Showing posts with label Skull. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Skull. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 6, 2021

Bell & Ross for Only Watch


Courtesy of Bell & Ross
One of one, created to support this year's Only Watch charity auction. 

Per Bell & Ross -

THE SAPPHIRE CASE...

Bell & Ross chose sapphire to create this bespoke BR 01 CYBER SKULL SAPPHIRE ONLY WATCH version, a high-quality material made of corundum, an oxide of alumina (Al2O3) that has taken millions of years to occur in nature. Bell & Ross worked on clear luster and elegant transparency to their fullest potential. The precious timepiece is conceived in its entirety with sapphire, for both the case and decoration. The sapphire case is machined from three blocks of sapphire. The SKULL dial from six blocks.

Compounded by the brute force of the material, the aesthetic force of the timepiece merges technologies together. Machined by grinding using diamond powder meant the facets could be resurfaced, in the same way jewelers cut a precious stone.


...SCULPTED LIKE A PRECIOUS GEM

The exclusive BR 01 CYBER SKULL SAPPHIRE ONLY WATCH fits in perfectly with this style. It is characterized by the stylized and angular treatment of the skull on its dial. Each element of the watch, the case, crown, skull, crossbones, is structured within the many faces that sculpt the surfaces, creating volumes and a 3D image.

Emphasized by its sharp edges, its many facets offer a fascinating play on the multiplication of perspectives, between flat and smooth surfaces. Futuristic origami? Memento mori 2.0? New cameo by a cyborg? The BR 01 CYBER SKULL SAPPHIRE ONLY WATCH produces a multifaceted approach.

The geometric shapes of the timepiece create a pixilation effect. This phenomenon appears when the points of an image become clear. The angular representation of the skull and the femur bones on the dial are inspired by this.

For this bespoke version of the CYBER SKULL, Bell & Ross used the orange color to provide its owner with a unique piece for its wrist. Made of transparent sapphire, the Skull dial was metallized on the back that has a smooth side to give this orange effect. Orange is the ultimate color for aeronautical instrumentation due to its high level of legibility and capacity to make essential information stand out from contrast. It is also the emblematic color code of ONLY WATCH, which is used on its logo. The back of the watch also features a special engraving for ONLY WATCH.

HOROLOGY MACHINE

Behind its provocative, symbolic, and artistic face, the BR 01 CYBER SKULL SAPPHIRE ONLY WATCH hides the secrets of an automaton watch belonging to the world of Haute Horlogerie.

To create it, Bell & Ross developed the BR-CAL.206: a caliber entirely designed by the manufacture. While the mobiles were mounting on 21 jewels, the balance benefits from an Inca bloc type shock-absorbing system. The brand also worked on the skeletonization of the main plate and bridges to reveal the essential. The finishes are highly sophisticated: rhodium-plated movement, polished chamfers, velvet sanded hollows, hand- drawn strokes decorations.

Only perfect mastery of the operation of a mechanical movement could, in reality, conceal the BR-CAL 206 hand-wound movement under the faceted decoration. The main plate closely follows the shape of the skull, while extending up to the four corners of the case, underneath the femurs. The whole was fixed on the case. An architecture like this makes the skull appear to float weightlessly inside the case. An impression which is enhanced by the total transparency of the dial, highlighted solely by 12 baton-shaped engraved under the crystal. The complete clarity of the watch reveals the key to the mystery through the Skull.

In addition, there is a surprise that will make you laugh. The automaton movement activates the jaw which opens and appears to snigger when winding-up the spring. Behind the mandible hides the barrel that you will discover when the skull grins back at you! Making up the brain of this skull - which has finally come to life - the anthracite balance wheel reveals its oscillations. The beating of the same, serves as a reminder of the watch’s mechanical heart.


Movement: 
calibre BR-CAL.209. Manufacture hand-wound mechanical. Skeleton main plate and bridges, rhodium plated. 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Incabloc antichoc system. 48 hours power-reserve.

Functions: 
hours and minutes. Moving skull when wound by hand.

Case: 
length 43.30 mm, width 45 mm. Full sapphire. Faceted grade 5 titanium crown. Sapphire case-back.

Dial: 
skeleton. Faceted sapphire skull tinted in orange. Balance wheel at 12 o’clock. Rhodium plated skeleton Super-LumiNova®- filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal: 
engraved anti-reflective sapphire with logo and 12 indices.

Water-resistance: 
30 metres.

Strap: 
translucent rubber.

Buckle: 
pin. Satin-polished steel.

Saturday, December 31, 2016

The Shit That Killed Elvis 9 / 12

Courtesy of Fiona Kruger Timepieces
Every now and then you will encounter something that knocks you on your ass... in a good way!  And for me that was my experience when I encountered the watches designed by Fiona Kruger, and sold by her brand Fiona Kruger Timepieces.

Now I don't know that I could necessarily carry this one off myself, but it is pretty fab.  Everyone and their dog is making a watch with a skull or skeleton on the dial, but not everyone is making a watch whose case is designed around the shape of a skull.  That, as they say, is quite the other thing.

This one is the Celebration Skull.  A wonderful combination of just about every colorful aspect you could imagine.  It is not for everyone, and that's okay.  Some things should be unique, should be special, should not be on every wrist.

Here are the pertinents -

Case material & colour
Stainless Steel 316N with specifically designed back opening

Case size
57.4 x 41.3 mm (length x width), 10.9mm thick

Glass
Sapphire (front and back)

Colour of dial & style
3 layered dial in stainless steel 316N with hand-painted décor in in 7 specially
selected coloured lacquers and superluminova + new date feature
Layer 1: Hand-polished stainless steel with black PVD coating, hand painted lacquer and superluminova décor
Layer 2: Shotblasted stainless steel with Rhodium treatment, hand-painted lacquer and superluminova décor
Layer 3: Hand-finished with Circular graining (perlage) with Rhodium treatment, hand-painted lacquer and superluminova décor

Hands
Blued Steel

Movement
Mechanical Automatic movement, TT738 with skeletonised and custom- black PVD coated bridges, customised oscillating mass with skeletonisation, engraving and hand-painting, and custom-made date wheel

Buckle
Steel pin buckle

Bracelets
Hand-stitched calf leather

Monday, October 31, 2016

October 31

Courtesy of Corum
This is the third new version of the Bubble released by Corum this past week.  Skulls seem to be the thing for just about everyone, and this one will certainly have some appeal.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement

CO 082 - 
Automatic
Functions:  Hour, minute, second
Power reserve:  42 h
Frequency:  4 Hz, 28’800 vph
Jewels:  21
Dimension:  11 ½’’’
 

Case

Thickness:  18.50 mm
Water resistant:  100 meters / 10 ATM
 

Dial

Material:  Brass
Finish:  Black, Leaf-type, openworked, black varnish
 

Bracelet

Color:  Black
Material:  Rubber
Interhorn:  24/20 mm
 
 
 

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

The Sequential One S110 Skull

From MCT -

Courtesy of MCT
Let's start with the "lume" shot.  As you can see, quite striking.  And just so you have an idea of what to expect in the daylight -
Courtesy of MCT

Here are the pertinents -

SEQUENTIAL ONE – S110 SKULL
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REFERENCE
SQ 45 S110 AB SKULL 

FUNCTION 

Sequential indication of the hour on prisms Minutes’ indication on 270° sector


MOVEMENT

MCT-S1.0 hand-winding movement, developed and assembled
by MCT Composed of 471 pieces
Bridges hand-chamfered and adorned with “Côtes de Genève” 
Patented system for accumulation of energy
Frequency 18,000 A/h (2.5Hz)
Traditional Breguet terminal curve

Power reserve of 50 hours 81 Rubies 


CASE 

45.00mm, x 45.00mm, H 15.50mm in centre and 6 mm on the edges
Crafted from Titanium Grade 5, DLC coated composed of 50 components 

Front cambered crystal made of sapphire with double anti-reflective coating 
Rear crystal made of sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the inside side 
Middle crystal made of sapphire

DIAL
Minutes: indication of a rotated dial in aluminum, covered with Super-LumiNova 
Hours: made of 4 modules composed of 5 triangular prisms each
Skull: covered with Super-LumiNova

STRAP
Alligator inner leather, handed stitched, triple deployment clasp, in steel

WATER RESISTANCE
30 metres/ 3 ATM

GENERAL WARRANTY
3 years

LIMITED EDITION
available in various colors 


Saturday, September 3, 2016

The BR01-92 Burning Skull

From Bell & Ross -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest iteration of Bell & Ross's Skull theme.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Here are the pertinents -

Technical specifications 


Movement:
calibre BR-CAL.302. Mechanical automatic.


Functions:

hours and minutes.


Case:
46 mm diameter. Engraved, microblasted steel.
Hand-filled with black lacquer.
Screw-down crown.

Dial:
Black Superluminova-coated. Stamped metal skull.


Crystal:
anti-reflective sapphire.


Water-resistance:
100 metres.


Straps:
brown alligator and ultra-resistant black synthetic fabric.


Buckle:
pin. Steel.




















Sunday, March 27, 2016

Making Skulls a Little Less Scary - Fiona Kruger

Now those who know me would attest that when you think of Henki, your first thoughts don't turn to skeletons or skulls.  But there are skulls, and then there are skulls!  The work of Fiona Kruger belongs to the latter.
Courtesy of Fiona Kruger
This is the Celebration Skull from Fiona Kruger.  Limited to 24 pieces and assembled by hand in Switzerland.

The watches are very intriguing and the attention to detail is what you would expect from an artist of Fiona Kruger's stature.


At a fair where it seems that all you hear is:  "championing the timeless values of horology..."
or:  "our latest celebrity ambassador is..."  As a good friend of mine from Bienne puts it:  "a lot of hot air produced in the gas factory".  So it was downright refreshing to see someone really applying art and craft to what can sometimes be a fairly pedestrian endeavor - watch making.  Because if I am honest, the watches are beautiful and certainly something that I would wear (despite my admitted anxiety about the undead).  But more than just the watches themselves is the story behind them.  A young artist travels to Switzerland from Scotland to study, discovers watches, and creativity took over.


You will notice the book that Fiona Kruger is leafing through?  It is what you might call the "creation story" of her watches.  All of the sketches, the inspirations, the musings.  This "sketch book" is almost as interesting as the watches themselves.  All too often we get the glib press release, reflecting on the true spirit of Swiss watch making with time honored traditions, hairsprings crafted in secret caves, dials lacquered with the tears of Arcadian nymphs...

Courtesy of Fiona Kruger
This is something different again.  And as someone who occasionally writes about these things, these watches were a very welcome addition to BaselWorld this year.

Ms. Kruger was kind enough to indicate that she might be willing to participate in an interview and give some more background, so stay tuned!

For now, here are the pertinents for the Celebration Skull, courtesy of Fiona Kruger -

Courtesy of Fiona Kruger

Celebration Skull



Case material & colour
Stainless Steel 316N with specifically designed back opening 

Case size 
57.4 x 41.3 mm (length x width), 10.9mm thick

Glass 
Sapphire (front and back) 


Colour of dial & style 

3 layered dial in stainless steel 316N with hand-painted décor in in 7 specially selected coloured lacquers and superluminova + new date feature
Layer 1: Hand-polished stainless steel with black PVD coating, hand painted lacquer and superluminova décor
Layer 2: Shotblasted stainless steel with Rhodium treatment, hand-painted lacquer and superluminova décor
Layer 3: Hand-finished with Circular graining (perlage) with Rhodium treatment, hand- painted lacquer and superluminova décor


Hands 

Blued Steel 


Movement 

Mechanical Automatic movement, TT738 with skeletonised and custom- black PVD coated bridges, customised oscillating mass with skeletonisation, engraving and hand-painting, and custom-made date wheel 


Buckle 

Steel pin buckle 


Bracelets 

Hand-stitched calf leather