Truth or Dare?

Sometimes you should pick truth...

Courtesy of Tudor

So a bit about me. I am the proud owner of a Tudor x Rowing Blazers Black Bay. I have caught myself contemplating selling a few pieces from the bank safety deposit box to fund a Tudor GMT model - most likely with a white / opaline dial. I have long been a fan of the reinterpretation of the Advisor, and the North Flag - two pieces that have moved out of the collection.

Suffice it to say, when it comes to Tudor, I like to think I have an open mind.

Courtesy of Tudor

The Cellini Moonphase is dope (that means good). And way back in the day Rolex offered up a now legendary moonphase watch.

Courtesy of Tudor

I applaud Tudor for looking to evolve, but in truth this is one that I just don't get... 

But to quote the Poet Laureate of New York City - Mr. Lou Reed:

"And just remember, different people have peculiar taste"

Some basics - the case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter. The movement is the Calibre T607-9. It is rated to be water proof to 100 meters.

On the positive side? Very reasonably priced at $2,800.

The Duobox TC Moonphase LE Chronometer

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

This is the latest from Sébastien Muller's brand. A moon phase chronograph with a COSC certified movement.

Courtesy of Brellum

Limited to 46 pieces, the case is of stainless steel and measures 48.1 mm in diameter and is 15.90 mm thick.

The movement is a COSC certified, listed as the Caliber BRELLUM BR-751-TCMP Automatic Chronometer (Valjoux 7751 base).

The watch is secured by a black alligator strap with fastened with a stainless steel deployment buckle.

Pricing - (incl. VAT* and shipping worldwide) approximatly:

USD 4090 / £3590* / €4190* /CHF 3690.-
* For £ and €, price is calculated with 20% VAT

Find all the information here -

Brellum Duobox TC Moonphase LE Chronometer

Something a bit special...

From Pequignet -

This is the Royale Saphir in Amber Yellow. I had the opportunity to check this out in person during my visit last month to Pequignet HQ in Morteau, France. Pequignet is quite well known for the Royale Saphir collection, and their white dial versions are what most people think of when they think of Pequignet. But me? Well, let's just say that I am not a vanilla kinda' guy (more pistachio, in fact), and I don't think I'm a sheep ; )

Naaaaaaaaah!

The Royale Saphir comes in a stainless steel case, with sapphire crystals front and back. The movement is the eponymous Calibre Royal. The complications include large date, day, power reserve, and moon phase indication.

The date is available in both French, and English. 

Now I realize that yellow (or even "amber yellow") might not be your jam, but this one really speaks to me. My first serious mechanical watch was one of the Omega Speedmaster Schumacher models in yellow. I still miss that watch! Maybe it's just unfulfilled fantasies about winning the Tour de France? But for whatever reason, this watch is calling out to me.

The case measures 42 mm in diameter 12.3 mm in thickness, and is water resistant to 5 ATM. So don't go all "Aquaman" while wearing it!

You can read all about it here -

Pequignet Royale Saphir Amber Yellow

It is a priced at 10.800,00 € TTC

Revisiting One That Got Away...

From Pequignet -

Courtesy of Pequignet

I wanted to re-heat this one. I personally like it when a watch maker takes what is expected, and puts a fun twist on it. This one came around nearly 4 years ago now, but it still fascinates me to this day.

Now I realize, this is maybe not everyone's demitasse if espresso, but as I look at it - life is short. There are plenty black and white watches out there, but life is not always black and white, is it?

This is the Rue Royale Reference 9010433 FJ.

Pequignet is at once a known quantity and yet and still a mystery to a lot of watch folks out there. For many of us we think Pequignet de facto means moon phases, power reserve indicators and big dates.  Very formal, very uniform. And that's okay. Pequignet has established a fairly defined design language insofar as the layout of the watch dial and functions.  

But for those of us with a wild color itch to scratch, this little wrist bijoux is the horological equivalent of a colloidal oatmeal bath, followed by a generous application of Benadryl ointment and loose fitting t-shirt.  IT IS AMAZING!  And yes, it soothes that manic itch that some of us have for a wonderfully complicated watch with a bit of color, fun and quirkiness.  

Yes gentle reader, I REALLY WANTED THIS WATCH!

Although it is now firmly in the rearview mirror, it does show that Pequignet may still have a few surprises up their sleeves ; )

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Calibre Royal movement
88-hours power reserve
Small second
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case-back
Date
Large red accurate moonphase at 6.00

CASE
316L Stainless steel case

DIAL
White dial, Luminova hands
White small second counter and power reserve counter

BRACELET
White alligator strap with blue stitching
Folding buckle with clasp

Limited edition

I've Been Hit by the KAAOS Hammer!

In a good way ; )

In the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit, I have written a bunch about Stepan Sarpaneva. From the time I first pushed my bloggy-wog out into the world, he has always been generous with his time, patient and more than accommodating. His Sarpaneva moon-phase watches have no equal, and I still hold out hope that I can convince him to do a Kalevala themed watch some day ; )

Now a bit about me, I am not fabulously wealthy. I do not see a watch that I fancy, and capriciously grab for my credit card, as much as I might want to. I make considered choices, and I save until I am able to make the purchase. And truth be told, I have not really seen much of anything that has turned my crank. 

Until now.

Courtesy of S.U.F Helsinki

This is the KAAOS KUURA. And to quote that other great commentator on watches, Cosmo Kramer from Seinfeld -

I know, that sounds like a lot of hyperbolic spouting from the most cynical commentator in Watch Town, but I stand by my statement.

Not unlike when chocolate's hyper-collision with peanut butter gave us the Reese's Peanut Butter Cup, the KAAOS field watches have filled a hole in my watch loving self that I did not know existed. I have always loved Stepan Sarpaneva's iconography, in particular his now eponymous moon -

Courtesy of Sarpaneva

And his watches are beyond beautiful. But going back to economics, while his Sarpaneva watches are absolutely worth every Euro (or Finn Marka), they are not necessarily within everyone's reach. Nor should they be ; ) 

But with that said, it is a wonderful thing when something you have obsessed about - a Sarpaneva moon phase watch - is suddenly within your means!

But more importantly, while the Sarpaneva moon and a moon phase indicator are nods to his namesake brand, the KAAOS remains true to the S.U.F ethos and identity. This is not a show-pony. It is a true field watch, something you could wear pretty much anywhere at any time.

Courtesy of S.U.F Helsinki

The KAAOS is available in 3 different dial colors with further options for the moon phase indication color. Purple (Kaarki) above. Black (Hiili) below -

Courtesy of S.U.F Helsinki

And my personal favorite, the white dialed Kuura with blue moon phase indicator -

Courtesy of S.U.F Helsinki

The blue indicator and hands on the white face reminds me of the Finnish flag, and takes me back to four of the happier years my wife and I spent overseas when we lived in Turku and Helsinki in the 90s.

If you are as intrigued as me, here are the pertinents, straight from downtown Helsinki -

TECHNICAL SPECS

Movement
Modified Swiss Soprod A10 Calibre, 11.5 lines, 28800 vph (4 Hz) - in-house phases of the moon complication
Mechanical Automatic winding
Hours, Minutes,Seconds and Phases of the Moon ( 29.5 days )
25 jewels
42 Hours power reserve
Rhodium plated, Perlage & Côtes de Genève Finishing
Every movement has been thoroughly checked, correctly oiled and regulated at our Helsinki Gable factory workshop

Case
Outokumpu Stainless Steel from Finland (SUPRA 316L/4435)
Case size: 38.7 mm
Case thickness: 9.4 mm
Lug to lug length: 46.4 mm
Water-resistant to 10 ATM
Open caseback

Dial
Frosted silver dial
Stepan Sarpaneva Scandi-noir typeform numerals in grey print
‘Railroad’ minutes track in grey print
Painted Superluminova indexes
Three color options for the moon phase indicator, hand painted with Superluminova: White, Blue or Orange
Polished Blued steel hands with Superluminova
Blued steel Lollipop design seconds hand with Superluminova

Strap
Leather: Black - Nordic elk
18mm Sarpaneva stainless steel pin buckle
Delivered with one additional Grassbay strap. Included custom engraved buckle. Made in partnership with our good friends at The Erika's Originals MN™ Strap
Lug width: 20 mm

$5,038.26
With taxes (24%)

$4,063.11 

without taxes.

The Arceau Grand Lune

From Hermès -

Courtesy of Hermès

This one is a bit special, and at least by Hermès typical pricing standards, is within realistic standards - $6,175

The Duobox LE.8 Chronometer

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

I am, to be honest, a huge fan of Brellum and pretty much everything that Sebastien Muller has done with his brand.

Courtesy of Brellum

This is the latest iteration of Brellum's (now) signature take on the chronograph. Unlike many brands out there both mighty and wee, you know a Brellum when you see one even without the text or logo. When I think of how long Brellum has actually been in business, it amazes me how clearly Mr. Muller has defined his brand and its flagship.

Courtesy of Brellum

This latest offering is a triple calendar moon phase, and it is perfect. The case is of stainless steel, and it measures 41.80mm in diameter. The movement is based on Valjoux's 7751. 

This Swiss piece of awesomeness is limited to 15 pieces TOTAL, so if this is in your wheelhouse, move sharpish!

The price is a VERY REASONABLE CHF 3'607.95, with delivery anticipated in early July.

Here is a full rundown of the pertinents -

Caliber -
BRELLUM BR-751-TCMP Automatic Chronometer (Valjoux 7751 base)

Certification -
Officially Chronometer certified movement (COSC)

Decoration -
Perlage, Geneva stripes, blue screws, numbered rotor from 1/15 to 15/15

Technology -
25 jewels, 28'800 A/h, 46 hours power reserve; Incabloc, Glucydur Balance, Nivarox Alloy Hairspring typ Anachron

Function -
Hours, Min., Sec., triple calendar (day, date, month), chronograph, day/night indicator, moon phase indicator

Case Material -
Stainless Steel 316L, DIN 1.4435, hardened with DLC anthracite coating

Dimension -
Diameter 41.80mm, thickness: 11.20mm without crystals, 15.80mm total

Crystal -
Box sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating

Dial -
Domed Anthracite Sunshine pattern dial, silver counters

Hands -
Hours and Minutes with luminous material (Superluminova)

Water resistance -
50m, 5ATM

Case back -
Exhibition stainless steel case back, DLC anthracite coated, numbered with box sapphire crystal and anti-reflection coating

Strap -
Black handmade leather strap with deployment buckle

The Slim d'Hermès Squelette Lune

From Hermès Horloger -

Courtesy of Hermès

Here are the pertinents -


CASE
Large Model (GM), ø 39.5 mm, round
Caseband and caseback in beadblasted grade 5 titanium (Ti 88%) Bezel in 950 platinum (≈ 11.49 g)
750 white gold crown and pusher
Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback

DIAL
Skeletonised
Black-gold sunburst flange and grey-transferred minutes track Blue PVD-coated hands

MOVEMENT
Ultra-thin H1953 Manufacture Hermes movement Mechanical self-winding movement, crafted in Switzerland

FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, double moon-phase at 6 o’clock

BUCKLE
Grade 2 titanium (Ti 99%) pin buckle, 17 mm

STRAP
Matt graphite alligator

Moonphase Monday - A Speedmaster Steel with Yellow Gold

From Omega -

Courtesy of Omega

Truth be told, this may be a unicorn.

It is listed on the Omega site as currently unavailable, i.e. contact a boutique to join the waiting list. And for all I know, it's discontinued or an as yet-to-be delivered model. Long story short, I am not on the Omega PR Christmas card list ; )

But I am discovering as I get older and keep writing this "bloggy-wog" that I am a bit contrarian. So it seems fitting that this (let's be honest) anomaly caught my eye. I have no doubt that it is not everybody's baby, but I kinda' dig it.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Biel/Bienne -

WATCH CASE & DIAL

Case: Steel - yellow gold Case Diameter: 44.25 mm Dial Colour: Grey

WATER RESISTANCE

10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet)

MOVEMENT

Calibre: Omega 9904

Self-winding chronograph with column wheel and Co- Axial escapement. Certified Master Chronometer, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss. Silicon balance-spring, 2 barrels mounted in series. Central hour, minute and chronograph seconds hands, small seconds hand, date indication by hand, 12- hour and 60-minute recorders and moonphase indication. Rhodium plated finish with Geneva waves in arabesque.

Power reserve: 60 hours

CRYSTAL

Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides

Moonphase Monday - The Lunar Chronograph

From Chronoswiss - 

Courtesy of Chronoswiss

Here are the pertinents -

Case

Material:
Stainless steel

Number of parts:
38

Case back:
Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal

Diameter:
41 mm

Height:
14.8 mm

Band width:
21 mm

Finish:
Partly polished, partly with satin finish

Bezel:
Polished screw-down bezel with side knurling and full thread. Curved, non-reflecting sapphire crystal.

Movement

Movement:
Caliber C. 755, automatic

Frequency:
4 Hz (28,800 A/h)

Power reserve:
Approx. 46 hours

Number of jewels:
25

Finish:
Polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with perlage

Rotor:
Skeletonized and rhodium-plated rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing

Dial

Dial material:
Guilloché-decorated, galvanic blue

Displays:
Central hours and minutes, small seconds, central chronograph seconds, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, analog date, moon phase

Design of hands:
Lacquered white, minute hand bent by hand

Shape of hands:
"Breguet Losange"

Moonphase Monday - The Lunascape in Sunburst Blue

With MeisterSinger -

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

Here are the pertinents -

Case

Stainless steel case with 6-screwed exhibition back
Diameter 40 mm
Height 12.0 mm

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

Movement

ETA 2836-2 with MeisterSinger moon phase module
Automatic
25 jewels
28800 Semioscillations per h – 4 Hz
Power reserve 38 h

Glass

Domed sapphire glass

Moonphase Mon... Make that Tuesday

Okay, I can't really blame it on COVID, but clearly my head was elsewhere when the day flipped from Sunday to Monday. So a day late but hopefully not a dollar short, it's Moonphase Monday with the
Horaire Chronographe from Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

Bucking the norms, this watch is (overall) slightly smaller than you might expect, measuring 38.7 mm in diameter, but you have to accommodate the 7751, hence a height of 13 mm.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Hours, minutes, month, date, day, chronograph, 24 hour scale and moon phase.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement:

• Automatic movement calibre ETA Valjoux 7751
• Functions: Indication of hours, minutes, small second, week day, date, chronograph, month, 24-hours, and moon phase.

Case:

• Material: Stainless steel 316L, corpus matt, polished bezel, inner-rotating bezel, screwed crown
• Diameter: 38,7 mm
• Height: 13 mm
• Glass: Sapphire crystal
• Case back: Screwed case back with mineral crystal
• Water resistant: 5 bar

Dial:

• Art: Black galvanized dial
• Numerals: White print, indexes with Superluminova
• Hands: Steel hands covered with Superluminova

Strap:

• Material: Leather
• Color: Black
• Width: 20 mm
• Buckle: Signed clasp

Moonphase Monday - The Fiftysix Complete Calendar 18K 5N Pink Gold

From Vacheron Constantin -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Okay, it bears mentioning that I realize that for many readers - this writer included, the idea of owning a watch from Vacheron is akin to drinking water from the moon. But I also believe that she watches (not brands, but individual watches) are not unlike a singular work of art that you wear on your wrist. This is not "payola fluff". If I am completely honest, Vacheron makes some watches that frankly offend my sense of aesthetics. Eric Ripert is a wonderful chef and I truly enjoyed his memoir - 32 Yolks.  But the American from the Historiques collection for all its pedigree simply is not my jam, no matter how fondly he recounts acquiring it.  And then again, it also illustrates that we all have to dance to our own drumbeat ; )

But back to the Fiftysix Complete Calendar -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

It is a beautifully executed design, and despite it costing more than my car, if money were no object I would be heading to the closest Vacheron boutique to pick one out.

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

• Material

  18K 5N pink gold

• Size (mm)

  40 mm

• Thickness (mm)

  11.60

• Caseback

  Transparent caseback, sapphire glass

• Water-resistance (bar)   

  3

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

MOVEMENT

• Reference

  2460 QCL/1

• Energy

  Self-winding

• Size (mm)

  29 (11 ¼''')

• Thickness (mm)

  5.4

• Number of parts

  308

• Number of jewels

  27

• Power reserve (hours)

  40

• Frequency

  28800 v.p.h. (4 Hz)

• Indications

  Hours, Minutes, Second in center, day of the week in apperture, stop seconds device, month in aperture, hand-type date, precision moon phase

• Certification

  Hallmark of Geneva

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

Moonphase Monday - The Slimline Moonphase Manufacture

From Frederique Constant -

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

The case measures 42 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel. The movement is Frederique Constant's FC-705, which is automatic and boasts 42 hours of power reserve.

But as the title suggests, Mondays are for moonphase features and the Slimline Moonphase has one that I particularly appreciate. Big and easy to read at 6 o'clock, with a date indicator incorporated.

Here are the penitents -

MOVEMENT: 

FC-705 AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT. 26 JEWELS, 28'800 ALT/H AND 42 POWER RESERVE, WITH HOURS, MINUTES, MOONPHASE, DATE BY HAND.

CASE: 

STAINLESS STEEL CASE, DIAMETER OF 42MM WITH CONVEX SAPPHIRE AND 2-O-RINGS CROWN, HEIGHT 11.3MM. WATER-RESISTANT TO 3 ATM.

DIAL: 

SILVER, CURVED, APPLIED SILVERED INDEXES.

STRAP: 

ALLIGATOR STRAP.

Until next time - don't let the moon phase you!

Moonphase Monday - The Royale Saphir

From Pequignet -

Courtesy of Pequignet

This one is very limited (10 pieces only) and  definitely belongs in the "Go Big, or Go Home" category.  Pequignet makes a lot of beautiful, classic watches with more traditional moon phase functions. But this one embraces a more modern design aesthetic without losing its "Pequignet sais quoi". The case is of Rose Gold 5N, and the movement is Pequignet's Calibre Royal EPM01 which boasts a very impressive 88 hours of power reserve. Hours, minutes, seconds (via sub-dial at 4 o'clock), day, date and a seductively designed moon phase indicator at 6 o'clock.

This fascinating time machine can be purchased from the team at Grenon's in Rhode Island who (and yes, I am biased) are the perfect representatives for Pequignet here in the US. For those of you outside of the lower 48, you can contact your local/regional retail partner or contact Pequignet directly.

The Frederique Constant Moonphase Manufacture

Exclusive to Fratello Watches -

Courtesy of Fratello Watches

So, it is important, right off the bat to make a very clear statement.  I do not read much from the other outlets, and by and large I am not a fan of media outlets morphing into full-blown retail purveyors.  But as it comes to Fratello and Frederique Constant?  I have to be honest that I have a soft spot for both of them, I have a lot of respect for Robert-Jan Broer and his team, and I personally think that Frederique Constant's head of communications - Yasmina Pedrini, is a super star.  More importantly?  This is one watch, this is not a full-blown online retail venture.  Yes, there were some interesting discontinued Omega watches, but I never feel that I am reading a story and being gently led down the path to hand over my credit card in the next story frame.

Courtesy of Fratello Watches

But let's get back to the watch.  It is exclusive to Fratello, has a stunning grey dial which is a true departure from what you would normally expect - blue, black or bright silver/white.  It is just that little bit different, and that makes it special.

Courtesy of Fratello

The movement is the FC-712 Manufacture automatic caliber.

Hours, minutes, seconds, date and moonphase.  There is a lot to admire in this one.

Limited to 29 pieces.

Here are the pertinents, direct from Fratello -

WATCH SPECIFICATIONS

Model

FC-712MGNL4H6

Dial

​Grey color dial with white printed roman numeral indexes. ​​​Hand polished white hands. ​​​Moonphase at 3 o’clock and date counter at 9 o’clock.

Case Material

​Polished stainless steel 3-parts case. 42 mm diameter. Convex sapphire crystal. ​​​See-through case back Water-resistant up to 5 ATM.

Movement

FC-712 Manufacture automatic caliber with date and moonphase adjustable by the crown. Perlage & circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement. 28 jewels, 38 hours power reserve, 28’800 alt/h

Strap

Blue croco leather strap

Warranty

2 year international warranty included

Lunations

From Sarpaneva -

Courtesy of Sarpaneva

This is the latest creation from Stepan Sarpaneva.  It represents a fairly big step in what has already been an impressive career.  

Courtesy of Sarpaneva

The movement?

• Sarpaneva in-house Moonment® calibre, 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
• Mechanical manual-winding
• 20 jewels
• 60-hour power reserve

The case is as follows -

• High-grade Outokumpu Supra 316L/4435 stainless steel case, available also in 18K red gold

For those of you unfamiliar, Outokumpo is steel manufacturer based in Helsinki, but born in Kuusjärvi, and if the company's website is to believed, Outokumpo was a hill where copper was found, bringing into creation, the company.  The name, apparently, means "Strange Hill".  I kinda' dig that!

• 42 mm in diameter, 9,8 mm in thickness
• Front and back sapphire crystals with multi anti-reflective coating on the inside
• Two-part crown at 4 o’clock with signature Sarpaneva moon face motif
• Water-resistant to 5 ATM

Courtesy of Sarpaneva

The Dial?

• Two-part stainless steel skeleton dial in various DLC-coated finishes
• Indexes in various Swiss Super-Luminova® emission colours
• Two-tone hands in Rhodium, Flame Blue, Red Gold or Pitch Black with optional Swiss Super-Luminova® coating on the backside (Mondaine® pat. pend.)
• Laser-machined and hand-finished optical fibre moon face relief, moon illumination powered by RC Tritec’s Lumicast®

Courtesy of Sarpaneva

All secured with a leather strap.