The Curious Case of Francis Ford Coppola

News broke (in fairness, more than a few days ago) that Francis Ford Coppola has made arrangements to have seven pieces of his watch collection placed at auction with Phillips. Most notable of these is this little wrist rocket -

Courtesy of Phillips

Curious to relate, this story (as far as I can tell, but then again I am not always the quickest of bunnies) has not really been picked up by Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates. That, in and of itself, is a wee bit curious. But more curious than that is the (I've got to be honest) levels of glee expressed by the press, not least of which can be read in Stuart Heritage's piece in the Guardian -

Strapped for cash: why Francis Ford Coppola is flogging his watches

In the interest of full disclosure I have not seen his latest film, Megalopolis, so I can't really comment on the film's quality or possible lack thereof. But the buzz around the press (possibly planted by Coppola himself to generate interest) is that after investing $100 million of his money in what in hindsight has proven to be a failed venture, he needs the money. Well, maybe yes, maybe no. 

I would be disingenuous if I did not admit my own bouts of schadenfreude when it comes to the mishaps suffered by certain denizens of Watch Town. And in all fairness, I know of at least one major luminary with his own ubiquitous brand, and a handful of journalists (active and no longer so) who would feel the same about me. We are after all, human. 

But I want to propose another theory which characterizes my recent revelation that two things can be true at the same time. It might well be that Mr. Coppola is feeling the sting of essentially losing that large an amount of money. But at the same time, it might be that he has come to a point in his life where he realizes that he will have less and less control over the immediate future. He is 86 years old, and it is inevitable that at some point we all reprioritize what is important in our lives. In many ways, this ensures that his collection goes to (hopefully) a good home, and he will have some pocket money. 

In addition to the star attraction, other pieces on the block include the F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance that was a gift from his late wife -

Courtesy of Phillips

In addition to these two unicorns, there is a pair of Pateks, a Blancpain, a Breguet, and an IWC.

If you are reading this, it is likely that you are at least at some level interested in watches. And perhaps this is just little me shouting into the void, but it's hard not to be romantic about watches. And regardless of the circumstances, this is an opportunity for folks out there who love watches and are fans of Mr. Coppola's work to own something special.

One final thought - and this is my own story. Back in 1992 I had been struggling for more than a year to find steady work and settle down after finishing university. I had moved to three states in less than a years time still hoping something was going to click. I was living in a room that I paid for by the week. I had sold almost everything of value I had left, save my grandmother's Omega watch. By some small miracle I was offered a teaching job in Japan. I leveraged literally everything I had left except my university ring, a few pairs of jeans, a pair of sneakers, some cds, and a bag to carry it all in. I bought a used suit for my new job, and needed a few hundred dollars more to be "safe" in my new job (I needed to buy my air ticket and have 1 month's living expenses). So down I went to the pawn shop, and my inheritance funded the last piece of my financial puzzle.

Since 1992 I have bought and sold countless watches hoping to get that same feeling that I had for a mid-sized Omega quartz watch that I wore maybe two times. I still haven't gotten there. But the idea that it is possibly still out there holds me in thrall.

In a long career Mr. Coppola has failed, recovered, prospered, and failed. And in fairness, doesn't that seem familiar to all of us?

A Summer Day Dream - What If?

Author's note - what follows is purely fanciful speculation based on nothing other than the whimsical musings of an horological raconteur during the very slow summer watch maker's holiday. None of it is based on anything other than my rather vivid (and sometimes undernourished) imagination. It is intended solely and completely as entertainment.

What if...

Rolex Bought Patek 

I know, sounds pretty nutty, but as summer daydreams go, it's got a bit of a toothsome quality to it.  Remember a few years ago when Stern the Younger floated the idea of possibly selling Patek?  Well, in the interest of summer fantasies, what if Rolex sacked up, and bought Patek?  Now I don't claim to be any sort of authority on Swiss law or the rules of business governance, but as both are private companies, would either be required to acknowledge such a sale/acquisition to anyone other than their board/s?

More to the point, of ANY other independent brand out there, in terms of how they position themselves, communicate with the press, and do business, it's hard to imagine 2 corporate cultures that could be any more similar (and hence easy to integrate if even "unofficially").  

I know, it's a crazy idea...

What if...

The Hayek Family Ceded Control of the Swatch Group 

While the sky isn't necessarily falling, Swatch Group has not enjoyed the most "amazing" years recently. Moreover, as it is a publicly traded company/group of companies, it would seem that a leadership position in one of the "jewels" of the group seems to be predicated on a DNA Olympics of sorts, in which being born with a last name that starts with H and ends with K appears to be the surest path to running one of the world's 10 most important brands (Breguet, Blancpain). While Omega has a CEO swimming in a different genetic pool, Blancpain and Breguet were both being run by Hayek the Even Younger. I have never met Marc Hayek, but from all I've heard he's a perfectly nice guy and as far as I can tell, he did not crash Blancpain (in charge since 2002) or Breguet (in charge since 2010) during his stewardship of both brands. Which begs the question - why now? As there do not appear to have been any significant seismic shifts (either positive or negative) why now? Official news teased its way out initially on the 12th, and in depth on Friday that  Lionel a Marca would be taking the helm from Marc Hayek, who would be remaining as "President" of Breguet.  

There does seem to be a "Dear Leader" approach to succession plans within the group. Could this mean that Hayek the Even Younger is about to be kicked upstairs and take the big wheel? As there has been no clear or obvious attempts to develop any significant leaders within the group who are not named Hayek to take over some day, my Summer Daydream leads me to wonder if this is no daydream at all and Marc Hayek is about to be promoted again.

What if...

Swatch Group Returned to BaselWorld

In what would be perhaps the most "Baller" move ever, Swatch Group agrees to come back to BaselWorld, but only if they take a partial ownership in the fair and a few board seats at MCH. In some ways they might have already shown some of their cards. They had planned to bring three or so of their less "well-heeled" brands to Las Vegas (which if we're being honest, is a watch show that should be put out of its, and our collective misery). Now with the Delta variant spreading COVID faster than swinging couples spread syphilis, gonorrhea and unplanned pregnancies at Plato's Retreat circa 1976, it now seems unlikely that this will happen as Nevada is an exceedingly "Hot" location, and I'm not talking about the gambling, legal prostitution and all you can eat buffets. Several brands have already reversed course and are not going to be attending. So whether or not the three ships of the mighty Swatch regatta will dock in Sin City remains to be seen, but despite the power of my Summer Daydream, I tend to think maybe not.

The INSTANTANÉE S&A x LIP

I love Lip watches. I make absolutely no attempt to hide this. I am very, very biased. And I'm okay with that.

And that's why my eyes just about shot out of my head early this morning when this crept across my Instagram feed -

Courtesy of Lip

Lip is famous for it's so-called "double-label" watches, watches made in partnership with other brands. Some examples include Blancpain, Breitling and now...

Courtesy of Lip

Semper & Adhuc!

Courtesy of Semper & Adhuc

For those of you just turning in, Semper & Adhuc is a wonderful French microbrand based in the Southwest of France. And what I love about Semper & Adhuc is that they are keeping it real using rescued French movements, cases and crowns from nearby in Sigoulès, hands from Morteau, and on and on. Long story short? C'est français!

But back to the INSTANTANÉE S&A x LIP -

Courtesy of Lip

The case is of stainless steel and measures 37 mm in diameter.

Courtesy of Lip

Under the hood is a R100 movement that has been restored.

Courtesy of Lip

This is one of those very rare chances to get something very, very special on your wrist! It is limited to 20 pieces ONLY. This is a pre-order item, and is priced at €2,400.00

Here are the pertinents -

LIMITED EDITION 20 COPIES

PRE-ORDER NOW - ESTIMATED DELIVERY SEPTEMBER

An Outstanding Model

The Instant LIP by S&A is a 50-year-old French LIP movement at the heart of a new Semper & Adhuc watch. This model also marks the big comeback of the double signature of the dial. In fact, in the past, the house of LIP had already had the opportunity to sign dials side by side with other brands as prestigious as Blancpain, Dugena, Ericson and Breitling.

An Unexpected Collaboration

"I am very proud to be able to present this watch to you, which in my eyes represents a crucial step in my career as a watchmaker, collector and entrepreneur, as well as one more step for the Semper & Adhuc workshop towards the court. big ones".

Colin de Tonnac

Instant S&A x LIP
Case:
316 L steel, diameter 37 mm, distance between the lugs 44.5 mm, case back in tempered mineral glass for the eyecup

Dial:
gray white and pink

Crystal:
sapphire

Strap:
charcoal split leather, vegetable tanned goat lining, 18mm

Buckle:
pin

Movement:
mechanical R100 restored, 17 jewels, 21,600 vibrations per hour, power reserve 38 h, diameter 6 '' (13.5 mm), thickness 3.3 mm

Water Resistance:
30 meters

Limited edition of 20 numbered pieces

2 year warranty

Made in France - Besançon

How The Statue of Liberty Play Could Save BaselWorld

Now for readers not familiar with American (i.e. not Association or Rugby or Australian) Football, take a quick moment to view the clip below before moving forward -


For those of you who want even more detail -
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Statue_of_Liberty_play

In soccer (Association Football) you would probably compare it with the Cruyff Turn -

And for those of you unfamiliar wanting more background -
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cruyff_Turn

Essentially, it is a sleight of hand or misdirection to create an opportunity when your opponent is looking the other way.

So what do trick plays in sports have to do with what was the world's most important watch show?

Well, imagine if you will, a world where MCH (i.e. BaselWorld) realized that desperate times would require desperate measures.  And then, imagine, if you will, a group that has not been as successful in recent times as it had in the past.  A group that would say jump, and other groups, brands, retailers and pretty much every journalist in the world would ask - "How high?" that now is isolated and on its own.  Switzerland is a pretty large Monopoly board, and even though logic would lead you to believe that the natural choice would be to head to Geneva, the reality is that Hall 1 could sufficiently host SWATCH and all of the other independent brands that have now been left behind. 

This would, of course, be the ultimate Statue of Liberty play.  It would require MCH to reach out to SWATCH and offer a true partnership.  Now the obvious argument would be that without Patek, Rolex, and LVMH there is nothing left in the fair.  Well, maybe yes and maybe no.  Consider other groups (Festina, Movado) who left the fair in the past, that if the environment was a bit more inviting, and the associated fees more realistic, they might consider coming back.  I have gone to a LOT of BaselWorld fairs.  There have been a LOT of brands that have been in and out and in the fair again.  A fair with just the folks left behind is not going to attract much of anyone, particularly if BaselWorld sticks to the proposed dates of January/February.  

But, what if Hayek the younger has been sitting in Biel, quietly calculating just such a move? Stranger things have happened.  And in truth?  We passed strange globally about 6 weeks ago.

I realize it's a wild, hare-brained theory, but what if?

The Success of Biver - a Possible Alternative Theory

I am going to kick this off with a fairly basic 
thesis -
In terms of the watch business, nobody has had a bigger influence, caused a greater paradigm shift, and captured more of the watch world's attention than Jean-Claude Biver.  In many ways, and particularly in light of the latest quagmire that SWATCH and the Hayek heirs are currently dog-paddling in, I feel particularly comfortable with this statement.  I further feel empowered to say this as on a personal level, as I know that he is no great fan of mine.  So while this is not coming from a place of ambivalence, it is also not coming from a 
brownie-hound ; )

I just finished watching a film on Amazon - In Search of Greatness -
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8236398/

It intertwines quite neatly with David Epstein's book -

Range: Why Generalists Triumph in a Specialized World

Mr. Epstein also features fairly heavily in the film.

If, like most of us, find yourself with some free time in the upcoming days and weeks, I encourage you to check both out.  What both the film and the book focus on is that contrary to popular belief, some of the most successful adult athletes did not specialize or focus too specifically on their ultimate sport until much later than most people would assume.

Okay, so what's that got to do with Jean-Claude Biver and watches?  Well, if you really think about it, Mr. Biver did not over-specialize.  Simply put, he dipped his toe in several different pools within the watch industry.  Sales, marketing, etc.

One thing that the watch business seems to be quite keen on, is to continually promote sales people into management, and even offer them the head chair at the big table.  And what the success of Jean-Claude Biver and the lack thereof for several "specialists" is testament to, is the fact that in an age of over-specialization, the generalists tend to find more success.  Now, this is not to say that Mr. Biver is a novice or a neophyte by any stretch of the imagination.  And in many ways he has been a true pioneer.  What it is to say, is that the success of Mr. Biver, and ultimately the brands that he oversaw, was an open attitude because he was not restrained or confined by dogma, habit or specialization.  Some of it, like at Blancpain and later Hublot?  He had to make up as he went.

Specialists have failed, or at least not seen the same level of success for myriad reasons.  And it is also fair to say that Mr. Biver's success was also due to a myriad of reasons.

1.  Curiosity - he clearly had the desire to try several different things.

2.  Ambition - he wanted to have his own brand.

3.  Luck - Blancpain was available, and he had the vision to see that bridging a dormant brand with an active movement maker, Blancpain would be something different.

4.  Vision - he was willing to see beyond the obvious.

5.  Persistence - he could have retired and lived off his savings a long time ago, but he kept coming back.

Very clearly, Mr. Biver is not someone you come across every day in any industry.  He is, however, a great example of the triumph of the non-specialist.

I Could Do It Better Myself! The Brand CEO

Or, a cautionary tale on the realities of the watch business.

In a former life, I was not in the watch business on any level whatsoever.  I bought the three US based watch magazines with the same fervor of an 8 year old buying baseball cards.  Okay, that example might be out of date, but take your young child's current enthusiasm and insert it here ; )

When you admire a business or industry from afar, it is quite easy to see things through rose-colored glasses.  A good friend of mine dreamed of working for a European based professional cycling team.  He wanted to be the guy who was there at the finish line to assist the next Bernard Hinault off his bike at a stage finish of the Tour de France.  After three years of living in shitty hotels around the world, multiple cases of bronchitis, a failed marriage (former wife left him for a barista. To paraphrase "at least he had a steady job and was home on weekends") and getting a good scare after getting jabbed by an IV bag's bloody, used needle, he realized that $50,000 a year was not worth it.  Reflecting back, he did have the ability to curse in French, Portuguese, Italian, Spanish, Dutch and one other language that he still can't identify, some scratched-up water bottles, and a signed jersey from a race winner in some minor,  Eastern European stage race that is no longer in existence.  His former wife earned an MBA and that former Barista now works for a well-respected NGO in micro finance, and has given a well-received TED Talk.

But let's get back to watches.  Despite the fact that I have no hesitation to call bullshit on certain situations, I suffer no delusions as to the difficulty of trying to run, or even work for a brand.  Today, let's start at the top and think about that rockstar - the CEO.

As has been mentioned before, the late 90s and early oughts brought with them the era of the watch brand CEO as rock star. We all know that Biver was Blancpain, Omega then Hublot. We know that Frederique Constant are led by the Stas family, and that Thierry Stern is the latest (and perhaps last) Stern family member that will helm the ship.  Now in most other industries, a CEO is, well, just not that sexy.  For whatever reason (and we all theorize about it) watch CEOs suddenly became not only relevant, but exciting!  And for better or worse, that has been steadily changing over the past few years.  And with it we have seen some pretty dramatic falls from some pretty lofty heights.

As armchair experts, we assume that as a CEO you live a pretty easy, idyllic life -

You roll into the office at around 10:00 AM, traipse through the production facility wishing all of the watchmakers well, grab the paper and plop your feet up on your desk as an espresso magically appears at your side.  You might then speak briefly with a sales manager hearing the wonderful results, then you saunter down to the executive dining room for lunch.  After lunch you're off to the airport where a private jet whisks you off to Italy for a photo-op with your favorite footballer who trades you a signed jersey for a (retail) $20,000 watch. You have a lovely early dinner with said star, team president and other hangers-on.  Then back to the private jet that whisks you home, where your stunning (not-so-age appropriate) partner is waiting for you wearing little more than a smile.  

This is, of course, all bullshit.

So I thought I would share with you a montage of of the Swiss and Japanese CEO's I have worked with and give you a sense of what their day was like:

4:15 - rudely awakened by a random call from an overseas sales manager who despite working for a company that manufactures, markets and sells wrist watches, has still not grasped the concept of international time zones.  But what can you do?  He's the nephew of one of your Board members.

6:00 - after stealing back 15 - 20 minutes of sleep, you have to get up, put on your track suit and take the dog out before you have another unfortunate incident that will require strong cleaning products to remedy if you don't get the puppy on the leash and out into the garden in the next 45, 44, 43 seconds!

6:20 - you made the mistake of bringing your cell phone with you on the walk which is now taking longer than usual as you have a call from the head of assembly, informing you that there was a leak in the lavatory that has now seeped down into the workshop.  You are now really regretting not selling the beautiful old workshop (great for photo opportunities and media "moments" but your watchmakers hate it) when you were approached by that smooth talking, but slightly dodgy real-estate agent who was shopping on the behalf of a very wealthy client hailing from a former Soviet Republic/Stan, who could not be named, but who you suspect belongs to a "fraternal" organization made up of other mysterious fellows that is not the Elks or the Masons.  

7:15 - chasing the kids to hurry up and get ready!  Your partner has already left for work, and today's your day to get the children to their three different schools which are, you guessed it, in three different villages.

8:20 - all three now safely deposited at their institutions of learning, you work the phone (via your hands-free set-up) as you drive on to the office.  No work has taken place in the workshop.  The plumber is, apparently, on vacation in Majorca, and you are now reaching out to a regional assembler to see if they can help you out in the short term by handling the assembly of a week's worth of production.

8:55 - you sprint past the main entry way where you clap eyes on the journalist who is there for an interview (set to start in five, no make that four minutes).  Brief pleasantries are exchanged, and you make your way to one of the conference rooms.  This is the same room that was used for the company yoga class last night, and is still a wee-bit "aromatic" this morning.  

9:05 - after apologizing for the absence of a coffee (nobody remembered to order more Nespressso pods), you begin the dog and pony show with the journalist who you realize is just slightly older than your eldest child, and might be finally old enough to vote in their first election this year.  Halfway through the interview/inquisition you are then treated to the sales pitch from said journalist who presents you with a rate card for today's interview.  If you want it to run beyond their instagram feed, it will cost X.  You make a mental note to cancel the lunch reservation and wrap this up as quickly as possible.  A "goodie bag" is assembled and passed over, and you move onto the next hurdle.

10:45 - Regional Assembler owner calls to inform you that they are "SLAMMED" with orders from (Regional Assembler begins to drop big, expensive names), but maybe you could meet at the most expensive restaurant near his shop to discuss the possibilities over lunch?

11:05 - after reviewing the plumbing situation, you call your brother-in-law who you remember did a 6 month apprenticeship back in the 80s, and might be able to help out.

11:50 - you remember that tomorrow is the board meeting.  You put together a shopping list for food and beverages, and NESPRESSO PODS, Dammit!

12:30 - you arrive at the most expensive restaurant near the assembler's shop to find the assembler and someone who is very clearly not his wife sharing the remains of a not inexpensive bottle of champagne.  You do the mental math and realize that you probably never should have called him in the first place.  Your guests order half the menu, you order a cup of soup and still water, trying to figure out how to explain this to your accounting department.  In the end, apologies all around, but we're just too busy to help you.  "But we should do this again some time!"

2:43 - back at the workshop, your brother in law is on the scene, has somehow managed to field strip the leaky joint, run out to the local Home Depot, purchased the requisite replacement gaskets, re-assembled the connection, flushed the pipes and...
Good as new!  He even grabs a mop to help the cleaning crew clean up the mess!  You make a mental note, contact the purchasing office and - with your own money - buy him a new watch with your company discount.  Thank you's are exchanged and you make plans for him and his family to come over at the weekend.  All is right with the world... for now.

4:45 - after about a ZILLION calls from overseas agents, you then have your meeting with the marketing department who are very, very keen to make a regional F3 racer a brand ambassador.  You google the name and realize that said F3 racer is the godson of your head of marketing.  You keep your poker face, and suggest a follow-up meeting about it next week.

8:30 - You have nearly finished preparing your presentation for the board meeting tomorrow night, your partner calls to ask you if you could please pick up your middle child who missed the bus after her karate class.  So you gather up a few files, grab your shopping list for tomorrow, grab your laptop and head to your car, your daughter, and finally - home.

Yes, it's not all glamour ; )

Winter Repeat - What I've Learned

I first ran this a little less than two years ago and it seemed a good time to air it out again.

What I've Learned

Despite some pretty dubious watch coverage, I still really enjoy Esquire and I am a big fan of their "What I've Learned" interview segments.  So given some recent interactions I've had both in person and online, and considering that if I count back to when I first stepped behind the counter at Tourneau in San Francisco, I've been "in the game" for 15 years now, I thought it might be fun to put out my own "What I've Learned" piece.  So, gentle reader, here is some of what 
I've learned -

For some outlets, nothing is ever really free.

Now in fairness, people who write about watches are largely divided into two groups:

Those who do it out of passion alone, and those who do it for a living.  Quick note, nothing 

wrong with doing it for a living.  Of the second group, some do it for a living, but are still

passionate about what they do, and actually consider writing about a watch, a brand, 

a watch maker WITHOUT asking for payment (be it advertising, sponsored posts, outright payola) 

first.  For those of your out there in the marketing departments - if your going to spend

marketing money, then spend it on people out there writing about things that they

are passionate about, not just what they are being paid for.


While it is true that Hayek saved the Swiss Watch industry, Jean-Claude Biver would have still kicked ass with Blancpain and would have lived happily ever after either way.

I was there before Hublot became what they would become.  
I am still here now that it is a somewhat bumbling PR gas factory that, apparently, also makes watches.  Although I know that I have the ability to highly irritate him, I have a great deal of respect for Jean-Claude Biver.  But now is the time to start thinking about legacy.  About what happens when he is no longer there.  Jean-Claude Biver is a very, very impressive man.  He has done some very amazing things. Here's hoping it doesn't get washed away.

When a brand manager or CEO asks you "How are you my friend?"  The translation of that is - "how you doing, asshole?"

Brand managers, CEOs, PR people?  By and large, they are not your friends. No offense intended to brand managers, CEOs or PR people ; ). But be honest with yourself, you're not likely to be invited to their kid's wedding. Don't delude yourself to the contrary.  You might get lucky with a few - and I have, but the true friends will reveal themselves over time, and they are the ones you should always make time for at BaselWorld.

Having said all that - sometimes you will, despite your compulsion to serve up cold cups of coffee, find some true friends and supporters in some very unexpected places.

You will learn to see when people are genuine.  Hold onto those people like a non-treatable social disease.  They have every reason to dislike you based on what you write or say, and yet they are your audience.  And they are your friends indeed.

Rich, famous, important people - are a lot less interesting when you finally meet them.

Little known piece of Henki lore, my father was a country club manager.  Translation?  He worked so that the more well-heeled could play.  I worked in the locker room of the club, my first job working as a shoe shine guy.  Believe it or not, in the 70s and 80s, there was an actual industry based upon shining the shoes of rich people while they walked around a park-like environment, drinking beer and whacking small white balls.  Rich people, famous people?  They are people.  George Steinbrenner was a titan of industry and master manipulator.  I can tell you from personal experience, his shoes smelled just as awful as an orthodontist, dermatologist or mid-level auto executive's.   The one thing all four of these guys had in common?  They were shitty tippers.

I have met some of the big swinging dicks of the industry.  It is all too often underwhelming.

When anyone tells you how amazing you are and how "just as soon as you take advertising, we're in!"  this person should be taken with about as much seriousness as you would take the drunk person asking for $3 on the commuter train so that they can "buy a healthy snack".

We all say a lot of highly dubious stuff when we've been drinking.  That's why your wife/husband/partner learns over the years to apply the bullshit filter.  Make sure you do the same, it will spare you a fair amount of frustration and disappointment.

When you have made it clear by your actions, your writing, and your passion that you are predisposed to write nice things about a brand, and said brand treats you with a fair amount of indifference?  Take it on the heel and toe.  Love needs to be reciprocal.

I am still somewhat miffed by my interaction with a certain member of the SWATCH group.  I gave up a Thanksgiving holiday, spent several hundred dollars of my own money to interview their CEO, and then watched as the outlet that they were on retainer with got so-called "exclusives", review opportunities, etc., and I got the cold shoulder.   To this day, I have no doubt that the North American brand manager of SWATCH GROUP brand X just thinks that I am a difficult person.  But in fairness?  If someone is willing to give you so much for NOTHING?  You can spare a little time and a little effort.  And for what it's worth?  In speaking with retail partners of SWATCH GROUP brand X, they are not exactly selling like the waffle's sexier cousin - the hotcake.

Brands are made up of people.  The brand does not exist without the people.  If a brand has good people - I will do ALL that I can.  If a brand has people that just don't care?  Why should I care about them?

I get the odd comment - "I thought you were a fan of Brand A".  Well, I have come to learn that brands are made of people.  It's not as if the founders of Girard-Perregaux are going to make a special appearance in the physical world to tour me around the factory.  The brand?  The brand is the people who work there.  So put it in another context - do you like spending time with people who treat you poorly?  Of course you don't.  Molly Ringwald's entire career was based on this notion.  A watch is an inanimate object.  It can't speak for itself.  A brand is not simply products.  A brand is the people who make those products, and share that message.   

Brand ambassadors are about as worthwhile as what you wipe your backside with.

There is a reason why Hitler, Stalin and Pol Pot are not mentioned as customers of Brand X.  

Churchill, Napoleon, Lindbergh?  All flawed, all now "ambassadors" from the great beyond.  Well, they won, didn't they? They were all flawed, all had baggage. But they are a whole lot more palatable.  

Question - do you think that the Mario Batali Ernst Benz is a big seller right now?  

Sorry, too soon? 

A brand ambassador will not be there with you when they turn out the lights and escort you out of your now former office.  A former brand that was "ALL IN" can attest to that.

Remember everyone you meet when times are good.  You will see them again on your way back down.  

It is inevitable to fail.  The trick is not to make a habit of it.  More importantly?  Don't be a jackass when times are good.  Sooner or later, it is likely you will fail.  By and large, most of us want to help people and offer our support.  That is, of course, presuming that person behaved, well, like a person when times were good ; )

Don't fake the funk 

Because in the immortal words of that other great commentator on the watch industry Daryl Dawkins:
“When everything is said and done there is nothing left to do or say.” 

Waiting for Biver... The Over/Under

So despite what you might have read in another well-known outlet, I am more and more of the belief that the rumors I heard simmering while I was in Switzerland a few weeks ago are perhaps more accurate than the posturing of a self-proclaimed authority.

You may remember such Biver "Farewell to Arms" platitudes as:

Leaving and focusing on passing on my knowledge.

Ending retirement to come back and run Tag Heuer.

Focusing on trying to save Zenith.

Leaving for health reasons.

And the most recent - 

I am really not coming back.

And... needless to say, some of us long term Biver watchers are not 100% convinced that this is really going to be it.  

I am taking the "under" on this one, and guessing that he is going to be back sooner rather than later.  

As I get older, and my father's own mortality recedes farther and farther behind me in the rear view mirror, I have come to realize that what spouses and family members often categorize and label as a character flaw (being a workaholic) is, in fact, just someone who is (to some extent) in love with work.  That perhaps their work defines (at least to them) who they are.  That work for them is not just an activity, but a state of mind, which in turn is a state of being.

I don't claim to know or understand Mr. Biver any more than I know or understand the guy on the corner who asks me for my spare change.  Not unlike Ralph Lauren there is a very public Mr. Biver, and another guy who runs watch brands.  And in fairness, we all of us have some sort of duality of self.  I think what I am saying is that the watch game is (I suspect) a bit too ingrained into his persona for him to completely walk away.  The ties with LVMH have a few months to go until they are completely severed.  And I think we will see him again.  Now whether that is as the person who will shepherd a Patek change of ownership, the father who will help his son launch or take over his own brand, or simply launch a new thing completely his own without taking over?  Well that part still remains to be fleshed out.

And then again?  Maybe he really means it this time and he is done.
  
We shall wait, and we shall see.

Overtime with the Siduna M3440 Professional Compax Chronograph

Editor's note - this review originally began the week before I left for BaselWorld, and I wore the Siduna during the fair alternating between my Minase 5 Windows and my Sartory Billard.  I then wore it for an additional 2 weeks following the fair.

Since the announcement of the launch of the new and improved Siduna, I have been very anxious to get my hands on one and put it through its paces.  As I was getting packed-up and ready for BaselWorld, the folks at Siduna asked if I'd like to take one of their new chronographs for a test drive during the fair, and so I took the M3440 along with me.

During the fair, I wore a few different watches, and as I was "working" on behalf of Minase and Sartory Billard, I wore those watches while on duty at The HYPE.  But I switched to the Siduna M3440 for my time inside Hall 1 and other press appointments.  

Now as my photography skills are, I have been led to understand, somewhat lacking, here is a nice shot directly from Siduna so you get a flavor for the M3440 -

Courtesy of Siduna

So you get the idea.  I got a lot of double-takes and comments like -
"I thought you were a social worker, how'd you afford a Type XX", etc.  Upon closer examination, several people were struck by the level of finish, as well as the look and feel of the watch itself.  

Well, let's get back to the review itself -

I will concur with my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estates on the build quality of the M3440.  It is first rate.  The case is definitely in the "Godilocks" category when it comes to size - it is just right.  It measures 40 mm in diameter, with a case height (or thickness) of 16.1 mm.  The unidirectional bezel extends slightly beyond the confines of the case diameter, measuring 42 mm in diameter.

(apologies for the dust spots, I did not give the watch a complete wipe-down for each photo).

The watch has presence, but I don't feel like a poser wearing it.  It is a "wrist-appropriate" size.  And although it has some stature owing to its height on the wrist, it is nothing to forbidding.

The case itself is of stainless steel, austenitic stainless steel to be more precise.  And just what is austenitic stainless steel?  Well, per Wikipedia:

Due to their crystalline structure austenitic steels are not hardenable by heat treatment and are essentially non-magnetic

Now before everyone goes off having a Eureka moment, let's just clarify that 316l falls into this category.  But it is still kind of a fun way to describe the steel type as opposed to the typical numeric designation.

The case back is solid, not a display back and I am profoundly grateful for that.  It maintains true to the overall aesthetic and the original inspiration for the watch.

And just what is the inspiration?  Well, curious to relate, Siduna is now based in Sweden.  But it wasn't always so.  Siduna started out life as a Swiss brand, and then it went the way of so many, shuttering due to the decline of the mechanical watch business.  But  Siduna then found a new home in Sweden and recently the brand changed hands one last time and is now back in business and making watches.  The case of the M3440 is based on a somewhat "standard" case of it's time, incorporated into a watch that was used by the Svenska Flygvapnet (that's Swedish Air Force to you) in 1973.  The original design, per Siduna, was from Ervin Piquerez's SA design, circa 1968. And if it bears similarities to cases of the same era from Breguet, Heuer, Lemania and Bucherer (among others) that is because it was a pretty standard solution.  

The bi-compax chronograph ran smoothly, re-setting was tactile and precise.  The time keeping beyond reproach, in short?  Everything worked as advertised.

The movement is based on the Valjoux's 7750, and again, before all the Pointdexters out there feel the need to express their expertise on this matter, and how it couldn't possibly be, blah, blah, blah...
Relax, it is not exactly an "off the shelf" solution.  In Siduna's own words -

Our movements are based on an automatic ETA 7750 with Top finishing. They undergo several substantial modifications in a small workshop from La Chaux-de-Fonds, such as the removal of the date mechanism and the relocation of the minutes subsidiary dial from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock thanks to a proprietary module, and an upgrade to blue screws. The calibre 13 Phi received additional modifications on the back side to add the fly-back function.

The crown is screw down, and bears the markings of the famous (albeit esoteric) Compressor model that was, you guessed it, produced by Piquerez.  And for those of you so inclined, a pretty solid piece of research on the subject can be found here -
https://medium.com/sidunawatch/piquerez-from-drivers-to-pilot-watches-961957c25d5d?fbclid=IwAR0na59MUz1ZIzwBzRHNlAMsfm-yQtb5kUv-ws-Kv-6SXmFyhsjr0Z2DAiI

But, important to note that although the crown bears the markings of the Compressor, it is not the same function, it is aesthetic, but I think pays a nice, subtle homage to the original case.

Now last, but not least?  The strap!  The strap is a very, very nice bit of kit!  This one is the Havana Brown version.  Curious to relate, it was a very comfortable strap right out of the box, whereas some straps can be a bit stiff even after the "get ready roll" -

So here's a friendly tip from your old pal Henki, who learned it from his old pal Rod:  if you have a strap that you feel is too stiff (calfskin!  I would not necessarily recommend this approach with anything exotic), simply roll the strap ends up like a tube of toothpaste.  And boom!  You're ready to rock!  The strap itself was smooth, supple and extremely well finished.  The perfect pairing to the M3440.  It is completed with a signed Siduna buckle -

Quite smashing!

But just to keep things interesting, I had pre-ordered an Erika's Original strap  -

And Erika herself delivered it to me in Basel!

It gave a fun bit of twist to an already super-dope watch!

And for those of you unfamiliar, the straps made by Erika's Originals are The Shit That Killed Elvis!  Yes, they are that good.  Throw away your shitty old NATOs and get ahold of the real thing!

Back to the M3440, here are the pertinents, direct from Siduna -

DIMENSIONS 

• Bezel diameter 42.0 mm
• Lug width 20.0 mm
• Case thickness 16.1 mm

MECHANICAL MOVEMENT

• ETA/Valjoux 7750 base
• Thickness 7.9 mm
• Self-winding mechanism
• 25 bearing synthetic rubies
• 28'800 alternances per hour (4 Hz)
• Seconds stop
• ISO 764 Anti-Magnetic
• ISO 1413 Shock-Resistant

CASE

• Austenic stainless steel, satin brushed
• Double-domed aspheric sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on the inside
• Screw-down case back, individually numbered
• Screw-down crown
• ISO 22810 Water-Resistant
• Pressure-resistant to 10 bar

FUNCTIONS

• Hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds
• 30 minutes and ¼ seconds chronograph

DIAL AND HANDS

• Matte black dial with recessed subsidiary dials
• 5 minutes indices with Super-LumiNova® BL C3 Grade A
• Numerals with Super-LumiNova® BL C3 Grade A
• Hour and minute hand coated with Super-LumiNova® BL C3 Grade A

LIMITED WARRANTY

• 2 years

The M3440 is also available in a Flyback version, the one I wore and reviewed is the standard.  Both are extremely well priced, with the Compax priced at € 1,480 without VAT.  It gets a very solid two thumbs up from this reviewer, without a doubt one of the best automatic chronographs I have worn in some time.