The BR-X3 Patrouille de France

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest from Bell & Ross. For the past several years they have partnered with the Patrouille de France aerobatic team for a special watch. This year's version is limited to 250 pieces.

The asking is $8,100.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Bell & Ross -

Movement : Manufacture. Automatic Mechanical Movement. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

Functions : Hours, minutes and seconds. Date window at 3 o'clock and power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock.

Case : 41 mm wide. 13.30 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Decorative side pillar and bezel in blue anodised aluminium with micro-blasted finish. Sapphire case-back featuring a custom metallised Patrouille de France logo.

Dial : Three-plate construction – matt black base, blue and white skeletonised applique, matt black insert – with polished and rhodium-plated “Baignoire-style” applique indices, filled with white Super-LumiNova® BGW9 Grade X1 (blue glow). Patrouille de France logo at 6 o'clock. Power reserve window featuring the colours of the French flag (blue, white and red). Skeletonised rhodium-plated hour and minutes hands filled with Super-LumiNova® BGW9 Grade X1 (blue glow).

Crystal : Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance : 100 metres.

Strap : Openworked black rubber and blue ultra-resilient synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.

The calendario quattro anni (cqa)

From ochs und junior -

Courtesy of ochs und junior

In honor of their 20th anniversary, ochs und junior has released an annual calendar good for four years.

This is a pre-order item, deliveries are anticipated to begin in October. Initial price is: CHF 6,900 – Export price 

CHF 7,460 – incl. 8.1% Swiss VAT

Here are the pertinents -

Case:

Grade 5 titanium, 40 mm  

Dial: 

circular graining in oj blue patina with markers decorated with white gold | Hour and minute hands, adorned in white gold | Second hand in orange | Date and month display in orange  

Movement:

ETA 2824-2 

Strap: 

Enzian in Ecopell calfskin, with or without orange stitching, available in sizes small, medium, large, or extra-large 

Weight: 

65 g (with buckle and strap) 

Warranty: two years 

Non-customizable.

The BR-03 Green Steel

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest in the BR-03 family. A three-hand automatic with date - in green.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41 mm in diameter. The movement is self-winding with a power reserve of 54 hours.

Here are all the pertinents -

Movement : Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic Mechanical Movement. 54-hour power reserve.

Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case : 41 mm wide. 9.65 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel.

Dial : Green sunray with black gradient, coated with glossy lacquer. “Baignoire-style” applique indices and numerals filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow). Skeletonised rhodium-plated hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow).

Crystal : Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance : 100 metres.

Strap : Black-coloured box calfskin leather and black ultra-resilient synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.

Priced at $4,100.

The Rallye Méca Quartz Chronographe GPFH 2026

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

This is the latest from the folks in Besançon. A new take on their Rallye chronograph collection.

In their own words -


LIP Rallye Chronograph Grand Prix de France Historique – Limited Edition 2026

The house of LIP has created a third exclusive model, in a limited and numbered edition, co-branded with the Grand Prix de France Historique to celebrate its third year as the Official Timekeeper. This season’s inspiration comes from the cyan blue run-off stripes that are iconic on the Circuit Paul Ricard.

The case is of polished stainless steel, and measures 39 mm in diameter.

The movement is a meca quartz.

Limited to 1,906 pieces, and priced at €349.00
Tax included.

The People You Meet on Vacation...Seven Days with the Manifesta

From Rotoris -

What I miss about BaselWorld, but am hoping to see more of in Geneva moving forward is the random chance meetings with emerging brands.

And one such meeting involved the founders of a watch brand that I had never heard of, but suspect will be the talk of watch fans moving forward. More about Founder and CEO Aakash Anand, and Co-Founder and Chief Creative Officer Prerna Gupta in a later post. Today is all about the Rotoris Manifesta.

Courtessy of Rotoris

The Manifesta is an interesting paradox. It is an extremely well-crafted, beautifully executed self-winding watch that is priced well within reach of almost any watch fan from the thrifty yet aspiring to the deep-pocketed. And in truth? This is a watch that will appeal to everyone across the board.

Rotoris is driven by the ethos of creating a luxury watch in India. But (and this might just be my perception) there also seems to be a desire to make a product that is not beyond the reach of everyone. Let's call it inclusive luxury.  While many of the watch components are from outside of India, the Manifesta is assembled in India. 

The beating heart (in this case, quite literally) of the Manifesta is the RSGA01. This is a calibre developed in partnership with Seagull, built on the ST2502K architecture, but specifically modified for Rotoris.

Seagull has come a very, very long way in terms of quality and stability. And the performance of the Manifesta in terms of time keeping have been top-notch. It has had no significant deviations (loss or gain) in time keeping. But more than that, the setting and winding has been surprising - in a good way. The crown is tactile, yet very smooth and forgiving to the touch, and the winding is gentle, not brittle or scratchy sounding. 

But let's get down to brass tacks, wearing comfort. You could have the most accurate watch in the world, but if it is not comfortable to wear, it will sit in your dresser drawer. 

A lot of wearing comfort is down to design and execution of the case itself.

The Manifesta's case has a wonderful curvature, ensuring it sits comfortably on the wrist. The dimensions are what I often refer to as "Goldilocks" - just right ; )

It measures 40 mm in diameter, with gently curved lugs. It is of stainless steel with a gold pvd finish. The curve and shape are gentle. The crystal is sapphire, making the black onyx dial truly pop.

The strap is teju lizard and crafted in India.

It is paired with a matching deployant clasp -

So if you were hoping to get your hands on one, this is a good news / not-so-good news review. The Manifesta has come and gone (limited edition), but the good news is that Rotoris is playing the long game. Small releases, teased out one at a time, with wait lists that far exceed the production numbers. So if you missed this one, stay tuned - Rotoris has plenty more magic up their sleeves!

People We Meet On Vacation - Watch Town

It's now been a little over two weeks since I got back from my week in Geneva. For those of you reading, you might be thinking like I once did - "it would be soooooo cool to work for a watch brand!" 

Well, yes and no. It's important to understand that you will be working (literally) 12 hour days for a week straight. And in my case? You are using the vacation time from your day job to do so. So yes, I do enjoy it, but it is not lost on me that this is work.

This is all by way of telling you that one of the things that keeps drawing me back is the possibility of meeting what Billy Kwan (played by Linda Hunt) referred to as the "unmet friend" the film adaptation of Christopher Koch's novel, The Year of Living Dangerously. Now in Billy Kwan's case it was the hope of meeting an idealized version of some confidant you can share everything with. In my case? I like to think of it more like Ted Lasso:

"Congrats, you both just met a cool person".

This year was not different. Several old friends reengaged with, some of the usual suspects coming through, and some wonderful encounters, completely unexpected.

I will be sharing two of those with you, along with the time machines that set them in motion. Stay tuned!

MECHANICA CHRONO "NINE IN TEN"

From Done -

Courtesy of Done 

While I might have announced this in an earlier some time back, I actually got to take the Mechanica Chrono for a spin around the halls of Geneva.

This was originally announced this new piece last December, but now that I have had a chance to try it on and put it through its paces?

Let me put all doubts aside - YOU WANT THIS WATCH! I certainly know that I do!

In speaking with the man behind Done, Thierry Clottu, the Nine in Ten will start shipping in June.

As a reminder, here are the pertinents -

Watch diameter

40mm

Bracelet/Strap width

20mm on the case and 18mm on the buckle

Water-resistant

10 ATM (100m)

Movement power reserve

60 hours (±2h)

Crown

Engraved with DONE logo

Case back

Screwed with sapphire crystal and consecutive number

Movement frequency

4Hz

Hands

Faceted and diamond-polished with Superluminova C1

Case Material

Stainless Steel

Type of watches

Chronograph

Movement

Automatic chronograph L111

Watch box

Leather travel pouch designed to hold multiple watch straps

The Transfer Window is Swinging WIDE OPEN

At House of Brands...

Freshly returned from Geneva, let's just say the multiple reincarnations taking place at the freshly minted "House of Brands" was a topic much discussed by Watch Town's cognoscenti. Curious to relate - fan boys and girls had nothing but sunshine for these re-re-re-releases. Gallet had actually been operating, albeit poorly, up until very recently, so this cannot really be placed in the class of a UG lift.

For those of us in Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates, let's just say we are divided. Those who crave to maintain their invitations for comped travel with celebrity "squadies" will no doubt bark like the trained seals they have come to be, waiting to be fed the tasty sardine that is a luxury press junket. For the rest of us...

Well, while I do appreciate the operating policy of not intentionally trying to "yuck someone's yum", I have to look at this through a bigger lens. While Breitling is certainly a brand most folks are aware of, it continues to lean heavily on celebrity "chums of the brand" while the prices climb relentlessly upward. And many folks are starting to ask if the juice is worth the squeeze. I'm not saying it is, or is not. I have my eye firmly on getting a Breitling Montbrillant Eclipse so although I'm not a fan boy, I appreciate a fine watch when I see one.

So then we get onto the now churning debate as to whether or not Universal Geneve has been priced appropriately. Well, the word around the campfire in Geneva (at least as spoken by those not fearful of being uninvited next year) was a fairly firm no. But then in fairness, it is a deeper question as to whether or not we (the press and employees of other brands) are really in a demographic that will matter in terms of sales. Probably not.

As for Gallet? Not unlike poor Yorick, I knew it. It was a brand bought by someone who then hired someone else to run it. It produced (if memory serves) a chronograph or two that were priced at dollar amounts not usually requested without the aid of a pistol and a getaway car. One abortive BaselWorld appearance in old Hall 2 was the high point.

And so now we have another "squad" set to be unleashed to put this all in motion.

Per World Tempus, Mr. Kern shared the following -

https://en.worldtempus.com/article/new-watches/house-brands-executive-leadership-breitling-82548.html

In the context of the creation of our House of Brands which includes Breitling, newly launched Universal Genève and upcoming Gallet, we have decided to further strengthen our executive leadership team and organization to drive continuous strong development of all three brands.

As CEO of House of Brands, I welcome Jean-Marc Pontroué to support the development of House of Brands as newly appointed CEO of Breitling. With an extensive career in the luxury watch industry at Montblanc and as CEO of Roger Dubuis (since 2011) and Panerai (since 2018), he brings long-standing experience in retail, wholesale and marketing.

Grégory Bruttin continues to build on the momentum created by the recent successful brand relaunch of Universal Genève and is appointed its Managing Director.

Erwan Rossignol is preparing with his team the relaunch of Gallet by the end of August 2026 and is appointed its Managing Director.

Antoine Loron (34) assumes newly the role of President of Breitling USA and Canada and joins the executive leadership board of Breitling and its product committee. His appointment follows a fast-tracked sales career first in our headquarters and his outstanding entrepreneurial successes in the Caribbean and Latin America. He will build on the strong foundations achieved by current President USA and Canada, Thierry Prissert, who has driven exceptional growth over the past fifteen years by successfully elevating our wholesale channel, establishing an extensive boutique network and securing our global NFL partnership. Thierry Prissert will continue to support Breitling’s brand expansion and the introduction of Universal Genève and Gallet in the American market and transition to chairman of the House of Brands USA board.

Renato Meier, currently Marketing Director of Breitling USA and Canada, having achieved strong momentum in marketing activations in the region, succeeds Antoine Loron as Managing Director of Breitling LATAM.

Together with our excellent current executive leadership team, we are well positioned to develop the full potential of our House of Brands. All changes will take effect in May 2026.

Georges Kern, CEO House of Brands.

As with all comings and goings in Watch Town, we won't really know anything until the dust settles, but we wish Mr. Kern and his squad good luck and Godspeed.

The London Air Ambulance Charity GMT

From Bamford London -

Courtesy of Bamford London

This is a very special watch to recognize and support a very special cause. 

So we'll let the folks from Bamford London tell it in their own words -

Bamford London is proud to announce the launch of a special GMT timepiece, created in support of the London's Air Ambulance Charity. For every London's Air Ambulance limited edition purchased, Bamford Watch Department will donate 22% of the ex vat sale to London's Air Ambulance Charity.

The watch has been thoughtfully designed to reflect the distinctive colours and identity of the life saving service. A distinctive design feature sees the traditional sweep seconds hand replaced with a replica of the helicopter's rotor blades, a subtle yet powerful tribute to the aircraft at the heart of the charity's life saving operations. At the base of the dial, a custom white medical cross houses a subtle helicopter silhouette, keeping the mission of the charity front and center.

The watch is housed in a robust black steel case, powered by a Swiss automatic GMT movement. This allows tracking of a second time zone via the internal bezel and dedicated GMT hand.

This special edition comes fitted as standard on a highly durable and vibrant Red Cordura Strap to perfectly complement the dial.

It is a pre-order item, priced at £1,800.00

Here are the pertinents, straight from Bamford -

• TYPE: Automatic GMT watch with internal rotating bezel
• MOVEMENT: Sellita SW330-2, 25 Jewels, 28,800 Vph, 56 hour power reserve
• FUNCTION: Self winding mechanism with ball bearing, 3 O’Clock date position with quick date setting, second time zone by central hand
• CASE MATERIAL: Black PVD Steel, Sapphire Crystal glass with antiglare
• CASE DIAMETER: 40 mm
• CASE THICKNESS: 11.7 mm
• CASEBACK MATERIAL: Black PVD Steel
• WATER-RESISTANCE: 100m / 10 ATM
• LUG WIDTH: 20mm
• LUG TO LUG LENGTH: 46.5mm

Geneva, Baby!

Finishing up my packing, and heading to Logan to catch the next hop to Zuric, then Geneva.

Anyone who will be in town, please come and see us (Ollech & Wajs) at Time to Watches from Tuesday through Sunday.

It's on like Donkey-Kong!

The Transfer Window Has Opened -

At Corum...

Courtesy of Corum

This is not exactly "new" news, but relevant as we are on the cusp of the Geneva shows. The talk around the campfires on the outskirts of Watch Town is not as rosy as anyone would like it to be. So let's shake the Magic 8 Ball to see if we can get some clarity on this murky situation.

Will there be more attempted management buyouts?

So there you have it!

Watch Town is at a crossroads. And I am quite certain that the Watches and Wonders braintrust are starting to get the squirts. Attendance is already in question, a few not insignificant brands have decided to take a pass this year, and whether or not the orders will be rolling in? Let's just say the Magic 8 Ball got this one right ; )

Whether Lambert will succeed in buying out his employer and whether more brands will follow suit remains to be seen. One thing is painfully, abundantly clear - the market is getting tight.

So Geneva, here we come!

The Emperor is Butt Naked

All the talk this AM seems to be about the re/launch of Universal Genève. And let's just say, it's not all good...

Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb

On the one hand, industry insiders (i.e. people who are never going to take out their own credit card to purchase a UG) are all patting their chum Mr. Kern on the back telling him how shrewd and clever he is.

And then we have, well, let's just say more than a few loyal fans who have been waiting for the new UG not unlike a 6 year old waiting for Christmas, who are now collectively recoiling at the price tag. For my part? In all honesty, Universal Genève never really turned my crank. It's perfectly nice, but nothing I've laid awake at night yearning for. So I don't have a dog in this particular fight.

For more than a few dollars more...

let's see what a shit ton of money will get you.

 

The Polerouter can be yours for a meare CHF 14,000 -

Courtesy of Universal Genève 

Let's put that into perspective... 

Actually, I can't. It is simply a stupid amount of money for what it actually is.

How about a chronograph?

Courtesy of Universal Genève 

A steal at CHF 15,500! 

As is the case with all things in Watch Town, we will have to wait and see. But when you take into consideration the ridiculously large sum that was paid to buy the brand out of mothballs, you might understand the desire to see at least some ROI. With that said, for those of us in the lower 48, you can do a lot with $19,622.81 (current conversion per XE as of 6:13 AM, Friday April 10). But then again, your kids don't need to go to college, you can take public transportation, and do you really need both kidneys?

The BR-03 Skeleton Steel

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest in the BR-03 range.

Priced at $5,900.00, this is a preorder item scheduled to start shipping at the end of this month.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41 mm in each direction. 

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Here are the pertinents -

Movement: Automatic mechanical movement. 54-hour power reserve.

Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds.

Case: 41 mm wide. 9.65 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel.

Dial: Skeletonised with transparent panel. “Baignoire-style” applique indexes and numerals filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow). Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow).

Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire.

Water resistance: 100 metres.

Strap: Black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

Buckle: Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.