A Quick Review of the Lip Annapurna

 So, it would seem, time's up!

Courtesy of Lip

Now I have been holding onto a wee bit of a secret since March 2024. At that time I visited Lip in Besançon, and Pierre-Alain Berard shared with me that Lip was on the threshold of completing work on their new movement. Now he stressed, this was not meant to be a revolution in horology. It was meant to be a movement that would power what used to be referred to as the watch of the people (of France and possibly Belgium). So this movement would not be 100% original. It would be based upon pre-exisiting architecture, but with some new flourishes. It would be assembled, regulated, and cased in the Lip workshops in Besançon. He had been wearing a test model and with the promise that we were "off the record" shared with me the vision of what Lip was intending and where it was heading. 

Fast forward one year, and I met Pierre-Alain in Geneva and he showed me the three prototypes that would make up the new collection. Again, I had to keep it to myself, and was glad to do so.

So now, it seems, the new Lip Manufacture movements are here and powering three different models. The Nautic 666 (also known as the "Devil Diver"), the Type 14, and the Annapurna. 

Courtesy of Lip

Now the Lip movements have been out for a bit, and they have received the usual amount of scrutiny that you might expect. So if you're looking for a lot of feedback on technical aspects, I encourage you to seek other reviews. For me, Lip is a matter of feeling. Owing to that, and the fact that I hope to someday represent them in North America, I think it important to stress that any review I do of Lip can't really be objective. And I'm okay with that ; )

So some Lip naming background. The Annapurna is (to some extent) based on the Himalaya model. It is named for the tenth highest mountain in the world. It represents Lip's dressier range. 

Per Lip:

ANNAPURNA - R26

Reach the peaks

In tribute to the achievement of the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who conquered the first peak over 8000 meters, the "Annapurna" collection was launched by Fred Lip in 1951, before being renamed Himalaya after the ascent of Everest in 1953. Today, LIP reintroduces this iconic watch featuring the R26 movement, combining a 39 mm polished stainless steel or PVD gold case with a black or silver dial. Water-resistant up to 50 meters, the Annapurna celebrates the golden age of mechanical watchmaking and positions itself as a classic prestige piece dedicated to adventurers.

This particular model is available in three versions - the black dial model that Lip was kind enough to let me run around the block with, and two white sunburst dial models (one with a stainless steel case, the other is stainless with a gold PVD finish).

Lip was kind enough to let me choose which to review, and I opted for the black dial model. A quick note, not the easiest to photograph, but a striking time keeper nonetheless.

So I will first give you my (admittedly biased) impressions of the Lip Annaupurna. I am at once reminded of when Nomos first came on the scene. It was a nice watch, the finishing was good, and it was affordable. Moreover? It was different. And apparently I am not the only one with that feeling. Lip sent 2 each of the new collections and the feedback was a resounding yes from visitors to the HYPE in NYC a few weeks back. I suspect Lip will have a bright future in the coming years.

Now back to the watch itself - it is very comfortable and with a substantial (but not overwhelming) 39 mm case. The finishing is smooth and precise. The dial is pleasantly formatted and legibility is top-notch. The only thing I would possibly change is the location of the date, or modify the number 3. But this is just one person's opinion ; )

The setting is precise and the hand-winding solid. The crown is tactile without being rough.

The strap is leather, with a 20 mm lug width. The buckle is pleasantly shaped, bearing the Lip logo. The strap has a quick release spring bar system, so with luck Lip will offer other strap options - or you can of course purchase other options to swap out.

The movement is Lip's new endeavor, per Lip -
Movement: mecanic automatic
Reference movement: R26D
Automatic mechanical movement.
Frequency: 21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 21.
Accuracy: -5/+10 sec/Day.
Power reserve (Mainspring after fully wound up): 42 hours.
Finishing: LIP custom decoration of the gear bridge and the oscillating weight.

So who is the watch for? If you are that guy (or gal) who goes to every watch meet up with a loupe, ready to quote chapter and verse every reference number and convinced that you know more than anyone else? This is not the watch for you. And what do I mean by that? Simply put, Watch Town, and the folks who populate it are not always the most interesting people in the room. You wanna' know who are the most interesting & intriguing people at any watch show or meet-up?

The romantics. 

What do I mean by that? Simply put, anyone with enough CHF, YEN, EURO, or even DOLLARS US can create watches and sell them. And that in no way makes what they create any more or less worthy than any other watch. But very few watches can collect, carry, and convey emotion. Very few can hit that visceral nerve where a watch goes beyond a mere timekeeper and transforms into a true time machine. These new Lip watches do just that.

Now as I said at the top of this - I am biased. I have made my way to Besançon three times over the past 10 years and am looking forward to even more visits to watch how Lip under its new-ish leadership will continue to grow and evolve. Lip, Besançon, and the Berard's are that magical combination that French watchmaking has been wanting and needed for far too long. Now that the stars have aligned, Lip is truly ready to regain its status as the watch of France - and beyond.

So how do you put a price tag on that? Well, I have good news for you - the asking price is not nothing, but also not anything to send you into shock -

€890.00

Tax included

Now that is the price in the EU. What that will translate into in terms of USD remains to be seen, but at today's exchange rate (per the XE app): $1,026.34 US.

The Type20 Flymaster

From Auricoste -

Courtesy of Auricoste

For my fellow watch lovers in the lower 48 - and possibly even further afield...

Allow me to either introduce, or reacquaint you with Auricoste!  Okay, you ask - just who or what is Auricoste? Auricoste started out way back in 1854. Over time, Auricoste developed into one of the most notable providers of purpose built time keeping instruments - including watches ; )

This is the Type20 Flymaster. And yes, there have been plenty of Type 20s released, but this one rings true to me.

Courtesy of Auricoste

This chronograph is available direct from the brand. For those of you wanting to see on in person? You will need to grab your passport and hop on over to France. But considering that you can avail yourself of all of the wonderful things in  France during your shopping trip? Count me in!

Courtesy of Auricoste

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

Dubois Dépraz
42021 DD automatic movement / 57 Jewels
28600 Vibrations/hour
42-hour power reserve
Geneva striped weight
Circular graining of the bridges and the plate

CASE

Diameter 39.5 mm
Thickness 14
mm Bidirectional 12H bezel DLC-treated steel
Incabloc anti-shock protection system
Smooth steel pusher
Screwed steel back
Water resistance 50 m

GLASS

Hesalite glass (prevents glass breakage)

DIAL

Numerals and hands coated with super Luminova (for optimal readability)
Black dial

Production: numbered in limited edition

The TYPE 14

From Lip!

Courtesy of Lip

This represents the first offering from the Besançon based brand to feature the new Caliber R26 -

Courtesy of Lip

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41 mm in diameter. It features a triangular marker that rotates inside bezel and can be adjusted via the second screw down crown.

Courtesy of Lip

The TYPE 14 is water resistant to 100 meters.

Courtesy of Lip

The strap is nubuck, and features quick change springs!

And this underscores the seriousness and sincerity of Pierre-Alain and the team at Lip as they steadily move forward not only reviving a once great brand, but moving it even further ahead!

And yes, I am a little biased ; )

Here are the pertinents -

Case: round brushed 316L stainless steel
Dimensions: 41 mm
Lug width: 20 mm
Bezel: external notched and internal bidirectional rotating with triangular index
Functions:

Glass: slightly domed sapphire with double-sided anti-reflective treatment

Waterproofness: 100 meters

Case back: screwed flat glass

Movement: self-winding mechanical
Movement reference: R26D
Frequency: 21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 21.
Accuracy: -5/+10 sec /Day.
Power reserve at full charge: 42 hours.
Finishing: personalized LIP decoration of the gear train bridge and oscillating weight.

3 hands: hours/minutes/seconds.
Date.
Stop seconds.

Dial: black textured tarmac style
Hands: luminescent silver
Index: Light beige luminescent Arabic numerals

Bracelet: camel nubuck leather
Quick release: yes
Clasp: exclusive LIP Manufacture pin buckle

Caliber R26: the new self-winding movement from LIP!

We're going to have a lot of Lip goodness today, but as I'm headed to the gym I for what promises to be an exhausting and brutal barbell class, I want to make sure we start at the beginning - the movement!

Courtesy of Lip

So before going any further, I have a confession to make. I have known about the development of this new movement and the exciting new watch that it is matched with. I got to see a preview a few weeks ago while in Switzerland and France and have been (im)patiently waiting to see the release and be able to share it!

The Caliber R26 is Lip's new, proprietary movement. So for anyone out there who had any doubt as to how seriously Pierre-Alain Berard and the team in Besançon are taking the revival of Lip, doubt no longer!

And as they've put all the work in, I thought I'd let them share the news in their own words -

Convinced that it had to restore the nobility of the oldest French brand still in operation, LIP's management decided to launch production of the LIP R26 in-house movement.

After three years of patient work carried out in collaboration with the SupMicroTech engineering school in Besançon, this self-winding mechanical movement, 70% of the cost price of which is French and more specifically from the Besançon region, equips a first family of watches designed to meet the needs of demanding users, whether on land, at sea or in the air.

Lip R26

Technical Characteristics

• Manufacture-made self-winding mechanical caliber, 26 mm in diameter and 5.92 mm thick.
• Clockwork brass treated by electroplating and surfaces with sandblasted finishes.
• Cost price 70% French.
• Design, assembly and adjustment carried out in-house in Besançon.
• LIP custom decoration of the gear train bridge and oscillating weight: laser carbonization of the LIP letters. Hexagonal screws for the oscillating weight, gear train bridges and balance wheel
• Setting of rubies in the LIP Manufacture workshops in Besançon.
• Regulating group oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour.
• 42 hours of power reserve on full charge.
• Accuracy: from 5 seconds late to 10 seconds early per day.
• Display: hours, minutes, central seconds, date window.
• Quick date adjustment using the winding crown.
• Stop second for more precise time setting.

So now, hopefully, I've got your attention!

Stay tuned, we've got a busy Saturday ahead of us as we roll this exciting news out!

Santa Claus Is Alive And Well! The Lip T18 Original

It seems that Santa might be working part-time in Besançon.

Courtesy of Lip

Just in time for that special friend, family member, or of course yourself ; )

Readers might remember that on my last visit to Besançon back in March, I had the opportunity to check out the new Lip T18 -

I did not hesitate, and I put my marker down for one. Lucky me, as that version flew off the shelves in record time and I was the lucky owner of 180 / 180. For those of you who weren't fortunate enough to get one, it seems that Santa Claus might have sensed your disappointment on missing out the first go-round and spoke with team Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

You have two more bites at the apple! Two new versions of the T18 Original. The first version features a two tone (technically 3 with the gold tone indices) dial, and a tan ostrich strap.

Courtesy of Lip

The second version differs in that the indices are silver toned, and the watch is fitted with a darker ostrich strap.

The movement is of particular interest as it is a faithful reproduction of the original -

Courtesy of Lip

It is a unique piece of kit, with the majority of components sourced within hailing distance (France and Switzerland) and assembled in Besançon.

These two new versions of the T18 Original are available now, but if the last release is anything to go by, they are going to be gone in the blink of an eye, so if it's in your wheelhouse, don't dawdle!

The price is very fair for a watch like this - €1,990.00 tax included

Here are the pertinents -

Case - rectangular, polished & brushed stainless steel
Dimensions : 23.5mm x 41.5mm
Lug Width : 20 mm
Water Resistance : 3 atm
Weight : 58 grammes

Movement - Mechanical

Reference movement : t18 mecanique
Frequency: 21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 21.
Accuracy: -12/+12 sec/Day.
Power reserve (Mainspring after fully wound up): 40 hours.
Finishing: Côtes de Genève, pearling, spiral pattern.

The Seconde Française 19.24

From BEAUBLEU -

Courtesy of BEAUBLEU

The Seconde Française collection is a limited release - 888 pieces in total.

Courtesy of BEAUBLEU

It boasts a French made movement, and the watch as a whole is assembled in Paris.

Courtesy of BEAUBLEU

I will endeavor to get some more details and provide a longer piece on this brand, and its latest offerings. Stay tuned!

Until then, here are some of the pertinents -

The case is of stainless steel with a display back, measuring 39 mm in diameter, water resistant to 5 atmospheres.

The movement is Festina's, via France Ebauches: 

MANUFACTURE FRANCE EBAUCHECALIBER FE MOVEMENT - AUTOMATIC
POWER RESERVE - 46h
ACCURACY +7/-7 SEC.DAY

Reasonably priced at $1,326

The YEMA x Alain Silberstein Limited Edition

This just in -

Courtesy of YEMA

YEMA has teamed up with Alain Silberstein for his latest collaboration.

Limited to 500 pieces, this diver is priced at $3,900.

Courtesy of YEMA

The case is of titanium (DLC with a micro blasted finish), and measures 40 mm in diameter.

Courtesy of YEMA

Here are the pertinents -

CALIBER

Micro-Rotor Caliber Manufacture Morteau 20
28 800 A/h
Self winding with ball bearings rotor
70h power reserve
Hours, minutes, seconds
Daily rate of -3 /+7 seconds per day

BEZEL

Bi-directional internal rotating dive bezel

Luminescent 3D minute markers filled with Super-LumiNova

CASE & CRYSTAL

Material: Black DLC Grade 5 Titanium with microblasted finish
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 11mm
Lugs: 20mm
 
2.20 mm double domed sapphire crystal

DIAL & HANDS

Matt black dial in galvanic treatment and luminescent 3D hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova

Shiny red hour hand bordered with white Super-LumiNova

Yellow minute hand with satin finish and second hand in blue Berlac powder, both treated with Super-LumiNova 

BRACELET

2 premium FKM rubber straps (black and red burgundy)

Grade 5 titanium deployant clasp with a black DLC microblasted finish

CROWNS

Upper crown finished in blue Cerakote® ceramic coating

Screw-down crown in black DLC with microblasted finish

WATER RESISTANCE

20 BAR / 200 m / 660 feet

Why The Mach 2000 Matters

I am constantly surprised by what is remembered as iconic. And with rumors running high that Lip might be returning to the North American market, I am ready to embrace the future while reveling in the past. And the best part about the Mach 2000? It is here, now!

Courtesy of Lip

The Mach 2000 is the very first watch that many watch fans identify Lip with. Needless to say, Lip has a deeeeeeeep catalog, but with that said, for €449.00 it is an affordable piece of Lip, and dare I say it, French watch making iconography.

Lip, and French watch making writ large were at the forefront of innovation in watch making. They embraced quartz well in advance of the rest of Switzerland. And in fairness, as several people have stated - if quartz was a technology available to Abraham-Louis Breguet, he probably would have embraced it.

So for those of you ready to reach out and grab a piece of watch making, and design history, you can grab it direct from Lip!

Including €0.02 e

Something a bit special...

From Pequignet -

This is the Royale Saphir in Amber Yellow. I had the opportunity to check this out in person during my visit last month to Pequignet HQ in Morteau, France. Pequignet is quite well known for the Royale Saphir collection, and their white dial versions are what most people think of when they think of Pequignet. But me? Well, let's just say that I am not a vanilla kinda' guy (more pistachio, in fact), and I don't think I'm a sheep ; )

Naaaaaaaaah!

The Royale Saphir comes in a stainless steel case, with sapphire crystals front and back. The movement is the eponymous Calibre Royal. The complications include large date, day, power reserve, and moon phase indication.

The date is available in both French, and English. 

Now I realize that yellow (or even "amber yellow") might not be your jam, but this one really speaks to me. My first serious mechanical watch was one of the Omega Speedmaster Schumacher models in yellow. I still miss that watch! Maybe it's just unfulfilled fantasies about winning the Tour de France? But for whatever reason, this watch is calling out to me.

The case measures 42 mm in diameter 12.3 mm in thickness, and is water resistant to 5 ATM. So don't go all "Aquaman" while wearing it!

You can read all about it here -

Pequignet Royale Saphir Amber Yellow

It is a priced at 10.800,00 € TTC

Spending Time with the Pequignet Concorde

So after a fun-filled few weeks, it's time for the Pequignet Concorde to wing its way home.

So let's start off with the vital statistics. The Concorde is Pequignet's take on an integrated bracelet watch. It is available in either a 36 mm and 40 mm case size. It is available in several color ways including green, pink, charcoal grey, gold, two different silver versions, and of course the blue dial above. The technical specifications, per Pequignet:

Case

316L polish, satin finish stainless steel
Crown with embossed « Fleur-de-Lys » logo

Details of the dial

Blue Navy
Polish steel hours and minutes’ hands,
Super Luminova TC1 (blue),
polish steel seconds’ hand
Large date display at 3.00

Details of the movement

Calibre Initial®
Dual direction winding
Frequency of 4Hz (28,800 Alt./h)
21 jewels
Stop second
Pierced oscillating weight with snailing decoration and embossed
« Fleur-de-Lys » logo.

Case thickness (in mm)

9.25

Waterproofing (ATM)

10

Back of case

Secured by 6 screws, sapphire opening on the movement

Power reserve time

65 hours

My test drive was with the 40 mm version in blue. 

The Concorde is an extremely easy to wear, comfortable watch. the squared / cushion style case sat quite well on my wrist, much of this is owing to the thickness - 9.25 mm.

Yes, it certainly has presence, but it is not a wrist-bound man-hole cover either.

The clasp is a butterfly style, operating with two push pieces. It creates a seamless closure, not bumps, buckles, etc. to sit out and snag your shirt sleeve ; )

The case finish work is solid, and this attention to detail carries through from the case, to the bracelet, and to the crown. Speaking of which, the crown is incredibly smooth to operate, the hand winding is buttery soft and smooth - and yes that is a good thing.

And finally, as this is Pequignet who are more than just a little famous for their in-house movements, let's talk about what's under the hood -

The Concorde utilizes Pequignet's  Calibre Initial®. This is a lovely movement offering hours, minutes, seconds and the date. The execution and finishing level are beyond reproach, and the timekeeping was spot-on. I experienced no deviations of any significance wither plus or minus. But in addition, I was quite impressed with the power reserve. I went two days without wearing over two days, and it was bang-on. Now it is worth noting that the advertised power reserve is 65 hours. With that said, Mileage often varies on these things once you get beyond 36 hours. I will also note that I made no special efforts to fully wind the watch, so i was pleasantly surprised when we were well into the sixtieth hour and no measurable loss or gain in time.

Courtesy of Pequignet

So now, to the bottom line - how much is this wrist bound bijoux going to set you back?

The Concorde's suggested retail price is 4,000 Euros. The 36 mm version is slightly less at 3,800 Euros. This does put the Concorde into some competition in terms of what else is out there at this price point. But I think it holds its own given what you get for your money. And in fairness, it is highly unlikely you will run into anyone at the next watch collector gathering wearing a Pequignet.

So overall? I would say you could do a lot worse, and you are unlikely to find an integrated bracelet piece at the quality level, with an in-house movement at this price point. The challenge will be finding a retail partner as Pequignet's distribution is not the largest in the world, but with that said you can order direct from the brand at https://pequignet.com/