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| Courtesy of M.A.D. Editions |
So, I am bewitched. I have always been intrigued by the M.A.D. Editions, but this latest one, featuring the work of one of my watch making heroes. So I'll come back to this very, very exciting drop, but I wanted to take a quick moment to hop in the wayback machine to re-tell the time I drove 6 + hours roundtrip to meet the man behind this watch.
It's hard to believe that it's been nearly 13 years now, but Tempus really does
Fugit ; )
This post from "the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit originally ran in November of 2013. I was working at a university in California, and would jump at every chance I had when a watchmaker came to the Los Angeles area.
A Few Words About the Joy of Failure with Vincent Calabrese
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| The author (read shameless fan) getting an autograph |
So yesterday:
Up at 5:00 am for Skype calls with 2 different clients in Switzerland, write blog post, feed the cat, get cleaned up, off to the U for a 9:00 AM start.
1:10 P.M. - car fueled-up, on the road
2 hours and 40 minutes later, arrive at Chong Hing to meet with Florence Delorme of Corum and one of my all time favorite watch makers - Vincent Calabrese. And it dawned on me during the 3 + hour return trip home how lucky I felt to be delayed with so much time in the car to reflect.... but I'm getting ahead of myself.
When I first started working for DOXA it was in many ways a bit of a dream come true. Every day working with watches - getting paid to talk about my hobby! But of course that is what we think it is going to be like when reading all of the glitzy & glossy magazines. The watch industry had to be this amazing place were everyone looked great, made a lot of money and was endlessly interesting.
Two of the greatest lessons that I learned during my time at DOXA and since then are that:
A. As much as the magazines and forums would have you believe, the watch world is like every professional "world" - as much as you'd like it to be, it is NOT always a meritocracy. And that is true at every level of the industry.
B. For better or worse, it often comes down to money. Money can (and sadly does) apparently forgive a great many sins. And some of the most talented people are often left out in the cold, in the "other" spaces. This was how I often felt working for a smaller brand. You struggle, fight and endlessly campaign for publicity and market share. And the frustration of seeing some truly indifferent folks make pots of money while doing very little could sour you pretty quickly.
So what happens when you are passionate? When you want to do more than just "punch the clock"? What happens when you are already a bit of an outsider? People more concerned about your nationality and paper qualifications than with your actual abilities? Pretty easy to consider that unlucky. Pretty easy to consider your life's work a failure.
But then again, not everyone is Vincent Calabrese.
Two of the greatest lessons that I learned during my time at DOXA and since then are that:
A. As much as the magazines and forums would have you believe, the watch world is like every professional "world" - as much as you'd like it to be, it is NOT always a meritocracy. And that is true at every level of the industry.
B. For better or worse, it often comes down to money. Money can (and sadly does) apparently forgive a great many sins. And some of the most talented people are often left out in the cold, in the "other" spaces. This was how I often felt working for a smaller brand. You struggle, fight and endlessly campaign for publicity and market share. And the frustration of seeing some truly indifferent folks make pots of money while doing very little could sour you pretty quickly.
So what happens when you are passionate? When you want to do more than just "punch the clock"? What happens when you are already a bit of an outsider? People more concerned about your nationality and paper qualifications than with your actual abilities? Pretty easy to consider that unlucky. Pretty easy to consider your life's work a failure.
But then again, not everyone is Vincent Calabrese.
Many other, better writers have covered him, but what you may not know or understand is that the Golden Bridge is (at least according to Mr. Calabrese) a child born of several fortunate failures.
Failure #1 - Vincent Calabrese leaves school somewhat prematurely, forced to find work. Fortunate result #1 - Vincent Calabrese gets an apprenticeship to learn watch repair. Buys tools, starts work.
Failure #2 - Original apprentice returns, Vincent Calabrese is forced to go out on his own.
Fortunate result #2 - He starts repairing watches around town.
Failure #3 - No "formal" training. Fortunate result #3 - without a teacher to tell him how to do something, or that something is not possible. So he must learn to do everything himself, and never works in fear of the impossible.
Failure # 4 - Goes to Switzerland to avoid military conscription. Fortunate result #4 - moves in with an uncle who then introduces him to Tissot.
Failure #5 - After several spells at different brands has had enough. Fortunate result #5 - works at a small store, making creative customizations for customers. And it is here that the Golden Bridge is born.
Failure #6 - No money. Fortunate result #6 - must learn to do everything himself!
Failure #7 - Needs to find financial backing for the Golden Bridge and hits the street to "sell" his baby. Patek and others say thanks, but no thanks. Fortunate result #7 - Corum says yes!
Now granted, this has been a very long journey starting in the early 70s and in some ways only coming full circle now, but to see the hard work and dedication finally and truly rewarded with Corum's new focus on the Golden Bridge is the real reason why I like to write about people in the industry.
So well done Vincent Calabrese and Corum - and may all of your failures be fortunate ones!
Failure #1 - Vincent Calabrese leaves school somewhat prematurely, forced to find work. Fortunate result #1 - Vincent Calabrese gets an apprenticeship to learn watch repair. Buys tools, starts work.
Failure #2 - Original apprentice returns, Vincent Calabrese is forced to go out on his own.
Fortunate result #2 - He starts repairing watches around town.
Failure #3 - No "formal" training. Fortunate result #3 - without a teacher to tell him how to do something, or that something is not possible. So he must learn to do everything himself, and never works in fear of the impossible.
Failure # 4 - Goes to Switzerland to avoid military conscription. Fortunate result #4 - moves in with an uncle who then introduces him to Tissot.
Failure #5 - After several spells at different brands has had enough. Fortunate result #5 - works at a small store, making creative customizations for customers. And it is here that the Golden Bridge is born.
Failure #6 - No money. Fortunate result #6 - must learn to do everything himself!
Failure #7 - Needs to find financial backing for the Golden Bridge and hits the street to "sell" his baby. Patek and others say thanks, but no thanks. Fortunate result #7 - Corum says yes!
Now granted, this has been a very long journey starting in the early 70s and in some ways only coming full circle now, but to see the hard work and dedication finally and truly rewarded with Corum's new focus on the Golden Bridge is the real reason why I like to write about people in the industry.
So well done Vincent Calabrese and Corum - and may all of your failures be fortunate ones!
And back to the present and this beguiling new time machine - the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese. This particular (blue) version will have the usual lottery system allowing you to register your intention to purchase should you get one of the lucky tickets.
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| Courtesy of M.A.D. Editions |
Limited to 1,500 peices - perhaps Henki will finally get lucky ; )
Here are the pertinents -
Case
Stainless steel 316L
Dimensions: diameter 40mm x height 12.7mm
Lug-to-lug: 43.7mm / lug width: 21mm
Water resistance: 30m / 3ATM / 90 feet
Top sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Bottom sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating on inside face
Movement
Base movement: Swiss made Manufacture La Joux-Perret calibre G111
Bi-directional jumping hour and trailing minutes module developed by MB&F
Case fitting diameter: 25.6mm / 11 ½’’
Height: 4.45mm
Balance/Frequency: 4Hz / 28’800
Jewels: 24
Power reserve: 55 Hours
Automatic winding
Strap & Buckle
Leather strap with stainless steel folding buckle
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