The AQUASPHERE Matte Black

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

The case is of stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter and is rated to 300 meters (30 bars) of water resistance.

The movement is Sellita's SW 200-1.

Priced at $2.588

The BR-03 Diver Black Bronze

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest member of the BR-03 family - the Diver Black Bronze.

The case is true to the BR-03 DNA. It is of bronze and measures 42 mm wide and is 12.3 mm thick.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The movement is noted as Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Self-winding, automatic.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Water resistant to 300 meters, and a lume to light up the night.

Limited to 999 pieces, and priced at $5,500.

Here are the pertinents -

Technical Specifications

Movement : Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic mechanical movement. 54-hour power reserve.

Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case : 42 mm wide. 12.3 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished CuSn8 bronze. Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute scale in bronze, with white SuperLumiNova® X1 marking (green glow) and polished black ceramic ring. Screw-down crown with crown guard. Steel case-back.

Dial : Black, coated with glossy lacquer. “Baignoire-style” applique indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova® (green glow). Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® (green glow).

Crystal : Anti-reflective sapphire.

Water resistance : 300 metres.

Strap : Black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished bronze.

Remembering Dino Zei

I have been thinking a lot about the early days of The Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit. One of the kindest, and most generous people I had the chance to meet was Dino Zei.

There are times that I feel if I have to read one more hyperbolic press release scooped up and dumped on a tray from the all-you-can-eat bullshit buffet that seems to fuel many of the tonier watch "news" outlets, that my head might simply explode. From time to time you will be lucky enough to meet someone who reminds you that if you can swim through all of the codswallop, and find something genuine, it's hard not to be romantic about watches.

There were, of course, plenty of interesting watches at BaselWorld 2012, but the best part for me was meeting Dino Zei face to face.  In many ways, there would be no Panerai as it is known now if there had not been Dino Zei.

More than anything else, the thing that struck me was what an unbelievably nice guy he was.  He is no longer with us, but the collections he partnered with Anonimo on are still pursued by collectors.  Curious to relate, when Anonimo was sold off, completely different forums and collector's groups spun off - it was almost like the mid 80s which saw the ill-advised launch of New Coke, only to come back with Coca-Cola Classic a few months later.

A paper millionaire's plaything now, Anonimo did (and still does) have a lot of unrealized potential.  The Dino Zei brand is, unfortunately, not nearly as well executed as it could be, and is (in a personal effort to be charitable) curiously presented.

Shortly before his passing, Mr. Zei penned a wonderful history for Anonimo -

From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

The History of a Florentine Brand

Naval Officer, watch designer, writer - dare I say it... Renaissance man! And now a few minutes with Dino Zei -

Courtesy of Anonimo

James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Dino Zei - It was a gift and there is not a real "history behind" it. It was a gift from my parents, for my First Communion. Unfortunately I don’t remember the brand. I only remember how important that watch was for me. I used it for many years, in the conviction that the first watch is received for the First Communion, the second after high school and these two may be followed by a third one, purchased with your own money. When I was with Panerai in the 90s, we came out with two Panerai models based on Panerai models of the ‘30s, I learned that there are a lot of people out there who like owning a higher number of watches.

JH - Florence has become a bit of a new contender for watch making. While it would be easy to simply point to Panerai - and as the man formerly responsible for Panerai it would be easy to, there must be more to it - what are your thoughts on this?

DZ - Florence is traditionally rich in terms of “craftsmanlike” companies. Prestigious in terms of geniality and initiative. These are companies that invent, design and produce products, many of which fall within the “luxury” market. The international level of prestige that Florence enjoys has its roots in our Renaissance, rendering these products extremely valid in terms of sales. Watches are obviously present among these different product sectors. For them more than anything else, “luxury” means originality, beauty and high quality.

JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?

DZ - I wanted to be a Navy Officer (War Navy) when I grew up. I always wanted to do that, without any specific reason. Perhaps I had a romantic idea of the Navy…I was born in Viterbo, a city far away from the sea and lacking any maritime tradition or vocation. I was eleven years old when my dad took me to the sea. And I saw it for the first time in Civitavecchia, where my father and I went by train from Viterbo. The memory of that day is linked to the intense smell of rotten algae that is often present at the sea. The expanse of the horizon impressed me but did not surprise me, nor did it move me. Thinking about my life, I can say to have always loved the Navy deeply without ever being in love with the sea, which for many aspects, I have never appreciated.

 

JH - Before Anonimo, you were with Panerai, what did you do in the time in-between?

DZ - After having left Panerai I wrote a book: “La Panerai di Firenze” (Panerai of Florence), which in its second edition was titled “La Panerai in Firenze” (Panerai in Florence). Starting from the ‘30s, Panerai carried out intense and profitable study, design and production activities in sectors with high technological content and created many products, all valid, original, some extremely complex and innovative. But operating in the military sector and with highly secret products, it has always adopted the lowest possible profile. For this reason, Panerai was mentioned only for watches in texts and debates (also current texts): those of the ‘30s and those of the ‘90s. I didn’t think this was acceptable and I decided to write at least about the most significant aspects of all the activities carried out by Panerai until the end of the last century - a report on what Panerai did in different periods and with different men. In the monthly magazine “Orologi”, issue no. 248, of May 2011, a review of my book is included. 

JH - And prior to that, you were in the military, correct? How did that experience prepare you for the world of watch manufacturing?

DZ - In the military sphere, time has an absolute authority. Military life is always marked by time. Military activities are always programmed and possibly carried out in line with different timelines, with such diligence that for someone not familiar with it, it may appear maniacal. But it is essential for all those complex activities, like military ones, for which success depends on the orderly performance of various related actions. For this reason, the watch must be in the mind of each well trained operator, in addition to his wrist, and it must inspire and control the actions instinctively.

JH - How did you come to join Anonimo?

DZ - After having written the book that I previously mentioned, I realized that I wanted to continue to deal with watches. Dr. Massacesi, creator and back then owner of Anonimo (and an admirer of Panerai), proposed to me to create the “DINO ZEI” brand with which to design and create a line of Anonimo watches, and I accepted.

JH - I know that it is not always easy to choose a favorite child - but if you had to, what is your favorite Anonimo?

DZ - Anonimo watches are all beautiful, because they are designed with care, reflecting on each detail. One of the most beautiful, in my opinion, is the “DINO ZEI”, “GLAUCO” model, automatic, with box in bronze and blue dial.

 

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

DZ - The “Panerai Workshops” of Richemont Group. It has continued to produce “Panerai” watches in large scale, without giving up the main characteristics and high quality in terms of precision, reliability, readability of the dial, charge autonomy, etc…I’m thankful to the Richemont Group for having brought Panerai watches to an important position on the market. The “Luminor” watches in particular have witnessed heroic deeds and do no have a low-profile aspect, as I said in my book: "that makes them unusual at the wrist of a woman and unsuitable to that of man of weak thoughts". I always felt they represented a product that was easy to sell for who has the necessary resources. Therefore, the Richemont Group was right.
 

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

DZ - I can’t think about activities other than the many activities I do. All interesting, some prestigious.

 

JH - What is a typical day in the life of Dino Zei?

DZ - I’ve been leading a very secluded life for many years now, after I’ve lost my wife. I have undergone a surgery with consequences that have remarkably limited my practical activities. I had the opportunity to institute two annual scholarships in the memory of my wife, to contribute to the medical research on the pathology that affected her. I continue dealing with this with great pleasure. Moreover, I read a lot. I barely write.

JH - There are a lot of current and former military people starting to get involved in the watch industry - what advice do you have for folks such as these, making what must be a fairly significant career change? 

DZ - The advice that can be given to people that quit a military 

career to operate in the industrial and commercial sphere depends, in my opinion, on the sector in which they will operate and also on the specific activities that they will carry out. I can only recommend to them that they operate without ever forgetting the principles of deeply felt honesty that has been taught to them, and always try to carry out their work in an ethically correct manner, taking pride in their work.

The AQUASPHERE Ocean Fade

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is Hanhart's latest foray into divers -
The AQUASPHERE Ocean Fade, 42mm

It is priced at 1.590 € 

The case is stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter with an advertised water resistance of 30 ATM.

The movement is the Soprod SOP P024 - TOP Version.

The BR-05 SKELETON PHANTOM CERAMIC

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest addition to the Bell & Ross BR-05 family. The case is of black, micro blasted ceramic and measures 42 mm in diameter. It is rated to 300 meters of water resistance.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The movement is the Caliber BR-CAL.302-1, which is based on the Sellita SW300-1.

Limited to 500 pieces, and priced at $ 5,400.

Here are the pertinents -

• MOVEMENT

  Caliber BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic mechanical. 54-hour power reserve.

• FUNCTIONS

  Hours, minutes, seconds, and date.

• CASE

  42 mm wide. 11.2 mm thick. Microblasted black ceramic. Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute scale and markings filled with Super-LumiNova® (green glow).

• DIAL

  Black. "Baignoire-style" applique indexes outlined with Super-LumiNova® X2 (green glow). Skeletonized hour and minute hands outlined in Super-LumiNova® X2 (green glow). Arrow-shaped hour hand. Second hand filled with Super-LumiNova® X2 (green glow).

• CRYSTAL

  Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

• WATER-RESISTANCE

  300 meters.

• STRAP

  Black rubber and ultra-resistant black synthetic fabric.

• BUCKLE

  Pin. Black steel microblasted PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition).

The MARINE TYPE 3

From Laventure -

Courtesy of Laventure

This is the latest drop, offering two different versions. A white dial (above), and a black dial (below) -

Courtesy of Laventure

Limited to 100 pieces each, here are the pertinents -

Technical specifications

CASE

• Titanium Grade 23
• Diameter : 38,00 mm
• Thickness (without crystal) : 8.90 mm
• Length lugs to lugs : 46.20 mm
• Finishing : « tribofinition » / « stonewashed »

BEZEL

• Titanium Grade 23
• Fixed
• 60 graduations filled with black lacquer

CROWN

• Titanium Grade 23
• Diameter : 8,00 mm « Big Crown »
• Screwed

DIAL

• « Amagnetic » Sandwich Construction
• Galvanic black top plate, Super-LumiNova white pad printing
• Soft-iron bottom plate (Faraday cage)

HANDS

• Hours, Minutes and Seconds, matt white + Super-LumiNova white

WATERPROOF

• Laboratory-tested depth 300 m / 1000 ft to ISO 6425

ANTI-MAGNETIC

• Faraday cage
• Laboratory-tested resistance to magnetic fields to ISO 764 standard

STRAPS

• Main strap PFKM rubber and Titanium Grade 23 buckle
• Textile / Elastic secondary strap

The movement

Calibre 4 produced by Sellita on a “SW300-1 b” base for LAVENTURE®.

- Swiss Self-winding mechanical movement

- Frequency 4Hz, 28'800 Alt/h

- 25 jewels

- 56 hours power reserve

- Gilded 3N circular-grained pearl pattern plate

- Bridges "Côtes de Genève", diamond spiral, LAVENTURE engravings, gilded 3N

- Openworked oscillating weight, satin-finish, paper spiral, curved « soleillage », LAVENTURE engravings, gilded 3N

- Officially “CHRONOMÈTRE” certified

The BR-03 Diver Lum Outline

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest diver from Bell & Ross. The case is ceramic and measures 42 mm. The movement is listed as Calibre BR-CAL.302-1, which I believe is based on Sellita's SW300-1 per the folks at Caliber Corner.

This is limited to 500 pieces, and is priced at $5,200.

The Vanitas

From Arena Timepieces -

Courtesy of Arena

This is the latest of a (thankfully) growing number of US based watch brands who although sourcing movements, cases, etc. from other locales, are in fact assembling their watches here in the US.

DESIGNED, ENGINEERED, AND ASSEMBLED IN LOS ANGELES

Now before anything else, I have to speak to what I have sensed as the brand's ethos - nothing is permanent, even time. Now in fairness, I can't claim super powers of intuition, but was tipped off by this statement on Arena's landing page:

YOUR TIME WILL END

You can't put it more plainly than that ; )

The case is of stainless steel, and measures 39 mm in diameter, featuring a domed sapphire crystal.

Courtesy of Arena

The Arena comes standard with a stainless steel bracelet (above), and if I have understood correctly, a vulcanized rubber strap (below) -

Courtesy of Arena

Now onto the ever burning question - the price and availability. 

$1,430 is the ask, and for what you are getting it is a very, very fair price. This release is limited to 300 pieces.

For a first release, this is a very, very strong contender. The lines are clean, the dial super clear and legible (YOUR TIME WILL END - and your eye sight will not always be perfect). The bracelet is not like so many others out there, the look is unique. For movements, the choice of a Sellita is a solid one. Oh, and it's Chronometer Grade! 

The Vanitas is assembled in Los Angeles, not a third-party white label company in the Swiss Jura, Ticino, or other locales. Closer to the source, and easier to ensure quality control.

For more information, and to place your order, visit Arena Timepieces -

Arena TImepieces Vanitas

The Marinor Ghost North Blue

From Héron -

Courtesy of Héron

This is one of the newest offerings from Héron of Canada. The Marinor Ghost's case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter, and a length of 47 mm. It is described as being scratch resistant.

Courtesy of Héron

The movement is Miyota's 9039. 

Courtesy of Héron

The lume is very impressive. 

And the price makes this a very affordable option, if it's in your wheelhouse - $590. 

Here are the pertinents -

Limited Edition: 50 Pieces

Colorway: North Blue REF. 3202-B

Specifications

• Hardened Stainless Steel - 1200HV
  
• Automatic Miyota 9039 (No Battery Required)
• Boxed Sapphire Crystal (AR Coated)
• Sterile Rotating Bezel - 120 Clicks, Uni-Directional
• Swiss Lume: Blue Super-Luminova (BGW9)
• Brushed Case and Bracelet
• Screw Down Crown & Caseback
• Water Resistance: 300 Meter | 1000 Feet
• Diver Bracelet | Screwed Links, Quick Release & Micro-Adjustment System 
• Prescison Screwdriver included

When I Think About Dirk Pitt, I Think About...

Cufflinks?

Courtesy of DOXA

Now, in fairness, maybe there are some folks out there who want these. But please allow me to provide you with some needed context -

When I first launched the Blog Formerly Known as Tempus Fugit, I went to BaselWorld and JCK and multiple brand dinners in Los Angeles. Invariably, there would be swag. More often than not, the swag would be divided by "his" and "hers". If it was Patek Philippe it meant the guys got a tie - which were always very, very nice. If it was Hermes, the guys often got a pocket square. And inevitably, there were the cufflinks. 

Now, beyond that, as someone who used to sell DOXA SUBs on behalf of Synchron in North America, I feel empowered to make the following statement -

The "typical" DOXA SUB customer back in the day (2005 - 2012) was a bit of a stereotype. Having done several events, as well as handling customer service, and writing a lot of the ad copy, I feel confident in this assessment. Almost exclusively men, who (if the Watch U Seek forum was anything to go by) were "manly men" who had they been born at the right time would surely have enlisted after Pearl Harbor, and punched a Nazi out on Normandy Beach. 

Courtesy of DOXA

So thank goodness that DOXA still knows and understands its customer base! 

Now, in fairness, I haven't worked even adjacent to the Jenny's (DOXA company owners) for going on 15 years. And it also seems that they have finally grown their retail network beyond Watches of Switzerland. They have enough SKUs to sink a boat, and if they ever decide to do something beyond a dive watch, who knows?

With that being said, $1,280 for a complete set of DOXA SUB cufflinks ($330 per pair if bought individually) seems a bit hopeful. With that said, I do know that there are guys out there who probably had Dirk Pitt tattooed somewhere on their person, and maybe even the Jenny fish logo, so perhaps there is a market...

A funny side story, I had worked HARD to get a one page feature in what was at the time the equivalent of The Rake, Men's Vogue. I was actually really proud of this because it was not an easy thing to get done. And my boss almost scuppered the whole thing as he tried to get the writer to add 1000 words to a 300 word piece. So I posted an image of the story on the DOXA forum and the "He Men" came out in droves! Comments like:

"Men's Vogue? Better check your man card! Haw-haw!"

A lot of years have passed, and with only a pistachio dialed SUB waiting to be released, the Jennys have certainly taken it farther than we were ever allowed to go. But this latest salvo, to be honest, I just don't know. But for those die-hard DOXA guys out there who need something to help dress up their "formal" t-shirt, it's nice to know that they'll have options...