Showing posts with label China. Show all posts
Showing posts with label China. Show all posts

Monday, November 11, 2024

Reality Check In - Who Really Pays The Tariff?

Campaign Promise Irony!

And no, that's not a special edition from Swatch to goose sales this November ; )


As the dust settles, and geopolitical uncertainty seems likely to be a "state of being" for the next four years, I thought it might be interesting to consider what the impacts might be if the promise of tariffs is realized and how it will impact things like, I don't know, the cost of watches?

Now curious to relate, watch town North America is populated by a lot of fans of the returning President-Elect. 

And fair enough, it is a free country. 

But what is even more curious is that many folks in the lower 48 cited inflation as their motivation for voting as they did, and that it was downright un-American to pay an additional .10 for a dozen eggs. 

And, fair enough, it is a free country.

The incoming President-elect has promised 60% tariffs on items coming into the US from China, and 10% from everywhere else. His rationale being that this won't hurt Americans as it is the Chinese (and other governments) who pay the tariffs. Now in fairness, I am not a trained economist, and I did't graduate from Penn's Wharton School. But as I have spent a fair amount of time working in Watch Town and Watch Town adjacent areas, I feel fairly confident in imparting the following reality - tariffs are not paid by the exporting countries. In fact, they are not paid by countries at all. How can I be so sure? Well, I have this odd habit of reading and researching rather than parroting what I hear on social media. Not to mention I have worked for companies that sell (and ship) to US customers from Switzerland, Japan, and Germany, and suffice it to say that those countries are not paying the import duties and taxes. You, Red, White, and Blue customer are. A few companies will lower their prices and eat the expense, but that is not a universal practice. 

So, as a public service, I thought I'd share some of my learnings with you. An interesing piece  on import tariffs that even I, a graduate from a large land-grant university can understand. You can read it in its entirety here -


Authored by Alex DuranteAlex Muresianu for taxfoundation.org:


"When the Trump administration imposed tariffs on various imports in 2018, the stated purpose was to boost US industries and punish foreign exporters. But rather than hurting foreign exporters, the economic evidence shows it is American firms and consumers hardest hit by the Trump tariffs. The tariffs resulted in higher prices for a wide variety of goods that US consumers and businesses purchase. The Biden administration has continued and even increased many of the Trump tariffs—drawing some attention as inflation rises. And while tariffs do raise prices for American consumers, their impact on economy-wide inflation is relatively small.

When the US imposes tariffs on imports, US businesses directly pay import taxes to the US government on their purchases from abroad. The economic burden of the tariffs, however, could fall on others besides the US business directly paying the tax, including foreign businesses selling goods to US businesses (if foreigners lower their prices to absorb some of the tariffs), or US consumers ultimately purchasing the goods (if US businesses raise their prices to pass on the tariffs).

Historically, economists have generally found that foreign firms have absorbed some of the burden of tariffs by lowering their prices, meaning domestic firms and consumers haven’t borne the entirety of higher tariffs in the past. In contrast to past studies, however, new studies have found the Trump-Biden tariffs have been passed almost entirely through to US firms or final consumers.

Economists Pablo Fajgelbaum, Pinelopi Goldberg, Patrick Kennedy, and Amit Khandelwal examined the tariffs on washing machines, solar panels, aluminum, steel, and goods from the European Union and China imposed in 2018 and 2019. They found that US firms and final consumers bore the entire burden of tariffs and estimated a net loss to the US economy of $16 billion annually, including more than $114 billion in losses to firms and consumers, offset by small gains to protected producers and revenue gains to the government."

Now, funnily enough, the guys (almost exclusively men) working in Watch Town US are very excited about the new administration coming in.

And, fair enough, it is a free country.

But I do have to wonder how enthusiastic they will be when their sales numbers start to stall out. Now it is curious to relate, that several of these guys (again, almost exclusively men) are absolutely convinced that nobody will balk at paying an EXTRA 10% for their watches, pens, and other non-essential luxury goods. I heard many of these fellows crowing post election day as to their certainty of this point.


And, fair enough, it is a free country.

But, and here's the rub - if we had a record number of people cite the economy and the price of eggs, milk, and gas as a reason to vote the way that they did, do you really think that they won't feel it when the extra 10% gets larded into the price of their watches, pens, and other nonessential luxury goods? Moreover, when Swiss brands are noted not for their sudden discounting, but rather, very predictable price increases, do you really think that they are going to adjust things just to suit the the US?


And, fair enough, it is a free country.

And one last thing - if you labor under any illusions as to China's involvement in the Swiss watch industry, I need only direct you to, well, Switzerland. Ultimately, in politics, love, and family? We tend to believe what we want to believe. We tend not to let realities get in the way of our hopes, dreams, and political promises.


And, fair enough, it is a free country.

Thursday, September 5, 2024

Short-Time Work in Watch Town

As things start to get "realer" in Watch Town, the collective belts are needing to be tightened. On the upside? Unlike years past where brands made hundreds of watchmakers redundant but still kept their pet PR projects like yacht sponsorships and million CHF media excursions untouched, this time around the majority of suppliers and brands are taking advantage of short-time work. Essentially, the state in the guise of the Office for Economy and Employment will cover up to 80% of the cost (i.e. lost earnings), with the employer responsible for the remaining 20%. 

The usual suspects are being blamed - poorly performing markets in China and Hong Kong. But as someone with their ear to the ground here in the lower 48, allow me to inform the guys and gals in Watch Town that, in fact, it is a slowdown being felt pretty much everywhere. Here in the US there is anxious anticipation as to what the election in November will bring. Despite high inflation, overall the economy is strong with very low levels of unemployment. That is a reality. But just as people who lived through the Great Depression remain frugal even in good times, many would-be watch buyers remain cautious having made it through the worst of the pandemic, Hodinkee had to learn that lesson the hard way. 

I am guessing that purchase of Universal Genève is probably not looking so great right now. The argument could be made that it wasn't Breitling so much as their deep-pocketed investors, but keep in mind it is those same deep-pocketed investors Breitling will need to man the pumps should they start to take on water.

The downturn, more honestly, is down to a growing fear of the unknown... that is what is shaping the not-so-sexy sales figures here in the US, and I suspect elsewhere. What remains to be seen is how long Watch Town will be stuck in this funk. Because the other side of this reality is that although the goose may not be getting fat, Christmas is still coming. This means between now and Halloween, brand managers and sales reps will be wearing out shoe leather to try and get those holiday season orders in. And here's the rub - if all of the components, etc., are delayed because of short-time work...

Well, let's just say it might be a blue, blue Christmas. But you never know, there might be a Festivus Miracle in store for Watch Town. 

Thursday, January 20, 2022

Watches and Wondering - Waiting for Godot

With the dearth of new releases out there, and the notable silence from the fair's organizers, it is seeming less and less likely that 2022 (at least March/April) will see the return of large scale, in-person watch fairs in Geneva.

Credit: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0276613/

On the one hand, it appears that the latest COVID surge has peaked in several countries. But reaching the peak does not put us back to a safe infection level... at least not yet. Geneva is one of the strictest cantons in Switzerland in terms of health and safety policy, and for all of the foreign buyers and press that hope to come to attend a show there are quite a few hoops that they will have to jump through - I say this having travelled in September and November. And that's just to get into Switzerland. I will also make clear that I agree with Switzerland's stance. Which I guess means that Novak Djocovic won't be making any personal appearances at the Hublot booth in the near future.

China and Hong Kong represent the largest block of customers for Richemont and most likely LVMH and Kering. For those folks, getting to Switzerland is one thing. Coming back home? Well, that's quite the other. Lengthy quarantine requirements have marked a significant drop in travel both from and to this region. So with all of that being said, I don't expect that a lot of these folks will be opting to attend. And let's not even get started with the US, where (for better or worse) public health and safety has become more of a political issue than, well, a health and safety issue. Unless the Swiss government opts to drop the vaccination requirements for entry at the Zurich, Basel, and Geneva airports, a large swath of folks from North America will be staying home. 

That leaves the Middle East, Africa, South America and parts of Europe. This is not to say that these are not important markets or customers, but it is to say that they do not, unfortunately, represent the same percentage of turnover for the brands.

And lastly, there are the organizers of the show itself. Watches and Wonders, along with its predecessor the SIHH, went to great lengths to create an atmosphere of not only exclusivity, but exclusion in the past. And while it might be "the only game in town", I give Watches and Wonders about as much consideration as I do NOMOS
Glashütte
, which is to say I don't consider it at all.

Wednesday, July 22, 2020

The Only Way Out Of Winter Is Through It

So the export numbers are in, and they are pretty sucky.
Courtesy of the FH
As the graph shows, while things slightly stabilized, they are still not nearly where they need to be. Also keep in mind that the Swiss Watch Makers holidays are upon us, so there is a desire to push out as much as possible before shipping stops for 3 weeks or so.

Of the top markets, China is the only one that is "up" by 47.7%. The argument could be made that China being the first major economy to pass through the first wave of COVID-19 is showing signs of growth and recovery. Well, yes and no. Let's be honest with ourselves about a few
realities -

1. As has been said here Ad nauseam - Exports Do Not Equal Sales. More likely than a huge uptick in sales, we are watching a fairly large scale shift of stock so that it is "in country" before the second wave hits. Granted, there are sales happening, but not on the scale that would indicate a strong recovery.

2. The big Swiss brands are still refusing to learn from previous lessons. When it comes to eggs, there are 2 rules -
A. Don't count your chickens before they hatch -Simply put, exports do not equal sales.
B. Don't put all of your eggs in one basket -
When you put all of your focus on one market, what do you do when that market is suffering?

If these past months have taught us anything, it is that nothing is likely going to be the same as it was, even once we are past the worst of the current pandemic. Wishing, hoping and wanting things to return to the way they were is not going to magically make it happen.



Tuesday, February 4, 2020

When the Other Penny Drops

Before we even start talking about watches, it is safe to say that the coronavirus is very serious, is not really "knowable" in terms of impact, and is nothing to make light of in any way, shape or form.  The shit is getting a bit scary.  And despite what some of my right leaning colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate might muse, that it is "not even as bad as the flu..."  I think it is fair to say that this is a major health and welfare reality that no amount of swagger, jingoism or America First/Deep State Conspiracy Theory will explain away.  The coronavirus does not give two shits about who you voted for, or whether or not you believe in the reporting of the media, the reality of global warming, the earth being round, or buy into that other left-wing fairy tale, gravity.


With the SWATCH group's announcement yesterday to pull the plug on their (now not) annual Time To Move event some interesting questions have been raised beyond the obvious health concerns.


It is important to keep a few things in mind, not least of which is that most flights between the Chinese mainland and, well, anywhere else, let alone Switzerland have been suspended -
https://lenews.ch/2020/01/29/swiss-cancels-all-flights-to-china/

And per SWISS -

https://www.swiss.com/us/EN/various/breaking-news

This also includes:  KLM, United, American, Delta, Air Canada, ANA, Korean, Cathay Pacific... and the list goes on and on.  My point being, if you are in mainland China, it is highly unlikely that you will be able to get a direct flight.  Most of the international airlines will not "re-open" those routes until late this month/early March at the earliest.  And what does that mean?  Chinese customers and journalists will not be able to attend any shows.  And cynical though this may sound, I suspect that this is what is really at the heart of the cancellation of the event.  To the best of my knowledge, international conferences and trade fairs are (at least as of this writing) still planning to move forward, except in China and Hong Kong, of course. 

And what this really underscores is the now undeniable reality of just how dependent the Swiss watch industry is upon China.  Because at this moment the concern is about people's ability to travel from China to attend a trade fair.  But that is really just the tip of the iceberg.  What comes next is multi-faceted.

Actual watch manufacturing - despite what the FH and the regulations regarding Swiss Made might have you believe, you would have very few watches made anywhere without China and it's suppliers, assemblers, manufacturers and prototypers.  

So what?  Why does this matter?  These people don't have to travel to Switzerland!  Well, yes and no.  They do have to travel to the factory where they work, which for many now is...

CLOSED

The word around the campfires in Switzerland, Germany and Japan is that in China, more than a few (now) former loyalists were asked to enjoy their New Year holidays and, well, not come back.  In other instances, people are being forced to stay home to ensure that the virus cannot spread through a given factory.  And then the dominoes begin to fall.  Because even mighty SWATCH, Richemont and LVMH depend upon some (in some cases, many) things that are sourced from China.  That's just a simple reality.

Now, it goes without saying that we all hope that the virus will be successfully quarantined and if not eradicated, controlled from further spread.  But for right now, it might be a good time to put your politics aside, because it's about to bite everyone's ass on a global level, no matter what industry you're in. 

So spare a thought for the health of the people out there suffering.  And if you can't do it out of, I don't know, simple human decency?  You can always take the pragmatic view of the health of your bank account, that way you won't feel like a "snowflake".

We live in interesting times.

Wednesday, June 21, 2017

When Translation Gets Lost in Space

Okay, it must be that the English teacher in me is still not fully switched off for summer vacation, but today's press release from Tag Heuer had me reaching for my red pen before I'd even finished my first espresso.

So grab your exercise books and let's get to it!  And I would ask that you read all the way through to the end because there is a point I am driving at.


Courtesy of Tag Heuer

The announcement was made during a press conference held for the very first time by an international brand inside the Rocket Launch Center.
This was also the first time a watch brand was able to bring medias and retailers to watch a real Rocket Launch!

Through a journey to the moon, TAG Heuer once again visits the galaxy! 

[June 19, 2017, Xichang] Today, TAG Heuer, the Swiss avant-garde watchmaker, was gloriously chosen as Strategic Partner and Official Timekeeper for Chinas Lunar Exploration Program (CLEP). 

I guess if you're going to be chosen, it ought to be gloriously...


Courtesy of Tag Heuer
Additionally, TAG Heuer is the first international brand to hold an official partnership with China’s aerospace industry! Mr. Leo Poon, TAG Heuer General Manager of Greater China, Mr. Xu Xingli, General Manager at Chang'E Aerospace Technology (Beijing) LLC, gathered in Xichang for this meaningful press conference together with guests and friends from the media, they witnessed the magnificent launch of the satellite. With its avant-garde spirit of #DontCrackUnderPressure, TAG Heuer will continue with its great support for China’s aerospace industry, following its first partnership signed in August 2016 with China’s Mars Exploration Program. The CLEP is now on time with TAG Heuer!

If you're going to take the time to have a press conference, and you're going to invite a hundred or so media and retail partners, let's hope it's meaningful!

Tranquil as the Moon, Rising as the Sun
 
I have absolutely no idea what "Tranquil as the Moon, Rising
as the Sun" is supposed to mean.
 
In 2004, the CLEP officially started, deploying with three phases of orbiting, landing and returning. In 2007, China's first lunar probe Chang'e-1 was successfully launched. Chang'e-1 is the first lunar probe to transmit back the most complete 3-D map of the lunar surface, marking the milestone of China becoming one of the countries with outer space exploration capability. Since the second phase of the CLEP being approved and initiated in 2008, Chang’e-2 and Chang’e-3 lunar probes were successfully launched and completed their mission. The strategic goals of the second phase have been fully achieved.

In 2014, the third phase of the CLEP has officially started. The plan is to implement Chang'e-5 mission by December in 2017, fulfilling the landing of surface and collection of samples. This does not only mean the third phase of “returning” will be accomplished, it will also achieve a milestone in the history of space activities in China -- “Quadruple Success”, including the first automatic collection of samples, the first take-off from lunar surface, the first unmanned space docking from the orbit of moon that is thirty-eight million kilometres away, and the first return of lunar soils in the speed of second cosmic velocity.

???

By breaking limits and combating challenges, Chinese people in aerospace created a glorious miracle with extraordinary national ethos and powerful exploration spirit on this grand journey. TAG Heuer’s great support for China’s aerospace industry demonstrated the avant-garde spirit of #DontCrackUnderPressure in the best way possible.
 
Double ???  

I am somewhat puzzled as to just what exactly "extraordinary national ethos and powerful exploration spirit" is.

Join Hands in the Vast Space

TAG Heuer is the Swiss avant-garde watchmaker for more than a century. As early as 1962, TAG Heuer became the first Swiss watchmaker in space with American astronaut John Glenn, pilot of the Friendship 7 spacecraft on Mercury-Atlas 6. In 2012, TAG Heuer once again proved its reliability and accuracy by bringing a watch to the International Space Station by SpaceX, and became the partner with S3 (Swiss Space Systems) ZeroG aerospace program after two years.
 
Courtesy of Tag Heuer
TAG Heuer’s collaboration with China’s aerospace industry originated in 2016. From its partnership with China’s Mars Exploration Program to kick off its global solicitation for program logo design, to becoming Strategic Partner and Official Timekeeper of the CLEP today, TAG Heuer has shown tremendous dedication and support to the development of China’s aerospace industry and achieving the dreams of Chinese people in aerospace!


Now let's be very, very honest with each other - this is a vivid example of language and culture colliding.  And I have a theory:

1.  Tag Heuer and their folks at Tag Heuer China have worked to create a unique partnership with CLEP (China Lunar Exploration Program).  And I think this is pretty cool.  And yes, I mean that sincerely.

2.  For this event, it seems clear that it was intended for the Chinese market (press and retail partners).  Again, that is understandable.  And therefore it is reasonable to assume that the original press release was drafted in (one would assume) Mandarin.  

3.  It was probably decided that this might be interesting to the global watch press - and yes, the partnership itself is interesting and newsworthy. This release was then, most likely, translated from Mandarin to English.   The fact that it is currently a somewhat slow watch news cycle (typical for this time of year) probably also influenced the decision to send this out to the global watch press. 

4.  There are translations, and then there are translations.  Language is more than words, punctuation and grammar.  It is also about culture, and most definitely about nuance.  This is a press release that is dripping with nuance - and I mean that as praise, not as snark.  But because this was a very cursory translation, that nuance gets lost, and actually becomes somewhat comical.  When it is put into English, without taking into consideration what is cultural nuance and what is merely language, it does not have the positive impact that it might.

5.  This translation may, in fact, be the work of a few teams.  And this is just a hunch, but my hunch is that none of these teams had a native English speaker on them. 

6.  It is clear that there was not a proofreader/editor tasked with ensuring that this release made sense to the intended audience.


THE EMPEROR'S NEW CLOTHES 
Now, let's think about this from a more global perspective.  A LOT of money gets spent on a daily basis by companies for advertising and marketing.  And in most industries, the companies understand the importance of clear and correct language.  The watch industry is somewhat unique in its refusal to accept that the people that they have engaged (usually agencies in Switzerland) are not delivering on their commitment to not only translate, but proof and edit their documentation and marketing materials.  In many cases there is nobody at the company who is either willing, or able to tell the decision makers that there is a problem.  The translation company assures the brand representative that they have a crack team of top translators and writers working for them.  So like the (actually) naked emperor, the brand goes through life blissfully (and willingly) unaware that a good portion of their marketing and communication collateral is not correctly translated.  And like the aforementioned emperor, these materials can become a source of unintended amusement.

And it doesn't have to be this way!  If you have budgetary funds to pay for shirts, hats, bags, press junkets to go surfing in Hawaii, free watches (hint-hint), and champagne?  Then you can afford the $200 US to pay someone who will ensure that your press release makes sense.

You know where to reach me...






Saturday, September 26, 2015

The Hublot Executive Limited Edition

So for whatever reason, I don't get every single press release.  But while I was browsing around Hublot's press area I came across this one which was pretty interesting and the watch was intriguing, so here you go -


September 14, 2015, Beijing China——the 65th anniversary ceremony of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Switzerland was held in Embassy of Switzerland in Beijing. As the exclusive official watch partner, Hublot is honored to launch the "65th Anniversary Swiss-China" limited edition to celebrate this historic moment. With remarkable achievements in the global watchmaking business, Hublot has been actively involved in the Sino-Swiss Free Trade Agreement (FTA) since July 2014, and also releases FTA limited edition (Classic Fusion Sino-Swiss FTA Limited Edition timepiece), paying tribute to the steady development of the two countries. 

Courtesy of Hublot

On September 14, 1950, Switzerland established diplomatic relations with the New China. For the 65 years since then, the bilateral relations have been developing steadily in cultural, economic, energy, tourism and other aspects. 

Courtesy of Hublot


Thursday, April 2, 2015

Nuking the PR Fridge with Hublot

Hublot partnerships are becoming about as unique and special as, I don't know, a Hublot partnership...
Shamelessly borrowed from the internet
So hang onto your hats sports fans, here's the latest "exclusive"partnership trotted out by the folks in Nyon -

Courtesy of Hublot
So behold, the Big Bang Unico Bi-retrograde Chronograph Limited Edition for the Guangzhou Evergrande Taobao FC.  No, if I'm honest I've never heard of this team either.  But Hublot's press release dispelled all of my doubts -


Guangzhou Evergrande Taobao Football Club, as one of the top football clubs in Asia, has achieved outstanding triumphs. From 2011 to 2014, the club made it to the top of Chinese Football Association Super League for 4 consecutive seasons. In 2013, Evergrande won the first place in AFC Champions League and became the first champion of the league in Chinese football history. Behind these brilliant achievements is Evergrande's spirit of proactive self-improvement, breaking limits and never give up. And it is Evergrande's spirit that has moved countless football fans and become the best interpretation of Hublot's spirit of pioneering and innovation.

I'm not sure about the grammar, but with a "spirit of proactive self-improvement, breaking limits and (my personal favorite) never give up" ...

For "realsies"?


But with a team slogan like "Be the Best Forever" I have absolutely no doubt we'll be hearing quite a bit from this amazing team in the near future...


And in fairness, perhaps I do not follow football in China as closely as I should.
Courtesy of Hublot
And as if that wasn't enough, what's a circus without two other Hublot ambassadors to further confuse the message?  Hublot's ambassadors Lang Lang and Pele himself were there as well!

But wait, there's more!  Mr. Fabio Cannavaro, the new "executive chief coach" was there!  I have a shiny new Hublot Big Bang for the person who can explain (rationally) what the f*&(k an "executive chief coach" is...


Here's the thing - I am GLAD, THRILLED, ECSTATIC that Hublot "loves football" -  but what I'd really like to see is, I don't know, some of that Hublot "magic money" go to fund football in countries that actually really need the help.  Plenty of kids in India, Kenya, Tanzania, and other "less sexy" places like to play football too.  And continuing a partnership with FIFA which is about as corrupt as an organization gets is NOT something I would be proudly announcing.

Partnerships like these are beginning to get extremely cynical, but as a friend mentioned to me, it's not a bad business plan - create a partner watch and you're guaranteed to sell 40 or so pieces.

Here's the thing - Hublot is not a charity, it is a company that makes watches - very nice watches.  And they do a lot of good - but they don't publicize this good NEARLY enough.  When all I get in the "in box" is another "here we are with this famous person" it makes me feel a bit like the expectation  of Hublot's PR office is that we should all be sycophants, and just "drink the Kool-Aid".











Monday, November 22, 2010

Ping Pong Diplomacy and watches

Again with apologies in advance to the younger readership out there, I was talking with a former colleague (who now works in DC) about the rapid changes we have seen in China over the past 10 years. He then reminisced about how things were in the 70s (he is a bit older than me).  And we talked for hours about the viability of modern day ping-pong diplomacy with other countries.  Needless to say we did not come to any solid - or rational conclusions!  Following the conversation, my mind wandered to watches.  Now of course there are a BUNCH of Chinese watches out there today (and regrettably several "undercover" Chinese watches as well).

I wanted to go back far enough to get a sense of what they were really like before we got to where we are now.  So over to Ebay and approximately 10 days later this arrived.   Still in her original packaging from I presume the 1970s here is a quick photo of her.

There is more to follow, but my plan is a very basic service from Ali, open her up and photograph her, put her on the timer for a more scientific result, and then the 15 day review.   I am aiming for January for this, so stay tuned.