When Reality Doesn't Quite Match Our Expectations

The not huge, but not insignificant scandal (lets be honest) that has caused the cancelation / postponement of ONLY Watch until (at least) next year is at this point hardly news. But what is still proving interesting - at least to this guy, is the utter lack of self awareness shown by the ONLY WATCH organization. Now, I am in no way casting aspersions on Mr. Pettavino's original intentions when he launched ONLY WATCH. Nor am I presuming that he has been anything but above board with his stewardship of ONLY WATCH. I even spoke of him and his mission in glowing terms when the Naldis and I presented him with the Writing Wrongs award at BaselWorld in 2015. With all of that said, I do question the unwillingness of Mr. Pettavino and ONLY WATCH to give any substantive answers to questions that have been put forward. Why this story is embarrassing to cover, is that this is information that the shining luminaries of Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates have had access to for years, and some have even offered up theories fueled by invigorating amounts of alcohol in the lounges of Basel and Geneva. But in truth, these same "truth tellers" would never dream of biting one of the well-manicured hands that feeds them. And this is why it is even more embarrassing to put the words watch and journalist together to describe what passes as honest and unbiased coverage of the good and great that control the means of production of Watch Town. The person responsible for doing the heavy lifting for some of my allegedly more erudite colleagues is none other than a watch collector, who goes by the nom de montre Santa Laura. It is equally embarrassing to include the words watch and journalist in the same sentence when reading some of the tut-tuts put forth from some of those who feel that we should avoid any criticism of the brands or organizations that offer us elegant trips, fabulous meals, and four star accommodations. Thank you, Santa Laura, for having the intestinal fortitude to call that out. I would be less than forthright if I did not admit to having enjoyed two of these wonderful press junkets myself in 2015 and 2018 respectively. And I would also be less than forthright if I didn't disclose that I have had two trips revoked by brands because I was, apparently,not always as "supportive" as I could (read should) be.

If we who write about watches are being honest about ONLY WATCH writ large? It started as a noble idea. And it is a testimony to Mr. Pettavino's passion, devotion to his late son, and his unwavering persistence that he convinced so many brands to participate and developed it into one of the biggest events on the calendar, all while raising an impressive amount for research. But the cynical side of me feels that what it has devolved into these past three editions is a marketing event for the brands who participate by donating unique pieces for auction. It goes without saying that charity does not exactly start at home for many of the participating brands. In all honesty (and I speak from experience) many would refuse to support a local orphanage, or even cancer research in general. And yet en masse they all, to a brand, offer up one-of-a-kind pieces for auction to benefit research for a disease that touches a fairly small percentage of the population. And by no means does that make it any less worthy, but it underscores the reality that for many of the brands, whether they will allow themselves to admit it or not, ONLY WATCH is in their estimation a marketing vehicle, and it also might help explain why Audemars Piguet was ready, willing, and able to quit the field with no further explanation offered.

So what comes next? This is hard to say. I am hopeful that in the coming 10 months there will be clear and meaningful updates about the fiscal status of ONLY WATCH, that all doubts will be erased and that it will continue on as an important fund raiser for a worthy cause. But in fairness to anyone who may have questions, I would ask that those who occupy the loftier heights of Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates not simply dismiss any attempt at investigative reporting out of hand. It is a disservice to ONLY WATCH, to the brands who participate in the event, to your colleagues, and most importantly? To the readers who come to you for honest, unbiased opinion. 

And I guess that's at least a few more press trips I won't be going on ; )

Enjoy your watches!

The Tiefenmesser Tourbillon

For ONLY WATCH 23 -

Courtesy of Reservoir

This is the ONLY WATCH entry from Reservoir.

Here are the details:

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Ref. RSV03.TF/136.OW - unique piece

CASE
– 43mm bronze case
– White enamel “Grand Feu” dial Blue hand
– Screw-down crown, water resistant to 3 ATM
– 360° open case back, stainless steel
– Non-reflective sapphire crystal

MOVEMENT
– Retrograde minutes and jumping hours, regulator style
– Double barrel mechanical movement, automatic winding, 437 components, 46 jewels
– Grand Tourbillon at 6 o’clock
– Variable-inertia balance wheel with fixed balance-spring stud
– Power reserve: 60 hours
– Frequency: 4Hz (28,800vph)
– Swiss Made

STRAP
– Blue alligator leather strap, width: 22mm
– Stainless steel and bronze butterfly deployment clasp

DISPLAY CASE
– Luxury wooden display case

Bell & Ross for Only Watch

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

One of one, created to support this year's Only Watch charity auction. 

Per Bell & Ross -

THE SAPPHIRE CASE...

Bell & Ross chose sapphire to create this bespoke BR 01 CYBER SKULL SAPPHIRE ONLY WATCH version, a high-quality material made of corundum, an oxide of alumina (Al2O3) that has taken millions of years to occur in nature. Bell & Ross worked on clear luster and elegant transparency to their fullest potential. The precious timepiece is conceived in its entirety with sapphire, for both the case and decoration. The sapphire case is machined from three blocks of sapphire. The SKULL dial from six blocks.

Compounded by the brute force of the material, the aesthetic force of the timepiece merges technologies together. Machined by grinding using diamond powder meant the facets could be resurfaced, in the same way jewelers cut a precious stone.

...SCULPTED LIKE A PRECIOUS GEM

The exclusive BR 01 CYBER SKULL SAPPHIRE ONLY WATCH fits in perfectly with this style. It is characterized by the stylized and angular treatment of the skull on its dial. Each element of the watch, the case, crown, skull, crossbones, is structured within the many faces that sculpt the surfaces, creating volumes and a 3D image.

Emphasized by its sharp edges, its many facets offer a fascinating play on the multiplication of perspectives, between flat and smooth surfaces. Futuristic origami? Memento mori 2.0? New cameo by a cyborg? The BR 01 CYBER SKULL SAPPHIRE ONLY WATCH produces a multifaceted approach.

The geometric shapes of the timepiece create a pixilation effect. This phenomenon appears when the points of an image become clear. The angular representation of the skull and the femur bones on the dial are inspired by this.

For this bespoke version of the CYBER SKULL, Bell & Ross used the orange color to provide its owner with a unique piece for its wrist. Made of transparent sapphire, the Skull dial was metallized on the back that has a smooth side to give this orange effect. Orange is the ultimate color for aeronautical instrumentation due to its high level of legibility and capacity to make essential information stand out from contrast. It is also the emblematic color code of ONLY WATCH, which is used on its logo. The back of the watch also features a special engraving for ONLY WATCH.

HOROLOGY MACHINE

Behind its provocative, symbolic, and artistic face, the BR 01 CYBER SKULL SAPPHIRE ONLY WATCH hides the secrets of an automaton watch belonging to the world of Haute Horlogerie.

To create it, Bell & Ross developed the BR-CAL.206: a caliber entirely designed by the manufacture. While the mobiles were mounting on 21 jewels, the balance benefits from an Inca bloc type shock-absorbing system. The brand also worked on the skeletonization of the main plate and bridges to reveal the essential. The finishes are highly sophisticated: rhodium-plated movement, polished chamfers, velvet sanded hollows, hand- drawn strokes decorations.

Only perfect mastery of the operation of a mechanical movement could, in reality, conceal the BR-CAL 206 hand-wound movement under the faceted decoration. The main plate closely follows the shape of the skull, while extending up to the four corners of the case, underneath the femurs. The whole was fixed on the case. An architecture like this makes the skull appear to float weightlessly inside the case. An impression which is enhanced by the total transparency of the dial, highlighted solely by 12 baton-shaped engraved under the crystal. The complete clarity of the watch reveals the key to the mystery through the Skull.

In addition, there is a surprise that will make you laugh. The automaton movement activates the jaw which opens and appears to snigger when winding-up the spring. Behind the mandible hides the barrel that you will discover when the skull grins back at you! Making up the brain of this skull - which has finally come to life - the anthracite balance wheel reveals its oscillations. The beating of the same, serves as a reminder of the watch’s mechanical heart.

Movement: 

calibre BR-CAL.209. Manufacture hand-wound mechanical. Skeleton main plate and bridges, rhodium plated. 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Incabloc antichoc system. 48 hours power-reserve.

Functions: 

hours and minutes. Moving skull when wound by hand.

Case: 

length 43.30 mm, width 45 mm. Full sapphire. Faceted grade 5 titanium crown. Sapphire case-back.

Dial: 

skeleton. Faceted sapphire skull tinted in orange. Balance wheel at 12 o’clock. Rhodium plated skeleton Super-LumiNova®- filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal: 

engraved anti-reflective sapphire with logo and 12 indices.

Water-resistance: 

30 metres.

Strap: 

translucent rubber.

Buckle: 

pin. Satin-polished steel.

The Perrelet Turbine Hope

For Only Watch -

Courtesy of Perrelet

Per Perrelet -

PERRELET "TURBINE HOPE”, UNIQUE PIECE FOR ONLY WATCH

Perrelet is renowned for its unique representation of the automatic movement thanks to its patented Double Rotor and Turbine technology. The famous 12-blade dial, a distinctive design code of all Perrelet's Turbine models, is protected under a sapphire glass. The original 3D effect created by the blades gives the impression of diving into the heart of the dial. The propeller, picked out in black anodised aluminum with five tungsten counterweights, rotates in time to the motions of the wrist. As the blades spin, a lower sub-dial reveals a medley of positive words: hope, love, support, volunteer, life, social, community. The word "HOPE", highlighted in bright orange, is the dial's protagonist and features an original letter "O" formed by a fluffy white cloud with a rainbow. This design was inspired by paintings made by Italian children at the beginning of the pandemic in Italy and is a powerful symbol of hope that everything will be all right and that thanks to the ongoing progress of medical and scientific research, the virus will be defeated.

Courtesy of Perrelet

The Arabic numerals on the flange and the hours and minutes hands are covered with white Super-LumiNova for optimal legibility in any light conditions. As a final touch of refinement, the words printed on the sub-dial are luminescent with green light emission. The central seconds hand and the indices are picked out in orange to match the word HOPE.

"TURBINE HOPE" is powered by the new generation in-house automatic calibre P-331- MH. Chronometer-certified by COSC and Chronofiable, it beats at 28,800vph and has a 42-hour power reserve. The transparent porthole on the case back offers a view of the refined finishes on the bridges and its elegant open-worked oscillating weight, which is mounted on ball bearings and personalised with the House logo. The crystal caseback displays the transferred logo "Only Watch 2021" and the inscription "Unique Piece".

"TURBINE HOPE" comes with a customised bi-material orange strap made of rubber and water- resistant calf leather with black stitching, fitted with a folding clasp in black PVD stainless steel and embellished with the Perrelet logo. The timepiece is also equipped with an additional and comfortable bi-material orange strap in rubber and fabric for a more casual look.

Courtesy of Perrelet

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS:

Turbine "HOPE" - Edition ONLY WATCH

Movement:

Perrelet in-house calibre P-331-MH, mechanical with automatic winding, COSC and Chronofiable certified

28.800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Number of jewels: 25

Power reserve (fully wound): 42 hours

Open-worked and rhodium-plated oscillating weight with Perrelet logo

Functions:

Hours, minutes and seconds

Case:

Round, case body in polycarbonate and carbon fibre, flat bezel in stainless steel with black PVD coating
Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13. 82 mm

Sapphire crystal glass with double anti-reflective treatment on dial
Fluted case band
Crown with Perrelet logo
Case back in stainless steel with black PVD coating, transparent sapphire glass porthole, with inscription "Only Watch 2021 – Unique Piece"

Waterproof to 5 ATM

Dial:

Black sub-dial with white luminescent printed words, white Super-LumiNova with green glow Turbine technology
12 black anodised aluminium turbine blades with five tungsten counterweights
Central luminescent hour and minute hands

Central seconds hand in orange Luminescent Arabic numerals and indices

Strap

Bi-material strap in rubber and water-resistant orange calf leather with black stitching Additional bi-material strap in rubber and orange fabric
Folding clasp in black PVD stainless steel embellished with the Perrelet logo

The KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH

From CYRUS -

Courtesy of Cyrus

Per Cyrus -

CYRUS Geneva unveils the unique piece KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH

AN UNPRECEDENTED MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH CAPABLE OF MEASURING TWO SHORT INTERVALS INDEPENDENTLY

CYRUS GENEVA, the prestigious Swiss watchmaking house, renowned for its timepieces characterised by an atypical 3D architecture and innovative movements conceived by our master watchmaker Jean- François Mojon, is honoured to sustain the 9th edition of the charity auction ONLY WATCH for the benefit of research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The event, under the patronage of his Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco and its founder and organiser Luc Pettavino, will take place on November 6th 2021 – under the hammer of Christie’s – at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva.

Cyrus is pleased to support this worthy initiative with the unique piece “KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH”, a brand-new model featuring a double independent monopusher chronograph.

The term DICE is the acronym of Double Independent Chronograph Evolution. As its name indicates, it is an evolution of the traditional chronograph.
An innovative technical development, our master watchmaker, Jean-François Mojon, has transformed it into a double chronograph capable of measuring two short intervals of time independently or in synchrony. However, it should not be confused with the rattrapante version, where the two hands track the time of two events that start simultaneously but end at different times or indicate an intermediate elapsed time.

The motivation behind the creation of KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH comes directly from the world of sports.
As Jean-François Mojon explains: "This modern chronograph is the result of a deep reflection on the role of timing in sports competitions. In many sports, it is often important to measure elapsed times with different starting times. This occurs, for example, in races like marathons or biathlons where athletes do not cross the starting line at the same time or in car rallies, where it is common to use two independent chronographs. KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH facilitates this operation thanks to the two monopusher crowns, which are essential to avoid any unwanted manipulation."

Courtesy of Cyrus

The unique piece KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH comes in a 42 mm cushion-shaped case made of polished/satin-brushed grade 5 titanium and is water-resistant to 10 ATM/100 m.
The twin crowns, a peculiar code of CYRUS, are equipped with a pusher that sets the three chronograph functions (start/stop/reset). Both are fully functional, embellished with the brand's helix logo, and distinguished by either an orange or yellow anodised aluminium ring to select which chronograph is going to be activated.

Yellow and orange are the colors that become the protagonists of the aesthetics of the KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH, designed as a tribute to the logo that distinguishes this respected event.

Courtesy of CYRUS

The open-worked architecture allows the view of the prestigious mechanics that powers KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH and highlights the two column wheels on the dial. Picked out in orange and yellow lacquer, they are placed at 12 and 6 o'clock, respectively. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph mechanism on the dial side reveals the motion of the finely decorated wheels, levers and gears mounted on a double mainplate with a black microbeaded PVD treatment.

A host of sapphire crystal elements on the dial offer an unhindered view of this extraordinary calibre. The large sapphire crystal ring with bevelled and polished profile corresponding to the time is anti-reflective and features Arabic numerals in relief with white Super-LumiNova that emits a blue glow.

The dimensions of the small seconds at 9 o'clock and the 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock are generous to enhance legibility and surmounted by two orange lacquered bridges. Both counters are crafted in smoked sapphire crystal, framed in orange as well as the indices, and fixed to a bridge carved in the shape of Cyrus's logo. The rhodium-plated microbeaded helix is decorated with circular satin finish and doubles up as an original seconds hand with a luminescent tip.

The 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o'clock – the star function of KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH – is equipped with two vertically aligned hands in orange and yellow. Thanks to the bright colours, reading the two elapsed times is instantaneous. The independent hands track a graduated scale with markers at 15 and 30 minutes in alternating orange and yellow. The same orange and yellow colour scheme is used for the two central seconds hands, each measuring a different length. The reason that the hands differ in length is because they track the seconds on a slightly conic flange printed with two parallel scales graduated every 5 seconds and picked out in orange and yellow. Mirroring the position of the hands on the 30-minute counter, the longer orange central seconds hand measures time on the outermost scale and returns to zero at 12 o'clock; the shorter yellow hand tracks the innermost yellow scale and returns to zero at 6 o'clock.

KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH is powered by the new 443-component CYR718 self- winding manufacture calibre featuring two independent chronograph movements and two display axes: one corresponds to the chronograph seconds and the second to the 30-minute counter of the double chronograph. The chronographs are activated by two column wheels, which in turn activate the different levers and couplings that move the seconds and 30-minute chronograph display.

The activation of chronograph levers generates considerable shocks and dispersion of energy, especially during the return-to-zero phase when the hammer on the heart cam is activated. Thanks to a special system of insulation, which ensures precision measurements for the duration of the event, these shocks have no repercussions on the display of the functions. In short, the two chronographs function independently without exerting any influence on one another.

The motion work mechanism that allows the display of hours and minutes also required special attention. Conventionally, this mechanism is composed of several gears placed on different rotational axes. However, to free up as much space as possible for the dual chronograph complication, Mojon came up with a concentric mechanism for the motion work. Not only is the mechanism more compact, but it is coaxial to the axes of the hands.

Two mainplates were required for this innovative mechanism. Treated with black microbeaded PVD, the 218 components of the additional module corresponding to the two independent chronographs are mounted on the two mainplates.

It is worth noting that since the chronograph mechanism is visible on the dial side, the movement has been reversed. Its symmetrical design offers a fascinating view of the two column wheels that are the "heart" of this complication.

Automatic manufacture calibre CYR718 beats at 28,800 vibrations/hour and is equipped with a single barrel offering 60 hours of autonomy at full charge. Furthermore, the balance wheel is protected by an Incabloc shock protection system.

Thanks to a sapphire glass case back, the decorative flourishes on the NAC- treated bridges of the calibre can be admired. Decorated with a slightly embossed sunray pattern, the bridges display satin-brushed and polished surfaces. The design of the open-worked monobloc rotor is new and features a galvanic grey NAC coating and a sunray finish. The rotor

is engraved with the motto "The Conquest of Innovation" and adorned with an 18k 4N gold helix.
The ring surrounding the sapphire crystal, sealed with customised screws with the Maison's three-armed helix logo, is engraved with the inscription ONLY WATCH.

KLEPCYS DICE ONLY WATCH is presented with an orange Cordura fabric strap with a titanium folding clasp and is delivered with an additional black rubber strap.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Ref. 539.508.OW.A (polished titanium)

Movement:

• Manufacture self-winding movement, calibre CYR718
• Dimensions: 36.00 mm Ø x 11.65 mm thickness
• Components: 443 total - 218 correspond to the chronograph module
• Number of Jewels: 51 total - 17 correspond to the chronograph module
• Annular balance wheel
• Frequency : 4 Hz
• Vibrations per hour: 28,800
• Swiss lever escapement
• Rhodium-plated barrel with snailed ratchet wheel, Cyrus logo and inscription filled with black lacquer
• Power reserve: 60 hours
• Bridges: grey anthracite NAC galvanic treatment, decorated with slightly embossed sunray pattern with satin and microbeaded finishing
• New open-worked monobloc rotor with a sunray pattern, engraved with "The Conquest of Innovation", open-worked central medallion with Cyrus helix logo in 18K 4N gold

Functions

• Central hours and minutes
• Small seconds at 9 o'clock
• 30-minute counter of the double independent chronograph at 3 o'clock, double hands in orange and yellow
• Two central chronograph hands; orange hand resets-to-zero at 12 o'clock, yellow hand resets at 6 o'clock

Case

• Cushion-shaped case made of 26 parts in polished/satin-brushed grade 5 titanium
• Diameter: 42 mm excluding the crowns
• Thickness: 16.5 mm
• Crown at 3 o'clock: position 1 to wind the movement; position 2 to adjust time + pusher for activation of chronograph No. 1 (start-stop-reset)
• Crown at 9 o'clock: pusher to activate chronograph No. 2 (start-stop-reset)
• Decoration of crowns: engraved Cyrus logo, black rubber ring embossed with grooves and orange anodised aluminium ring on crown at 3 o'clock corresponding to chronograph No. 1; yellow anodised aluminium ring at 9 o'clock corresponding to chronograph No. 2
• Sapphire crystal on dial side: anti-reflective treatment on both sides
• Case back: sapphire crystal, sealed with customised screws with Cyrus, engraved with the logo ONLY WATCH
• Water-resistance: 10 ATM (100 m – 330 ft)

Dial

• 3D open-worked dial
• Microbeaded black PVD mainplate
• Sapphire crystal hour ring with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, bevelled and polished edges, Arabic numerals with white Super-LumiNova with blue light emissions
• Minute markers on black PVD flange placed at 5-minute intervals, treated with white Super-LumiNova with blue glow
• Flange with double scale corresponding to chronograph with 5-minute intervals in orange and yellow
• Small seconds counter at 9 o'clock: smoked anti-reflective sapphire crystal, orange lacquered Arabic numerals at 15-second intervals surmounted by a microblasted rhodium-plated ring, helix small seconds hand with luminescent tip (white Super-LumiNova with blue glow)
• 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock: smoked anti-reflective sapphire crystal, luminescent markers at 5-minute intervals, two hands in orange and yellow with double indications at 15/30 minutes in same colour corresponding to the two independent chronographs
• Lacquered column wheels: orange at 12 o'clock and yellow at 6 o'clock
• Open-worked hour and minute hands, rhodium-plated with polished edges, treated with white Super-LumiNova with blue glow
• Central chronograph seconds hands: orange hand with reset at 12 o'clock, yellow with reset at 6 o'clock

Strap

• Orange Cordura fabric strap with folding clasp in titanium, customised with Cyrus logo
• Additional black rubber strap

The UR-102 “Gaïa”

From Urwerk for Only Watch -

Courtesy of Urwerk 

Per Urwerk -

URWERK reaches for the stars with the UR-102 “Gaïa”

Geneva, May 30th 2021

It is an iconic model, jealously safeguarded until now at the heart of the watch Maison, since it marks the beginning of the URWERK adventure in the 1990s. The foundation stone. A watch of almost disconcerting simplicity, with a wandering hour as its only marker of time. The UR-102. This one-of-a-kind model in asphalt-coloured anodised aluminium with a platinum caseback has been newly enhanced with a midnight blue lacquer. It will be auctioned on 6 November 2021 on behalf of the "Only Watch" charity to fund research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Courtesy of Urwerk

This unique piece embodies the wild aspirations of a team composed young dreamers who had only just graduated – from the School of Arts for Martin Frei and from the Solothurn Watchmaking School for Felix Baumgartner and his brother. In 1997, they set out to conquer the world, armed with a brilliant idea and modest capital. Their first watch, the UR-102, was presented at the Baselworld watch fair on the booth of the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants). This model ran resolutely counter to existing and generated a certain amount of controversy at the time its launch. It is now the symbol of victorious pugnacity, of salutary stubbornness. What a destiny!

"We have chosen to name this model ‘Gaïa’. We recently had the immense honour of receiving the Gaïa Prize* for Entrepreneurship from our peers. This award recognises a journey from oblivion to the limelight, along with tenacity, conviction and pugnacity that have repeatedly been put to the test. This model reflects this fierce determination that blazes new trails. We dedicate this symbol of hope to all those who struggle to make things happen”, said URWEK co-founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei.

This UR-102 is unique in many ways. It is undoubtedly one of the first watch creations to honour a mixed-genre approach merging the common metal aluminium with the nobility of platinum.

Its full, round shape is seamlessly smooth. Framed by precious platinum, the caseback features an interpretation of the Gaïa prize, a dazzling flight of fancy symbolising URWERK’s unswerving resolve to reach for the stars.

Technical specifications: UR-102 “Gaïa “

Based on the historical UR-102 

Original design by Martin Frei

Mechanism development and assembly by Felix Baumgartner

Case design and hand machining by Thomas Baumgartner

 

Movement                      Self-winding

Finishing                         Satin-brushed and rhodium-plated

Frequency                      28,800 vph

Jewels                            21

Power reserve                42 hours

Indications                      Hours indication by satin-brushed, rhodium-plated and engraved disks.   

                                       Hour-marker engravings filled with matt black lacquer

 

Case                               Case middle and lugs in anodised aluminium; 

                                       Screw-down caseback in circular satin-brushed platinum, Gaïa logo filled     

                                       with glittering hand-applied blue lacquer

Dimensions                    Diameter: 38mm; thickness 12mm; lugs 16mm

Glass                              Special-shaped sapphire crystal

 

Strap                              Sandblasted, polished and satin-brushed pin buckle

                                       Strap hand-sewn in Geneva (1 x black Baltimora and 1x black Alligator)

                                      

The Big Bang Tourbillon Only Watch

From Hublot -

Courtesy of Hublot

Per Hublot -

Since 2005, Hublot has been committed alongside ONLY WATCH to help research to overcome Duchenne muscular dystrophy one day and protect future generations. How? By creating a unique piece every two years—that is sold at auction with all profits going to the association—for which the singular alchemy generally sends the bids off the scale. Beyond the technical prowess of the piece and its innovation, it is the reason behind the fund raising that has been motivating the watchmakers for so many years to surpass themselves so that the exceptional can bring an end to the unacceptable: the illness.

Courtesy of Hublot

This year, the unique piece is called Big Bang Tourbillon Only Watch. Its translucent case cut from sapphire and its orange bezel display the expertise of Hublot and the colour code for ONLY WATCH 2021. The dial, which is also made from sapphire reveals the mechanics of the new self-winding manufacture tourbillon movement—MHUB6035— launched in January. Still in the same tones: A raised section, Superluminova on the hour and minute hands, and the numerals are also orange coloured. The watch is engraved with “Pièce Unique” and the Only Watch logo on the sapphire back cover and comes with two interchangeable One Click structured lined rubber straps, one of which is transparent and the other is orange.

The Big Bang Tourbillon Only Watch

A unique piece cut in sapphire—translucent and orange—with the iconic design of the Big Bang and revealing the mechanics of the self-winding tourbillon manufacture movement with sapphire bridges.

Sapphire, a material that no longer holds any secrets for Hublot

Its transparency hides nothing, everything is laid bare and the watchmaker knows how to produce this ultra-resistant and tough material in almost every colour without losing its clarity and its purity. To create its bezel in orange sapphire, Hublot once again added a world first to its list of records. Solution-dyed sapphire, in a powerful orange, which is vibrant and positive, resulting from the fusion of titanium and chrome, and that follows the Only Watch codes. To make the most of this unique piece with its total transparency, Hublot has decided to reveal everything and hide nothing, right down to the chassis itself, which is entirely cut in sapphire. This means that the Big Bang Tourbillon Only Watch can be admired like a work of art, from any angle, from your wrist to its frame.

The MHUB6035, a self-winding manufacture movement

Whereas standard tourbillon movements are manual winding, the MHUB6035 calibre, which was entirely developed and designed by the Hublot Manufacture, is self-winding. Its sunray-brushed and sandblasted angled micro-rotor in 22-ct white gold is visible on the dial side, creating a spectacular and sophisticated impression. Playing with the ultimate transparency of the case and the strap, right down to the movement, Hublot has also included sapphire in the calibre itself by equipping it for the first time with three sapphire bridges—the barrel bridge, automatic watch bridge and tourbillon bar.

REFERENCE

ORANGE SAPPHIRE 419.JX.0120.RT.OWM21 Unique Piece

DIAL

Polished sapphire Skeleton dial with orange decals Satin-Finished rhodium plated appliques with orange luminescent

CASE

Polished Sapphire

Diameter 45 MM
Thickness 15.30 mm
Water Resistant: 3 ATM (30m)

MOVEMENT

Caliber MHUB6035
Manufacture self winding micro-rotor, skeleton Tourbillon Movement

No. of Components: 282 Jewels: 26
Frequency: 3 Hz (21’600 A/h) Power Reserve: 72 Hours

CASE-BACK & BEZEL

Case Back : Polished Sapphire engraved “UNIQUE PIECE” Case Back glass: Sapphire with interior anti-reflective treatment + “OWM21” Logo

Bezel: Polished Orange Sapphire Crystal

STRAPS & BUCKLE

Strap 1: Orange Transparent structured lined rubber
Strap 2: Transparent structured lined rubber

Titanium deployant buckle clasp

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date Only Watch 2021

Per Maurice Lacroix - 

Only Watch, the biennial charity auction of one-off luxury watches, has become a popular platform for those participating brands wishing to give something back to society. Since 2005, this altruistic face of commerce has seen the watch firms collectively raise funds for research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Maurice Lacroix, the urban brand from the Swiss Jura, has been a longstanding supporter of Only Watch, donating unique pieces for over a decade.

Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix

This is the first time Maurice Lacroix has presented an example of its highly successful AIKON collection in carbon fibre. The resultant watch is lightweight and looks contemporary.

The embossed off-centre hour and minutes display is presented in sun-brushed orange, framed with a yellow circlet. Maurice Lacroix has chosen these tones to match the Pantone shades inspired by the Only Watch 2021 theme. The hands and indexes are executed in black and lined with yellow Super-LumiNova, while an openworked small seconds is positioned below. The main area of the dial is the reverse of the mainplate, vertically brushed and suffused with orange PVD.

Part of this model’s charm relates to the openworked area of the dial, revealing the screwed balance, hairspring, pallet lever and escape wheel all in motion. This dynamic characteristic is consistent with the world of motorsport, where each component must collaborate successfully to deliver the desired performance. The curved balance bridge is presented in black DLC and features an open-worked, twin-beam design, affording views of the components below.

A large date display is positioned in the north-westerly region of the dial. Unlike a conventional date display, the ‘Grand Date’ features two discs, one for tens and the other for units. The date values are presented in yellow atop black discs and along with the large format display, confer a highly legible indication.

At the heart of the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Master Grand Date Only Watch 2021 is the automatic ML331 calibre, a Manufacture movement endowed with refined finishing. The movement features 43 jewels and the watch has a power-reserve of 50 hours.

F.P. Journe for Only Watch

Courtesy of F.P. Journe

2021 celebrates the 20 years of the automatic Octa Calibre 1300 in all its forms. This latest opus is the ultimate expression. An automaton, working solely off the Octa movement’s mainspring, was no easy task. The minutes are read by rotating disk at the 12 o’clock position, while the mobile fingers appear or disappear instantaneously to display the hour according to their positions. The fingers are inspired from a mechanical hand created by Ambroise Paré (1509-1590),  the father of modern surgery. “This watch was born in 2012 while having dinner at Francis Ford Coppola’s house in the Napa Valley. He asked me if it could be possible to tell time with a hand in a watch. I replied that the idea was interesting and required thinking about it. But how to display 12 hours with 5 fingers? It was not an easy matter and this complex challenge inspired and motivated me. Once I figured it out, Francis immediately sent the sketches for the fingers positions. After more than 2 years, I could finally focus on “Fecit”. After 7 years of development, I am proud to present the FFC prototype.”  Model: FFC Blue Reference: FFC Case: Tantalum, unique case exclusively developed for Only Watch. Dial: Instantaneous digital hours indicated by an automaton blue hand, unique piece exclusively developed for Only Watch. Rotating minutes. Calibre: Automatic FFC 1300.3 in 18K rose Gold. Unidirectional oscillating weight in 22K 5N Gold, engraved Ambroise Paré (1509-1590) & F.F.Coppola. Bracelet: Orange alligator strap. Dimensions: Diameter: 42 mm / Thickness: 10.70 mm. Number of components: Movement: 396 Functions & Complications: 2 Estimate:CHF 300,000 - 400,000

Bell & Ross // ONLY WATCH 2019

This is the ONLY WATCH entry from 
Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The BR05 SKELETON GOLD BLUE will fly the flag for Bell & Ross this year in Monaco.

Here are the pertinents -

REF. BR05A-OW-PG-SK/SRB

                     
Movement: 

Calibre BR-CAL.322. 

Automatic mechanical

Functions: 
Hours, minutes and seconds

Case:
40 mm diameter
Satin-polished 18K rose gold
Sapphire caseback

Dial:
Blue skeleton
Rose gold applique indices coated in 
Super- LumiNova®

Crystal:
Sapphire with anti-reflective coating

Water-resistance:
100 meters

Strap:
Blue Rubber

Doing Good - MB&F and Only Watch

Courtesy of MB&F

This year's Only Watch auction promises to be something special.  And although I am not in their demographic in terms of disposable income (educators are in it for the love, not the money), I am a fan for sur!

But beyond technical prowess, this year's effort solidified my belief in the power of fun!

Courtesy of MB&F

Now usually, when the designer gets revealed, it is a crusty old guy (not unlike this writer) in a heroic pose in front of impossibly complicated devices and machinery.  Allow me to introduce you to the artist behind this collaborative piece -

Courtesy of MB&F

ABOUT THE ARTIST

Cassandra Legendre is a 15-year-old student in Madrid, Spain with mixed French and Swiss parentage. Since the age of five, she has been trained in classical ballet and is currently enrolled in Victor Ullate Escuela, founded by the dancer that Maurice Béjart called one of the most complete ballet dancers of the 20^th century.

Although Legendre’s ultimate aim is to become a professional ballet dancer, her art is also a strong part of her life. Her drawings form the main part of her work, and are done completely freehand in black felt pen.

Apart from drawing and ballet, Legendre is also passionate about a wide range of film genres and is particularly interested in the dialogue aspects of screenwriting.

And because I think that MB&F went way above and beyond with this effort, here is the rest of the release in their own words -

HOROLOGICAL MACHINE N°8 “ONLY WATCH”

DRIVING SUPPORT FOR CHILDREN LIVING WITH DUCHENNE MUSCULAR DYSTROPHY

The biennial Only Watch auction, widely recognised as the world’s most high-profile charity watch event, returns in 2017. For the fourth time, MB&F is contributing a unique edition of one of their Machines to Only Watch, to be sold in aid of Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a genetic disorder characterised by progressive muscle degeneration primarily affecting young boys.

The base of this pièce unique is Horological Machine N°8, an automotive-inspired creation that takes design cues from the legendary high-octane Can-Am race. Engraved and metallised on the sapphire crystal pane that surmounts the HM8 engine is a whimsical drawing created by 15-year-old Cassandra Legendre. A student currently living in Madrid, Legendre’s primary method of artistic expression is ballet, but she also produces remarkable drawings in her spare time. As an exception for MB&F’s contribution to Only Watch, Legendre and her family agreed to this one-off participation to strengthen the message of HM8 Only Watch — a child creating something to help children who have been denied many of the dreams and opportunities of childhood.

Both intricate and simple, an approach that perfectly matches MB&F’s sophisticated yet direct approach to watchmaking, the illustration captures childhood objects of joy in a continuously drawn frame. Despite being in her mid-teens, Legendre possesses the rare touch of communicating the perspectives of someone much younger, perspectives that still retain much of the innocence and whimsy that we lose as we grow up. Look closely at the drawing and you can spot a robot, a jet plane, a toy car and a jellyfish, visual touchstones that originate in the life and creations of MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser, and resonate with children everywhere. There are also elements of pure childlike delight, such as the ice-cream cone, football, sunglasses and video game controller.

These are items that evoke histories both personal and universal, which every MB&F creation taps into with its design and message. The motif of unity and connectedness is further brought out in the journey of Cassandra Legendre’s art from initial sketch to its final form on HM8 Only Watch. According to Legendre, the drawing started out as something to keep her occupied during a dull mathematics lesson — a familiar youthful experience for many of us! — and was later discovered through social media by Maximilian Büsser after her parents encouraged her to upload her art to Facebook.

One of the elements in Legendre’s drawing is given particular prominence in the HM8 Only Watch. The elephant, situated under the racing-inspired roll bar closest to the minutes disc, is reproduced in three dimensions between the optical prisms. Positioned on a tiny white-gold plinth, the micro-sculpture hand-crafted by Oliver Kuhn is a striking allusion to the majestic beast that occupies large swathes of children’s literature from Kipling to Disney. For those suffering from Duchenne muscular dystrophy, or indeed any serious health condition, the elephant’s status as an endangered animal under siege and facing an uncertain future holds particular significance and relevance. The elephant is made of white gold and took 120 hours to complete, with its trunk tucked in and ears pulled back in a peaceful pose. Particular care and attention was paid to details such as the tusks, which measure 0.2mm in diameter at their finest point, and the eyes, measuring 0.18mm in diameter.

Where previously there was a double-screwed plate engraved with the MB&F logo, the HM8 Only Watch has a white-gold disc depicting a happy face, or smiley, with the two screws now forming its eyes. It is the ultimate symbol of the childlike perspective that Legendre brings to Horological Machine N°8 Only Watch, which is also found in all those who feel aligned with the creative drive of MB&F.

HM8 ONLY WATCH : TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Distinctive feature:

This pièce unique HM8 in white gold and titanium features a sapphire crystal engraved with a drawing created by 15-year old Cassandra Legendre, along with a miniature white gold elephant sculpture standing between the hours and minutes.

Engine

Three-dimensional engine conceived and developed by MB&F from a Girard-Perregaux base calibre

Automatic battle-axe winding rotor in 22k gold with purple PVD

Power reserve: 42 hours

Balance frequency: 28,800bph / 4Hz

Number of components: 251

Number of jewels: 30

Functions/indications

Bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes displayed by two optical prisms that both reflect and magnify

Case

Material: 18K white gold and grade 5 titanium

Dimensions: 49 mm x 51.5 mm x 19 mm

Number of components: 60 components

Water resistance: 30 m / 90' / 3 atm

Sapphire crystals

All sapphire crystals – front, back, top, bottom – treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces. Top plate metallised and laser engraved with a drawing.

Strap & buckle

Black hand-stitched alligator strap with white gold folding buckle.