The Silva Rosé and Pistachio

And now for something completely different...

and not a moment too soon!

Courtesy of Hanhart

Those of you who might remember, Hanhart had spent what seemed like an eternity in the hinterlands of Watch Town. You could get a Hanhart any way you wanted it... so long as what you wanted was a black chronograph ; )

Courtesy of Hanhart

Thank goodness times have changed! I will be taking a deep dive with Hanhart in the coming weeks, looking back on my brief (and odd) stint trying to promote Hanhart in North America as a pr flack during the brief tenure of Thomas Morf back in 2012. Probably the less said about that time, the better. But I'll also be interviewing Felix Wallner in the coming weeks, and looking for some insight into what's cooking in Guetenbach.

But back to the matter at hand. The Silva collection are time only, and part of the Pioneer family. They measure 38.5 mm in diameter, and the cases are of stainless steel with an exhibition back. The movement is the Soprod SOP P024 (automatic/self-winding.

The asking price here in the lower 48 is:
$1,510.

More details cane be found here - www.hanhart.com

Fall Repeat - The Dunning - Kruger Effect

Like any crisis, COVID-19 has laid bare a lot of realities that were probably always there, but that could continue on until external events made it impossible for them to remain unacknowledged.

For those of you unfamiliar, the Dunning-Kruger effect, its name is derived from a study conducted by David Dunning and Justin Kruger back just before the turn of the century (1999). The study exposed a very interesting paradox - in several instances average performing people tended to place themselves in the upper echelons in terms of performance. Curious to relate? In many instances, high performing people tended to down-play their abilities, ranking themselves lower on the scale than their abilities justified.

For those of you who are more visual (and enjoy video over text) here is a fun look at the Dunning-Kruger effect courtesy of Trace Dominguez and After Skool -

Cognitive Bias exists everywhere, and we all struggle with it on many levels.  The recent devolution of BaselWorld into a full-blown 3-ring circus is a great example.  And I want to jump right out of the gate and make clear that BaselWorld is only one of the Ringleaders of this train wreck.  

In Tent Number 1:

Remember the bold words of one mayor of Watch Town who insisted that his brand was special, and didn't actually need a show?  And then like a carpet bagger tried to ease south to Geneva to announce (what in hindsight) was a pretty ham-fisted attempt to grab some press ink with some other like minded mayors for a "mini-show" of carefully curated brands?  (editor's note: along with the use of "my friend" and "timepiece" could we agree to ban the term "curated"?  It's complete and utter bullshit.)  

In Tent Number 2:

If Animal Farm were ever to be re-told with denizens of Watch Town as the protagonists, the advent of the FHH show would be familiar.

George Orwell Animal Farm

Here's the thing, you don't tug on Superman's cape.  It was pretty foolhardy of the BaselWorld organizers to assume that they could try to give Rolex and Patek an "Atomic Wedgie" -

Courtesy of the Simpsons

Now I cannot claim to know or understand every thought process or motivation that runs through the storied hallways of Big Green in Geneva.  I respect my place in the hierarchy ; )

But what I can say is this - while Rolex, Tudor, Patek and Chanel had every right to pick up their tents and move them south, let's not misconstrue that as a blow for the Proletariat of Watch Town.  The "letter of secession" makes it pretty clear that these four brands made their decision based on what would work for them.  Several other not-so-fancy brands may not be invited to join the party.

And ladies and gentlemen, train your eyes to the center ring here in the Big Top!:
BaselWorld was clearly living in a different reality than a lot of the larger brands that were willing to continue to pay the price to be there.  And truthfully?  These are some of the real victims in this three-ring shit-show.  If you are a Richemont brand?  You are safe, Watches and Wonders has you covered.  If you are viewed "luxurious and exclusive enough"?  Not a problem, FHH will certainly deem you worthy and you can join them.  But what about some of those other big, notable, and dare I say it - POPULAR brands that actually sell a LOT of watches?  Where do they get to go?  

You get the idea.

Now I still like my personal crack-pot theory that Hayek the Younger has been sitting back in his stronghold in the Biel/Bienne hinterlands, biding his time and waiting to come back to BaselWorld. But then again, I have frequently been guilty of the Dunning-Kruger Bias ; )

Fall Repeat - I Could Do It Better Myself! The Brand CEO

Or, a cautionary tale on the realities of the watch business.

In a former life, I was not in the watch business on any level whatsoever.  I bought the three US based watch magazines with the same fervor of an 8 year old buying baseball cards. Okay, that example might be out of date, but take your young child's current enthusiasm and insert it here ; )

When you admire a business or industry from afar, it is quite easy to see things through rose-colored glasses.  A good friend of mine dreamed of working for a European based professional cycling team.  He wanted to be the guy who was there at the finish line to assist the next Bernard Hinault off his bike at a stage finish of the Tour de France.  After three years of living in shitty hotels around the world, multiple cases of bronchitis, a failed marriage (former wife left him for a barista. To paraphrase her parting words: "at least he had a steady job and was home on weekends") and getting a good scare after getting jabbed by an IV bag's bloody, used needle, he realized that $50,000 a year was not worth it.  Reflecting back, he did have the ability to curse in French, Portuguese, Italian, Spanish, Dutch and one other language that he still can't identify, some scratched-up water bottles, and a signed jersey from a race winner in some minor,  Eastern European stage race that is no longer in existence.  His former wife earned an MBA and that former Barista now works for a well-respected NGO in micro finance, and has given a well-received TED Talk. The point being? Sometimes dreams are just that...

But let's get back to watches.  Despite the fact that I have no hesitation to call bullshit on certain situations, I suffer no delusions as to the difficulty of trying to run, or even work for a brand.  Today, let's start at the top and think about that rockstar - the CEO.

As has been mentioned before, the late 90s and early Oughts brought with them the era of the watch brand CEO as rock star. We all know that Biver was Blancpain, Omega then Hublot. We know that Frederique Constant were led by the Stas family, and that Thierry Stern is the latest (and perhaps last) Stern family member that will helm the ship as the gold medal winner in the genetic Olympics.  Now in most other industries, a CEO is, well, just not that sexy.  For whatever reason (and we all theorize about it) watch CEOs suddenly became not only relevant, but exciting!  And for better or worse, that has been steadily changing over the past few years.  And with it we have seen some pretty dramatic falls from some pretty lofty heights.

As armchair experts, we assume that as a CEO you live a pretty easy, idyllic life -

You roll into the office at around 10:00 AM, traipse through the production facility wishing all of the watchmakers well, grab the paper and plop your feet up on your desk as an espresso magically appears at your side.  You might then speak briefly with a sales manager hearing the wonderful results, then you saunter down to the executive dining room for lunch.  After lunch you're off to the airport where a private jet whisks you off to Italy for a photo-op with your favorite footballer who trades you a signed jersey for a (retail) $20,000 watch. You have a lovely early dinner with said star, team president and other hangers-on.  Then back to the private jet that whisks you home, where your stunning (not-so-age appropriate) partner is waiting for you wearing little more than a smile.  

This is, of course, all bullshit.

So I thought I would share with you a montage of of the Swiss and Japanese CEO's I have worked with and give you a sense of what their day was like:

4:15 - rudely awakened by a random call from an overseas sales manager who despite working for a company that manufactures, markets and sells wrist watches, has still not grasped the concept of international time zones.  But what can you do?  He's the nephew of one of your Board members.

6:00 - after stealing back 15 - 20 minutes of sleep, you have to get up, put on your track suit and take the dog out before you have another unfortunate incident that will require strong cleaning products to remedy if you don't get the puppy on the leash and out into the garden in the next 45, 44, 43 seconds!

6:20 - you made the mistake of bringing your cell phone with you on the walk which is now taking longer than usual as you have a call from the head of assembly, informing you that there was a leak in the lavatory that has now seeped down into the workshop.  You are now really regretting not selling the beautiful old workshop (great for photo opportunities and media "moments" but your watchmakers hate it) when you were approached by that smooth talking, but slightly dodgy real-estate agent who was shopping on the behalf of a very wealthy client hailing from a former Soviet Republic/Stan, who could not be named, but who you suspect belongs to a "fraternal" organization made up of other mysterious fellows that is not the Elks or the Masons.  

7:15 - chasing the kids to hurry up and get ready!  Your partner has already left for work, and today's your day to get the children to their three different schools which are, you guessed it, in three different villages.

8:20 - all three now safely deposited at their institutions of learning, you work the phone (via your hands-free set-up) as you drive on to the office.  No work has taken place in the workshop.  The plumber is, apparently, on vacation in Majorca, and you are now reaching out to a regional assembler to see if they can help you out in the short term by handling the assembly of a week's worth of production.

8:55 - you sprint past the main entry way where you clap eyes on the journalist who is there for an interview (set to start in five, no make that four minutes).  Brief pleasantries are exchanged, and you make your way to one of the conference rooms.  This is the same room that was used for the company yoga class last night, and is still a wee-bit "aromatic" this morning.  

9:05 - after apologizing for the absence of a coffee (nobody remembered to order more Nespressso pods), you begin the dog and pony show with the journalist who you realize is just slightly older than your eldest child, and might be finally old enough to vote in their first election this year.  Halfway through the interview/inquisition you are then treated to the sales pitch from said journalist who presents you with a rate card for today's interview.  If you want it to run beyond their instagram feed, it will cost X.  You make a mental note to cancel the lunch reservation and wrap this up as quickly as possible.  A "goodie bag" is assembled and passed over, and you move onto the next hurdle.

10:45 - Regional Assembler owner calls to inform you that they are "SLAMMED" with orders from (Regional Assembler begins to drop big, expensive names), but maybe you could meet at the most expensive restaurant near his shop to discuss the possibilities over lunch?

11:05 - after reviewing the plumbing situation, you call your brother-in-law who you remember did a 6 month apprenticeship back in the 80s, and might be able to help out.

11:50 - you remember that tomorrow is the board meeting. You put together a shopping list for food and beverages, and NESPRESSO PODS, Dammit!

12:30 - you arrive at the most expensive restaurant near the assembler's shop to find the assembler and someone who is very clearly not his wife sharing the remains of a not inexpensive bottle of champagne.  You do the mental math and realize that you probably never should have called him in the first place.  Your guests order half the menu, you order a cup of soup and still water, trying to figure out how to explain this to your accounting department.  In the end, apologies all around, but we're just too busy to help you.  "But we should do this again some time!"

2:43 - back at the workshop, your brother in law is on the scene, has somehow managed to field strip the leaky joint, run out to the local home improvement store, purchased the requisite replacement gaskets, re-assembled the connection, flushed the pipes and...
Good as new!  He even grabs a mop to help the cleaning crew clean up the mess!  You make a mental note, contact the purchasing office and - with your own money - buy him a new watch with your company discount.  Thank you's are exchanged and you make plans for him and his family to come over at the weekend.  All is right with the world... for now.

4:45 - after about a ZILLION calls from overseas agents, you then have your meeting with the marketing department who are very, very keen to make a regional F3 racer a brand ambassador.  You google the name and realize that said F3 racer is the godson of your head of marketing.  You keep your poker face, and suggest a follow-up meeting about it next week.

8:30 - You have nearly finished preparing your presentation for the board meeting tomorrow night, your partner calls to ask you if you could please pick up your middle child who missed the bus after her karate class.  So you gather up a few files, grab your shopping list for tomorrow, grab your laptop and head to your car, your daughter, and finally - home.

Yes, it's not all glamour ; )

The Multifort TV Big Date

From Mido -

Courtesy of Mido

This is the latest from Mido - a revised riff on the TV test screen theme.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter. Fitted with a stainless steel bracelet, the Multifort TV Big Date ships with two additional rubber straps - one yellow, one blue.

The movement is described by Mido as the Mido Calibre 80, or for those in the know, the ETA C07.651.

The asking price is $1,610 here in the lower 48.

As Clear As Mud...

Some will tell you that Switzerland and the US are about to reach a tariff agreement. Some will tell you that this is down to the intervention of Swiss business types like a few of the crown princes of WatchTown. Some will hint that it might have something to do with Gianni Infantino (who has the moral maleability necessary to run FIFA and cosy up to despots and military regimes around the world) hinting that the first annual FIFA Peace "prize" will maybe be awarded to the person who single handedly put them collectively over the barrel while encouraging them to squeal like pigs. And the tacky as f*&k Rolex desk watch/clock on his desk has some of Watch Town's "smartest and sharpest" looking at their Magic 8 Balls and informing the anyone who will listen that sunny skies are coming.

The truth? It's as clear as mud...

Fall Repeat - The Sales / Brand Manager

This first saw the light of day in "The Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit" back before the COVID 19 Pandemic reared its ugly head. With the latest shenanigans of the current Presidential administration continuing to baffle one and all, I don't see any resolution coming any time soon to the current not-so-great state of Watch Town. But at least this time around people aren't dying by the truckload due to misinformation.

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Sales/Brand Manager

5:30 AM - The alarm goes off, and tempting though it may be to hit the snooze, you pull yourself out of bed, jump on your Peleton and commit yourself to another 30 minutes of fitness.

6:50 AM - Showered, you make yourself presentable, grab a coffee and fire up your laptop for the weekly video conference with HQ.

8:15 AM - your daughter calls to remind you that as it is your weekend, she will be waiting for you outside of school following STEM club at 4:00 PM.  You make a note in your phone and set the alarm for 3:45 to remind yourself.

9:05 AM - safely settled at your desk, you scroll through the "Butcher's Bill" to try and figure out why you got blindsided a few hours ago when HQ informed you that:

1.  You need to close Retail Partner A.  No real detail given.

2.  You need to continue to extend credit to retail partner Z, even though they have not paid their invoices for the past 5 months, hit you with $26,333 of "co-op" advertising expenses, and requiring you to arrange a "junket" for the owner, the owner's current (not his wife) girlfriend, their assistant manager and 2 of their "loyal" customers to visit the HQ, factory, and maybe, you know if there's time, ski a little...

While reviewing all of the internal and external communication, you happen to glance up at a map of Los Angeles and it all becomes clear.  Retail Partner Z is opening up a new "fuck you" store literally across the hall from Retail Partner A, and demanding (literally) that your boss in Switzerland cut off Retail Partner A.  You then remember one of the pictures on the wall at HQ in New York with your boss, the girlfriend (not wife) of your boss, Retail Partner Z and half of the Los Angeles Lakers, courtside at the Staple's Center.

And of course, it just so happens that you are based in (or at least near) Los Angeles...

10:00 AM - Retail Partner A's store has opened.  You meet the owner and the two of you head out of the mall to a nearby restaurant so that you can speak in private.  Retail Partner A was the first store you ever opened an account for your first brand, some 20 years ago.  To his credit, Retail Partner A says he totally understands, he has seen this coming.  You personally really like Retail Partner A.  He and his wife have always sent your daughter both birthday and Christmas presents.  They insist on picking up the check even when they are your guests, they are old-school, shook Sinatra's hand type of retailers.  You excuse yourself for a few minutes, go out to the street and call your boss.  You explain that as a sign of good will, you need authorization to buy back the product.  Considering that most of it is still untouched (as it was just delivered 3 weeks ago), in the wrapping, you can simply walk it across the hallway to Retail Partner Z when they open.  Your boss is in agreement so long as 90% of the pieces are re-sellable.  You do the mental math (you looked at the safe count while you were speaking with Retailer A, and there are 13 pieces that have some wear, which tips it to 15% of the inventory.

You go back in, tell them exactly what your boss told you, but suggest that they take 6 of the slightly worn pieces that are the most likely to sell, and blow them out at 40% off, ensuring that the store can make 10% profit off of them, and be in compliance for the buy-back.

You suggest an early lunch (it is now 11:45) and once again, Retail Partner A grabs the check and will not let you pay.

12:50 PM - You walk Retail Partner A back to their store, and take a moment to make some calls before your next appointment - 175 feet across the mall's "hallway" to visit the soon to be opened 5th location of Retail Partner Z.

Retail Partner Z makes you wait a good 20 minutes in the construction area.  Once done, Retail Partner Z excuses himself, and Junior (second born son) takes over the meeting.  In a very short timeframe (less than a year) Junior has managed to piss off every brand rep he has come in contact with, and driven out more than half of the sales staff at their flagship store in Beverly Hills.  You have resigned yourself to simply nodding and smiling.  But Junior wants to flex his muscles and decides to get pissy with you anyway.  He demands to know why Retail Partner A still is carrying your brand.  You explain that they (Retail Partner Z) will have the exclusive rights the day that they open - which is still 45 days out.

2:00 PM - Junior says - "Hey, I'm hungry.  Buy me lunch and we can talk about our order".  So off you go to lunch #2.  Junior, although he drove to work, decides that a few bourbons would be a good idea on a hot Los Angeles afternoon.  You pay the check (a little over $200 with tip), and Junior says that next time you need to go somewhere nicer - "You guys need to stop being so cheap!".

You walk Junior back to his car, send your best regards to his dad, and hope like hell he does not get stopped by the cops.  3:00 PM is a bit early in the day, but he insisted.

You walk back through the mall to pick up the book your daughter asked you to order on Amazon, and as you're walking to the garage, you hear someone calling to you.  You turn to see your fried Julia, who is the district manager for Unobtainium, one of the hottest watch brands that is finally going into independent retail.  She has just finished meeting with Retail Partner A, and is happy with the outcome.  She thanks you for the referral, and comments on how much people must love them as flowers and two gourmet baskets arrived along with 2 bottles of champagne during her pitch.  You make plans to see each other at the Las Vegas shows in June, and hop in your car.  You make a mental note that you will not be able to submit the gift baskets and flowers on your expense account as they are not part of your approved expenses.

3:45 - The alarm on your iPhone goes off, just as you are rounding the corner to pick up your daughter.  Yes, you are early, but you savor the moment, listen to the last 10 minutes of your podcast, and think about the weekend.

The Klassik 36 From Archimede

So, after reviewing one of Archimede's time machines, I say with total confidence -

You want one of these -

Courtesy of Archimede

This is the Klassik 36, with a twist. Available in dove blue, sage, and peach.

Courtesy of Archimede

Courtesy of Archimede

Courtesy of Archimede

The case is Ickler's own, measuring 36 mm in diameter. The movement is from Citizen, and is self-winding.

Black & White by Elka Watch Co.

From Elka -

Courtesy of Elka

Courtesy of Elka

This is a limited edition offering - 100 pieces available only by pre-order. Delivery is anticipated in mid-December.

These pieces are the result of a collaboration between noted photographer Christian Coigny and Elka Watch Co.

Available in either the Black or White (dial and strap color).

Here are the pertinents -

CALIBER
La Joux Perret G100 automatic 4 Hz / 28'800 A/h, stop second 68-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, centre seconds No Date
CASE MATERIALS
1.4404 steel
SCREWED CASE BACK
Steel 1.4404
HANDS
Nickel color, Satinated leaf type hands
GLASS
Chevé type sapphire - box - anti-scratch anti-reflective treatment on one side
BUCKLE
Steel 1.4404
CASE DIMENSIONS
36 mm diameter, 10.50 mm thickness, 41.10 mm lug-to-lug
WATERPROOF:
50 meters / 5 bar
WARRANTY:
2 years

 

A Quick Review of the Lip Annapurna

 So, it would seem, time's up!

Courtesy of Lip

Now I have been holding onto a wee bit of a secret since March 2024. At that time I visited Lip in Besançon, and Pierre-Alain Berard shared with me that Lip was on the threshold of completing work on their new movement. Now he stressed, this was not meant to be a revolution in horology. It was meant to be a movement that would power what used to be referred to as the watch of the people (of France and possibly Belgium). So this movement would not be 100% original. It would be based upon pre-exisiting architecture, but with some new flourishes. It would be assembled, regulated, and cased in the Lip workshops in Besançon. He had been wearing a test model and with the promise that we were "off the record" shared with me the vision of what Lip was intending and where it was heading. 

Fast forward one year, and I met Pierre-Alain in Geneva and he showed me the three prototypes that would make up the new collection. Again, I had to keep it to myself, and was glad to do so.

So now, it seems, the new Lip Manufacture movements are here and powering three different models. The Nautic 666 (also known as the "Devil Diver"), the Type 14, and the Annapurna. 

Courtesy of Lip

Now the Lip movements have been out for a bit, and they have received the usual amount of scrutiny that you might expect. So if you're looking for a lot of feedback on technical aspects, I encourage you to seek other reviews. For me, Lip is a matter of feeling. Owing to that, and the fact that I hope to someday represent them in North America, I think it important to stress that any review I do of Lip can't really be objective. And I'm okay with that ; )

So some Lip naming background. The Annapurna is (to some extent) based on the Himalaya model. It is named for the tenth highest mountain in the world. It represents Lip's dressier range. 

Per Lip:

ANNAPURNA - R26

Reach the peaks

In tribute to the achievement of the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who conquered the first peak over 8000 meters, the "Annapurna" collection was launched by Fred Lip in 1951, before being renamed Himalaya after the ascent of Everest in 1953. Today, LIP reintroduces this iconic watch featuring the R26 movement, combining a 39 mm polished stainless steel or PVD gold case with a black or silver dial. Water-resistant up to 50 meters, the Annapurna celebrates the golden age of mechanical watchmaking and positions itself as a classic prestige piece dedicated to adventurers.

This particular model is available in three versions - the black dial model that Lip was kind enough to let me run around the block with, and two white sunburst dial models (one with a stainless steel case, the other is stainless with a gold PVD finish).

Lip was kind enough to let me choose which to review, and I opted for the black dial model. A quick note, not the easiest to photograph, but a striking time keeper nonetheless.

So I will first give you my (admittedly biased) impressions of the Lip Annaupurna. I am at once reminded of when Nomos first came on the scene. It was a nice watch, the finishing was good, and it was affordable. Moreover? It was different. And apparently I am not the only one with that feeling. Lip sent 2 each of the new collections and the feedback was a resounding yes from visitors to the HYPE in NYC a few weeks back. I suspect Lip will have a bright future in the coming years.

Now back to the watch itself - it is very comfortable and with a substantial (but not overwhelming) 39 mm case. The finishing is smooth and precise. The dial is pleasantly formatted and legibility is top-notch. The only thing I would possibly change is the location of the date, or modify the number 3. But this is just one person's opinion ; )

The setting is precise and the hand-winding solid. The crown is tactile without being rough.

The strap is leather, with a 20 mm lug width. The buckle is pleasantly shaped, bearing the Lip logo. The strap has a quick release spring bar system, so with luck Lip will offer other strap options - or you can of course purchase other options to swap out.

The movement is Lip's new endeavor, per Lip -
Movement: mecanic automatic
Reference movement: R26D
Automatic mechanical movement.
Frequency: 21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 21.
Accuracy: -5/+10 sec/Day.
Power reserve (Mainspring after fully wound up): 42 hours.
Finishing: LIP custom decoration of the gear bridge and the oscillating weight.

So who is the watch for? If you are that guy (or gal) who goes to every watch meet up with a loupe, ready to quote chapter and verse every reference number and convinced that you know more than anyone else? This is not the watch for you. And what do I mean by that? Simply put, Watch Town, and the folks who populate it are not always the most interesting people in the room. You wanna' know who are the most interesting & intriguing people at any watch show or meet-up?

The romantics. 

What do I mean by that? Simply put, anyone with enough CHF, YEN, EURO, or even DOLLARS US can create watches and sell them. And that in no way makes what they create any more or less worthy than any other watch. But very few watches can collect, carry, and convey emotion. Very few can hit that visceral nerve where a watch goes beyond a mere timekeeper and transforms into a true time machine. These new Lip watches do just that.

Now as I said at the top of this - I am biased. I have made my way to Besançon three times over the past 10 years and am looking forward to even more visits to watch how Lip under its new-ish leadership will continue to grow and evolve. Lip, Besançon, and the Berard's are that magical combination that French watchmaking has been wanting and needed for far too long. Now that the stars have aligned, Lip is truly ready to regain its status as the watch of France - and beyond.

So how do you put a price tag on that? Well, I have good news for you - the asking price is not nothing, but also not anything to send you into shock -

€890.00

Tax included

Now that is the price in the EU. What that will translate into in terms of USD remains to be seen, but at today's exchange rate (per the XE app): $1,026.34 US.

The SB04-E “TANTOSTER”

From Sartory Billard -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

This is the latest from Armand Billard, and is an exclusive offering partnering with Oster Jewelers -

Sartory-Billard × Oster Jewelers — The SB04-E “TANTOSTER”

Per Sartory Billard -

We’re proud to unveil the SB04-E “TANTOSTER”, a limited collaboration between Sartory-Billard and Oster Jewelers in Denver.

This edition pushes the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship. For the first time, the timeless “grand panier” guilloché pattern has been engraved on tantalum — a noble metal revered for its deep grey tone, remarkable resilience, and near-impossible hardness.

Each of the ten dials represents an experiment in patience, precision, and perseverance — a study in how light dances across one of Earth’s rarest materials.

The result: something quietly extraordinary. A watch that balances texture and tone, strength and grace, made for those who seek the uncommon.

And for those who appreciate the craft behind the art — every half dial machined required a new cutting tool, as tantalum relentlessly wore down each one. Ten dials, countless tools, infinite dedication.

SB04-E “TANTOSTER” — limited to ten pieces worldwide.
Now available exclusively through Oster Jewelers, Denver.

US $ 6850 - price includes delivery and tariffs -

You can find more details here -

 
https://www.osterjewelers.com/products/sartory-billard-sb04-e-tantoster

New Yusai Dials From Minase

From Minase -

Courtesy of Minase

In their own words:

Divido - Falling Stars & Mirage

The dial is crafted from mother-of-pearl, enhanced by an intricate layering of pigments. The surface thus shifts depending on the light, at times suggesting the soft radiance of a nebula, those clouds of gas and dust in outer space, visible in the night sky, and at others, the serenity of a snowy landscape reflecting sunlights. In harmony with Divido’s faceted case, the dial has been conceived as a living canvas of light. This refined chromatic composition offers more than aesthetic pleasure: it invites contemplation.

Courtesy of Minase

5 Windows - Pluralist Garden

The dial is crafted with delicate layers of blue-green pigments and was inspired by the harmony of Japanese gardens. Yellow and blue tones mix perfectly with the green and remind the gentle waves of a pond. In Japan, windows are not only a practical way to bring light inside a room, they often offer a view on something beautiful outside like a garden, a mountain or a tree. This collection opens a poetic aperture between the inner and outer world, where craftsmanship and nature flows as one.

Courtesy of Minase

7 Windows - Otherwise than Being

The dial is painted with multiple layers of blue pigments, creating a sense of depth. The artist’s variation of the blue color was designed to evoke a feeling of suspension and weightlessness. The Seven Windows was the perfect model for this design with its ingenious case-in-case structure and three-dimensional indexes. Indeed, the dial seems to hover in space within the case.

About the artist -

Courtesy of Minase

Towa Takaya is a Japanese artist whose work bridges nature and material. She creates her own pigments from soil, plants, and other natural ingredients gathered during her travels. Her paintings pay tribute to nature, exploring delicate color spectrums and subtle gradations. Ms. Takaya explains: “The pieces I have created for Minase were inspired by Japan's unique craftsmanship culture and beautiful nature. I spent several months researching methods of expression to represent different aspects of nature.”

The BR-03 GMT Compass

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

When traveling in a different time zone, you usually want a GMT. But what if you get lost? Not to worry, Bell & Ross has you covered with the BR-03 GMT Compass!

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The square case measures 42 mm and sports a bi-color 24-hour bezel. Its water resistance is rated to 100 meters. Under the hood beats the automatic BR-CAL.303 movement which boasts up to  54 hours of power reserve.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The asking price here in the lower 48 is $5,000 US.

Here are the pertinents -

• MOVEMENT

  Calibre BR-CAL.303. Automatic mechanical movement. 54-hour power reserve.

• FUNCTIONS

  Hours, minutes, central seconds, second 24-hour time zone and date. Quick setting of the GMT hand, independently of the hour hand.

• CASE

  42 mm wide. 12.3 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel. Bi-directional rotating bezel with 24-hour scale and blue and black two-colour anodised aluminium ring.

• DIAL

  Black dial with flange under the crystal with cardinal points and minute track. Black hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 with a green glow. Black and blue second hand. Red and white two-colour GMT hand with twin arrows.

• CRYSTAL

  Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

• WATER-RESISTANCE

  100 metres.

• STRAP

  Black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

• BUCKLE

  Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.

The Curious Case of Francis Ford Coppola

News broke (in fairness, more than a few days ago) that Francis Ford Coppola has made arrangements to have seven pieces of his watch collection placed at auction with Phillips. Most notable of these is this little wrist rocket -

Courtesy of Phillips

Curious to relate, this story (as far as I can tell, but then again I am not always the quickest of bunnies) has not really been picked up by Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates. That, in and of itself, is a wee bit curious. But more curious than that is the (I've got to be honest) levels of glee expressed by the press, not least of which can be read in Stuart Heritage's piece in the Guardian -

Strapped for cash: why Francis Ford Coppola is flogging his watches

In the interest of full disclosure I have not seen his latest film, Megalopolis, so I can't really comment on the film's quality or possible lack thereof. But the buzz around the press (possibly planted by Coppola himself to generate interest) is that after investing $100 million of his money in what in hindsight has proven to be a failed venture, he needs the money. Well, maybe yes, maybe no. 

I would be disingenuous if I did not admit my own bouts of schadenfreude when it comes to the mishaps suffered by certain denizens of Watch Town. And in all fairness, I know of at least one major luminary with his own ubiquitous brand, and a handful of journalists (active and no longer so) who would feel the same about me. We are after all, human. 

But I want to propose another theory which characterizes my recent revelation that two things can be true at the same time. It might well be that Mr. Coppola is feeling the sting of essentially losing that large an amount of money. But at the same time, it might be that he has come to a point in his life where he realizes that he will have less and less control over the immediate future. He is 86 years old, and it is inevitable that at some point we all reprioritize what is important in our lives. In many ways, this ensures that his collection goes to (hopefully) a good home, and he will have some pocket money. 

In addition to the star attraction, other pieces on the block include the F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance that was a gift from his late wife -

Courtesy of Phillips

In addition to these two unicorns, there is a pair of Pateks, a Blancpain, a Breguet, and an IWC.

If you are reading this, it is likely that you are at least at some level interested in watches. And perhaps this is just little me shouting into the void, but it's hard not to be romantic about watches. And regardless of the circumstances, this is an opportunity for folks out there who love watches and are fans of Mr. Coppola's work to own something special.

One final thought - and this is my own story. Back in 1992 I had been struggling for more than a year to find steady work and settle down after finishing university. I had moved to three states in less than a years time still hoping something was going to click. I was living in a room that I paid for by the week. I had sold almost everything of value I had left, save my grandmother's Omega watch. By some small miracle I was offered a teaching job in Japan. I leveraged literally everything I had left except my university ring, a few pairs of jeans, a pair of sneakers, some cds, and a bag to carry it all in. I bought a used suit for my new job, and needed a few hundred dollars more to be "safe" in my new job (I needed to buy my air ticket and have 1 month's living expenses). So down I went to the pawn shop, and my inheritance funded the last piece of my financial puzzle.

Since 1992 I have bought and sold countless watches hoping to get that same feeling that I had for a mid-sized Omega quartz watch that I wore maybe two times. I still haven't gotten there. But the idea that it is possibly still out there holds me in thrall.

In a long career Mr. Coppola has failed, recovered, prospered, and failed. And in fairness, doesn't that seem familiar to all of us?