Who's Next?

Speaking with a brand owner the other day and the question he kept asking - who is next?

What did he mean by that? Well, up until the (if we're honest) late 90s / early oughts nobody really gave two tosses about who ran what watch brand. And designers were, by and large, only really recognized by a handful of people.

Now the funny part of all of this is that no single thing so dramatic happened to change the landscape inside of the industry. It was a lot of little things that all took place around the same time, and created a snow ball effect. More on this for a different post, but it's important to bear in mind that there was a time not so very long ago where we neither knew or cared about who designed our favorite watch, or who ran the brand.

Now back to the opening salvo - Who's next?

The watch industry is just that, an industry. But within every industry there are always glimmers of excitement, mavericks, people who chart their own course and in doing so offer something truly remarkable, that stands the test of time.

Names that were mentioned during this conversation included the obvious - Biver, Hayek and Schnyder. But some others came through - Silberstein, Genta and Richard Mille. And the question again was - "Who is next?" and the honest answer that I gave was pretty blunt - nobody.

Now before you beetle over to the comment button to leave your bon mots, allow me to elaborate. There are plenty of creative, talented people out there making some wonderful things -

Sarpaneva -

Shamelessly borrowed from the Sarpaneva Facebook page

Fiona Krüger -

Courtesy of Fiona Krüger

Patrik Sjögren -

Courtesy of GoS

But these folks have been at it for awhile, and in fairness, they are taking different approaches from the luminaries that preceded them. Because back in the day, you had to have a benefactor. The Royal Oak is a great watch, but (and I say this with all due respect), it would not have been anything more than an interesting idea without the weight of Audemars Piguet behind it. And even that, on it's own, was not enough, a certain amount of luck was involved and it is safe to say that it was lightning in a bottle. Think I'm full of it? Well let's see... there is the Nautilus. It was backed by a tiny, insignificant little Swiss firm... Patek Philippe.

And yet there were other really dope designs such as the Overseas and the Laureato. But neither one has really enjoyed the same level of "thingness" that the Royal Oak or the Nautilus have.

So who or what is next remains really hard to know, and here's
why - fear. I am a risk averse fellow myself, but fear is what drives the majority of decisions made in the larger brands. Fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, fear of looking bad. And now that Vacheron, GP, Blancpain and others are part of larger groups that are answerable to investors, etc.? That fear is on steroids.

What many of us are waiting for is to see brands develop and grow talent IN HOUSE. Talent that will be encouraged to take some risks, and make watches that are out of the norm and challenge the status quo. Now it would be easy to say that there is nothing new in watches. Well, I wouldn't necessarily buy that, but I would say that at the rate we are going we will never know if the big brands don't start letting the next generation take their turn at the wheel.

In this day and age, you don't necessarily need a benefactor, but more and more it becomes impossible for the independent creator to do more than merely create. It can be the most beautiful, technically advanced, cutting edge watch out there. But if nobody knows about it, nobody buys it.

We are ready to find out who's next. So big brands? The ball's in your court. And I hope that the independents maintain their independence. If the big dogs aren't willing or able to take some chances? Let them labor on in mediocrity.

Vanitas – L’EPEE 1839

From Fiona Kruger and L'EPEE 1839.

Limited to 50 pieces, and available in the colorful version (above), as well as a "dark" version (below).

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Vanitas 

Display

Hours and minutes 

Power reserve indicator 

Main Structure

Height:
306 mm
Width:
220 mm
Thickness:
86 mm
Clock Weight:
Approx. 5 kg. with 2.2 kg just for the movement
'Dark' version:
Mat Housing in Black Anodized Aluminum with mineral glass
Colored version:
Mat Housing in Black Anodized Aluminum with mineral glass

Movement

L’Epée in-house designed and manufactured movement 
Balance frequency:
18.000 vph / 2.5Hz
Barrels:
5 in series
Power reserve:
35 days
Jewels:
11
Incabloc shock protection system
Manual-winding:
Double-ended key to set time and wind movement on the skull face
'Dark' version:

Mechanism in palladium-coated brass Movement Main plates in black PVD coated brass Multi-layered screen printed white decoration (gloss ink). 
Colored Version:

Mechanism in palladium-coated brass Movement Main plate in brass black PVD coating Multi-coloured screen-printed pattern (gloss ink). Each colour used in the design of the clock was specially selected as it represents a specif- ic meaning pertaining to the Dia de Los Muertos celebration: Blue = Trust, White = Purity, Orange = Sun, Yellow = Death, Pink = Celebration, Red
= Life and Purple = Grief and Black = Mortality (hence the black PVD coating)

As it is International Women's Day

I thought I'd re-heat two posts.  Let's hope the industry (yes, that is you middle-aged white men) will start making a greater effort to recognize some of the very talented, very qualified, and all-too-often overlooked women in the industry.  So part one -

The Sapphire Crystal Ceiling

So over the past few months here in the US there has been much debate about what is commonly known as the glass ceiling.  That invisible, yet very real barrier that prevents women and those not noticeably white from advancing in business, politics and pretty much any other endeavor.  This is a blog with one very simple editorial rule, a post must be written in between the time I have the coffee made to the time I have to head out the door to go teach.  So needless to say, the glass ceiling is not a topic that I can even attempt to broach in this limited space.

But in the watch industry there is another, very real barrier that I have decided to call the sapphire crystal ceiling.  Think I'm full of it?

Then riddle me this - how many CEOs of the major Swiss brands are female?  And any major watch players who have skin that might be considered a shade darker than Southern European?  Women, as we all know, tend to make up the Public Relations, Communications and in VERY rare situations might be in Marketing.  In fairness, that is a stereotype.  But as we know, most stereotypes are based in some prior reality.  Aletta Stas-Bax of Frederique Constant/Alpina remains a very welcome presence as a member of the senior management team.  Sadly, she is a rare example.  With Fiona Kruger hanging out her shingle, we will hopefully see more and more women get involved at more significant levels, actually creating their own brands.  And here is a wild suggestion to the old white boys - take the time to talk to the women in your team and force yourself to imagine that maybe, just maybe they might be as good, and in some instances even better than the men you so frequently, typically, and foolishly defer to.  I realize that if her last name is Hayek you don't really have a choice, but try to imagine that a woman might just actually know just as much, if not more than the 25 year old snot-nose you just dispatched to the US to "complete his training".

And what of color?
Well, it would seem to be a paler shade of white.  Now in fairness, there are some Swiss companies that have been purchased in part or in whole by Asian investors.  And in those situations you will see non-white (Chinese) senior management.  But apart from that, I would defy you to point to any significant representation of people of color other than people in advertisements or the paid brand ambassadors.  I have visited three major watch brands HQs and, sorry, it is a "white out".  HR offices can actually do the wild and crazy thing and try to find under represented groups.  And moreover, there's a wonderful training program being offered by Tourneau that is training young, at risk youth (many of them who are not exactly white), and this would be a PERFECT recruitment source for you!  The talent is out there, you just might have to try a little harder.  You certainly have the resources ; )

So Swiss and German and Japanese brands - get your heads out of your asses, it's 2017!

The Shit That Killed Elvis 9 / 12

Courtesy of Fiona Kruger Timepieces

Every now and then you will encounter something that knocks you on your ass... in a good way!  And for me that was my experience when I encountered the watches designed by Fiona Kruger, and sold by her brand Fiona Kruger Timepieces.

Now I don't know that I could necessarily carry this one off myself, but it is pretty fab.  Everyone and their dog is making a watch with a skull or skeleton on the dial, but not everyone is making a watch whose case is designed around the shape of a skull.  That, as they say, is quite the other thing.

This one is the Celebration Skull.  A wonderful combination of just about every colorful aspect you could imagine.  It is not for everyone, and that's okay.  Some things should be unique, should be special, should not be on every wrist.

Here are the pertinents -

Case material & colour
Stainless Steel 316N with specifically designed back opening

Case size
57.4 x 41.3 mm (length x width), 10.9mm thick

Glass
Sapphire (front and back)

Colour of dial & style
3 layered dial in stainless steel 316N with hand-painted décor in in 7 specially
selected coloured lacquers and superluminova + new date feature
Layer 1: Hand-polished stainless steel with black PVD coating, hand painted lacquer and superluminova décor
Layer 2: Shotblasted stainless steel with Rhodium treatment, hand-painted lacquer and superluminova décor
Layer 3: Hand-finished with Circular graining (perlage) with Rhodium treatment, hand-painted lacquer and superluminova décor

Hands
Blued Steel

Movement
Mechanical Automatic movement, TT738 with skeletonised and custom- black PVD coated bridges, customised oscillating mass with skeletonisation, engraving and hand-painting, and custom-made date wheel

Buckle
Steel pin buckle

Bracelets
Hand-stitched calf leather

The Sapphire Crystal Ceiling

So over the past few months here in the US there has been much debate about what is commonly known as the glass ceiling.  That invisible, yet very real barrier that prevents women and those not noticeably white from advancing in business, politics and pretty much any other endeavor.  This is a blog with one very simple editorial rule, a post must be written in between the time I have the coffee made to the time I have to head out the door to go teach.  So needless to say, the glass ceiling is not a topic that I can even attempt to broach in this limited space.

But in the watch industry there is another, very real barrier that I have decided to call the sapphire crystal ceiling.  Think I'm full of it?

Then riddle me this - how many CEOs of the major Swiss brands are female?  And any major watch players who have skin that might be considered a shade darker that Southern European?  Women, as we all know, tend to make up the Public Relations, Communications and in VERY rare situations might be in Marketing.  In fairness, that is a stereotype.  But as we know most stereotypes are based in some prior reality.  Aletta Stas-Bax of Frederique Constant/Alpina remains a very welcome presence as a member of the senior management team.  Sadly, she is a rare example.  With Fiona Kruger hanging out her shingle, we will hopefully see more and more women get involved at more significant levels.  And here is a wild suggestion to the old white boys - take the time to talk to the women in your team and force yourself to imagine that maybe, just maybe they might be as good, and in some instances even better than the men you so frequently, typically, and foolishly defer to.  I realize that if her last name is Hayek you don't really have a choice, but try to imagine that a woman might just actually know just as much, if not more than the 25 year old snot-nose you just dispatched to the US to "complete his training".

And what of color?
Well, it would seem to be a paler shade of white.  Now in fairness, there are some Swiss companies that have been purchased in part or in whole by Asian investors.  And in those situations you will see non-white (Chinese) senior management.  But apart from that, I would defy you to point to any significant representation of people of color other than people in advertisements or the paid brand ambassadors.  I have visited three major watch brands HQs and, sorry, it is a "white out".  HR offices can actually do the wild and crazy thing and try to find under represented groups.  And moreover, there's a wonderful training program being offered by Tourneau that is training young, at risk youth (many of them who are not exactly white), and this would be a PERFECT recruitment source for you!  The talent is out there, you just might have to try a little harder.  You certainly have the resources ; )

So Swiss and German and Japanese brands - get your heads out of your asses, it's 2016!

What I Like - Part the Second

Yesterday's post left me with a warm and fuzzy glow, so why not push a bit further?  Here are another five things that I find to be pretty swell!

1.  (actually 2 things) Seiko makes a lot of interesting watches.  Not all are available everywhere.  I might be wrong, but I believe that these two beauties are not available in the US market place.  If Seiko's US expert and brand champion Joe Kirk is reading this he can weigh in ; )

Shamelessly borrowed from Seiya Japan

This lovely chronograph boasts an "enamelled" dial.  It is strikingly good looking, and comes in at $2,748 US.

Shamelessly borrowed from Seiya Japan

And this one is by far and away my favorite.  The dial is described as "urushi".

Here are the pertinents -

SEIKO Automatic Presage SARX029

Ref: SARX029 (Made in Japan)

Urushi Printed Dial

DetailsListed price: 118,800 JPY
Case: SSMax wrist size: 18.5cm(7in1/4)
Crystal: Sapphire/ See-through back (Hardlex)
Diameter: 40.5 mm (without the crown)
Thickness: 13.2 mm
Movement: 6R15 23J Automatic (with Hand winding and Hack function)
Accuracy: +25/-15 sec/day
Power reserve: 50 hours
10 ATM water resistance

2.  Carter Beats the Devil -

Shamelessly borrowed by the world-wide info web

If you only read one book this year... well then let's face it, you just don't read that much do you?

But seriously, Glen David Gold's book is without a doubt one of my all time favorite novels.  It combines history, intrigue and the ultimate come-back / big pay back ending.  

3.  The watches of Fiona Kruger -

Courtesy of Fiona Kruger

I've never worn one, but had the privilege of checking them out at BaselWorld this past March.  They are wild, fun, and special.  Let's hope she keeps making them, and the public keeps buying them.  The watch world needs more of this sort of thing, as it does not appear that Alain Silberstein is coming back any time soon.

4.  Heart of Midlothian Football Club -

Shamelessly borrowed Hearts FC

It is often said that you don't choose the club you support, that it chooses you.  Well that can truly be said about my relationship with the Jambos.  Heart of Midlothian, (or Hearts) is based in Edinburgh and have quietly fought the good fight against the Old Firm of Celtic & Rangers.  But more than backing the Don Quixote of the Scottish Premier League, I am a fan of their partnership with Save the Children.  

5.  The Pelikan Toledo -

Courtesy of Pelikan

This one is not at all rational.  The Toledo is a beautiful pen, but it is clearly something for special occasions only.  I do not foresee signing any treaties, trade agreements or multi-million dollar contracts to play in the midfield of Juventus (or Hearts for that matter), but this is a beautiful pen, and one to tell your story with.

Making Skulls a Little Less Scary - Fiona Kruger

Now those who know me would attest that when you think of Henki, your first thoughts don't turn to skeletons or skulls.  But there are skulls, and then there are skulls!  The work of Fiona Kruger belongs to the latter.

Courtesy of Fiona Kruger

This is the Celebration Skull from Fiona Kruger.  Limited to 24 pieces and assembled by hand in Switzerland.

The watches are very intriguing and the attention to detail is what you would expect from an artist of Fiona Kruger's stature.

At a fair where it seems that all you hear is:  "championing the timeless values of horology..."

or:  "our latest celebrity ambassador is..."  As a good friend of mine from Bienne puts it:  "a lot of hot air produced in the gas factory".  So it was downright refreshing to see someone really applying art and craft to what can sometimes be a fairly pedestrian endeavor - watch making.  Because if I am honest, the watches are beautiful and certainly something that I would wear (despite my admitted anxiety about the undead).  But more than just the watches themselves is the story behind them.  A young artist travels to Switzerland from Scotland to study, discovers watches, and creativity took over.

You will notice the book that Fiona Kruger is leafing through?  It is what you might call the "creation story" of her watches.  All of the sketches, the inspirations, the musings.  This "sketch book" is almost as interesting as the watches themselves.  All too often we get the glib press release, reflecting on the true spirit of Swiss watch making with time honored traditions, hairsprings crafted in secret caves, dials lacquered with the tears of Arcadian nymphs...

Courtesy of Fiona Kruger

This is something different again.  And as someone who occasionally writes about these things, these watches were a very welcome addition to BaselWorld this year.

Ms. Kruger was kind enough to indicate that she might be willing to participate in an interview and give some more background, so stay tuned!

For now, here are the pertinents for the Celebration Skull, courtesy of Fiona Kruger -

Courtesy of Fiona Kruger

Celebration Skull

Case material & colour

Stainless Steel 316N with specifically designed back opening 

Case size 

57.4 x 41.3 mm (length x width), 10.9mm thick

Glass 

Sapphire (front and back) 

Colour of dial & style 

3 layered dial in stainless steel 316N with hand-painted décor in in 7 specially selected coloured lacquers and superluminova + new date feature
Layer 1: Hand-polished stainless steel with black PVD coating, hand painted lacquer and superluminova décor
Layer 2: Shotblasted stainless steel with Rhodium treatment, hand-painted lacquer and superluminova décor
Layer 3: Hand-finished with Circular graining (perlage) with Rhodium treatment, hand- painted lacquer and superluminova décor

Hands 

Blued Steel 

Movement 

Mechanical Automatic movement, TT738 with skeletonised and custom- black PVD coated bridges, customised oscillating mass with skeletonisation, engraving and hand-painting, and custom-made date wheel 

Buckle 

Steel pin buckle 

Bracelets 

Hand-stitched calf leather