The Rallye Méca Quartz Chronographe GPFH 2026

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

This is the latest from the folks in Besançon. A new take on their Rallye chronograph collection.

In their own words -


LIP Rallye Chronograph Grand Prix de France Historique – Limited Edition 2026

The house of LIP has created a third exclusive model, in a limited and numbered edition, co-branded with the Grand Prix de France Historique to celebrate its third year as the Official Timekeeper. This season’s inspiration comes from the cyan blue run-off stripes that are iconic on the Circuit Paul Ricard.

The case is of polished stainless steel, and measures 39 mm in diameter.

The movement is a meca quartz.

Limited to 1,906 pieces, and priced at €349.00
Tax included.

The Nautic W x The Watch Observer

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

Per Lip -

Made in France – Besançon

The Nautic W: an exclusive limited edition

Limited to 300 numbered pieces and water-resistant to 200 m, this dive watch is the result of a collaboration between Lip and The Watch Observer, a website and YouTube channel dedicated to lovers of fine timepieces.

Directly derived from the Nautic 3 released in 2023, this new model comes in a more accessible yet highly appealing form. The Nautic W features a 39 mm stainless-steel case with a design inspired by the 1970s, paired with contemporary high-end finishing that alternates brushed surfaces with polished mirror chamfers.

It establishes itself as a brand-new reference within the Lip catalogue thanks to its original, ultra-legible and streamlined dial, with minutes read on the unidirectional rotating bezel.
Protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the matte black dial is fitted with large hour markers and hands coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring optimal readability even at depth.
Its quartz movement, the Time Module VH31 calibre, delivers excellent accuracy (-/+ 0.5 seconds per day) and frees the wearer from the constraints of manual winding.
As befits a limited edition, the Nautic W is delivered with two easily interchangeable Tropic-style straps (one black and one orange) made of vulcanized rubber, to suit any mood.

Courtesy of Lip

Here are the pertinents from Besançon -

Case: round metal polish & brush

Size: 39 mm

Lug width: 20 mm

Functions:3 Hands - hours/minutes/seconds.
Central sweep seconds
Stop second.

Water Resistance : 20 atm

Weight: 82 grammes

Crystal: domed sapphire glass

Hands: white

Dial: Matte black

Indexes: index & arabic figures 3.6.9.12 white

Movement : quartz + battery

Reference movement : Time Module VH31

Accuracy: +/-15 seconds/month.

Back case : steel a vis

Strap : vulcanized rubber black

About Nautic 3

A French History

The Nautic W – A limited edition of 300 numbered pieces

Impressed by the modernized 2023 reissue of the Lip Nautic 3 with an automatic movement, Thomas and Pierre from The Watch Observer met with Pierre‑Alain Bérard, CEO of Lip. During a discussion about the fascinating history of the brand, Thomas suggested revisiting the Nautic 3 to create a more accessible version, which led to the idea of a limited series of 300 numbered pieces capturing the spirit of Lip’s dive watches from the 1960s and 70s. After several drafts and enthusiastic exchanges, the duo created the Nautic W—pronounced like “TWO” in English—a name that subtly references the initials of the website founded over 15 years ago by Pierre and Thomas Gisclard.

A Quick Review of the Lip Annapurna

 So, it would seem, time's up!

Courtesy of Lip

Now I have been holding onto a wee bit of a secret since March 2024. At that time I visited Lip in Besançon, and Pierre-Alain Berard shared with me that Lip was on the threshold of completing work on their new movement. Now he stressed, this was not meant to be a revolution in horology. It was meant to be a movement that would power what used to be referred to as the watch of the people (of France and possibly Belgium). So this movement would not be 100% original. It would be based upon pre-exisiting architecture, but with some new flourishes. It would be assembled, regulated, and cased in the Lip workshops in Besançon. He had been wearing a test model and with the promise that we were "off the record" shared with me the vision of what Lip was intending and where it was heading. 

Fast forward one year, and I met Pierre-Alain in Geneva and he showed me the three prototypes that would make up the new collection. Again, I had to keep it to myself, and was glad to do so.

So now, it seems, the new Lip Manufacture movements are here and powering three different models. The Nautic 666 (also known as the "Devil Diver"), the Type 14, and the Annapurna. 

Courtesy of Lip

Now the Lip movements have been out for a bit, and they have received the usual amount of scrutiny that you might expect. So if you're looking for a lot of feedback on technical aspects, I encourage you to seek other reviews. For me, Lip is a matter of feeling. Owing to that, and the fact that I hope to someday represent them in North America, I think it important to stress that any review I do of Lip can't really be objective. And I'm okay with that ; )

So some Lip naming background. The Annapurna is (to some extent) based on the Himalaya model. It is named for the tenth highest mountain in the world. It represents Lip's dressier range. 

Per Lip:

ANNAPURNA - R26

Reach the peaks

In tribute to the achievement of the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who conquered the first peak over 8000 meters, the "Annapurna" collection was launched by Fred Lip in 1951, before being renamed Himalaya after the ascent of Everest in 1953. Today, LIP reintroduces this iconic watch featuring the R26 movement, combining a 39 mm polished stainless steel or PVD gold case with a black or silver dial. Water-resistant up to 50 meters, the Annapurna celebrates the golden age of mechanical watchmaking and positions itself as a classic prestige piece dedicated to adventurers.

This particular model is available in three versions - the black dial model that Lip was kind enough to let me run around the block with, and two white sunburst dial models (one with a stainless steel case, the other is stainless with a gold PVD finish).

Lip was kind enough to let me choose which to review, and I opted for the black dial model. A quick note, not the easiest to photograph, but a striking time keeper nonetheless.

So I will first give you my (admittedly biased) impressions of the Lip Annaupurna. I am at once reminded of when Nomos first came on the scene. It was a nice watch, the finishing was good, and it was affordable. Moreover? It was different. And apparently I am not the only one with that feeling. Lip sent 2 each of the new collections and the feedback was a resounding yes from visitors to the HYPE in NYC a few weeks back. I suspect Lip will have a bright future in the coming years.

Now back to the watch itself - it is very comfortable and with a substantial (but not overwhelming) 39 mm case. The finishing is smooth and precise. The dial is pleasantly formatted and legibility is top-notch. The only thing I would possibly change is the location of the date, or modify the number 3. But this is just one person's opinion ; )

The setting is precise and the hand-winding solid. The crown is tactile without being rough.

The strap is leather, with a 20 mm lug width. The buckle is pleasantly shaped, bearing the Lip logo. The strap has a quick release spring bar system, so with luck Lip will offer other strap options - or you can of course purchase other options to swap out.

The movement is Lip's new endeavor, per Lip -
Movement: mecanic automatic
Reference movement: R26D
Automatic mechanical movement.
Frequency: 21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 21.
Accuracy: -5/+10 sec/Day.
Power reserve (Mainspring after fully wound up): 42 hours.
Finishing: LIP custom decoration of the gear bridge and the oscillating weight.

So who is the watch for? If you are that guy (or gal) who goes to every watch meet up with a loupe, ready to quote chapter and verse every reference number and convinced that you know more than anyone else? This is not the watch for you. And what do I mean by that? Simply put, Watch Town, and the folks who populate it are not always the most interesting people in the room. You wanna' know who are the most interesting & intriguing people at any watch show or meet-up?

The romantics. 

What do I mean by that? Simply put, anyone with enough CHF, YEN, EURO, or even DOLLARS US can create watches and sell them. And that in no way makes what they create any more or less worthy than any other watch. But very few watches can collect, carry, and convey emotion. Very few can hit that visceral nerve where a watch goes beyond a mere timekeeper and transforms into a true time machine. These new Lip watches do just that.

Now as I said at the top of this - I am biased. I have made my way to Besançon three times over the past 10 years and am looking forward to even more visits to watch how Lip under its new-ish leadership will continue to grow and evolve. Lip, Besançon, and the Berard's are that magical combination that French watchmaking has been wanting and needed for far too long. Now that the stars have aligned, Lip is truly ready to regain its status as the watch of France - and beyond.

So how do you put a price tag on that? Well, I have good news for you - the asking price is not nothing, but also not anything to send you into shock -

€890.00

Tax included

Now that is the price in the EU. What that will translate into in terms of USD remains to be seen, but at today's exchange rate (per the XE app): $1,026.34 US.

And Now For Something Completely Different...

Viva La Lip!

So, I am (as far as I know) the luck first person outside of Europe (and maybe even France) who gets to spend time with the new manufacture Lip watches. I will be showing these new time machines along with a few from the not-so-distant past. While they are all resting comfortably in NYC, awaiting their North American debut, the nice folks at Lip lent me this wrist rocket for a review. 

Quality time has been spent, and as I prepare to head to Gotham for what promises to be an action packed weekend filled with watches and friends (both old and new), I will be giving you gentle reader all the details in the next 24 hours.

What I Don't Necessarily Need...But I Desperately Want!

Courtesy of Lip

So Lip is lately full of surprises! Although it's a bit big for my wrist, I am now officially obsessed ; )

If my viewing of Chef's Table - Legends is correct, a large Blancpain wall clock hangs on the wall of the French Laundry. Under the clock are the words: Sense of Urgency

Courtesy of Lip

And if I do manage to lay hands to one of these time machines from Lip I will likely put a similar message underneath.

A sense of urgency is, in fact, something we should all try to live with. We should not just drift through life waiting and hoping. Life is too short for hoping and waiting.

So for those of you with the same feeling, read on for the pertinents, straight from Besançon -

LIP Mach 2000 Wall Clock

Réf. : 670068 

€199.00
Tax included

Where design redefines time

In 1974, LIP set out to break boundaries by inviting seven designers from outside the watchmaking world to reimagine its creations. The ambition was clear: to breathe fresh life into the brand after the social upheavals of 1973. A year later, in 1975, a daring new collection emerged — a bold departure that redefined the future of LIP. Among these visionary designs, one stood out and became truly iconic: the MACH 2000 chronograph, created by the celebrated designer Roger Tallon. 

Today, in 2025, a new icon is born: a wall clock inspired by the emblematic design of the MACH 2000 chronograph watch face. 

More than just a way to tell time, this clock transforms any space into a gallery of art, bringing a touch of elegance and originality to your interior. 

Let this unique creation infuse your everyday life with an artistic dimension. With LIP, time itself becomes a true work of design. 

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

• Dimensions: W 31.5 cm × H 30 cm × D 5.5 cm
• Weight: 900 g
• Movement: Silent quartz
• Display: Analog
• Hands: 3 (hours/minutes/seconds)
• Design: Two white hands & silent yellow second hand
• Dial: Black with baton indexes
• Sub-dials: 2 decorative counters
• Crystal: Flat acrylic glass
• Case material: Thermoplastic polymer “ABS” (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
• Power supply: 1 × AA battery (LR06) included
• Warranty: 2 years 

The Annapurna Automatique 39 mm

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

This is the Besançon brand's second act featuring the new R26D movement.

Courtesy of Lip

The case is stainless steel, measuring 39 mm in diameter.
 

It is offered in three different versions, but I have to admit that I am rather taken with the black dial version. With that said, the silver dial is quite striking as well -

Courtesy of Lip

Here are the pertinents -

Case  

Round stainless steel - brushed & polished finish

Dimensions: 

39 mm
Water Resistance: 

5 atm
Lug Width: 

20 mm

Movement
Movement Reference: 

R26D

Automatic mechanical movement.
Frequency: 

21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 

21
Accuracy: 

-5/+10 sec/Day
Power reserve (Mainspring fully wound): 

42 hours
Finishing:

LIP custom decoration of the gear bridge and the oscillating weight.

Functions :
Hours/minutes/seconds/date
Stop-second function

The TYPE 14

From Lip!

Courtesy of Lip

This represents the first offering from the Besançon based brand to feature the new Caliber R26 -

Courtesy of Lip

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41 mm in diameter. It features a triangular marker that rotates inside bezel and can be adjusted via the second screw down crown.

Courtesy of Lip

The TYPE 14 is water resistant to 100 meters.

Courtesy of Lip

The strap is nubuck, and features quick change springs!

And this underscores the seriousness and sincerity of Pierre-Alain and the team at Lip as they steadily move forward not only reviving a once great brand, but moving it even further ahead!

And yes, I am a little biased ; )

Here are the pertinents -

Case: round brushed 316L stainless steel
Dimensions: 41 mm
Lug width: 20 mm
Bezel: external notched and internal bidirectional rotating with triangular index
Functions:

Glass: slightly domed sapphire with double-sided anti-reflective treatment

Waterproofness: 100 meters

Case back: screwed flat glass

Movement: self-winding mechanical
Movement reference: R26D
Frequency: 21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 21.
Accuracy: -5/+10 sec /Day.
Power reserve at full charge: 42 hours.
Finishing: personalized LIP decoration of the gear train bridge and oscillating weight.

3 hands: hours/minutes/seconds.
Date.
Stop seconds.

Dial: black textured tarmac style
Hands: luminescent silver
Index: Light beige luminescent Arabic numerals

Bracelet: camel nubuck leather
Quick release: yes
Clasp: exclusive LIP Manufacture pin buckle

Caliber R26: the new self-winding movement from LIP!

We're going to have a lot of Lip goodness today, but as I'm headed to the gym I for what promises to be an exhausting and brutal barbell class, I want to make sure we start at the beginning - the movement!

Courtesy of Lip

So before going any further, I have a confession to make. I have known about the development of this new movement and the exciting new watch that it is matched with. I got to see a preview a few weeks ago while in Switzerland and France and have been (im)patiently waiting to see the release and be able to share it!

The Caliber R26 is Lip's new, proprietary movement. So for anyone out there who had any doubt as to how seriously Pierre-Alain Berard and the team in Besançon are taking the revival of Lip, doubt no longer!

And as they've put all the work in, I thought I'd let them share the news in their own words -

Convinced that it had to restore the nobility of the oldest French brand still in operation, LIP's management decided to launch production of the LIP R26 in-house movement.

After three years of patient work carried out in collaboration with the SupMicroTech engineering school in Besançon, this self-winding mechanical movement, 70% of the cost price of which is French and more specifically from the Besançon region, equips a first family of watches designed to meet the needs of demanding users, whether on land, at sea or in the air.

Lip R26

Technical Characteristics

• Manufacture-made self-winding mechanical caliber, 26 mm in diameter and 5.92 mm thick.
• Clockwork brass treated by electroplating and surfaces with sandblasted finishes.
• Cost price 70% French.
• Design, assembly and adjustment carried out in-house in Besançon.
• LIP custom decoration of the gear train bridge and oscillating weight: laser carbonization of the LIP letters. Hexagonal screws for the oscillating weight, gear train bridges and balance wheel
• Setting of rubies in the LIP Manufacture workshops in Besançon.
• Regulating group oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour.
• 42 hours of power reserve on full charge.
• Accuracy: from 5 seconds late to 10 seconds early per day.
• Display: hours, minutes, central seconds, date window.
• Quick date adjustment using the winding crown.
• Stop second for more precise time setting.

So now, hopefully, I've got your attention!

Stay tuned, we've got a busy Saturday ahead of us as we roll this exciting news out!

Possibly just under the radar, but that makes it fun!

Courtesy of TheTimeChanger

This is a new collaboration piece from TheTimeChanger and Alain Silberstein.

Per TheTimeChanger -

THETIMECHANGER X ALAIN SILBERSTEIN

€1,890.00

• Professional retrograde chronograph watch
• Flyback and Rattrapante (split-seconds) functions
• Chronometric precision

2 numbered limited series:

• Black dial watch: 150 watches
• Blue dial watch: 150 watches

It's important to understand that this is not some ordinary quartz chronograph. Again, per TheTimeChanger -

A UNIQUE MOVEMENT

This quartz movement is powered by two silicon MEMS micromotors. Fully programmable, this movement enables the creation of complex horological complications, such as retrograde hands with flyback and retrograde (split-seconds) functions for chronograph mode.

Mechanism: Programmable MEMS micromotor, made in Besançon
Mode: Retrograde Hour + Minutes
Functions: Flyback and rattrapante (split-seconds)
Water Resistance: 5 ATM
Casing: stainless steel with PVD treatment*
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire for excellent readability
Diameter:** 42mm and Thickness : 11mm
Weight: 64g

And a pretty cool video -

Closing The Circle - The Pitko

A bit more about me...

In the late 90s Wendy and I were living and working in Finland. My job had evolved and I was traveling to London a few times a year. And one time coming through Heathrow, I laid eyes on an Alain Silberstein watch. For the youngsters out there, it is important to impart the fact that the internet was not yet the highly evolved information/communication conduit that it has become. Around this time I had a Nokia Communicator -

Image: Arne Dedert/dpa/picture alliance

Suffice it to say, this was not the age where you could simply Google something, jump on a forum, or go to a "trusted" online watch news outlet (yes, that last one was a bit of sarcasm).

So from 1998 through 2011 Alain Silberstein and his watches were more of a construct for me than an actual thing I had seen in person. In 2011 I went to my first BaselWorld as a journalist. And on my last day there, who should be sitting at the bar next to me in the Palace than Mr. Silberstein himself! I introduced myself, asked him if an interview might be possible, he said sure. We exchanged cards, I reached out, and got the first of several "I am busy, but soon" replies. This went on for about a year, and then it would appear that Alain Silberstein, as a brand, was no longer.

Fast forward to 2015, and I found myself in Besançon, France -

This was something that I never expected to see, but it hit the reset button on my now full-blown Alain Silberstein obsession.

Fast forward again, nearly 10 years later and a friend reached out, letting me know that his Alain Silberstein Pitko was available. Decisions were quickly made, a trade was agreed, and a little over a week later it was on my wrist -

It came as just the watch head only, so I made a temporary swap from my stockpile of straps, while I look for a more long-term solution.

To be sure, this is a watch that has clearly had a few owners. It has some minor scratches, no box or papers. But to me it is perfect. And in many ways it sums up over 25 years of an unrequited crush.

I have had 2 Omega Speedmasters, 2 Seamasters, a Rolex Explorer and Date, even a Panerai B series. But this? This is most absolutely top of the heap.

Life is a long time, and I have been through several ups and downs since that stopover in London. But there is something to be said for that visceral feeling that just the right watch can give you!