What if... you could search hundreds of watch brands all from one site?

What if...

You could search through a fairly comprehensive list of modern watch brands all in one place? Well, here at Henki Time we've done the hard part and put together a fairly comprehensive list. Next time your research leaves you stumped, come check out  our Watch Brands list ; )

 

The Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek

Limited to 38 pieces, the Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue's case is of stainless steel and measures 38 mm in diameter which appears to be the size du jour ; )

Courtesy of Czapek

About the movement, per Czapek -

The SXH7 caliber, was born as an evolution of the SXH5 movement. The decision of skeletonizing the main plate raised a number of significant challenges, the first one being to completely reverse the escapement. Then the oscillating mass had to be engraved on both sides, for example, and the crown mechanism, now visible to the naked eye, had to be reworked entirely. On a more technical note, the seconds hand could no longer be connected by a bridge to the center, so space was made at 4:30 for a small seconds dial. The solution was to use sapphire crystal ring for the seconds. It is discreetly attached to the larger sapphire ring carrying the hours and minutes and ensuring as much transparency as possible, so the wearer can take a deep dive into the mechanism.

As previously mentioned, this edition is limited to 38 pieces and priced at 28,800.00 CHF
(Excl. VAT)

More info here -

Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue

Legare

While there have been rumblings about a possible horological comeback from the house of Wundermann, what was fully confirmed yesterday was a new brand from Guillaume Tetu and Wei Koh, Legare.

In fairness, the brand was founded in 2024, but they have now announced their first two versions of the brands first model, Chapter I.

Courtesy of Legare

The first's nom de montre is "Elegant". Not sure if I'd give full marks to the imagineers who came up with that one (although it is at least better than the second - more on that shortly).

The Elegant, per Legare:

Elegant: Untreated German Silver

The Elegant version features a mirror-polished case, with contrasting brushed and sand-blasted finishes on all edges and bevels. The movement is crafted from untreated German Silver. Over time, this material will start to patina to show a very beautiful gold hue. The idea of a watch transforming over time, the more it interacts with its wearer.

The Elegant version features extra-thick, high-contrast Côtes de Genève decoration across the mainplate and the three bridges. All angles are mirror polished and extra thick, as are the countersinks for all screws. The two escape wheel bridges display handmade inner angles perfectly framed by the sapphire seconds subdia

Hands: Stamped steel base, flame-blued, mirror-polished.

Strap: Hand-stitched gray Alcantara, 20mm × 16mm, quick release pin bar at lugs and buckle.

The second verison - known as "Darth" (see what I mean...) 

Courtesy of Lagare

The Darth, per Legare:

Darth: True Sandblasting

The Darth features a stealthily brushed case with mirror-polished angles and bevels. The movement is German Silver and has been true sand-blasted, producing a much more luminous sparkle than laser engraved patterns. It is then coated in black ruthenium, which creates a stunning gray hue with hints of blue.

The Darth case is entirely mirror polished first before the surfaces are brushed. While it is very stealthy, every single edge or bevel is mirror polished, which creates an incredible visual impact. You will never find two of the same surface treatments meeting each other at an edge.

Hands: Stamped steel base, flame-blued, mirror-polished.

Strap: Hand-stitched blue Cordova fabric, 20mm × 16mm, quick release pin bar at lugs and buckle.

In terms of both versions, the case is of titanium

(grade 5) and measures 37.5mm × 9.95mm. Gotta' say, sort of dig the somewhat eccentric refusal to conform to a "typical" (i.e. round number) measurement.

As regards the movement, it is refered to as the Calibre LC1–AGP–01.  

Courtesy of Legare

Per Legare:

Calibre LC1–AGP–01 features two balance wheels beating at 21,600vph with their rates averaged through a planetary differential. The differential divides power equally between the two oscillators while averaging their rates.

Both our hairsprings feature Breguet Overcoils or Phillips Terminal Curves to aid in concentric breathing. The balance wheels feature hairsprings pinned in 180° opposing directions to help overcome positional errors due to non-concentric breathing.

Both balance wheels are powered using side-angled lever escapements normally used exclusively in tourbillons and also in past Observatory Trial watches. They are used here to create a more compact architecture allowing us to create a 13-Lignes movement (29.33mm) capable of fitting in a 37.5mm in diameter watch.

This is the only timepiece in watchmaking history to use double side-angled lever escapements in this way.

The differential is located at the fourth wheel, much closer to the escapement, allowing it to average the rates of the two balances more directly than in most other differential-equipped watches.

Calibre LC1–AGP–01 is developed in partnership with TEC Group Swiss, based in Switzerland.

Each Calibre LC1–AGP–01 is assembled and adjusted by hand. The two balance wheels are regulated to run at slightly different rates, allowing the differential to average them.

Every movement is individually tested before leaving Switzerland.

Okay, so let's talk turkey - just how much will a Lagare set you back?

Unless I missed it, there does not appear to be pricing on the website - and as my great grandfather was fond of reminding us -

"If you have to ask, you can't afford it!" Well, we can't all be successful ranchers turned even more successful oil well owners (not to worry, my grandfather managed to squander the entire family fortune, so I will not be competing for you to get one of these limited editions).

There will be 25 pieces total of each version, priced at a rarified price just south of 82,000 CHF - or 1.5 starter homes in rural Ohio.

Summer Repeat - The P01 Pocket Watch From Hager Watches

This first ran five years ago, but I thought I'd re-heat it today. One of my all-time favorite offerings from Pete and Hager!

The P01 Pocket Watch

From Hager Watches -

Courtesy of Hager Watches

As much as I love the P02, I have to say that the P01 is a welcome visceral sucker punch from the team from Hagerstown.

Courtesy of Hager Watches

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

Courtesy of Hager Watches

The first tourbillon pocket watch, HGRP-01, is slightly steampunk, industrial style wearable 42mm modern sapphire glass open faced watch set inside a DLC cushion case with three-hole security screws features a sophisticated skeleton structure, with baton hour markers filled with ecru Super-LumiNova®, that enables distinctive technical aspects of this movement to be seen. 

Courtesy of Hager Watches

The exhibition caseback offers a superb view of the movement framed by a blue stamped guilloché hobnail ring with the Hager logo and a Maryland cross bottony on the crown wheel.  The watch comes with a 10mm brown leather fob.  Stylistically this is similar to the Rolex Oyster pocket watch from 1925/26, Cartier Grand Complication Pocket Watch, Panerai Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica PAM446, Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch and Urwerks 1001. Case size is 42mm X 42mm, water resistant to 3ATM. Currently limited to 10 pieces. 

 

The 25 de Abril Edition

From MeisterSinger -

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

A special limited edition of 25 pieces has been made in partnership with Joalharia Ferreira Marques of Lisbon to commemorate the 60th anniversary of Lisbon's 25 de Abril bridge -

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

Per MeisterSinger -

For six decades, it has shaped Lisbon’s skyline and become one of Portugal’s most recognizable landmarks: the 25 de Abril Bridge. Opened in 1966, the two-level suspension bridge stretches more than 2.2 kilometers (1.4 miles) across the Tejo River, connecting the heart of Lisbon with Almada on the southern bank.

Every day, hundreds of thousands of commuters cross its six traffic lanes and lower railway deck. For visitors, its striking red silhouette is often one of the city's defining sights, whether viewed from Lisbon’s historic center, one of its many scenic overlooks, or while traveling along the riverfront.

With its elegant proportions and unmistakable color, the bridge inevitably draws comparisons to San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. Built during an era when monumental steel bridges stood as symbols of engineering excellence, the 25 de Abril Bridge remains a lasting expression of Portugal’s modernization during the 1960s. Originally inaugurated as the Salazar Bridge, it received its current name after the Carnation Revolution, becoming a powerful symbol of the country’s political and social transformation.

Here are the pertinents -

Model		Edition Ponte 25 de Abril (ED-P25DA)
Movement		Sellita SW200, Automatic, power reserve 38 h
Diameter		40 mm
Case		Stainless steel, six-screw case back with engraving, 5 bar waterresistance, sapphire glass
Dial		Sunburst Red
Strap		Suede leather, Grey, second strap made of Portuguese cork
Specialty		Limited to 25 pieces and available exclusively through Joalharia Ferreira Marques in Lisbon.
Origin		German watch brand; Swiss Made
Retail price*		2.690€
Availability		Available now, exclusively through Joalharia Ferreira Marques (https://www.joalhariaferreiramarques.pt/) in Lisbon.

The Shellman Grand Complication Classic

And I said to myself:

おめでとうございます (congratulations), Henki!  I am now officially obsessed!

Courtesy of Shellman

So, I have known about Shellman since the jump, and in truth I didn't really pay it as much attention as it deserved. And that is solely down to the fact that it is a quartz watch. And it took a recent encounter with my mechanical moon phase, day, date chronograph to remind me of what a monumental pain in the ass it is to re-set ; )

So ladies and gentlemen, and children of all ages, allow me to reintroduce the Shellman Grand Complication Classic.

Courtesy of Shellman

The Grand Complication Classic is, well, complicated ; )

But that's the point. But what it also underscores is that quartz isn't dumb. As has been said many times before, had quartz been available to Abraham Louis Breguet? He probably would have used it ; )

What is wonderful about this time machine, is that to some extent, you can pretty much "set it and forget it".

Now my Japanese isn't what it once was, Kasukabe was nearly 35 years ago now, but my understanding is that you can still purchase a Shellman Grand Complication from Shellman. But getting it shipped outside of Japan seems to be the tricky bit.

Per the website, the price is: ￥141,900

In the lower 48, that means you are looking at:

$890 US.

And I ask you - a watch that will be pretty much bang on time as it is quartz, has a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, moon phase, and a split-second chronograph for less than $1,000 yankee greenbacks?!? 

If you are now (like me) obsessed, here are the pertinents:

GRAND COMPLICATION CLASSIC

Product name	Shellman Grand Complication Classic
price	Classical: ¥141,900 (tax included)
size	Diameter 40mm, Thickness 13mm
weight	Approximately 70g (including belt and buckle)
Material	Body: Stainless steel; Crystal: Curved sapphire crystal
movement	Quartz movement Cal.6771 (accuracy ±20 seconds per month)
waterproof	Daily life waterproof
accessories	French Camille Fournet alligator strap (color: Marine) with Japanese-made stainless steel D-buckle.
Country of origin	The case, movement, and buckle are made in Japan, while the included strap is made in France.
battery life	Approximately 2 years (assuming the minute repeater is used for an average of 17 seconds per day and the chronograph is used for an average of 1 hour per day)
Warranty period	2-year warranty

The Edition Unitas 1Z Blue

From MeisterSinger -

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

This is an extension of the MeisterSinger Unitas Anniversary model, with a light blue enamel dial.

Limited to 25 pieces

Here are the pertinents -

Model	Edition Unitas 1Z (ED-Unitas-08E)
Movement	ETA/Unitas 6497, hand wound, power reserve 46 h
Case	Stainless steel, glass back, 5 bar waterresistance, sapphire glass
Diameter	40 mm
Dial	Genuine enamel, light blue
Hand	Heat-blued steel hand
Strap	Calf leather strap with crocodile embossing, Mahogany, double-folding clasp
Specialty	Limited to 25 pieces, genuine enamel dial, highly decorated Unitas movement, heat-blued steel hand
Origin	German watch brand; Swiss Made
Retail price*	6.990€
Availability	September

Seven Days with the H992 × Astro

Seven Days with the H992 × Astro -

Starts now.

Perhaps Just Under the Radar...the Eternal Way

From Tactum Solis -

Courtesy of Tactum Solis

The blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit, which morphed into Henki Time is a labor of love. It makes no money, actually costs me a fair bit of money and time, but I wouldn't trade it for a million Hodinkees ; )

And perhaps the best part about it is that I get to come in contact with new brands, and the dreamers who have willed them to life. That's why I was so happy to get an email from Vitaliy Khodanov, the person behind Tactum Solis -

Courtesy of Tactum Solis

While there are a handful of models currently available (limited to 15 each), my personal favorite is the Eternal Way -

Courtesy of Tactum Solis

It is described thusly:

                            Eternal Way 

Eternal Way is built around the idea that the outer universe and the inner path are equally infinite. Planets, trajectories and layered space are not decorative elements, but signs of movement through the unknown. The watch becomes a small cosmology. 

                       Edition of 15 pieces.

The watch is conceived in a sort of modular approach with the inner watch being removable from the main case.

Courtessy of Tactum Solis

I hope to go deeper on the entire Tactum Solis collection, and share a bit more of the "origin story" in future posts. But for now, here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT 

Calibre DB6 manual-wind movement 

Diameter 36.6 mm Height 4.5 mm Frequency 3 Hz Power reserve 53 hours Jewels 17 Indication Small seconds at 6 o'clock 

Eternal Way Edition of 15 pieces

CASE AND CONSTRUCTION 

Case material Grade 5 titanium 

Central module 46 mm 

Outer frame 50 x 59 mm 

Overall height 15.5 mm Front crystal Sapphire, anti-reflective, 2.5 mm 

Back crystal Sapphire, 1.5 mm 

Water Resistance

Pressure-tested to 3 ATM 

DIAL AND MODULE MATERIALS 

Dial modules and details vary by edition and may include titanium, silver alloys, palladium alloys, 750 gold alloys and stainless steel. 

MODULAR SYSTEM One case accepts every Tactum Solis module. Owners may acquire a different central module separately and exchange it themselves using the dedicated tool supplied with every purchase.

Perhaps Just Under the Radar - the Confetti

From Ardath -

Courtesy of Ardath

Ardath's description of the Confetti pretty much sums it up:

A Swiss-made automatic watch, unconventionally small, unapologetically colorful. Seriously Fun.

The Confetti is a smaller than typical watch, measuring just 26 mm in diameter. The case is of stainless steel, and under the hood beats a Sellita self-winding (automatic) movmement.

Available in six different colors, there is clearly something for everyone ; )

The Confetti is priced at $990.00 US here in the lower 48, and available direct from Ardath.

The BR-05 GMT Green

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Priced at $5,800.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Bell & Ross -

Technical Specifications

Movement : Calibre BR-CAL.325-1. Automatic Mechanical Movement. 54-hour power reserve.

Functions : Hours, minutes, central seconds, date and second 24-hour time zone. Quick setting of the GMT hand, independently of the hour hand.

Case : 41 mm wide. 11 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel. Satin-finished rhodium-plated and green two-tone flange, with 24-hour scale. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire case-back with 360° oscillating weight.

Dial : Green sunray. “Baignoire-style” polished, rhodium-plated applique indices and numerals filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow). Skeletonised polished, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and 24-hour hand, filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow).

Crystal : Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance : 100 metres.

Strap : Green rubber or satin-finished and polished steel.

Buckle : Folding. Satin-finished and polished steel.