It's Still a Mad, Mad, Mad World!

Just ask Vincent Calabrese and the folks at M.A.D. Editions ; )

Courtesy of M.A.D. Editions

So, I am bewitched. I have always been intrigued by the M.A.D. Editions, but this latest one, featuring the work of one of my watch making heroes. So I'll come back to this very, very exciting drop, but I wanted to take a quick moment to hop in the wayback machine to re-tell the time I drove 6 + hours roundtrip to meet the man behind this watch.

It's hard to believe that it's been nearly 13 years now, but Tempus really does 

Fugit ; )

This post from "the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit originally ran in November of 2013. I was working at a university in California, and would jump at every chance I had when a watchmaker came to the Los Angeles area.

A Few Words About the Joy of Failure with Vincent Calabrese

The author (read shameless fan) getting an autograph

So yesterday:
Up at 5:00 am for Skype calls with 2 different clients in Switzerland, write blog post, feed the cat, get cleaned up, off to the U for a 9:00 AM start.

1:10 P.M. - car fueled-up, on the road
2 hours and 40 minutes later, arrive at Chong Hing to meet with Florence Delorme of Corum and one of my all time favorite watch makers - Vincent Calabrese.  And it dawned on me during the 3 + hour return trip home how lucky I felt to be delayed with so much time in the car to reflect....   but I'm getting ahead of myself.

When I first started working for DOXA it was in many ways a bit of a dream come true.  Every day working with watches - getting paid to talk about my hobby!  But of course that is what we think it is going to be like when reading all of the glitzy & glossy magazines.  The watch industry had to be this amazing place were everyone looked great, made a lot of money and was endlessly interesting.

Two of the greatest lessons that I learned during my time at DOXA and since then are  that:

A.  As much as the magazines and forums would have you believe, the watch world is like every professional "world" - as much as you'd like it to be, it is NOT always a meritocracy.  And that is true at every level of the industry.

B.  For better or worse, it often comes down to money.  Money can (and sadly does) apparently forgive a great many sins.  And some of the most talented people are often left out in the cold, in the "other" spaces.  This was how I often felt working for a smaller brand.  You struggle, fight and endlessly campaign for publicity and market share.  And the frustration of seeing some truly indifferent folks make pots of money while doing very little could sour you pretty quickly.

So what happens when you are passionate?  When you want to do more than just "punch the clock"?  What happens when  you are already a bit of an outsider?  People more concerned about your nationality and paper qualifications than with your actual abilities?  Pretty easy to consider that unlucky.  Pretty easy to consider your life's work a failure.

But then again, not everyone is Vincent Calabrese.

Many other, better writers have covered him, but what you may not know or understand is that the Golden Bridge is (at least according to Mr. Calabrese) a child born of several fortunate failures.

Failure #1 - Vincent Calabrese leaves school somewhat prematurely, forced to find work.  Fortunate result #1 - Vincent Calabrese gets an apprenticeship to learn watch repair.  Buys tools, starts work.

Failure #2 - Original apprentice returns, Vincent Calabrese is forced to go out on his own.
Fortunate result #2 - He starts repairing watches around town.

Failure #3 - No "formal" training.  Fortunate result #3 - without a teacher to tell him how to do something, or that something is not possible.  So he must learn to do everything himself, and never works in fear of the impossible.

Failure # 4 - Goes to Switzerland to avoid military conscription. Fortunate result #4 - moves in with an uncle who then introduces him to Tissot.

Failure #5 - After several spells at different brands has had enough.  Fortunate result #5 - works at a small store, making creative customizations for customers.  And it is here that the Golden Bridge is born.

Failure #6 - No money.  Fortunate result #6 - must learn to do everything himself!

Failure #7 - Needs to find financial backing for the Golden Bridge and hits the street to "sell" his baby. Patek and others say thanks, but no thanks.  Fortunate result #7 - Corum says yes!

Now granted, this has been a very long journey starting in the early 70s and in some ways only coming full circle now, but to see the hard work and dedication finally and truly rewarded with Corum's new focus on the Golden Bridge is the real reason why I like to write about people in the industry.

So well done Vincent Calabrese and Corum - and may all of your failures be fortunate ones!

And back to the present and this beguiling new time machine - the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese. This particular (blue) version will have the usual lottery system allowing you to register your intention to purchase should you get one of the lucky tickets.

It is priced at CHF 2,900 excluding VAT.

Courtesy of M.A.D. Editions

Limited to 1,500 peices - perhaps Henki will finally get lucky ; )

Here are the pertinents -

Case
Stainless steel 316L
Dimensions: diameter 40mm x height 12.7mm
Lug-to-lug: 43.7mm / lug width: 21mm
Water resistance: 30m / 3ATM / 90 feet
Top sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Bottom sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating on inside face

Movement
Base movement: Swiss made Manufacture La Joux-Perret calibre G111
Bi-directional jumping hour and trailing minutes module developed by MB&F
Case fitting diameter: 25.6mm / 11 ½’’
Height: 4.45mm
Balance/Frequency: 4Hz / 28’800
Jewels: 24
Power reserve: 55 Hours
Automatic winding

Strap & Buckle
Leather strap with stainless steel folding buckle

The M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams”

From MB&F -

Courtesy of MB&F

This is the latest of the M.A.D. Editions heading for raffle, the "Grow Yor Dreams". 

Courtesy of MB&F

This latest collaboration is with Yinka Ilori. Per MB&F -

We are so happy to announce a new collaboration created with British-Nigerian artist and designer Yinka Ilori: the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’! Known for his bold use of color and playful designs, Yinka brings an exciting perspective to his first-ever watch collaboration. Maximilian Büsser discovered Ilori in 2023 and became an instant fan: “Yinka Ilori lives in a universe bursting with colour; his work makes you feel alive, like a rush of adrenaline pushing you to go further. This collaboration has created something that brings joy, a reminder to realise your own dreams”.

Courtesy of MB&F

Like the previous M.A.D. editions, this one will use a raffle to determine who gets to order one of these wonderful time machines -

The Raffle:

The raffle kicks off on Tuesday, September 2 at 2PM Swiss time and will stay open for one full week- plenty of time to sign up! 

The draw will happen right after it closes, and a few days later, we’ll reveal the lucky winners.

Here are the pertinents -

• While the 42mm case and Swiss-made LaJoux-Perret movement remain as in the M.A.D.1S, the titanium rotor has been entirely re-engineered: slimmer and milled with a tree motif, then anodised in yellow, green, or blue.

  
  

• Colourful time display featuring numerals by Ilori.

  
  

• Stamped aluminium baseplate adding 3D wave textures under the movement.

  
  

• Each model features mismatched rubber straps with stamped leaf patterns, and comes with a second interchangeable white strap.

Feeling lucky? If so, here is the link to participate in the raffle -

https://www.mbandf.com/madeditions/madeditions-raffles?mc_cid=be1247fe56&mc_eid=5a7c1d2a24

It's A Mad, Mad World - Part the Third!

This is the M.A.D.1 'TIME TO LOVE' -

Courtesy of M.A.D. Gallery

This is the latest iteration of the M.A.D. 1 series, the more accessible and affordable take on MB&F's horological treats.

Courtesy of M.A.D. Gallery

And this one definitely involves a friend, it took the design form of the previous M.A.D.1 watches, but was redecorated by French artist and designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.

And like previous iterations, you have to get the horological equivalent of Wonka's Golden Ticket to be able to purchase one. It is limited to 999 pieces total.

Price before taxes is CHF 3,200 (excluding VAT). Deliveries will take place from April to September 2024.

Here are the pertinents -

ENGINE

Inverted Miyota 8315 automatic movement with winding rotor on top and lateral time display system.
Revolving hour and minute rings in aluminium alloy, engraved numbers with Super-LumiNova.
Winding rotor in titanium and tungsten lacquered in red, green and blue, Super-LumiNova highlights.
Power reserve: 60 hours.
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21'600 a/h

CASE

Frame material: stainless steel.
Sapphire crystal on top, main section in mineral glass.
Diameter 42 mm, height 18.8 mm.
Water resistance: 30 m / 90 ft / 3 ATM

STRAP & BUCKLE

Each M.A.D.1 ‘Time to Love’ is accompanied by two straps: one in black and the other in white, both made of calfskin leather and adorned with 'Time To Love' embroidery. 
The folding buckle is crafted from stainless steel.

The M.A.D.1 ‘Time to Love’ will be limited to 999 pieces

It's A Mad, Mad, Mad World! Part 2

Perhaps one of the most talked about watches last year was one that almost nobody could get their hands on - the M.A.D.1. It was a special project that made an MB&F creation more affordable and accessible to two sets of folks near and dear to the success of MB&F - previous customers (or the Tribe), and people who have collaborated with MB&F in the past on various projects (suppliers, etc.).  While the materials were listed otherwise, many came to think of it as a time machine cunningly crafted of "unobtainium".

But  Maximilian Büsser clearly wants to connect with as many people as he and his company reasonably can. So he and his team spent the last year working on this little bijoux, the M.A.D.1 Red -

Long story short, for those of us on the outside (which in fairness, most of us are), we now have an opportunity to throw our hats in the ring with a chance to win one of the coveted slots to purchase our very own M.A.D.1 Red.  This will be done through a lottery system. Should you get one of the golden tickets, you will be contacted and given instructions on how to place your order.

Courtesy of MB&F and M.A.D.

As the images will show, many of the elements are the same, with some changes that Mr. Büsser  outlines in the YouTube video.

Courtesy of MB&F and M.A.D.

The price you pay, should you be one of the lucky winners will be - CHF 2900 excluding tax.

Courtesy of MB&F and M.A.D.

Should you be tempted to register for the lottery, here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

ENGINE

Inverted Miyota 821A automatic movement with winding rotor on top and lateral time display system.
Revolving hour and minute rings in aluminium alloy, engraved numbers with Super-LumiNova.
Winding rotor in titanium and tungsten, Super-LumiNova highlights.
Power reserve: 60 hours.
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21'600 a/h.

CASE

Frame material: stainless steel.
Sapphire crystal on top, main section in mineral glass.
Diameter 42 mm, height 18.8 mm.
Water resistance: 30 m / 90 ft / 3 ATM

STRAP & BUCKLE

Black calfskin leather with red stitching.
Folding buckle in stainless steel.

A Few Minutes With the Black Badger - James Thompson

Here’s to the crazy ones. The misfits. The rebels. The troublemakers. The round pegs in the square holes. The ones who see things differently. They’re not fond of rules. And they have no respect for the status quo. You can quote them, disagree with them, glorify or vilify them. About the only thing you can’t do is ignore them. Because they change things. They push the human race forward. And while some may see them as the crazy ones, we see genius. Because the people who are crazy enough to think they can change the world, are the ones who do.

Steve Jobs

As a now world-renowned contrarian, I appreciate the people out there who chart their own 

course. For the most part, the thinking in the watch business is beyond antiquated. To paraphrase from Michael Lewis and Moneyball, more often than not the decision making paradigm is governed by picking the option that is least likely to fail, rather than the one that might just be crazy enough to work.  In essence, the potential pain and associated anxiety of looking bad drives most of the folks in Watch Town down the path of least resistance. Well, as the advertising revenues of Tempus Fugit will bear out, I am a fan of anyone who is ready to tilt at the occasional windmill or two.

And now, without further adieu, a few minutes with the Black Badger himself, James Thompson - 

Courtesy of James Thompson

Henki (James Henderson) - What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

James Thompson (Black Badger) - Hmmm when I was about 10 I got a Swatch Radar from my parents for Christmas. I recall being a little offended that I got a “small” one while my older brother got a large one. No wonder I bought a bigass Bell & Ross BRO1 as my first “real” watch around 2008. A tank that i absolutely adore.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Henki - When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up?

James Thompson - A pilot. Top Gun was the first VHS tape we got growing up, and my brother and I would watch it every single day when we got home from elementary school. My mom still knows all the dialogue from overhearing it hundreds of times. I didn’t discover art or design until after high school


Henki - Where did you go to school? What did you study?

James Thompson - I bounced around a bit with what I thought I wanted to do and who I wanted to be. I studied advertising production as I have a massive love for good tv commercials. I did a masters degree in industrial design between the Emily Carr Institute in Vancouver and HDK design school in Göteborg Sweden where I live now.


Henki - How did you acquire your "nom de lume" - Black Badger? 

 
James Thompson - Honestly? I thought it sounded cool and kinda SpecOps. I think I read too many Tom Clancy novels. I didn’t take it very seriously in the early days but now that I am where I am, the name kinda fits. I'm trying my hardest not to fit in.


Henki - How did you get involved in the watch business?

James Thompson - I was messing around with custom watch straps with Carl Evans of GasGasBones in the UK. This got me in friendly with Bell & Ross and Graham watches. Those were my first awkward steps in the industry. I’d say Stepan Sarpaneva has been the biggest mentor for me along the way though. He’s not a scary as most think, ha ha!

Courtesy of James Thompson

Henki - And while we're trying to get to know who the Black Badger (the designer) is, what exactly is Black Badger the business?

James Thompson - Meh who knows. Call it a materials orphanage and we can go away friends here!

Henki - In some ways, for some people, it seems like you came out of nowhere. Could you shed a little light on your journey from Canadian art student transplant to global watch sensation?

Courtesy of David Svensson

James Thompson - I think it really was just a case of the right place at the right time. I’m kinda like the Forrest Gump of design. And by keeping to my own aesthetic and not trend-chasing, it’s let me establish a rather strong visual identity in a relatively short timeframe.


Henki - Now as a fellow Northern Youth who found himself in Scandinavia, I have to ask - was this a plan, an happy accident, or something else?

James Thompson - Ha ha I was in the process of flunking out of my design school in Vancouver and was really looking for a totally different direction. We had a Swedish exchange student with us and I just loved the way Scandinavia approaches design. Much more holistic and thought-out, rather than just cool sexy shapes. I dig that way of working.


Henki - What is the best part about the work you do with watch brands?

James Thompson - I truly love pushing established brands out of their comfort zone. It tends to rivitalize the brands themselves, lets the maybe shake some dust off. And hey if it all goes to shit they can just blame it on me. Ha ha!

Henki - I realize that I might be in the minority here - but I thought that the Tag Heuer Coffee collaboration was the Witches Britches!  

Were you surprised by the reception?

Courtesy of Bamford Watch Department

James Thompson - That’s my wife’s favorite piece I’ve ever done actually. Both the visual look and the story behind it. The fact that it’s made from coffee isn’t super earth-shattering but the appearance and the detail of the dial I think is super interesting. Some people just thought we were taking the piss and joking around. Not at all the case. Introducing unconventional materials into modern watchmaking is what pays my rent, so no I don’t play around. Especially when it’s someone else’s brand I’m guest-starring with. But some of the online comments were just idiotic. People like to take shots at George Bamford and I really don’t tolerate that in a public setting. Purists won’t like what we do, and that’s fine. They weren’t invited to the revolution anyways.


Henki - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

James Thompson - In another life I would have been a chef I think. I get super inspired by all these fantastically creative people who travel the world and create amazing recipes from local and exciting ingredients. I mean have you heard Anthony Bourdain go off about a certain cut of meat, or Jose Andres making a Michelin-Starred dessert using Doritos and broccoli or something insanely unexpected. Pure alchemy and I love it.


Henki - What advice do you have for the next Black Badger out there?

James Thompson  - My weather-control device is almost complete...

Kelys & Chirp

Presented by MB&F -

Courtesy of MB&F

One of the things I really like about MB&F is their holistic approach.  Yes, mechanical watches are showcases for elaborate and complex workings, but these walking turtles (with singing birds) are wonderful creations.



As you'd expect with all things MB&F is involved with, this is a collaboration first between a turtle - Kelys, and a song bird - Chirp.  According to the folks art MB&F, the name given to the turtle of the team, Kelys is inspired by the Greek chelone or chelys for tortoise.  Chirp is the more musical of the pair.

Courtesy of MB&F

But there is another partnership at work here, that being music box masters Reuge and Nicolas Court, one of Switzerland's best known automaton experts.

Limited to 18 pieces in each version.

Available in blue, yellow, ochre -

Courtesy of MB&F

 and green -

Courtesy of MB&F

Here are the pertinents, straight from MB&F -


TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Kelys & Chirp is available in 4 limited editions of 18 pieces each in blue, green, yellow or ochre

ANIMATION
The tortoise walks, the bird opens from back, moves and sings.
For 10-12 seconds, the bird flaps its wings, moves its tail, opens its beak in time to the bird song, then as if
magically disappears.
The tortoise moves its legs in a realistically intermittent gait, its head moves.
Average tortoise speed: 0.03 m/s (0.06 mph).
 
MATERIALS
Generally rhodium plated brass, stainless steel and 18K white gold for the bird.
Tortoise scales: handmade leathering with coloured calfskin.
 
MOVEMENT
Number of components: 480
100% hand assembled
 
CHIRP THE SINGING BIRD
Materials: 18K polished white gold, eyes in sapphire
Number of components (bird alone): 30
Number of components (bellows): 90
Mainspring: twin-cam spring barrel
Power reserve: 3 cycles of turtle walking and bird singing
Bellows: double bellows system (bi-directional air pushing)
Security mechanism: if the bird or cover are pushed down while the bird is singing, the bird automatically retreats

KELYS THE AUTOMATON TORTOISE
 
Material: grained, satin and polish finishing, rhodium-plated brass, eyes in black onyx gems

Shell: 12 leather scales with individual polished edges
Mechanism for turtle automaton is driven by the Singing Bird movement
 
Number of components: 100, all rhodium or satin finished
 
Gear train: elliptical gearing with max/min 1.3/0.8 ratio enables the turtle to advance with a realistically non-regular gait.
 
Table/desk edge detector: turtle automatically stops when reaching the edge of the surface.
 
Tail switch: world first tail indication; with the turtle’s tail up it rests in place while the bird sings; with the turtle’s tail down
it walks and the bird sings.
Security friction clutch
 
Circular stainless steel winding key located on tortoise’s belly.

Doing Good - MB&F and Only Watch

Courtesy of MB&F

This year's Only Watch auction promises to be something special.  And although I am not in their demographic in terms of disposable income (educators are in it for the love, not the money), I am a fan for sur!

But beyond technical prowess, this year's effort solidified my belief in the power of fun!

Courtesy of MB&F

Now usually, when the designer gets revealed, it is a crusty old guy (not unlike this writer) in a heroic pose in front of impossibly complicated devices and machinery.  Allow me to introduce you to the artist behind this collaborative piece -

Courtesy of MB&F

ABOUT THE ARTIST

Cassandra Legendre is a 15-year-old student in Madrid, Spain with mixed French and Swiss parentage. Since the age of five, she has been trained in classical ballet and is currently enrolled in Victor Ullate Escuela, founded by the dancer that Maurice Béjart called one of the most complete ballet dancers of the 20^th century.

Although Legendre’s ultimate aim is to become a professional ballet dancer, her art is also a strong part of her life. Her drawings form the main part of her work, and are done completely freehand in black felt pen.

Apart from drawing and ballet, Legendre is also passionate about a wide range of film genres and is particularly interested in the dialogue aspects of screenwriting.

And because I think that MB&F went way above and beyond with this effort, here is the rest of the release in their own words -

HOROLOGICAL MACHINE N°8 “ONLY WATCH”

DRIVING SUPPORT FOR CHILDREN LIVING WITH DUCHENNE MUSCULAR DYSTROPHY

The biennial Only Watch auction, widely recognised as the world’s most high-profile charity watch event, returns in 2017. For the fourth time, MB&F is contributing a unique edition of one of their Machines to Only Watch, to be sold in aid of Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a genetic disorder characterised by progressive muscle degeneration primarily affecting young boys.

The base of this pièce unique is Horological Machine N°8, an automotive-inspired creation that takes design cues from the legendary high-octane Can-Am race. Engraved and metallised on the sapphire crystal pane that surmounts the HM8 engine is a whimsical drawing created by 15-year-old Cassandra Legendre. A student currently living in Madrid, Legendre’s primary method of artistic expression is ballet, but she also produces remarkable drawings in her spare time. As an exception for MB&F’s contribution to Only Watch, Legendre and her family agreed to this one-off participation to strengthen the message of HM8 Only Watch — a child creating something to help children who have been denied many of the dreams and opportunities of childhood.

Both intricate and simple, an approach that perfectly matches MB&F’s sophisticated yet direct approach to watchmaking, the illustration captures childhood objects of joy in a continuously drawn frame. Despite being in her mid-teens, Legendre possesses the rare touch of communicating the perspectives of someone much younger, perspectives that still retain much of the innocence and whimsy that we lose as we grow up. Look closely at the drawing and you can spot a robot, a jet plane, a toy car and a jellyfish, visual touchstones that originate in the life and creations of MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser, and resonate with children everywhere. There are also elements of pure childlike delight, such as the ice-cream cone, football, sunglasses and video game controller.

These are items that evoke histories both personal and universal, which every MB&F creation taps into with its design and message. The motif of unity and connectedness is further brought out in the journey of Cassandra Legendre’s art from initial sketch to its final form on HM8 Only Watch. According to Legendre, the drawing started out as something to keep her occupied during a dull mathematics lesson — a familiar youthful experience for many of us! — and was later discovered through social media by Maximilian Büsser after her parents encouraged her to upload her art to Facebook.

One of the elements in Legendre’s drawing is given particular prominence in the HM8 Only Watch. The elephant, situated under the racing-inspired roll bar closest to the minutes disc, is reproduced in three dimensions between the optical prisms. Positioned on a tiny white-gold plinth, the micro-sculpture hand-crafted by Oliver Kuhn is a striking allusion to the majestic beast that occupies large swathes of children’s literature from Kipling to Disney. For those suffering from Duchenne muscular dystrophy, or indeed any serious health condition, the elephant’s status as an endangered animal under siege and facing an uncertain future holds particular significance and relevance. The elephant is made of white gold and took 120 hours to complete, with its trunk tucked in and ears pulled back in a peaceful pose. Particular care and attention was paid to details such as the tusks, which measure 0.2mm in diameter at their finest point, and the eyes, measuring 0.18mm in diameter.

Where previously there was a double-screwed plate engraved with the MB&F logo, the HM8 Only Watch has a white-gold disc depicting a happy face, or smiley, with the two screws now forming its eyes. It is the ultimate symbol of the childlike perspective that Legendre brings to Horological Machine N°8 Only Watch, which is also found in all those who feel aligned with the creative drive of MB&F.

HM8 ONLY WATCH : TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Distinctive feature:

This pièce unique HM8 in white gold and titanium features a sapphire crystal engraved with a drawing created by 15-year old Cassandra Legendre, along with a miniature white gold elephant sculpture standing between the hours and minutes.

Engine

Three-dimensional engine conceived and developed by MB&F from a Girard-Perregaux base calibre

Automatic battle-axe winding rotor in 22k gold with purple PVD

Power reserve: 42 hours

Balance frequency: 28,800bph / 4Hz

Number of components: 251

Number of jewels: 30

Functions/indications

Bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes displayed by two optical prisms that both reflect and magnify

Case

Material: 18K white gold and grade 5 titanium

Dimensions: 49 mm x 51.5 mm x 19 mm

Number of components: 60 components

Water resistance: 30 m / 90' / 3 atm

Sapphire crystals

All sapphire crystals – front, back, top, bottom – treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces. Top plate metallised and laser engraved with a drawing.

Strap & buckle

Black hand-stitched alligator strap with white gold folding buckle.