Sunday, October 4, 2026

Wrapping Up Seven Days with the Islander Astoria Automatic

While perhaps not all good things must come to an end, a one-week watch review by its very nature must ;  )


I have spent the last seven days with the Islander Astoria Automatic, and it has been a revelatory experience. Most of you familiar with Islander watches will know that it is sometimes thought of as the "house brand" for Long Island Watch, a very well-established e-commerce watch seller. But what you then also probably know is that the owner, Marc Frankel, is one of the most perspicacious chroniclers of watches around through his You Tube presence. He is also more than a bit of a rock star with watch collectors. Think I'm exaggerating? Go to the Wind Up Watch Fair in NYC from the 16 - 18 of this month. Try to get close enough to say hello and shake hands. You will be battling a scrum of fans and well-wishers. Yes, he is that popular. But one other thing about Marc - he is actually as nice and engaging as advertised. But I've already gone a bit off topic, so back to the matter at hand.



Back at the turn of the last century, there was a bit of a fascination with tounneau (that's barrel for you non-francophones out there) style watch cases. You might recall they were the calling card for one Franck Muller watches. But even at the more pedestrian levels they were a hot item. And the tounneau bug first bit me when I clapped eyes on the Tissot Porto. Actually, that is only half true. I encountered the Porto's older sister, the Lisboa while transiting (as I did about 5 times a year) through Kastrup airport in Copenhagen either on my way back home to Helsinki, or to London for business. It was a classic looking watch with a twist on a tank style. But it fell out of production before I could pull the trigger, and this was when Ebay was in its infancy. So the Porto really came out just in time for me. 

The pros of the Porto - design clues consistent with Franck Muller's big-boy tonneau.

The cons (and sorry Tissot, there were several) - the case was waaaaay too big. Also easily scratched. But into the bargain the case felt "tinny", not the sort of gravitas you expected for the size. The self-winding movement was more than okay. But in truth, I never fuly warmed to it. It was too big and felt a little "thirsty" as it was a dead ringer for it's more expensive competitor.

Now in fairness, that was 25 years ago. And tempus has clearly fugited since then. 

And that is why I was so interested when I stumbled across the Islander Astoria Automatic on my Instagram feed. 

So now that we've completed more than enough preamble, let's get down to the review.

The case, while smaller than my star-crossed Tissot Porto falls into my "Goldilocks" category of just right. It measures 34 mm in diameter, and is 37 mm on the vertical scale. It's total lug to lug is a very harmonious 44.2 mm. 


The case back is solid, and in truth, I am so tired of looking at plain, undecorated movements I prefer it this way. But the case back also has a visual story to impart. The engraving is a rendering of Steinway Manor which is located in Astoria - hence the name.

The edges are smooth, not sharp, the fit is comfortable, and the size of the watch will be a good fit for most of the folks out there.

The dial is another nice touch. The texture and pattern add depth to the watch face as a whole, and the use of 4 roman numerals (at 12, 3, 6, and 9) is nicely complimented by indices to complete the whole. 

The movement is Miyota's 9055 (no date). The time keeping has been solid, and I only needed one time correction over the course of this review week.


The setting and winding was smooth. The crown bears the Islander logo, and is smooth to the touch, yet tactile at the same time.

The strap's lug width is 18 mm, tapering down to 16 mm at the clasp, which also bears the Islander logo.


The strap is made of fabric with a leather backing. And this would really be my only critique. The quality and comfort are there, and I ALWAYS appreciate quick springs. But I would have probably preferred all leather. That's just little me, we all have our preferences. With that being said, it looks quite smart and as mentioned is comfortable to wear all day.



The dial and hands are lumed, and in all honesty, I am glad that they are. It is a subtle application that does not overwhelm, but rather enhances the watch's aesthetics. And there is one fun little Easter egg. If you look closely at the Roman numeral at 6 o'clock, you will notice that the right half of the V in the VI is actually the world ISLANDER printed out ; )
 
Now ultimately, inevitably, we have to talk about price. The Islander Astoria is priced at $359! That is a lot of wrist-bound-time-machine goodness for not a lot of money!

And while I personally love the pink, there are still two other color possibilities out there for you if pink is not your jam.

So, from your pal Henki's perspective, this is a wonderful watch at a very, very aggressive price. It is well finished, performs well, and truthfully? It gave me joy to wear. As mentioned previously, the only thing I would change is the strap, but that is it.

Should you wish to do some further research, here are the pertinents, straight from Islander:

Movement: Miyota 90S5 Hi-Beat Automatic (self-winding, hand wind, hacks)

Case: Stainless Steel

Case Diameter: 34mm

Case Height: 9.2mm

Case Lug to Lug: Stainless steel, 34mm x 37mm, 9.2mm thick, 44.2mm lug to lug

Case Back: Solid etched caseback held with screws

Crystal: Sapphire

Band: Leather backed fabric, quick release, 18mm

Band Width: 18mm

Water Resistance: 50 meters

Weight: 53 grams

Warranty: 1 year

Hope

 From Mauron Musy -

Courtesy of Mauron Musy

This is a unique (as in singular) version based on the MU06 UniX created in support of the Watches for ELA auction this November.


Here are the details from the Watches for ELA listing:

MAURON MUSY
REF. MU06-115 'LIGHT OF HOPE'

Mauron Musy presents a unique 41 mm Grade 5 titanium timepiece centered on its handcrafted midnight-blue ‘Light of Hope’ dial. Christophe Musy has personally handwritten the word ‘Hope’ across the dial, almost invisible by day before emerging through Super-LumiNova in low light, a symbolic detail conceived especially for ELA. The caseback is engraved ‘PIÈCE UNIQUE’ and reveals the Manufacture MM02 automatic micro-rotor calibre beneath. Combining the brand’s patented gasket-free nO-Ring® water-resistance technology with an evocative expression of hope, this singular creation unites Mauron Musy’s engineering expertise with a deeply symbolic design.

Estimation

CHF 15,000–25,000


Friday, October 2, 2026

The King of Cool and Hanhart

Introducing the 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1, from Hanhart.
Courtesy of Hanhart

It has long been known that Steve McQueen appreciated and wore a Hanhart 417. Several photos of him at Baja, in his living room, and on his motorcycle bear out the fact that he was perhaps one of the most iconic unofficial brand ambassadors out there. And it seems fitting that Hanhart has partnered up with the McQueen family to issue the Steve McQueen Limited Edition No.1.


Based on the 417, this one is limited to 300 pieces worldwide.

Courtesy of Hanhart

The case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter. The movement is Sellita's hand winding flyback - the AMT5100 M.

Courtesy of Hanhart

It is priced at Price: 2.890 € incl. German VAT, $3,570.00 US in the lower 48.

CASE:

Size
Diameter 39 mm
Height with glass 13.3 mm (11.55 mm without glass)
Lug to Lug: 46 mm

MATERIAL
Stainless steel, satin/polished

BEZEL
Fluted bezel with red insert
Rotatable on both sides, stepless rotation
Red push button made of HyCeram®

GLASS
Convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Highly domed sapphire crystal (as in the historical model)

CASE BACK
Screw-on case back with sapphire crystal
Engraved limited edition number XXX/300

WATERPROOF
Waterproof up to 10 bar/10 ATM according to DIN 8310

MOVEMENT:

CALIBER
manual winding
Sellita AMT5100 M
28,800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 stones

Gear reserve
58 hours after full elevator

FEATURES
Flyback
Small second
30-minute counter
Central stop second
Second stop device

DIAL:

DIAL
Black
Historical logo
With Steve McQueen's signature

NUMBERS
Historical font
Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium GL coated

POINTER
Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium GL coated
The minute and second hands are bent at the end to avoid parallax errors.

STRAP:

Dark brown leather bracelet with under-band
Lug width 20 mm

COLOR
Dark brown

CLASP
Buckle with historical logo

Saturday, September 26, 2026

Some More News from Wind Vintage x True North

And just prior to the release of the Wind Vintage x True North Dreamsicle, the Winds (Eric and Christine) were in Vatican City where they had the opportunity to present his Holiness, Pope Leo with a personalized Dreamsicle of his own!

Courtesy of Wind Vintage


Per Eric Wind's socials -

"Last week, Christine and I had the honor of gifting His Holiness Pope Leo XIV with the new Wind Vintage x True North Watch Company Vintage Rally Timer IV (the “Dreamsicle”) at the Vatican. I told the Pope, “Holy Father, a birthday gift from Palm Beach” and presented him with the watch. He took the watch in his hand, studied it, smiled, and said, 'Thank you.' "

Courtesy of Wind Vintage x True North

And for those of getting ready to place your orders on Friday, October 2nd, I encourage you move "sharpish" as this one is going to move fast.


Thursday, September 24, 2026

The Vintage Rally Timer IV (VRT IV) Dreamsicle

From Wind Vintage x True North -

Courtesy of Wind Vintage & True North

This is the 4th edition of the Wind Vintage & True North collaboration - also sometimes known as the "Windtona". 


Courtesy of Wind Vintage & True North


This one has been dubbed the Dreamsicle. Per Wind Vintage:

Following the success of its previous three collaborations, Wind Vintage has teamed up with True North again for a new chronograph.

Offered in a new colorway with a pale orange dial, the Wind Vintage x True North Watch Company Vintage Rally Timer IV “Dreamsicle” is a tribute to Eric Wind his love for pale orange and his daughters’ love for pastel colors. It is a watch that offers the feel of a vintage watch with a totally unique dial and bezel color scheme. The Dreamsicle is limited to 1,986 pieces in honor of vintage expert Eric Wind’s birth year and turning 40 this year. The watch comes in a special edition box with orange printing.


The Vintage Rally Timer IV (VRT IV) Dreamsicle is priced at $490 US.

Here are the pertinents -


37mm case diameter, 44mm lug-to-lug case length, 13.8mm case thickness, 20mm lug width, domed sapphire-coated mineral crystal and sapphire-coated bezel, 50-meter water resistance, 316L stainless steel case and bracelet, and Seiko (SII) VK63 Mechaquartz Watch Movement. The SII (Seiko Instruments) caliber VK63 is part of the hybrid mechanical quartz movement line. It is a chronograph movement that uses quartz technology for the main functions of the watch and a mechanical module for operating the chronograph.

Wednesday, September 23, 2026

The 1941 Quadrivium Tantalum

From Grönefeld -

Courtesy of Grönefeld

This is the latest from the Grönefeld brothers Tim and Bart. This is the 1941Quadrivium in tantalum.

Quadrivium (Quad) has four complications in this one watch. Per Grönefeld:

The 1941 Quadrivium unites four of the brand’s most admired complications within a single, extraordinary watch. Developed entirely from the ground up, it features a 7.5-seconds remontoire, a one-minute flying tourbillon, central jumping seconds, and a power reserve indicator, all driven by a movement equipped with serially connected concentric twin barrels.


Courtesy of Grönefeld

This new model is available in two different versions - tantalum (above) and platinum.

Both are limited to 28 pieces.

Should you have the means and the inclination, here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

Movement

Calibre G-09

Mechanical hand-wound movement; tourbillon, remontoire, dead seconds and power reserve indicator

Movement

Diameter 32.0 mm
Thickness: 6.15 mm

Number of components

473 parts in the whole movement

Number of jewels

49 jewels, partially set in gold chatons

Power reserve

50 hours
A satellite-wheel mechanism provides a precise indication of the remaining power reserve

Barrels

Two coaxially arranged barrels connected in series toprovide a continuous and balanced energy supply

Tourbillon

One minute flying tourbillon cage made in stainless steel Durnico 

Balance wheel

Titatium free sprung variable inertia balance wheel (10.0 mm diameter)

Frequency

21.600 vibrations/hour

Balance spring

Phillips terminal overcoil curve; Geneva-style stud

Escapement

Swiss lever escapement

Main Plate

Spotted and snailed ruthenium plated brass

Bridges

Hand bevelled; stainless steel. Micro-blasted centre; circular grain on the top; relief engraved in the micro blasted surface

Dead seconds

A dedicated dead-seconds mechanism, positioned above the conventional going train, allows the escapement to operate at its natural frequency while regulating the seconds-hand to advance in precise one-second intervals

Winding-setting

Conventional winding and setting mechanism; hacking seconds at the 60 seconds position

Case and Dial

Case

1941 Design. Round, three-piece case featuring a domed sapphire crystal on the front, with anti-glare treatment on both sides. The flat sapphire crystal on the case back is also treated with anti-glare coating on both sides. The case is engraved with the serial number and secured by eight security screws

Number of components

Case: 24 parts
Dial/hands: 27 parts

Case dimensions

Diameter: 40.0 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm

Water resistance

3 atmospheres - 30 meters - 100 feet

Crown

Engraved with “G” logo

Dial

Base dial in brass, applied stainless steel segments and white gold hour markers. Choice of 5 colors

Hands

Hours and minutes, large counter poised seconds,power-reserve. All hands are steel and heat blued

Indications

Small hours and minutes at 2 o’clock
Extra long jumping seconds hand at the center
Power reserve indicator at 10 o'clock
Visible flying tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock
Visible governor of the remontoire mechanism at 9 o'clock

Strap

Hand-sewn leather, 20mm-18mm

Buckle

Tantalum or Platinum pin buckle, engraved with Grönefeld logo. 18mm

Weight

Tantalum approximately 108 grams, including strap and buckle
Platinum approximately 120 grams, including strap and buckle

‍




Friday, September 18, 2026

Reintroducing...E.F. Bowman

Some news from Lancaster PA. RGM (Roland Murphy) have introduced, or possibly reintroduced E.F. Bowman watches.

Courtesy of E.F. Bowman

For those of you (like me) unaware, E.F.Bowman was Ezra F. Bowman. Born in Lancaster, Pennsylvania he apprenticed with a Swiss watchmaker, cofounded an ultimately unsuccessful watch company - Adams & Perry Watch Co. He later opened a jewelry store, and even a watchmaking school.

While it would be easy to assume that this was just the revival of a name, it is, in fact, based upon the RGM 501.

Obviously more to come ; )

Courtesy of E.F. Bowman

RGM is the new steward of the E.F. Bowman legacy, and this new offering shows all the quality and care you would expect from the Mt. Joy PA based brand.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the
source -
RGM Model 501-EFB

Constructed using timeless techniques that were used in fine mechanical watches of the past, like the original American-made E. F. Bowman pocket watches of the late 1800s.

The 1920s Patek Philippe pocket watch pictured below, which Patek Philippe originally made for Ezra F. Bowman & Sons, inspired the unique dial and hands of the new Model 501-EFB wristwatch.

Dial: White Grand Feu fired enamel

Hands: Blued steel

Movement Caliber: RGM-finished Swiss-made ASE 200 micro-rotor automatic, 33 jewels, 21,600 vph. Rhodium radial finish - perlage, with RGM made solid gold plaque on the winding rotor. 86-hour power reserve.

Functions: Hour / Minute / Second /

Case: 316L Stainless Steel, 39 mm x 11.3 mm at the top of the crystal. Box-style Sapphire crystal front and flat back crystal, 20mm lug width, and water-resistant to 5-ATM. Case length from lug end to lug end: 48mm. Gold or Platinum can be special ordered.

Weight: 2.5 oz. in stainless steel

Priced at $16,950



Promenade L'Écume des Jours

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek

This is the latest from Czapek, the Promenade L'Écume des Jours. The inspiration for this piece is a novel by French non vivant Boris Vian, L'Écume des jours. A rather interesting choice as the novel tells the tale of love and loss (fair enough) but caps off with his pet mouse killing itself... 

But then again, Monsieur Vian was a man of passions. A man who (if Wikipedia is to be believed) shouted these bon mots: "These guys are supposed to be American? My ass!" before keeling over from a heart attack at the screening of a film version of his 1946 roman noir (dark noir crime fiction) novel I Shall Spit on Your Graves (J'irai cracher sur vos tombes).  He was also an active figure in jazz among other artistic pursuits, an inspirational and supportive figure to Serge Gainsbourg, and as if all that wasn't enough, he was a formally trained metallurgist.

Courtesy of Czapek

But back to the matter at hand, the Promenade L'Écume des Jours. 

Per Czapek:

Courtesy of Czapek

PROMENADE 
L’Écume des jours
38 mm stainless steel case, dial layered in blue enamel, mother-of pearl and jade, with a laser-cut titanium water lily seconds in miniature painting, in-house Calibre SXH5.1 with micro-rotor. Limited edition of 18 pieces.

FUNCTIONS • Hours, minutes, small seconds at 4:30

MOVEMENT • Caliber SXH5.1 : Czapek's in house selfwinding mechanical movement with small seconds • Diameter: 30 mm – 13 lines ¼ • Height: 4.2 mm • Number of parts: 127 • Jewels: 26 • Swiss lever escapement, variable-inertia balance fitted with four gold inertia-blocks • Frequency: 4 Hz – 28800 VpH • Power winding system: micro-rotor with a recycled 950 platinum mass • Power-reserve: 60 hours on a single barrel • Barrel torque: 8 Nmm

FINISH • Open ratchets, sandblasted black b

CASE • 38mm stainless steel case • Height : 10.8 mm • Lug to lug (12h to 6h) : 42 mm • Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment • Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side • Water resistance: 50 mm

DIAL • A layered dial built on a Goutte d’Eau enamel base, with a mother-of-pearl ring bearing hand-painted piano-key touches, a jade leaf laser-worked to form the seconds track, and a water lily laser-cut in titanium and finished in miniature painting as the seconds hand • Inspired by the novel «L’Ecume des Jours» written by French author Boris Vian • Created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans and MD’ART

BRACELET • Nubuck leather strap in dark blue • Alternatively, Milanese mesh bracelet in stainless steel

RETAIL PRICE (before taxes) • 26’800 CHF • 28’800 EUR • 37’700 USD

Thursday, September 17, 2026

The Pure Steel Green

From Pinion -

Courtesy of Pinion

Gotta' admit, I'm crushing on this one a bit ; )

Courtesy of Pinion

This is part of Pinion's Pure collection. 38 mm of British designed and assembled, Swiss powered time-machine goodness.

This is the stainless steel version. I am sharing it in the hopes that those of you out there who like it will focus on it instead of the bronze version which your's truly is in the midst of serious negotiations with his piggy bank to free up funds ; )

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

Dimensions

Diameter
38mm (excluding crown)

Length (lug to lug)
44mm

Strap
20mm

Depth
11mm (including glass)

Weight
52g (60g with leather strap)

Movement

Sellita SW261-1 M
Manual winding
Gilt finish, striping, blued screws
28’800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
23 Jewels
45 hours (typical) power reserve

No date
The date mechanism and crown position have been removed by the manufacturer.

Accuracy
Regulated in-house to 3-positions (dial-up, dial-down, crown-down)
+/- 5 seconds to +/- 15 seconds per day accuracy

Case

Water resistance
100 metres / 10 ATM

Material
CuSn8 broze alloy, brushed finish

Case back
Sapphire glass exhibition back, screen-printed motif (inside)
Stainless steel, brushed and polished finishes

Crown
Push-down with double o-ring fitting

Glass
High-domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating (inside only)

Details

Dial
Painted colour dial, applied indexes, inset sub seconds with engine turned effect

Hands
Brass hands, brushed finish in bronze colour plating

Luminance
Super Lumi-Nova X1 (index, hour and minute hands)






Des Bulles

“Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!” - Dom Pérignon

A Sartory Billard / Tatsuya Todo / Martin Pulli cocktail de la maison -


Courtesy of Sartory Billard

“I only drink Champagne on two occasions, when I am in love and when I am not.” - Coco Chanel

This latest iteration of the SB-04 calls again on the artistic wizardry of Tatsuya Todo's wizardry with all things lacquer. The name - Des Bulles is a nod and a wink to champagne, and not in a Don Ho Tiny Bubbles sort of way ; )


Courtesy of Sartory Billard

"I drink Champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty." - Lily Bollinger


Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The dial was created by Japanese lacquer artist Tatsuya Todo, also known as Kosetsu. Born in 1954 in Japan’s Ishikawa Prefecture, he has devoted his career to Yamanaka lacquerware and was officially recognised as a traditional craftsman in 1995.

Although deeply rooted in traditional Japanese craftsmanship, Todo’s work is not confined to reproducing inherited forms. He explores how historic techniques and natural materials can take on a more personal and contemporary expression, an approach that made him particularly suited to interpreting Des Bulles.

Using the Japanese art of raden, Todo individually selected each circular fragment of mother-of-pearl for its size, colour and natural reflections before cutting and positioning it by hand within the black lacquer. Every piece had to contribute to the perspective of the whole, as well as respond beautifully to the changing light.

The surface was then refined and polished through successive stages until the shell appeared embedded within the lacquer. Because every fragment is naturally different and every arrangement is composed by hand, each dial develops its own colours, contrasts and rhythm. No two can ever be identical.

Each Des Bulles dial is therefore an individual interpretation of Armand’s original vision, shaped by Todo’s eye, experience and sensitivity to the material.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

“In victory, you deserve Champagne; in defeat, you need it.” - Napoleon Bonaparte

This wonderful time machine is limited to 26 pieces and only available through collector and, how does one say it - purveyor of rare and wonderful watches, Martin Pulli.

Limited to 26 pieces total, it is priced at $11,700 US.

“I am on a 24-hour Champagne diet.” - Drake

Here are the pertinents, straight from Sartory Billard HQ -

SB04-E Des Bulles
Reference: SB04E1DB

Case: Stainless steel, 39.5 mm, alternating polished and brushed finishes
Thickness: 10.2 mm
Lug-to-lug: 44 mm

Dial: Black lacquer and mother-of-pearl raden dial

Movement: Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101A automatic movement, 68-hour power reserve

Water resistance: 100 metres

Bracelet Options:
Sartory-Billard navy blue rubber strap. Logo pin buckle.
Sartory-Billard stainless-steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links, equipped with quick-release pins for easy strap changes. ½ link for fine adjustment. 3-fold clasp.

Price: €9,950 / USD $11,700

Limited edition of 26 numbered pieces.

Available exclusively through Martin Pulli Fine Jewelry and Watches
 and Watches.

So that's the scoop, run, don't walk to get your hands on this wrist-bound bijoux!

Oh, and fyi -

"Drake and me are still beefing ; )" - Henki