Showing posts with label repeater. Show all posts
Showing posts with label repeater. Show all posts

Monday, September 28, 2020

The Arceau Pocket Aaaaaargh!

 From... Hermès?!?

Courtesy of Hermès
So I'm not gonna' lie, this one was more than a bit of a surprise. Typically Hermès has very beautiful enamel work, but usually with more subdued subjects like ponies.  
Courtesy of Hermès
So, it's a T-Rex. And I have to be honest here sports fans, I am conflicted. For those with shorter memories, you may not recall the flap that blew up regarding exotic (Crocodile and Alligator) leather and how it is frequently not-so-humanely obtained. Such was the level of upset that none other than Jane Birken (yes, that Jane Birken, of whom the Birken Bag was named) asked to be disassociated from it.  Per Wikipedia -

In 2015, Birkin wrote a public letter to Hermès requesting her name be removed from the bag,[41] stating she wanted the company to "debaptise the Birkin Croco until better practices in line with international norms can be put in place," referring to the cruel methods used to acquire the skins for the bags.[42] Hermès announced soon afterwards that it had satisfied Birkin with new reassurances on this.[43]

The choice of what could be considered a (albeit distant) relative of the aforementioned animals as the muse was clearly tongue in cheek, but probably not the most self-aware choice.

For the record, I am the proud and happy owner of an Apple Watch Hermès with 2 Hermès replacement straps which I can assure you, I paid full price for. I am an Hermès fan, and I sincerely hope they've learned from the whole experience. So while this is my opinion (i.e. "Sorry, too soon?" the answer is "yes"), I fully appreciate that I am one voice out there, but this one cut too close to the fossil for me.

Courtesy of Hermès
It is a beautiful, and singularly wonderful timekeeper, and the dial is beautiful in its composition. I truly appreciate the attention to detail and work that has gone into creating it.

For those of you looking for that something different, this could be in your wheelhouse.

Here are the pertinents -

One-of-a-kind creation

MOVEMENT

Manufacture Hermès H1924 movement Mechanical self-winding movement, crafted in Switzerland
Diameter: 30mm

Thickness: 8.89mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater, flying tourbillon

CASE

Shape/size: Round, 48 mm in diameter
Material: White gold case and cover
Watch glass: Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback Caseback engraved with the inscription “Pièce unique” Water resistance: 3 bar

DIAL

White enamel on a white gold base

COVER

“Aaaaargh” marquetry and leather mosaic motif. Grand Feu enamel eye

LEATHER CORD-STRAP

Medium - green alligator leather

Thursday, July 11, 2019

The Répétition à quarts Manufacture

From Chronoswiss -


Courtesy of Chronoswiss

Case
Reference CH-1641R
Case material 18-karat red gold
Case back Screw-down case back with satin finish 

and sapphire crystal
Diameter in mm 40
Height in mm 13.70
Finish Partly polished, partly with satin finish
Bezel Polished screw-down bezel and full thread

Caliber/Movement
Caliber Manufacture caliber C. 126, automatic
Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 A/h)
Power reserve in hours Approx. 35
Number of jewels 38

Dial
Dial material Solid sterling silver (925), lacquered
Display/s Central hours and minutes, small seconds at 6:00
Design of hands Thermally blued, hand-finished steel hands
Shape of hands Breguet Conique Squelette

Strap & buckle
Strap material Louisiana crocodile leather
Type of buckle Pin buckle or folding clasp

Characteristics
Water resistance in atm 3 (30 m)
Special exclusive strike train with two gongs and an all-or-nothing security mechanism



Wednesday, January 4, 2017

And Ulysse Nardin Keeps it "Classy"

Well, nothing says sophisticated like the image of a naked woman flashing her "lady parts" on your wrist.  Ulysse Nardin posted this promo video on their Facebook site with the functionality to share, and re-repost, so here you go!

While this one might be high on the President Elect's and Billy Bush's Christmas wish list as it offers the opportunity to "grab them by the ......", it still begs the question of why watch companies are still absolutely convinced that this is the best way to showcase their horological "savoir faire". 



In fairness, I suspect it tested better in focus groups than the other suggestion - a 50 year old male watchmaker's nut sack exposed at strategic moments...


It's 2017 guys.  Fonzi has retired.

Or you can continue to jump the shark.


Tuesday, October 4, 2016

The Classic Sonata

From Ulysse Nardin -
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
Here are the pertinents -

Reference
673-05/93-BQ 


Limited Edition
To 99 pieces 


Movement 

Caliber UN-67
Front side/back side etched anchor with integrated safety pin in Silicium 

Front side/back side etched roller with integrated impulse finger in Silicium
Silicium cut hairspring Patented inertial oscillator 


Power-Reserve 

Approximately 42 h 


Winding 

Self-winding 


Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Alarm with cathedral gong
Dual Time system with instant timezone adjustor

Big date in a double window, forward and backward date corrector 


Case


Titanium / stainless steel 


Dial


Blue with hours indexes 


Diameter
44 mm 


Water-resistance 

30 m 


Crystal
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal 


Case-back
Sapphire crystal 


Strap
Leather strap with folding buckle 

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Stranger Vivaldi

From Ulysse Nardin

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

This is a pre-BaselWorld release.

Limited to 99 pieces, the case is 18 carat rose gold.

Reference 6902-125/VIV

The movement is UN's UN-690, 64 jewels with a power reserve of 48 hours (plus or minus).

As its name suggests, this is a "musical" watch.  A melody can be played on the hour or "on call".  There is an on/off mechanism for the melody.




Thursday, October 2, 2014

MAÎTRE CABINOTIER ASTRONOMICA

From Vacheron Constantin -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantine
Now in fairness, this one goes in the "show-pony" category.  But then again, if you're gonna' dream, dream big!

I am not even going to attempt to describe the myriad functions, bells and whistles - all of which are pretty cool ; )

Instead, here's the spec sheet, trust me, it is more than enough to keep you busy!


MAITRE CABINOTIER ASTRONOMICA 

Reference 
80174/000G-9995
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Caliber 
2755-B1
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.9 mm (14’’’ 3⁄4) diameter
12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve 2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)

839 components 42 jewels

Indications 
Hours, minutes
Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage

15 complications:
  1. Minute repeater
  2. Tourbillon
    3-7. Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
  1. Power reserve
  2. Equation of time
  3. Sunrise time
  4. Sunset time
  5. Sky chart
  6. Age and phases of the moon
  7. Sidereal hours and minutes
  8. Seasons, zodiac signs
Setting 
Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions) 
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case 
18K white gold
47 mm diameter, 19.1 mm thick


Dials 
18K white gold, slate-colored opaline 
18K white gold applied hour-markers
18K white gold hands


Strap 
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp 
18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Box 
Prestige winder box made of Makassar wood

Accessories 
Delivered with a corrector pen, a magnifying glass and a resonator of sound « La Musique du Temps » enhancing the sound and the harmony notes of Vacheron Constantin minute
repeater 

« Pièce unique » engraved on caseback 

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

It Chimes!

There is something truly cool about repeaters.  And for those of you were worried that a wonderful complication would be forever out of your reach, don't worry.  The good folks of Nivrel have got you covered!
Courtesy of Nivrel
This is the Horaire Répétition Classique.  The repeater is activated by a button at the base of the watch at 6 o'clock. The movement is based on ETA's 2892-A2 and is equipped with a "repeater" module.

Thank you Nivrel!



Monday, June 3, 2013

“Les Sons du Temps”… The sounds of time in musical mode

This just in from Vacheron Constantin -
From the left to the right : Heinz Forrer, President of Vacheron Constantin Switzerland, Charlotte Mailler, "Art en Vieille Ville" and Julien Marchenoir, Marketing and Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin 

Twice a year, the Maison Vacheron Constantin unveils its historical collections for devotees of technical and precious Fine Watchmaking, as well as for the public at large. Each of these encounters signals the Manufacture’s determination to present a particular facet of its uninterrupted history since 1755, as well as to share its passion for creativity and precise, skilled gestures.

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Introducing Spero Lucem and La Clémence

Courtesy of Spero Lucem
Some people like Christmas, others the Super Bowl - but for me it is BaselWorld.  Every year there is an opportunity for a birth and rebirth! So when it comes to the "birth" of a new brand, there is always hope and anticipation.  One of the contenders this year is the La Clémence from the newly launched brand Spero Lucem.  Yvan Arpa has named this first model after one of the bells in a Geneva cathedral.  And given that this model is named for a cathedral bell, it seems only fitting that it's a minute repeater. 
Courtesy of Spero Lucem
But more than a repeater, it is a tourbillon.  And there is a visual treat as well - when the repeater is engaged (i.e. sounding) the hands take on a life of their own - a sort of temporary insanity, which Spero Lucem refers to as the hands "going crazy".

Here are the specs -

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound, flying tourbillon, 471 parts, 59 jewels, 21,600 vib/h, 90-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, crazy hands and minute repeater

Case
18k gold, 44 mm or two-tone titanium (case middle and crown) and 18k gold (bezel, back and repeater slide), circular satin-brushed finishes Sapphire crystal and back

Dial
Off-centred hour and minute indication at 12 o’clock with polished gold hands Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Strap
Hand-sewn crocodile, with titanium buckle and 18k gold logo


The site is "Coming Soon" but for your reference -

www.spero-lucem.com

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Tutima‘s Hommage Minute Repeater: Deliveries begin!

So let's talk about history - the faux reinterpretation of history - and the GENUINE REAFFIRMATION of history.  And it is the latter of these that comes to mind when I think about the  new pieces from Tutima.  And while I could wax lyrical, they went to the trouble to send something pretty eloquent that tells the whole story - so courtesy of Tutima -
Courtesy of Tutima

Punctually at the beginning of the New Year, the first specimens of this complicated wristwatch with a platinum case were delivered from the Tutima manufacture. Never before had the entire mechanism of a minute repeater been built in Glashütte, so this model attracted tremendous attention when it was unveiled in the summer of 2011 – and it has been eagerly awaited by the world’s watch aficionados ever since. To express gratitude for the patience of the purchasers, the retail price that was quoted at the presentation of this limited-edition wristwatch has been kept unchanged. 



Compared to the version which debuted in 2011, the Hommage Caliber 800 embodies a few small and mostly aesthetically motivated modifications. The most obvious difference is the new rose gold surface on the plates and bridges, which now harmonize better with the material used for the cases of the two models in platinum and rose gold – after all, this watch reveals much of its technical inner life, especially in the version with a skeletonized dial. On the movement side, a connoisseur can admire Tutima’s historical insignia, the cover of the striking mechanism’s barrel (which, like the balance-cock, is now manually decorated with relief engraving), and the mechanism that activates the repeater’s two little hammers. 

Courtesy of Tutima

With the Hommage, Tutima pays homage to the watchmaking town of Glashütte and to its grand horological tradition. The minute repeater marks the return of the brand to the place of its founding and simultaneously heralds the beginning of a completely new collection of Tutima watches, each of which is "Made in Glashütte". These timepieces will be presented at BASELWORLD, the world’s leading trade fair for watches and jewelry, on April 25, 2013. 


And I will be there to share the story with you!


Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Ulysse Nardin Carnival of Venice Minute Repeater

This just in from Ulysse Nardin -

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin finds inspiration in one of the world’s most romantic cities for the new, limited-edition Minute Repeater Carnival of Venice, a creation of stunning artistic illustration and brilliant engineering. And, it’s not the first time this magical place has been the setting for a Ulysse Nardin timepiece’s tale.

In the late 1980s, Ulysse Nardin introduced San Marco, a watch that symbolized the rebirth of the minute repeater, a complication that allows time to not only be seen, but also heard in sublime quality. A repeater is as much a musical instrument as it is a timekeeper. Renowned for its many “firsts” in watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin introduced a surprising variation to this late 17th century invention – the “Jaquemart”.

Jaquemarts are beautifully animated figures set into the dial and move in sync with the activated minute repeater, contributing to the storyline of the timepiece. 
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin 

Its dial, the heart of the timepiece, depicts two figures in front of the Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal. Both Jaquemarts are wearing masks, alluding to the Carnival of Venice. The feeling of festivity is set. With the minute repeater’s chiming of the hours, quarters and minutes, the Jaquemarts lift their masks. To this day, Ulysse Nardin remains among the rare manufacturers in the world to use Jaquemarts on the dial of its wristwatch minute repeaters.

Intensifying the elaborate detail of the dial is the enamel champlevé technique, a lost decorative art that is mastered by less than a handful of craftsman; today, only leading watchmakers such as Ulysse Nardin produce pieces showcasing enamel champlevé. In this very special creation, the enamel champlevé is further refined by hand chiseling and ornamented with engravings. The result is a stunning work of art that will be available to only a select few.

The Carnival of Venice Minute Repeater is a limited-edition mechanical timepiece of eighteen made in platinum, with the possibility of an 18-karat rose gold option. It is an exceptional example of the skill of the hand and the dedication of the mind to the enduring and evolving skill of watchmaking. 


Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
Limited Edition to  18 Pieces


Reference 719-63



Movement               Caliber UN-71

Power-Reserve        Approx. 48 h
   
Winding                  Manual winding

Functions                Jaquemarts Minute Repeater Chiming hours, 
                               quarters and minutes Two different chimes
    
Case                       Platinum

Diameter                42 mm
   
Water-resistance    30 m
  
Dial                       Champlevé Enamel
   
Crystal                  Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
   
Case-back            Anti-reflective sapphire crystal fixed with screws
    
Crown                  Water-resistant

Band                     Leather strap, with folding buckle

   

www.ulysse-nardin.com   

Saturday, October 6, 2012

The Soprano by Christophe Claret

This just in from Christophe Claret -

The Soprano by Christophe Claret
Tourbillon minute repeater with four cathedral gongs
Courtesy of Christophe Claret

The Soprano features a musically accurate 4-note minute repeater striking Westminster Quarters on patented cathedral gongs, a 60-second tourbillon and Charles X style bridges, all on a spectacular dial-free view. The Soprano pays homage to the roots of Christophe Claret’s manufacture, which has innovated in striking complications, tourbillons and sapphire components since its earliest years. Indeed, in 1997 Christophe Claret was the first to incorporate sapphire components comprising plates and Charles X style bridges in a wristwatch movement.

The Soprano is a timepiece of contrasts: traditional haute horlogerie with state-of-the-art manufacturing; English Parliament with French King; historic complications with contemporary design; aural indications with visual displays; noble gold with high-tech titanium, and metal components with sapphire elements. 

Courtesy of Christophe Claret
The minute repeater is consideredwith good reason to be one of the most demanding and difficult horological complications to realize due to the marriage of technical complexity with artistic musical tonality. A minute repeater tells the time audibly with two notes created from two small hammers striking two gongs: one for the hours, one for the minutes and a combination of the two for the quarter hours. Even more complex is the Clarion repeater with three notes that can play a simple melody for the quarters.

However, the nec plus ultra of the minute repeater realm is the Westminster – so called for the distinctive tune played by the Big Ben clock at the Palace of Westminster, home of the British Parliament. Big Ben strikes a complex melody for the quarters with four hammers striking four notes on four bells. To provide an even fuller and richer sound than standard repeaters, the Christophe Claret Soprano features four cathedral gongs, each circling the perimeter of the movement twice (a normal gong goes around only once). And to further ensure that the rich sound reaches the listen’s ears, the central case band is in grade 5 titanium, a metal known for its superior acoustic properties and used in musical instruments.

A few decades before Big Ben began chiming Westminster Quarters over London, the French king Charles X was making a significant impact on art, architecture and horology. One of the defining characteristics of pocket watches created during this period were stepped bridges, which became known as Charles X bridges. Having spent much of his early watchmaking career restoring beautiful timepieces from this epoch, Christophe Claret incorporated this historic design element into the Soprano.

In 1997, Christophe Claret was the very first to use sapphire bridges (even then Charles X style) and plates in wristwatch movements, and the Soprano makes liberal use of sapphire components to allow visual access into the mechanisms. From the smoked ring circumscribing the movement that discreetly hides yet subtly reveals the cathedral gongs, to the transparent mainspring barrel at the top of the open dial, and turning over to the clear repeater inertia governor cover visible through the sapphire display back.


“When I created Manufacture Claret over 20 years ago, the very first movement I developed was a minute repeater so the complication has always been very special to me.” Christophe Claret 

Minute Repeater: The minute repeater, which strikes the time on demand (usually by activating a slide on the caseband), is an extremely difficult complication to realize because:
1. Technically, it is a very complex mechanism.
2. Musically, the notes have to ring clear, loud and harmoniously.

With decades of experience developing striking watches, Christophe Claret has not just mastered the mysterious art of minute repeaters, but has brought the genre into the 21st century. Working with a piano tuner, Claret developed a computer program called Analyser 2000 that records and analyses the notes for pitch, duration and loudness, and even the length of the silent pauses between notes. This enables the Christophe Claret manufacture to consistently create harmonious and musically accurate melodies with strong crystalline notes.

Each note is determined by the precise length and diameter of the gongs. The hammer has to strike forcefully for a loud sound, but immediately leave the gong so as not to deaden the ring.

“The melody chimed by the Soprano is as musically correct as possible." Christophe Claret

Repeater operation: When the repeater slide is activated, the chimes sound the number of hours with C (Do), the deepest note; followed by the Westminster Quarters’ melody for the quarter hours (unless fewer than 15 minutes after the hour); and then the number of minutes after the last quarter hour.

Patented cathedral gongs: Each cathedral gong circles the movement twice so that one coil lies just above the other. Because the coils are so close together, they can touch each other as they vibrate, which can create a disconcerting buzz. Christophe Claret invented a system that effectively avoids this problem, which was awarded a patent.

Westminster Quarters: Westminster Quarters, also known as Westminster Chimes, is a four-note tune originally written in 1793 for the bells of the St Mary the Great Church in Cambridge, England and was known as the Cambridge Chimes.

However, in 1859 the melody was chosen for the clock tower at the Palace of Westminster in London. A clock now more commonly known now as Big Ben, though the term originally referred to just the large hour bell. So well known did the four-note chimes become that they came to be called Westminster Chimes.