Showing posts with label Ernst Benz. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ernst Benz. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 14, 2020

Winter Repeat - What I've Learned

I first ran this a little less than two years ago and it seemed a good time to air it out again.

What I've Learned

Despite some pretty dubious watch coverage, I still really enjoy Esquire and I am a big fan of their "What I've Learned" interview segments.  So given some recent interactions I've had both in person and online, and considering that if I count back to when I first stepped behind the counter at Tourneau in San Francisco, I've been "in the game" for 15 years now, I thought it might be fun to put out my own "What I've Learned" piece.  So, gentle reader, here is some of what 
I've learned -

For some outlets, nothing is ever really free.


Now in fairness, people who write about watches are largely divided into two groups:
Those who do it out of passion alone, and those who do it for a living.  Quick note, nothing 
wrong with doing it for a living.  Of the second group, some do it for a living, but are still
passionate about what they do, and actually consider writing about a watch, a brand, 
a watch maker WITHOUT asking for payment (be it advertising, sponsored posts, outright payola) 
first.  For those of your out there in the marketing departments - if your going to spend
marketing money, then spend it on people out there writing about things that they
are passionate about, not just what they are being paid for.


While it is true that Hayek saved the Swiss Watch industry, Jean-Claude Biver would have still kicked ass with Blancpain and would have lived happily ever after either way.

I was there before Hublot became what they would become.  
I am still here now that it is a somewhat bumbling PR gas factory that, apparently, also makes watches.  Although I know that I have the ability to highly irritate him, I have a great deal of respect for Jean-Claude Biver.  But now is the time to start thinking about legacy.  About what happens when he is no longer there.  Jean-Claude Biver is a very, very impressive man.  He has done some very amazing things. Here's hoping it doesn't get washed away.

When a brand manager or CEO asks you "How are you my friend?"  The translation of that is - "how you doing, asshole?"

Brand managers, CEOs, PR people?  By and large, they are not your friends. No offense intended to brand managers, CEOs or PR people ; ). But be honest with yourself, you're not likely to be invited to their kid's wedding. Don't delude yourself to the contrary.  You might get lucky with a few - and I have, but the true friends will reveal themselves over time, and they are the ones you should always make time for at BaselWorld.


Having said all that - sometimes you will, despite your compulsion to serve up cold cups of coffee, find some true friends and supporters in some very unexpected places.

You will learn to see when people are genuine.  Hold onto those people like a non-treatable social disease.  They have every reason to dislike you based on what you write or say, and yet they are your audience.  And they are your friends indeed.

Rich, famous, important people - are a lot less interesting when you finally meet them.

Little known piece of Henki lore, my father was a country club manager.  Translation?  He worked so that the more well-heeled could play.  I worked in the locker room of the club, my first job working as a shoe shine guy.  Believe it or not, in the 70s and 80s, there was an actual industry based upon shining the shoes of rich people while they walked around a park-like environment, drinking beer and whacking small white balls.  Rich people, famous people?  They are people.  George Steinbrenner was a titan of industry and master manipulator.  I can tell you from personal experience, his shoes smelled just as awful as an orthodontist, dermatologist or mid-level auto executive's.   The one thing all four of these guys had in common?  They were shitty tippers.

I have met some of the big swinging dicks of the industry.  It is all too often underwhelming.

When anyone tells you how amazing you are and how "just as soon as you take advertising, we're in!"  this person should be taken with about as much seriousness as you would take the drunk person asking for $3 on the commuter train so that they can "buy a healthy snack".

We all say a lot of highly dubious stuff when we've been drinking.  That's why your wife/husband/partner learns over the years to apply the bullshit filter.  Make sure you do the same, it will spare you a fair amount of frustration and disappointment.

When you have made it clear by your actions, your writing, and your passion that you are predisposed to write nice things about a brand, and said brand treats you with a fair amount of indifference?  Take it on the heel and toe.  Love needs to be reciprocal.

I am still somewhat miffed by my interaction with a certain member of the SWATCH group.  I gave up a Thanksgiving holiday, spent several hundred dollars of my own money to interview their CEO, and then watched as the outlet that they were on retainer with got so-called "exclusives", review opportunities, etc., and I got the cold shoulder.   To this day, I have no doubt that the North American brand manager of SWATCH GROUP brand X just thinks that I am a difficult person.  But in fairness?  If someone is willing to give you so much for NOTHING?  You can spare a little time and a little effort.  And for what it's worth?  In speaking with retail partners of SWATCH GROUP brand X, they are not exactly selling like the waffle's sexier cousin - the hotcake.

Brands are made up of people.  The brand does not exist without the people.  If a brand has good people - I will do ALL that I can.  If a brand has people that just don't care?  Why should I care about them?

I get the odd comment - "I thought you were a fan of Brand A".  Well, I have come to learn that brands are made of people.  It's not as if the founders of Girard-Perregaux are going to make a special appearance in the physical world to tour me around the factory.  The brand?  The brand is the people who work there.  So put it in another context - do you like spending time with people who treat you poorly?  Of course you don't.  Molly Ringwald's entire career was based on this notion.  A watch is an inanimate object.  It can't speak for itself.  A brand is not simply products.  A brand is the people who make those products, and share that message.   

Brand ambassadors are about as worthwhile as what you wipe your backside with.

There is a reason why Hitler, Stalin and Pol Pot are not mentioned as customers of Brand X.  

Churchill, Napoleon, Lindbergh?  All flawed, all now "ambassadors" from the great beyond.  Well, they won, didn't they? They were all flawed, all had baggage. But they are a whole lot more palatable.  

Question - do you think that the Mario Batali Ernst Benz is a big seller right now?  

Sorry, too soon? 

A brand ambassador will not be there with you when they turn out the lights and escort you out of your now former office.  A former brand that was "ALL IN" can attest to that.

Remember everyone you meet when times are good.  You will see them again on your way back down.  

It is inevitable to fail.  The trick is not to make a habit of it.  More importantly?  Don't be a jackass when times are good.  Sooner or later, it is likely you will fail.  By and large, most of us want to help people and offer our support.  That is, of course, presuming that person behaved, well, like a person when times were good ; )

Don't fake the funk 

Because in the immortal words of that other great commentator on the watch industry Daryl Dawkins:
“When everything is said and done there is nothing left to do or say.” 

Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Earth Shattering News from Ernst Benz!

Yeah, just kidding ; )

When in doubt, grab a co-branding partner and swing 'em round!

Courtesy of Ernst Benz
Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls -
The Camaro Fifty Scope from Ernst Benz.

Now in fairness to a LOT of people out there, the Chevrolet Camaro is a very popular piece of automotive iconography.  And having been in on many a pitch meeting myself for co-branded watches, I have no doubt the argument was compelling.  





But truth be told, apart from a disturbing dial and a rather ghostly Chevy logo on the back, this is essentially just like every other Enrst Benz to pop out of the chute.  Which, by the way, is fine.   
Just don't tell me it's different, edgy or bold.  It is a stock watch with a different dial and an overlay print on the back crystal.  And in fairness, if that is what the buying public is after, then Godspeed.

And at the low, low price of $5,700?

Sigh...


So no, this one is not for me.  But as ever, here are the pertinents and judge for yourselves -

CAMARO 50TH ANNIVERSARY 

Limited to 50 Pieces

CALIBER:
Automatic Valjoux 7750 Incabloc
Glucydur Balance
Nivarox Alloy Hairspring

FUNCTIONS:
Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary Seconds, Day and Date
Chronograph: Hours, Minutes and Central Seconds

CASE:
47mm Titanium Steel
47mm Brushed Stainless Steel
47mm Black
DLC Brushed Stainless Steel
Crown: Knurled, double O-ring sealed Crystal: Domed sapphire glass with
Exhibition back with sapphire glass
Water Resistant: 5 Atmospheres - 50m/165ft 


Monday, April 4, 2016

Something a Little Different

From Ernst Benz -
Courtesy of Ernst Benz
This one might not be everybody's first idea of an Ernst Benz.  And that is why it is so cool!  The dial is described as black abalone.

Under the hood it is exactly what you would expect -

ETA's Valjoux 7751 sets the pace offering hours, minutes, day and date as well as moon phase rounded out by the chronograph function.

And because one size does not necessarily fit all, it is available in 47, 44 and 40 mm options.

Here are the pertinents -

MODEL: GC10331
CALIBER: Automatic Valjoux 7751, Incabloc, Glucydur Balance, Nivarox Alloy Hairspring
FUNCTIONS: Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary seconds, Day, Date, Month, 24 hour display and Phases of the Moon.
CASE: 47mm polished stainless steel 
CROWN - Knurled, Double O-Ring sealed 
CRYSTAL - Domed Saphire Glass, Anti-reflective treatment on the lower side 
WATER RESISTANT to 5 Atmospheres, 50m/165ft. 
DIAL: Black Abalone w/Green luminous numerals 
STRAP: Handmade Alligator

Thursday, February 11, 2016

Ernst Benz & Anthony Liggins

A new collaboration between Ernst Benz and Anthony Liggins. 

Courtesy of Ernst Benz
These three pieces make up the Ernst Benz by Anthony Liggins collection.

Courtesy of Ernst Benz

Heres the scoop from the source -

The Art and Time project unfolded when Leonid Khankin, President and master watchmaker of Ernst Benz, met Anthony Liggins following the Miami Art Basel fair two years ago. Khankin was struck by an extraordinary painting that Liggins was preparing to ship out to a client. The immediate connection led to a discussion of art and watches resulting in the two working together to produce a limited edition series of timepieces featuring Anthony’s paintings. 

Courtesy of Ernst Benz
The fusion of Ernst Benz craftsmanship and Liggins’ creativity embodies their separate individual values and spirit while celebrating the concept of art and time with the dial of Ernst Benz’s signature 47mm sized case offering the ideal miniaturized canvas to show Liggins’ work. This unique timepiece series offers Liggins’ collectors and Ernst Benz enthusiasts a visual experience that allows them to admire the artwork while telling time. 

The Ernst Benz by Anthony Liggins collection is being produced as a limited edition 47mm ChronoSport with only 25 pieces of each of the three different versions, each showing signature Liggins’ paintings in shades of blue, red/brown and yellow. This special series will be available exclusively at the Anthony Liggins Gallery 88 in Miami and select Ernst Benz retailers.  


Thursday, November 12, 2015

The 18th Degree

From Ernst Benz -

Courtesy of Ernst Benz
This is a variation of the ChronoSport.  Hours, minutes, seconds, day and date.

The black on black version is available in 47 mm, the "parchment dial" versions are both available in 47 and 42 mm.


Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Keeping it Complicated

with Ernst Benz -

Ernst Benz make a lot of interesting watches, have a lot of interesting partnerships, and the man heading up this brand has A LOT OF POSITIVE ENERGY!

And while there has been a lot of talk about partnerships with rock stars, future "pro-bowlers" and a certain fashion designer who makes wonderful clothes that I am still 20 lbs. north of looking good in, I am frequently drawn back to their more traditional pieces.

This is the ChronoLunar Officer -

Courtesy of Ernst Benz
44 mm stainless steel case, Valjoux 7751 under the hood, and perhaps one of the most beautiful dials I have seen for this particular set-up. Several brands offer a watch based on this movement, but precious few take the time to do something beyond black ; ). The gold toned hands, indices and sub-dial rings are wonderfully different! This is a watch that will stand the test of time and be passed on from generation to generation. A watch that is of its time while being timeless. With this one, the team at Ernst Benz knocked it out of the park!

And a brief word about the team - I go to BaselWorld EVERY year.  And to be honest, I am starting to feel the need to keep a dossier on each brand so that I can update the frequent comings and goings. And in this, over my time covering watches, Ernst Benz has shown to be a truly unique brand in that it has managed maintain a core team from year to year.  They are cordial, professional and accommodating, which when dealing with some of the nastier spokespeople of the SWATCH Group  (yes Breguet, that means you) is an incredibly welcome breath of fresh air.  

Here are the details, and I am going to raid the piggy-bank:

SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL: GC40384
CALIBER: Automatic Valjoux 7751, Incabloc, Glucydur Balance, Nivarox Alloy Hairspring 
FUNCTIONS: Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary Seconds, Day, Date, Month, 24 hour display and Phases of the Moon. Chronograph: Hours, Minutes and Central Seconds 
CASE: 44mm polished stainless steel 
CROWN - knurled, double O-ring sealed 
CRYSTAL - domed sapphire glass with anti-reflective treatment on the lower side. 
WATER RESISTANT to 5 Atmospheres, 50m/165ft. 
DIAL: White w/Gold hands and numerals 
STRAP: Handmade Alligator





Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Monday, August 16, 2010

Twelve Faces of Time - Elizabeth Doerr

Sometimes, if you are very lucky, you stumble across something that speaks to you.  I love super-high-res-chock-full of technical details stories as much as the next guy, but in all honestly watches represent something more emotional to me.  I want to know about the people who made them, or who owned them.  I want to have an understanding of what motivated them.

I imagine some of the independent watchmakers as "philosopher-artist-engineers".  Yes, I realize that probably makes no sense at all, but when you take a moment and really consider everything that goes into some of these watches, you realize what an awesome task it must be to not merely create, but produce, market and ultimately sell them.  A time piece's ability to tell the time is just the starting point.  It has to captivate you on so many different levels.  It should be technically advanced, crafted by hand, accurate - and pleasing to look at!

Elizabeth Doerr's book captures what many of us have only been able to try to imagine.

This is a 200 + page trip to a special place - inside the ateliers of 12 of the world's most talented and innovative watch makers.

Elizabeth's new book had a US debut at the new Ernst Benz boutique a few weeks back with a well-attended launch party and book signing by the author.  I was unable to attend, but was fortunate enough to obtain a signed copy.  12 Faces of Time is a beautiful coffee-table book, full of compelling black and white images,  and written with such care and attention to detail that it truly takes you not just to another place, but in many ways another time.  

Keep up with Elizabeth via her Facebook page: