Perhaps Just Under the Radar...

The Anillo GMT, from PAPAR -

Courtesy of Papar

So after a bit of a "timepiece" overdose in Geneva, I got a very pleasant surprise on my drive back from Lawrence the other day, courtesy of the Wrist Check Podcast.

This is the Anillo, and if I've understood things correctly, this is the first offering from Papar. And as they are just on the other end of the Commonwealth, I feel a wee bit sheepish that I hadn't heard of them before now. It is a wonderfully clever take on a GMT. Available in both stainless steel and rose gold PVD (my personal favorite) -

Courtesy of Papar

It is very reasonably priced at $750 US.

Courtesy of Papar

Here are the pertinents -

Diameter: 36mm

Thickness: 12.1mm

Lug-to-Lug: 43mm

Case Material: 316L Steel (rose gold PVD)

Water Resistance: 100m

Movement: Miyota 9075

Complication: Sub-dial GMT disc

Sapphire crystal with AR coating

Packaging: Leather watch roll

Initial Run: 100 numbered watches

Something for the Long, Cold Winter

From Islander -

Courtesy of Islander 

If this is not already on your radar, it absolutely should be! This is the Astoria Automatic, from Islander. Marc (the man behind Islander) has already launched a slew of crazy-popular watches, and this one while taking things in a slightly new direction, is going to be another big hit!

I am a sucker for Tonneau cases, and this one is a wonderful execution. True to the original design codes, but an ample size for today's tastes measuring 34 mm x 37 mm.

The movement is automatic / self-winding from Miyota which also can hand-wind and has hacking seconds.

Courtesy of Islandeer

Best of all? The price -  $329.00!

It is offered in a few different colorways, but the blue is far and away my favorite.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement: Miyota 9039 Hi-Beat Automatic (self-winding, hand wind, hacks)
Case: Stainless steel, 34mm x 37mm, 9.2mm thick, 44.2mm lug to lug
Back: Solid etched caseback held with screws
Crystal: Flat sapphire crystal with inner AR
Band: Leather backed fabric, quick release, 18mm
Water Resistant: 50 meters
Weight: 53 grams
Warranty: 1 year

Something Just Under The Radar - The R.Day Astro-M

So apologies in advance, I've been a bit harried these past few weeks with real life pressing in on my current avocation. I am hoping to have a longer, in-depth story (with interview) with the creator of R. Day Watches - Richard Day. I was turned on to this groovy brand by that intrepid seeker of the new, unique, and "off the beaten path" time machines - Roman Serebrianik of the Fifth Wrist Radio podcast.

So for now I want to put this wonderful aluminum (YES! Aluminum!) watch in front of you to give you some understanding of the very special work that he is undertaking in the leafy glens of Wimbledon -

Courtesy of R. Day Watches

This is the R.Day Astro-M. As mentioned, the case is of aluminum. It is crafted by Mr. Day in his workshop. Subtract the crown, and it measures 39 mm in diameter, and 50 mm going the long way (lug to lug). The movement is from Miyota.

The price is very reasonable for a hand crafted case and dial - £960 GBP + shipping. The initial offering was 10 pieces and I suspect that they have all already been spoken for. With that said, if it's in your wheelhouse, reach out to see if another run is imminent ; )

Here are the particulars -

Technical information:

• Case material: Aluminium

• Case back material: Stainless Steel

• Miyota 8245 Automatic movement with small seconds complication

• 39mm diameter (excluding crown)

• 50mm lug to lug

• 13mm tall

• 63 grams (excluding strap)

• Leather strap

The 1945 D12 Raven Black Field Watch

From Vario -

Courtesy of Vario

This one is an affordable riff on the "Dirty Dozen" style watches circa WWII.

Vario has gained a strong reputation for creating desirable watches and selling them at reasonable prices, and the 1945 D12 Raven is no exception.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 37 mm in diameter. The movement is self-winding from Miyota.

Priced at $368.

Here are the pertinents -

Specifications
Case diameter: 37mm
Case thickness: 10.5mm
Crystal: Sapphire with inner AR applied
Lug width: 18mm
Lug to lug: 45mm
Lume: C3/BGW9 Lume
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Caseback: 316L stainless steel with option for empty caseback and laser engraving at additional cost
Crown: Screw-down crown
Movement: Miyota 82s5 automatic gilt movement (Côtes de Genève) with hand-winding and hacking seconds. 21 jewels 21.6kpbh more than 40 hours power reserve
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Strap: Cordura
Warranty: 2 year global warranty

• 2 Year International Warranty

The Marinor Ghost North Blue

From Héron -

Courtesy of Héron

This is one of the newest offerings from Héron of Canada. The Marinor Ghost's case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter, and a length of 47 mm. It is described as being scratch resistant.

Courtesy of Héron

The movement is Miyota's 9039. 

Courtesy of Héron

The lume is very impressive. 

And the price makes this a very affordable option, if it's in your wheelhouse - $590. 

Here are the pertinents -

Limited Edition: 50 Pieces

Colorway: North Blue REF. 3202-B

Specifications

• Hardened Stainless Steel - 1200HV
  
• Automatic Miyota 9039 (No Battery Required)
• Boxed Sapphire Crystal (AR Coated)
• Sterile Rotating Bezel - 120 Clicks, Uni-Directional
• Swiss Lume: Blue Super-Luminova (BGW9)
• Brushed Case and Bracelet
• Screw Down Crown & Caseback
• Water Resistance: 300 Meter | 1000 Feet
• Diver Bracelet | Screwed Links, Quick Release & Micro-Adjustment System 
• Prescison Screwdriver included

Just Under the Radar - the Seiya Automatic A167-C

For those in the know, who want the real-deal, down-home, can't get it unless you hop on a flight to Narita watch, the go-to source is Seiya Japan. Now obviously, you can get the "Japan Only" Seikos, Citizens and even The Citizen. But with that said, there is one particularly cool thing you can get that Seiya-San came up with on his own -

Courtesy of Seiya Japan

This will not be found on the site, unless you know the "secret handshake" - that is you go to the accessories page. There you will find two military style watches, one with a date, and this one. And this one is my personal fave.

Courtesy of Seiya Japan

The A167-C is of stainless steel, and measures a tasty 36 mm in diameter. The movement is automatic / self-winding from Miyota.

And best of all is the price - $358.00 USD

The Nero Aurelia

From Gorilla Watch Company -

Courtesy of Gorilla Watch Company

This is the latest addition to Gorilla's Fastback stable, the Nero Aurelia. This is one of two new models recently announced.

Courtesy of Gorilla Watch Company

This is a limited edition of 500 pieces, and shipping is projected for December.

Here are the pertinents -

CALIBRE
Miyota 9039, premium finish, self-winding, 4 Hz, stop seconds, personalized oscillation weight

FUNCTIONS
Hour, minute, sweeping seconds

CASE MATERIAL
DLC coated 316L stainless steel, screw-down crown, applied crown guards

CASEBACK
Open case back, engraved, sapphire crystal

DIAL
Matte finish, applied indexes filled with Super-Luminova™, radial brushed flange, hands and hour markers filled with Super-Luminova™

CRYSTAL
Scratch resistant sapphire,
anti-reflective coating on both sides

STRAP
Perforated Alcantara™ & FKM rubber hybrid

BUCKLE
Stainless steel pin buckle

CASE DIMENSIONS
39 mm case diameter
43.1 mm with crown guards
10.5 mm case thickness
50 mm lug-to-lug

WATER RESISTANCE
100M/330FT/10ATM

It's A Mad, Mad, Mad World! Part 2

Perhaps one of the most talked about watches last year was one that almost nobody could get their hands on - the M.A.D.1. It was a special project that made an MB&F creation more affordable and accessible to two sets of folks near and dear to the success of MB&F - previous customers (or the Tribe), and people who have collaborated with MB&F in the past on various projects (suppliers, etc.).  While the materials were listed otherwise, many came to think of it as a time machine cunningly crafted of "unobtainium".

But  Maximilian Büsser clearly wants to connect with as many people as he and his company reasonably can. So he and his team spent the last year working on this little bijoux, the M.A.D.1 Red -

Long story short, for those of us on the outside (which in fairness, most of us are), we now have an opportunity to throw our hats in the ring with a chance to win one of the coveted slots to purchase our very own M.A.D.1 Red.  This will be done through a lottery system. Should you get one of the golden tickets, you will be contacted and given instructions on how to place your order.

Courtesy of MB&F and M.A.D.

As the images will show, many of the elements are the same, with some changes that Mr. Büsser  outlines in the YouTube video.

Courtesy of MB&F and M.A.D.

The price you pay, should you be one of the lucky winners will be - CHF 2900 excluding tax.

Courtesy of MB&F and M.A.D.

Should you be tempted to register for the lottery, here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

ENGINE

Inverted Miyota 821A automatic movement with winding rotor on top and lateral time display system.
Revolving hour and minute rings in aluminium alloy, engraved numbers with Super-LumiNova.
Winding rotor in titanium and tungsten, Super-LumiNova highlights.
Power reserve: 60 hours.
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21'600 a/h.

CASE

Frame material: stainless steel.
Sapphire crystal on top, main section in mineral glass.
Diameter 42 mm, height 18.8 mm.
Water resistance: 30 m / 90 ft / 3 ATM

STRAP & BUCKLE

Black calfskin leather with red stitching.
Folding buckle in stainless steel.

The Blue Demon

From Gorilla Watches -

Courtesy of Gorilla Watches

This is the second of two new releases.

Courtesy of Gorilla Watches

The Blue Demon is part of the GT Fastback collection and continues the evolution of this series.

Here are the pertinents -

CALIBER
Miyota 90S5, self-winding, 4 Hz, stop seconds, exposed balance wheel, personalized oscillation weight

FUNCTIONS
Hour, minute, sweeping seconds

CASE MATERIAL
Layered forged carbon case, ceramic bezel, anodized aluminum pinstripe, screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance

CASEBACK
open titanium caseback, engraved, sapphire crystal

DIAL
Anodized aluminum, applied numerals filled with Super-Luminova™, anodized aluminum flange, hands and hour markers filled with Super-Luminova™

CRYSTAL
Scratch resistant sapphire, anti-reflective coating on both sides

STRAP
Bi-color Viton™

BUCKLE
Titanium pin buckle

CASE DIMENSIONS
44 mm case diameter
48.5 mm with crown guards
13 mm case thickness
57 mm lug-to-lug

WATER RESISTANCE
100M/330FT/10ATM

The Legacy: When FOMO Is A Reasonable Response

From Gorilla Watches -

Courtesy of Gorilla

FOMO.  It's a term we hear bandied around quite a it. It speaks to the anxiety or fear of missing out on something when you have the opportunity to get it, but you worry that your decision making paradigm might not be efficient or quick enough for you to take possession of that which you truly desire. And for some watch collectors this can be worse than a failed relationship. As the old saying goes, there are plenty of other fish in the sea (yes, in today's climate change reality even that old chestnut is debatable), but missing out on the Original Gorilla Fastback has haunted me far worse than the unrequited love I had for a certain girl growing up in Northern Ohio in the early 80s.

With all that being said, allow me to acquaint you with the Gorilla Legacy. And I say this without fear of contradiction - this watch IS THE SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS! (that's good).

Courtesy of Gorilla Watches

It's Déjà vu all over again!

The Legacy looks completely different, yet hauntingly the same.  Go figure! 

The case's vital statistics are as follows:

44 mm case diameter
48.5 mm with crown guards
13 mm case thickness
57 mm lug-to-lug

But it's not just about the dimensions, but rather the dimensions explored with the materials used to make said case:

Layered forged carbon case and bezel, anodized aluminum pinstripe, screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance

Courtesy of Gorilla Watches

The case back is of titanium.

The movement is, as you've come to know and expect, a Miyota.  In this instance it is the 8215 (self-winding/automatic).

The price is reasonable - refreshingly so at $980 which if my reading is correct will include shipping.  

Here are all the pertinents, straight from Gorilla HQ:

CALIBER

Miyota 8215, self-winding, 3Hz/21.600 vph

FUNCTIONS

Hour, minute, sweeping seconds

CASE MATERIAL

Layered forged carbon case and bezel, anodized aluminum pinstripe, screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance

CASEBACK

Titanium caseback, engraved

DIAL

Forged carbon, anodized aluminum, numerals printed with Super-Luminova™, hands and hour markers filled with Super-Luminova™

CRYSTAL

Scratch resistant sapphire, anti-reflective coating on both sides

STRAP

Bi-color Viton™

BUCKLE

Titanium pin buckle

CASE DIMENSIONS

44 mm case diameter
48.5 mm with crown guards
13 mm case thickness
57 mm lug-to-lug

WATER RESISTANCE

100M/330FT/10ATM

Don't Fake The Funk - Sō Labs

Every so often I clap eyes on something that renews my faith in watch town. And while I realize that more intrepid, curious and perhaps better informed outlets might have already shared news about Sō Labs, in the interest of trying to catch up, here you go -

While I can not claim to know a whole lot about Sō Labs, I can say I'm digging their ethos!  In their own words:

SŌ LABS IS A TEAM OF CHICAGO BASED WATCH DUDES STRIVING TO PUT THE FUN(K) BACK INTO TELLING TIME. 

We believe differentiation meant starting from the ground up. Our core design aesthetic of transparency drove the need for a fully custom watch to bring our concepts to life. Our name is meant to encompasses this vision:

SŌ ~ translates to 'Layer, or Idea/Thought/Conception'層/想 in Japanese. Having lived there for a short period, I was greatly influenced by their playfulness in design and minimalist aesthetics. Transparency through layering is central to the look of our timepieces.

LABS ~ innovation requires hypothesizing, tinkering and experimentation; all processes which we've put in place to launch our LAYER ONE Series and look forward to pursuing more through the future launch of our automatic pieces.

 

Our dials are intentionally logo-free so that our Pantone color combinations, transparent cases, gradient wheels, and printed disc handsets can remain the hero of the brand's identity.

Finally, each model we release will remain in limited quantities because Exclusivity is Never One-Dimensional, sō add another layer!

Courtesy of Sō Labs

Having lived in Japan for 3 years, I can absolutely agree, and needless to say I could easily see some sharp dressed youths in Kasukabe, fresh from a shopping excursion to Harajuku sporting one of these drip time machines.

To just pick one is challenging, but the Emerald Rhino speaks to me -

Courtesy of Sō Labs

Priced at a wonderfully accessible level -

$175.00

Here are the pertinents -

A chunk of emerald green, a punch of rhino grey, a dazzle of tiger orange and dot of prussian blue.

Emerald Rhino has a FULLY LUMED dial!

Comes with a 20mm dark gray suede Sō Labs strap, all packaged within our custom 'petri dish' packaging.

This inaugural collection from Sō Labs was designed from the ground up in the heart of Chicago. From the clear case to the die-cut dial and the handset discs, every element of the Layer One Series has been thoughtfully considered.

Limited to 500 pieces - each watch is uniquely numbered

38mm | Miyota Quartz | 3ATM | Acrylic Case | Fully Lumed Dial

The LEON Racing Edition

From Gorilla -

Courtesy of Gorilla Watches

This is the latest addition to the Gorilla stable, a watch that celebrates their new partnership with SUPER GT racing team, LEON PYRAMID AMG -

Any race team with a poster of Speed Racer in the pits has gotta' be pretty bitchin'!

Courtesy of Leon Racing

Kitted out in the livery of LEON PYRAMID AMG, the LEON Racing Edition is a wonderful evolution for Gorilla Watches. 

Courtesy of Leon Racing

While true to many aspects of previous Gorillas, this one clearly has moved the Gorilla design codes forward. It is limited to only 300 pieces, so if you want one, you'd better step on it!

The price on the windscreen?

$1'790 USD
excl. tax, incl. shipping

Here are the pertinents -

CALIBER

Miyota 90S5, self-winding, 4 Hz, stop seconds, exposed balance wheel, personalized oscillation weight

FUNCTIONS

Hour, minute, sweeping seconds

CASE MATERIAL

Layered forged carbon case & bezel, anodized aluminium pinstripe, screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance

CASEBACK

open titanium caseback, engraved, sapphire crystal

DIAL

Forged Carbon and anodized aluminum, applied numerals filled with Super-Luminova™, anodized aluminium flange, hands and hour markers filled with black and red Super-Luminova™

CRYSTAL

Scratch resistant sapphire,
anti-reflective coating on both sides

STRAP

Bi-color Viton™

BUCKLE

Bi-color Viton™, titanium pin buckle

CASE DIMENSIONS

44 mm case diameter
48.5 mm with crown guards
13 mm case thickness
57 mm lug-to-lug

WATER RESISTANCE

100M/330FT/10ATM

LIMITED EDITION

300 pieces

Two New Fliegers Take Flight

From Laco 
The first on the runway is the Neapel 39.  A classic with a spicy twist.  A friendly price of $410 -

Courtesy of Laco

Case:
Stainless steel, brushed finish,
ø 39 mm, height 11 mm, lug width 18 mm, water resistant up to 5 ATM,
sapphire crystal, domed crown

Movement:
Automatic movement Laco 21, base: Miyota 821A, 21 Jewels, 3 hands, second hand stop function

Hands:
Hour, minute and second black mat
with luminous material Superluminova orange

Strap:
Black calf leather strap with orange stitching, 2 rivets per band side, stainless steel buckle

Dial:
Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova, execution according B-Uhr Baumuster A

Weight:
80 g

It's wingman is the Palermo -

Courtesy of Laco

Also available for $410, here are the pertinents -

Case:
Stainless steel, brushed finish,
ø 39 mm, height 11 mm, lug width 18 mm, water resistant up to 5 ATM,
sapphire crystal, domed crown

Movement:
Automatic movement Laco 21, base: Miyota 821A, 21 Jewels, 3 hands, second hand stop function

Hands:
Hour, minute and second black mat
with luminous material Superluminova orange

Strap:
Black calf leather strap with orange stitching, 2 rivets per band side, stainless steel buckle

Dial:
Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova, execution according B-Uhr Baumuster A

Weight:
80 g