A Quick Review of the Lip Annapurna

 So, it would seem, time's up!

Courtesy of Lip

Now I have been holding onto a wee bit of a secret since March 2024. At that time I visited Lip in Besançon, and Pierre-Alain Berard shared with me that Lip was on the threshold of completing work on their new movement. Now he stressed, this was not meant to be a revolution in horology. It was meant to be a movement that would power what used to be referred to as the watch of the people (of France and possibly Belgium). So this movement would not be 100% original. It would be based upon pre-exisiting architecture, but with some new flourishes. It would be assembled, regulated, and cased in the Lip workshops in Besançon. He had been wearing a test model and with the promise that we were "off the record" shared with me the vision of what Lip was intending and where it was heading. 

Fast forward one year, and I met Pierre-Alain in Geneva and he showed me the three prototypes that would make up the new collection. Again, I had to keep it to myself, and was glad to do so.

So now, it seems, the new Lip Manufacture movements are here and powering three different models. The Nautic 666 (also known as the "Devil Diver"), the Type 14, and the Annapurna. 

Courtesy of Lip

Now the Lip movements have been out for a bit, and they have received the usual amount of scrutiny that you might expect. So if you're looking for a lot of feedback on technical aspects, I encourage you to seek other reviews. For me, Lip is a matter of feeling. Owing to that, and the fact that I hope to someday represent them in North America, I think it important to stress that any review I do of Lip can't really be objective. And I'm okay with that ; )

So some Lip naming background. The Annapurna is (to some extent) based on the Himalaya model. It is named for the tenth highest mountain in the world. It represents Lip's dressier range. 

Per Lip:

ANNAPURNA - R26

Reach the peaks

In tribute to the achievement of the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who conquered the first peak over 8000 meters, the "Annapurna" collection was launched by Fred Lip in 1951, before being renamed Himalaya after the ascent of Everest in 1953. Today, LIP reintroduces this iconic watch featuring the R26 movement, combining a 39 mm polished stainless steel or PVD gold case with a black or silver dial. Water-resistant up to 50 meters, the Annapurna celebrates the golden age of mechanical watchmaking and positions itself as a classic prestige piece dedicated to adventurers.

This particular model is available in three versions - the black dial model that Lip was kind enough to let me run around the block with, and two white sunburst dial models (one with a stainless steel case, the other is stainless with a gold PVD finish).

Lip was kind enough to let me choose which to review, and I opted for the black dial model. A quick note, not the easiest to photograph, but a striking time keeper nonetheless.

So I will first give you my (admittedly biased) impressions of the Lip Annaupurna. I am at once reminded of when Nomos first came on the scene. It was a nice watch, the finishing was good, and it was affordable. Moreover? It was different. And apparently I am not the only one with that feeling. Lip sent 2 each of the new collections and the feedback was a resounding yes from visitors to the HYPE in NYC a few weeks back. I suspect Lip will have a bright future in the coming years.

Now back to the watch itself - it is very comfortable and with a substantial (but not overwhelming) 39 mm case. The finishing is smooth and precise. The dial is pleasantly formatted and legibility is top-notch. The only thing I would possibly change is the location of the date, or modify the number 3. But this is just one person's opinion ; )

The setting is precise and the hand-winding solid. The crown is tactile without being rough.

The strap is leather, with a 20 mm lug width. The buckle is pleasantly shaped, bearing the Lip logo. The strap has a quick release spring bar system, so with luck Lip will offer other strap options - or you can of course purchase other options to swap out.

The movement is Lip's new endeavor, per Lip -
Movement: mecanic automatic
Reference movement: R26D
Automatic mechanical movement.
Frequency: 21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 21.
Accuracy: -5/+10 sec/Day.
Power reserve (Mainspring after fully wound up): 42 hours.
Finishing: LIP custom decoration of the gear bridge and the oscillating weight.

So who is the watch for? If you are that guy (or gal) who goes to every watch meet up with a loupe, ready to quote chapter and verse every reference number and convinced that you know more than anyone else? This is not the watch for you. And what do I mean by that? Simply put, Watch Town, and the folks who populate it are not always the most interesting people in the room. You wanna' know who are the most interesting & intriguing people at any watch show or meet-up?

The romantics. 

What do I mean by that? Simply put, anyone with enough CHF, YEN, EURO, or even DOLLARS US can create watches and sell them. And that in no way makes what they create any more or less worthy than any other watch. But very few watches can collect, carry, and convey emotion. Very few can hit that visceral nerve where a watch goes beyond a mere timekeeper and transforms into a true time machine. These new Lip watches do just that.

Now as I said at the top of this - I am biased. I have made my way to Besançon three times over the past 10 years and am looking forward to even more visits to watch how Lip under its new-ish leadership will continue to grow and evolve. Lip, Besançon, and the Berard's are that magical combination that French watchmaking has been wanting and needed for far too long. Now that the stars have aligned, Lip is truly ready to regain its status as the watch of France - and beyond.

So how do you put a price tag on that? Well, I have good news for you - the asking price is not nothing, but also not anything to send you into shock -

€890.00

Tax included

Now that is the price in the EU. What that will translate into in terms of USD remains to be seen, but at today's exchange rate (per the XE app): $1,026.34 US.

Welcome Back MINILIP!

I am not able to be "neutral" about Lip. They are not as fancy as Audemars Piguet. They are not the official time keeper of the Olympics. And you will not (typically) get one ripped of your wrist at gunpoint unlike a certain brand bearing a crown on the dial...

With that said, I have made three trips to Besançon, France to learn as much as I can about the brand, and meet with the people there. And I am now a true devotee! 

For many years Lip was simply a brand. It made watches, some relating to a rich and fascinating history. But for the most part, up until a few years ago, before they moved back to their original home in Besançon, they were going through the motions.

Courtesy of Lip

I've said it here before, and I'll say it again - the Berards, most specifically Pierre-Alain, have not only rescued Lip. They are beginning to move it even further forward than it was during its heyday. You can market just about anything in terms of watches. But it takes a special person to look to the past, and resurrect things with not only a nostalgic look back, but to do so with a true understanding of what the public wants. 

The MINILIP was designed with a "younger demographic" in mind. It was meant to help children understand the time not only as hours, minutes, and seconds, but also to take into account AM and PM. With this new interpretation through quarter and half hours into the mix and you've got quite a time machine!

Courtesy of Lip

It is not a large watch, but a fun-sized 29 mm.

Courtesy of Lip

Best of all, it is very reasonably priced at €199.00!

Courtesy of Lip

And it is also available in a stainless case with white inner dial (above).

Having spent this past weekend in New York at the two big shows and seeing more than my fill of divers, pilot's watches, and other "tough guy time machines", this renewed offering from Lip is just what I needed to remind me about why I enjoy writing about watches!

Un grand merci, Lip!

You can read all of the pertinents here -

https://lip.fr/en/minilip/207-lip-minilip-671971

The Big Comeback - Lip

Over the past 8 years or so, I have been fortunate enough to witness something pretty special - the reformation of one of the most iconic brands in France. 

Now theologians might question my use of the word reformation to describe the very positive things happening at Lip. But I would beg to differ. One definition of reformation is -

The act or process of changing a religious, political, or societal institution for the better.

Lip is one of those rare entities that goes beyond a simple product category. Like Peugeot, Airbus, L'Oréal, and Michelin (to name just a few), it is interwoven not just in the French psyche, but is known around the world.

The Lip affair was a seismic event not just in watchmaking, and not just in France. It galvanized a group of seemingly different people who had one thing in common - they needed to come together and act, or they were going to lose their jobs. In 1973, Lip was about a heartbeat away from oblivion. Massive layoffs were looming, and if not for the drastic action of the workers, Lip would be a footnote today. 

 

Spoiler Alert - Lip survived and after more than a few ups and downs, including the indignity of being moved away from its historical home of Besançon, it has been gradually moved back to France's watch epicenter, and this is all thanks to the Berards, particular Pierre-Alain Berard in particular -

This past March, I made my third visit to Besançon and to Lip HQ. And what motivated this trip? 

This is the Lip T18 Original. As mentioned in previous stories here, the T18 is something that marks a brand new chapter in the evolution of Lip. It is the first step towards movement manufacturing returning to Besançon, and it seems fitting that the man who worked to bring Lip home is leading the way to moving Lip back more fully into the world of mechanical watch making.

So now that I have whetted your appetites, I encourage you to tune in to our next episode where we will go deeper into the T18, the city of Besançon, and Lip's role in its evolution.

The Big TV Titanium

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

I haven't been to Besançon for nearly four years. That is a situation I am going to have to remedy. This is the latest offering from the folks at Lip.

Courtesy of Lip

Roger Tallon saw the Portavia 111 portable television, and saw something more. 

He saw what would become the TV and Big TV.

Courtesy of Lip

That was another time, of course. Lip went through some not great times since the heady days of the original TV and Big TV.

Enter the Berards -

Lip is finally heading back to where it belongs, at the forefront of design. Although I did not receive a press release, my understanding is that Pierre-Alain Berard has been working on this new version of the Big TV for some time. And it has definitely been worth the wait.

Courtesy of Lip

This is a fairly fresh release, and is currently an "on request" item. It is priced at €899.00

Here are the pertinents, straight from Besançon:

Watch reference - 671657

Case
brushed titanium, dimensions 35 mm x 35 mm, thickness (glass included) 12 mm

Case Back
translucent revealing the functioning of its movement

Dial
black with white indexes, minute and hour hands, black and white second hand with luminova finish

Glass
sapphire

Strap
titanium

Buckle
titanium butterfly deployant

Movement
automatic MIYOTA 82S0

Weight
116g

Waterproof
50 meters

Warranty
2 years 

Made in France - Besançon