The Early Bird Gets...

A 24 hour watch!

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

Point of full disclosure - I am responsible for Ollech & Wajs (OW Zurich) in North America. So this will be just the facts on this. But before I go into watch journalist (if ever an oxymoron was coined) mode, I am going a wee-bit enthusiast. From the time I started working with Charles and OW, I have begged, pleaded, even tried to bribe him to make an updated version of the Early Bird. We previewed it at Time to Watches in Geneva, and we are now ready to release it. End of behind the scenes fan-boy update ; )

This is the Early Bird -

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

- Ollech & Wajs EB - 24
- Bespoke Swiss made Soprod P125 24-hour, Automatic
- 300 m / 30ATM
- Dimensions 39.5 mm × 12.5 mm
- Lug width 20mm
- Relaunches 19:56 (CET) 30th June

Here is the release as it went out to the OW Collector's Club:

In 1965 Ollech & Wajs launched the eponymously named ‘Early Bird’, 24-hour dual-time-zone watch, which paid tribute to a satellite of the same name.

The Intelsat I, or ‘Early Bird’ as it is better known, was the world’s first geosynchronous communications satellite, and handled all commercial telecommunications transmissions between Europe and North America between 1965 and 1969. This included the live transoceanic TV coverage of the Gemini 6 splashdown; footage of the Apollo 11 moon landing; and the first ever performance of ‘All You Need Is Love’ by The Beatles, live to a global audience of 700 million people. Early Bird changed humanity’s relationship with distance. It made the Atlantic feel smaller by enabling near-instantaneous communications between continents. Before Early Bird, the world was connected by cables. After Early Bird, it was connected through space. It marked the moment the world became truly connected and became one of the defining technological milestones of the twentieth century. The Early Bird satellite was decommissioned in 1969, but it remains in silent in orbit today, more than half a century after its launch.

Albert Wajs wanted to pay tribute to this landmark moment of modern engineering by creating a watch in its honour. The 24-hour ‘military-time’ dial reflects the time taken for the satellite to complete one orbit of the Earth. The blue-and-red metallic bezel echoed the colours of the satellite itself. 

However, unlike its namesake, the Ollech & Wajs Early Bird was not made for outer space. It was created specifically for military personnel, particularly pilots and radio operators, for whom a 24-hour ‘military-time’ dial would be invaluable. Most of the original Early Birds were ordered direct from Zurich via adverts in black-and-white newspapers like the Army Times. The new owners were pleasantly surprised when the watch arrived to see that it had a blue-and-red bezel, not grey tone as the ads suggested. Of all the watches that carried the OW monogram, the Early Bird is said to be Albert Wajs’s personal favourite. Despite being one of our best-known watches, it is also one of the rarest - no more than 500 Early Birds were made. Though 24-hour time is widely used all over the world today, 24-hour mechanical Swiss watches are seldom seen. The reimagined ‘Early Bird’ EB-24 has an automatic, 24-hour movement, meaning unlike a conventional watch, the hour hand only completes a single revolution in a full day. This feature allows the wearer to view all 24 hours of the day at a glance while simultaneously tracking a second time zone, an indispensable feature for pilots, international travellers and professionals communicating across continents. Last year marked the 60th anniversary of both the Early Bird watch and the launch of the satellite that inspired it. Given the special place the original watch holds in Albert Wajs's heart, we delayed its reintroduction until 2026, the platinum anniversary year of Ollech & Wajs itself. The EB-24 will be priced at 1,956 CHF, also a nod to our founding year The first 56 watches will have numbered crowns, numbers allocated in order of purchase. It will be available to order worldwide from 19:56 (CET) Tuesday 30th June 2026 at www.ow-watch.com

Sleeping Beauty Or Self-Induced Coma?

I have written pretty extensively about Anonimo. And in truth, like anything that beguiles you, it is hard to be objective. But as it has now been nearly 4 years since my last visit to Le Locle, I genuinely feel that I can say this fairly and objectively...

The lights are on, but nobody appears to be home. 

Anonimo has now been through at least three sets of hands, and seems to be no closer to realizing its potential than the day they started. 

Over the past four years, there have effectively been no signs of life. No new models (and forgive me in advance if I've got that wrong). Three model families that seem to be betting more on being acceptable rather than being what Anonimo used to be about - bold (sometimes goofy), always (for better or worse) Anonimo.

I will be the first to say that you shouldn't live in the past, but the real challenge is that Anomimo doesn't seem to even be living in the present.

The "Sleeping Beauty" strategy is one that is well-known around Watch Town. And as it's been four very quiet years, I have to wonder if that is the plan. So maybe, hopefully, there is some one out there who wants to step in and right the ship. Someone, dare I say it, who's ready to speak to the current owners and convince them to sell, and then plant a gentle, but firm kiss on Sleeping Beauty's cheek and bring her out of this seemingly endless sleep.

We shall wait, and we shall see. But for now I will hold onto this -

The People You Meet On Vacation - Cimier and the 711 POP PINK

Courtesy of Cimier

Okay, vacation is often coupled with travel. And when your side-hustle is in Watch Town, at least once a year your vacation plans will be a busman's holiday in Switzerland. This past April found yours truly holding down the booth of one of the brands I work with. And I got a chance to see the other participating brands. In some instances it's very much like seeing old friends.

And you also get to have a closer look at some brands that you have admired from afar. Now make no mistake, I am loyal to the brands I work with, but I am, at heart, someone who loves watches. I am not (at least I don't think I am) a snob. I also make a point of living within reality (i.e. my means). At other times in my life I've owned two different Rolex models, and in hindsight the experience did not live up to my fevered dreams. And while it would be nice to own a Patek or Vacheron, I don't want a watch to own me. By that I mean if I have a watch, I want to be able to wear it without fear (of theft, damage, or worse).

So back to the matter at hand, and a little bit more about me. Up until three years ago, I would always spend at least a day or two in Biel/Bienne each Switzerland trip. And if I was particularly lucky, it might include a visit to Tissot Arena to either take in FC Biel/Bienne (football), or EHC Biel-Bienne (ice hockey).

You could say that I am the unofficial US supporters' club for both teams ; )

Okay, so what's the connection? After leaving each game at Tissot Arena, you can't help but clap eyes on the Cimier HQ as you are turning right to head out. So in an odd sort of way, I already felt connected.

So while I had been curious, and perhaps admired Cimier from afar, this past April was my first opportunity to spend real time with the collection, and get to meet two of the Cimier folks - Alexandra Lanz (CEO) and Antoine Abadie (Marketing Manager). And at least from my side, it was time well-spent. I will be coming back in more detail about the brand and the current offerings in later posts. But today is about (spoiler alert) my new-ish Cimier 711 POP PINK.

And as I am an impatient sort of fellow, I pulled the trigger without too much foot dragging ; )

Now I am a man of many moods, and I live in a climate that can be a bit unforgiving in terms of humidity and its effects on how a watch fits on. my wrist, I was partiularly drawn to Cimier's use of quick spring straps, but also the clever opening at the lug ends to ensure quick and easy changes. 

So much for that I also sprung for the bracelet, and a glad that I did ; )

After two months, let me just say that the love affair continues!

Now while I could drone on about tech specs, "value propositions", etc., I would rather just focus on what my philosophy about watches and time. You don't need one, and you can't escape the other. So at a bare minimum, a watch should bring you joy. And my Cimier 711 POP PINK brings me joy every time I wear it.

H992 - and the H992 × Astro

It seems that there is always something new to be discovered. And such is the case of H992. 

I first clapped eyes on the H992 collections last year in Geneva. This past year I got to spend more time with Maurizio Milani, who handles sales for the brand.

And in that time, I also got to spend more time with the various collections, and well... let's just say I might be raiding my piggy-bank yet again!

           

This is the H992 × Astro, and I am beguiled.

The case is of stainless steel, and measures 42 mm in diameter. The movement is Sellita's SW260-1, but with a COSC upgrade! 

     

So why is that such a big deal? I mean, plenty of COSC watches out there. But at this price point?

CHF 1'592.00?!?

This is really something special.

Okay, but beyond the tech niceties, I gotta be honest, I am seriously crushing on the dial.

Courtesy of H992

The dial is courtesy of Astro, a world-renowned artist known for his murals and street art.

If you are as obsessed as I am, here are the pertinents:



MOVEMENT:
SW260-1 automatic, COSC certified

CASE:
Black PVD steel,  or Steel

Case diameter
42mm

Case thickness
10.1mm

DIAL:
Astro

STRAP:
Rubber

Water resistance
10 ATM 100 meters

CRYSTAL:
Sapphire, double anti-reflective treatment on the inside AR43, thickness 1.40mm

LIMITED EDITION:
52

Jumping The Shark... with Vulcain

Per the Urban Dictionary -

jump-the-shark

The beginning of the end. Something is said to have "jumped the shark" when it has reached its peak and begun a downhill slide to mediocrity or oblivion. It's said to have been coined by Jon Hein, who has a web site, jumptheshark.com, and now a book detailing examples, especially as applied to TV shows. It supposedly refers to an episode of the TV show "Happy Days" in which Fonzie jumps over a shark on water skis, which Hein believes was the point at which the series had lost its touch and was beginning to grasp at straws.

Courtesy of Vulcain

I visited the Vulcain workshop four different times while I was working on my book about the Vulcain Cricket and the Presidents of the United States. The CEO during that time period was Carla Duarte. She provided invaluable assistance in pulling together the loose threads. I mention this, because there is an alternative narrative being shamelessly pushed as to who the CEO of Vulcain was at that time. But as has been said about other instances of the use of alternative facts, "a lie will travel around the world before the truth has got its boots on".

But back to the matter at hand. This is the latest effort to get something more out of a limited resource. And once again, it does not appear that the juice is worth the squeeze.

Think I'm being unfair? Let's just say that the various other special / limited edition Vulcain Crickets have finally worked their way through the grey and light grey markets after more than a few years of lingering around. And now another fever dream has popped up. 

Courtesy of Vulcain

This is the Cricket Titane. The case and a few parts of the movement are of titanium. The dial is described as "Flat Guilloché-Effect Dial: White printing, silver-tone indexes". I think that's a round about way of saying the dial is meant to look like something more than it is. And fair enough.

Courtesy of Vulcain

Limited to 100 pieces, and bargain priced at a mere $7,670 here are the pertinents:

HANDS: Hour and Minute Hands: Polished blue, seconds hands, polished black, Alarm Hand, Polished black
CASE: Titanium case with titanium bezel and saphire crystals
CASE-BACK: Sapphire exhibition caseback
DIAL: Flat Guilloché-Effect Dial: White printing, silver-tone indexes
DIAMETER: 33.30 mm
THICKNESS: 1.10 mm
GLASS: Anti-reflective crystal
WATER RESISTANCE: 5 ATM
DIMENSIONS: 39 mm
BUCKLE: Solid 316L stainless steel
MOVEMENT: Manufactured V14 Titanium Cricket, Geneva stripes decoration, blued steel screws
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes and seconds, alarm
FREQUENCY: 18'000 2,5 HZ
POWER RESERVE: 52 Hours

The anno – annual calendar sandblasted

From ochs und junior -

Courtesy of ochs und junior

Available in either 39 mm or 42 mm.

The case is of Grade 5 titanium. The movement is based on the ETA 2824-2 with Ludwig Oechslin's modifications attached.

Priced at: 

CHF 5'596.30 — Incl. 8.1% VAT.
CHF 5'177.00 — Export price.

Here are the pertinents:

Case in Grade 5 titanium | Sandblasted and rhodium-plated dial with patina markers | Patina hour and minute hands | Second hand gold leaf coated | Rhodium plated date disk, month wheel and weekday wheel | Date, month and weekday display in patina | ETA 2824-2 | Black Ecopell calfskin strap, available in sizes small, medium, large, or extra-large | Non customizable | Warranty two years.

The THERMOSPHERE

From Hahnhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is the latest special edition from Hanhart - the THERMOSPHERE. The case is of satin polished stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter. This is no mere desk-diver! Per Hanhart:

"Developed in collaboration with the Baden-Württemberg State Firefighters’ Association, the watch transfers key time markers from a breathing apparatus operation onto the rotating bezel.

In doing so, the model combines a robust operational aesthetic with a clear functional concept."

Courtesy of Hanhart

It is priced (reasonably) at $2.467 here in the lower 48.

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

DIMENSIONS
Diameter 42 mm
Height 12.95 mm
Lug-to-Lug 49 mm

MATERIAL
Stainless steel, satin/polished

BEZEL
Fluted blue bezel with ceramic insert
Triangle, indices and numerals coated with Super-LumiNova®
Can be turned counterclockwise

GLASS
Convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire crystal

CASE BACK
Screwed case back
Engraved limited-edition number „XXX/112“

WATER RESISTANCE
Water-resistant up to 30 bar/30 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310

MOVEMENT

CALIBER
Mechanical movement: Sellita SW 200-1 oder Soprod
28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
25 jewels

POWER RESERVE
38 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS
Three-hand, hour, minute and second display
Genuine three-hand movement with date display
Special display designed to support emergency responders

DIAL

DIAL
Dark blue dial with modern Hanhart logo
Additional highlighted “1” at 12 o’clock to emphasise the European emergency number 112
Red Flame and Red Lion – Official Emblem of the Baden-Württemberg Firefighters Association

NUMBERS
Super-Luminova® coated

HANDS
Super-Luminova® coated
Skeletonized hour and minute hands

STRAP

STRAP
Rubber, textile strap or stainless steel bracelet
Lug width 20 mm

COLORS
Black, blue or stainless steel

BUCKLE
Folding clasp

Summer Repeat: She Loves America

I first ran this one in "the Blog fornerly known as Tempus Fugit" several years ago.  Sadly, it's as true today as it ever was. So for you, gentle reader, a cautionary tale about the perils of not developing local talent -

 

She Loves America… but America doesn't Love Her.

This was, albeit the short form, the sentiment that I heard from a blogger colleague of mine referring to the recently appointed replacement coming to "save" the North American subsidiary of "brand x".

I've written on this topic before, but with the inevitable annual "house cleaning" session that we are about to witness, it seemed like a pertinent topic again.  Please indulge me while I revisit the ongoing challenge faced by the watch industry in the US and Canada.  So basically, brand x is in Switzerland.  They have tried several different solutions, that like death can be broken down into specific stages:

1.  Go with a distributor for about 10 years.
Everything seemed to be going okay.  Sales were very, very strong.  But then they started to hear rumblings.  Their watches were showing up in many places that were not exactly "official retail partners" which is a polite way of saying "grey market".  How did that happen?  Simple, the distributor wrote very large orders to stores and store owners who in fact were doing massive amounts of trans-shipping.  In other words, although some of the watches were in the "front area", the majority of the watches were being sold out the back door before they even made it into the store's safe.  So a change had to be made.

2.  Hosanna!  We have the solution!  A young Swiss sales manager saddles-up and heads across the water to "take the situation in hand".  And like any great television sitcom, hilarity ensues!  Language and cultural miscommunication leads to acrimonious feelings between the "natives" and the "over lord".

Sounds pretty harsh?  Trust me, I've heard worse from both sides.  This situation is destined to fail for a number of reasons, but essentially what resonates is that:

To the parent company - The North American team sucks.  They are little children that clearly can't handle the job, and we have to "keep an eye" on them.

To the "home team" - Oh great, another "idiot son" sent to "train for the future" by running the North American subsidiary.  This genius can't even figure out where the toilet is!

Needless to say, things don't work out.  A year to three is about how long this usually runs.

3.  Okay,  let's hire someone to run our subsidiary.  And while everyone may love this person, they stand about the same chances as any new restaurant opening.  Because at this point, the feeling is that things better go right.  This person will usually be given about half the time to fix or establish the brand.    Very few people can do it, and those who can't?  Well don't worry, you'll see them working for a different brand inside of 6 months.

So what am I trying to say here?  PATIENCE needs to be the policy.  Your brand didn't go bad overnight, it was a slow, but steady process.  You will not be able to "fix" your brand overnight either.  Be realistic, and unless your Brand Manager gets caught with a dead body and a bath tub full of cocaine, give them a bit more time - good things, some times take time.

The Promenade - GOUTTE DE ROSÉE

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek

This is the latest from Czapek. The Promenade - GOUTTE DE ROSÉE.

Courtesy of Czapek

The case is of yellow gold and measures 38 mm in diameter.

The movement is Czapek's automatic Calibre SXH5.

Limited to 25 pieces, and priced at 32,000.00 CHF (Excl. VAT)

YES! Mathey - Tissot!

There is a lot of snobbery in Watch Town and Watch Town adjacent. It often reminds me of the scene in Bottle Shock where the somewhat uptight English wine merchant brilliantly played by Alan Rickman defends his contempt for California wines (unknowingly) to California vinyard / winery owner played by Bill Pullman, and Pullman calls bullshit:

            "You're a snob, it limits you" 

I had the very great pleasure of meeting the folks at Mathey-Tissot at Time to Watches in Geneva last month. I picked up a modest (but damn good looking) Mathey-Tissot quartz piece. And I noticed some real beauties lurking nearby. And upon further reflection, I found this beauty.

Courtesy of Mathey-Tissot

This is the 1968. And while my quest for a birth year watch has proved fruitless for some time, this wonderful time machine quite well scratches the itch for me!

It is special.

The case measures 41 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel. The movement is Landeron's self-winding 73B. 

The asking price? So totally fair at $2,579.00 US.

I would highly, HIGHLY recommend that if you're in the market for something special, have a good look at the Mathey-Tissot 1968. 

There is a LOT of noise, posturing, and posing in Watch Town, but the 1968 absolutely strikes a chord with yours truly, it is something that stands on its own. 

I hope to have more Mathey-Tissot goodness to share in the coming weeks.

The People You Meet on Vacation...Nepro

Before I go too deep into Nepro's triumphant return, I'm gonna' hop into the way-back machine to 1978.

Way back when dinosaurs were roaming the earth, my grandfather decided that the one thing that every 10 year old needed was an LED watch.  So a very large, very chunky LED watch arrived and was given to me.

Courtesy of SMU Digital Libraries

I LOVED that watch, hitting the buttons incessantly.  It worked for all of a week before malfunctioning.  We sent it back to the folks at Texas Instruments and were told to wait a month.  Only to receive a BRAND NEW identical model less than a week later, swiftly followed by the original "repaired" model a week after that.  Spoiler alert - both watches died within a week of arrival.  

So when I came across the Nepro table at Time to Watches in Geneva, I at once felt pangs of nostalgia, hope, desire, and frankly? A fear of being "hurt" again...

I saw the Nepro on Saturday, befor the last day of the fair. And I was pretty much obsessed for the balance of my stay. Rational, reasonable thoughts were replaced by the absolute conviction that the Nepro was absolutely fundamental to my future happiness. Fortunately, one non-solar piece was found. Digital currency was exchanged, and it came home with me. 

Now in truth? I am not proposing that what will follow later this week will be a review. My attachment to my new Nepro LED watch is now a little too deep for me to be really objective. But with that said, it is my sincere hope that maybe - just maybe, you can go home again - and you're watch will actually make it to Christmas still working  - I have a good feeling about this one ; )

Stay tuned!

Numptys...

Per the Urban Dictionary -
Numpty:
Dialect, chiefly scots. A bumbling fool or one who is intellectually challanged.
(plural : numpties)
"they numpties couldnae organise a pissup in a brewery."
In reference to MSPs( members of scottish parliment). numpty by Gerry K. April 26, 2005

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

Unlike most of my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estates of Watch Town, I have held off on commenting on Hayek "the Younger's" latest thirst trap. By and large, I like Swatch, own a bunch, and even plumped for a Blancpain x Swatch as well as a Mission to Mars. They're fun.

And without going into the pros and cons of whether or not $420 American is wisely spent on this latest outing, I want to reflect on the shit-show that was Swatch's lack of common sense regarding the launch of the Royal Pop. Or to paraphrase James Corder's bon mots - Is human life only worth $420?

You can read his insightful commentary here, it is well worth your time -

https://www.watchpro.com/corders-column-somebody-could-have-been-killed-today-over-a-400-swatch/

While seeing crowds buzzing is good for business, I would like to think we have moved on from the Bernie Ecclestine / Hublot "if it bleeds, it leads" approach to marketing -

Courtesy of Hublot

And while many of us are sharing our feelings, curious to relate? It appears that neither Mr. Hayek, or Ms. Resta have been particularly forthcoming with coments following a highly anticipated, partially aborted launch capped off with near riots. Think I'm being overly dramatic? Simply put, riot police aren't typically dispatched to your neighborhood mall over a parking dispute, or a getting the wrong order at Orange Julius... 

While some folks will hopefully get and truly appreciate their new pocket watch, my sincere hope is that in Biel/Bienne and Le Brassus there might be just a wee bit of reflection on how this was handled, and maybe (doubtful, I know) maybe one of these two leaders can put their egos aside and accept the responsibility for the situation and offer some sort of acknowledgement.

I know, this is about as likely to happen as me being invited on an AP press junket ; )

Or to paraphrase the closing scene in one of my favorite films -

"Forget it, Henki. It's Watch Town."

Perhaps Just Under the Radar - The Epos 3408

Okay, spoiler alert - Epos has some really cool new watches coming soon. That's all I will say for now. But with that said, they have some true gems that might not be on your radar, but should! So let "the weekend of Epos" begin!

Courtesy of Epos

This is the Epos 3408. It is singularly perfect.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter. Simple, elegant, and wonderful.

Courtesy of Epos

The movement is the Peseux 7001.  Again, simple. But remember - simple is not dumb. Simple is elegant, only what is needed, albeit with a beautiful finish.

And finally? In these uncertain times, we are all more that a wee bit price sensitive. Well, Epos has you covered - priced at US$ 1'710 here in the lower 48.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement
Base Movement	Peseux 7001
Type	Hand-Wound
Execution	Decorated
Date Functions	None

Case
Material	Stainless Steel
Color	Steel
Diameter	39 mm
Thickness	5.9 mm
Lugs	20 mm
Front Crystal	Scratch-Resistant Sapphire
Back	See-Through Mineral
Water Resistance	3 ATM

Dial
Color	Muted Olive Green
Execution	Sunblasted
Hour Markers	Index Applied
Strap
Material	Leather
Color	Black
Buckle	Pin Buckle (Folding Buckle on request)