The BR-03 Diver Black Bronze

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest member of the BR-03 family - the Diver Black Bronze.

The case is true to the BR-03 DNA. It is of bronze and measures 42 mm wide and is 12.3 mm thick.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The movement is noted as Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Self-winding, automatic.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Water resistant to 300 meters, and a lume to light up the night.

Limited to 999 pieces, and priced at $5,500.

Here are the pertinents -

Technical Specifications

Movement : Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic mechanical movement. 54-hour power reserve.

Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case : 42 mm wide. 12.3 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished CuSn8 bronze. Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute scale in bronze, with white SuperLumiNova® X1 marking (green glow) and polished black ceramic ring. Screw-down crown with crown guard. Steel case-back.

Dial : Black, coated with glossy lacquer. “Baignoire-style” applique indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova® (green glow). Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® (green glow).

Crystal : Anti-reflective sapphire.

Water resistance : 300 metres.

Strap : Black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished bronze.

Not Exactly New - But New To Me...Millemetri

 Yes, you read that right - Millemetri!

Courtesy of Millemetri

So regular readers of the "Blog Formerly Known as Tempus Fugit" will recall that I have a long and winding relationship with Anonimo.

It is safe to say that without Federico Massacesi, there would have been no Anonimo. And although a slight blip with a brand named for Dino Zei that never quite came to fruition, with Millemetri it seems that there is finally (hopefully) something to replace the much loved (and in truth, often misunderstood) Anonimo Firenze (i.e. not the modern Anonimo currently languishing in Le Locle), but the original.

What sank the original Anonimo is hard to say, but what is currently throttling the new Swiss iteration is a lack of attention from the current stewards, as well as a collection of watches that (apart from the Militare) could be part of any collection, anywhere.

So what makes the Millemetri special? For one, the cases. Apart from the mystique of being a watch that better embodied the original Panerai than even the reborn Swiss Panerai, it was the Florentine cases. Add to that the Kodiak straps and it was truly lightening in a bottle.

The Millemetri was arguably the one design that Anonimo did the best with - at least it was when I was selling them at Tourneau in San Francisco back at the turn of the century ; )

The entry point of the Millemetri collection is the Augusta. It comes in three dial versions - black, blue, and Coffee (which is pictured above).

In addition to Florentine made cases, it also boasts a strap that might have a technological twist to offer an alternative to the Kodiak straps that the original Anonimo used - It is referenced as the AlaskaProTr.01 process (as of 2023 it was patent pending, I hope to get an update for you, gentle reader). Like the Kodiak process, it conditions the leather is such a way that it can be submerged in both fresh and salt water for up to 24 hours.

Back to the case - as mentioned, it is crafted in Florence, utilizing a special bronze alloy - UNI52575. It measures 42.80 in diameter. It features an automatic helium release valve (at 2 o'clock). The crown and escape valve are crafted of stainless steel, as is the case back.

The movement remains somewhat of a mystery to me as on the Millemetri site it is listed as Landeron, whereas at least one retailer indicates that it is either Landeron, or Sellita. My hope would be for Sellita.

The retail listed for the Augusta is listed at $1,959 on their website. 

I hope to be back with more details on the Millemetri collection. Although it is not "new", it is new to me, and I have a soft spot for Florentine watch making ; )

The BELZA Bronze Edition

From March LAB -

Courtesy of March LAB

This is the latest offering form March LAB. It is a departure from the signature green, sporting a black dial with white indices. The case is of bronze, measuring 41 mm with a water resistance rated to 200 meters.

Courtesy of March LAB

The BELZA Bronze Edition is available direct from March LAB for $2,027.00.

Here are the pertinents -

• 40 mm round bronze case
• Thickness 14.5mm
• 120-click rotating black ceramic bezel
• Screw-down crown
• Swiss Caliber La Joux-Perret G100
• About 68 hours of power reserve
• Movement assembled in France
• Black sandblasted dial
• Personalized date stamp
• Hands and indexes with Super Luminova
• Strap width 20 mm
• Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
• Screwed back engraved BELZA
• Water resistant to 20 ATM
• 200M
• 2 years warranty

The Tiefenmesser Tourbillon

For ONLY WATCH 23 -

Courtesy of Reservoir

This is the ONLY WATCH entry from Reservoir.

Here are the details:

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Ref. RSV03.TF/136.OW - unique piece

CASE
– 43mm bronze case
– White enamel “Grand Feu” dial Blue hand
– Screw-down crown, water resistant to 3 ATM
– 360° open case back, stainless steel
– Non-reflective sapphire crystal

MOVEMENT
– Retrograde minutes and jumping hours, regulator style
– Double barrel mechanical movement, automatic winding, 437 components, 46 jewels
– Grand Tourbillon at 6 o’clock
– Variable-inertia balance wheel with fixed balance-spring stud
– Power reserve: 60 hours
– Frequency: 4Hz (28,800vph)
– Swiss Made

STRAP
– Blue alligator leather strap, width: 22mm
– Stainless steel and bronze butterfly deployment clasp

DISPLAY CASE
– Luxury wooden display case

The BR 01 Cyber Skull

From Bell & Ross - 

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This little nugget dropped this AM from the nice folks in Paris / CT.

This version of the Skull marks the latest iteration of the Skull's talisman connection to Bell & Ross and the BR 01, which first came out in 2009 with the BR 01 Skull. This bronze version is limited to 500 pieces.

Here are the pertinents:

Movement:
BR-CAL.210. Manufacture. Hand-wound mechanical.


Functions:
hours and minutes. Moving skull jawbone when wound by hand.


Case:
45 mm x 46.7 mm. 13.70 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished CuSn8 bronze. Sapphire and CuAI7Si2 bronze case- back.


Dial:
skeletonised. Rose gold-plated brass skull (or bronze- coloured skull). Gilt metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®- filled hour and minute hands. Balance at 12 o’clock.


Crystal:
sapphire with anti-reflective coating


Water Resistance:
50 metres.


Strap:
Black Rubber


Buckle:
pin. Satin-finished and polished CuAI7Si2 bronze.

This is a pre-order watch (only) and will start delivering in February.
The price of admission is $11,400.00

The BR 03-92 DIVER RED BRONZE

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Some tasty bronze diving drip to start your day! Limited to 999 pieces.
Here are the pertinents -

Limited edition of 999 pieces.

Movement: 

calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: 

hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case: 

42 mm in width. Satin-finished and polished CuSn8 bronze. Unidirectional rotating solid bronze bezel with 60-minute scale and red anodised aluminium ring. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Steel case-back.

Dial: 

red. Gold plated applique indices with Super-LumiNova® inserts. Gold plated metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour, minute and seconds hands.

Crystal: 

sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 

300 metres

Straps: 

brown coloured calfskin leather and woven black rubber.

Buckle: 

pin. Satin-finished and polished bronze.

Squaring the Circle

With Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

A curious thing about dive watches, they are almost invariably round.  And in fairness, that makes sense seeing as most watches by and large are round ; )

And you know what?  A limited world view as it pertains to the shape of dive watches is, well it's a bit limiting ; )  

Now in the past, Bell & Ross did produce a round diver or two.  And full disclosure, I don't know that I ever fully warmed to the whole Bell & Ross "instrument panel" pilot watch thing.  But as it pertains to a diver - and as this baby is bronze, in many instances it will be more of a desk diver, it's got a certain "what's-it".

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Sorta' steampunk.  It's the type of watch that Jules Verne would have given Captain Nemo if the movie was being re-cast with Henry Rollins as Nemo, and the soundtrack by The Clash.  And in the best possible way!  This is the BR 03-92 Diver Bronze Navy Blue.  

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This one is limited to 250 pieces and may well have come and gone already, but should you be so inclined, here are the pertinents -

Limited edition of 250 pieces.

Movement: 

calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: 

hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case: 

42 mm in diameter. Satin-polished CuSn8 bronze. Unidirectional rotating solid bronze bezel with 60-minute scale.

Dial: 

blue. Gold-plated applique indices with Super-LumiNova® inserts. Gold-plated skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hands.

Crystal: 

sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 

300 metres.

Straps: 

blue calfskin leather and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric

Buckle: pin. Bronze.

The Admiral 42 Automatic Bronze

From Corum -

Courtesy of Corum

The case is of bronze and measures 43 mm in diameter. Water resistant to 50 meters. The movement is the CO 395.  Hours, minutes, small seconds and date at 3 o'clock.

Available in blue or green.

The BR V2-94 AÉRONAVALE BRONZE

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Of the three BaselWorld previews, this is perhaps my favorite!

Here are the pertinents -

Movement: BR-CAL.301. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock and date. 

Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds.

Case: 41 mm in diameter. 

CuAI7Si2 bronze. 

Bezel with anodized blue aluminum ring and 60-minute scale. 

Screw-down crown and push-buttons. Sapphire case back.

Dial: blue sunray. 

Gilded and polished numerals and indices. 

Satin-polished and gilded skeleton Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal: ultra-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating. 

Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Strap: blue calfskin.

Buckle: satin-polished bronze

You Never Get Over your First Love

Eterna, on the whole, reminds me that we very seldom operate from a place of rationality.  And if we're being honest with each other, that runs true in pretty much every facet of the luxury industry.  Common sense tells you that, in essence, it's just a watch.  Calm down, collect your thoughts, be reasonable...

Courtesy of Eterna

Now my common sense tells me that Eterna is, at the moment, not exactly living its "best life".   If my inside sources are to be believed, there is no actual CEO pulling the levers, but rather a consultant who is, well... consulting.  And in the big scheme of things?  Nothing wrong with that, as my understanding they are in "Sleeping Beauty" mode, waiting for Prince Charming to plant one on them.  The head of the movement division has "moved on", and suffice it to say, nobody is entirely sure as to what's next.

But obsession is a very curious thing, and so long as it is kept in a relatively healthy perspective, I suppose that there are worse things to be obsessed about than the Kontiki Bronze Diver.  I can rationalize all that I want, but for me Eterna has always been a romantic connection.  Something that I have never been able to adequately explain in black and white.  It is, I guess, my own sense of Eterna sais quoi.

Although it was a limited edition a few years back, it appears to still be available.  For those so inclined, here are the pertinents -

Ref: 1291.78.51.1430

MOVEMENT
Calibre Maison Eterna EMC 3902A, power reserve 65h, 28’800 v.p.h, 30 jewels, 1 ball bearing

CASE
All brushed bronze, rotating bezel with green ceramic ring, case back secured with screw, sapphire crystal opening in stainless steel
 

CRYSTAL
Scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
 

DIMENSIONS
∅ 44 mm / 14.05 mm
DIAL
Green, matte structured
 

STRAP & CLASP
Brown waterproof leather strap, bronze pin buckle
 

FUNCTIONS
Hour, minute, second

I for one would really like to see a feel-good, love story-triumphant comeback.  But for now I will live with my obsession.

The New Pilot 42 Handwound

From Archimede -

Courtesy of Archimede

Archimede announced the release of two new slightly smaller hand wound pilot watches in a more accessible 42 mm size.   Available in bronze (above), and in steel (below).  For the bronze model, here are the pertinents -

Courtesy of Archimede

 ICKLER Case

The high-quality case is manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim.

Bronze case (CuSn8), brushed, sapphire crystal with antireflective coating, screw down case back (stainless steel) with mineral crystal (optional: solid case back) Pilot's crown made of Bronze, waterresistant to 5 ATM diameter 42 mm, lug-to-lug length 51 mm

Movement
Hand wound movement Eta 6498, Swiss Made

Dial

Black, with luminous numerals and indexes
Blue hands with white luminous

Band

Black leather strap with Bronze rivets and Bronze buckle (wrist size: 18,5 - 22cm)

Delivery time

1 - 2 Weeks

And for the stainless steel model -

Courtesy of Archimede

 ICKLER Case

The high-quality case is manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim.

Brushed finish, sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides, screw down case back: with mineral crystal (optional: solid case back), pilot's crown, water resistant to 5 ATM, diameter 42 mm, lug-to-lug length 51 mm

Movement
Hand wound movement Eta 6498, Swiss Made

Dial

Black, with luminous numerals and indexes
Blue hands with white luminous

Band

Black leather strap with Bronze rivets and Bronze buckle (wrist size: 18,5 - 22cm)

Delivery time

1 - 2 Weeks

The SportTaucher Bronze

From Archimede -

Courtesy of Archimede

Introducing Pinion!

So yesterday's opening of Salon QP also ushered in a new watch company from England - Pinion!

Courtesy of Pinion

This is the Axis - available in three versions.  Including Black DLC,

Courtesy of Pinion

Bronze (above) and stainless steel (below).

Courtesy of Pinion

Here is the info, straight from Pinion -

The watch, which is designed in England is influenced by the sharp designs of early 20th century military timepieces and instruments. The pure function of timekeeping with the Axis is straightforward due to the highly legible dial and coated sapphire crystal allowing clear vision of the time and date from all angles and lighting conditions.

Housed in a versatile 42mm steel case which is made from a single solid block of stainless steel and water resistant to 100 metres, the Axis is extremely robust. This structural integrity also employs shock resistance for the movement, making it perfect for multipurpose wear.

At the heart of every Pinion Axis is a highly dependable Swiss made automatic movement (ETA 2824-2) which is renowned for it’s reliability and accuracy having been used by fine watchmakers worldwide for many years. With 8 beats per second (28,800 per hour) the movement allows for high accuracy and when fully wound has a power reserve of 40 hours. The power is retained by wearing the watch, as subtle wrist movements power a winding rotor to keep the watch fully wound.

Completing the Axis, is a leather strap which is hand stitched and made from the finest hides and fastened to the wrist with a Pinion buckle.

The Pinion Axis has been designed and manufactured to the highest of standards using bespoke made Swiss and English parts. Any case treatment such as DLC coating and final finishing is conducted in England, prior to the watches being assembled and tested here by our highly experienced watchmakers.
Every Pinion Axis will be presented in a English made leather wallet. This will house the watch, manual, warranty card and each watch will be covered by an international 2 year manufacturers warranty.

PRICING AND AVAILABILITY
The following prices show UK retail (inc. VAT) and example US Dollars.
Axis Steel: £1,950 / $2,800 Axis Black: £2,150 / $3,000 Axis Bronze: £2,350 / $3,300
The watches will be available to order and buy from December, through Pinion direct or selected retailers and will be built and ready to ship in January 2014.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Movement: Self winding automatic Swiss movement ETA 2824-2, 25 jewels, power reserve 38
hours, 28,800bph, Pinion decorated rotor. Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case: Stainless steel with brushed finish / Stainless steel with DLC coating / Bronze with brushed finish 42mm in diameter (excluding crown) strap lug width 22mm. Steel engraved screw down caseback with watch serial number engraving.Steel crown at 3H.
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Dial: Satin black dial / Military green dial with numerals and indexes covered with Swiss
Superluminova® coating.
Hands: Steel hands with Swiss Superluminova® coating.
Water resistance: 10ATM (100 metres)
Strap: Hand made 22mm leather strap tapering to 20mm with a stainless steel pin buckle. 
Packaging: Leather wallet (Handmade in England)


ABOUT PINION

Founded in 2013 and based in South Oxfordshire, England, Pinion is a watch company that produces fine watches which are designed, finished, assembled and tested in the UK to the highest of standards.
The debut collection, called the ‘Pinion Axis’ is a timeless watch design presented in three variants: Steel, Black and Bronze. The 42mm timepiece has been designed to evoke: Simplicity, high legibility and hard-wearing robustness for daily and exceptional uses.

Pinion Watch Company is the vision and creation of experienced designer, Piers Berry. With many years in graphics and digital media, Piers’ love for watches and mechanical instruments inspired him to design his own watch and in doing so, created the Pinion Axis.

Not content with just the watch design, every aspect of Pinion is designed and produced by Piers. From the straps and packaging through to the watch photography and digital media, everything is painstakingly created by Piers to ensure his original vision is to exacting standards and the finest of quality.

The name 'Pinion' originates from the small but significant gear wheels, that sit at the very heart of every mechanical timepiece and are often used to drive the more visible parts like the hands in a watch. Being a small independent watch company, Pinion passionately embodies watchmaking from the heart.

THE MOTION WORKS
The Motion Works is the name for Pinion’s watch assembly and service centre which is based in England. Our watchmakers are qualified BHI (British Horology Institute) members and carrying many years of experience and knowledge, providing excellent technical assistance and support for our watches.
When making a Pinion watch, each one is first assembled with precision and care. Once complete, the watches are regulated and adjusted for timekeeping accuracy before being pressure tested for water resistance.
Every Pinion watch is supported by an international two year warranty. 

The Pilot 42H Bronze from ARCHIMEDE

This just in from ARCHIMEDE -



Courtesy of ARCHIMEDE

ARCHIMEDE offers the Pilot 42 H with a case made of Bronze.