The Transfer Window is Swinging WIDE OPEN

At House of Brands...

Freshly returned from Geneva, let's just say the multiple reincarnations taking place at the freshly minted "House of Brands" was a topic much discussed by Watch Town's cognoscenti. Curious to relate - fan boys and girls had nothing but sunshine for these re-re-re-releases. Gallet had actually been operating, albeit poorly, up until very recently, so this cannot really be placed in the class of a UG lift.

For those of us in Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates, let's just say we are divided. Those who crave to maintain their invitations for comped travel with celebrity "squadies" will no doubt bark like the trained seals they have come to be, waiting to be fed the tasty sardine that is a luxury press junket. For the rest of us...

Well, while I do appreciate the operating policy of not intentionally trying to "yuck someone's yum", I have to look at this through a bigger lens. While Breitling is certainly a brand most folks are aware of, it continues to lean heavily on celebrity "chums of the brand" while the prices climb relentlessly upward. And many folks are starting to ask if the juice is worth the squeeze. I'm not saying it is, or is not. I have my eye firmly on getting a Breitling Montbrillant Eclipse so although I'm not a fan boy, I appreciate a fine watch when I see one.

So then we get onto the now churning debate as to whether or not Universal Geneve has been priced appropriately. Well, the word around the campfire in Geneva (at least as spoken by those not fearful of being uninvited next year) was a fairly firm no. But then in fairness, it is a deeper question as to whether or not we (the press and employees of other brands) are really in a demographic that will matter in terms of sales. Probably not.

As for Gallet? Not unlike poor Yorick, I knew it. It was a brand bought by someone who then hired someone else to run it. It produced (if memory serves) a chronograph or two that were priced at dollar amounts not usually requested without the aid of a pistol and a getaway car. One abortive BaselWorld appearance in old Hall 2 was the high point.

And so now we have another "squad" set to be unleashed to put this all in motion.

Per World Tempus, Mr. Kern shared the following -

https://en.worldtempus.com/article/new-watches/house-brands-executive-leadership-breitling-82548.html

In the context of the creation of our House of Brands which includes Breitling, newly launched Universal Genève and upcoming Gallet, we have decided to further strengthen our executive leadership team and organization to drive continuous strong development of all three brands.

As CEO of House of Brands, I welcome Jean-Marc Pontroué to support the development of House of Brands as newly appointed CEO of Breitling. With an extensive career in the luxury watch industry at Montblanc and as CEO of Roger Dubuis (since 2011) and Panerai (since 2018), he brings long-standing experience in retail, wholesale and marketing.

Grégory Bruttin continues to build on the momentum created by the recent successful brand relaunch of Universal Genève and is appointed its Managing Director.

Erwan Rossignol is preparing with his team the relaunch of Gallet by the end of August 2026 and is appointed its Managing Director.

Antoine Loron (34) assumes newly the role of President of Breitling USA and Canada and joins the executive leadership board of Breitling and its product committee. His appointment follows a fast-tracked sales career first in our headquarters and his outstanding entrepreneurial successes in the Caribbean and Latin America. He will build on the strong foundations achieved by current President USA and Canada, Thierry Prissert, who has driven exceptional growth over the past fifteen years by successfully elevating our wholesale channel, establishing an extensive boutique network and securing our global NFL partnership. Thierry Prissert will continue to support Breitling’s brand expansion and the introduction of Universal Genève and Gallet in the American market and transition to chairman of the House of Brands USA board.

Renato Meier, currently Marketing Director of Breitling USA and Canada, having achieved strong momentum in marketing activations in the region, succeeds Antoine Loron as Managing Director of Breitling LATAM.

Together with our excellent current executive leadership team, we are well positioned to develop the full potential of our House of Brands. All changes will take effect in May 2026.

Georges Kern, CEO House of Brands.

As with all comings and goings in Watch Town, we won't really know anything until the dust settles, but we wish Mr. Kern and his squad good luck and Godspeed.

The Emperor is Butt Naked

All the talk this AM seems to be about the re/launch of Universal Genève. And let's just say, it's not all good...

Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb

On the one hand, industry insiders (i.e. people who are never going to take out their own credit card to purchase a UG) are all patting their chum Mr. Kern on the back telling him how shrewd and clever he is.

And then we have, well, let's just say more than a few loyal fans who have been waiting for the new UG not unlike a 6 year old waiting for Christmas, who are now collectively recoiling at the price tag. For my part? In all honesty, Universal Genève never really turned my crank. It's perfectly nice, but nothing I've laid awake at night yearning for. So I don't have a dog in this particular fight.

For more than a few dollars more...

let's see what a shit ton of money will get you.

 

The Polerouter can be yours for a meare CHF 14,000 -

Courtesy of Universal Genève 

Let's put that into perspective... 

Actually, I can't. It is simply a stupid amount of money for what it actually is.

How about a chronograph?

Courtesy of Universal Genève 

A steal at CHF 15,500! 

As is the case with all things in Watch Town, we will have to wait and see. But when you take into consideration the ridiculously large sum that was paid to buy the brand out of mothballs, you might understand the desire to see at least some ROI. With that said, for those of us in the lower 48, you can do a lot with $19,622.81 (current conversion per XE as of 6:13 AM, Friday April 10). But then again, your kids don't need to go to college, you can take public transportation, and do you really need both kidneys?

Short-Time Work in Watch Town

As things start to get "realer" in Watch Town, the collective belts are needing to be tightened. On the upside? Unlike years past where brands made hundreds of watchmakers redundant but still kept their pet PR projects like yacht sponsorships and million CHF media excursions untouched, this time around the majority of suppliers and brands are taking advantage of short-time work. Essentially, the state in the guise of the Office for Economy and Employment will cover up to 80% of the cost (i.e. lost earnings), with the employer responsible for the remaining 20%. 

The usual suspects are being blamed - poorly performing markets in China and Hong Kong. But as someone with their ear to the ground here in the lower 48, allow me to inform the guys and gals in Watch Town that, in fact, it is a slowdown being felt pretty much everywhere. Here in the US there is anxious anticipation as to what the election in November will bring. Despite high inflation, overall the economy is strong with very low levels of unemployment. That is a reality. But just as people who lived through the Great Depression remain frugal even in good times, many would-be watch buyers remain cautious having made it through the worst of the pandemic, Hodinkee had to learn that lesson the hard way. 

I am guessing that purchase of Universal Genève is probably not looking so great right now. The argument could be made that it wasn't Breitling so much as their deep-pocketed investors, but keep in mind it is those same deep-pocketed investors Breitling will need to man the pumps should they start to take on water.

The downturn, more honestly, is down to a growing fear of the unknown... that is what is shaping the not-so-sexy sales figures here in the US, and I suspect elsewhere. What remains to be seen is how long Watch Town will be stuck in this funk. Because the other side of this reality is that although the goose may not be getting fat, Christmas is still coming. This means between now and Halloween, brand managers and sales reps will be wearing out shoe leather to try and get those holiday season orders in. And here's the rub - if all of the components, etc., are delayed because of short-time work...

Well, let's just say it might be a blue, blue Christmas. But you never know, there might be a Festivus Miracle in store for Watch Town.