Reheated Leftovers - The Rebirth, Rise, and Fall of (Daniel) JEANRICHARD

I was having one of my semi-infrequent conversations with the sales director of a Swiss brand (no names!), and part of the conversation was about the recent trend towards (trying) to resurrect dormant (or dead) brands. His contention was that it was a great idea if you had an established brand and you brought in the dormant brand to offer more diverse options (such as those mapped out by Breitling's CEO) to cover more price points. I won't go into my feedback on this, and as I am not currently retained by his brand it doesn't really matter whether he follows my advice or not ; )

But it did get me thinking of one of the more unfortunate triumph-turned-failures of the last 15 years. Long story short - not all brand resurrections "stick". So as we get ready for the Geneva shows, I thought I'd reheat this cautionary tale...

JEANRICHARD IS BACK, BABY!!!

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

After a quiet 5 year sleep, the dream is finally a reality - Sleeping Beauty has awoken and ready to take on the watch world again!

Of course if you've checked your calendar, you realize that while this is not The Onion, it's also not actual fact.

JEANRICHARD lives on as an example of how to build, and then wipe out goodwill in the press and the watch fan base in three short years.  

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

Let's hop in the WABAC Machine to those thrilling days of yesteryear - 2012. Jean Richard, which would later change its name to JEANRICHARD had bobbed up on the surface of Watch Town's picturesque Lake Whatif.

I wrote a fairly (I thought) innocuous piece about it.
Curious to relate, I got a very warm and fuzzy email from the newly minted head of JEANRICHARD North America inviting me down to Los Angeles in January in a few weeks to view the new collection.

And thus began my personal obsession with all things JEANRICHARD. My interactions with the JR folks were an early lesson that relationships with watch brand folk are more frequently than not, transactional. Which in and of itself is not such a tragedy, but underscores the transitional nature of the reality of life working as a brand manager, sales manager or even CEO - you are more often than not simply a place holder waiting to receive your pink slip.

The marketing plan behind JEANRICHARD was, well, baffling. Brand partnerships included a (literal) tight rope walker, a B list actor, multiple rugby teams and players and the coup de grâce - Miss France herself back in 2016. A few curious facts about the arc of JEANRICHARD partnerships - they went from global (including the Arsenal Football Club), and petered out to almost exclusively French ones.

So what went wrong? Well, as early as 2014 brand loyalists were pointing fingers and those who hadn't already jumped ship were plotting their escape routes. In 2013 GP had made their triumphant return to BaselWorld and in an equally impressive booth right next-door was JR. The next year, the JR booth had shrunk to half its size. By 2015 pretty much everyone had departed, and the entire JR operation had been compressed into ONE room which looked like a storage closet had exploded inside of it, with a harried PR person (external) in tears as she handed visitors baseball hats, year-old catalogs and looked as if she was about to walk out herself.

And then JR was put to sleep, and Prince Charming still has not shown up to awaken her with a kiss (or massive cash injection).

But really, those are more the effects. Let's talk about the causes -

1. Cockiness
Interestingly, the brand management was very good at making quick friendships, but then forgetting that the watch business is a relationship business. Retail partners were frequently left screwed when the grey market would (not infrequently) be flooded with the same product that they had just purchased for their stores. This then trickled down to the customer, who felt like a total rube for paying full price 2 weeks prior only to find it on a grey market super-store website for 50% off. And finally, we members of the press. Those of us who were early supporters were jettisoned once more "attractive" outlets came into view. Curious to relate? Once those big outlets had sucked all the money they could out of JR, the moved on to the next warm body.

2. Short term tunnel vision
The brain trust at JR decided if they could sell 100 pieces, then surely they could sell 10,000 at an even higher price. Moreover, if people are happy with black, silver, blue, green and aubergine (I owned and loved that one), then let's have 500 different SKUs!

3. They felt the need to have the best looking date at the Prom
Step 1 - get a partner
Step 2 - get a better looking partner (and 86 the first partner)
Step 3 - get an even better looking partner (and 86 the second partner)
Step 4 - get dumped and go back to the first partner and act as if they were always their first choice. I spoke to several retail partners who felt that way - and I certainly felt that way as a member of the press.

4. Refusal to admit that mistakes were made, and refusal to adjust the plan
Watch brands make knuckle-headed decisions several times a day. The trick is to recognize when things are not going to right themselves, and GO BACK to the plan that was working.


Here's the irony - there are STILL a lot of people who even though they got burned, would likely embrace JEANRICHARD again. For my part, I would be the leery jilted partner in the Rom Com who would have to be won over again by the end of the movie.


JEANRICHARD could still be awakened, could still be something, but it will require a good, hard look at what went wrong, and a cautious, thoughtful approach. If my memory is correct, before he bought and reinvigorated Girard-Perregaux, Daniel Jean Richard was the first jewel in the Macaluso family crown. It deserved a better fate than the one it is currently enduring. Let's hope someone, somewhere is ready to salvage what truly could be an interesting brand.

When Reality Doesn't Quite Match Our Expectations

The not huge, but not insignificant scandal (lets be honest) that has caused the cancelation / postponement of ONLY Watch until (at least) next year is at this point hardly news. But what is still proving interesting - at least to this guy, is the utter lack of self awareness shown by the ONLY WATCH organization. Now, I am in no way casting aspersions on Mr. Pettavino's original intentions when he launched ONLY WATCH. Nor am I presuming that he has been anything but above board with his stewardship of ONLY WATCH. I even spoke of him and his mission in glowing terms when the Naldis and I presented him with the Writing Wrongs award at BaselWorld in 2015. With all of that said, I do question the unwillingness of Mr. Pettavino and ONLY WATCH to give any substantive answers to questions that have been put forward. Why this story is embarrassing to cover, is that this is information that the shining luminaries of Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates have had access to for years, and some have even offered up theories fueled by invigorating amounts of alcohol in the lounges of Basel and Geneva. But in truth, these same "truth tellers" would never dream of biting one of the well-manicured hands that feeds them. And this is why it is even more embarrassing to put the words watch and journalist together to describe what passes as honest and unbiased coverage of the good and great that control the means of production of Watch Town. The person responsible for doing the heavy lifting for some of my allegedly more erudite colleagues is none other than a watch collector, who goes by the nom de montre Santa Laura. It is equally embarrassing to include the words watch and journalist in the same sentence when reading some of the tut-tuts put forth from some of those who feel that we should avoid any criticism of the brands or organizations that offer us elegant trips, fabulous meals, and four star accommodations. Thank you, Santa Laura, for having the intestinal fortitude to call that out. I would be less than forthright if I did not admit to having enjoyed two of these wonderful press junkets myself in 2015 and 2018 respectively. And I would also be less than forthright if I didn't disclose that I have had two trips revoked by brands because I was, apparently,not always as "supportive" as I could (read should) be.

If we who write about watches are being honest about ONLY WATCH writ large? It started as a noble idea. And it is a testimony to Mr. Pettavino's passion, devotion to his late son, and his unwavering persistence that he convinced so many brands to participate and developed it into one of the biggest events on the calendar, all while raising an impressive amount for research. But the cynical side of me feels that what it has devolved into these past three editions is a marketing event for the brands who participate by donating unique pieces for auction. It goes without saying that charity does not exactly start at home for many of the participating brands. In all honesty (and I speak from experience) many would refuse to support a local orphanage, or even cancer research in general. And yet en masse they all, to a brand, offer up one-of-a-kind pieces for auction to benefit research for a disease that touches a fairly small percentage of the population. And by no means does that make it any less worthy, but it underscores the reality that for many of the brands, whether they will allow themselves to admit it or not, ONLY WATCH is in their estimation a marketing vehicle, and it also might help explain why Audemars Piguet was ready, willing, and able to quit the field with no further explanation offered.

So what comes next? This is hard to say. I am hopeful that in the coming 10 months there will be clear and meaningful updates about the fiscal status of ONLY WATCH, that all doubts will be erased and that it will continue on as an important fund raiser for a worthy cause. But in fairness to anyone who may have questions, I would ask that those who occupy the loftier heights of Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates not simply dismiss any attempt at investigative reporting out of hand. It is a disservice to ONLY WATCH, to the brands who participate in the event, to your colleagues, and most importantly? To the readers who come to you for honest, unbiased opinion. 

And I guess that's at least a few more press trips I won't be going on ; )

Enjoy your watches!

Watches and Wondering - Waiting for Godot

With the dearth of new releases out there, and the notable silence from the fair's organizers, it is seeming less and less likely that 2022 (at least March/April) will see the return of large scale, in-person watch fairs in Geneva.

Credit: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0276613/

On the one hand, it appears that the latest COVID surge has peaked in several countries. But reaching the peak does not put us back to a safe infection level... at least not yet. Geneva is one of the strictest cantons in Switzerland in terms of health and safety policy, and for all of the foreign buyers and press that hope to come to attend a show there are quite a few hoops that they will have to jump through - I say this having travelled in September and November. And that's just to get into Switzerland. I will also make clear that I agree with Switzerland's stance. Which I guess means that Novak Djocovic won't be making any personal appearances at the Hublot booth in the near future.

China and Hong Kong represent the largest block of customers for Richemont and most likely LVMH and Kering. For those folks, getting to Switzerland is one thing. Coming back home? Well, that's quite the other. Lengthy quarantine requirements have marked a significant drop in travel both from and to this region. So with all of that being said, I don't expect that a lot of these folks will be opting to attend. And let's not even get started with the US, where (for better or worse) public health and safety has become more of a political issue than, well, a health and safety issue. Unless the Swiss government opts to drop the vaccination requirements for entry at the Zurich, Basel, and Geneva airports, a large swath of folks from North America will be staying home. 

That leaves the Middle East, Africa, South America and parts of Europe. This is not to say that these are not important markets or customers, but it is to say that they do not, unfortunately, represent the same percentage of turnover for the brands.

And lastly, there are the organizers of the show itself. Watches and Wonders, along with its predecessor the SIHH, went to great lengths to create an atmosphere of not only exclusivity, but exclusion in the past. And while it might be "the only game in town", I give Watches and Wonders about as much consideration as I do NOMOS
Glashütte, which is to say I don't consider it at all.

Reheated Leftovers - The Dunning-Kruger Effect

This first ran in April of last year, but judging from the refusal of the denizens of Watch Town to accept and live in reality, it seems like a good time to re-heat these leftovers. While this post was primarily focusing on the rapacious nature of the big groups and the Spring shows, it speaks even more urgently to the glaring lack of self-awareness of the shot callers of Watch Town.

So pour yourself a glass of red, we're having leftovers -

Like any crisis, COVID-19 has laid bare a lot of realities that were probably always there, but that could continue on until external events made it impossible for them to remain unacknowledged.

For those of you unfamiliar, the Dunning-Kruger effect, its name is derived from a study conducted by David Dunning and Justin Kruger back just before the turn of the century (1999). The study exposed a very interesting paradox - in several instances average performing people tended to place themselves in the upper echelons in terms of performance. Curious to relate? In many instances, high performing people tended to down-play their abilities, ranking themselves lower on the scale than their abilities justified.

For those of you who are more visual (and enjoy video over text) here is a fun look at the Dunning-Kruger effect courtesy of Trace Dominguez and After Skool -

Cognitive Bias exists everywhere, and we all struggle with it on many levels.  The recent devolution of BaselWorld into a full-blown 3-ring circus is a great example.  And I want to jump right out of the gate and make clear that BaselWorld is only one of the Ringleaders of this train wreck.  

In Tent Number 1:

Remember the bold words of one mayor of Watch Town who insisted that his brand was special, and didn't actually need a show?  And then like a carpet bagger tried to ease south to Geneva to announce (what in hindsight) was a pretty ham-fisted attempt to grab some press ink with some other like minded mayors for a "mini-show" of carefully curated brands?  (editor's note: along with the use of "my friend" and "timepiece" could we agree to ban the term "curated"?  It's complete and utter bullshit.)  

In Tent Number 2:

If Animal Farm were ever to be re-told with denizens of Watch Town as the protagonists, the advent of the FHH show would be familiar.

George Orwell Animal Farm

Here's the thing, you don't tug on Superman's cape.  It was pretty foolhardy of the BaselWorld organizers to assume that they could try to give Rolex and Patek an "Atomic Wedgie" -

Courtesy of the Simpsons

Now I cannot claim to know or understand every thought process or motivation that runs through the storied hallways of Big Green in Geneva.  I respect my place in the hierarchy ; )

But what I can say is this - while Rolex, Tudor, Patek and Chanel had every right to pick up their tents and move them south, let's not misconstrue that as a blow for the Proletariat of Watch Town.  The "letter of secession" makes it pretty clear that these four brands made their decision based on what would work for them.  Several other not-so-fancy brands may not be invited to join the party.

And ladies and gentlemen, train your eyes to the center ring here in the Big Top:
BaselWorld was clearly living in a different reality than a lot of the larger brands that were willing to continue to pay the price to be there.  And truthfully?  These are some of the real victims in this three-ring shit-show.  If you are a Richemont brand?  You are safe, Watches and Wonders has you covered.  If you are viewed "luxurious and exclusive enough"?  Not a problem, FHH will certainly deem you worthy and you can join them.  But what about some of those other big, notable, and dare I say it - POPULAR brands that actually sell a LOT of watches?  Where do they get to go?  

You get the idea.

Now I still like my personal crack-pot theory that Hayek the Younger has been sitting back in his stronghold in the Biel/Bienne hinterlands, biding his time and waiting to come back to BaselWorld. But then again, I have frequently been guilty of the Dunning-Kruger Effect ; )

Hey Kids, Let's Put on a Show!

And so it has come to this.  With several brands still licking their financial wounds after being strong-armed by fair organizers from the two big shows to make "amicable" settlements, there is now a third show slated for Lausanne, and we are all presuming that Rolex, LVMH, Bucherer and others are going to keep their word and head south and be next door to Watches and Wonders - or maybe be formally asked to join.  And this is presuming that Hayek the Younger doesn't opt to try and do SWATCHVILLE in Zurich at the same time.

Now I like BaselWorld as much as the next guy. Hell, I'd go so far as to say I like it more than most people. But the sad truth is that coming up with a new name is not going to wash the bad taste out of the mouths of several brands who had their feet held to the financial fire by the fair organizers.

So let's break them down, shall we?

Let's assume you are a journalist or retail partner. You decide to start your day in Basel -

Hour Universe:
BaselWorld - "The Big Payback" has been rushed through an extreme makeover that probably wasn't the best considered of plans. I suppose the idea was if you change the name of the fair, maybe brands will forget how they got hosed out of thousands of dollars for exactly ZERO services, and mountains of headaches. Remember that whole "if you take a negotiated deal we'll roll some of those fees to next year"? Well, I might be wrong, but I suspect when BaselWorld announced that the fair had moved from quacking duck to a a l'orange, so did the hopes of the brands of recovering any of their fees. While it may indeed be "We Time", I doubt very seriously that "we" will be paying back/forward any money from this past year. So pucker-up Buttercup, it's really Their Time.  

Now in fairness, if I have read the promotional materials correctly, they are stating that if the fair cannot go forward, monies will be refunded. But for many brand managers and owners that I have talked to, they are not feeling particularly warm and fuzzy about the whole idea. The only fuzzy most of them got from the organizers this past year was the fuzzy end of the lollipop.

Okay, now jump on a tram and get yourself to the SBB station and hop on the first thing smoking south. Allow yourself around 3 to 3.5 hours for transit between stations. Let's be honest, you will be better served to plan your whole day there.

We already know about Watches and Wonders which may have a Rolex/Patek/LVMH mini-show next door. But now that Hour Universe is back like the ghost of last night's stiffy, my money is on the big dogs being invited to join Watches and Wonders.

Now let's hop BACK on the train and zip over to Lausanne!

And now for my personal favorite (yes, that is sarcasm) - Imagination! 

Now with a name like that, well, I mean, just imagine...

Well, you will actually need to leave quite a bit up to your imagination, because a visit to their website will tell you exactly nothing. Actually, that's not fair. It will provide you with a zingy tag-line:

One World One Vision

It will also inform you that it is Coming Soon with a count-down clock.

Now on the one hand, you could argue that the fair is nearly 6 months away - c'mon, that's half a year!  Well, yes and no.  If the "count down" clock is anything to go by, it is 155 days away.  In fact, a closer look at the website does not exactly give a date. So perhaps the countdown clock is counting down to the day the fair dates will be announced? 

Spoiler alert - one of the brands I work with forwarded me the info - Imagination will take place from April 6 - April 11.  

Now consider that it is being held in a fairly large space that has all the warmth and charm of an airplane hangar.  Just imagine!

But then again, it could prove to be the "Richard Clayderman" of the April shows. He wasn't sexy, but if the commercial back in 1984 selling his albums was anything to go by, he was THE MOST POPULAR PIANO PLAYER IN THE WORLD!

From the original album cover

Oh, one last thing...

We still have that pesky problem of COVID-19...

Basel Is The New Lausanne...

Hi Boys and Girls!  Let's hop in the WABAC Machine and travel to those thrilling days of yesteryear, and go waaayyyyy back in time to...

Courtesy of the Rocky and Bullwinkle Show

May 22nd or so, 2020! 

Now I realize, that was a long, long time ago, but if you scrunch up your eyes real tight and concentrate, you might recall that the brain trust behind BaselWorld decided that the city of Basel  was the culprit, and if they changed the name from BaselWorld to Swiss Watch Week, and moved it down the road to Lausanne everything would be "New and Improved!"

Courtesy of CBS

Which now, in hindsight, appears to be about as well-thought out as New Coke was back in 1985. 

Apparently Basel was toxic (high priced hotels, less-than-friendly tram conductors yelling at Japanese and Chinese visitors - in German, and $12.00 sausage from a street vendor across the street from Hall 1). 

Well, apparently now Lausanne is so last month! The shot-callers decided that, in fact, Basel is a GREAT location, and they would change the name again!  And HOURUNIVERSE was born!

      HOURUNIVERSE: IT'S WE TIME!  

I have to be honest, I had to double check the calendar this morning to make sure it was not April 1st, but no, there is a website and everything. So straight from the Bureau of Not-So-Great Ideas, here is the press release just as I received it -

MCH is creating a new concept for a global platform for the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries: HOURUNIVERSE.

Two months to listen, analyse, identify; and create. An innovative platform to meet today's needs. To unite and support a whole community that wants to regroup, make a new start and is receptive to change. Open, modern, experimental, inclusive, user-friendly, interconnected, the MCH teams have put all their expertise and the feedback and input from customers and other stakeholders into giving birth to a new platform concept. An extended ecosystem   Live and virtual, active all year round, benefiting from the latest technologies for content, and for networking, the new platform is dedicated to players in the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries, but not exclusively. The new concept is a B2B2C meeting point that places the customer at the heart of its focus, reversing the order of the past. The entire platform is thought out and designed around the customer. This applies to all players of the distribution chain, traditional and online retailers, including those of the CPO (certified Pre-Owned).  Flanking them, the platform will build an extended ecosystem with watch, jewellery and gemstone brands, developers of new solutions in distribution, marketing and points of sale, and other players of the industry. A global, varied, interconnected, unified world. A 365 platform, with an annual live meeting Named HOURUNIVERSE, the platform will be digitally active throughout the year and will host an annual live show.  A community platform that creates bridges between buyers and sellers and all the players in the industry, it is also a place that encourages exchanges, information-sharing, content creation, reflection through talks and conferences that also provide visibility for brands and their products.  In April 2021, the community will meet at HOURUNIVERSE in Basel, Switzerland. The show will be aligned with the watchmaking events in Geneva, in the best interests of the international community which will only have to travel to Switzerland once a year. The show will reinforce contacts thanks to new tools, the creation of content, a maximum of Touch & Feel experiences, as well as moments of conviviality, networking and fully integrated events. Along with this new customer-oriented approach, a new competitive hospitality concept will also be an integral part of the packages proposed, and those associated players of Basel life will not be exempt from this involvement. The detailed concept of HOURUNIVERSE will be unveiled late August in combination with the start of marketing.   HOURUNIVERSE: IT'S WE TIME!

I can only assume that they have not read Tony Bourdain's seminal memoir on the restaurant business - Kitchen Confidential. While it does focus on the restaurant business, it is quite pertinent to the (sorry) shit show that is currently unfolding at MCH. I refer you to Mr. Bourdain's thoughts on what he referred to as: 

Owner's Syndrome and Other Medical Anommalies -

...when business drops, or fails to improve, he panics, starts looking for the quick fix. He thrashes around in an escalating state of agitation, tinkering with concept, menu, various marketing schemes. As the end draws near, these ideas are replaced by more immediately practical ones: close on Sundays...cut back staff...shut down lunch. Naturally, as the operation becomes more schizophrenic - one week French, one week Italian - as the poor schmuck tries one thing after another like a rat trying to escape a burning building, the already elusive dining public begins to detect the unmistakable odor of uncertainty, fear and approaching death. 

Now for the less cynical of you out there, A Blog To Watch has an exclusive interview, so if you're looking for a sweeter take on this slow moving train wreck, I suggest you head over there.

What to say? Well, I think that MCH is really not living in reality. And by that I mean that they do not even remotely fathom how pissed-off watch brands are, nor do they seem to remember how they screwed several brands out of thousands of Swiss francs that they could not reasonably afford to lose. They had no problem playing hard-ass with the people who were supposed to be their partners. It is, if I am honest, not unlike that abusive relationship. Your friends keep telling you to leave, but you say "You just don't understand! I can change them!"  Well, I guess we will see just how forgiving the people are who got hosed.  My guess? Not very.

The Dunning-Kruger Effect

Like any crisis, COVID-19 has laid bare a lot of realities that were probably always there, but that could continue on until external events made it impossible for them to remain unacknowledged.

For those of you unfamiliar, the Dunning-Kruger effect, its name is derived from a study conducted by David Dunning and Justin Kruger back just before the turn of the century (1999). The study exposed a very interesting paradox - in several instances average performing people tended to place themselves in the upper echelons in terms of performance. Curious to relate? In many instances, high performing people tended to down-play their abilities, ranking themselves lower on the scale than their abilities justified.

For those of you who are more visual (and enjoy video over text) here is a fun look at the Dunning-Kruger effect courtesy of Trace Dominguez and After Skool -

Cognitive Bias exists everywhere, and we all struggle with it on many levels.  The recent devolution of BaselWorld into a full-blown 3-ring circus is a great example.  And I want to jump right out of the gate and make clear that BaselWorld is only one of the Ringleaders of this train wreck.  

In Tent Number 1:

Remember the bold words of one mayor of Watch Town who insisted that his brand was special, and didn't actually need a show?  And then like a carpet bagger tried to ease south to Geneva to announce (what in hindsight) was a pretty ham-fisted attempt to grab some press ink with some other like minded mayors for a "mini-show" of carefully curated brands?  (editor's note: along with the use of "my friend" and "timepiece" could we agree to ban the term "curated"?  It's complete and utter bullshit.)  

In Tent Number 2:

If Animal Farm were ever to be re-told with denizens of Watch Town as the protagonists, the advent of the FHH show would be familiar.

George Orwell Animal Farm

Here's the thing, you don't tug on Superman's cape.  It was pretty foolhardy of the BaselWorld organizers to assume that they could try to give Rolex and Patek an "Atomic Wedgie" -

Courtesy of the Simpsons

Now I cannot claim to know or understand every thought process or motivation that runs through the storied hallways of Big Green in Geneva.  I respect my place in the hierarchy ; )

But what I can say is this - while Rolex, Tudor, Patek and Chanel had every right to pick up their tents and move them south, let's not misconstrue that as a blow for the Proletariat of Watch Town.  The "letter of secession" makes it pretty clear that these four brands made their decision based on what would work for them.  Several other not-so-fancy brands may not be invited to join the party.

And ladies and gentlemen, train your eyes to the center ring here in the Big Top!:
BaselWorld was clearly living in a different reality than a lot of the larger brands that were willing to continue to pay the price to be there.  And truthfully?  These are some of the real victims in this three-ring shit-show.  If you are a Richemont brand?  You are safe, Watches and Wonders has you covered.  If you are viewed "luxurious and exclusive enough"?  Not a problem, FHH will certainly deem you worthy and you can join them.  But what about some of those other big, notable, and dare I say it - POPULAR brands that actually sell a LOT of watches?  Where do they get to go?  

You get the idea.

Now I still like my personal crack-pot theory that Hayek the Younger has been sitting back in his stronghold in the Biel/Bienne hinterlands, biding his time and waiting to come back to BaselWorld. But then again, I have frequently been guilty of the Dunning-Kruger Effect ; )

How The Statue of Liberty Play Could Save BaselWorld

Now for readers not familiar with American (i.e. not Association or Rugby or Australian) Football, take a quick moment to view the clip below before moving forward -


For those of you who want even more detail -
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Statue_of_Liberty_play

In soccer (Association Football) you would probably compare it with the Cruyff Turn -

And for those of you unfamiliar wanting more background -
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cruyff_Turn

Essentially, it is a sleight of hand or misdirection to create an opportunity when your opponent is looking the other way.

So what do trick plays in sports have to do with what was the world's most important watch show?

Well, imagine if you will, a world where MCH (i.e. BaselWorld) realized that desperate times would require desperate measures.  And then, imagine, if you will, a group that has not been as successful in recent times as it had in the past.  A group that would say jump, and other groups, brands, retailers and pretty much every journalist in the world would ask - "How high?" that now is isolated and on its own.  Switzerland is a pretty large Monopoly board, and even though logic would lead you to believe that the natural choice would be to head to Geneva, the reality is that Hall 1 could sufficiently host SWATCH and all of the other independent brands that have now been left behind. 

This would, of course, be the ultimate Statue of Liberty play.  It would require MCH to reach out to SWATCH and offer a true partnership.  Now the obvious argument would be that without Patek, Rolex, and LVMH there is nothing left in the fair.  Well, maybe yes and maybe no.  Consider other groups (Festina, Movado) who left the fair in the past, that if the environment was a bit more inviting, and the associated fees more realistic, they might consider coming back.  I have gone to a LOT of BaselWorld fairs.  There have been a LOT of brands that have been in and out and in the fair again.  A fair with just the folks left behind is not going to attract much of anyone, particularly if BaselWorld sticks to the proposed dates of January/February.  

But, what if Hayek the younger has been sitting in Biel, quietly calculating just such a move? Stranger things have happened.  And in truth?  We passed strange globally about 6 weeks ago.

I realize it's a wild, hare-brained theory, but what if?

Left Behind...

What we know:

Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chopard, Chanel, Bulgari, TAG Heuer and Zenith have officially left the building (or more specifically, Hall 1).

What we can be pretty sure of:

Seiko, Casio, Citizen (which actually includes more than a few other brands including Frederique Constant and Alpina among others), Bell & Ross, Carl F. Bucherer are probably going to sling their hooks and "Take their talents south, to Lake Geneva". And with those brands, any hope of having a fair in Basel will go with them.

BUT -

There's in fact, more than just one more twist in the tail to this shit-show. Because it bears mentioning that saying you want to leave BaselWorld does not, de facto, mean you will be welcomed with open arms to the Geneva Fair to be Named Later. Because the operating name says it all - FHH. Now it is important to note the language used by the initial breakaway group in their "See ya, wouldn't wanna' be ya" letter:

The new show, which will be linked to Watches & Wonders, organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, is to take place at Palexpo. The aim is to offer partner brands the best possible professional platform, applying a shared vision to successfully meet future challenges in the watchmaking industry. It will also give crucial prominence to the sector’s expertise and innovations, both in Switzerland and internationally.

Other brands may also be added, according to terms that have not yet been defined. This new event will be geared predominantly towards retailers, the press and VIP customers.

And that is the kicker here.  Because when we talk about the five brands that initially split off, they clearly fit into a certain demographic in terms of "acceptable suitors" to join the Richemont circus.  And then, this is where it gets really interesting and there will be a chasm that opens between "luxe" brands and the rest.  And again, reading simply what is there and not even between the lines -
This new event will be geared predominantly towards retailers, the press and VIP customers.
So that means that a lot of press, a lot of potential retailers and pretty much all of the "great unwashed" (i.e. watch enthusiasts), are not really of interest.  

So we shall wait, and we shall see.

LVMH Heads South

Shamelessly Borrowed from the WorldWide infoweb 

News, honestly more anticipated than surprising, has made its way to the North Shore this morning confirming what most of us have seen as inevitable -

The Swiss watch Manufactures belonging to the LVMH Group, the world leader in luxury, have in turn decided to leave Baselworld in order to join the other flagship brands of the Swiss watch industry in Geneva from 2021 onwards.

That's the as yet to be formally named FHH spinoff, for those of you playing at home without a score card and game program.  Now there are some of you out there that might equate this with LeBron James taking his talents to  South Beach, but I think in all fairness this was inevitable.  

Watch Town is a very funny and peculiar place.  It is filled with some very intelligent, hardworking, and charming people.  And, like any other industry (and perhaps more than many) it is filled with ego.  And all of us who inhabit Watch Town are guilty of it to some extent.

I personally loved going to BaselWorld.  It was like the Super Bowl, 4th of July, World Cup, Christmas and Olympics all landed on your birthday.  It was fun.  Even from my first visit as a member of the press back in 2011 when almost nobody had time for me or knew who I was, it was exciting.  And yes, the fair was an expensive proposition.  For my first 6 BaselWorlds I stayed in Lucerne and commuted back and forth by train as the cost of accommodation for a week, even in a half-way house converted for BaselWeek (recovering addicts temporarily relocated) was of the level that is usually negotiated with the aid of a loaded pistol and a getaway car.  

And in all honesty, does the fair itself really need to cost the brands SOOOOO much money to participate?  I have worked on the other side of the BaselWorld booth as a brand employee, and the amounts demanded for just the booth space were of a level on par with the GDP of a small developing country, and that was just in Hall 2!  Trying to negotiate on certain points was often not unlike trying to purchase the correct exit visa on the East Berlin side at Check Point Charlie circa 1985 -

But Watch Town, although exciting and interesting, is not always populated by angels.  As rapacious and usurious as the brands feel that the fair organization has been these last five years (and in many ways, rightly so), some of those same brands have not exactly been welcoming, inclusive or even interested in the majority of the press, and honestly could not give a toss about the public.  You know, those mythical unicorns that actually BUY WATCHES.  Press appointments are often forgotten or ignored.  Now from the brand employee's point of view, they have a thousand appointments, and hey, some of them might be forgotten or missed, and if you are not the Wall Street Journal or one of the big outlets, we're not going to reschedule.  But to the journalist that spent $2,000 on a plane ticket, another $2,000 for accommodation, add more for food and ground transportation, and let's not forget the time off from work, this is a big deal.  The indifference of some brands to try and accommodate appointments that they (the brands) have messed up is really the height of arrogance.  And for many of us in the Fourth and Fifth Estate, it impacts how we view those brands moving forward.

So short view - it takes two to tango.

But let's get more basic than that -

On a core level, BaselWorld (and Watches and Wonders and the Geneva "fair to be named later") are there to serve the brands.  Not the other way around.  And that is something that BaselWorld lost sight of.  But I truly do not know that the folks in Geneva are going to be any more warm and fuzzy.  Trying to beg, borrow or steal a press credential for the former SIHH was a bit like being a contestant on Survivor.  

Again, the fairs are there to serve the brands.  BUT - the brands participating in these shows are there to serve the press, the retail partners and the public.  And here's an even colder cup of coffee on an already chilly morning - as brands have to cut or curtail their advertising budgets (understandably), the big, shiny watch media outlets that get all of the prime invites and velvet rope access?  Well, they are going to find it harder and harder to keep going.  And one more time for my one special fan out there whispering nasty things about me every chance they get, I do not wish bad luck or lack of success on ANYONE.

Fairs - you need the brands.  Stop making them kiss the ring.

Brands - you need the press and the public.  Stop treating the press like a beauty pageant where you're going to select the most popular boy and girl for the Homecoming/Prom King and Queen and blow everyone else off.

Journalists - it might be time to be a bit more inclusive with your coverage, and here's a crazy idea for one particular outlet - stop trying to charge money to brands who probably can't afford it for coverage in your outlet.  It's a dick move.

I think it is safe to say that we all love watches, maybe we all need to find a way to better share that love?

Stick A Fork In It

Word has now made it's way through the various networks and confirmed by at least 2 outlets, and as I write this I have just received an official confirmation from one of the brands in question.  

The short summary - 
Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Chopard and Chanel have untied their ships from the docks of BaselWorld and have set sail for...

Geneva.

Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb

It would seem that a large block of influential brands that were still holding BaselWorld together have changed their relationship status from "It's Complicated" to "Single and ready to Mingle".  On the surface you could say that it's only five brands.  Well, four of those brands hold down a not-so-insignificant position inside of Hall 1.  

The FHH (Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie) and Rolex would appear to be the drivers of this move, at least if the press release is anything to go by. And no, gentle reader, it did not have to go this way.

So let's understand and embrace some realities:
You Don't Tug On Superman's Cape -
BaselWorld needs Rolex and Patek Philippe one hell of a lot more than Rolex and Patek Philippe need BaselWorld.  Sorry, but that's the truth.  

You Don't Try to Sell a Nickel for a Dime -
MCH and the fair organizers are not the only folks who dropped the ball here.  The city of Basel had numerous opportunities to address the annual gouging that has almost religiously taken place in terms of food and accommodation.  Instead, they opted to throttle the golden goose.  And while I did not study veterinary medicine or avian gynecology, I am fairly certain that dead geese do not lay eggs - gold or otherwise.

Don't Fake the Funk -
BaselWorld will now, unfortunately, fall into the realms of Richard Clayderman -

In all fairness, the US gave France Jerry Lewis, so it seems only fair that France gave us him.

Ultimately, it is going to be a tough proposition to keep going.  Simply put, who is going to fill the space?

I feel somewhat sick to my stomach about this, I wish it hadn't happened, I wish that there was better news.  But again, it did not have to go this way.

Unfortunately, insofar as these five brands go, it is now too late for calmer heads to prevail.  

Here is the release, as it was received -


ROLEX, PATEK PHILIPPE, CHANEL, CHOPARD AND TUDOR LEAVE BASELWORLD.

CREATION OF A NEW WATCH TRADE SHOW IN GENEVA IN COLLABORATION WITH THE FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE.

Geneva, 14 April 2020 – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor leave Baselworld to create a new watch trade show in Geneva with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. The show will be held early April 2021 at Palexpo, at the same time as Watches & Wonders. This departure follows a number of unilateral decisions made without consultation by Baselworld management, including the postponement of the watch show until January 2021, as well as its inability to meet the brands’ needs and expectations.

The new show, which will be linked to Watches & Wonders, organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, is to take place at Palexpo. The aim is to offer partner brands the best possible professional platform, applying a shared vision to successfully meet future challenges in the watchmaking industry. It will also give crucial prominence to the sector’s expertise and innovations, both in Switzerland and internationally.

Other brands may also be added, according to terms that have not yet been defined. This new event will be geared predominantly towards retailers, the press and VIP customers.

Jean-Frédéric Dufour, Chief Executive Officer, Rolex SA, and Board Member, Tudor, said: “We have taken part in Baselworld since 1939. Unfortunately, given the way the event has evolved and the recent decisions made by MCH Group, and in spite of the great attachment we had to this watch show, we have decided to withdraw. Following discussions initiated by Rolex, it seemed only natural to create a new event with partners that share our vision and our endless, unwavering support for the Swiss watchmaking sector. This will allow us to present our new watches in line with our needs and expectations, to join forces and better defend the interests of the industry.”

Thierry Stern, President, Patek Philippe said: “The decision to leave Baselworld was not an easy one to take for me, being the fourth generation of the Stern family to participate to this traditional yearly event. But life evolves constantly, things change and people change as well, whether it is at the level of those responsible for the watch fair organization, the brands or the clients. We constantly have to adapt ourselves, question what we do, since what was right yesterday may not necessarily be valid today!

Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present.
We need to answer the legitimate needs of our retailers, the clients and the press from around the world. They have to be able to discover the new models from Swiss watchmakers each year, at one time, in one place, and this in the most professional manner possible.

That is why, following several discussions with Rolex and in agreement with other participating brands, we have decided to create, all together, a unique event in Geneva, representative of our savoir-faire.“

Frédéric Grangier, CEO of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery said: “Like its partners, CHANEL shares the same independence and the same desire to protect and promote the values, know-how, utmost quality and precision of Swiss Watchmaking. This initiative marks a key milestone in the history of CHANEL Watchmaking and is part of a long-term strategy, which began with the launch of this activity in 1987. This exhibition will allow us to present all of our new creations in an environment that meets our high-quality standards.”

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President Chopard et Cie SA said: “Chopard first exhibited at the Basel fair in 1964 with a stand of some 25 square metres. After careful consideration, our family decided to support the Rolex initiative and retire from Baselworld – a painful decision. The creation of this new watch show in Geneva, in parallel to Watches & Wonders, will allow us to better serve our watchmaking partners and our customers. Through the alliance, these grandes maisons will also be able to collaborate in promoting the values and best interests of Swiss watchmaking.”

Jérôme Lambert, on behalf of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Council said: “The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie is delighted to welcome a new salon which will strengthen the historical Watch & Wonders event in Geneva next year in early April.”

The BRV2-93 GMT Blue

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is another pre-BaselWorld release from Bell & Ross.  It is available on a bracelet (above), as well as a pretty snazzy strap (below) -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Movement :
BR-CAL.303. Automatic mechanical.

Functions:
hours, minutes and central seconds and date.
Second time hand rapid-setting, independent from the hour hand.

Case:
41 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel. Bi-directional bezel with 24-hour scale. Blue and grey two-colour anodised aluminium disc. Screw-down crown. Sapphire case-back.

Dial:
blue sunray. Numerals and indices coated in white Superluminova®. Metal skeletonized Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal:
box-type sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Strap:
grey and blue elastic canvas strap or satin-polished steel.

Buckle:
folding for metal bracelet.

The HYPE Joins BaselWorld!

And...a bit of shameless self-promotion!

Here is the release, as it was received this morning:

MEDIA RELEASE | 19 DECEMBER 2019 «THE HYPE» JOINS BASELWORLD AND BECOMES «THE BASELWORLD WATCH LOUNGE». More than fifteen independent brands have joined together to participate in Baselworld 2020. Grouped under a new banner - The Watch Lounge, they will occupy a new multifaceted space – bright, friendly and open - in Hall 1 South. Baselworld reaffirms its position as the leading business platform serving the watchmaking eco-system, with a variety of formats that reflect the richness and diversity of the industry. BASEL, SWITZERLAND, 19 December 2019 – About fifteen independent watch brands that previously exhibited in a hotel near the show, have decided to join Baselworld in 2020, all grouped together under a new banner - The Watch Lounge. The Watch Lounge thus becomes a new space that complements Les Ateliers (which brings together independent watchmakers) and the redesigned Watch Gallery, which will bring together all manner of companies from the start-up firm pitching its new project to the already more established brands that want to expand their distribution. Friendly, open spaces, the concept of the Watch Lounge under the leadership of Roderich Hess and James Henderson, is based on a more informal atmosphere aimed at bringing together more than fifteen brands with media and collectors in a relaxed and interactive way.  Michel Loris-Melikoff, Managing Director of Baselworld said: «I am delighted to welcome all of these dynamic entrepreneurs to Baselworld. We are continuing our work to transform the show. Baselworld aims to be a community and unifying entity. Listening, dialogue, entrepreneurship, and creativity are essential as we continue to implement our 2020+ strategy and work to make Baselworld not only the best business platform but also the most varied and complete show of its kind.»  James Henderson commented: «When Rod and I had the opportunity to participate in the creation of a new concept for small, independent, and so-called micro brands at Baselworld, we jumped at the opportunity! Baselworld is, and continues to be, the most important watchmaking event in the world. This is the only time in the year that people from all over the world come together to share their passion for watches. We were very impressed by the organisation's desire to create something special, and we look forward to bringing this new format to Baselworld!» By engaging in a constructive and transparent dialogue with the many independent brands who contribute to the richness and diversity of the watch industry, and taking various measures in consultation with them, and thanks to the commitment of Michel Loris-Melikoff, his team and an entire community have worked to strengthen and redeploy the rich and varied ecosystem of independent brands present at Baselworld, the show has repositioned its offers to better meet the expectations of brands. This  has always been carried out with a pragmatic attention to costs that now allow more competitive pricing. Printable media image material is available for download free of charge as part of reporting under the following link: https://www.baselworld.com/en/services/press-mediadatabase