The YEMA x Alain Silberstein Limited Edition

This just in -

Courtesy of YEMA

YEMA has teamed up with Alain Silberstein for his latest collaboration.

Limited to 500 pieces, this diver is priced at $3,900.

Courtesy of YEMA

The case is of titanium (DLC with a micro blasted finish), and measures 40 mm in diameter.

Courtesy of YEMA

Here are the pertinents -

CALIBER

Micro-Rotor Caliber Manufacture Morteau 20
28 800 A/h
Self winding with ball bearings rotor
70h power reserve
Hours, minutes, seconds
Daily rate of -3 /+7 seconds per day

BEZEL

Bi-directional internal rotating dive bezel

Luminescent 3D minute markers filled with Super-LumiNova

CASE & CRYSTAL

Material: Black DLC Grade 5 Titanium with microblasted finish
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 11mm
Lugs: 20mm
 
2.20 mm double domed sapphire crystal

DIAL & HANDS

Matt black dial in galvanic treatment and luminescent 3D hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova

Shiny red hour hand bordered with white Super-LumiNova

Yellow minute hand with satin finish and second hand in blue Berlac powder, both treated with Super-LumiNova 

BRACELET

2 premium FKM rubber straps (black and red burgundy)

Grade 5 titanium deployant clasp with a black DLC microblasted finish

CROWNS

Upper crown finished in blue Cerakote® ceramic coating

Screw-down crown in black DLC with microblasted finish

WATER RESISTANCE

20 BAR / 200 m / 660 feet

Royale Paris 2024

It would seem that Paris is (as is often the case) inspiring passion and creativity this summer -

Courtesy of Pequignet

Before we go any further, if you are unfamiliar with the song made famous by Joe Dassin, allow me to treat you to a modernized take. Ironically, a song about Paris, France, romance and everything else particularly awesome in life was originally charted by a young man born in Brooklyn, who studied at the University of Michigan and might have had a possible career as an author having won a prize for fiction as an undergraduate in Ann Arbor. And although I am a traditionalist, I have to say that this updated version of Les Champs-Elysées from Pamplamoose (best band name EVER!) is the shit that killed Elvis!  You're welcome! 

But back to watches -

Pequignet had a special treat up their sleeves to help celebrate France and Paris in particular. 

Courtesy of Pequignet

This is the Royale Paris 2024 - LIMITED EDITION. It is based on the Royale Paris. The functions include hours, minutes, small seconds located in the lower right quarter, power reserve in the lower left quarter, and a wonderfully legible large date just between 12 o'clock and the center of the dial. And as a special flourish? The day is in blue, the dates in white and red.

Courtesy of Pequignet

The case back is another homage, with La tour Eiffel (that's Eiffel Tower to you) etched in pride of place.

This new release is limited to 33 pieces.

And is priced at 7,700,00 € TTC

Here are some of the pertinents, straight from the folks in Morteau -

Case:

Steel, polished finish with polished/satin finish caseband
Crown with embossed "Fleur-de-Lys" logo Bezel secured with screws

Dial and Hands:

Opaline white
Hands in polished steel
Large date display and jumping hours
Date display blue-white-red
Power reserve at 8.00
Small second at 3.30

Movement:
Calibre Royal®
Frequency of 21.600 Alt/h
88-hour Power reserve
39 jewels
Sunray and rhodium oscillating weight 

Something a bit special...

From Pequignet -

This is the Royale Saphir in Amber Yellow. I had the opportunity to check this out in person during my visit last month to Pequignet HQ in Morteau, France. Pequignet is quite well known for the Royale Saphir collection, and their white dial versions are what most people think of when they think of Pequignet. But me? Well, let's just say that I am not a vanilla kinda' guy (more pistachio, in fact), and I don't think I'm a sheep ; )

Naaaaaaaaah!

The Royale Saphir comes in a stainless steel case, with sapphire crystals front and back. The movement is the eponymous Calibre Royal. The complications include large date, day, power reserve, and moon phase indication.

The date is available in both French, and English. 

Now I realize that yellow (or even "amber yellow") might not be your jam, but this one really speaks to me. My first serious mechanical watch was one of the Omega Speedmaster Schumacher models in yellow. I still miss that watch! Maybe it's just unfulfilled fantasies about winning the Tour de France? But for whatever reason, this watch is calling out to me.

The case measures 42 mm in diameter 12.3 mm in thickness, and is water resistant to 5 ATM. So don't go all "Aquaman" while wearing it!

You can read all about it here -

Pequignet Royale Saphir Amber Yellow

It is a priced at 10.800,00 € TTC

Spending Time with the Pequignet Concorde

So after a fun-filled few weeks, it's time for the Pequignet Concorde to wing its way home.

So let's start off with the vital statistics. The Concorde is Pequignet's take on an integrated bracelet watch. It is available in either a 36 mm and 40 mm case size. It is available in several color ways including green, pink, charcoal grey, gold, two different silver versions, and of course the blue dial above. The technical specifications, per Pequignet:

Case

316L polish, satin finish stainless steel
Crown with embossed « Fleur-de-Lys » logo

Details of the dial

Blue Navy
Polish steel hours and minutes’ hands,
Super Luminova TC1 (blue),
polish steel seconds’ hand
Large date display at 3.00

Details of the movement

Calibre Initial®
Dual direction winding
Frequency of 4Hz (28,800 Alt./h)
21 jewels
Stop second
Pierced oscillating weight with snailing decoration and embossed
« Fleur-de-Lys » logo.

Case thickness (in mm)

9.25

Waterproofing (ATM)

10

Back of case

Secured by 6 screws, sapphire opening on the movement

Power reserve time

65 hours

My test drive was with the 40 mm version in blue. 

The Concorde is an extremely easy to wear, comfortable watch. the squared / cushion style case sat quite well on my wrist, much of this is owing to the thickness - 9.25 mm.

Yes, it certainly has presence, but it is not a wrist-bound man-hole cover either.

The clasp is a butterfly style, operating with two push pieces. It creates a seamless closure, not bumps, buckles, etc. to sit out and snag your shirt sleeve ; )

The case finish work is solid, and this attention to detail carries through from the case, to the bracelet, and to the crown. Speaking of which, the crown is incredibly smooth to operate, the hand winding is buttery soft and smooth - and yes that is a good thing.

And finally, as this is Pequignet who are more than just a little famous for their in-house movements, let's talk about what's under the hood -

The Concorde utilizes Pequignet's  Calibre Initial®. This is a lovely movement offering hours, minutes, seconds and the date. The execution and finishing level are beyond reproach, and the timekeeping was spot-on. I experienced no deviations of any significance wither plus or minus. But in addition, I was quite impressed with the power reserve. I went two days without wearing over two days, and it was bang-on. Now it is worth noting that the advertised power reserve is 65 hours. With that said, Mileage often varies on these things once you get beyond 36 hours. I will also note that I made no special efforts to fully wind the watch, so i was pleasantly surprised when we were well into the sixtieth hour and no measurable loss or gain in time.

Courtesy of Pequignet

So now, to the bottom line - how much is this wrist bound bijoux going to set you back?

The Concorde's suggested retail price is 4,000 Euros. The 36 mm version is slightly less at 3,800 Euros. This does put the Concorde into some competition in terms of what else is out there at this price point. But I think it holds its own given what you get for your money. And in fairness, it is highly unlikely you will run into anyone at the next watch collector gathering wearing a Pequignet.

So overall? I would say you could do a lot worse, and you are unlikely to find an integrated bracelet piece at the quality level, with an in-house movement at this price point. The challenge will be finding a retail partner as Pequignet's distribution is not the largest in the world, but with that said you can order direct from the brand at https://pequignet.com/

Revisiting One That Got Away...

From Pequignet -

Courtesy of Pequignet

I wanted to re-heat this one. I personally like it when a watch maker takes what is expected, and puts a fun twist on it. This one came around nearly 4 years ago now, but it still fascinates me to this day.

Now I realize, this is maybe not everyone's demitasse if espresso, but as I look at it - life is short. There are plenty black and white watches out there, but life is not always black and white, is it?

This is the Rue Royale Reference 9010433 FJ.

Pequignet is at once a known quantity and yet and still a mystery to a lot of watch folks out there. For many of us we think Pequignet de facto means moon phases, power reserve indicators and big dates.  Very formal, very uniform. And that's okay. Pequignet has established a fairly defined design language insofar as the layout of the watch dial and functions.  

But for those of us with a wild color itch to scratch, this little wrist bijoux is the horological equivalent of a colloidal oatmeal bath, followed by a generous application of Benadryl ointment and loose fitting t-shirt.  IT IS AMAZING!  And yes, it soothes that manic itch that some of us have for a wonderfully complicated watch with a bit of color, fun and quirkiness.  

Yes gentle reader, I REALLY WANTED THIS WATCH!

Although it is now firmly in the rearview mirror, it does show that Pequignet may still have a few surprises up their sleeves ; )

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Calibre Royal movement
88-hours power reserve
Small second
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case-back
Date
Large red accurate moonphase at 6.00

CASE
316L Stainless steel case

DIAL
White dial, Luminova hands
White small second counter and power reserve counter

BRACELET
White alligator strap with blue stitching
Folding buckle with clasp

Limited edition

The ÉLYSÉE ATTITUDE - Limited Edition

From Pequignet -

Courtesy of Pequignet

This is a new, limited edition from the Morteau based manufacure.

Limited to 300 pieces, this special time machine is powered by the Calibre Initial®. This movement was released in 2021, conceived and made in France.

Courtesy of Pequignet

Here are the pertinents -

Case

316L polished steel
Crown with embossed "RF" logo

Details of the dial

Opaline white with "RF" logo
Rounded hands with stamped decoration in bluish stainless steel
Large date display at 3.00

Type of clasp

one link stainless buckle with engraved "RF" logo

Details of the movement

Calibre Initial®
Bidirection winding
Frequency of 4Hz (28800 Alt./h)
21 jewels
Stop second
Piercred oscillating weight with snailing decoration and embossed "RF" logo

Case thickness (in mm)

9.05

Waterproofing (ATM)

5

Back of case

Screwed with sapphire opening on the movement

Power reserve time

65 hours

A new manufacturer - from France!

This is not "new" news - but it is news that didn't really make it around the first time.  Joining the growing number of companies producing their own movements is Yonger & Bresson.

Courtesy of Yonger & Bresson

And in their own words -

The French watch brand, Yonger & Bresson, presents at Baselworld 2011 its first in-house movement entirely designed, developed and assembled in Morteau, main city of Doubs and homeland to the national watch-making industry. Designed in three versions in the year of its launch, it offers a new collection made up of 6 lines where each one carries the name of a castle in France. This automatic movement has been mounted on a timepiece called “Versailles”  where the technical know-how and aesthetic blends together in perfect harmony.

Courtesy of Yonger & Bresson

Case:    316L polished stainless steel

                case-back with 4 screws, engraved with multi-strikenY&B crown’s logo

                mineral glass and case-back  with inner/outer anti-glare treatment

                3 positions crown with rapid date corrector and stop seconds

                43 mm diameter

                50 meters water resistant

Dial:       black

                pyramidal shaped chromed index

                luminous hands 

                power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock

                small seconds at 6 o’clock

                date window at 3 o’clock

Functions:    hour, minute, small second, date, power reserve indicator           

Strap:             black croco pattern leather with butterfly buckle                        

Movement:         automatic mechanical movement, Caliber Ambre 1033 

                              frequency 28 800 p/hour (4 Hz)

                              31 jewels

                               jewels on dial and bridge side

                               45 hrs power reserve

                               bidirectional winding up system

                               Skeleton oscillating weight with black PVD treatment, 

                               engraved with multi-striken Y&B crown’s logo and caliber’s reference