Moonphase Mon... Make that Tuesday

Okay, I can't really blame it on COVID, but clearly my head was elsewhere when the day flipped from Sunday to Monday. So a day late but hopefully not a dollar short, it's Moonphase Monday with the
Horaire Chronographe from Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

Bucking the norms, this watch is (overall) slightly smaller than you might expect, measuring 38.7 mm in diameter, but you have to accommodate the 7751, hence a height of 13 mm.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Hours, minutes, month, date, day, chronograph, 24 hour scale and moon phase.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement:

• Automatic movement calibre ETA Valjoux 7751
• Functions: Indication of hours, minutes, small second, week day, date, chronograph, month, 24-hours, and moon phase.

Case:

• Material: Stainless steel 316L, corpus matt, polished bezel, inner-rotating bezel, screwed crown
• Diameter: 38,7 mm
• Height: 13 mm
• Glass: Sapphire crystal
• Case back: Screwed case back with mineral crystal
• Water resistant: 5 bar

Dial:

• Art: Black galvanized dial
• Numerals: White print, indexes with Superluminova
• Hands: Steel hands covered with Superluminova

Strap:

• Material: Leather
• Color: Black
• Width: 20 mm
• Buckle: Signed clasp

In The Pocket - The Héritage Minier

From Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

My first "real" watch was a gold plated Wyler pocket watch that is currently with the watchmaker enjoying a spa vacation (the first service interval it has had in it's 40+ year life), so I've always had a soft spot for non-wrist born timekeepers. But all too often, the modern iterations are either ridiculously expensive, or just plain cheap.

Courtesy of Nivrel

So leave it to Nivrel to offer something right in the Henki Wheelhouse! This is the Héritage Minier, a modern update to a classic pocket watch.

A 45 mm case in - wait for it - SILVER!!! This is the shit that killed Elvis!

The movement is a nice and reliable 6497-1. Apparently watches similar to this were presented to miners with a hammer and pick engraved on the back with the words (if Google Translate is anything to go by) Good Luck.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Best of all is the price - under 850 Euros.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement:

• ETA 6497-1
• 17 jewels, Swiss anchor escapement, 18.000 A/h, 46 hours power reserve when fully wound up
• Swiss Made
• Functions: Indication of hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock

Case:

• Material: Solid sterling silver
• Diameter: 45 mm
• Height: 13 mm
• Case back: Engraved back cover Case

Dial:

• Art: Clous de Paris Guilloche
• Numerals: Black Roman numerals
• Hands: Black Breguet style hands

A Visceral Sucker Punch

From Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

Funny thing, I woke up this morning thinking back on "the one that got away".  Now by definition, I don't view that as a watch that I might have owned, but no longer do.  Rather, one that I nearly pulled the trigger on, and for whatever reason, never followed-through on. For me, Nivrel's Replique Manuelle is that watch.  

Nivrel has always made a larger, hand-wound watch, but the case styles, dial formats, etc. had shifted and morphed a bit over the years. And now, it seems that the universe has spun back in my favor!

Courtesy of Nivrel

So why this one?  Well, for a style that I think often gets short shrift, this is something a bit special.

Courtesy of Nivrel

The hands, described by Nivrel as  losange. For most similar watches (let's call it field-watch meets casual/formal - think Eberhard Traversetolo or Panerai's Radiomir).  Bottom line, while the other two cost a WHOLE LOT MORE, and the Radiomir can keep on ticking down to the deepest briny depths, I find it highly unlikely that you'll listen to your inner Steve Zissou and "go deep" wearing a watch with an alligator strap. 

Shamelessly borrowed from the World-Wide infoweb

A side note from myself, the Executive Publisher (Tallulah) and Editor in Chief (Sabrina), we are making a push here at Tempus Fugit to encourage watch brands, and watch consumers to consider alternatives to crocodile and alligator straps.  Stay tuned!

Okay, let's get back on topic!  Apart from the hands, the dial layout is truly appealing.  It is almost soothingly reassuring. The sub second is slightly concave, which adds a lovely bit of depth.

But above all else? The color! Described by Nivrel as "Cream", I LOVE IT!  It is just that extra bit of different that really makes it special.

Now ultimately, we are all susceptible to marketing, and horological peer pressure. But that's another really cool thing about Nivrel - it's not obvious. And in a world where we're all being told what to like, it's really great when you find something that YOU like. 

Now obviously this might not be in your wheelhouse, but it absolutely speaks to me!

Here are the pertinents -

Movement:

• ETA 6497-1 elaboré
• Blued screws, Côtes circulaires, 17 jewels, Swiss anchor escapement, 18.000 A/h, 46 hours power reserve when fully wound up​
• Swiss Made
• Functions: Indication of hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock

Case:

• Material: Stainless steel 316L, satin-finished case with polished steel bezel
• Diameter: 44 mm
• Height: 13 mm
• Glass: Domed sapphire crystal
• Case back: Steel case back with mineral crystal
• Water resistant: 5 bar

Dial:

• Art: Cream-coloured dial
• Numerals: Arabic numerals and appliques with superluminova
• Hands: Losange-hands covered with superluminova

Strap:

• Material: Handmade vintage leather strap
• Color: Chocolate brown or black with white stitching
• Width: 22 mm
• Buckle: Signed buckle

The Replique Aviateur II

From Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

The case measures 40 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel.  The movement is ETA's 2824-2 automatic movement.  The dial is clear and extremely legible displaying hours, minutes and seconds.  

The Lemania Limited Edition

From Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

Although I have posted about this particular model previously, it is one that still calls to me.

40 mm stainless steel case with display back, this is a subtle stunner.  But what will draw many is embedded in the model 
name - Lemania.  Under the hood beats the Lemania 8810.  This is a wonderfully flat, self-winding movement with a pretty sexy provenance.  Previously known as the Longines L990, it was acquired by Lemania in the darkness before the dawn of the mechanical watch renaissance.  Limited to 30 pieces total, this is something special.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Nivrel -

Movement

Automatic movement caliber Lemania 8810, fine finishing, engraved rotor, double barrel.

Functions

Indication of hours, minutes, sweep second, and date.

Dial

Silver-coloured with sunburst guilloche, Arabic, applied numbers, applied indexes, luminous with Superluminova C3.

Hands

Losange-style, luminous with Superluminova C3.

Case

Case in steel 316L, sapphire crystal, stainless steel case back with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 5 bar. Diameter: 40 mm, Height: 7.4 mm.

Strap

Handmade leather strap in black or brown, NIVREL signature buckle.

Celebrating 80 Years!

NIVREL is celebrating their 80 year anniversary and to mark the occasion they are offering something special -

Courtesy of NIVREL

This is the NIVREL Jubilé III.  Extremely affordable at 599 Euros, this is a wonderfully understated time keeper.

It is available in three color versions - creme (above)

Black -

Courtesy of NIVREL

And white -

Courtesy of NIVREL

The case is stainless steel with a display back and measures 40 mm in diameter.  

Hours, minutes, seconds and date (at 6 o'clock).  

Courtesy of NIVREL

The movement is ETA's 2824-2.  

Courtesy of NIVREL

Here are the pertinents -

Movement

Automatic movement caliber ETA 2824-2.

Functions

Indication of hours, minutes, sweep second, and date.

Dial

Matt colored dial in white, black, or creme, printed indexes.

Hands

Black or white color.

Case

Case in steel 316L, anti-reflexive sapphire crystal, stainless steel case back with window, water-resistant to 5 bar. Diameter: 40 mm, Height: 10 mm.

Strap

Handmade leather strap in black or brown, NIVREL signature buckle.

The Deep Ocean Red

From Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

Coming in at 595 Euros (this price reflects 19% VAT) the Nivrel Deep Ocean Red represents a new, more affordable price point for their Deep Ocean Series.  

Courtesy of Nivrel

One of the keys to this lower price point is the use of the Miyota 9015.  It is interesting to see that more an more watch brands are moving away from more costly "Swiss" movements towards what is proving to be a very strong, robust and dependable movement from Miyota.  

The Deep Ocean Red boasts a water resistance of 50 bars or 500 meters.  Owing to this, the crown is a screw down type and the case features crown guards.

The case itself is of stainless steel, measuring 43 mm in diameter.  The crystal is sapphire, the case back is a solid stainless steel screw back type.  This is a watch for diving, hence no display back.

Courtesy of Nivrel

The hands are red with white lume, adding a great touch of visibility.  

Unidirectional diving bezel with aluminum insert.  The watch is secured with a stainless steel bracelet with deployment buckle and diving suit extension.

Here are the pertinents -

Reference:  N 147.001



Movement:
Citizen/Miyota 901542 hours when fully wound
25.6 mm in diameter,  3.9 mm tall
Hours, minutes, sweep second, and date 

Case:
Stainless steel 316L, black aluminum inlay with silver-colored numerals, 
screwed crown with protection, water-resistant to 50 bar
Diameter: 43 mm, Height: 10 mm
Sapphire Crystal; stainless steel case back


Dial:
Black with luminous numerals

Hands:
Red with white lame 

Bracelet:
Stainless steel with deployment buckle and strap extension 

Price:
595,- EUR  including 19% VAT

The Watch that Haunts my Dreams

Apparently great minds think alike!  I was meeting with team Nivrel at the Ramada this past Saturday and got to try on a watch that will probably drive me to insanity until I save the pennies to call it my own!

My comment to them was "This watch haunts my dreams!", at which Guido Grohmann burst out laughing and said:  "Those are EXACTLY the words that Watch U Seek's Bhanu Chopra used!"

Well, being thought half as eloquent as Bhanu is a very real compliment, so I'll take it ; )


But back to the watch -

42 mm of German stainless steel AWESOMENESS cases the ever-so-fantastic hand-wound Landeron 248.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Sapphire crystals front and back, alligator strap.

YOU KNOW YOU WANT THIS!

It Chimes!

There is something truly cool about repeaters.  And for those of you were worried that a wonderful complication would be forever out of your reach, don't worry.  The good folks of Nivrel have got you covered!

Courtesy of Nivrel

This is the Horaire Répétition Classique.  The repeater is activated by a button at the base of the watch at 6 o'clock. The movement is based on ETA's 2892-A2 and is equipped with a "repeater" module.

Thank you Nivrel!

Want to be a Watchmaker for a Weekend?

Well, the good folks at Nivrel have got you covered!

Courtesy of Nivrel

Here's the scoop, straight from the source -

In our watchmaking course and seminar, you will not only receive an insight into the fascinating world of a watchmaker: you will learn the basics about mechanical watches and their complications, about mechanical movements in detail, and to understand and build your individual NIVREL timepiece under the guidance of one of our master watchmakers! 

In our professional course room, each participant receives his own work bench with own tools and professional lighting. The courses are designed to provide maximum care of the participants and are therefore limited to a maximum of 5 participants per weekend. This ensures that there is always enough time for questions and answers for each participant during the seminar days and maximum technical assistance can be provided when building your watch.

On the first day of the seminar we dive deep into the tradition of the NIVREL company and the Kraemer jewelry store and take you on a journey to 1891 and back. Thus you will already know the basic principles of classical craftsmanship in the watch and jewelry industry and learn a lot about the working methods and techniques of our watchmakers and goldsmiths.

After the lunch break we will get down to serious business. We will deal with the technical design of mechanical movements and learn about different types of movements and mechanical complications. Discussing the construction plan of a mechanical movement caliber ETA Unitas 6497-1 the participants will get to know all the single parts of the watch movement that will be assembled later on.

In the last course block of the first day, each participant will disassemble his own movement into all single parts under strong guidance of the specialist.

Armed with the knowledge of the first day's sessions we start on the morning of the second day with the assembly of the NIVREL Replique Manuelle. The morning will be devoted entirely to the assembly of the watch movement. Under the guidance of our master watchmaker each seminar participants puts together his own movement and checks his working results together with the watchmaker. This course block ends with the fine regulation (the precise time setting) of the movement and with the setting of the dial and hands.

In the afternoon of the second day the seminar comes into the home stretch. Seminar participants will learn about the design of the watch case with its different items. The movement will be combined with dial and hands and assembled into the watch case. After setting the crown the single functions of the watch can be checked. In addition to reviewing the position of hands, checking the cleanness of the watch and the general functionality, each participant performs an accuracy test by using an electronical timing devise. A water resistance test will be carried out as well.

Courtesy of Nivrel

At the end of the seminar the participants assemble the bracelet and the corresponding buckle. The watchmaker inspects your individual timepiece and issues the warranty certificate for your masterpiece. At appr. 4.00 p.m. of the second day we conclude our seminar. The NIVREL team will continue to be at your disposal for all the professional and personal questions you may have.

Not Quite White from NIVREL

Sometimes it is the most basic item that is the most appealing. Well, basic in terms of functions and perhaps basic in terms of intent.  This is the Replique Manuelle.

This is a beautiful hand wound timekeeper from NIVREL.

What If? A Nivrel Update!

And joining our ever-growing band of brothers and sisters - NIVREL!

I have to be very honest, so many people came in during BaselWorld that I will need a few days to do a "reconciliation" and name everyone who is now in ; )

Sort of a nice problem to have!

THANK YOU NIVREL!!!

And because I won't stop until, well, NEVER -

What if?

Dear watch companies,

What if?

What if each one of you could take even $5,000 from your annual budgets and donate it to a common cause?  What if the mighty SWATCH, Richemont, LVMH, ROLEX, Sowind, Audemars Piguet, Patek Phillipe, Ulysse Nardin… what if you all came together with a reasonable contribution with the sole goal of trying to fix an "unfixable" problem?

What if 100 watch companies in the world each contributed $5,000 - or more - to fund rangers to protect elephants and rhinos from poachers?  What if based on that, we could then go to people with even more money?  What if your KINDNESS and willingness to do something that was totally selfless then triggered people like Phil Knight of Nike, or Oprah Winfrey, or Bill Gates - I mean, let's aim high here!  What if that all got so much money - and so much attention, that it would be better financially for a father to become a ranger, rather than to become a poacher?  

And what if that action, created a groundswell in China and Vietnam to help people understand that maybe, just maybe the preservation of a species is more valuable than a dubious aphrodisiac?

So, let's name some names - Biver, Hayek, Hoffmann, Sofisti (THANK YOU!), Stern, Marini, Raffi, Stas and all the rest of you -

Are you really interested in doing something great - or is it just talk and PR?  

What am I asking for?  $5,000 if you have it - for some of you big brands, that is WAY less than you spend on a month of advertising.  And as the saying goes, if you can't afford $5,000, give what you can!

Do you really want to make a mark in the world and not just talk about it?  Here is a chance to do it!

Who is in?

Landeron 248? Tell Me More!

This is the Le Chronographe Replique II from NIVREL

Courtesy of NIVREL

Replique Lemania Limited from Nivrel

So this is one of the latest offerings from the folks at Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

Nivrel's Dragon Repeater

Courtesy of Nivrel

So this past weekend was spent running around like crazy, trying to get Christmas and holiday presents organized for friends and family - to be followed by the multitude of holiday cards to be sent - and we haven't even started baking yet.  Those of you who find yourselves in Santa Barbara any Saturday this month, stop by 33 Jewels at old Paseo and have some gingerbread and hang out and talk about Hanhart, Arcadia and Meridian.  I will be there from 2 - 5 through Christmas.

But with this mad rush to get the "next thing done", and move forward to the next holiday, I wanted to take a few minutes to reflect on something cool from this past year.  With the Chinese New Year coming in the not - too distant future, I wanted to reflect back on something cool that was offered this past year - Nivrel's Dragon Repeater.

Here are some details straight from Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

Gemstone Engraving: A hand-engraved rock crystal (dragon motif)

The basic idea of our Pièce Unique watches is the creation of a piece of jewelry with the various possibilities offered by the craftsmenship of a watchmaker and a goldsmith. Each year, NIVREL presents a new motive for the Pièce Unique collection. For 2011/2012 the series is supplemented by a dragon that is engraved into a rock crystal.

A rock crystal is a colorless gemstone from the quartz group. In jewelry manufacturing it has been used for centuries and was once considered a miracle of nature due to its properties: smooth-faced, extremely hard and transparent. In ancient times, people assumed that it was frozen ice, which gave the crystal its name.

The rock crystal which we use for the dragon watch is a pure, completely transparent rock crystal without inclusions. In order to use it, it also has to be completely free of tension. It is cut into a 2 mm thick, polished, and circular plate. A hole of approximately 2 mm is drilled into the center.

First, the motive is selected and roughly sketched. The position of the center hole must be taken into account.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Then the motive will be mirrored and sketched on the rock crystal with a pencil. This is followed by an incision of the sketch into the crystal. This step is necessary, because the engraver will later work with oil, so the pencil sketch would be smeared and become unusable. Thereafter, the real engraving work begins. The motive is engraved in a so-called intaglio style into the rock crystal by using a hand-rolled steel wheel.

Courtesy of Nivrel

When the engraving work is completed the motive is painted in different layers with oil colors. The color that is visible on the top has to be applied first. In the dragon example it is the black color that has to be applied first. A normal brush would be too coarse for the application of the oil color. Therefore, the engraver uses a spur needle that is fixed in a special holding device.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Courtesy of Nivrel

After each coat of paint, the color has to dry for several hours up to several days. Only then, the next layer of paint can be applied until the motive is finished.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Finally, the engraving is sealed with hard wax so that the color won’t come off. By using UV light, the stone is glued to a mother-of-pearl dial. Once the piece of jewelry is completed, it is ready to be built into a watch by the NIVREL watchmakers.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Courtesy of Nivrel

So enjoy the rest of the Year of the Dragon - Nivrel has you covered!

www.nivrel.com

Celebrating 20 Years as a German Brand - Nivrel's Latest Creation

Although founded in the Jura region of Switzerland in 1850, but in fact has spent the last 20 years as a German brand. In recognition of 20 years as a German brand, Nivrel has created some very special time pieces to celebrate. Here is the news, straight from Nivrel.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Gerd Hofer, fourth generation of the jewellery entrepreneur family Kraemer/Hofer from Saarbrucken/Germany acquired the Swiss watch brand NIVREL in 1993, together with his wife Gitta. They seamlessly integrated the watch production into the entrepreneurial structures of the Kraemer/Hofer family. Today, their children continue to lead the family tradition: goldsmith Sven Hofer is the managing director of the Kraemer jewellery store in Saarbrucken, his sister Anja Hofer is CEO of NIVREL and manages the watch company together with her partner Guido Grohmann. In 2013, NIVREL will celebrate the 20th anniversary of NIVREL being a German brand from the Saarland region. The corresponding anniversary watch model will bear the name Coeur de la Sarre (French for: the heart of the Saar).

Courtesy of Nivrel

Historically, NIVREL originated from the brand Marvin. Marvin was founded in 1850 by Marc and Emmanuel Didisheim in St. Imier, part of the Swiss Jura region. In 1936, the company introduced a new brand, NIVREL. NIVREL featured men’s watches with chronographs and calendars, as well as small ladies watches. Movements were either provided by existing suppliers, or produced in-house. In the 1970’s, with the so-called “quartz crisis,” came big changes to the Swiss watch industry. Many big brand companies changed hands or died out completely. Unfortunately, Marvin and NIVREL also vanished from the market; lying dormant for nearly 20 years until Gerd and Gitta Hofer from Saarbrucken revived NIVREL in 1993.

NIVREL has found excited customers for individual watches from Saarbrucken all over the world. That’s why the company is able to celebrate the 20^th anniversary of the watch production in Germany today. A wonderful occasion to dedicate a watch model to the Saar region and its people: The new Coeur de la Sarre!

Courtesy of Nivrel

Anniversary model Coeur de la Sarre

The anniversary model for the 20^th anniversary of being in the German Saarland region bears the name Coeur de la Sarre (heart of the Saar). This slogan has been an integral part of the NIVREL brand logo for many years. It expresses our close relation to our personal roots in the Saar region.

At NIVREL we like to interpret the ticking of our watches being a little bit like the heart beat of the region in which we live and work. The Coeur de la Sarre is the new model within our so-called Replique edition. It comes in four different, limited dial executions. The executions are named after four cities in the Saar region, two on the German ’Saarland‘ side, two on the  French ‘Lorraine’ side. The four cities all bear the Saar River in their names: Sarrebruck (Saarbrucken), Sarrelouis (Saarlouis), Sarreguemines (Saargemünd) and Sarrebourg (Saarburg). On the watch dials, the names are spelled in French as reminiscence to our closeness to the French neighbors and to our joint, laid-back lifestyle, the ‘Savoir Vivre’ as we call it. Even more, 2013 is not only an anniversary year for NIVREL. It also marks the 50^th anniversary of the Franco-German Friendship Treaty (Élysée-Treaty) on 22nd January 1963 that has had such a positive effect on our Franco-German region.

Courtesy of Nivrel

As all watches within NIVREL’s Replique Edition, the Coeur de la Sarre engages with the history of the brand. Since 1994, watches in the Replique edition have always picked up the design of an older NIVREL model from the 1940ies and 1950ies. While the first models have always been chronographs, the new model Coeur de la Sarre is the first one to be reminiscence to a classical three-handed watch. The Coeur de la Sarre picks up a design that could be found on most NIVREL models from the older, Swiss era of the brand. A round case with a domed crystal (Plexiglas on older models) and a dial which shows the time by Arabic numbers in the positions 2, 4, 6, 10 and 12 o‘clock. The positions in between are marked with applied indexes.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Data Sheet NIVREL Coeur de la Sarre
Reference:	N 130.001 CAADS (execution Sarrebruck) N 130.001 CASDS (execution Sarrelouis) N 130.001 CABDS (execution Sarreguemines) N 130.001 CAAHS (execution Sarrebourg)
Movement:	ETA 2824-2, blued screws, rotor with Côtes de Genève
Functions:	Hours, minutes, sweep second
Operating elements:	Crown to wind up the movement and to adjust the time
Case:	Stainless steel 316L, water-resistant to 5 bar
Case dimensions:	Diameter: 42 mm, height: 12,5 mm
Glass and case back:	Curved, hardened mineral crystal, stainless steel case back with window.
Dial:	Dial with sunburst guilloche, applied indexes, luminous with Superluminova C3. Sarrebruck: Silver-coloured. Labelled ‘Sarrebruck‘ at 6 o‘clock. Silver-coloured, Arabic, applied numbers. Sarrelouis: Black. Labelled ‘Sarrelouis‘ at 6 o‘clock. Silver-coloured, Arabic, applied numbers. Sarreguemines: Blue. Labelled ‘Sarreguemines‘ at 6 o‘clock. Silver-coloured, Arabic, applied numbers. Sarrebourg: Champagne-coloured. Labelled ‘Sarrebourg‘ at 6 o‘clock. Rosegold-coloured, Arabic, applied numbers.
Hands:	Losange-style, luminous with Superluminova C3
Strap:	Handmade vintage leather strap in black, chocolate brown, dark grey or light brown
Buckle:	NIVREL signature buckle
Price (incl. 19% VAT):	599,- EUR All four executions are limited to 200 pieces

www.nivrel.com