Remembering Dino Zei

I have been thinking a lot about the early days of The Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit. One of the kindest, and most generous people I had the chance to meet was Dino Zei.

There are times that I feel if I have to read one more hyperbolic press release scooped up and dumped on a tray from the all-you-can-eat bullshit buffet that seems to fuel many of the tonier watch "news" outlets, that my head might simply explode. From time to time you will be lucky enough to meet someone who reminds you that if you can swim through all of the codswallop, and find something genuine, it's hard not to be romantic about watches.

There were, of course, plenty of interesting watches at BaselWorld 2012, but the best part for me was meeting Dino Zei face to face.  In many ways, there would be no Panerai as it is known now if there had not been Dino Zei.

More than anything else, the thing that struck me was what an unbelievably nice guy he was.  He is no longer with us, but the collections he partnered with Anonimo on are still pursued by collectors.  Curious to relate, when Anonimo was sold off, completely different forums and collector's groups spun off - it was almost like the mid 80s which saw the ill-advised launch of New Coke, only to come back with Coca-Cola Classic a few months later.

A paper millionaire's plaything now, Anonimo did (and still does) have a lot of unrealized potential.  The Dino Zei brand is, unfortunately, not nearly as well executed as it could be, and is (in a personal effort to be charitable) curiously presented.

Shortly before his passing, Mr. Zei penned a wonderful history for Anonimo -

From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

The History of a Florentine Brand

Naval Officer, watch designer, writer - dare I say it... Renaissance man! And now a few minutes with Dino Zei -

Courtesy of Anonimo

James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Dino Zei - It was a gift and there is not a real "history behind" it. It was a gift from my parents, for my First Communion. Unfortunately I don’t remember the brand. I only remember how important that watch was for me. I used it for many years, in the conviction that the first watch is received for the First Communion, the second after high school and these two may be followed by a third one, purchased with your own money. When I was with Panerai in the 90s, we came out with two Panerai models based on Panerai models of the ‘30s, I learned that there are a lot of people out there who like owning a higher number of watches.

JH - Florence has become a bit of a new contender for watch making. While it would be easy to simply point to Panerai - and as the man formerly responsible for Panerai it would be easy to, there must be more to it - what are your thoughts on this?

DZ - Florence is traditionally rich in terms of “craftsmanlike” companies. Prestigious in terms of geniality and initiative. These are companies that invent, design and produce products, many of which fall within the “luxury” market. The international level of prestige that Florence enjoys has its roots in our Renaissance, rendering these products extremely valid in terms of sales. Watches are obviously present among these different product sectors. For them more than anything else, “luxury” means originality, beauty and high quality.

JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?

DZ - I wanted to be a Navy Officer (War Navy) when I grew up. I always wanted to do that, without any specific reason. Perhaps I had a romantic idea of the Navy…I was born in Viterbo, a city far away from the sea and lacking any maritime tradition or vocation. I was eleven years old when my dad took me to the sea. And I saw it for the first time in Civitavecchia, where my father and I went by train from Viterbo. The memory of that day is linked to the intense smell of rotten algae that is often present at the sea. The expanse of the horizon impressed me but did not surprise me, nor did it move me. Thinking about my life, I can say to have always loved the Navy deeply without ever being in love with the sea, which for many aspects, I have never appreciated.

 

JH - Before Anonimo, you were with Panerai, what did you do in the time in-between?

DZ - After having left Panerai I wrote a book: “La Panerai di Firenze” (Panerai of Florence), which in its second edition was titled “La Panerai in Firenze” (Panerai in Florence). Starting from the ‘30s, Panerai carried out intense and profitable study, design and production activities in sectors with high technological content and created many products, all valid, original, some extremely complex and innovative. But operating in the military sector and with highly secret products, it has always adopted the lowest possible profile. For this reason, Panerai was mentioned only for watches in texts and debates (also current texts): those of the ‘30s and those of the ‘90s. I didn’t think this was acceptable and I decided to write at least about the most significant aspects of all the activities carried out by Panerai until the end of the last century - a report on what Panerai did in different periods and with different men. In the monthly magazine “Orologi”, issue no. 248, of May 2011, a review of my book is included. 

JH - And prior to that, you were in the military, correct? How did that experience prepare you for the world of watch manufacturing?

DZ - In the military sphere, time has an absolute authority. Military life is always marked by time. Military activities are always programmed and possibly carried out in line with different timelines, with such diligence that for someone not familiar with it, it may appear maniacal. But it is essential for all those complex activities, like military ones, for which success depends on the orderly performance of various related actions. For this reason, the watch must be in the mind of each well trained operator, in addition to his wrist, and it must inspire and control the actions instinctively.

JH - How did you come to join Anonimo?

DZ - After having written the book that I previously mentioned, I realized that I wanted to continue to deal with watches. Dr. Massacesi, creator and back then owner of Anonimo (and an admirer of Panerai), proposed to me to create the “DINO ZEI” brand with which to design and create a line of Anonimo watches, and I accepted.

JH - I know that it is not always easy to choose a favorite child - but if you had to, what is your favorite Anonimo?

DZ - Anonimo watches are all beautiful, because they are designed with care, reflecting on each detail. One of the most beautiful, in my opinion, is the “DINO ZEI”, “GLAUCO” model, automatic, with box in bronze and blue dial.

 

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

DZ - The “Panerai Workshops” of Richemont Group. It has continued to produce “Panerai” watches in large scale, without giving up the main characteristics and high quality in terms of precision, reliability, readability of the dial, charge autonomy, etc…I’m thankful to the Richemont Group for having brought Panerai watches to an important position on the market. The “Luminor” watches in particular have witnessed heroic deeds and do no have a low-profile aspect, as I said in my book: "that makes them unusual at the wrist of a woman and unsuitable to that of man of weak thoughts". I always felt they represented a product that was easy to sell for who has the necessary resources. Therefore, the Richemont Group was right.
 

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

DZ - I can’t think about activities other than the many activities I do. All interesting, some prestigious.

 

JH - What is a typical day in the life of Dino Zei?

DZ - I’ve been leading a very secluded life for many years now, after I’ve lost my wife. I have undergone a surgery with consequences that have remarkably limited my practical activities. I had the opportunity to institute two annual scholarships in the memory of my wife, to contribute to the medical research on the pathology that affected her. I continue dealing with this with great pleasure. Moreover, I read a lot. I barely write.

JH - There are a lot of current and former military people starting to get involved in the watch industry - what advice do you have for folks such as these, making what must be a fairly significant career change? 

DZ - The advice that can be given to people that quit a military 

career to operate in the industrial and commercial sphere depends, in my opinion, on the sector in which they will operate and also on the specific activities that they will carry out. I can only recommend to them that they operate without ever forgetting the principles of deeply felt honesty that has been taught to them, and always try to carry out their work in an ethically correct manner, taking pride in their work.

Fall Repeat - The Sales / Brand Manager

This first saw the light of day in "The Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit" back before the COVID 19 Pandemic reared its ugly head. With the latest shenanigans of the current Presidential administration continuing to baffle one and all, I don't see any resolution coming any time soon to the current not-so-great state of Watch Town. But at least this time around people aren't dying by the truckload due to misinformation.

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Sales/Brand Manager

5:30 AM - The alarm goes off, and tempting though it may be to hit the snooze, you pull yourself out of bed, jump on your Peleton and commit yourself to another 30 minutes of fitness.

6:50 AM - Showered, you make yourself presentable, grab a coffee and fire up your laptop for the weekly video conference with HQ.

8:15 AM - your daughter calls to remind you that as it is your weekend, she will be waiting for you outside of school following STEM club at 4:00 PM.  You make a note in your phone and set the alarm for 3:45 to remind yourself.

9:05 AM - safely settled at your desk, you scroll through the "Butcher's Bill" to try and figure out why you got blindsided a few hours ago when HQ informed you that:

1.  You need to close Retail Partner A.  No real detail given.

2.  You need to continue to extend credit to retail partner Z, even though they have not paid their invoices for the past 5 months, hit you with $26,333 of "co-op" advertising expenses, and requiring you to arrange a "junket" for the owner, the owner's current (not his wife) girlfriend, their assistant manager and 2 of their "loyal" customers to visit the HQ, factory, and maybe, you know if there's time, ski a little...

While reviewing all of the internal and external communication, you happen to glance up at a map of Los Angeles and it all becomes clear.  Retail Partner Z is opening up a new "fuck you" store literally across the hall from Retail Partner A, and demanding (literally) that your boss in Switzerland cut off Retail Partner A.  You then remember one of the pictures on the wall at HQ in New York with your boss, the girlfriend (not wife) of your boss, Retail Partner Z and half of the Los Angeles Lakers, courtside at the Staple's Center.

And of course, it just so happens that you are based in (or at least near) Los Angeles...

10:00 AM - Retail Partner A's store has opened.  You meet the owner and the two of you head out of the mall to a nearby restaurant so that you can speak in private.  Retail Partner A was the first store you ever opened an account for your first brand, some 20 years ago.  To his credit, Retail Partner A says he totally understands, he has seen this coming.  You personally really like Retail Partner A.  He and his wife have always sent your daughter both birthday and Christmas presents.  They insist on picking up the check even when they are your guests, they are old-school, shook Sinatra's hand type of retailers.  You excuse yourself for a few minutes, go out to the street and call your boss.  You explain that as a sign of good will, you need authorization to buy back the product.  Considering that most of it is still untouched (as it was just delivered 3 weeks ago), in the wrapping, you can simply walk it across the hallway to Retail Partner Z when they open.  Your boss is in agreement so long as 90% of the pieces are re-sellable.  You do the mental math (you looked at the safe count while you were speaking with Retailer A, and there are 13 pieces that have some wear, which tips it to 15% of the inventory.

You go back in, tell them exactly what your boss told you, but suggest that they take 6 of the slightly worn pieces that are the most likely to sell, and blow them out at 40% off, ensuring that the store can make 10% profit off of them, and be in compliance for the buy-back.

You suggest an early lunch (it is now 11:45) and once again, Retail Partner A grabs the check and will not let you pay.

12:50 PM - You walk Retail Partner A back to their store, and take a moment to make some calls before your next appointment - 175 feet across the mall's "hallway" to visit the soon to be opened 5th location of Retail Partner Z.

Retail Partner Z makes you wait a good 20 minutes in the construction area.  Once done, Retail Partner Z excuses himself, and Junior (second born son) takes over the meeting.  In a very short timeframe (less than a year) Junior has managed to piss off every brand rep he has come in contact with, and driven out more than half of the sales staff at their flagship store in Beverly Hills.  You have resigned yourself to simply nodding and smiling.  But Junior wants to flex his muscles and decides to get pissy with you anyway.  He demands to know why Retail Partner A still is carrying your brand.  You explain that they (Retail Partner Z) will have the exclusive rights the day that they open - which is still 45 days out.

2:00 PM - Junior says - "Hey, I'm hungry.  Buy me lunch and we can talk about our order".  So off you go to lunch #2.  Junior, although he drove to work, decides that a few bourbons would be a good idea on a hot Los Angeles afternoon.  You pay the check (a little over $200 with tip), and Junior says that next time you need to go somewhere nicer - "You guys need to stop being so cheap!".

You walk Junior back to his car, send your best regards to his dad, and hope like hell he does not get stopped by the cops.  3:00 PM is a bit early in the day, but he insisted.

You walk back through the mall to pick up the book your daughter asked you to order on Amazon, and as you're walking to the garage, you hear someone calling to you.  You turn to see your fried Julia, who is the district manager for Unobtainium, one of the hottest watch brands that is finally going into independent retail.  She has just finished meeting with Retail Partner A, and is happy with the outcome.  She thanks you for the referral, and comments on how much people must love them as flowers and two gourmet baskets arrived along with 2 bottles of champagne during her pitch.  You make plans to see each other at the Las Vegas shows in June, and hop in your car.  You make a mental note that you will not be able to submit the gift baskets and flowers on your expense account as they are not part of your approved expenses.

3:45 - The alarm on your iPhone goes off, just as you are rounding the corner to pick up your daughter.  Yes, you are early, but you savor the moment, listen to the last 10 minutes of your podcast, and think about the weekend.

In Memoriam - Angelo Bonati

 

Courtesy of Italia Living

Word reached the North Shore offices of Henki Time that former Panerai CEO Angelo Bonati has passed away.

In an industry where more often than not you are either born into leadership (Chopard, LVMH, Patek), or you land in a comfy place - think Mr. Dufour of Rolex, very few people could have taken what a brand considered something of an anomaly, and make it the object of intense desire. But that is just what Panerai became under Angelo Bonati.

There are unicorns out there, to be sure, but as we roll past the first quarter of this century, they are becoming much thinner on the ground. It's easy for people to forget how different things were in 2000. A 44 mm case was anathema. Today it is "average". Watch fans will recall the ill-fated Anonimo which is still bobbing about in the flotsam of Watch Town's harbor. Proof positive that without the vision, investment, and consistency, a brand will become an afterthought. 

Back in 2003 when I broke in with Tourneau in their original San Francisco store, we were not authorized to sell Panerai (new Panerai, that is), but we did a brisk trade in pre-owned Panerai. So brisk that a Panerai would go in the showcase and likely be sold before the close of business. That, in fact, was how I got mine. A "B" series Luminor. The rule for employees buying a pre-owned watch was that it had to stay in the case for at least one full day before you could purchase it. And you had to pay full price, no employee discount! So I waited, and once the doors were closed? I pounced! And to say I loved that watch is an understatement. I still miss it to this day. But that is a story for another day.

But that is the manic obsession that Panerai created, and continues to evoke to this day. And it couldn't have happened without Mr. Bonati.

Go easy, sir.

The Transfer Window Has Opened...

At Richemont and Panerai -

Courtesy of Richemont

It is now official, Emmanuel Perrin will be the CEO of Panerai effective April 1. He will take over from Jean-Marc Pontroué.

Up to this point, Mr. Perrin has been in charge of Richemont's Specialist Watchmakers division. But with the earlier move of 

Jérôme Lambert back to Jaeger‑LeCoultre was perhaps a foretelling that the Specialist Watchmakers division might not continue on in its previous format.

With Watches and Wonders around the corner, there is sure to be other news coming from other brands, so stay tuned ; )

The Luminor Destro Otto Giorni

From Panerai -

Courtesy of Panerai

So it goes without saying that while my first (intentional) horological purchase was from Omega, and my first true watch obsession was the Vulcain Cricket, a solid third place was Panerai. And in fairness, this was Panerai writ large. 

 

Courtesy of Panerai

I bought my first (and to date, only) Panerai when I was working at Tourneau in San Francisco. I say first because I do hope to have another one - serious negotiations are currently being held at the highest level with my piggy bank.

That Panerai was something special, if not perfect. It was a B-series, hand-winding Luminor. I had bought it as a pre-owned item while working for Torneau in San Francisco. After about 3 weeks of wearing, the crown stripped and it had to go back for service. Thus a painful month or two was spent anxiously waiting for its return. In the end we were reunited, but as I have learned through the paths my life has traveled, nothing is necessarily permanent. Although no longer with me, that Luminor still ocupies a space (and absence) both physically and emotionally. And just when I thought I was over this heartbreak, Panerai comes out with something that has stirred up that longing.

Courtesy of Panerai

The Luminor Destro Otto Giorni is something worth obsessing over. It ticks the old-school Paneristi boxes in that it is of stainless steel and measures 44 mm in diameter. But then, to quote that other great commentator on watches, James Brown, Panerai "takes it to the bridge"!

For those unfamiliar, per the Planetary Group:

Fans of James Brown will recognize the phrase “Take it to the bridge!” from a few of his recordings and many of his live performances. For James Brown, the bridge is an instrumental section that features a new melody and rhythmic line, such as in “Sex Machine”. It creates a break for the listeners’ ears, a new context that freshens up the original riff when the band returns to it, and sometimes makes space for James Brown to dance.

And this is just what Panerai has done! They've taken the original Luminor, and coaxed something special out of it.

First? The decision to go "destro" (that's left for you, and I don't think it's political). It adds that special bit of "Panesequa". But then we get to the movement, and the unfortunate fate of my B-series winding crown comes to mind. Every day you must unscrew the screw-down crown to wind the watch, then screw it back down. This causes wear. Moreover every time you do so, you give more opportunties for your watch's arch nemeses to invade the inner sactum - grit and moisture being the chief offenders. But what if you could go eight days between unscrewing, winding, and screwing back down? Or to use the Italian - Via otto giorni? Sounds pretty great to me.

So let's get down to details - the Luminor Destro Otto Giorni is not an impulse buy, priced at $8,100. But then again, when you consider just what $8,100 is getting you, it seems in line with what other brands have going in that price category. But I would go further - there are very few brands out there with an 8-day movement. And about that movement? It is hand-winding (mechanical) the P.5000 calibre, boasting a power reserve of 8 days.

For myself? I'm obsessed, thank you very much!

Reheated Leftovers - I Could Do It Better Myself - The Sales/Brand Manager

This first came out several years ago, but still rings true ; )

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Sales/Brand Manager

5:30 AM - The alarm goes off, and tempting though it may be to hit the snooze, you pull yourself out of bed, jump on your Peleton and commit yourself to another 30 minutes of fitness.

6:50 AM - Showered, you make yourself presentable, grab a coffee and fire up your laptop for the weekly video conference with HQ.

8:15 AM - your daughter calls to remind you that as it is your weekend, she will be waiting for you outside of school following STEM club at 4:00 PM.  You make a note in your phone and set the alarm for 3:45 to remind yourself.

9:05 AM - safely settled at your desk, you scroll through the "Butcher's Bill" to try and figure out why you got blindsided a few hours ago when HQ informed you that:

1.  You need to close Retail Partner A.  No real detail given.

2.  You need to continue to extend credit to retail partner Z, even though they have not paid their invoices for the past 5 months, hit you with $26,333 of "co-op" advertising expenses, and requiring a "junket" for the owner, the owner's current (not his wife) girlfriend, their assistant manager and 2 of their "loyal" customers to visit the HQ, factory, and maybe, you know if there's time, ski a little...

While reviewing all of the internal and external communication, you happen to glance up at a map of Los Angeles and it all becomes clear.  Retail Partner Z is opening up a new "f - you" store literally across the hall from Retail Partner A, and demanding (literally) that your boss in Switzerland cut off Retail Partner A.  You then remember one of the pictures on the wall at HQ in New York with your boss, the girlfriend (not wife) of your boss, Retail Partner Z and half of the Los Angeles Lakers, courtside at the Staple's Center.

And of course, it just so happens that you are based in (or at least near) Los Angeles...

10:00 AM - Retail Partner A's store has opened.  You meet the owner and the two of you head out of the mall to a nearby restaurant so that you can speak in private.  Retail Partner A was the first store you ever opened an account for your first brand, some 20 years ago.  To his credit, Retail Partner A says he totally understands, he has seen this coming.  You personally really like Retail Partner A.  He and his wife have always sent your daughter both birthday and Christmas presents.  They insist on picking up the check even when they are your guests, they are old-school, shook Sinatra's hand type of retailers.  You excuse yourself for a few minutes, go out to the street and call your boss.  You explain that as a sign of good will, you need authorization to buy back the product.  Considering that most of it is still untouched (as it was just delivered 3 weeks ago), in the wrapping, you can simply walk it across the hallway to Retail Partner Z when they open.  Your boss is in agreement so long as 90% of the pieces are re-sellable.  You do the mental math (you looked at the safe count while you were speaking with Retailer A, and there are 13 pieces that have some wear, which tips it to 15% of the inventory.

You go back in, tell them exactly what your boss told you, but suggest that they take 6 of the slightly worn pieces that are the most likely to sell, and blow them out at 40% off, ensuring that the store can make 10% profit off of them, and be in compliance for the buy-back.

You suggest an early lunch (it is now 11:45) and once again, Retail Partner A grabs the check and will not let you pay.

12:50 PM - You walk Retail Partner A back to their store, and take a moment to make some calls before your next appointment - 175 feet across the mall's "hallway" to visit the soon to be opened 5th location of Retail Partner Z.

Retail Partner Z makes you wait a good 20 minutes in the construction area.  Once done, Retail Partner Z excuses himself, and Junior (second born son) takes over the meeting.  In a very short timeframe (less than a year) Junior has managed to piss off every brand rep he has come in contact with, and driven out more than half of the sales staff at their flagship store in Beverly Hills.  You have resigned yourself to simply nodding and smiling.  But Junior wants to flex his muscles and decides to get pissy with you anyway.  He demands to know why Retail Partner A still is carrying your brand.  You explain that they (Retail Partner Z) will have the exclusive rights the day that they open - which is still 45 days out.

2:00 PM - Junior says - "Hey, I'm hungry.  Buy me lunch and we can talk about our order".  So off you go to lunch #2.  Junior, although he drove to work, decides that a few bourbons would be a good idea on a hot Los Angeles afternoon.  You pay the check (a little over $200 with tip), and Junior says that next time you need to go somewhere nicer - "You guys need to stop being so cheap!".

You walk Junior back to his car, send your best regards to his dad, and hope like hell he does not get stopped by the cops.  3:00 PM is a bit early in the day, but he insisted.

You walk back through the mall to pick up the book your daughter asked you to order on Amazon, and as you're walking to the garage, you hear someone calling to you.  You turn to see your fried Julia, who is the district manager for Unobtainium, one of the hottest watch brands that is finally going into independent retail.  She has just finished meeting with Retail Partner A, and is happy with the outcome.  She thanks you for the referral, and comments on how much people must love them as flowers and two gourmet baskets arrived along with 2 bottles of champagne during her pitch.  You make plans to see each other at the Las Vegas shows in June, and hop in your car.  You make a mental note that you will not be able to submit the gift baskets and flowers on your expense account as they are not part of your approved expenses.

3:45 - The alarm on your iPhone goes off, just as you are rounding the corner to pick up your daughter.  Yes, you are early, but you savor the moment, listen to the last 10 minutes of your podcast, and think about the weekend. 

And Then Panerai Called Out To Me

Okay, as previously noted, I am not a huge fan of mono-brand boutiques. Having said that, every now and then I get a pleasant surprise!

Newbury Street has become a hotbed for watch boutiques. IWC, Rolex, Patek, Richard Mille, and now Panerai.

Unlike a lot of boutiques - particularly the ones I remember from Beverly Hills, the Panerai boutique has a LOT of space. The displays are well spaced out, and unlike so many boutiques, there is actual product!

And of course, boutique exclusives.

And although everyone thinks Luminor when they think of Panerai, I favor the Radiomir -

And in the words of Chet Baker - I fall in love too easily...

I have been admiring this little wrist rocket from afar and finally had an opportunity to try it on.

The Radiomir Tre Giorni!

I think I admire so much because in many ways it is so different from what you think of when you think of Panerai. It is subtle, but yet still clearly a Panerai - just not so obvious! So now I have to have a serious conversation with my current collection and my piggy bank as the Radiomir Tre Giorni is haunting my dreams.

Above all else, however, a boutique is the people who work there. As a former Tourneau guy, I always make a point of identifying myself as press - NOT a potential customer. I don't want anyone feeling like I was wasting their time. In most situations, the sales staff will nod and say "feel free to look around". But clearly Panerai believes in customer service! Victoria who was working that day welcomed me, asked me whether I would like water (even sparkling) or coffee while looking around, and gave a lot of great information and feedback on the boutique, what was popular here in Boston, and is now complicit in my scheme to buy a Radiomir Tre Giorni ; )

So if you should find yourself in or around Back Bay, I highly recommend you pop in.

Field Trip

My day job brought me to Boston and I found myself with a hour on my hands before catching my train back north, so I wandered down to Newbury and Boylston streets -

Although we haven't hit Thanksgiving here in the lower 48, everyone is already pushing that Christmas vibe.

I used to work in the main branch of the Boston Public Library, but in truth it has been a minute since then. I would walk from North Station to work, and this would take me down Newbury street. Needless to say, the IWC and Panerai boutiques are new, and Long's has a new Patek Philippe boutique across the street - complete with two very imposing security guards and a locked door ; )

Ordinarily, I am not a fan of mono-brand boutiques. Small selection, small space, disengaged staff. But yesterday I went against my bias, and popped into the Panerai boutique. And suffice it to say, I was very, very impressed!

I will sum it up later this evening, as work is calling and it's a long drive to the Merrimack Valley ; )

Stay tuned!
 

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Volunteer Media - An Update From Henki

I wrote this back when I still owned and operated Tempus Fugit. A fair bit has happened in that time. I opted out of a job with a brand, I sold Tempus Fugit to someone who handed it to someone else, and it now appears to not be publishing anything, I accepted the job I have now which is working for MassHire - we help people find jobs and train for new careers. It is very satisfying work albeit with very long hours. Owing to this the publication pace and nature of Henki Time is not as manic as others. With that said, I still feel I have something to say, and this piece is one that I think still rings true. So brand owners and brand managers - don't forget to support the volunteer press. 

Even when we say things that might cut a bit too close to the bone ; )

A much younger Henki teaching English in Villa do Conde Portugal in 1995. You might recognize the gentleman on the far right as the current Secretary General of the United Nations.

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Volunteer Media - An Update From Henki

Despite what some folks think, the majority of the press covering the watch business these days is of a voluntary nature.  This is largely the result of brands cutting advertising budgets, and people going back to former occupations, getting married, or finding better ways to earn a living and spend their free (and not so free) time.

So gentle reader, an inside look at a day in the life of Henki -

5:30 - Whether I like it or not, Tallulah (the older cat and Executive Publisher) is awake and waiting to be fed.  Sabrina (the younger cat and Editor in Chief) is waiting as well.  I head downstairs, turn up the heat in the house, and feed the cats.  I gulp down my morning tablets with a glass of water, have the first of several espressos and head back upstairs to the office.

5:45 - emails reviewed, and...
Not a sausage! 
Not only has watch advertising money dried up, watch brands are producing fewer and fewer models, and some have made their PR functions redundant.  News is scant, and unlike some of my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate, I prefer not to manufacture it.

6:15 - Go down and make a coffee for Wendy who is up and getting ready for work.

6:25 - I receive a follow-up email from the PR manager at Brand Y.  Y for "why won't you write a paid piece about us?", which I have explained a few times - I don't write advertorials.  I realize my unwillingness to do so is probably holding me back financially, but a man must have a code ; )

6:45 - Email in-box pings, and... 

Good news! I am the winner of the Nigerian National Lottery! Maybe I'll buy Watch Time from Ebner so I can finally have my own magazine!

7:15 - Finally I decide that as no news is forthcoming, I will write an editorial type piece. The Grey Market is always good for a few hundred words, and is showing no sign of slowing down.  Oh, wait! A PR staffer from Brand X has sent me a personal email with a story about a watch event featuring their brand, in Marblehead, Massachusetts (which I could literally have walked to from my house as it is the next town over), with several "Important and Respected" watch journalists who were flown in from New York and Europe a few days previous. The PR person feels that as I live nearby it would be great to have a story about this wonderful and glamorous event (lots of swag, 4 star meals, etc.) from a local perspective! I take a beat, decide to ignore the irritation that essentially - this person wants me to write a pr piece about an event that I wasn't even invited to even though my attendance would have cost Brand X $0... and I simply don't reply.

8:00 - Kiss Wendy and wish her a good day as she heads out the door.

8:35 - Hastily showered and dressed, lunch made, it's off to work.

8:55 - Parking lot duty.  Where I work we have very limited parking, and as such the students have been informed that they cannot park in the back lot.  Needless to say, it is a game of cat and mouse as several try to slip in anyway to avoid parking on the street.  This, in turn, prevents other staff members and board members (who have a meeting today) from parking.  While being the Director of Adult Education and Workforce Development has its perks, playing parking lot "sizzler" is not one of them ; )

9:05 - Call with my contact at the Dept. of Education office.  Nothing major, clarifications regarding programming made, and all seems under control.

9:35 - Call from reception, someone is interested in learning English, could I come down and speak with them?

10:30 - Class break time.  I try to speak with each of the four teachers, make sure everything is under control.

10:45 - Back to work on the grant application.  It is due on Friday, signatures are needed from the boss, and I still need to nail down the budget.

12:15 - Text message from brand manager in Switzerland.  Could I recommend a sales manager in Florida.  I file that under "not pressing" and dive back into "grant writing land".

12:30 - Lunch with the teaching team.  Brief ad hoc meeting to review a few items coming up.

13:45 - Call from former student of mine who is interviewing for a job. Would I act as a reference?

2:30 - 30 minute walk around the surrounding area to clear the head.

3:25 - Personal email pops on my iPhone, and I see that the watch from Brand X that three of the big outlets already wrote about 2 days ago is suddenly now a press release for "the rest of us".  I delete the message.

4:15 - draft of the grant application is finally ready to be reviewed by the boss.

4:45 - The phone rings just as I am leaving the office.  Meeting arranged for Wednesday morning to review our proposed adult education program with a new partner one town over.

5:15 - Stop at Trader Joe's for dinner items.

5:35 - Feed the cats dinner, scoop out the litter box, make a coffee and fire-up the laptop.

5:55 - Complete text edit for one of the brands that I "side-hustle" for, and respond to a customer query for another.  Yes, the watch in question is available, yes, it does cost that much, no there will be no discount!

6:17 - Phone rings, it's Japan (not the whole country, but one of the brands with whom I have a relationship) with an urgent request for a special event, could I help organize it?

7:25 - Dinner is nearly ready, and Wendy arrives home after a long day.

9:26  - Story lined up for tomorrow involving a review of a new brand's watch.

10:25 - After 15 minutes of futility, I give up trying to read any more of the book I've been working on since Christmas.  Turn out the lights and off to sleep.  Tomorrow is another exciting day in watch media!

The Transfer Window Opens...

At Bremont -

Courtesy of Bremont

News reached the North Shore offices of Henki Time today (albeit via nontraditional channels) that Bremont, the brand that takes as much pains to establish their English bona-fides as Madonna pre Guy Ritchie split (I believe a commemorative coin of the Royal Coronation is included with the purchase of any new Bremont, but don't quote me on that) have announced their new CEO, semi-fresh off of a brief stint at the rehydrated HYT - Davide Cerrato.

And gentle readers, I feel it safe to say that this one was a wee bit of a head-scratcher. Here is what Bremont put out on its Facebook account:

We are delighted to announce that today, Bremont has appointed industry veteran Davide Cerrato as CEO and a member of the Board.
Bolstering Bremont’s in-house capabilities, Cerrato brings with him extensive experience in branding, product design and development, supply-chain management, and production. Cerrato has a proven track record, having worked with some of the most notable brands in the watch industry including Tudor, Montblanc and Panerai.

“I am incredibly excited to be joining Bremont. I have long admired what Nick and Giles have managed to achieve in a relatively short space of time. The brand has been on an amazing journey and I’m looking forward to working with the entire team to take it to the next level.” - Davide Cerrato.

And this all sounds quite lovely! But in fairness, there is more than a bit to unpack from this Gladstone bag. For most of us who write about this stuff, we did not come across Mr. Cerrato until the launch of the Tudor Black Bay about 10 years ago. And while the Black Bay was a big hit, it also has served to underscore the importance of thinking beyond the next year. I personally own a Black Bay x Rowing Blazers, but I also know from the number of Black Bay watches rolling in and out of pre-owned shops that this was a bit of a one-trick pony that while not having jumped the shark, has probably overplayed its hand. 

A move to Montblanc. And then rebirth at HYT of all places where, if we are being honest, was likely not an entirely satisfactory engagement for all involved.

With what London School of Economics trained economists would refer to as a "shit-ton" of cash, Bremont is set to do some big things. So we wish Mr. Cerrato God's Speed. 

The Anonimo Militare Chronograph Vintage Green

I don't really think that it would be fair to call what you are about to read a review. A review involves impartial assessment, and an unswayable adherence to sticking strictly to the facts at hand. But my relationship with Anonimo goes back to 2003 when I was a "young-ish" sales person at Tourneau San Francisco 1.0.

Back in those days, Anonimo (at least in as much as we at the store understood it) was comprised of a handful of models, some more desirable than others. These bore the legend "Opera Meccana". The most popular (at least in my experience) was the Millemetri -

Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

It was available in orange, black, beige, silver, and I believe one limited edition in blue. It was a fairly straightforward watch.

Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

Another model based on the Millemetri was the Wayfarer, which never met the popularity that I thought certain it would. It featured a second time zone and power reserve indicator. There was also the D-Date which was the same case, and crown configuration, but with the day of the week indicated just under the 6 o'clock marker, and the date just under the 12 o'clock marker. To the best of my knowledge we only sold a Millemetri (black dial) during my tenure. And the less said about the ill-fated Match Racing the better -

Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

The other hot topic was, of course, the Militare. But curious to relate (and again, my memory might be failing me here), I do not recall that we ever had one in stock. This (to me) was baffling as the US distributor lived just across the Bay Bridge. So ironically, although (to my knowledge) we were the sole sales point for Anonimo in the the San Francisco Bay area, we had a very, very small selection, most of it in less than great condition. The other problem we had in marketing and selling the Anonimo watches that we did actually have in stock was the truly less-than stellar after sales service being provided at Anonimo HQ in Florence. Watches would sit, and sit, and sit for months on end. When they finally arrived back? Human hairs on the dials, straps not fully attached, one instance where the case back had not been fully screwed down and in. It was frustrating. Because the watches themselves were really good looking! The Millemetri, the Militare, and for my money the most under-appreciated model Anonimo came out with at that time, the Centometri -

Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

But not unlike that beguiling guy or gal that you dated in university. You remember, they borrowed your car while you were out of town, racked up dozens of parking tickets, and managed to total it when they forgot to put the parking brake on and it rolled down the hill into a ravine. Every ounce of common sense told you to walk away, but there was just something about him or her that made it impossible for you to imagine even short-term life without them...but I digress. Unfortunately, the blasé approach to after sales service and some truly dubious design choices put paid to Anonimo 1.0. 

Fast forward about 9 years, and Anonimo had changed hands once or twice, and was being led by a Belgium based manager, who if memory serves was something of a big wheel in the diamond trade in Antwerp. Without going into too much detail about the heroes and zeros, the long and the short of it is that the company went into the Italian equivalent of receivership. And Anonimo continued to struggle to establish and maintain any sort of consistent brand identity and product line. The Belgians returned north, and Anonimo stumbled along for another year or so. 

Finally, a new owner came in, and the entire enterprise was moved lock, stock, and mainspring barrel to... Switzerland! And slowly, but surely some order emerged from the chaos. Under the present ownership, a very talented manager/ CEO has emerged, and her name is Carla Duarte. In the past year or two she and her team have steadily revised and improved the collection, synthesizing it down to 3 product families:

Epurato, Nautilo, and the main protagonist in today's post - the Militare. It bears mentioning that the Militare is the only surviving remnant from the earlier iterations of Anonimo.

While it has a long name that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, the MILITARE Chrono Vintage Green is a fairly easy to understand time machine. A bicompax, automatic chronograph (SW 300), the crown is at 12 o'clock with the two pushers right where you would normally expect to find them at 2 and 4. The case itself is reminiscent of its forbears. Cushion shaped, it measures 43.50 mm in diameter, with a height of 14.50 mm. It is crafted of 316L stainless steel with a display back. And this is the one thing that I would change. The Militare is not a "show-pony", and in truth? Neither is the movement and its finishing -

I mean, it's perfectly okay, but not in keeping with the tool watch ethos that the Militare otherwise exudes in excess (in a cool, but not overly cloying way).

The watch itself is very comfortable to wear, easy to read, and the chronograph works exactly as advertised. I am a particular fan of the chronograph push pieces (buttons).

Red to start and stop, black to return to the starting position.

And my review model came with an extra twist - a suede finish strap in addition to the nylon/leather that comes standard.

For me, this is the perfect counter-point to the watch. And it also harkens back to the early days of Anonimo when each watch (for the most part) came with a Kodiak strap. For those of you unfamiliar, allow me to inform you that for one brief moment in time, Anonimo offered the ULTIMATE water-resistant (I say water proof) leather strap ANYWHERE! This was absolutely an artisan type of product and unfortunately one that has been left behind. But to the owner / shot callers of Anonimo - if you are reading this? BRING BACK THE KODIAK STRAPS!

Okay, so again, you can't really call this a review. But what you can call this is an enthusiastic endorsement. If you are into the Italian military style of Panerai, Anonimo (1.0), and others that have come and gone in the past 20 years, this is a wonderful choice. Moreover, I would personally pass on the other 2 options in the Militare Chronograph (black with white sub dials and white with black sub dials). Everyone offers a color way like these - or at least they seem to. My other peeve is that these two models have the words "Militare Vintage" on the dial. It's sooooo vintage, we had to tell you so ; )

At CHF 3,890 this is a bargain. And on the Henki Time "Visceral" scale, it scores a 10+

As a longtime follower of Anonimo, I have been often more disappointed than pleased. But in recent years with the current management team that feeling of disappointment has turned to enthusiastic support! And I look forward to the next offerings coming from Anonimo!

Here are the pertinents:

Case

• Diameter 43.50 mm, height 14.50 mm, 316L steel, cushion shape
• Green khaki matte dial
• Water-resistant to 120 meters, 12 ATM
• Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Hands with Super-LumiNova®
• Crown with patented protection system at 12 o'clock
• Open case back

Movement

• Swiss Made SW 300, 13 ¼'''' self-winding, personalized Anonimo oscillating weight with a bi-compax DD2035M chronograph module developed exclusively for Anonimo
• Power reserve 42 hours minimum
• 49 jewels
• Frequency 28'800 A/h (4Hz)
• 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock and central second, small second counter at 3 o'clock

Strap

• Aged black Mohawk calf leather strap, or Aged maraca Mohawk calf leather strap, or Green khaki fabric strap