissot Arena to either take in FC Biel/Bienne (football), or EHC Biel-Bienne (ice hockey).

You could say that I am the unofficial US supporters' club for both teams ; )

Okay, so what's the connection? After leaving each game at Tissot Arena, you can't help but clap eyes on the Cimier HQ as you are turning right to head out. So in an odd sort of way, I already felt connected.

So while I had been curious, and perhaps admired Cimier from afar, this past April was my first opportunity to spend real time with the collection, and get to meet two of the Cimier folks - Alexandra Lanz (CEO) and Antoine Abadie (Marketing Manager). And at least from my side, it was time well-spent. I will be coming back in more detail about the brand and the current offerings in later posts. But today is about (spoiler alert) my new-ish Cimier 711 POP PINK.

And as I am an impatient sort of fellow, I pulled the trigger without too much foot dragging ; )

Now I am a man of many moods, and I live in a climate that can be a bit unforgiving in terms of humidity and its effects on how a watch fits on. my wrist, I was partiularly drawn to Cimier's use of quick spring straps, but also the clever opening at the lug ends to ensure quick and easy changes. 

So much for that I also sprung for the bracelet, and a glad that I did ; )

After two months, let me just say that the love affair continues!

Now while I could drone on about tech specs, "value propositions", etc., I would rather just focus on what my philosophy about watches and time. You don't need one, and you can't escape the other. So at a bare minimum, a watch should bring you joy. And my Cimier 711 POP PINK brings me joy every time I wear it.

YES! Mathey - Tissot!

There is a lot of snobbery in Watch Town and Watch Town adjacent. It often reminds me of the scene in Bottle Shock where the somewhat uptight English wine merchant brilliantly played by Alan Rickman defends his contempt for California wines (unknowingly) to California vinyard / winery owner played by Bill Pullman, and Pullman calls bullshit:

            "You're a snob, it limits you" 

I had the very great pleasure of meeting the folks at Mathey-Tissot at Time to Watches in Geneva last month. I picked up a modest (but damn good looking) Mathey-Tissot quartz piece. And I noticed some real beauties lurking nearby. And upon further reflection, I found this beauty.

Courtesy of Mathey-Tissot

This is the 1968. And while my quest for a birth year watch has proved fruitless for some time, this wonderful time machine quite well scratches the itch for me!

It is special.

The case measures 41 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel. The movement is Landeron's self-winding 73B. 

The asking price? So totally fair at $2,579.00 US.

I would highly, HIGHLY recommend that if you're in the market for something special, have a good look at the Mathey-Tissot 1968. 

There is a LOT of noise, posturing, and posing in Watch Town, but the 1968 absolutely strikes a chord with yours truly, it is something that stands on its own. 

I hope to have more Mathey-Tissot goodness to share in the coming weeks.

The BR-X3 Patrouille de France

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest from Bell & Ross. For the past several years they have partnered with the Patrouille de France aerobatic team for a special watch. This year's version is limited to 250 pieces.

The asking is $8,100.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Bell & Ross -

Movement : Manufacture. Automatic Mechanical Movement. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

Functions : Hours, minutes and seconds. Date window at 3 o'clock and power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock.

Case : 41 mm wide. 13.30 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Decorative side pillar and bezel in blue anodised aluminium with micro-blasted finish. Sapphire case-back featuring a custom metallised Patrouille de France logo.

Dial : Three-plate construction – matt black base, blue and white skeletonised applique, matt black insert – with polished and rhodium-plated “Baignoire-style” applique indices, filled with white Super-LumiNova® BGW9 Grade X1 (blue glow). Patrouille de France logo at 6 o'clock. Power reserve window featuring the colours of the French flag (blue, white and red). Skeletonised rhodium-plated hour and minutes hands filled with Super-LumiNova® BGW9 Grade X1 (blue glow).

Crystal : Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance : 100 metres.

Strap : Openworked black rubber and blue ultra-resilient synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.

The Rallye Méca Quartz Chronographe GPFH 2026

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

This is the latest from the folks in Besançon. A new take on their Rallye chronograph collection.

In their own words -


LIP Rallye Chronograph Grand Prix de France Historique – Limited Edition 2026

The house of LIP has created a third exclusive model, in a limited and numbered edition, co-branded with the Grand Prix de France Historique to celebrate its third year as the Official Timekeeper. This season’s inspiration comes from the cyan blue run-off stripes that are iconic on the Circuit Paul Ricard.

The case is of polished stainless steel, and measures 39 mm in diameter.

The movement is a meca quartz.

Limited to 1,906 pieces, and priced at €349.00
Tax included.

MECHANICA CHRONO "NINE IN TEN"

From Done -

Courtesy of Done 

While I might have announced this in an earlier some time back, I actually got to take the Mechanica Chrono for a spin around the halls of Geneva.

This was originally announced this new piece last December, but now that I have had a chance to try it on and put it through its paces?

Let me put all doubts aside - YOU WANT THIS WATCH! I certainly know that I do!

In speaking with the man behind Done, Thierry Clottu, the Nine in Ten will start shipping in June.

As a reminder, here are the pertinents -

Watch diameter

40mm

Bracelet/Strap width

20mm on the case and 18mm on the buckle

Water-resistant

10 ATM (100m)

Movement power reserve

60 hours (±2h)

Crown

Engraved with DONE logo

Case back

Screwed with sapphire crystal and consecutive number

Movement frequency

4Hz

Hands

Faceted and diamond-polished with Superluminova C1

Case Material

Stainless Steel

Type of watches

Chronograph

Movement

Automatic chronograph L111

Watch box

Leather travel pouch designed to hold multiple watch straps

The 417 TI Desert Pilot, 39 mm

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is the latest offering from the folks in Guetenbach. The 417 TI Desert Pilot is a bicompax, hand-winding column wheel chronograph bearing the TI designation (titanium) as opposed to the more familiar ES designation (stainless steel). As advertised, it is available in 39mm, and also a slightly larger 42 mm option. 

Courtesy of Hanhart

Under the hood its Sellita's AMT 5100, a hand wound column wheel chronograph, viewable through a sapphire crystal display back.

Courtesy of Hanhart

Here are the pertinents, straight from Hanhart -

CASE:

DIMENSIONS
Diameter 39 mm
Height: 13.60 mm (11.55 mm without crystal)
Lug-to-Lug: 46 mm

MATERIAL
Titanium Grade 5, matte

BEZEL
Fluted stainless steel bezel, bi-directional, continuously rotating
Red Marking

GLASS
Convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Highly domed sapphire crystal (as on the historic model).

CASE BACK
Screw-down titanium case back with sapphire crystal.
Limited edition number

WATER RESISTANCE
Water-resistant up to 10 bar/10 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310


MOVEMENT:

CALIBER
Manual winding
Sellita AMT 5100 M
Symmetrical pusher spacing
28,800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 stones

POWER RESERVE
58 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS
Small second
30-minute counter
Chronograph with central stop second
Hacking seconds
Flyback

DIAL:

DIAL
Sand colors
Historical logo

NUMBERS
Historical Font
Black numerals with Super-LumiNova® coating (only very weakly luminous due to the black color).

HANDS
Hands with Super-LumiNova® coating (only weakly luminous due to the sand-colored base).

STRAP:

STRAP
FKM Rubber
Lug width 20 mm

COLORS
Sand colors
Black

BUCKLE
Pin buckle made of Grade 5 titanium with historic logo.

The Montecristo Monopulsante

From Pilo -

Courtesy of Pilo

To mark 25 years, Pilo has releasted the 

Montecristo Monopulsante. A quartz mono-pusher chronograph.

Courtesy of Pilo

Here are the pertinents -

• Case: 316L Stainless steel case, 41 mm wide x 10.4 mm thick

• Case finish: polished / satin-brushed on the sides, branding engraved on the back

• Dial: world map, sun guilloché

• Glass: Domed scratch-resistant K1 crystal

• Movement: 255.241-ETA Quartz chronograph

• Bracelet: 316L Stainless steel 7-link bracelet, 18 mm wide

• Clasp: butterfly

• Water resistance up to 50 meters

• Functions: central chronograph seconds, 30 minute Chronograph (6 o’clock), Hour / minute hand

PRICE: CHF 699

The Faubourg de Cracovie 'Crossroads' Victory Green

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek

A chronograph in green. This is the latest addition tothe Faubourg de Cracovie collection.

Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41.5 mm in diameter.

Courtesy of Czapek

The movement is Calibre SXH3.

INTERNATIONAL RETAIL PRICE (before taxes) - 32’000 CHF - 34’600 EUR - 44’800 USD

Anyhoooo, if you are unlike 99.9999% of the people who will every read this and are ready to plop down just south of half a hundred grand, here are the pertinents -

FUNCTIONS 

- Chronograph, hours, minutes & seconds 

- Chronograph's minutes at 3 o'clock 

- Chronograph's hours at 9 o'clock 

- Small seconds at 6 o'clock 

- Date window at 6 o’clock

MOVEMENT 

- Calibre SXH3: haute horlogerie integrated automatic chronograph movement with a Czapek bespoke execution 

- Power reserve: 65 hours 

- Frequency: 5 Hz 

- 36'000 VpH 

- Column wheel, vertical clutch and linear hammer 

- 22 karat golden rotor with Czapek logo 

- Diameter: 30mm 

- 13 lines 1/4 

- Height: 6.95mm 

- Certified chronometer (COSC) 

FINISH 

- Finely sandblasted and diamond blasted anthracite bridges, snailed trottoirs

CASE 

- 41.5mm stainless steel case 

- 49mm Lug to lug (12h-6h) 

- Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment 

- Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment 

- Water resistance: 50m

DIAL 

- Handcrafted Czapek guilloché “Crossroads” dial in ‘Alloy 401’ (AuPtPdAg) in a vivid green colour - Black tachymeter scale 

- Baton applied indexes with Superluminova treatment 

- Double index at 12 o’clock with Superluminova treatment 

- Rhodium plated and blackened steel arrow hands

BRACELET 

- Size : 22mm / 18mm 

- Alcantara or calf strap with a deploying clasp