Moon Phase Mondays - Auguste Reymond Jazz Age

Well, if I am honest with myself, I have to admit that "Mido on Monday" was a bit of a stinker (Mido, you could have been less helpful, but I'm hard pressed to think of how that might be possible). So we will reload and try something new - 

Moon Phase on Monday

So to kick things off, my personal all-time favorite, and one that always brings a smile to face when I think back upon picking it up at the Auguste Reymond head office back when it was in Tramelan.

This is the Jazz Age Chronograph Moon Phase.  Truth be told, I was never a huge fan of the naming conventions for the models, but names aside it is a fantastic watch.

The case for some is "modest" in size at 37.6 mm in diameter, but that is all part of its allure.  It is exactly large enough to house the Valjoux 7751. While there are no dramatic flourishes in the movement's finish, it is respectable and reserved - which honestly is in keeping with Auguste Reymond's ethos.  

I love the coin edge side case and the onion crown.

The hinge lugs are "semi-modern" in that while they have the look and feel of the original type, they are governed by a spring bar meaning that you can opt for the 18 mm strap of your choice.  

Which as you can see I did with a custom made purple ostrich strap from Lic of Belgium.  Now a quick point for full disclosure - I did represent Auguste Reymond in North America a few years ago, and I do currently represent Lic straps. And while I don't currently represent Auguste Reymond, I am still a fan and a proud owner! And now that there is "newish" ownership, I have faith that some really good things might be coming from the brand now based in Nidau, and I promise to keep you posted!

In checking out the Auguste Reymond online shop, it seems that there might be a few of these available, so if you're so inclined I would advise you to move "sharpish".

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Case material 
Stainless steel

Crystal 
Domed sapphire

Case back 
Snap transparent

Water resistance 
3 bar (30m/100ft)

Case dimension (mm) 
37.6

Case thickness (mm) 
14.7

Strap width (mm) 
18/18

Movement type 
ETA Valjoux 7751

Power Reserve 
48 Hours

Strap 
Leather crocodile imitation

And until next time -

Don't let the moon phase you!

The Duobox Classic LE.5 Chronometer

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

Here are the pertinents -

CALIBER
BRELLUM BR-751-TCMP Automatic Chronometer (Valjoux 7751 base)

Certification
Officially Chronometer certified movement (COSC)

Decoration 

Perlage, Geneva stripes, blue screws, numbered rotor from 1/9 to 9/9

Technology
25 jewels, 28'800 A/h, 46 hours power reserve; Incabloc, Glucydur Balance,
Nivarox Alloy Hairspring typ Anachron

Function
Hours, Min., Sec., triple calendar (day, date, month), chronograph, day/night indicator, moon phase indicator

CASE
Material
Stainless Steel 316L, DIN 1.4435

Dimension 

Diameter 41.80mm, thickness : 11.20mm without crystals, 15.90mm total

Crystal
Box sapphire crystal with anti reflexion coating on both sides

Dial
Domed Black Sunshine pattern dial, silver counters

Hands
Hours and Minutes with luminous material (Superluminova)

Water resistance 

50m, 5ATM

Case back 

Stainless Steel, numbered with box sapphire crystal, anti-reflection coating

Weight

120g on black veal leather strap mounted on decorated steel deploying buckle, 170g on stainless steel bracelet

PRICE -CHF 3’250.- HT, delivery December 2019

The Klondike Moonphase

From Delma -

Courtesy of Delma

Sort of an unusual take on the moon phase chronograph.  the twist being the Day/Night indicator at 9 o'clock - which I personally REALLY LIKE!  

The case is of stainless steel and measures 44 mm in diameter.  As mentioned this is a chronograph with both moon phase and day night indicator.  Hours, minutes and date round out the features.  

Here are the pertinents -

Collection	Gents Collection
Mechanism	Automatic
Caliber	Delma custom rotor, ETA Valjoux 7751, Perlage and blued screws, with Cotes de Geneve
Power reserve (h)	48h
Number of jewels	25
Frequency	28'800 A/h
Case material	Stainless steel
Case back	Stainless steel with transparent mineral crystal
Size in mm	44
Height in mm	15.3
Weight in grams	130
Water resistance	20 ATM / 200 m / 660 ft
Bezel	Stainless steel
Dial color	White
Bracelet material	Genuine leather
Bracelet color	Black
Clasp	Butterfly deployant clasp
Clasp material	Stainless steel
Model	Klondike Moonphase
Collection category	Racing
Functions	Chronograph, Day-and-night indicator, Day-date, Month, Moonphase

Something a Little Different

From Ernst Benz -

Courtesy of Ernst Benz

This one might not be everybody's first idea of an Ernst Benz.  And that is why it is so cool!  The dial is described as black abalone.

Under the hood it is exactly what you would expect -

ETA's Valjoux 7751 sets the pace offering hours, minutes, day and date as well as moon phase rounded out by the chronograph function.

And because one size does not necessarily fit all, it is available in 47, 44 and 40 mm options.

Here are the pertinents -

MODEL: GC10331

CALIBER: Automatic Valjoux 7751, Incabloc, Glucydur Balance, Nivarox Alloy Hairspring

FUNCTIONS: Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary seconds, Day, Date, Month, 24 hour display and Phases of the Moon.

CASE: 47mm polished stainless steel 

CROWN - Knurled, Double O-Ring sealed 

CRYSTAL - Domed Saphire Glass, Anti-reflective treatment on the lower side 

WATER RESISTANT to 5 Atmospheres, 50m/165ft. 

DIAL: Black Abalone w/Green luminous numerals 

STRAP: Handmade Alligator

The Moon & Stars

From Auguste Reymond -

Courtesy of Auguste Reymond

This is the Jazz Age Chronograph Moon phase, and if I'm honest, I think a very under appreciated watch.  While I realize that the case design might not be for everyone, for me that is the point.  It is different.  Of a different time.

The case measures 37.6 mm which I realize many people might feel is too small, but I feel is a wonderful size, particularly given the thickness of the case at 14.7 mm.

The movement is the Valjoux 7751, and perhaps my favorite detail?  The man in the moon is smiling out at us.  Call me sentimental, but it gives me a warm & fuzzy feeling ; )

Here are the rest of the particulars -

Technical Characteristics

Case material	Stainless steel
Case finishing
Crystal	Domed sapphire
Case back	Snap transparent
Water resistance	3 bar (30m/100ft)
Case dimension (mm)	37.6
Case thickness (mm)	14.7
Strap width (mm)	18/18
Movement type	ETA Valjoux 7751
Rewinding	Automatic mechanical
Autonomy	48 hours
Strap	Leather crocodile imitation

There is no Auguste Reymond distribution in the US as of now, but maybe with luck that will change soon - stay tuned!

Keeping it Complicated

with Ernst Benz -

Ernst Benz make a lot of interesting watches, have a lot of interesting partnerships, and the man heading up this brand has A LOT OF POSITIVE ENERGY!

And while there has been a lot of talk about partnerships with rock stars, future "pro-bowlers" and a certain fashion designer who makes wonderful clothes that I am still 20 lbs. north of looking good in, I am frequently drawn back to their more traditional pieces.

This is the ChronoLunar Officer -

Courtesy of Ernst Benz

44 mm stainless steel case, Valjoux 7751 under the hood, and perhaps one of the most beautiful dials I have seen for this particular set-up. Several brands offer a watch based on this movement, but precious few take the time to do something beyond black ; ). The gold toned hands, indices and sub-dial rings are wonderfully different! This is a watch that will stand the test of time and be passed on from generation to generation. A watch that is of its time while being timeless. With this one, the team at Ernst Benz knocked it out of the park!

And a brief word about the team - I go to BaselWorld EVERY year.  And to be honest, I am starting to feel the need to keep a dossier on each brand so that I can update the frequent comings and goings. And in this, over my time covering watches, Ernst Benz has shown to be a truly unique brand in that it has managed maintain a core team from year to year.  They are cordial, professional and accommodating, which when dealing with some of the nastier spokespeople of the SWATCH Group  (yes Breguet, that means you) is an incredibly welcome breath of fresh air.  

Here are the details, and I am going to raid the piggy-bank:

SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL: GC40384

CALIBER: Automatic Valjoux 7751, Incabloc, Glucydur Balance, Nivarox Alloy Hairspring 

FUNCTIONS: Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary Seconds, Day, Date, Month, 24 hour display and Phases of the Moon. Chronograph: Hours, Minutes and Central Seconds 

CASE: 44mm polished stainless steel 

CROWN - knurled, double O-ring sealed 

CRYSTAL - domed sapphire glass with anti-reflective treatment on the lower side. 

WATER RESISTANT to 5 Atmospheres, 50m/165ft. 

DIAL: White w/Gold hands and numerals 

STRAP: Handmade Alligator