Seven Days with the Islander Astoria Automatic

Begins now - 

Some More News from Wind Vintage x True North

And just prior to the release of the Wind Vintage x True North Dreamsicle, the Winds (Eric and Christine) were in Vatican City where they had the opportunity to present his Holiness, Pope Leo with a personalized Dreamsicle of his own!

Courtesy of Wind Vintage

Per Eric Wind's socials -

"Last week, Christine and I had the honor of gifting His Holiness Pope Leo XIV with the new Wind Vintage x True North Watch Company Vintage Rally Timer IV (the “Dreamsicle”) at the Vatican. I told the Pope, “Holy Father, a birthday gift from Palm Beach” and presented him with the watch. He took the watch in his hand, studied it, smiled, and said, 'Thank you.' "

Courtesy of Wind Vintage x True North

And for those of getting ready to place your orders on Friday, October 2nd, I encourage you move "sharpish" as this one is going to move fast.

The Vintage Rally Timer IV (VRT IV) Dreamsicle

From Wind Vintage x True North -

Courtesy of Wind Vintage & True North

This is the 4th edition of the Wind Vintage & True North collaboration - also sometimes known as the "Windtona". 

Courtesy of Wind Vintage & True North

This one has been dubbed the Dreamsicle. Per Wind Vintage:

Following the success of its previous three collaborations, Wind Vintage has teamed up with True North again for a new chronograph.

Offered in a new colorway with a pale orange dial, the Wind Vintage x True North Watch Company Vintage Rally Timer IV “Dreamsicle” is a tribute to Eric Wind his love for pale orange and his daughters’ love for pastel colors. It is a watch that offers the feel of a vintage watch with a totally unique dial and bezel color scheme. The Dreamsicle is limited to 1,986 pieces in honor of vintage expert Eric Wind’s birth year and turning 40 this year. The watch comes in a special edition box with orange printing.

The Vintage Rally Timer IV (VRT IV) Dreamsicle is priced at $490 US.

Here are the pertinents -

37mm case diameter, 44mm lug-to-lug case length, 13.8mm case thickness, 20mm lug width, domed sapphire-coated mineral crystal and sapphire-coated bezel, 50-meter water resistance, 316L stainless steel case and bracelet, and Seiko (SII) VK63 Mechaquartz Watch Movement. The SII (Seiko Instruments) caliber VK63 is part of the hybrid mechanical quartz movement line. It is a chronograph movement that uses quartz technology for the main functions of the watch and a mechanical module for operating the chronograph.

The 1941 Quadrivium Tantalum

From Grönefeld -

Courtesy of Grönefeld

This is the latest from the Grönefeld brothers Tim and Bart. This is the 1941Quadrivium in tantalum.

Quadrivium (Quad) has four complications in this one watch. Per Grönefeld:

The 1941 Quadrivium unites four of the brand’s most admired complications within a single, extraordinary watch. Developed entirely from the ground up, it features a 7.5-seconds remontoire, a one-minute flying tourbillon, central jumping seconds, and a power reserve indicator, all driven by a movement equipped with serially connected concentric twin barrels.

Courtesy of Grönefeld

This new model is available in two different versions - tantalum (above) and platinum.

Both are limited to 28 pieces.

Should you have the means and the inclination, here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

Movement

Calibre G-09

Mechanical hand-wound movement; tourbillon, remontoire, dead seconds and power reserve indicator

Movement

Diameter 32.0 mm
Thickness: 6.15 mm

Number of components

473 parts in the whole movement

Number of jewels

49 jewels, partially set in gold chatons

Power reserve

50 hours
A satellite-wheel mechanism provides a precise indication of the remaining power reserve

Barrels

Two coaxially arranged barrels connected in series toprovide a continuous and balanced energy supply

Tourbillon

One minute flying tourbillon cage made in stainless steel Durnico 

Balance wheel

Titatium free sprung variable inertia balance wheel (10.0 mm diameter)

Frequency

21.600 vibrations/hour

Balance spring

Phillips terminal overcoil curve; Geneva-style stud

Escapement

Swiss lever escapement

Main Plate

Spotted and snailed ruthenium plated brass

Bridges

Hand bevelled; stainless steel. Micro-blasted centre; circular grain on the top; relief engraved in the micro blasted surface

Dead seconds

A dedicated dead-seconds mechanism, positioned above the conventional going train, allows the escapement to operate at its natural frequency while regulating the seconds-hand to advance in precise one-second intervals

Winding-setting

Conventional winding and setting mechanism; hacking seconds at the 60 seconds position

Case and Dial

Case

1941 Design. Round, three-piece case featuring a domed sapphire crystal on the front, with anti-glare treatment on both sides. The flat sapphire crystal on the case back is also treated with anti-glare coating on both sides. The case is engraved with the serial number and secured by eight security screws

Number of components

Case: 24 parts
Dial/hands: 27 parts

Case dimensions

Diameter: 40.0 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm

Water resistance

3 atmospheres - 30 meters - 100 feet

Crown

Engraved with “G” logo

Dial

Base dial in brass, applied stainless steel segments and white gold hour markers. Choice of 5 colors

Hands

Hours and minutes, large counter poised seconds,power-reserve. All hands are steel and heat blued

Indications

Small hours and minutes at 2 o’clock
Extra long jumping seconds hand at the center
Power reserve indicator at 10 o'clock
Visible flying tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock
Visible governor of the remontoire mechanism at 9 o'clock

Strap

Hand-sewn leather, 20mm-18mm

Buckle

Tantalum or Platinum pin buckle, engraved with Grönefeld logo. 18mm

Weight

Tantalum approximately 108 grams, including strap and buckle
Platinum approximately 120 grams, including strap and buckle

‍

Reintroducing...E.F. Bowman

Some news from Lancaster PA. RGM (Roland Murphy) have introduced, or possibly reintroduced E.F. Bowman watches.

Courtesy of E.F. Bowman

For those of you (like me) unaware, E.F.Bowman was Ezra F. Bowman. Born in Lancaster, Pennsylvania he apprenticed with a Swiss watchmaker, cofounded an ultimately unsuccessful watch company - Adams & Perry Watch Co. He later opened a jewelry store, and even a watchmaking school.

While it would be easy to assume that this was just the revival of a name, it is, in fact, based upon the RGM 501.

Obviously more to come ; )

Courtesy of E.F. Bowman

RGM is the new steward of the E.F. Bowman legacy, and this new offering shows all the quality and care you would expect from the Mt. Joy PA based brand.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the
source - RGM Model 501-EFB

Constructed using timeless techniques that were used in fine mechanical watches of the past, like the original American-made E. F. Bowman pocket watches of the late 1800s.

The 1920s Patek Philippe pocket watch pictured below, which Patek Philippe originally made for Ezra F. Bowman & Sons, inspired the unique dial and hands of the new Model 501-EFB wristwatch.

Dial: White Grand Feu fired enamel

Hands: Blued steel

Movement Caliber: RGM-finished Swiss-made ASE 200 micro-rotor automatic, 33 jewels, 21,600 vph. Rhodium radial finish - perlage, with RGM made solid gold plaque on the winding rotor. 86-hour power reserve.

Functions: Hour / Minute / Second /

Case: 316L Stainless Steel, 39 mm x 11.3 mm at the top of the crystal. Box-style Sapphire crystal front and flat back crystal, 20mm lug width, and water-resistant to 5-ATM. Case length from lug end to lug end: 48mm. Gold or Platinum can be special ordered.

Weight: 2.5 oz. in stainless steel

Priced at $16,950

Promenade L'Écume des Jours

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek

This is the latest from Czapek, the Promenade L'Écume des Jours. The inspiration for this piece is a novel by French non vivant Boris Vian, L'Écume des jours. A rather interesting choice as the novel tells the tale of love and loss (fair enough) but caps off with his pet mouse killing itself... 

But then again, Monsieur Vian was a man of passions. A man who (if Wikipedia is to be believed) shouted these bon mots: "These guys are supposed to be American? My ass!" before keeling over from a heart attack at the screening of a film version of his 1946 roman noir (dark noir crime fiction) novel I Shall Spit on Your Graves (J'irai cracher sur vos tombes).  He was also an active figure in jazz among other artistic pursuits, an inspirational and supportive figure to Serge Gainsbourg, and as if all that wasn't enough, he was a formally trained metallurgist.

Courtesy of Czapek

But back to the matter at hand, the Promenade L'Écume des Jours. 

Per Czapek:

Courtesy of Czapek

PROMENADE 

L’Écume des jours
38 mm stainless steel case, dial layered in blue enamel, mother-of pearl and jade, with a laser-cut titanium water lily seconds in miniature painting, in-house Calibre SXH5.1 with micro-rotor. Limited edition of 18 pieces.

FUNCTIONS • Hours, minutes, small seconds at 4:30

MOVEMENT • Caliber SXH5.1 : Czapek's in house selfwinding mechanical movement with small seconds • Diameter: 30 mm – 13 lines ¼ • Height: 4.2 mm • Number of parts: 127 • Jewels: 26 • Swiss lever escapement, variable-inertia balance fitted with four gold inertia-blocks • Frequency: 4 Hz – 28800 VpH • Power winding system: micro-rotor with a recycled 950 platinum mass • Power-reserve: 60 hours on a single barrel • Barrel torque: 8 Nmm

FINISH • Open ratchets, sandblasted black b

CASE • 38mm stainless steel case • Height : 10.8 mm • Lug to lug (12h to 6h) : 42 mm • Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment • Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side • Water resistance: 50 mm

DIAL • A layered dial built on a Goutte d’Eau enamel base, with a mother-of-pearl ring bearing hand-painted piano-key touches, a jade leaf laser-worked to form the seconds track, and a water lily laser-cut in titanium and finished in miniature painting as the seconds hand • Inspired by the novel «L’Ecume des Jours» written by French author Boris Vian • Created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans and MD’ART

BRACELET • Nubuck leather strap in dark blue • Alternatively, Milanese mesh bracelet in stainless steel

RETAIL PRICE (before taxes) • 26’800 CHF • 28’800 EUR • 37’700 USD

The Pure Steel Green

From Pinion -

Courtesy of Pinion

Gotta' admit, I'm crushing on this one a bit ; )

Courtesy of Pinion

This is part of Pinion's Pure collection. 38 mm of British designed and assembled, Swiss powered time-machine goodness.

This is the stainless steel version. I am sharing it in the hopes that those of you out there who like it will focus on it instead of the bronze version which your's truly is in the midst of serious negotiations with his piggy bank to free up funds ; )

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

Dimensions

Diameter
38mm (excluding crown)

Length (lug to lug)
44mm

Strap
20mm

Depth
11mm (including glass)

Weight
52g (60g with leather strap)

Movement

Sellita SW261-1 M
Manual winding
Gilt finish, striping, blued screws
28’800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
23 Jewels
45 hours (typical) power reserve

No date
The date mechanism and crown position have been removed by the manufacturer.

Accuracy
Regulated in-house to 3-positions (dial-up, dial-down, crown-down)
+/- 5 seconds to +/- 15 seconds per day accuracy

Case

Water resistance
100 metres / 10 ATM

Material
CuSn8 broze alloy, brushed finish

Case back
Sapphire glass exhibition back, screen-printed motif (inside)
Stainless steel, brushed and polished finishes

Crown
Push-down with double o-ring fitting

Glass
High-domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating (inside only)

Details

Dial
Painted colour dial, applied indexes, inset sub seconds with engine turned effect

Hands
Brass hands, brushed finish in bronze colour plating

Luminance
Super Lumi-Nova X1 (index, hour and minute hands)

Des Bulles

“Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!” - Dom Pérignon

A Sartory Billard / Tatsuya Todo / Martin Pulli cocktail de la maison -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

“I only drink Champagne on two occasions, when I am in love and when I am not.” - Coco Chanel

This latest iteration of the SB-04 calls again on the artistic wizardry of Tatsuya Todo's wizardry with all things lacquer. The name - Des Bulles is a nod and a wink to champagne, and not in a Don Ho Tiny Bubbles sort of way ; )

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

"I drink Champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty." - Lily Bollinger

Per Sartory Billard -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The dial was created by Japanese lacquer artist Tatsuya Todo, also known as Kosetsu. Born in 1954 in Japan’s Ishikawa Prefecture, he has devoted his career to Yamanaka lacquerware and was officially recognised as a traditional craftsman in 1995.

Although deeply rooted in traditional Japanese craftsmanship, Todo’s work is not confined to reproducing inherited forms. He explores how historic techniques and natural materials can take on a more personal and contemporary expression, an approach that made him particularly suited to interpreting Des Bulles.

Using the Japanese art of raden, Todo individually selected each circular fragment of mother-of-pearl for its size, colour and natural reflections before cutting and positioning it by hand within the black lacquer. Every piece had to contribute to the perspective of the whole, as well as respond beautifully to the changing light.

The surface was then refined and polished through successive stages until the shell appeared embedded within the lacquer. Because every fragment is naturally different and every arrangement is composed by hand, each dial develops its own colours, contrasts and rhythm. No two can ever be identical.

Each Des Bulles dial is therefore an individual interpretation of Armand’s original vision, shaped by Todo’s eye, experience and sensitivity to the material.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

“In victory, you deserve Champagne; in defeat, you need it.” - Napoleon Bonaparte

This wonderful time machine is limited to 26 pieces and only available through collector and, how does one say it - purveyor of rare and wonderful watches, Martin Pulli.

Limited to 26 pieces total, it is priced at $11,700 US.

“I am on a 24-hour Champagne diet.” - Drake

Here are the pertinents, straight from Sartory Billard HQ -

SB04-E Des Bulles
Reference: SB04E1DB

Case: Stainless steel, 39.5 mm, alternating polished and brushed finishes
Thickness: 10.2 mm
Lug-to-lug: 44 mm

Dial: Black lacquer and mother-of-pearl raden dial

Movement: Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101A automatic movement, 68-hour power reserve

Water resistance: 100 metres

Bracelet Options:
Sartory-Billard navy blue rubber strap. Logo pin buckle.
Sartory-Billard stainless-steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links, equipped with quick-release pins for easy strap changes. ½ link for fine adjustment. 3-fold clasp.

Price: €9,950 / USD $11,700

Limited edition of 26 numbered pieces.

Available exclusively through Martin Pulli Fine Jewelry and Watches and Watches.

So that's the scoop, run, don't walk to get your hands on this wrist-bound bijoux!

Oh, and fyi -

"Drake and me are still beefing ; )" - Henki

When the Whispers Refuse to Quiet...

I have driven through Grenchen more than a few times in transit back and forth to Biel/Bienne or Basel. And, I have gotten off the train in Grenchen exactly twice. Once to tour a mostly abandoned Eterna factory back in 2014 or so. The other time to visit the Fortis HQ.

Perhaps the biggest dog still lounging around Grenchen is Breitling. The HQ building is very, very visible from the train. And if you had any doubts as to how interwoven Breitling is to the local landscape, there was a fighter plane mounted in a roundabout until fairly recently -

Grenchen has seen some interesting brands come and go. While not a huge city, it is big enough to boast two railway stations. This was a constant frustration for yours truly, as it was often reminiscent of the old Maine expression-

"Ya cahn't get theah from heah..."

But back to the matter at hand. The whispers in Watch Town about Breitling have grown to open conversations. Breitling's actual performance can't really be ascertained for a number of reasons - it's privately held, and the sales volumes of standard retailers vs Breitling boutiques vs grey market will not necessarily align. Moreover, it is important to understand that the success of a particular Breitling retailer or boutique is more likely down to the quality and professionalism of the team operating them than just the product. A watch can't stand up and tell a customer about itself, no matter how much magic PR pixie dust we sprinkle on it. That is not a knock on Breitling's products - I personally am on the hunt for a Montbrillant Eclipse...

Breitling is perhaps in a weird place for reasons that existed even before Kern partially acquired it from the Schneider family in 2017. It was popular, but the price perception for new product vs pre-owned has always, at least in my 23 years in the game, been skewed. That goes all the way back in my origin story working at Tourneau back in 2002. The San Francisco store where I worked had gotten the exclusive San Francisco rights for Breitling and inevitably the pre-curser to tech bros (finance guys) would come in with their bonus wanting to buy something snazzy. I remember one time in particular, we had just gotten in - you guessed it, a Montbrilant Eclipse! A well-heeled finance guy came in, tried it on and wanted it. When he asked how much, I didn't blink. I quoted him the full retail price. And this is where negotiation met desire. At first he looked as if I had somehow betrayed a sacred trust. Tourneau San Francisco, back then, was referred to by some in the know as: "Deep South". Meaning that some of the assistant managers never met a discount they didn't like. But my point is that Breitling, even then, did not have the most solid identity in terms of "what it's worth". Needless to say, however, I made the sale without budging on the price. And that is where I come back to my earlier point - the hard work and professionalism of the retailer will validate the value of a purchase.

But with the age of Kern came a perceptible ratcheting of prices along with A LOT of product (both in terms of SKUs and the number of said SKUs being produced), and a communication program based more upon celebrity partners than what was going into the watches themselves. And now with the addition of Gallet watches into Breitling boutiques, the message gets a little more convoluted, with some folks referring to Gallet as "Breitling light". 

And finally, we get to the wooly mammoth in the room - the amount of debt that will need to be refinanced. For a deeper dive into the heroes and zeroes, I refer you to Rob Corder's piece in Watch Pro -

https://www.watchpro.com/breitlings-private-equity-owner-faces-e6-billion-debt-refinancing-deadline/

In fairness, 2028 is still on the horizon, but the thing about tomorrow is that it always comes. The trick is to be ready for it ; )

The Astoria

From Islander Watches -

Courtesy of Islander Watches

This one's a bit special. A good looking tonneau 
case, with a particularly nicely executed pink dial. 

Courtesy of Islander Watches

The movement is Miyota's 90S5 Hi-Beat Automatic which is self-winding, (can be hand wound) with hacking seconds.

Courtesy of Islander Watches

The solid case back displays a likeness of Steinway Manor, located in... Astoria ; )

Priced at $359, this is a very affordable, very good looking watch. Islander, you've got my attention!

Here are the pertinents, straight from Islander -

Technical Specs

Brand: Islander

SKU: ISL-369

Movement: Miyota 90S5 Hi-Beat Automatic (self-winding, hand wind, hacks)

Case: Stainless Steel

Case Diameter: 34mm

Case Height: 9.2mm

Case Lug to Lug: Stainless steel, 34mm x 37mm, 9.2mm thick, 44.2mm lug to lug

Case Back: Solid etched caseback held with screws

Crystal: Sapphire

Band: Leather backed fabric, quick release, 18mm

Band Width: 18mm

Water Resistance: 50 meters

Weight: 53 grams

Warranty: 1 year

"When I want your opinion I'll give it to you"

We live in REALLY goofy times. Watch Town and the members of the Fourth and Fifth Estates who "cover" it have a rather curious relationship. For those desirous of a more close relationship, the more salubrious path appears to be deference, oftentimes bordering on the sycophantic.

Now for my sins, I have been declared excommunicado by Richemont, LVMH, and a liquorice assortment of brands that seem to spend more time thinking about me than I do about them. And some of these brands are downright antipathetic. Almost as if I'd run over their dog and they won't forget it. 

With about 6,000 visitors a day, I accept that Henki Time is not a big fish. And that's okay. But I also have to wonder what loose screw is rattling around the collective PR/Marketing braintrusts in some of these brands that they feel that all reviews, stories, and coverage must be glowing? And no, I am not feeling personally persecuted as I am not alone in this semi-isolation. Astrid Wendlandt (Miss Tweed), Gregory Pons (Business Montres) and others more celebrated than yours truly never seem to get invited to the ball (or more specifically the rather lavish press junkets, etc.,.), or even Watches and Wonders in some cases...

So what's brought all this up? I'm glad you asked! One notable thing happened recently that underscores the problematic rift that exists between some brands and the people who would like to cover them. 

Miss Tweed has been on the outs with Richemont for some time. Curious to relate? She owns stock in Richemont (albeit 1 share) and was recently denied admission to the shareholders meeting. Now let's think about this for a minute, Richemont has already cut her out of any possibility of trying to cover them on a first hand basis by denying her admittance to Watches and Wonders (which is pretty douchey in and of itself). But this latest move shows a certain level of pettiness that is hard to fathom. Now this is just little me, but if I had the resources that Richemont does, I would actually reach out to this person, hear them out, maybe have an actual conversation? The worst that could happen is that the journalist will feel respected for taking the time to ask questions (albeit some of them uncomfortable) and it might just lead to a burgeoning detente. 

But then again, what the hell do I know?