SB04-E Nuances

This is the latest from Armand & Sartory Billard -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

If I have read and understood the press release correctly, the SB04-E Nuances is reimagining the SB04 in Kodachrome color!

Available in blue, red, and green it is priced at EUR 3,600 excl. VAT on rubberEUR 3,800 excl. VAT on metal bracelet.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

SB04-E Nuances
Reference:
SB04_ENUANBL
Case: Stainless steel, 39.5 mm, alternating polished and brushed finishes
Thickness: 10.2 mm
Lug-to-lug: 44 mm
Dial: Concave sunray dial with a fumé gradient, applied numerals and a polished chapter ring
Movement: Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101A automatic movement, 68-hour power reserve
Water resistance: 100 metres
Bracelet Options:
Matching Sartory-Billard rubber strap. Logo pin buckle.
Sartory-Billard stainless-steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links, equipped with quick-release pins for easy strap changes. ½ link for fine adjustment. 3-fold clasp.
Price:
EUR 3,600 excl. VAT on rubber
EUR 3,800 excl. VAT on metal bracelet

First deliveries: October 2026

The BR-03 GMT Green Lum

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest from Bell & Ross, the BR-03 GMT Green Lum.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Based on the evergreen BR-03, a Bell & Ross staple (see what I did there?). 

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This wrist-rocket is limited to 500 pieces, so if it is in your wheelhouse, I recommend you act sharpish ; )

Priced at an even $5,000 US. Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Movement : Calibre BR-CAL.303. Automatic Mechanical Movement. 54-hour power reserve.

Functions : Hours, minutes, central seconds, second 24-hour time zone and date. Quick setting of the GMT hand, independently of the hour hand.

Case : 42 mm wide. 11.3 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel. Bi-directional rotating bezel with 24-hour scale, with polished black ceramic ring and Super-LumiNova® C3 marking (green glow).

Dial : Green with a vertical black gradient. Transfer numerals and indices, coated in Super-LumiNova® C3 (green glow). Black gloss hour and minute hands and 24-hour hand, coated in Super-LumiNova® C3 (green glow). Black second hand with aeroplane-shaped tip, coated in Super-LumiNova® C3 (green glow).

Crystal : Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance : 100 metres.

Strap : Black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.

The RESTA

from MONOGRIIS -

Courtesy of MONOGRIIS

I have lived in a lot of places. Born and raised in Ohio, university in Oregon, grad school in the England, work stints in Portugal, Finland, Scotland, and Canada. But in truth? It was probably the nearly three years I lived and worked in Japan that shaped me the most.

I was not really into watches at that time. I had a Tag Heuer (quartz) that got semi-replaced by a Swatch until it pooped out and I traded it for a Rado Red Horse at a pawn shop in Tachikawa. What I find curious, looking back, is that getting a Japanese watch never even ocurred to me. 

Needless to say, I have developed a real appreciation for Japanese watches. And this brings us back to the matter at hand - the RESTA!

Courtesy of MONOGRIIS

MONOGRIIS is based in Osaka, a place I never got to visit but always wanted to. Sometimes referred to as the "kitchen" of Japan, it has a completely different vibe from Tokyo. And in many ways, the RESTA has a different vibe from other Japanese watches. 

It is available in three versions -

Courtesy of MONOGRIIS

An Ivory dialed version with blue hands.

Courtesy of MONOGRIIS

A black dialed version with gold hands, numbers & indices.

Courtesy of MONOGRIIS

And my personal favorite, an ivory dial with gold hands and indices.

And the price is truly remarkable at $291 US!

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

【Specifications】 Movement: Automatic winding + manual winding (MIYOTA Cal.8N40) Water resistance: 5ATM (5 ATM water resistant) Domed sapphire glass Small second Screw-back See-through back Saffiano leather strap Country of manufacture: Japan (MADE IN JAPAN)

【Size】 Case diameter: approx. 36mm Lug to lug: approx. 45mm Case thickness: approx.10.5mm (approx.13.9mm including domed crystal) Lug width: 18mm Wrist circumference: approx. 16.5-21.0cm Weight: approx. 130g

【Material】 Case: Stainless steel 316L Crystal: Domed sapphire glass Strap: Saffiano leather

The Chilton

From Haven -

Courtesy of Haven

This is (I believe, anyway) the latest iteration of the Chilton from the still semi-nascent Indiana brand.

The dial is a wonderful take on what I'll call functional fun. Very legible, very easy to understand - and yet that little bit of whimsey with the 12 o'clock register.

And what I totally love? in the bottom dial segment where you might normally find "made in..." it says simply:

Midwest.

And most importantly in these uncertain financial times? It is priced very, very reasonably at $1,499 US.

Here are the pertinents:

Diameter: 37.5mm
Thickness: 13.1mm
Lug-to-lug: 47mm
Lug width: 18mm
Case Material: 316L Steel case, titanium caseback
Water Resistance: 5ATM
Bracelet: Lemon top-grain premium leather bracelet
Caliber: Sellita SW510 M b
Power Reserve: rated for 50 hours, but most of ours get to 60.
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 28,800
Jewels: 23

The Edmond Auto 3D

From Mathey-Tissot

Courtesy of Mathey-Tissot

Mathey-Tissot is really not as known here in the lower 48 as it should be. I am making it my mission to change that ; )

The Edmond Auto 3D is, well, green! And that hits a visceral nerve for me.

Courtesy of Mathey-Tissot

The case is of stainless steel with a rose gold finish and measures 42 mm in diameter. The movement is self-winding (automatic).

Here are the pertinents -

• Gender: Men
• Movement Type: Automatic
• Movement Name: Landeron 24
• Movement Function: -Date-
• Case Diameter: 42 mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel 316L
• Case Color: Rose Gold plated
• Glass: Dome Antireflex Sapphire Coated
• Backplate: Sapphire Coated
• Crown: Push / Pull
• Water Resistance: 5 ATM
• Bezel Type: Fixed
• Bezel Colour: Rose Gold plated
• Thickness: 13 mm
• Dial Colour: Green
• Markers: Index and Arabic numbers
• Lug to lug: 20 mm
• Bracelet Material: Genuine Leather
• Bracelet Colour: Green 

 

The Rowing Blazers x Wind Vintage x Seiko 5 Sports Rally Divers

Are coming!

Courtesy of Wind Vintage

This is the latest collaboration between Seiko, Rowing Blazers and vintage savant (& fellow Vulcain Cricket authority) Eric Wind of Wind Vintage.

Courtesy of Wind Vintage

The Seiko / Rowing Blazers / Wind collaborations remind us once again that you can flex with a watch, but it's even better if your flex shares the fun!

Courtesy of Wind Vintage

The two models are defined not just by dial colors, but by size. The green dial version (above) measures 38 mm in diameter.

The blue dialed version (below) comes in a bit larger at 42 mm. 

Courtesy of Wind Vintage

This latest collaboration officially drops next Thursday. Here are the pertinents:

The two Rowing Blazers x Wind Vintage x Seiko 5 Sports models from this collection are SRPM21 (green dial with a 38mm diameter and an additional blue nylon strap) and SRPM19 (Blue dial with a 42mm diameter and an additional green strap). Additional details for the watches include: the automatic caliber 4R36 with 24 jewels operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour with approximately 41 hours of power reserve, luminous hands and markers in a warmer vintage color, 20mm lug width, uni-directional bezel, stainless-steel cases and bracelets, and day and date calendars with days that can be changed between English and Spanish. The Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports capsule launches Thursday, July 9, 2026, at 11am ET on the Rowing Blazers and Seiko USA websites, as well as a small selection available for sale at the Rowing Blazers flagship at 262 Elizabeth St in New York City. The watches retail for $495 each.

Merci France!

Merci, Sartory Billard!

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Our American Experiment has certainly not been a straight line.  But leave it to three guys from three different countries to offer something tasteful, elegant, and wonderful that absolutely trumps anything else I've seen to commemorate the US's 250th birthday.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

You will, of course, be immediately drawn to the dial - and why wouldn't you?

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Sartory Billard summarizes this amazing collaboration thusly -

To celebrate the 250th anniversary of American independence, Armand Billard brought together Ron Elkins in the United States, Chris Alexander / The Dial Artist in Scotland, and his own workshop in France to create this limited edition watch inspired by two enduring American symbols: the Stars and Stripes and the Statue of Liberty.

Ron CNC-engraved American copper with a flowing Stars and Stripes pattern.
Chris then hand-patinated each cabochon, drawing inspiration from the Statue of Liberty's iconic blue-green copper while preserving every detail of the engraving.

Finally, each watch is assembled by Armand in France, bringing together three craftsmen whose countries have been linked since the birth of the United States.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Like every SB10, the cabochon is fully exposed and designed to be touched. Over time, repeated touch and everyday wear gradually wear the protective lacquer, allowing the American copper beneath to continue its natural evolution.

Every watch will age differently, making each one a unique reflection of the person wearing it.
The anniversary lasts a day. The watch keeps telling its story for years.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Here are the pertinents -

SB10 250th Anniversary
Reference: 

SB101250A
Case: 

Stainless steel, 39.5 mm, alternating polished and brushed surfaces
Thickness: 

11,5 mm
Lug to lug: 

44 mm
Cabochon: 

CNC-engraved American copper, individually patinated and sealed with a clear lacquer
Movement: 

Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101A automatic movement, 55-hour power reserve coupled with a patented jumping hour movement
Water Resistance: 

80 meters
Bracelet:
Supplied with three Sartory-Billard rubber straps in navy blue, red and white. Logo pin buckle.
Price:
5200€ excl VAT

Available to order exclusively from July 4th to July 11th, 2026.
First deliveries: End of 2026

The Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Eddy Merckx

From Breitling -

Courtesy of Breitling

I found out about this limited edition via Axel Merckx's Instagram feed - merci Axel!

Courtesy of Breitling

Per Breitling:

Active at the very peak of cycling from the late 1960s through the mid-1970s, Eddy Merckx is widely regarded as the greatest road cyclist of all time. With 11 Grand Tour titles, 19 Monument victories, and 525 total wins, he excelled across every discipline and terrain the sport had to offer. His legacy is defined by achievements that remain unmatched to this day. To honor the legendary cyclist, Breitling created the Top Time B01 Eddy Merckx edition. This Top Time features a yellow dial bearing Eddy Merckx's signature above the 6 o’clock index, while his name appears on the tachymeter scale. Created in the 1960s as Breitling’s “unconventional chronograph,” the Top Time was made for speed, style, and self-expression. It features signature details, including squircle subdials, mushroom pushers, trim proportions, and a balanced layout that stay true to its origins. Limited to 525 pieces, this special edition pays tribute to Merckx’s remarkable 525 victories.

Priced at $8,050.

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Caliber:
Breitling 01 (Manufacture)
Movement:
Self-winding mechanical
Power reserve:
Approx. 70 hrs
Chronograph:
1/4 second, 30 minutes
Vibration:
28,800 v.p.h
Jewel:
34 jewels

CASE
Case material:
Stainless steel
Water resistance:
10 bars (100 m/330 ft)
Crystal:
Sapphire

DIMENSIONS
Diameter:
41 mm
Thickness:
13.3 mm
Lug width (in-between lug):
20 mm

The Early Bird Gets...

A 24 hour watch!

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

Point of full disclosure - I am responsible for Ollech & Wajs (OW Zurich) in North America. So this will be just the facts on this. But before I go into watch journalist (if ever an oxymoron was coined) mode, I am going a wee-bit enthusiast. From the time I started working with Charles and OW, I have begged, pleaded, even tried to bribe him to make an updated version of the Early Bird. We previewed it at Time to Watches in Geneva, and we are now ready to release it. End of behind the scenes fan-boy update ; )

This is the Early Bird -

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

- Ollech & Wajs EB - 24
- Bespoke Swiss made Soprod P125 24-hour, Automatic
- 300 m / 30ATM
- Dimensions 39.5 mm × 12.5 mm
- Lug width 20mm
- Relaunches 19:56 (CET) 30th June

Here is the release as it went out to the OW Collector's Club:

In 1965 Ollech & Wajs launched the eponymously named ‘Early Bird’, 24-hour dual-time-zone watch, which paid tribute to a satellite of the same name.

The Intelsat I, or ‘Early Bird’ as it is better known, was the world’s first geosynchronous communications satellite, and handled all commercial telecommunications transmissions between Europe and North America between 1965 and 1969. This included the live transoceanic TV coverage of the Gemini 6 splashdown; footage of the Apollo 11 moon landing; and the first ever performance of ‘All You Need Is Love’ by The Beatles, live to a global audience of 700 million people. Early Bird changed humanity’s relationship with distance. It made the Atlantic feel smaller by enabling near-instantaneous communications between continents. Before Early Bird, the world was connected by cables. After Early Bird, it was connected through space. It marked the moment the world became truly connected and became one of the defining technological milestones of the twentieth century. The Early Bird satellite was decommissioned in 1969, but it remains in silent in orbit today, more than half a century after its launch.

Albert Wajs wanted to pay tribute to this landmark moment of modern engineering by creating a watch in its honour. The 24-hour ‘military-time’ dial reflects the time taken for the satellite to complete one orbit of the Earth. The blue-and-red metallic bezel echoed the colours of the satellite itself. 

However, unlike its namesake, the Ollech & Wajs Early Bird was not made for outer space. It was created specifically for military personnel, particularly pilots and radio operators, for whom a 24-hour ‘military-time’ dial would be invaluable. Most of the original Early Birds were ordered direct from Zurich via adverts in black-and-white newspapers like the Army Times. The new owners were pleasantly surprised when the watch arrived to see that it had a blue-and-red bezel, not grey tone as the ads suggested. Of all the watches that carried the OW monogram, the Early Bird is said to be Albert Wajs’s personal favourite. Despite being one of our best-known watches, it is also one of the rarest - no more than 500 Early Birds were made. Though 24-hour time is widely used all over the world today, 24-hour mechanical Swiss watches are seldom seen. The reimagined ‘Early Bird’ EB-24 has an automatic, 24-hour movement, meaning unlike a conventional watch, the hour hand only completes a single revolution in a full day. This feature allows the wearer to view all 24 hours of the day at a glance while simultaneously tracking a second time zone, an indispensable feature for pilots, international travellers and professionals communicating across continents. Last year marked the 60th anniversary of both the Early Bird watch and the launch of the satellite that inspired it. Given the special place the original watch holds in Albert Wajs's heart, we delayed its reintroduction until 2026, the platinum anniversary year of Ollech & Wajs itself. The EB-24 will be priced at 1,956 CHF, also a nod to our founding year The first 56 watches will have numbered crowns, numbers allocated in order of purchase. It will be available to order worldwide from 19:56 (CET) Tuesday 30th June 2026 at www.ow-watch.com

Sleeping Beauty Or Self-Induced Coma?

I have written pretty extensively about Anonimo. And in truth, like anything that beguiles you, it is hard to be objective. But as it has now been nearly 4 years since my last visit to Le Locle, I genuinely feel that I can say this fairly and objectively...

The lights are on, but nobody appears to be home. 

Anonimo has now been through at least three sets of hands, and seems to be no closer to realizing its potential than the day they started. 

Over the past four years, there have effectively been no signs of life. No new models (and forgive me in advance if I've got that wrong). Three model families that seem to be betting more on being acceptable rather than being what Anonimo used to be about - bold (sometimes goofy), always (for better or worse) Anonimo.

I will be the first to say that you shouldn't live in the past, but the real challenge is that Anomimo doesn't seem to even be living in the present.

The "Sleeping Beauty" strategy is one that is well-known around Watch Town. And as it's been four very quiet years, I have to wonder if that is the plan. So maybe, hopefully, there is some one out there who wants to step in and right the ship. Someone, dare I say it, who's ready to speak to the current owners and convince them to sell, and then plant a gentle, but firm kiss on Sleeping Beauty's cheek and bring her out of this seemingly endless sleep.

We shall wait, and we shall see. But for now I will hold onto this -

The People You Meet On Vacation - Cimier and the 711 POP PINK

Courtesy of Cimier

Okay, vacation is often coupled with travel. And when your side-hustle is in Watch Town, at least once a year your vacation plans will be a busman's holiday in Switzerland. This past April found yours truly holding down the booth of one of the brands I work with. And I got a chance to see the other participating brands. In some instances it's very much like seeing old friends.

And you also get to have a closer look at some brands that you have admired from afar. Now make no mistake, I am loyal to the brands I work with, but I am, at heart, someone who loves watches. I am not (at least I don't think I am) a snob. I also make a point of living within reality (i.e. my means). At other times in my life I've owned two different Rolex models, and in hindsight the experience did not live up to my fevered dreams. And while it would be nice to own a Patek or Vacheron, I don't want a watch to own me. By that I mean if I have a watch, I want to be able to wear it without fear (of theft, damage, or worse).

So back to the matter at hand, and a little bit more about me. Up until three years ago, I would always spend at least a day or two in Biel/Bienne each Switzerland trip. And if I was particularly lucky, it might include a visit to Tissot Arena to either take in FC Biel/Bienne (football), or EHC Biel-Bienne (ice hockey).

You could say that I am the unofficial US supporters' club for both teams ; )

Okay, so what's the connection? After leaving each game at Tissot Arena, you can't help but clap eyes on the Cimier HQ as you are turning right to head out. So in an odd sort of way, I already felt connected.

So while I had been curious, and perhaps admired Cimier from afar, this past April was my first opportunity to spend real time with the collection, and get to meet two of the Cimier folks - Alexandra Lanz (CEO) and Antoine Abadie (Marketing Manager). And at least from my side, it was time well-spent. I will be coming back in more detail about the brand and the current offerings in later posts. But today is about (spoiler alert) my new-ish Cimier 711 POP PINK.

And as I am an impatient sort of fellow, I pulled the trigger without too much foot dragging ; )

Now I am a man of many moods, and I live in a climate that can be a bit unforgiving in terms of humidity and its effects on how a watch fits on. my wrist, I was partiularly drawn to Cimier's use of quick spring straps, but also the clever opening at the lug ends to ensure quick and easy changes. 

So much for that I also sprung for the bracelet, and a glad that I did ; )

After two months, let me just say that the love affair continues!

Now while I could drone on about tech specs, "value propositions", etc., I would rather just focus on what my philosophy about watches and time. You don't need one, and you can't escape the other. So at a bare minimum, a watch should bring you joy. And my Cimier 711 POP PINK brings me joy every time I wear it.

H992 - and the H992 × Astro

It seems that there is always something new to be discovered. And such is the case of H992. 

I first clapped eyes on the H992 collections last year in Geneva. This past year I got to spend more time with Maurizio Milani, who handles sales for the brand.

And in that time, I also got to spend more time with the various collections, and well... let's just say I might be raiding my piggy-bank yet again!

           

This is the H992 × Astro, and I am beguiled.

The case is of stainless steel, and measures 42 mm in diameter. The movement is Sellita's SW260-1, but with a COSC upgrade! 

     

So why is that such a big deal? I mean, plenty of COSC watches out there. But at this price point?

CHF 1'592.00?!?

This is really something special.

Okay, but beyond the tech niceties, I gotta be honest, I am seriously crushing on the dial.

Courtesy of H992

The dial is courtesy of Astro, a world-renowned artist known for his murals and street art.

If you are as obsessed as I am, here are the pertinents:



MOVEMENT:
SW260-1 automatic, COSC certified

CASE:
Black PVD steel,  or Steel

Case diameter
42mm

Case thickness
10.1mm

DIAL:
Astro

STRAP:
Rubber

Water resistance
10 ATM 100 meters

CRYSTAL:
Sapphire, double anti-reflective treatment on the inside AR43, thickness 1.40mm

LIMITED EDITION:
52

Jumping The Shark... with Vulcain

Per the Urban Dictionary -

jump-the-shark

The beginning of the end. Something is said to have "jumped the shark" when it has reached its peak and begun a downhill slide to mediocrity or oblivion. It's said to have been coined by Jon Hein, who has a web site, jumptheshark.com, and now a book detailing examples, especially as applied to TV shows. It supposedly refers to an episode of the TV show "Happy Days" in which Fonzie jumps over a shark on water skis, which Hein believes was the point at which the series had lost its touch and was beginning to grasp at straws.

Courtesy of Vulcain

I visited the Vulcain workshop four different times while I was working on my book about the Vulcain Cricket and the Presidents of the United States. The CEO during that time period was Carla Duarte. She provided invaluable assistance in pulling together the loose threads. I mention this, because there is an alternative narrative being shamelessly pushed as to who the CEO of Vulcain was at that time. But as has been said about other instances of the use of alternative facts, "a lie will travel around the world before the truth has got its boots on".

But back to the matter at hand. This is the latest effort to get something more out of a limited resource. And once again, it does not appear that the juice is worth the squeeze.

Think I'm being unfair? Let's just say that the various other special / limited edition Vulcain Crickets have finally worked their way through the grey and light grey markets after more than a few years of lingering around. And now another fever dream has popped up. 

Courtesy of Vulcain

This is the Cricket Titane. The case and a few parts of the movement are of titanium. The dial is described as "Flat Guilloché-Effect Dial: White printing, silver-tone indexes". I think that's a round about way of saying the dial is meant to look like something more than it is. And fair enough.

Courtesy of Vulcain

Limited to 100 pieces, and bargain priced at a mere $7,670 here are the pertinents:

HANDS: Hour and Minute Hands: Polished blue, seconds hands, polished black, Alarm Hand, Polished black
CASE: Titanium case with titanium bezel and saphire crystals
CASE-BACK: Sapphire exhibition caseback
DIAL: Flat Guilloché-Effect Dial: White printing, silver-tone indexes
DIAMETER: 33.30 mm
THICKNESS: 1.10 mm
GLASS: Anti-reflective crystal
WATER RESISTANCE: 5 ATM
DIMENSIONS: 39 mm
BUCKLE: Solid 316L stainless steel
MOVEMENT: Manufactured V14 Titanium Cricket, Geneva stripes decoration, blued steel screws
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes and seconds, alarm
FREQUENCY: 18'000 2,5 HZ
POWER RESERVE: 52 Hours