"When I want your opinion I'll give it to you"

We live in REALLY goofy times. Watch Town and the members of the Fourth and Fifth Estates who "cover" it have a rather curious relationship. For those desirous of a more close relationship, the more salubrious path appears to be deference, oftentimes bordering on the sycophantic.

Now for my sins, I have been declared excommunicado by Richemont, LVMH, and a liquorice assortment of brands that seem to spend more time thinking about me than I do about them. And some of these brands are downright antipathetic. Almost as if I'd run over their dog and they won't forget it. 

With about 6,000 visitors a day, I accept that Henki Time is not a big fish. And that's okay. But I also have to wonder what loose screw is rattling around the collective PR/Marketing braintrusts in some of these brands that they feel that all reviews, stories, and coverage must be glowing? And no, I am not feeling personally persecuted as I am not alone in this semi-isolation. Astrid Wendlandt (Miss Tweed), Gregory Pons (Business Montres) and others more celebrated than yours truly never seem to get invited to the ball (or more specifically the rather lavish press junkets, etc.,.), or even Watches and Wonders in some cases...

So what's brought all this up? I'm glad you asked! One notable thing happened recently that underscores the problematic rift that exists between some brands and the people who would like to cover them. 

Miss Tweed has been on the outs with Richemont for some time. Curious to relate? She owns stock in Richemont (albeit 1 share) and was recently denied admission to the shareholders meeting. Now let's think about this for a minute, Richemont has already cut her out of any possibility of trying to cover them on a first hand basis by denying her admittance to Watches and Wonders (which is pretty douchey in and of itself). But this latest move shows a certain level of pettiness that is hard to fathom. Now this is just little me, but if I had the resources that Richemont does, I would actually reach out to this person, hear them out, maybe have an actual conversation? The worst that could happen is that the journalist will feel respected for taking the time to ask questions (albeit some of them uncomfortable) and it might just lead to a burgeoning detente. 

But then again, what the hell do I know?

The Transfer Window is Swinging WIDE OPEN

At House of Brands...

Freshly returned from Geneva, let's just say the multiple reincarnations taking place at the freshly minted "House of Brands" was a topic much discussed by Watch Town's cognoscenti. Curious to relate - fan boys and girls had nothing but sunshine for these re-re-re-releases. Gallet had actually been operating, albeit poorly, up until very recently, so this cannot really be placed in the class of a UG lift.

For those of us in Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates, let's just say we are divided. Those who crave to maintain their invitations for comped travel with celebrity "squadies" will no doubt bark like the trained seals they have come to be, waiting to be fed the tasty sardine that is a luxury press junket. For the rest of us...

Well, while I do appreciate the operating policy of not intentionally trying to "yuck someone's yum", I have to look at this through a bigger lens. While Breitling is certainly a brand most folks are aware of, it continues to lean heavily on celebrity "chums of the brand" while the prices climb relentlessly upward. And many folks are starting to ask if the juice is worth the squeeze. I'm not saying it is, or is not. I have my eye firmly on getting a Breitling Montbrillant Eclipse so although I'm not a fan boy, I appreciate a fine watch when I see one.

So then we get onto the now churning debate as to whether or not Universal Geneve has been priced appropriately. Well, the word around the campfire in Geneva (at least as spoken by those not fearful of being uninvited next year) was a fairly firm no. But then in fairness, it is a deeper question as to whether or not we (the press and employees of other brands) are really in a demographic that will matter in terms of sales. Probably not.

As for Gallet? Not unlike poor Yorick, I knew it. It was a brand bought by someone who then hired someone else to run it. It produced (if memory serves) a chronograph or two that were priced at dollar amounts not usually requested without the aid of a pistol and a getaway car. One abortive BaselWorld appearance in old Hall 2 was the high point.

And so now we have another "squad" set to be unleashed to put this all in motion.

Per World Tempus, Mr. Kern shared the following -

https://en.worldtempus.com/article/new-watches/house-brands-executive-leadership-breitling-82548.html

In the context of the creation of our House of Brands which includes Breitling, newly launched Universal Genève and upcoming Gallet, we have decided to further strengthen our executive leadership team and organization to drive continuous strong development of all three brands.

As CEO of House of Brands, I welcome Jean-Marc Pontroué to support the development of House of Brands as newly appointed CEO of Breitling. With an extensive career in the luxury watch industry at Montblanc and as CEO of Roger Dubuis (since 2011) and Panerai (since 2018), he brings long-standing experience in retail, wholesale and marketing.

Grégory Bruttin continues to build on the momentum created by the recent successful brand relaunch of Universal Genève and is appointed its Managing Director.

Erwan Rossignol is preparing with his team the relaunch of Gallet by the end of August 2026 and is appointed its Managing Director.

Antoine Loron (34) assumes newly the role of President of Breitling USA and Canada and joins the executive leadership board of Breitling and its product committee. His appointment follows a fast-tracked sales career first in our headquarters and his outstanding entrepreneurial successes in the Caribbean and Latin America. He will build on the strong foundations achieved by current President USA and Canada, Thierry Prissert, who has driven exceptional growth over the past fifteen years by successfully elevating our wholesale channel, establishing an extensive boutique network and securing our global NFL partnership. Thierry Prissert will continue to support Breitling’s brand expansion and the introduction of Universal Genève and Gallet in the American market and transition to chairman of the House of Brands USA board.

Renato Meier, currently Marketing Director of Breitling USA and Canada, having achieved strong momentum in marketing activations in the region, succeeds Antoine Loron as Managing Director of Breitling LATAM.

Together with our excellent current executive leadership team, we are well positioned to develop the full potential of our House of Brands. All changes will take effect in May 2026.

Georges Kern, CEO House of Brands.

As with all comings and goings in Watch Town, we won't really know anything until the dust settles, but we wish Mr. Kern and his squad good luck and Godspeed.

Geneva, Baby!

Finishing up my packing, and heading to Logan to catch the next hop to Zuric, then Geneva.

Anyone who will be in town, please come and see us (Ollech & Wajs) at Time to Watches from Tuesday through Sunday.

It's on like Donkey-Kong!

The Transfer Window Has Opened -

At Corum...

Courtesy of Corum

This is not exactly "new" news, but relevant as we are on the cusp of the Geneva shows. The talk around the campfires on the outskirts of Watch Town is not as rosy as anyone would like it to be. So let's shake the Magic 8 Ball to see if we can get some clarity on this murky situation.

Will there be more attempted management buyouts?

So there you have it!

Watch Town is at a crossroads. And I am quite certain that the Watches and Wonders braintrust are starting to get the squirts. Attendance is already in question, a few not insignificant brands have decided to take a pass this year, and whether or not the orders will be rolling in? Let's just say the Magic 8 Ball got this one right ; )

Whether Lambert will succeed in buying out his employer and whether more brands will follow suit remains to be seen. One thing is painfully, abundantly clear - the market is getting tight.

So Geneva, here we come!

The Transfer Window Has Opened - and A Great Loss to Watch Time

I have known Roger Ruegger for more than a minute. Our paths first crossed when I was working for DOXA North America (Synchron) and we got to know each other a little better when I crossed the aisle and started Tempus Fugit working in both the Fourth and Fifth Estates. Roger was (and continues to be) a keen fan of diving watches, and was a friend and supporter of smaller, independent brands. His approach to dive watch coverage pre-Watch Time was extremely egalitarian, and merit based. The name on the dial was not necessarily as important as what went into the watch itself. Many now, more established brands owe a great debt to Roger's enthusiastic support of their efforts.

Word has reached the North Shore offices of the "Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit" that Mr. Ruegger will be moving on from Watch Time. And this, for me, marks a bit of a turning point in Watch Town. Way back when (2011 - 2014) there was a bit more camaraderie amongst the media outlets (with a few notable exceptions). We all had day jobs and we all paid our own way to BaselWorld. While I wouldn't say we were all "besties", there was not the same need to "flex" as there seems to be now.  Some of the big dogs I remember when they were wee pups that still peed on the carpet. And this is what has set Roger apart. Even after landing what is considered one of the most coveted jobs in watch media, he still made a point of maintaining relationships, never tried to "dk" (don't know) people.

Obviously change is inevitable, and following a prolific 10 years at the helm of Watch Time, Roger is leaving the party while it is still full, so I say good for him!

Whoever the next person is to slot into the role, they will have some big swim fins (shoes) to fill ; )

Bravo Roger on a job very, very well done, and wishing you the best of success moving forward.

Talk Like A Watch Pro - The Big Comeback!

Okay, it's been a minute, but after putting on The HYPE a few months back, I am happy (and you are no-doubt relieved) to know that Watch Town still has the ability to generate its very own unique lexicon.

I will be providing a refresher, but first? Some new bon mots that will have you talking and feeling just like the big boys and girls in Watch Town -

"Deep South"

The direction retail prices go when your production exceeds your sales actuals by 500% or so. We all get these emails - "Last chance for huge savings!" A multitude of reasons are offered, but long story short? Someone over-spent their allowance and mom and dad aren't happy about it. As that other great commentator on the watch business (Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko) would remind us - 

"The key to the game is capital reserves. If you don't have enough, you can't piss in the tall weeds with the big dogs."

"Nickeled for a dime" i.e. someone sold you a nickel for a dime

It's an expensive proposition to participate in a watch show, particularly in NYC. Approximately $8,000 USD will get you enough space to place a tray full of watches on a "modest" sized table while half of humanity lazily strolls past your booth. This, of course, is great news for alternative shows...

"New investment"

Someone's buying, someone else is selling. No more, no less.

"Nobody likes to hear that their baby is ugly"
Translation?  When you are asked - "What do you think of our novelties?"  You are really being asked - "Could you please offer an affirmation that this watch is great?"

"I'mGonna'stan"
A fictional country that is more a place of the imagination than an actual reality. I'mGonna'stan is a magical place where everything will happen soon, like tomorrow, and tomorrow never arrives.  

"Pick Your Poison"
Translation - you're screwed either way, and I don't really care.

"My friend"
Translation - You fucking asshole.

"You're just like the Tin-Man"
Translation - You've got no heart.  Usually reserved for sales managers just before they are "freed up to pursue new professional opportunities".

"We don't cover brands like that"
Translation - Pay me, and then maybe we'll cover you.

"Our writers are very busy, but a sure way to promote your brand is through a sponsored post!"

See above.

"We're a small, independent brand and can't afford advertising"
Translation - My best friend's spouse works for another media outlet and we already pay them. We're not going to pay you now, or ever, but you should still make time to cover us because, you never know ; )

"We don't make any decisions regarding marketing, sales or advertising during (insert BaselWorld, SIHH, JCK, etc.), but shoot me an email in a few weeks and we can follow-up then."
Translation - Of course we make decisions at BaselWorld, SIHH, JCK, etc., we just have no desire to listen to, consider or entertain any proposal that you might be offering.  But! Here's a nice paper tote bag and an outlandishly heavy catalog (filled with poor spelling and grammatical errors)!  Thanks for stopping by!

Fall Repeat - The Dunning - Kruger Effect

Like any crisis, COVID-19 has laid bare a lot of realities that were probably always there, but that could continue on until external events made it impossible for them to remain unacknowledged.

For those of you unfamiliar, the Dunning-Kruger effect, its name is derived from a study conducted by David Dunning and Justin Kruger back just before the turn of the century (1999). The study exposed a very interesting paradox - in several instances average performing people tended to place themselves in the upper echelons in terms of performance. Curious to relate? In many instances, high performing people tended to down-play their abilities, ranking themselves lower on the scale than their abilities justified.

For those of you who are more visual (and enjoy video over text) here is a fun look at the Dunning-Kruger effect courtesy of Trace Dominguez and After Skool -

Cognitive Bias exists everywhere, and we all struggle with it on many levels.  The recent devolution of BaselWorld into a full-blown 3-ring circus is a great example.  And I want to jump right out of the gate and make clear that BaselWorld is only one of the Ringleaders of this train wreck.  

In Tent Number 1:

Remember the bold words of one mayor of Watch Town who insisted that his brand was special, and didn't actually need a show?  And then like a carpet bagger tried to ease south to Geneva to announce (what in hindsight) was a pretty ham-fisted attempt to grab some press ink with some other like minded mayors for a "mini-show" of carefully curated brands?  (editor's note: along with the use of "my friend" and "timepiece" could we agree to ban the term "curated"?  It's complete and utter bullshit.)  

In Tent Number 2:

If Animal Farm were ever to be re-told with denizens of Watch Town as the protagonists, the advent of the FHH show would be familiar.

George Orwell Animal Farm

Here's the thing, you don't tug on Superman's cape.  It was pretty foolhardy of the BaselWorld organizers to assume that they could try to give Rolex and Patek an "Atomic Wedgie" -

Courtesy of the Simpsons

Now I cannot claim to know or understand every thought process or motivation that runs through the storied hallways of Big Green in Geneva.  I respect my place in the hierarchy ; )

But what I can say is this - while Rolex, Tudor, Patek and Chanel had every right to pick up their tents and move them south, let's not misconstrue that as a blow for the Proletariat of Watch Town.  The "letter of secession" makes it pretty clear that these four brands made their decision based on what would work for them.  Several other not-so-fancy brands may not be invited to join the party.

And ladies and gentlemen, train your eyes to the center ring here in the Big Top!:
BaselWorld was clearly living in a different reality than a lot of the larger brands that were willing to continue to pay the price to be there.  And truthfully?  These are some of the real victims in this three-ring shit-show.  If you are a Richemont brand?  You are safe, Watches and Wonders has you covered.  If you are viewed "luxurious and exclusive enough"?  Not a problem, FHH will certainly deem you worthy and you can join them.  But what about some of those other big, notable, and dare I say it - POPULAR brands that actually sell a LOT of watches?  Where do they get to go?  

You get the idea.

Now I still like my personal crack-pot theory that Hayek the Younger has been sitting back in his stronghold in the Biel/Bienne hinterlands, biding his time and waiting to come back to BaselWorld. But then again, I have frequently been guilty of the Dunning-Kruger Bias ; )

A New Watch Material!

With the now "new and improved" tariffs in effect for Swiss goods, I wanted to take this opportunity to introduce a new watch making material now in favor with several US brand representatives and agents largely dependent upon selling Swiss watches in the US. You're no doubt familiar with stainless steel, gold, platinum... allow me to introduce you to irony!

Courtesy of Black Adder Quotes - https://blackadderquotes.com/

I witnessed a curious thing happening on "Liberation Day" at the Geneva shows. Several well-fed, well-groomed, semi-closeted Make America Great enthusiasts got a particularly cold cup of coffee while roaming the halls of Geneva. The administration that they unfailingly supported had essentially jammed a rather nasty implement up their collective bank accounts without the benefit of a romantic word or lubricant. And it was a curious thing. Grown-assed men were literally pooping in their tighty (suddenly not-so-tidy) whities, lamenting how unfair it was! This was their livelihood for goodness sakes! How could this happen to them?!?

But another funny thing happened, a few weeks later it seemed that all was well! It was all just a bluff! Let unbridled enthusiasm, and even possible avarice reign! And these same folks who were sharing their misgivings about their choices last November on that April day were suddenly back on their soap boxes (via LinkedIn) extolling the virtues of the Presidential administration and flatly criticizing anyone who disagreed with them. 

Fast forward to this past Friday. It seems that the old adage about fool me once should be changed to fool me multiple times... they have yet again changed their collective tune for the third time - give me strength!

It is clear that these "summer soldiers" and "sunshine patriots" (thank you, Thomas Paine) didn't know that the discomfort they felt on Liberation Day was nothing compared to what they are feeling now that the US government has decided to make good on the not-insignificant tariffs for Switzerland, in particular as it applies to Swiss watches.

To be clear, this is not intended to be a political post, favoring one party over the other. But it does serve to underscore an important thing that a lot of these guys seem to have forgotten. This is a relationship business. This is why most folks in the business pre-2016 tended to keep their political views to themselves and not admonish people on LinkedIn for having opposing political views - and this happened and continues to happen on both sides, to be fair. Nobody has a monopoly on self-righteous indignation ; )

Even though it is transactional relationship business any relationship, even a transactional one, requires some level of sincerity. When you blow in the wind to suit what is expedient for your personal bank account? It's hard to have much respect. You should always have your own beliefs, you should not feel the need to have to please anyone but yourself, regardless of which side of the political spectrum you inhabit. But don't constantly modify these (oftentimes loudly stated) opinions to suit whatever situation is going to benefit your bank account only to change back with each new news cycle. It cheapens an already cheapened business. We don't have to agree on everything, but just be honest with yourselves, and be consistent. Because if you can't be honest with yourselves, how can we, your customers, expect you to be honest with us?

This IS NOT A Story About Watches

Okay, maybe sort of... at least watches are involved.

Regular readers will know that I am about as big a fan of Watches and Wonders as root canal work sans anesthetic. But this year I went to Geneva to help out at the Ollech & Wajs booth -

I also wanted to check out some new brands, and possibly drum up a little business. That was, at least, the plan.

The plan included some other stops:

Bern for half a day (afternoon) and night, La Chaux-de-Fonds for lunch on Sunday, and a night at one of my favorite hotels - the Ruby Mimi in Zurich. And finally a treat for myself (assuming it was still available) at Jenni Uhren.

As per usual, I worked all day and then headed to Logan to catch the overnight to Zurich. Zurich connected to Geneva (a quick hop), and I grabbed my bag and found my way to the Villa Sarasin where the Time to Watches show was being held.

In the process I passed by the Watches and Wonders compound. And honestly? Now that I've seen it up-close and personal? I still don't get it. Clearly a lot of money was (and will continue to be) spent. And I felt a bit bad for the staff stationed outside, wearing something that resembled surgical scrubs in various hues. Curious to relate? A few special delegates were apparently too "special" to walk the 100 meters to the entry way and were driven. Which ordinarily wouldn't bother me, apart from nearly being run over...

Anyway, the show was good, but hectic. I ran into A LOT of old friends and colleagues and got down to work. The first day was a blur, a quick sausage with fries with my boss, and I found my way to the train bound for my hotel in Annemasse, France.

And then I got off the train. I stopped into the convenience store for some water, and plugging in the directions to my phone, started to walk, dragging my suitcase through what seemed like a semi-destroyed town. It was just after 10:00 PM and I'm not going to lie, I was starting to get a wee bit nervous. I was starting to have this bad feeling that people would be reading about me as a cautionary tale vis-a-vis the dangers of not looking for a taxi in a strange town after dark...

I got to my hotel, got checked in, fell into bed and was asleep before my head hit the pillow. And then I woke up... 

The sun was shining, and I was reminded of one important travel rule - never judge a place until you've seen it in daylight ; )

Feeling somewhat sheepish about my earlier trepidation, I followed my normal routine:

When you arrive in a new place during the night - Get a good night's sleep, enjoy a good breakfast, wander the town and let yourself get lost, try to use the local language, and don't be afraid to ask a stranger for directions.

And as per the condition of the town? It seems that nearly all of the streets had been ripped up in preparation for tram lines that would be installed. In the bright light of day it made perfect sense, but at 10:15 PM it gave a totally (in hindsight, false) impression. Annemasse is a beautiful town that I hope to spend more time in next year.

And the fair continued for the next few days, I saw some cool stuff -

And in between? I caught up with people I hadn't seen for years, promoted my book, and wolfed down lunch. And an important rule about working watch shows - allow flexibility in all things, but lunch is the one thing you can't compromise on.

And Saturday rolled around, and it was time to head home. I had picked up a watch that I had been admiring, and started packing up my bags, consolidating things into my main suitcase. I turned to see that someone had grabbed one of my bags and had started heading up the stairs with it. So I left my things and called out to him. He turned to look at me, and then turned back continuing to walk, only faster! I called out again. He shrugged, turned around and handed me back the bag. I went back downstairs and zipped up my bag, and left the Villa heading for the train station. My intention was to be on a train that would deliver me to Bern around 8:00 PM. Plenty of time for dinner and a walk around the city. I did my usual mental inventory, and just in front of the Palexpo I froze... I didn't have the bag with my new watch! I sprinted back towards the Villa - pulling a now very heavy suitcase, and absolutely sweating through my clothes. I dashed down the stairs and the bag with the watch was nowhere in sight. I went down to the area where we had been showing and informed both my boss and the folks at Elka that I couldn't find the bag with my new watch, and that it might have been stolen. I ask them to keep an eye out just in case, and pretty dejectedly, I headed back up to grab my suitcase and limp back to the train station. I felt like an idiot. My suspicion was that the kid had tried to distract me by grabbing one bag while someone else took my new watch. I had been played, like some rube in the big city. Hakim El Kadiri, the owner of Elka had followed me out, and like a patient parent trying to deal with a child mid-meltdown asked me -

"Did you check your suitcase?"

I took a beat, flipped my suitcase over and opened it up, and there near the top was my Elka watch, still in the bag. I sighed, looked at Hakim like that same mid-meltdown child who has just now realized that the world isn't really ending, and meekly said thank you. He smiled, wished me a safe trip, and headed back down to the show. 

I now double stepped it towards the train station, because I still had a chance to get the train I was hoping for. I got to the ticket machine and...

My bank card wasn't working. I tried another machine... no joy. I rooted through my wallet and gathered an assortment of Euros and Swiss Francs, and managed to cobble together enough coins and cash to buy a ticket to Bern! And... I missed the train by about 1 minute.

I waited the extra 30 - 40 minutes, got on the next thing steaming north and reminded myself about the importance of not panicking, keeping my cool, and enjoying the moment. And to this end I was truly enjoying the ride, looking out at the scenery. We had been underway a full 20 minutes or so, and just outside of Nyon, the train came to a stop. And this part I'll never forget. If you've never taken one of the main trains on the SBB system, allow me to inform you that there are typically three languages used (unless you are in Ticino / Lugano where it will be four) in this order:

French or German is first and/or second, depending upon the region. In this case French was first. But this next part was curious. The second announcement was not in German but rather in English. A rather shaky young female voice informed us that there had been an accident, and a person had been hit by the train. She couldn't tell us how long we would be there as it had to be investigated. And as the hours ticked by, first police, then engineers, and finally medical personnel arrived. The fact that the doctors arrived last, and seemed in no great hurry made it clear that someone had likely been killed.

Now think about this for a minute, this was in a semi-rural area, the train tracks were in a bit of a gulley with high embankments on either side - meaning that there was no reason for someone to be anywhere near where the train went through.

I texted my boss, I called my wife (Wendy) and let them know what has happened. And if I'm honest? I felt like I'd been hit square between the eyes with a two-by-four. The entire folly of my two panicky presumptions had been laid bare. And I also took that moment to remind myself how lucky I was, and that not everyone else was as fortunate. I realized that life, writ large, is fickle and fragile and pretty unfair.

Nearly two hours later, the train moved forward, but only to another stop. And then the next dominoes started to fall as train traffic had now backed up with hundreds of people waiting on the platforms of a small town between Geneva and Lausanne. Another 40 minutes later and the train finally arrived. We pulled into Bern around 10:45 or so. And I was fairly certain that dinner was going to be an impossibility. Yes, first world problems.

But then my luck changed.

Young Boys Bern had apparently had a big match that evening that ran late, and the station was flooded with black and yellow jerseys. And accordingly, most of the restaurants in the train station had stayed open. So I treated myself to what I seem to remember was called an Kebab Orientale. 

Spoiler alert - it was AWESOME! 

With my dinner in hand, I made my way to the exit, and tried to find my way to the hotel. A very kind person confirmed my directions and I made my way to there -

I enjoyed a lovely glass of wine and had a good chat with the night manager. 

I stayed up a bit later than usual, wrote some letters and journal entries. And climbing into bed, I closed my eyes and took a moment. I was at once relieved, sad, happy, introspective, embarrassed and ultimately grateful. I realized that we are, all of us out there in the world, trying not just to survive. So many are searching to find meaning, to find connection. 

To find joy. 

I close my eyes with the promise to do better. 

La Chaux-de-Fonds and Zurich were still ahead, and as my old father always used to say -

"Things will look much brighter in the morning!"

Stay tuned!

The Rebirth of BaselWorld?

So... before we go too far down the rabbit hole, a simple statement - 

Watches and Wonders? You can have it. No interest, no desire on my part to participate. It is a towering testament to greed and hubris. And curious enough, in reviewing some of the conversations I had with some of my more well-heeled colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estates, it seems that the policies and enforcement tactics governing the press (and their access to covering Watches and Wonders) are not entirely dissimilar to those utilized by the Trump White House...

Okay, so we've got that out of the way ; )

Let's move on to Time To Watches. I had the opportunity to experience both sides of the table this year assisting at a booth, as well as making the rounds to some of the other brand's set-ups. Now I have gone on record as saying that this is perhaps one of the worst-ever names for a watch show. I stand by that statement. But this year I got to see something that gave me hope for watch events in Switzerland.

The location was quite good - just behind the Palexpo center. This meant that it was easily accessible to both enthusiasts and journalists. Well, enthusiasts anyway. It would seem that Watches and Wonders subsidizes the travel of several journalists (airfare, hotel, etc.) and therefore they (Watches and Wonders) govern what these journalists can, and can't "attend" while in Geneva. Sort of a diamond-studded, golden leash ; )

Despite this challenge, there were a LOT of independent journalists, vloggers, bloggers, etc. who found their way to the show, and their energy and enthusiasm was clear to see. The only piece that I (as a journalist) didn't agree with was that there appeared to be one or two "marquee" press folks who clearly had been recruited by the show management's PR wing to be there (and possibly paid?). It was slightly reminiscent of BaselWorld back in 2011 when a royal or military strong man (read President for life) of a former Soviet republic breezed through The Palace hall complete with security retinue. 

Now don't get me wrong, I am all for treating the press with courtesy and giving them a warm welcome. But that means ALL OF THE PRESS, not only individuals who were referred to as "Very Important Guests" by staffers at the show as they ushered them ahead of other attendees, jumping taxi lines and attempting to hijack Ubers because they are apparently not just Very Important Guests, but apparently more important than anyone else, and haven't fgured out public transport in Geneva even though they've been attending the shows for more than ten years straight. 

But let's talk about what was right about the show. It was accessible, it was open, there was a good mix of brands, and all of the brand representatives seemed genuinely happy to be there. And more than that, there was a real sense of camaraderie amongst the brand representatives. That made a very big difference, and harkened back to the positive aspects of BaselWorld before the final curtain came down in 2019. It was actually fun to be there. Yes, it was work. But it was work that was enjoyable.

So to the organizers of Time to Watches - a job well done. An enjoyable event and a real opportunity to bring more brands out in the open. My only suggestion as it pertains to celebrity / VIP journalists? Slow your roll. It's only a step away from the mother who ties a pork chop around her son's neck to get family dog to play with him ; )

Reheated Leftovers - I Could Do It Better Myself - The Volunteer Media

 I Could Do It Better Myself - The Volunteer Media - An Update From Henki

I wrote this back when I still owned and operated Tempus Fugit. A fair bit has happened in that time. I opted out of a job with a brand, I sold Tempus Fugit to someone who handed it to someone else, and it now appears to not be publishing anything, I accepted the job I have now which is working for MassHire - we help people find jobs and train for new careers. It is very satisfying work albeit with very long hours. Owing to this the publication pace and nature of Henki Time is not as manic as others. With that said, I still feel I have something to say, and this piece is one that I think still rings true. So brand owners and brand managers - don't forget to support the volunteer press. 

Even when we say things that might cut a bit too close to the bone ; )

A much younger Henki teaching English in Villa do Conde Portugal in 1995. You might recognize the gentleman on the far right as the current Secretary General of the United Nations.

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Volunteer Media - An Update From Henki

Despite what some folks think, the majority of the press covering the watch business these days is of a voluntary nature.  This is largely the result of brands cutting advertising budgets, and people going back to former occupations, getting married, or finding better ways to earn a living and spend their free (and not so free) time.

So gentle reader, an inside look at a day in the life of Henki -

5:30 - Whether I like it or not, Tallulah (the older cat and Executive Publisher) is awake and waiting to be fed.  Sabrina (the younger cat and Editor in Chief) is waiting as well.  I head downstairs, turn up the heat in the house, and feed the cats.  I gulp down my morning tablets with a glass of water, have the first of several espressos and head back upstairs to the office.

5:45 - emails reviewed, and...
Not a sausage! 
Not only has watch advertising money dried up, watch brands are producing fewer and fewer models, and some have made their PR functions redundant.  News is scant, and unlike some of my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate, I prefer not to manufacture it.

6:15 - Go down and make a coffee for Wendy who is up and getting ready for work.

6:25 - I receive a follow-up email from the PR manager at Brand Y.  Y for "why won't you write a paid piece about us?", which I have explained a few times - I don't write advertorials.  I realize my unwillingness to do so is probably holding me back financially, but a man must have a code ; )

6:45 - Email in-box pings, and... 

Good news! I am the winner of the Nigerian National Lottery! Maybe I'll buy Watch Time from Ebner so I can finally have my own magazine!

7:15 - Finally I decide that as no news is forthcoming, I will write an editorial type piece. The Grey Market is always good for a few hundred words, and is showing no sign of slowing down.  Oh, wait! A PR staffer from Brand X has sent me a personal email with a story about a watch event featuring their brand, with several "Important and Respected" watch journalists who were flown in from New York and Europe a few days previous. The PR person feels that it would be great to have a story about this wonderful and glamorous event (lots of swag, 4 star meals, etc.) that I wasn't even invited to! I take a deep breath and decide it's easiest to not reply.

8:00 - Kiss Wendy and wish her a good day as she heads out the door.

8:35 - Hastily showered and dressed, lunch made, it's off to work.

8:55 - Parking lot duty.  Where I work we have very limited parking, and as such the students have been informed that they cannot park in the back lot.  Needless to say, it is a game of cat and mouse as several try to slip in anyway to avoid parking on the street.  This, in turn, prevents other staff members and board members (who have a meeting today) from parking.  While being the Director of Adult Education and Workforce Development has its perks, playing parking lot "sizzler" is not one of them ; )

9:05 - Call with my contact at the Dept. of Education office.  Nothing major, clarifications regarding programming made, and all seems under control.

9:35 - Call from reception, someone is interested in learning English, could I come down and speak with them?

10:30 - Class break time.  I try to speak with each of the four teachers, make sure everything is under control.

10:45 - Back to work on the grant application.  It is due on Friday, signatures are needed from the boss, and I still need to nail down the budget.

12:15 - Text message from brand manager in Switzerland.  Could I recommend a sales manager in Florida.  I file that under "not pressing" and dive back into "grant writing land".

12:30 - Lunch with the teaching team.  Brief ad hoc meeting to review a few items coming up.

13:45 - Call from former student of mine who is interviewing for a job. Would I act as a reference?

2:30 - 30 minute walk around the surrounding area to clear the head.

3:25 - Personal email pops on my iPhone, and I see that the watch from Brand X that three of the big outlets already wrote about 2 days ago is suddenly now a press release for "the rest of us".  I delete the message.

4:15 - draft of the grant application is finally ready to be reviewed by the boss.

4:45 - The phone rings just as I am leaving the office.  Meeting arranged for Wednesday morning to review our proposed adult education program with a new partner one town over.

5:15 - Stop at Trader Joe's for dinner items.

5:35 - Feed the cats dinner, scoop out the litter box, make a coffee and fire-up the laptop.

5:55 - Complete text edit for one of the brands that I "side-hustle" for, and respond to a customer query for another.  Yes, the watch in question is available, yes, it does cost that much, no there will be no discount!

6:17 - Phone rings, it's Japan (not the whole country, but one of the brands with whom I have a relationship) with an urgent request for a special event, could I help organize it?

7:25 - Dinner is nearly ready, and Wendy arrives home after a long day.

9:26  - Story lined up for tomorrow involving a review of a new brand's watch.

10:25 - After 15 minutes of futility, I give up trying to read any more of the book I've been working on since Christmas.  Turn out the lights and off to sleep.  Tomorrow is another exciting day in watch media!

The Luminor Destro Otto Giorni

From Panerai -

Courtesy of Panerai

So it goes without saying that while my first (intentional) horological purchase was from Omega, and my first true watch obsession was the Vulcain Cricket, a solid third place was Panerai. And in fairness, this was Panerai writ large. 

 

Courtesy of Panerai

I bought my first (and to date, only) Panerai when I was working at Tourneau in San Francisco. I say first because I do hope to have another one - serious negotiations are currently being held at the highest level with my piggy bank.

That Panerai was something special, if not perfect. It was a B-series, hand-winding Luminor. I had bought it as a pre-owned item while working for Torneau in San Francisco. After about 3 weeks of wearing, the crown stripped and it had to go back for service. Thus a painful month or two was spent anxiously waiting for its return. In the end we were reunited, but as I have learned through the paths my life has traveled, nothing is necessarily permanent. Although no longer with me, that Luminor still ocupies a space (and absence) both physically and emotionally. And just when I thought I was over this heartbreak, Panerai comes out with something that has stirred up that longing.

Courtesy of Panerai

The Luminor Destro Otto Giorni is something worth obsessing over. It ticks the old-school Paneristi boxes in that it is of stainless steel and measures 44 mm in diameter. But then, to quote that other great commentator on watches, James Brown, Panerai "takes it to the bridge"!

For those unfamiliar, per the Planetary Group:

Fans of James Brown will recognize the phrase “Take it to the bridge!” from a few of his recordings and many of his live performances. For James Brown, the bridge is an instrumental section that features a new melody and rhythmic line, such as in “Sex Machine”. It creates a break for the listeners’ ears, a new context that freshens up the original riff when the band returns to it, and sometimes makes space for James Brown to dance.

And this is just what Panerai has done! They've taken the original Luminor, and coaxed something special out of it.

First? The decision to go "destro" (that's left for you, and I don't think it's political). It adds that special bit of "Panesequa". But then we get to the movement, and the unfortunate fate of my B-series winding crown comes to mind. Every day you must unscrew the screw-down crown to wind the watch, then screw it back down. This causes wear. Moreover every time you do so, you give more opportunties for your watch's arch nemeses to invade the inner sactum - grit and moisture being the chief offenders. But what if you could go eight days between unscrewing, winding, and screwing back down? Or to use the Italian - Via otto giorni? Sounds pretty great to me.

So let's get down to details - the Luminor Destro Otto Giorni is not an impulse buy, priced at $8,100. But then again, when you consider just what $8,100 is getting you, it seems in line with what other brands have going in that price category. But I would go further - there are very few brands out there with an 8-day movement. And about that movement? It is hand-winding (mechanical) the P.5000 calibre, boasting a power reserve of 8 days.

For myself? I'm obsessed, thank you very much!

Going Back To Go Forward - Tempus Fugit!

Four words I swore I'd never say in relation to watch show attendance -

"I'll be in Geneva!"

Now before you call the "thought police" that manipulate the guest list at Watches and Wonders, relax - they still have not invited me ; )

I will be working (to quote that other great commentator on the watch industry, Dolly Parton) 

"Two doors down."

Technically one door down if I've understood the map provided by Time to Watches. I will be working the booth at Ollech & Wajs, so if you find yourself in Geneva, come by to see us!

And I have to say that I am feeling rather enthusiastic about watches again - and that is a bit of a welcome feeling. And that feeling brought me back to this time machine -

And yes, there is a story to it. And like any good story that I have about Watch Town, discovering cool watches, and meeting new friends, it's a story that involves Roderich Hess. Although it's been (I believe) 7 years now, parts of it seem like yesterday. Auguste Reymond was still in its birthplace of Tramelan. Lorenz Aebischer was still in charge, and there was a real feeling to the brand. The building was very, very cool but definitely in need of some attention / refurbishment. Two watch makers were on site along with administration folks. It was a humble, honest and sincere enterprise. 

Well, that was then. It is inevitable that things can and must inevitably change. Sometimes for the better, sometimes not so much. You can't live in the past, but by that same token you should not forget it, or try to ignore it.

In the end, Auguste Reymond went to new owners, and moved down the hill to the Biel/Bienne suburbs. But I remember it for what it was, something special.

A watch ultimately is a thing, an object. But like so many things that come and go in our lives, this watch for me is also a talisman. It reminds me of the importance of friendship, of commitment, and of working together - just the way I saw Lorenz and his team work together in sometimes overwhelming circumstances. 

I was passionate then. Somehow over the last few years that passion was lost. But oddly enough, an upcoming trip to Geneva seems to be just the tonic to put the bounce back in my step!

So as you go about your day today, pick a time machine to wear (if you have a collection) that reminds you of something special, something that will inspire you, something that will make you smile.

And remember - although nothing lasts forever, your memories are yours for keeps!

Tempus Fugit -

Henki