Showing posts with label NOMOS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label NOMOS. Show all posts

Thursday, January 20, 2022

Watches and Wondering - Waiting for Godot

With the dearth of new releases out there, and the notable silence from the fair's organizers, it is seeming less and less likely that 2022 (at least March/April) will see the return of large scale, in-person watch fairs in Geneva.

Credit: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0276613/

On the one hand, it appears that the latest COVID surge has peaked in several countries. But reaching the peak does not put us back to a safe infection level... at least not yet. Geneva is one of the strictest cantons in Switzerland in terms of health and safety policy, and for all of the foreign buyers and press that hope to come to attend a show there are quite a few hoops that they will have to jump through - I say this having travelled in September and November. And that's just to get into Switzerland. I will also make clear that I agree with Switzerland's stance. Which I guess means that Novak Djocovic won't be making any personal appearances at the Hublot booth in the near future.

China and Hong Kong represent the largest block of customers for Richemont and most likely LVMH and Kering. For those folks, getting to Switzerland is one thing. Coming back home? Well, that's quite the other. Lengthy quarantine requirements have marked a significant drop in travel both from and to this region. So with all of that being said, I don't expect that a lot of these folks will be opting to attend. And let's not even get started with the US, where (for better or worse) public health and safety has become more of a political issue than, well, a health and safety issue. Unless the Swiss government opts to drop the vaccination requirements for entry at the Zurich, Basel, and Geneva airports, a large swath of folks from North America will be staying home. 

That leaves the Middle East, Africa, South America and parts of Europe. This is not to say that these are not important markets or customers, but it is to say that they do not, unfortunately, represent the same percentage of turnover for the brands.

And lastly, there are the organizers of the show itself. Watches and Wonders, along with its predecessor the SIHH, went to great lengths to create an atmosphere of not only exclusivity, but exclusion in the past. And while it might be "the only game in town", I give Watches and Wonders about as much consideration as I do NOMOS
Glashütte
, which is to say I don't consider it at all.

Tuesday, November 17, 2020

Further - 7 Days and More with the Paulin Neo B

A few observations about my wife Wendy. She is really pretty - but that is an easy (and obvious) one. She is kind, and far more patient than I could ever be. She is Canadian, albeit a dual citizen of the lower 48 now, which probably explains the kindness and patience. She is far smarter than I will ever hope to be, and she is always finding some interesting new thing, be it a podcast, a story, or a far-away town well off the beaten path that makes me question whether or not she has some telepathic link to the universe at large that the rest of us lack.
One of my favorite writers (albeit an occasionally short-fused one in real life... sound like anyone we know?), Richard Ford wrote a wonderful essay about his wife Kristina for Esquire (US edition) back in 1990.  I remember reading and being knocked out by it, cutting it out and putting it up on my wall next to my desk my final year at the University of Oregon back in the summer of 90.  Should you wish to read it in its entirety you can find it here -
https://classic.esquire.com/article/1990/6/1/kristina-ford

In the essay, he shared a comment that many of us married to remarkable women get from friends and acquaintances, essentially -
How did a guy like you get a woman like her to marry you?

And while he offered a few very witty ripostes, my simple answer is that I got lucky.  And I continue to get lucky, so far I've enjoyed a lucky streak of 26 years. For another possible answer, Mr. Ford turned a John Milton/Branch Rickey (and God knows who else) quote on it's head -

"Anybody with any brains knows that design is always just the residue of luck".

And yes, I've had enough luck for several lifetimes.

Wendy has an interesting eye, particularly when it comes to watches. You can't really assign a "type" when it comes to what she likes: 

  • My Omega Seamaster 30 (circa 1962) purchased for approximately $30 US in a Turku, Finland flea market.
  • A briefly owned and loved (and still deeply missed) Rolex Explorer. 
  • A bright red Angular Momentum sport model (one of my personal favs).
  • A Nomos Tangente (great watches, absolute turds working in the PR office - that's my comment, not hers).                                                                       
She's not really impressed by brand names or celebrity ambassadors. She likes what she likes based on her own opinion. And...
This is by long way of saying that Wendy has been wearing the Paulin Neo B for the past few days and like Mikey of Life Cereal fame, I think she likes it. 

So I'll be back next week with an update and final impressions - stay tuned.

And stay lucky!


Friday, July 3, 2020

Would You Believe It?

I missed it!  I missed Tempus Fugit's 10th Birthday!

The first official post ever was (actually) on June 29th, 2010 - and you can read it here -

Where It All Begins

Courtesy of NOMOS
Time is fleeting. To measure it is a nearly futile protest against its inevitable forward momentum. How do we measure time? The folks at Nomos have been good enough to share some images and some stories. The watch pictured above is the Nomos Tangente. I have always been obsessed by this watch. Beyond the obvious - i.e. the design, I had always found the name quite evocative - Tangente. I had always believed that the name had a design reference. As if Mies himself had lent a hand (albeit from the great beyond) in the design of this great watch. It was only many years later when traveling through Switzerland with my German speaking boss that it was explained to me. The name Tangente had nothing to do with design. In fact, the Tangente was named for the roadways that you must travel in your car on a daily basis in Germany. At first I was a bit bummed out. But then I thought about the genius of this name. I have been smiling ever since.


Saturday, May 23, 2020

11 Days Left In Our 10th Anniversary Fundraiser!

There are 11 days left in our 10th Anniversary fundraiser!

Please consider supporting us and buy a Tempus Fugit T-Shirt for $15 -
Support Tempus Fugit!
https://www.customink.com/fundraising/help-support-tempus-fugit-on-our-tenth-anniversary
It was June 29, 2010 when Tempus Fugit started with this post on the NOMOS Tangente - Where It All Begins

And believe me, given my current opinion of the communications/pr brain trust in Berlin by way of Glashütte, the irony of NOMOS being the very first post for Tempus Fugit is not lost on me ; )

While I had worked in the watch industry for some time, there was a lot to learn about how other brands and their teams worked.  I would say that for 8 years, the NOMOS media team were polite, and professional.  In the last 2 years?  Well, let's just say that the watch makers at NOMOS make a very fine watch. And the still fairly new Berlin based communications team and North American office?  
Probably the less said the better.

Tempus Fugit

Friday, February 28, 2020

Just Remember What Ole' Jack Burton Said At A Time Like That

And then there were none.  To quote that other great commentator on the watch business, Jack Burton (as played by Kurt Russell) -
Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info-web
"I'm a reasonable guy, I've just experienced some very unreasonable things."

BaselWorld has gone the way of Watches and Wonders and Time to Move.  Regardless of how artfully the language of force majeure might be utilized, the show has in effect, been cancelled for 2020.
Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info-web
"I'm gonna tell you about an accident, and I don't wanna hear 'act of God"'

But, that is essentially all that can be said.  BaselWorld, more than any of the other fairs had the most to lose in not moving forward this year.

I personally always liked going to the fair.  Even when times were flush, and some of the brands treated every "B-List" journalist like shit, it was still exciting and fun.  And in fairness to the organizers, this edition of BaselWorld has experienced the Lallapalooza of bad luck.  First with scheduling, then with several brands bailing out owing to the state of the watch business, and now Watch Ville has its very own version of Contagion -
Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info-web
And the question is, what watch brand is the Gwyneth Paltrow character in this version?  RJ folded their hand and retired from the field yesterday, but their fate had been sealed probably 18 months ago.  Sooner or later, the plug gets pulled.  And investors and bankers are not going to have the same sentimentality as your family, who apparently will forgive you even if you take a later flight from O'Hare to Minneapolis on your return from Hong Kong so you can "sex it" with an old flame... but I digress.

Personally?  I'm a wee bit disappointed,  I was looking forward to flipping the NOMOS booth the bird every time I passed by, now that will have to wait for 2021.  Well, something to look forward to I guess.  

I was, sincerely looking forward to what Tudor might have this year, as last year was a bit of a squib.  But most of all?  I was looking forward to the Watch Lounge (the reincarnation of The HYPE), but again, tomorrow (or in this case, 2021) is another day.

So then, what is next?  Curious to relate, I think in many ways this perfect storm maybe came at just the right time.  The herd needs to be culled.  The continuing Big Trouble in Big China is bearing that out.  In Hong Kong, there are rumors of a major group offering retail stores 75% off of their products in the hope that they will buy.  And this was BEFORE COVID-19.  Long story short?  Even the slipperiest weasels who scurry around the grey market can't keep up and flush the product fast enough.  

As odd as this will sound at a time like this, I think the fairs are in a perfect position to try and put together a really good show for next year. And maybe, just maybe the egos of Richemont will see the logistical logic of joining forces with BaselWorld. And maybe, just maybe Hayek the Younger will come back... 

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info-web
Okay, maybe not. But the only way out of winter is through it, so maybe a year without watch shows will remind us of everything we used to love about them.  And the experience will certainly (we can hope) help the brands and the fairs see each others' point of view a wee bit better, be a bit more humble, and realize that they not only need each other, but they need the media, and that increasingly elusive unicorn, the customer.

Sometimes you gotta pay your dues, and for the citizens of Watch Ville, this is one of those times.  So watch fairs, have you paid your dues?
Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info-web

Monday, February 24, 2020

A Belly Full

It is, I guess, a bit ironic that as Tempus Fugit approaches its tenth anniversary, I am struggling with the idea of keeping it going.  

I think it might be useful to share why I started this whole thing.  I had worked for DOXA for the three years previous to the launch of Tempus Fugit.  I was still an extreme watch fan, and if I am honest, I was pretty put-off with the discussion forums that were so popular at the time.  I was also laboring under a delusion that what you read in the watch media was accurate and honest.  It wasn't then, and it isn't now.  When Tempus Fugit started I had a starry-eyed idea of creating a Sartorialist type website for watches.  I was positive, believing, and honestly?  Easily persuaded.

The simple truth is this - the watch brands would be more honest if they sent you all a check for reading the press releases that come to you filtered through the major outlets.  But they don't.  And while the checks used to come to the major outlets, that has begun to dry up as well.  And now the outlets are struggling for oxygen - and that oxygen is the funding that helps to help keep them alive.  The former enthusiasts have now become business owners.  

And?  

I want to say something very, very clearly - I do not criticize any outlets for making money.  But, I do not equate alleged readership numbers (frequently juked) with actual factual content or quality.  It is a broken system, and in all honesty?  There was no other way that this could have gone once people started imagining not having to work a nine-to-five any more.

Do you ever wonder why every big outlet is frequently putting out exactly the same thing on the same day?  Not me.

Some inside baseball - watch brands (both big and small) flush an insane amount of money down the toilet in the hope of getting one of the big (or even not-so-big) outlets to write about them.  Nomos sent me an invite to Germany this past Summer and confirmed it... before cancelling it at the last minute.  Why?  My hunch is this, my email: henkitime@... has led more than one not-so-diligent watch PR person in the past to not read so closely, and assume that I was with a well-known outlet that starts with an "H".  Ironically enough, Nomos did not see the groundswell of influence that 3 round-trip business class tickets on Lufthansa from the US and accommodation might have been expected to pay for.  And the most ironic thing in the entire sad saga?  Nomos was the very first brand I had written about 9+ years ago, and I was one of (you could count the number on not just one hand, but three fingers) journalists who came out to support their stance against racism and support of immigration tolerance. Yes Nomos, me.  

PS: Nomos - you're welcome.

Would I have really enjoyed visiting Glashutte?  Absolutely.  But it made one thing very, very clear to me - watch media has degenerated into Kabuki theatre of the disingenuous.

So, let's cut to the heart of it.  While I often say that I am my own favorite watch writer, I would point to two people out there who are truly offering something you should, dare I say it, you must be reading if you really, actually care about watches beyond what a brand is paying you to be interested in.   

Adam Sofineti is the man behind Watch Paper - http://watchpaper.com   He is one of the few people that clearly loves watches, history, and sharing that passion without his hand in a brand's pocket.  I wish I were as detailed, driven and, well,  passionate.  In many ways, Adam is the writer I would like to be, and who when I have the time, and the muse speaks to me, I hope to emulate.

Gregory Pons I have been accused of two things that actually flatter me - trying to be the Tony Bourdain of watch writing, and trying to be the English language equivalent of Gregory Pons.  Both accusations flatter me, because I am in both men's shadows.

It says something about a true critic that watch brands still pay for advertising, and people actually PAY to read what you have to say when you are not, let's say, kissing the ring.  

I lead a dual life in the watch industry.  Yes, I write this little bloggy-wog, and am in the second tier of the watch media.  But I also work on the brand side, and as such I get to see behind the curtain where the "wizard" lives.  I cannot tell you how many times when visiting Swiss brands where I have seen Business Montres on the screens of the sales, pr and marketing teams.  That says something.  Business Montres has, in many ways, become the Harvard Business Review of the watch industry.  

So, if you want an actual opinion that hasn't been purchased, or leased?  Please continue reading Tempus Fugit, Watch Paper and Business Montres.

And so that there are no misunderstandings?  There are a few brands out there that I will NEVER be able to be completely objective about owing to friendships, relationships, and in some instances brands that I represent.  

You can rest assured - if there is a relationship, it will be disclosed.  I will be honest with you.  At a very base level, that seems only fair.


Be well and enjoy your watches.



Monday, June 17, 2019

Some Rare Nomos Tangente Goodness

While going through my copy of the NOMOS Glashutte - The Great Universal ENCYCLOPAEDIA this morning, I looked back upon some of the great limited edition Nomos models of the past.  And one that caught my eye was the NOMOS Tangente Heisse Liebe - Wempe 100.  My trusty Google Translate lists this as "Hot Love", but in fairness, German is not one of my main languages so I welcome anyone out there to correct this ; )

Courtesy of Club NOMOS
You will notice the window between 12 o'clock and 2 o'clock.  Rather than the traditional power reserve indicator, you will note the imagery of hearts.  If I have understood the briefing correctly, the hearts "fill" with red as the power reserve is increased.  Definitely a fun way to display that function, somewhat reminiscent of Alain Silberstein.

Going by the info found at the VERY GOOD Club NOMOS site, this was limited to 100 pieces and was released in 2005.





Friday, June 7, 2019

The Tangente Sport neomatik 42 date

From NOMOS -

Courtesy of NOMOS
This is the latest iteration of the Sport collection.  Water resistant to 1000 feet, the Tangente Sport neomatic measures (you guessed it) 42 mm in diameter.  The case is of stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter, with a height of 10.9 mm.
Courtesy of NOMOS
The movement is the NOMOS DUW 6101, automatic, with a power reserve of 42 hours.  
Courtesy of NOMOS
But what caught the attention of most folks at BaselWorld was the bracelet.  All too often, bracelets are more of an after thought than an actual design decision.  Not so with the new bracelets from NOMOS.  

Typically, we tend to think of Horween leather straps when we think about NOMOS
Add caption
Well, the only constant in life is change.  And in true NOMOS style, this change was carefully considered and mapped out.  The result is a bracelet that truly pairs with the now iconic NOMOS designs.  


Courtesy of NOMOS
The result is a bracelet that is sleek, well structured, and above all? Comfortable.

Here are the pertinents -


CASE
stainless steel, bipartite  
sapphire crystal glass back
GLASS
domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside and out
WINDING
automatic
DIMENSIONS
diameter 42.0 mm 
height 10.9 mm 
WATER RESISTANCE
30 atm (suitable for diving)
DIAL
galvanized, white silver-plated, hour indexes with sand-colored superluminova 
1000 ft inscription at six o’clock in red
HANDS
rhodium-plated, hour and minute hands with superluminova inlay in dark blue 
STRAP
sport bracelet
CALIBER
DUW 6101
automatic
MOVEMENT HEIGHT
3.6 mm
DIAMETER
15 ½ lines (35.2 mm)
POWER RESERVE
up to 42 hours
JEWELS
27


Wednesday, March 20, 2019

BaselWorld Beckons

So it's that time again.  BaselWorld beckons and once again the hustle is real.  I am writing this from the newly revamped press area that is adjacent to Hall 1 (translation?  Too much space left unoccupied).

There are some very, very weird vibes.  Obviously we hope that the fair will be good, successful, etc. But I would be less than forthright if I did not say that there is a palpable whiff of anxiety hovering around the area.  So we shall wait, and we will see.

More to come, stay tuned!

Thursday, January 31, 2019

The Tangente neomatik 41 Update in Dark Platinum

From NOMOS-

Courtesy of NOMOS

This is a follow-up on the previous release in a new color version.

Courtesy of NOMOS

Here are the pertinents -



CASE:
stainless steel, bipartite sapphire crystal glass back

GLASS:
sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on inner side

WINDING:
automatic
DIMENSIONS: 
diameter 40.5 mm height 7.9 mm
WATER RESISTANCE:
up to 5 atm (suitable for showering) 


DIAL:
galvanized, refined with ruthenium date ring

HANDS: 
rhodium-plated
STRAP:
Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, remborde 
lug width 20 mm
REFERENCE: 
181
 
CALIBER
DUW 6101—in-house built NOMOS neomatik caliber with automatic winding, neomatik date mechanism, and bidirectional quick correction feature

MOVEMENT HEIGHT: 
3.6 mm
DIAMETER:
15 1⁄2 lines (35.2 mm)

POWER RESERVE: 
up to 42 hours 


SPECIAL QUALITIES
NOMOS swing system tempered blue balance spring
NOMOS balance bridge, fixed by screws on both sides
stop-seconds mechanism bidirectional winding rotor with gold-plated embossing

Glashütte three-quarter plate
DUW regulation system adjusted in six positions 27 jewels

tempered blue screws rhodium-plated surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage golden engravings




 


Wednesday, January 23, 2019

Welcome to the Club!

NOMOS has announced three new variants of the Club Campus -

Courtesy of NOMOS


We're going to check these out one at a time.  And for those of you playing along at home, you will note that a bracelet secures this watch as opposed to the typical leather strap found on a NOMOS watch.

This is the Club Campus neomatik 39, and here are the pertinents -

CASE
stainless steel, bipartite stainless steel back

GLASS

domed sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on inner side

WINDING 

automatic

DIMENSIONS 

diameter 39.5 mm height 8.4 mm

WATER RESISTANCE 

up to 20 atm (suitable for diving) 



DIAL
galvanized, white silver- plated
Arabic and Roman numerals and indexes with dark blue superluminova

HANDS
rhodium-plated, hour and minute hands with white superluminova inlay

STRAP
bracelet
lug width 20 mm

REFERENCE
 

765 

CALIBER
DUW 3001—in-house built NOMOS neomatik caliber with automatic winding

MOVEMENT HEIGHT
 

3.2 mm

DIAMETER

12 3⁄4 lines (28.8 mm)

POWER RESERVE
 

up to 43 hours


Wednesday, December 5, 2018

Following Up With NOMOS

A while back I posted an op-ed piece on NOMOS declaring a position to stand against xenophobic, right wing political ideologies and to endeavor to create a safe and secure working environment for their staff where informed, rational discussion can take place.  For those of you joining our regularly scheduled programming late, here is a link to that -


I found it interesting that the majority of the watch media had not picked it up, and still haven't.  I suppose that is a separate conversation for another day.  

I have received some feedback that in some ways surprised me - people who questioned why I cared about this, what my "agenda" was, etc.  On a side note, I got the same sort of "smug" retort from a well-known watch journalist who posted a fairly racist, and derogatory cartoon, responding "Well, I don't think it's racist".  That's as well may be, but... sometimes you gotta' call bullshit.  And for me, this is one of those times.  I am confident that this guy's vague understanding of racial diversity & disparity will be malleable enough to ensure he can still enjoy the next press junket, complete with all the trimmings without any discomfort ; )

But enough about me, let's get back to the topic at hand, which is NOMOS and how they are moving forward with their day to day while they work internally to promote equality and understanding in their company.  Judith Borowski, the creative director at NOMOS Glashütte was kind enough to answer some of my questions, and you can find that below.  

In addition, at the very end of this brief interview, you will find the text from an open letter from NOMOS which could be thought of as a "statement of principles".


Tempus Fugit - 
We are clearly living in strange times.  While I personally have had a policy of speaking honestly about political, racial and social issues, Tempus Fugit is an independent outlet, and not dependent upon advertising money.  NOMOS does not necessarily have the same flexibility as it is a business dependent upon customers (retail and independent) journalists and influencers to support the brand.  What has the reaction to your efforts been from these various segments?

Judith Borowski -
The reaction from customers and the media to our public stance has been mixed in Germany, but overwhelmingly positive abroad. NOMOS Glashütte is not an organization on the left or the right of the political spectrum, but we do want to promote values that are important to us. After all, we sell watches to customers around the world and we want to promote a culture within NOMOS Glashütte that is tolerant and open-minded. As an independent company, we are not part of any larger corporation—and therefore free to make our own decisions when it comes to these types of issues.





TF -
Here in the US we are also experiencing a sharp uptick in right-wing groups, and regrettably a clear shift in terms of a blurred line between acceptable discourse and outright hate speech.  Companies that have picked a side have received a fair bit of abuse from the opposing side, losing business (and in some instances gaining new customers as well).  Have you seen a shift in your business one way or the other?

JB -
NOMOS Glashütte is a company that has enjoyed strong growth in recent years. For that reason, it is hard to say whether our public stance has had a negative impact on sales; perhaps we could have grown even further—but that is purely speculation. Of course, our position on political developments in Saxony has not been welcomed by everyone. We may have made some enemies, but we have also received a great deal of support. 





TF -
Obviously a company is headed by directors, but it is made up of all of its employees.  How have the staff at NOMOS reacted to the clear message that has been put forward by the management?

JB -
We want to offer support to our employees by giving them the tools and information they need to counteract right-wing polemics. It is our way of stopping politics and public sentiment in Saxony from moving further towards the right, and response from our employees has been very positive. That said, we are not a political party or political institution; we are, first and foremost, a watch manufacturer.




TF - 
How did NOMOS get acquainted with Courage's program?  How has the response been?

JB -
It took us a while to find the right partner to hold our workshops. The Courage association offers political education seminars, and since spring of this year we have been collaborating with them to offer one-day training sessions for our employees. The whole thing started as a pilot project, which means that our feedback has helped shape the content and format of the workshop. The trainers from Courage present strategies for fact-checking arguments that are commonly used by advocates of AfD (Alternative for Germany) and the right-wing movement Pegida, as well as debate training to give participants the skills to challenge right-wing views. This training can also be used to identify extremist ideas, counteract racist views, and to engage in political discussions with friends and family. The feedback so far has been overwhelmingly positive, and there has been a great deal of interest among our employees in attending these voluntary workshops—spaces are currently booked out until March 2019.





TF -
In many ways we are living in a very challenging moment in time, but in many ways this seems to be creating a lot of new opportunities for business leaders to be more socially involved.  Do you feel that this might be an opportunity for NOMOS to be seen as a definitively positive corporate citizen?

JB -
It is not easy to take a public stance on hot-button issues—and in any case, we are a business, not a political organization. We see it more as our civic responsibility; we do not want to just stand by and watch these developments as they unfold. We feel morally obligated to make our voice heard with the public statement: “Stop! This is where we draw the line.” We cannot say whether this decision makes us a positive example for others—but we can say that many other business leaders in Saxony are interested in offering similar workshops, and that when we speak to them, they say the impulse for their interest came from press coverage of our work.





TF -
If there is any lesson to be learned through all of this, what would it be?

JB -
We want to show that Saxony is a German state with a diverse range of voices—and that at NOMOS Glashütte, democracy is something that we truly value. After all, in 1989 there were pro-democracy demonstrations here. Without those demonstrations, without the Fall of the Berlin Wall and the subsequent democratic regime, NOMOS Glashütte could not have been founded. That is why we feel that some problems cannot be restricted to the political sphere, and that we all need to share responsibility so that we as a society are not doomed to repeat our mistakes.

                                                                  Glashütte, December 2018
Open Letter from NOMOS Management on the Situation in Saxony - and the Principles of NOMOS Glashütte
(adapted and updated from the German original published in September 2018)

As the year draws to a close, we would like to inform our friends abroad about an issue we have faced in recent months that has attracted attention—and criticism—in Germany. We manufacture our mechanical timepieces in Glashütte, in the state of Saxony in eastern Germany. Our workshops are not far from Chemnitz, which was the site of far- right protests and open attacks on refugees that erupted in late August of this year.

As an independent manufacturer, it is not our job to set a political agenda. But our values do not permit us to step aside and watch the process of radicalization that has gained a foothold in our region and our home. We condemn all forms of hate and violence—in no uncertain terms. We believe in our democracy and we are ready to defend its principles both in word and deed.

Given these events and guided by our principles, we decided to offer workshops to our employees, the first of which was held on October 23, 2018. In these day-long “Open Saxony” workshops, external experts from the “Courage” organization discuss forms of discrimination, provide factual information on immigration, and role-play scenarios for confronting people with opinions that differ from their own—in whatever form.

Dealing with extremists can be unsettling, we want to arm our employees with information so that—if they wish—they feel at least well-prepared to speak up (or out) and make a difference. Some people in our country have accused NOMOS Glashütte of political indoctrination that harks back to the Stasi era. Nothing could be further from the truth. All of our workshops are completely voluntary and in no way supervised by management. Our primary goal is to give our employee tools to evaluate facts and engage in open, meaningful, and respectful debate.

We believe it is our common duty to defend the democracy which our fellow citizens in Saxony (and elsewhere) fought so hard to achieve in 1989. Without the German reunification, without freedom and democracy, Glashütte would not be the same town that we know and love, nor would it be possible to manufacture our fine mechanical watches as we do here today.

Furthermore, we stand in solidarity with our employees—our colleagues—whom many on the far right do not accept for any number of reasons. We say no matter what your skin color, your sexual orientation, your age, or your religious affiliation may be, you are all welcome here.

NOMOS Glashütte is neither to the right or left of the political spectrum; but we do stand for democracy, a global mindset, and tolerance. Racism and intolerance have no place in our company.

Sincerely,
NOMOS Management



Roland Schwertner    Uwe Ahrendt    Judith Borowski


Sunday, November 25, 2018

Shut Up and Make Watches! Why You Should Buy A NOMOS

Courtesy of NOMOS

Business is a funny thing.  And the watch business can be downright hilarious.  And part of the current comedy (in my eyes) is a stance taken by NOMOS of Glashütte to try and bring some calm, logical discussion to a very tense, very confrontational, and a downright illogical situation.

NOMOS has taken the rather serious step of actually COMMUNICATING with their employees about the current political climate in East Germany, particularly Saxony.  Curious to relate, in reading and hearing about it thousands of miles away, it is a situation that could just as easily be taking place here in the US.  And in some places it is.

Let's start off with some of the basics:

1.   In recent times, the AfD (Alternative for Germany) has grown in popularity in the former East Germany, particularly in Glashütte, where Britain's Independent noted in a related article that upwards of 1/3 of the local residents voted for the AfD.  (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/indyventure/east-german-nomos-glashuette-racism-far-right-afd-a8621611.html)  

2.  NOMOS felt compelled to take action to clearly identify where they, as a company, stood.  In one instance putting up a banner outside their headquarters stating:
“We are ticking internationally” 

3.  But then NOMOS took things a step further, and began offering workshops designed to raise awareness as to the potential pitfalls of blindly following a particular ideology.  And they are to be commended for actually seeking out experts in the area and bringing in Courage, an organization based in Dresden, to offer these sessions.

SHUT UP AND DRIBBLE
(or shut up and make watches, but the meaning is much the same).
So that's the background.  But now let's get back to the comedy portion of our program.  And that is the coverage of my colleagues who write about watches in both the fourth and fifth estate, or more specifically the lack thereof.  Let's just say with a few exceptions, it's been crickets.  And that is really a shame. You do not have to agree with the stand that NOMOS has taken, but it is news.  And it is infinitely more worthy of your attention and coverage than covering a horse race in Kentucky, the launch of a new SWATCH in Shanghai, or who wore what on the red carpet.  Really?  Who gives a shit?!?  Oh, that's right!  The person writing the check in the PR office of brand X!

I would like to share a video put out by Caseback Watches on YouTube, as this was one of the few people apparently willing to weigh in -




The beauty of being independent, is that you can act independently.  And I will throw my lot in with NOMOS on this one.  NOMOS is to be commended not just for making a statement of principles.  That would be easy enough.  But with these in house sessions facilitated by Courage, they are working to create an environment where their employees will feel safe, valued, and appreciated, regardless of where they come from.  This is more than just creating a mission statement, I mean let's be honest, just about every organization has one.  But with their commitment, NOMOS is living their values.  And while it is easy to say "big deal, it's just one company!", well, that's how every great movement starts, one person, one group at a time.

I have reached out to the folks at NOMOS for further comment and for more background, and promise to report it all without fear or favor.

As I've said in the past, a brand is not just a name, a history, a latest model, a paid celebrity ambassador.  A brand is, most of all, the people who work there.  And I suppose that I am idealistically naive, but I tend to spend my money (particularly money on the things that I don't necessarily need) on things made by people that stand for something beyond just a quick profit.  

And owing to their living values, NOMOS will be my next watch purchase, as these are values I champion myself.  And no, I won't shut up and write about watches.





Wednesday, October 10, 2018

Wempe and NOMOS are Kaputt

So you've probably read it elsewhere, but I thought I'd give it to you with a little bit of commentary.

Wempe have dropped the bomb and NOMOS will no longer be carried there.  Wempe's contention, and a fair one, is that they have worked pretty hard (and for a pretty long time) with NOMOS, several now iconic and sought-after limited editions.  Both sides have put in time and effort.  But it is also safe to say that nothing is forever, and here is the proof.

The key reasons cited by Wempe include:

A.  Chrono 24 for factory authorized refurbished watches
B.  Chronext for factory authorized new watches

In essence, too much availability online, an abandonment of what made the brand special.  And a big part of what made the brand special was that you couldn't get it just anywhere.  

On the one hand, it would be more than fair for NOMOS to say that this is the way it is, sorry if you don't like it (which it appears that they did).  

But on the other hand, NOMOS is not exactly bursting in multiple retail locations, particularly here in North America.  Moreover, a lot of these locations are not exactly red-hot, and when you multiply that by the "chain" reality - Tourneau, for example, it gets dicier.  
Again, I live and work near two retail outposts for NOMOS and they are not exactly "jumping" at the moment.

It's interesting, because a lot of these realities were already existing before Wempe decided to throw in the towel.  NOMOS has had their own online distribution for several years, and at least here in the US they have been sold through Watch Buys for quite some time in addition to all of the other retail stores they have/have had.  And with the weird church and state mash-up that is the Hodinkee media (we'll tell you what to buy) retail (and then we'll sell it to you) model it is safe to say that the way watches are bought and sold continues (and will continue) to evolve and change.  Sometimes for the better, and sometimes for the worse.

Having said that, it also underscores a key word which I do feel gets lost, misplaced, and leveraged from time to time -
Partnership.  A partnership implies that two (or more) entities are working together towards a mutually beneficial outcome.  And what that used to mean is that a brand and a retail partner would work together to make good things happen.  Co-op advertising, in-store brand events and promotions, etc.  But some interesting things happened right around 2008.  A few retailers started to display what can only be described as extreme avarice.  Their feeling was that they were spending time and money to promote a brand and, damn it, they deserved a better, bigger slice of the pie.  Now what at least two of these retailers that I know of personally failed to mention in their hand-wringing tirade was this - they were actively discounting the watches by 30% off of the suggested retail price.  So it created a perfect storm.  Brands needed the retail outlets, and the retail outlets needed product.  But the retail outlets now said things like -
"sure, we'll carry your watches, but we won't pay for them.  At least not until after we sell them!"  And thus the golden age of memo was born.  

Memo.  I've written about it before, but in case you missed it, here is a basic outline:

1.  Brand is very, very anxious to be in retail store X.  Retail store X is well known in a major metro area and turns a LOT of product. 

2.  X agrees to take the watches, but they won't pay for it.  But don't worry, they will pay you after they sell them.

3.  Not really.  They will not tell you that they sold something.  You will have to send someone to count all of the watches in their safe, provide proof that they have, in fact, sold the watches, provide an invoice, and....

WAIT

You will be extremely lucky if you are paid within 90 days.

And that is pretty much where we find ourselves now.  

So the bigger question really becomes, how can a brand afford to be in a retail store in the first place?

But let's look at it from the other side -

1.  The store commits showcase space, training for staff, and local advertising budget.  In the case of a bigger brand, particularly one from the groups, the store will have to commit to a 30/30/30 schedule of payments.  Keep in mind, many retail partners will avoid payment as long as they can.  In some situations this is understandable - they have payroll, expenses, etc.  

2.  The store frequently will have the customer coming in for exactly the one watch that they do not have.  As the store, you get a very quick understanding as to just how valuable you really are to the brand.

3.  You will frequently be undercut by your friendly (and not so friendly) competitors not only in your backyard, but around the country.

The situation with Wempe and NOMOS is really not unique, it happens every day around the world.  But when you see a partnership of that many years thrown out so readily?  It tells you that things have changed.  Whether it is for the better, or for the worse?

That remains to be seen.  

But one last thing that I think NOMOS and other brands don't realize is that they have taken the problems with retail, and transferred them to a different format.  Because the realities of the game have not changed - there are only so many watch customers out there.  So regardless of what medium you are selling the watches - brick and mortar or online, if you over saturate the market, you will be in exactly the same predicament, just in a different format.