Showing posts with label Nidau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nidau. Show all posts

Sunday, December 19, 2021

A Rōnin's Chronograph

I remember when I first saw it. It winked at me from the pages of iW magazine back at the turn of the century. In one instance it hit every visceral button on my personal control panel -
This is from Auguste Reymond, what is lately referred to as the Jazz Age Chronograph as part of the newly named Tramelan Collection. 

As a civilian watch enthusiast, I was somewhat obsessed with this watch, imagining what it might be like in real life. I left civilian life and entered into the watch business in earnest some 7 years later when I went to work for DOXA, and then got to visit Auguste Reymond's booth while covering BaselWorld in 2012 and 2013 as part of the press corp. And like so many things, with the overwhelming amount of watches and brands that were active at that time, AR took a bit of a back burner position in my mind.

Fast forward to 2015 and my friend Rod Hess and I visited Auguste Reymond the Sunday before Thanksgiving, and there I was shown around the facility, and reintroduced to this wonderful piece (among others).

That visit led to a 2 year project. From 2016 through 2017 I worked with the owners of Auguste Reymond. In the end, the brand was sold, and we went our separate ways. And while it did not turn out the way that any of us wanted, it was a valuable part of my development as a consultant.
For the past eleven years I have been, essentially,  a rōnin. I work in the watch business, I help a brand as much as I can doing what is asked, but at the end of the day I am independent. I am fortunate in that I can move on. But there have been one or two projects that I will always look back on with fondness, and Auguste Reymond before it was sold was certainly one of them.

Auguste Reymond has left Tramelan for Nidau. And it serves to remind me that like so many things in life, nothing is forever, no matter how much we'd like them to be. It is a new company with a newish owner and three new collections. And hopefully it will be successful. 

I realized something important about a year ago, perhaps in one of the darkest moments of COVID lockdown. You can't live in the past. But you also shouldn't jettison it like ballast. 

As I get older, I realize more and more that I am hanging onto a lot of things that I honestly don't need or even appreciate as much as I once did. Wendy and I don't have kids, so more and more I have to ask myself who, or what am I hanging onto some of the things in my life for? I have been gradually thinning out the majority of my watch  collection and am about 3 pieces away from having a tidy, sane number of trusted friends. It has actually been quite cathartic. I am pleased to report that what was once a good sized collection has been moved to new owners around the world, and the pieces are being enjoyed, and worn.

My Agusute Reymond moon phase chronograph will be with me for the duration. I have come to call it the Tramelan Time Machine because it takes me back to a time of hopefulness, when an American Rōnin met a small team in a not-so-sexy place in Switzerland working to promote and sell some wonderful watches. 

Monday, December 28, 2020

Moon Phase Mondays - Auguste Reymond Jazz Age

Well, if I am honest with myself, I have to admit that "Mido on Monday" was a bit of a stinker (Mido, you could have been less helpful, but I'm hard pressed to think of how that might be possible). So we will reload and try something new - 

Moon Phase on Monday

So to kick things off, my personal all-time favorite, and one that always brings a smile to face when I think back upon picking it up at the Auguste Reymond head office back when it was in Tramelan.

This is the Jazz Age Chronograph Moon Phase.  Truth be told, I was never a huge fan of the naming conventions for the models, but names aside it is a fantastic watch.


The case for some is "modest" in size at 37.6 mm in diameter, but that is all part of its allure.  It is exactly large enough to house the Valjoux 7751. While there are no dramatic flourishes in the movement's finish, it is respectable and reserved - which honestly is in keeping with Auguste Reymond's ethos.  

I love the coin edge side case and the onion crown.

The hinge lugs are "semi-modern" in that while they have the look and feel of the original type, they are governed by a spring bar meaning that you can opt for the 18 mm strap of your choice.  

Which as you can see I did with a custom made purple ostrich strap from Lic of Belgium.  Now a quick point for full disclosure - I did represent Auguste Reymond in North America a few years ago, and I do currently represent Lic straps. And while I don't currently represent Auguste Reymond, I am still a fan and a proud owner! And now that there is "newish" ownership, I have faith that some really good things might be coming from the brand now based in Nidau, and I promise to keep you posted!

In checking out the Auguste Reymond online shop, it seems that there might be a few of these available, so if you're so inclined I would advise you to move "sharpish".

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Case material 
Stainless steel

Crystal 

Domed sapphire

Case back 
Snap transparent

Water resistance 
3 bar (30m/100ft)

Case dimension (mm) 
37.6

Case thickness (mm) 
14.7

Strap width (mm) 
18/18

Movement type 
ETA Valjoux 7751

Power Reserve 
48 Hours

Strap 

Leather crocodile imitation


And until next time -

Don't let the moon phase you!