Saturday, May 16, 2026

Perhaps Just Under the Radar - The Epos 3408

Okay, spoiler alert - Epos has some really cool new watches coming soon. That's all I will say for now. But with that said, they have some true gems that might not be on your radar, but should! So let "the weekend of Epos" begin!

Courtesy of Epos

This is the Epos 3408. It is singularly perfect.
The case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter. Simple, elegant, and wonderful.

Courtesy of Epos

The movement is the Peseux 7001.  Again, simple. But remember - simple is not dumb. Simple is elegant, only what is needed, albeit with a beautiful finish.

And finally? In these uncertain times, we are all more that a wee bit price sensitive. Well, Epos has you covered - priced at US$ 1'710 here in the lower 48.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement
Base Movement

Peseux 7001

Type

Hand-Wound

Execution

Decorated

Date Functions

None

Case
Material

Stainless Steel

Color

Steel

Diameter

39 mm

Thickness

5.9 mm

Lugs

20 mm

Front Crystal

Scratch-Resistant Sapphire

Back

See-Through Mineral

Water Resistance

3 ATM

Dial
Color

Muted Olive Green

Execution

Sunblasted

Hour Markers

Index Applied

Strap
Material

Leather

Color

Black

Buckle

Pin Buckle (Folding Buckle on request)

Friday, May 15, 2026

The BR-X3 Patrouille de France

From Bell & Ross -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest from Bell & Ross. For the past several years they have partnered with the Patrouille de France aerobatic team for a special watch. This year's version is limited to 250 pieces.

The asking is $8,100.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Bell & Ross -

Movement : Manufacture. Automatic Mechanical Movement. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

Functions : Hours, minutes and seconds. Date window at 3 o'clock and power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock.

Case : 41 mm wide. 13.30 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Decorative side pillar and bezel in blue anodised aluminium with micro-blasted finish. Sapphire case-back featuring a custom metallised Patrouille de France logo.

Dial : Three-plate construction – matt black base, blue and white skeletonised applique, matt black insert – with polished and rhodium-plated “Baignoire-style” applique indices, filled with white Super-LumiNova® BGW9 Grade X1 (blue glow). Patrouille de France logo at 6 o'clock. Power reserve window featuring the colours of the French flag (blue, white and red). Skeletonised rhodium-plated hour and minutes hands filled with Super-LumiNova® BGW9 Grade X1 (blue glow).

Crystal : Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance : 100 metres.

Strap : Openworked black rubber and blue ultra-resilient synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.

Thursday, May 14, 2026

The calendario quattro anni (cqa)

From ochs und junior -

Courtesy of ochs und junior

In honor of their 20th anniversary, ochs und junior has released an annual calendar good for four years.

This is a pre-order item, deliveries are anticipated to begin in October. Initial price is: CHF 6,900 – Export price 
CHF 7,460 – incl. 8.1% Swiss VAT

Here are the pertinents -

Case:
Grade 5 titanium, 40 mm  

Dial: 
circular graining in oj blue patina with markers decorated with white gold | Hour and minute hands, adorned in white gold | Second hand in orange | Date and month display in orange  

Movement:
ETA 2824-2 

Strap: 
Enzian in Ecopell calfskin, with or without orange stitching, available in sizes small, medium, large, or extra-large 

Weight: 
65 g (with buckle and strap) 
Warranty: two years 
Non-customizable.

Sunday, May 3, 2026

The BR-03 Green Steel

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest in the BR-03 family. A three-hand automatic with date - in green.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41 mm in diameter. The movement is self-winding with a power reserve of 54 hours.

Here are all the pertinents -


Movement :
 Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic Mechanical Movement. 54-hour power reserve.

Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case : 41 mm wide. 9.65 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel.

Dial : Green sunray with black gradient, coated with glossy lacquer. “Baignoire-style” applique indices and numerals filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow). Skeletonised rhodium-plated hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow).

Crystal : Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance : 100 metres.

Strap : Black-coloured box calfskin leather and black ultra-resilient synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.


Priced at $4,100.

The Rallye Méca Quartz Chronographe GPFH 2026

From Lip -
Courtesy of Lip

This is the latest from the folks in Besançon. A new take on their Rallye chronograph collection.

In their own words -


LIP Rallye Chronograph Grand Prix de France Historique – Limited Edition 2026

The house of LIP has created a third exclusive model, in a limited and numbered edition, co-branded with the Grand Prix de France Historique to celebrate its third year as the Official Timekeeper. This season’s inspiration comes from the cyan blue run-off stripes that are iconic on the Circuit Paul Ricard.

The case is of polished stainless steel, and measures 39 mm in diameter.
The movement is a meca quartz.

Limited to 1,906 pieces, and priced at €349.00
Tax included.



Saturday, May 2, 2026

The People You Meet on Vacation...Seven Days with the Manifesta

From Rotoris -



What I miss about BaselWorld, but am hoping to see more of in Geneva moving forward is the random chance meetings with emerging brands.

And one such meeting involved the founders of a watch brand that I had never heard of, but suspect will be the talk of watch fans moving forward. More about Founder and CEO Aakash Anand, and Co-Founder and Chief Creative Officer Prerna Gupta in a later post. Today is all about the Rotoris Manifesta.

Courtessy of Rotoris

The Manifesta is an interesting paradox. It is an extremely well-crafted, beautifully executed self-winding watch that is priced well within reach of almost any watch fan from the thrifty yet aspiring to the deep-pocketed. And in truth? This is a watch that will appeal to everyone across the board.


Rotoris is driven by the ethos of creating a luxury watch in India. But (and this might just be my perception) there also seems to be a desire to make a product that is not beyond the reach of everyone. Let's call it inclusive luxury.  While many of the watch components are from outside of India, the Manifesta is assembled in India. 

The beating heart (in this case, quite literally) of the Manifesta is the RSGA01. This is a calibre developed in partnership with Seagull, built on the ST2502K architecture, but specifically modified for Rotoris.



Seagull has come a very, very long way in terms of quality and stability. And the performance of the Manifesta in terms of time keeping have been top-notch. It has had no significant deviations (loss or gain) in time keeping. But more than that, the setting and winding has been surprising - in a good way. The crown is tactile, yet very smooth and forgiving to the touch, and the winding is gentle, not brittle or scratchy sounding. 

But let's get down to brass tacks, wearing comfort. You could have the most accurate watch in the world, but if it is not comfortable to wear, it will sit in your dresser drawer. 

A lot of wearing comfort is down to design and execution of the case itself.


The Manifesta's case has a wonderful curvature, ensuring it sits comfortably on the wrist. The dimensions are what I often refer to as "Goldilocks" - just right ; )


It measures 40 mm in diameter, with gently curved lugs. It is of stainless steel with a gold pvd finish. The curve and shape are gentle. The crystal is sapphire, making the black onyx dial truly pop.

The strap is teju lizard and crafted in India.


It is paired with a matching deployant clasp -


So if you were hoping to get your hands on one, this is a good news / not-so-good news review. The Manifesta has come and gone (limited edition), but the good news is that Rotoris is playing the long game. Small releases, teased out one at a time, with wait lists that far exceed the production numbers. So if you missed this one, stay tuned - Rotoris has plenty more magic up their sleeves!

People We Meet On Vacation - Watch Town

It's now been a little over two weeks since I got back from my week in Geneva. For those of you reading, you might be thinking like I once did - "it would be soooooo cool to work for a watch brand!" 

Well, yes and no. It's important to understand that you will be working (literally) 12 hour days for a week straight. And in my case? You are using the vacation time from your day job to do so. So yes, I do enjoy it, but it is not lost on me that this is work.

This is all by way of telling you that one of the things that keeps drawing me back is the possibility of meeting what Billy Kwan (played by Linda Hunt) referred to as the "unmet friend" the film adaptation of Christopher Koch's novel, The Year of Living Dangerously. Now in Billy Kwan's case it was the hope of meeting an idealized version of some confidant you can share everything with. In my case? I like to think of it more like Ted Lasso:
"Congrats, you both just met a cool person".

This year was not different. Several old friends reengaged with, some of the usual suspects coming through, and some wonderful encounters, completely unexpected.

I will be sharing two of those with you, along with the time machines that set them in motion. Stay tuned!

Saturday, April 25, 2026

MECHANICA CHRONO "NINE IN TEN"

From Done -
Courtesy of Done 

While I might have announced this in an earlier some time back, I actually got to take the Mechanica Chrono for a spin around the halls of Geneva.



This was originally announced this new piece last December, but now that I have had a chance to try it on and put it through its paces?


Let me put all doubts aside - YOU WANT THIS WATCH! I certainly know that I do!


In speaking with the man behind Done, Thierry Clottu, the Nine in Ten will start shipping in June.

As a reminder, here are the pertinents -

Watch diameter
40mm
Bracelet/Strap width
20mm on the case and 18mm on the buckle
Water-resistant
10 ATM (100m)
Movement power reserve
60 hours (±2h)
Crown
Engraved with DONE logo
Case back
Screwed with sapphire crystal and consecutive number
Movement frequency
4Hz
Hands
Faceted and diamond-polished with Superluminova C1
Case Material
Stainless Steel
Type of watches
Chronograph
Movement
Automatic chronograph L111
Watch box
Leather travel pouch designed to hold multiple watch straps

Wednesday, April 22, 2026

The Transfer Window is Swinging WIDE OPEN

At House of Brands...


Freshly returned from Geneva, let's just say the multiple reincarnations taking place at the freshly minted "House of Brands" was a topic much discussed by Watch Town's cognoscenti. Curious to relate - fan boys and girls had nothing but sunshine for these re-re-re-releases. Gallet had actually been operating, albeit poorly, up until very recently, so this cannot really be placed in the class of a UG lift.
For those of us in Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates, let's just say we are divided. Those who crave to maintain their invitations for comped travel with celebrity "squadies" will no doubt bark like the trained seals they have come to be, waiting to be fed the tasty sardine that is a luxury press junket. For the rest of us...

Well, while I do appreciate the operating policy of not intentionally trying to "yuck someone's yum", I have to look at this through a bigger lens. While Breitling is certainly a brand most folks are aware of, it continues to lean heavily on celebrity "chums of the brand" while the prices climb relentlessly upward. And many folks are starting to ask if the juice is worth the squeeze. I'm not saying it is, or is not. I have my eye firmly on getting a Breitling Montbrillant Eclipse so although I'm not a fan boy, I appreciate a fine watch when I see one.

So then we get onto the now churning debate as to whether or not Universal Geneve has been priced appropriately. Well, the word around the campfire in Geneva (at least as spoken by those not fearful of being uninvited next year) was a fairly firm no. But then in fairness, it is a deeper question as to whether or not we (the press and employees of other brands) are really in a demographic that will matter in terms of sales. Probably not.

As for Gallet? Not unlike poor Yorick, I knew it. It was a brand bought by someone who then hired someone else to run it. It produced (if memory serves) a chronograph or two that were priced at dollar amounts not usually requested without the aid of a pistol and a getaway car. One abortive BaselWorld appearance in old Hall 2 was the high point.

And so now we have another "squad" set to be unleashed to put this all in motion.

Per World Tempus, Mr. Kern shared the following -


In the context of the creation of our House of Brands which includes Breitling, newly launched Universal Genève and upcoming Gallet, we have decided to further strengthen our executive leadership team and organization to drive continuous strong development of all three brands.

As CEO of House of Brands, I welcome Jean-Marc Pontroué to support the development of House of Brands as newly appointed CEO of Breitling. With an extensive career in the luxury watch industry at Montblanc and as CEO of Roger Dubuis (since 2011) and Panerai (since 2018), he brings long-standing experience in retail, wholesale and marketing.


Grégory Bruttin continues to build on the momentum created by the recent successful brand relaunch of Universal Genève and is appointed its Managing Director.

Erwan Rossignol is preparing with his team the relaunch of Gallet by the end of August 2026 and is appointed its Managing Director.

Antoine Loron (34) assumes newly the role of President of Breitling USA and Canada and joins the executive leadership board of Breitling and its product committee. His appointment follows a fast-tracked sales career first in our headquarters and his outstanding entrepreneurial successes in the Caribbean and Latin America. He will build on the strong foundations achieved by current President USA and Canada, Thierry Prissert, who has driven exceptional growth over the past fifteen years by successfully elevating our wholesale channel, establishing an extensive boutique network and securing our global NFL partnership. Thierry Prissert will continue to support Breitling’s brand expansion and the introduction of Universal Genève and Gallet in the American market and transition to chairman of the House of Brands USA board.

Renato Meier, currently Marketing Director of Breitling USA and Canada, having achieved strong momentum in marketing activations in the region, succeeds Antoine Loron as Managing Director of Breitling LATAM.

Together with our excellent current executive leadership team, we are well positioned to develop the full potential of our House of Brands. All changes will take effect in May 2026.

Georges Kern, CEO House of Brands.


As with all comings and goings in Watch Town, we won't really know anything until the dust settles, but we wish Mr. Kern and his squad good luck and Godspeed.