The ARCEAU Toucan de Paradis

 From Hermès -

Courtesy of Hermès

Here are the pertinents -

Numbered limited edition of 24

MOVEMENT

Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement
Mechanical self-winding, crafted in Switzerland
Diameter: 23.30 mm
Thickness: 3.9 mm
Power reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour / 4 Hz
Functions: Hours, minutes
Decoration: Circular-grained and snailed baseplate,
oscillating weight and bridges adorned with a sprinkling of Hs

CASE

Shape / size: round, 38 mm in diameter
Material: white gold, bezel set with 82 diamonds Glass: anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case-back Water resistance: 3 bar

DIAL

Enamelled miniature and silk threads on a white gold base

STRAP

Zanzibar blue calfskin

The Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel

From Hermès -

Courtesy of Hermès

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

Shape/dimensions: Round, 39.5 mm diameter
Material: Beadblasted grade 5 titanium caseband and case-back 950 platinum bezel
750 white gold crown and pusher
Crystal: Sapphire crystal and case-back with anti-glare treatment Water-resistance: 3 bar

DIAL

Anthracite, silver-toned transferred Arabic numerals. Mother-of-pearl moon against an aventurine glass sky. Sandblasted rhodium-plated or blue-lacquered baton-type hands.

MOVEMENT

Type: Mechanical self-winding movement, crafted in Switzerland. Manufacture ultra-thin H1950 movement Module: Agenhor
Diameter: 30 mm (13 1⁄4’’’)
Thickness: 2.6 mm (movement) + 1.4 mm (module) 

Power Reserve: 42 hours
Jeweling: 29 jewels (movement) + 3 jewels (module) 

Frequency: 21’600 vibrations per hour / 3H 

Decoration: Bridges hand-bevelled and adorned
with ‘sprinkling of Hs’
Distinctive feature: Micro-rotor
Functions: Hours, minutes, moon phases, second time zone, day/night indication, perpetual calendar

STRAP

Matt graphite alligator
950 platinum 17 mm (≈ 7.36 g) pin buckle

The Arceau Grande Lune The Arceau Grande Lune

From Hermès -

Courtesy of Hermès

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

Henri d’Origny (1978)
Very Large Model (TGM), 43 mm, round Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback

DIAL

Blue dial.
Transferred Arabic numerals. Rhodium-plated hands

MOVEMENT

Mechanical self-winding movement, crafted in Switzerland

MODULE

Large Moon module

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 6 o’clock,
moon phase at 6 o’clock, day and month at 12 o’clock

BUCKLE

316L steel folding clasp, 22 mm

STRAP

Matt Abyss blue alligator strap

The Arceau Pocket Aaaaaargh!

 From... Hermès?!?

Courtesy of Hermès

So I'm not gonna' lie, this one was more than a bit of a surprise. Typically Hermès has very beautiful enamel work, but usually with more subdued subjects like ponies.  

Courtesy of Hermès

So, it's a T-Rex. And I have to be honest here sports fans, I am conflicted. For those with shorter memories, you may not recall the flap that blew up regarding exotic (Crocodile and Alligator) leather and how it is frequently not-so-humanely obtained. Such was the level of upset that none other than Jane Birken (yes, that Jane Birken, of whom the Birken Bag was named) asked to be disassociated from it.  Per Wikipedia -

In 2015, Birkin wrote a public letter to Hermès requesting her name be removed from the bag,^[41] stating she wanted the company to "debaptise the Birkin Croco until better practices in line with international norms can be put in place," referring to the cruel methods used to acquire the skins for the bags.^[42] Hermès announced soon afterwards that it had satisfied Birkin with new reassurances on this.^[43]

The choice of what could be considered a (albeit distant) relative of the aforementioned animals as the muse was clearly tongue in cheek, but probably not the most self-aware choice.

For the record, I am the proud and happy owner of an Apple Watch Hermès with 2 Hermès replacement straps which I can assure you, I paid full price for. I am an Hermès fan, and I sincerely hope they've learned from the whole experience. So while this is my opinion (i.e. "Sorry, too soon?" the answer is "yes"), I fully appreciate that I am one voice out there, but this one cut too close to the fossil for me.

Courtesy of Hermès

It is a beautiful, and singularly wonderful timekeeper, and the dial is beautiful in its composition. I truly appreciate the attention to detail and work that has gone into creating it.

For those of you looking for that something different, this could be in your wheelhouse.

Here are the pertinents -

One-of-a-kind creation

MOVEMENT

Manufacture Hermès H1924 movement Mechanical self-winding movement, crafted in Switzerland
Diameter: 30mm

Thickness: 8.89mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater, flying tourbillon

CASE

Shape/size: Round, 48 mm in diameter
Material: White gold case and cover
Watch glass: Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback Caseback engraved with the inscription “Pièce unique” Water resistance: 3 bar

DIAL

White enamel on a white gold base

COVER

“Aaaaargh” marquetry and leather mosaic motif. Grand Feu enamel eye

LEATHER CORD-STRAP

Medium - green alligator leather

The Arceau Ronde des Heures

From Hermès Horloger -

Courtesy of Hermès Horloger

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Dial
Black-coated glossy sunburst, crescent
in luminescent natural white mother-of-pearl Pegasus constellation with stars in luminescent natural white mother-of-pearl
Matte black gold-coated hours mobile Rhodium-plated minutes hand
Case
Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978
Round case in glossy black PVD-coated brushed 316L steel, set with 66 black spinelsDiameter 36 mm, interhorn width 19 mm Sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment Water-resistant to 3 bar
Movement
Quartz, Swiss made
Functions
Hours, minutes
Strap
Polished black alligatorPin buckle in black 316L steel, 17 mm

Pégase Paysage

From Hermès -

Courtesy of Hermès

This is the latest iteration of the Slim d’Hermès.  
Here are the pertinents -

Numbered eight-piece limited edition

MOVEMENT
Mechanical self-winding, Swiss made Manufacture Hermès ultra-thin H1950 Diameter: 30mm (13 1⁄4 ")
Thickness: 2.6 mm
Power reserve: 42 hours
Jewelling :29 jewels
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour / 3 Hz Decoration: Sprinkling of Hs
Functions: Hours, minutes
Distinctive features: Micro-rotor, hand-bevelled bridges

CASE
Shape/size: Round, 39.5 mm in diameter
Material: White gold
Glass: Sapphire crystal and caseback with anti-glare treatment Water resistance: 3 bar

DIAL
Wood marquetry

STRAP
Havana alligator

Anniversaries, Watches and Hermes

June 4th is a special day every year at Henki House.  And this year was particularly auspicious as Wendy and I celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary in Montreal, where we had our honeymoon back in 1994.

On the morning of the 4th, I set out from our hotel to fetch bagels (when in Montreal, do as the locals), and upon opening the door to our hotel room found this sitting in the entry way -

Now point of full-disclosure, I had toyed with the idea of an Apple Watch as a "work out" watch.  I certainly thought it was sort of cool.  But I had been burned by connected and smart watches before.  Functions never worked as advertised.  The watches frequently "pooped out" after a short amount of time.  I have given up on doing smart/connected watch reviews because of the three that I have done in the past:

1.  Watch crapped out in the middle of the 2 week review period
2.  Watch "soiled the sheets" approximately 3 weeks following the review period - i.e. it made it 1 month and 3 days.
3.  Watch worked great out of the box.  Ran fine for about 2 months, then software got buggy and never quite recovered despite multiple updates and re-sets.

So that's me, a little cynical.  

Now although we are only 2 weeks into this relationship, I take a lot of comfort in Apple's track record for reliability is pretty strong, and as an "Apple Guy" since 1987 I am definitely a fan of the interface, look and feel of Apple products.


And as I said, for a long time I have always been a mechanical fan, and even developed an appreciation for "clever quartz" pieces like Michael Happe's passion project, the Gavox Aurora -

As well as a new-found love for G-Shock following my visit to their factory last September -

But then I started wearing this -

The Apple Watch, in and of itself is quite a nice little timekeeper.  I refuse to call it a "wearable" because I feel if you're going down that road, you have to apply it to pretty much everything (just one man's opinion).  After a few weeks of blissful wear, I have discovered some of the pleasant benefits of wearing an Apple Watch.  The "walk measure" meter I use daily.  While driving if I am using my phone as GPS through the CarPlay?  The watch will "buzz" on my wrist with an arrow indicating what direction I need to turn.  I have not set-up the ECG function yet, but as a man of a certain age?  It's on the to-do list.  Other updates are pushed through, and again I actually appreciate it.  Before, anytime my phone pinged I was distracted and felt I needed to pull my phone out of my pocket, and check it.  Now?  A quick look at my watch tells me if it is important or not.  Also, like my two GPS enabled G-Shocks, I can be certain that the time is correct.

I love the ability to change faces.  I know, sort of silly, but I dig it!

While a standard Apple Watch gives you quite a few face options, the Hermès Apple Watch gives you, well, the 

Hermès faces!  So far I am sticking to the black, white and orange options as they really go with the tri-color straps.  

Another Hermès touch is (and I know this is VERY un-Henki), the packaging!

A larger Orange 

Hermès box holds two smaller boxes within.  One of them holds the watch head and an Orange rubber strap. The second box holds the AMAZINGLY wonderful 

Hermès leather strap -

Now I have seen 

Hermès straps on Hermès watches at BaselWorld, but in truth had never worn one.  I realize that hyperbole is an annoying trait displayed by those in the 4th and 5th Estates specializing in the luxury industry, but this is one wonderful strap.  

So much so, that I am already saving my pennies for 2 options -

Courtesy of Apple

Courtesy of Apple

One suggestion I would put out there for 

Hermès and Apple?  Make an Hermès strap case/pouch that could hold 3 or 4 different straps.  I know that you can park the straps "wherever", but let's be honest, when you're talking about an Hermès product, you are willing to go a little bit further to have something special.  So Hermès, if you go for it, no charge for the idea ; )

And when it comes to the Apple Watch itself?  Well I know that it is early days, and yes the Apple Watch has a few drawbacks, most notable for many of us is the need to re-charge it on a fairly regular basis.  And for many people out there, the feeling is that it is a LOT of money for something that might be outdated in a year or two.  Well, yes and no.  Ultimately, nothing is 100% permanent.  I have several friends and colleagues who are still wearing and enjoying their early versions of Apple Watches.  In addition?  Apple does offer a trade-in (providing your watch is "trade-in-able". 

Lastly, I will say that I was, and continue to be, profoundly touched by this gift.  If I had any doubt that Wendy "gets" me, well let's just say that she does.  

Enjoy your watches!

The Arceau L'heure de la lune

From Hermès - 

Courtesy of Hermes

Sorry for the brevity, but the level of hyperbole in the press releases coming through lately is starting to strain credulity, so we'll just stick to the pertinents, with a brief preamble, straight from the source -

The new Arceau L’heure de la lune watch offers a unique vision of Earth’s satellite with the simultaneous display of moon phases in both northern and southern hemispheres.

DIAL

AVENTURINE DIAL

White-lacquered mobile counters, black transfers

METEORITE DIAL

Gradated grey-lacquered mobile counters,

white transfers

 Moons in white natural mother-of-pearl

Southern moon: Pegasus transfer inspired

by the Pleine Lune motif designed by

Dimitri Rybaltchenko

Northern moon: lunar surface transfer

Blued hands

 

CASE

Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978

White gold case (≈ 68.2g)

43mm in diameter, 22mm interhorn width

Antiglare sapphire crystal and case-back

Water-resistant to 3 bar

 

MOVEMENT

Hermès Manufacture H1837 movement

Mechanical self-winding, Swiss made

Diameter: 26mm (11½’’’)

Thickness: 3.7mm

193 components, 28 jewels

Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)

Circular-grained and snailed baseplate,

satin-brushed bridges and oscillating weight,

signature “H” pattern

 

MODULE

Exclusive “L’heure de la lune” module

Diameter: 38mm (16¾’’’)

Thickness: 4.2mm

117 components, 14 jewels

Polished and bead-blasted bridges

 

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, date, double moon phase

(display of moon phases seen from the northern

and southern hemispheres)

 

STRAP

AVENTURINE DIAL

Matt abyss blue alligator

METEORITE DIAL

Matt graphite grey alligator

17mm white gold folding clasp (≈ 26.39g)

 

The CAPE COD Chaîne d’ancre

From Hermès-

Courtesy of Hermès

This is an SIHH preview, it will be available in two versions, a black lacquered dial (above), and a white lacquered dial (below).

Courtesy of Hermès

My general feeling about the SIHH is not dissimilar to a rather uncomfortable rash, but the folks at Hermès are plenty nice enough, so here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS 

DIAL
Black lacquered dial. Anchor chains set with 71 black spinels and adorned with a champlevé aventurine decor
White lacquered dial. Anchor chains set with 71 diamonds and adorned with champlevé mother-of-pearl decor

CASE
Shape/Size: Square in a rectangle. Large Model 29 x 29 mm Material: Stainless steel set with 42 diamonds
Diamond clarity: Top Wesselton V.V.S “rare white”
to “rare white +”
Crystal: Glareproofed sapphire Water resistance: 3 bar 

STRAP
Black alligator leather Chantilly alligator leather 

MOVEMENT
Quartz, made in Switzerland 

FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes

Denial 2.1

It would seem that every party needs a pooper, and I am feeling like a man who's been constipated for the past few months and is about to be blessed by the results of an all-you can eat buffet of 3-Alarm chili, bran muffins and 15 cups of coffee, so here goes -


Despite what some bubbly, perky, Kool-Aide chuggers masquerading as "influencers" (and just what the f*&k is an influencer anyway?) would have you believe, this year's BaselWorld could best be called one of the worst in recent memories.  The number of retailers from North America - a very real indicator of "BaselWorld health" was drastically reduced from last year which was (wait for it), drastically reduced from the year before...

The fair organizers waxed long and poetic this year about how the departure of 200 or so exhibiting brands was a clear drive for quality, that by cutting out the "riff raff", they were clearly improving the fair.  And then this happened-

Hermès to leave Basel to join SIHH (Courtesy of Le Temps)


Hermès is not exactly a Walmart brand.  And there were plenty of those "off brand" brands alive and well and displaying in Hall 2, so I'm calling bullshit on this one.  

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

Losing Hermès is not unlike your girlfriend breaking up with you the night before Prom to go with your best friend instead.


As I said before, there is essentially one key qualifying factor for having a booth at BaselWorld - the cash to pay for it.

And let's talk about where all that cash goes...
As a member of the press, I truly do appreciate some of the largesse bestowed upon me and my fellow flaks.  I will say the atmosphere took an ugly turn during Monday's lunch when they ran out of sandwiches, but sometimes you have to fight for your meal, and I do apologize for throwing that haymaker, but these are battle conditions and my blood sugar was dropping...

But  then let's talk about something else -

Courtesy of Rod Hess

For those of you not familiar, this is a very common sight on the streets that run from the fair grounds to the train station and the 3 Kings.  

Courtesy of Rod Hess

What you see here are two brand new, unwrapped BaselWorld media guides and some other catalogs produced and distributed by a few brands you might have heard of.  They are beautifully laid out books containing hundreds of glossy pages in a hard cover format that weigh enough to push your baggage weight well over the mandated 20 kilos for Swiss Air.  Think I'm full of it?  Wander around the check-in area of Zurich and Basel's airports and you will see people making a quick deliberation between the merits of the hardcover guide (and brand catalogs) and the pounds and pounds of chocolate and swag.  Spoiler alert, the chocolate and swag win every time.

Nobody wants to see BaselWorld do badly.  We enjoy it, it is truly an exciting week.  But it is time for the fair management to take a break from drinking their own bath water and admit that things have changed.  Eliminating the fair "omnibus" would be a good first step in money savings (and would certainly be an eco-friendly move).  And the brands need to follow suit.  The glossy catalogs are a monumental waste of money in their production, shipping and inevitable premature destruction before they are even opened. 

Change is hard.  Change is scary.  I know of several brand managers and sales executives who were summarily dismissed just prior to the fair.  And truth be told, for many of these terminations there were several reasons to cut ties.  The argument could be made that it is all "the factory's fault" for making too many watches and expecting too many sales.  It could also be said that perhaps some of these folks are making fairly impressive base salaries with the motivation to sell being somewhat buffered by a 6 figure guaranteed income.  Business class airfare, premium rental car, $250 daily per diem, these are not the signs of a company or of employees that understand the severity of the current situation.  Brand managers tend to treat budgets as if they are non-profits depending on grant money to survive and if they don't use the entire budget, they'll get less next year.  I would love to see a watch brand reward their staff for coming in UNDER BUDGET in terms of expenses.

It is easy to resist change, to look back on previous good times with the expectation that tomorrow will be better somehow.  But as my colleagues and I constantly remind some of our more reluctant consulting clients, change is only possible when the pain of continuing in the current manner is so dreadfully unimaginable that there are no other possible conceivable alternatives to that change.

Or we can be oblivious with our optimism and declare -

JUST WAIT UNTIL NEXT YEAR!

As a lifelong Cleveland Indian's fan, I can relate that there is no guarantee that NEXT YEAR will ever come.

 

The Cape Cod TGM Manufacture

This is a BaselWorld preview from the folks at Hermès-

It is available in four different dial options -

Opaline -

Courtesy of Hermès

Blue -

Courtesy of Hermès

 

Anthracite -

Courtesy of Hermès

And Black -

Courtesy of Hermès

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

Type -

Mechanical self-winding, Swiss made. Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement

Diameter -

23.9 mm (10 1⁄2’’’)

Thickness -

3.7 mm

Power reserve -
50 hours

Jewelling -
28 jewels

Frequency -
28,800 vibrations per hour / 4 Hz

Decoration -
Circular-grained and snailed mainplate. Bridges and oscilating weight satin-brushed
and adorned with the signature ‘sprinkling of Hs”

Functions -
Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 6 o’clock


CASE

Shape/dimensions -
Rectangular, 33 x 33 mm

Material -
Stainless steel

Crystal -
Sapphire crystal and case-back with anti-glare treatment
Water resistance -
3 bar

DIAL

Blue, black, anthracite or opaline silvered Raised rhodium-coated Arabic numerals Silvered square transferred minutes scale Stamped central decor
Rhodium-coated hands

BUCKLE

Steel 17 mm folding clasp

 

STRAP

Matt graphite alligator (anthracite dial) Matt black alligator (black dial)
Matt indigo alligator (blue dial)
Natural Barenia calf leather (silvered dial)

 

 

25 Years of the Cape Cod

Time flies, and for Hermès and their Cape Cod, the passage of time has been marked by a watch that has not only caught but secured the attention of the watch buying public.

Courtesy of Hermès 

What started as a whimsical notion has become a mainstay in the Hermès collection. 

Here in their own words, some background on the Cape Cod -

This creation was born from a wild desire and a singular vision: that of a man who invented it by designing a square inside a rectangle. Easier said than done, yet Henri d’Origny achieved it by drawing inspiration from the Chaîne d’ancre link. Doubtless because he is a free spirit and because the watch he imagined (despite being more used to designing Hermès silk scarves) featured such a self-evident aesthetic that it achieved global renown.

Its success was further amplified by Martin Margiela’s novel idea for his very first Hermès runway show in 1998: adding a double-wrap strap that would later be known simply as the “Double Tour”. Sales rocketed and the Cape Cod watch became an icon, almost a style in its own right.  

Courtesy of Hermès

 Happy Birthday Cape Cod!

Doing Good - Hermès #FierceAndFragile

A Very BIG Merci goes out to Hermès !  Here's the scoop -

PANTHERA

The global wild cat conservation organization

Hermès proudly unites with Panthera, the global wild cat conservation organization, which was founded in 2006 by Thomas S. Kaplan and his wife Daphne Recanati Kaplan. The Robert Dallet Initiative for Wild Cat Conservation has been created specifically for this project.

Panthera is the only organization in the world devoted exclusively to the conservation of the world’s 38 wild cat species and their ecosystems.

Conserving big cats and their habitats supports the health and survival of thousands of plant and animal species around the globe, including people; by protecting big cats, we protect ourselves.
Learn more about Panthera’s initiatives at www.panthera.org

In support of this, Hermès will be partnering to offer a very special book -

Courtesy of Hermès 

Here are the details - 

In resonance with « Nature at Full Gallop », Hermès' theme for 2016, Actes Sud and Hermès are publishing a book dedicated to the work of Robert Dallet (1923-2006).
Painter and illustrator Robert Dallet dedicated his whole life to the study and representation of wild animals, and was above all fascinated by the beauty of big cats. By presenting a selection of his unseen works (watercolors and gouaches, Indian ink and pencil sketches), this book pays homage to the talent and sensitivity of the naturalist and animal painter with whom the Hermès house formed a deep connection. This testimony, marked by a deep sense of empathy, undoubtedly constitutes an act of resistance against the disappearance of a world whose incredible wealth and diversity is endangered.
This book will be available in Hermès stores and Actes Sud bookstores and also at hermes.com

What I NEVER Thought I'd Say...

I now want an APPLE WATCH!!!

Courtesy of Hermès

Let me rephrase that - I want an Hermès Apple Watch!  So far in the first wave of "Smart Watch Mania" I have considered myself to be a "conscientious objector" - per the Ubran Dictionary:

Conscientious objector

The term for a person who refuses to participate in fighting a war due to religious/other beliefs.

An example of conscientious objectors are Quakers, or "Friends" as they are otherwise known, will not fight because of their philosophical beliefs.

The Pendant Boule

From Hermès

Courtesy of Hermès 

Hermès in many ways is a "Dream Factory" - a place where the difficult to imagine is produced with a precision, quality and beauty that is difficult to imagine possible.  And with their latest offering, the Pendentif Boule, that reputation is further enhanced.

Doing Good - Association Solibu - and Fondation d’entreprise Hermès

Credit where credit is due - I urge you to support and commend the charitable work undertaken by Fondation d’entreprise Hermès

All text and images are courtesy of Fondation d’entreprise Hermès.

Association Solibu

Growing spirulina to combat malnutrition in Burundi 

© Solibu – Denis Lavenant courtesy of Herme

Spirulina algae are strategically important in the fight against malnutrition in Burundi. Spirulina cultivation is also creating new jobs. In Bujumbura, the not-for-profit association Solibu supports the establishment of a new spirulina farm, whose output is partly donated to malnourished children.

© Solibu – Denis Lavenant Courtesy of Hermes

Spirulina algae are strategically important in the fight against malnutrition in Burundi. Spirulina cultivation is also creating new jobs. In Bujumbura, the not-for-profit association Solibu supports the establishment of a new spirulina farm, whose output is partly donated to malnourished children.The French not-for-profit association Solibu (Solidarité Internationale Burundi) works with Burundi’s poorest communities, cultivating spirulina as a key component in the fight against malnutrition. The microscopic, protein-rich algae are a highly beneficial food supplement for the weakest sufferers, especially children. Solibu’s small, pilot farm produces around 150 kilos of spirulina per year – inadequate for today’s needs. 

To achieve its target production of one tonne of spirulina per year, Solibu has joined forces with Antenna Technologies France to build a new farm near Bujumbura, meeting the nutritional needs of thousands of children. The operation is self-financing: 35 per cent of production is sold commercially as a health and dietary supplement, while the rest is sold at cost price to not-for-profit associations, and distributed free to orphaned children. 

Spirulina is a growth sector, creating agricultural jobs in Burundi. With support from the Fondation d’entreprise Hermès over a two-year period, Solibu is training new spirulina growers and nutrition directors for local health centres. The Foundation is also supporting initiatives to raise awareness of the benefits of spirulina among local populations.   

The programme is supported by the Fondation d’entreprise Hermès as part of its H³ programme (Head – Heart – Hand).