Seven Days with the Archimede 1950 - 4

Starts now -

Stay tuned!

And To Think...I Almost Missed This!

 

Courtesy of Archimede

Yes, I have absolutely been writing a lot about Archimede these past few weeks. It's like that some times, you find yourself falling down a rabbit hole before you realize it.

Why I have become somewhat obsessed with Archimede? Well, after running a few brands, and operating in supporting roles, it is nice to see a brand that does not spend so much time worrying about who / what they are perceived to be. Rather, Archimede seems to spend its time on making solid watches, at a fair price, that people will actually want to buy and wear. 

Courtesy of Archimede

The reason why you've never seen an Archimede brand ambassador? Simple, they are putting the money into their watches!

This is the 1950-4 . GR.SC.LHB, and yes, I'm kinda' crushing on it!

It it is a beautiful green dialed time machine. Hours and minutes, with seconds displayed via a sub dial at 6 o'clock. Everything you need, nothing you don't.

It can be had direct from Archimede for 

€1,020.00
Price incl. 19% VAT plus shipping costs
Price excl. VAT €857.14

Free of shipping costs within Germany

Delivery time approx. 1-2 weeks

Product information "1950-4 . GR.SC.LHB"

Movement	Swiss-made hand-wound movement SW 261-1M Swiss automatic movement SW 261
ICKLER Case	The high-quality case manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim. Brushed and polished, domed sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 3 ATM, onion crown, screw-down case back with mineral crystal. Dimensions: Diameter 40mm, thickness 9,8 mm, lug-to-lug length 44 mm
Dial	Domed, green with luminous numbers and indexes, small second at 6
Hands	Vintage, luminous hands, domed
Band	Light brown leather strap, Vintage look, width 20mm, (wrist size: 17 - 21,5cm) (optional: deployment clasp)

The 1950-4

From Archimede -

Courtesy of Archimede

This is a new-school take on an old-school classic. Available in two color ways, my personal favorite is the green (above). It is also available in a more restrained black (below) -

Courtesy of Archimede

The hand-winding movement is Sellita's SW 261-1M.

Courtesy of Archimede

Here are the pertinents -

Movement
Swiss-made hand-wound movement 

SW 261-1M

ICKLER Case
The high-quality case manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim.
Brushed and polished, domed sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 3 ATM, onion crown, screw-down case back with mineral crystal. Dimensions: Diameter 40mm, thickness 9,8 mm, lug-to-lug length 44 mm

Dial

Domed, black or green with luminous numbers and indexes, small second at 6Hands

Hands
Vintage, luminous hands, domedBand

Strap
Dark brown leather strap, Vintage look, width 20mm, (wrist size: 17 - 21,5cm) (optional: deployment clasp)

Available direct from Archimede:

€960.00 Price incl. 19% VAT plus shipping costs
€806.72 Price excl. VAT 

Two New Fliegers Take Flight

From Laco 
The first on the runway is the Neapel 39.  A classic with a spicy twist.  A friendly price of $410 -

Courtesy of Laco

Case:
Stainless steel, brushed finish,
ø 39 mm, height 11 mm, lug width 18 mm, water resistant up to 5 ATM,
sapphire crystal, domed crown

Movement:
Automatic movement Laco 21, base: Miyota 821A, 21 Jewels, 3 hands, second hand stop function

Hands:
Hour, minute and second black mat
with luminous material Superluminova orange

Strap:
Black calf leather strap with orange stitching, 2 rivets per band side, stainless steel buckle

Dial:
Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova, execution according B-Uhr Baumuster A

Weight:
80 g

It's wingman is the Palermo -

Courtesy of Laco

Also available for $410, here are the pertinents -

Case:
Stainless steel, brushed finish,
ø 39 mm, height 11 mm, lug width 18 mm, water resistant up to 5 ATM,
sapphire crystal, domed crown

Movement:
Automatic movement Laco 21, base: Miyota 821A, 21 Jewels, 3 hands, second hand stop function

Hands:
Hour, minute and second black mat
with luminous material Superluminova orange

Strap:
Black calf leather strap with orange stitching, 2 rivets per band side, stainless steel buckle

Dial:
Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova, execution according B-Uhr Baumuster A

Weight:
80 g

The Transit Futur Perfekt

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

This is the latest offering from the German brand, and represents a bit of a departure.

Courtesy of Defakto

The 3 part case measures 40 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel, which is sand blasted and PVD coated. The movement is ETA's 2824-2. But for me the dial and hands are the show stoppers. Each dial is something of a one-off. In their own words:

The special edition of the Defakto Transit Futur Perfekt is limited to 20 pieces. The lacquered, irregular brushed brass dial offers an unusual, three-dimensional effect that vividly reflects the incoming light. Each dial is individual due to the fine scratch pattern applied by hand on the front. Its especial plasticity is created by the covering clear protective varnish. As a last step black indexes were printed on. The concealed back of the dial is highly polished.

Courtesy of Defakto

And best of all?  

A 10% donation of each watch sold will be donated to Doctor's Without Borders.

Here are the pertinents -

• Three-hand watch, limited to 20 pieces
• Can be mounted as right- or lefthand-watch 
• Three-piece 40 mm stainless steel watchcase (316L), sandblasted, Pvd-coated
• Height including sphered saphire crystal dome 9.8mm 
• 40 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm, 58 g 
• Automatic movement ETA 2824-2, made in Switzerland 
• Engraved see-through case back, stainless steel (316L), sandblasted, pvd, Saphire crystal 
• brushed brass dial, raw, clear lacquered, convex
• Matt black rounded hands, manually shaped 
• Hour/Minute hand fluorescent Superluminova Bgw9 
• Second hand fluorescent Superluminova light red 
• Flowing, sweeping second hand 
• Ergonomic clasp with engraved Defakto logo 
• German-made cowhide strap 
• Water resistant to 5 ATM
• Made in Pforzheim, Germany

The Heritage Hand-Wound Redgold

 From Circula -

Courtesy of Circula

This is a nice idea that several brands (particularly German) dabbled with but never really managed to make happen. Utilizing a P.U.W. Caliber 561 hand wound movement, and wrapping it in a modern sized case (39 mm). I have to be honest, I'm sorta' digging it.

The price is also enticing - 714,29 € which if the site info is up to date, includes shipping.

The case is a three piece construction, secured by 4 screws at the back. It is of 316 L stainless steel which is Red Gold (PVD).

Courtesy of Circula

The movement is admittedly the star of the show -
P.U.W. 561 (new parts) from Pforzheim, German hand-wound movement. The only concerning point for me is the advertised "rate" of -15/+20 Sec/Day.  I have to be honest, that is not great, especially considering that the movements are NOS and have been "restored".  But, as the owner of an Angular Momentum equipped with a NOS FHF mvt., I can say that for better or worse, NOS movements are always going to have that Frank Lloyd Wright appeal - looks really cool, and Frank Lloyd Wright irritation - doesn't work 100% correctly. As the man who commissioned the Johnson Wax Building would attest, he took to keeping an extra garbage can in his office to put on his desk in case of rain, because as beautiful as the building was, it leaked. I have had my Angular Momentum worked on by the best in the business in both the US and Switzerland. And like a vintage car, you will only be able to coax so much out of it.

To be fair, I am only acquainted with Circula "virtually", but would point you to this review -

http://www.thetimebum.com/2020/03/circula-heritage-hand-wound.html?m=1

The Time Bum tends to be fair and honest, and he had a very favorable take on the Heritage Hand-Wound model. 

Needless to say, I am somewhat beguiled, and I am glad that Circula is out there, making some interesting pieces.

The Transit NightBlue

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

Available with a PVD case (above), and a stainless steel version (below) -

Courtesy of Defakto

The case measures 40 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel.  The movement is ETA's 2824-2.  The price is nice and sane at: 
945,00 EUR (incl. VAT)
794,12 EUR (excl. VAT)

Here are the pertinents -

Three-piece 40 mm stainless steel watchcase (316L):

brushed
or
sandblasted, Pvd-coated

Height including sphered saphire crystal dome 9.8mm

40 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm, 58 g

Automatic movement ETA 2824-2, made in Switzerland

Engraved see-through case back, stainless steel (316L), brushed, Saphire crystal

Matt nightblue dial, convex, fluorescent

Matt black rounded hands, manually shaped

Hour/Minute hand fluorescent Superluminova BGW9

Second hand fluorescent Superluminova light red

Flowing, sweeping second hand

Ergonomic clasp with engraved Defakto logo

German-made cowhide strap

Water resistant to 5 atm

Made in Pforzheim, Germany

Something Blue

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

This is one of two new releases from Defakto, the DEFAKTO EINS INKOGNITO NIGHTBLUE Here are the pertinents, straight from Defakto -

• One-hand watch for lefthand and righthand use
• Three-piece 42 mm titanium watchcase, brushed
• Top ring sandblasted, covered with highly durable anthrazit PVD
• 42 mm x 51 mm x 9,8 mm, weight 44 g
• Automatic movement ETA 2824-2, made in Switzerland
• Engraved see-through case back, (316L), brushed
• Matte night-blue dial, fluorescent Indexes, no logo
• Matte skeletonized hand, fluorescent
• Ergonomic clasp with engraved Defakto Logo
• Sapphire crystal, antireflective
• German-made Defakto cowhide Strap
• Water resistant to 5 ATM
• Made in Pforzheim, Germany

Available direct from Defakto -

890,00 EUR (including MWST)

747,90 EUR (excluding MWST)

The Meta Standard

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

Well, it would seem that a lot of things were starting in 2010.  Tempus Fugit launched in the first week of July that year, Hager Watches kicked off, and Defakto started offering their unique and wonderful time machines.  And their latest is now available, the Meta Standard.

Courtesy of Defakto

In their own words -

Defakto´s first watch was a one-hander - the successful Defakto Eins. With the new Defakto Meta I am coming back to this concept to celebrate Defakto´s 10 year anniversary. The new, in-house made single-hand watch Defakto Meta is a super minimal, night glowing approx-watch that helps to find your pace and de-accelerate the day. The Defakto Meta follows the design idea of the Defakto Transit which has just won the German Design Award 2020. As customers of the original Eins already highly appreciated, the intuitive, approximate time perception lives on and is the core idea of the new Meta series. Due to its wide, rounded single-hand, the watch´s concept focuses on a even more intuitive time resolution than the original Eins. As the indexes represent only the hour and quarter-hour periods, on the minimalistic single-hand watch Defakto Meta, time is read rather in approximate intervals than specific seconds. The large single hand is used to read both the hour and approximate minute at the same time. The lack of precise time display will fine-tune your intuition and will give you a more positive, intuitive approach to time. 

Courtesy of Defakto

Here are the pertinents -

• Single-hand watch 
• Can be mounted as right- or lefthand-watch 
• Three-piece 40 mm stainless steel watchcase (316L), sandblasted, Pvd
• Height including sphered saphire crystal dome 9.8mm 
• 40 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm
• Automatic movement ETA 2824-2, made in Switzerland
• Engraved see-through case back, stainless steel (316L), sandblasted, Pvd, Saphire crystal
• Limited Edition engraving: 10 Jahre Defakto Uhren Manufaktur
• Matt black dial, convex, fluorescent
• Matt black rounded hands, manually shape,  
• Single-hand fluorescent Superluminova BGW9
• Ergonomic clasp with engraved Defakto logo 
• German-made cowhide strap 
• Water resistant to 5 atm 
• Made in Pforzheim, Germany 

  

985,00 EUR (incl. VAT) 

827,73 EUR (excl. VAT) 

The Transit Standard

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

Here are the pertinents, straight from Defakto -

Ref-Nr.: TRA-STA-SW-SL

• Three-hand watch
• Can be mounted as right- or lefthand-watch
• Three-piece 40 mm stainless steel watchcase (316L), brushed
• Height including sphered sapphire crystal dome 9.8mm
• 30 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm
• Automatic movement ETA 2824-2, made in Switzerland
• Engraved see-through case back, stainless steel (316L), brushed, Saphire crystal
• Matt black dial, convex, fluorescent
• Matt black rounded hands, manually shaped
• Hour/Minute hand fluorescent Superluminova BGW9
• Second hand fluorescent Superluminova light red
• Flowing, sweeping second hand
• Ergonomic clasp with engraved Defakto logo
• German-made cowhide strap
• Water resistant to 3 atm
• Made in Pforzheim, Germany

1.080,00 EUR (incl. VAT)

907,56 EUR (excl. VAT)

The Vektor Inkognito

From Defakto -

In case you missed it, you should go check it out!

Ref-Nr.: 4.V-0101-R-INK

• Three-hand watch
• Can be mounted as right- or lefthand-watch
• Two-piece 39 mm stainless steel watchcase (316L), 6.8 mm high, brushed and polished
• Height including sphered plexiglas dome 9.8mm
• 39 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm, weight 52g
• Automatic movement Miyota 9015, made in Japan
• Engraved see-through case back, stainless steel (316L), brushed and polished
• Matt black dial, convex, no logo
• Light, matt red/black rounded hands, manually shaped
• Flowing, sweeping second hand
• Ergonomic clasp with engraved Defakto logo
• German-made cowhide strap
• Water resistant to 3 atm
• Made in Pforzheim, Germany

700,00 EUR (incl. VAT)
588,24 EUR (excl. VAT)

The VEKTOR SILBERMATT

From Defakto -

Courtesy of DEFAKTO

This is the latest offering from DEFAKTO.  It is special.

39 mm across, 2 piece stainless steel case, beautiful dial with a subtle pairing of silver grey hands.  It is, in so many ways, simply perfect in its perfect simplicity.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

• Three-hand watch
• Two-piece 39 mm st. steel watchcase (316L), 6.8 mm high, sandblasted
• Height including "sphered" plexiglass dome 9.8mm
• 39 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm, weight 52g
• Automatic movement Miyota 9015, made in Japan
• Engraved see-through case back, stainless steel (316L), sandblasted
• White black dial, convex
• Light, matte silver-grey rounded hands, manually shaped
• Flowing, sweeping second hand
• Ergonomic clasp with engraved Defakto logo
• German-made, "desert fox" Velour strap
• Water resistant to 3 atm
• Made in Pforzheim, Germany

A very compelling price as well at 571,43 € excluding VAT.

A Bronze Beauty

From Archimede -

Courtesy of Archimede

Every so often you see something that just hits you in the right spot.  This is one of those times.  Point of full disclosure, I am not firmly on either side of the great bronze debate as it applies to watch cases.  Some, admittedly, are more desirable than others.  But more than just a great case, the watch itself needs to have balance and appeal.  


And Archimede's Deck Watch ticks all of the boxes for me.  I tend to prefer hand wound movements, and that is what is under the hood -

Courtesy of Archimede

 ETA's 6498!

 Another great touch?  The blued hands -

Courtesy of Archimede

 
So I might just need to plan a trip to Pforzheim ; )


Enjoy your watches!

The Phara

From Limes -

Courtesy of Limes

Available in a mother of pearl dial (above) which features 8 diamonds.

And also a silvered dial with a guilloche effect in the central portion (below) -

Courtesy of Limes

The case is stainless steel and measures 31.5 mm in diameter.  It is available on a leather strap (pink, blue, black or brown) or s stainless steel bracelet.

This is a self-winding watch, utilizing the SW 200.

Prices start at -  €880.00 incl. VAT  (w/o VAT €739.50)

 

The Vektor Radial

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

This is the latest offering from the little German brand with the big heart, the Vektor Radial.

The 2 piece 39 mm case is made of sand-blasted stainless steel.   The movement is the self-winding Miyota 9015.  

Sensibly priced at:

680,00 EUR (incl. VAT)
571,43 EUR (excl. VAT)

Available directly from Defakto.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

• Three-hand watch
• Two-piece 39 mm stainless steel watch case (316L), 6.8 mm high, fine sandblasted
• Height including sphered Plexiglas dome 9.8mm
• 39 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm, weight 52g
• Automatic movement Miyota 9015, made in Japan
• Engraved see-through case back, stainless steel (316L), fine sandblasted
• Matt black dial, convex
• Light, matte red/black rounded hands, manually shaped
• Flowing, sweeping second hand
• Ergonomic clasp with engraved Defakto logo
• German-made cowhide strap
• Water resistant to 3 ATM
• Made in Pforzheim, Germany

Something Special from Defakto

Ladies and gentlemen allow me to introduce the Stille Nacht
from Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

I get A LOT of press releases, and this one really caught my eye.  Defakto is offering a very, very limited release of both a single-handed, and more standard version of the Stille Nacht -

Courtesy of Defakto

The idea is beguiling.  A dial with the night sky written across it.

The case is 40 mm of sand blasted, PVD treated stainless steel.  And this case is the perfect frame for the wonderful dial that graces the watch.  And in many ways the dial is the star.  

Courtesy of Defakto

The dial and its layout is the result of a collaboration with Defakto and Friederike Bellmann.  The dial's base is dark blue with a matte finish.  It offers an appropriate canvas for the constellations that are hand-applied and airbrushed.  Each dial will be slightly different, adding to the special feeling of the watch, and each one bears its own serial number 1/50 - 50/50.

The movement is quartz, Ronda's 712.  

And the packaging is minimalist, but in very good taste and in keeping with the spirit and price point of the watch itself -

Courtesy of Defakto

And the pricing is very, very right -

325,00 EUR (incl. VAT)
273,11 EUR (excl. VAT) 



Check it out here -

Defakto Stille Nacht

 

The Pharo Big Date with Power Reserve

From Limes -

Courtesy of Limes

Here are the pertinents -
Technical details

Movement	Decorated Swiss hand wound movement ETA 2892-2 TOP with big date and power reserve, blued stainless steel screws, Geneva stripes and Perlage, LIMES logo
Watch case	ICKLER made stainless steel case, polished and brushed, distinct vertical lines on circumference, diameter 40,5mm, thickness 11mm, domed sapphire crystal A/R coated, mineral crystal display back, crown with Ickler logo, waterresistant 5 ATM
Dial	Silvered dial with Clou-de-Paris and Sunray Guilloché patterns, fine Roman numerals
Hands	Blue Breguet hands
Band	Black leather, width 20mm, wrist size: 18 - 22cm

The Vektor

From DEFAKTO -

Courtesy of DEFAKTO

DEFAKTO has done something I've been waiting for for awhile - a watch that makes me say -

THAT'S THE SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS!

The Vektor is one of those watches that hits you on so many levels that you really just want to run and grab a credit card and place your order!

Available in black (above), and a really classic white (below) -

Courtesy of Defakto

The case measures 39 mm - a very sensible size choice.  The case is stainless steel and made by Ickler.  

Courtesy of Defakto

The movement is Miyota's 9015 self-winding with sweeping seconds. 

Courtesy of Defakto

It is priced quite well at 537,82 € Excluding VAT!

Courtesy of Defakto

Here are the pertinents -

Specifications:

• Flat 39mm stainless steel, automatic watch 
• In-house manufactured two -piece watch case
• Mix of brushed and polished surfaces
• Convex dial and manually bent hands
• Spherical Plexiglas dome, highly anti reflective
• German made Defakto cowhide or lack strap
• Automatic movement Miyota 9015, sweeping seconds, Japanese made.

Courtesy of Defakto

Celebrating 250 Years of Watchmaking in Pforzheim

Archimede is releasing a new, very limited watch to celebrate this milestone -

Courtesy of Archimede

This is the Pilot 250.

Courtesy of Archimede

Limited to 50 pieces, the Pilot 250 is special in many ways - including the movement!  A Junghans 687 (hand-winding) movement that has been brought back to modern day life.  

The case is stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter. 

Courtesy of Archimede

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Movement:
Historic handwound movement Junghans 687, Made in Germany 

Case:
The high-quality case is manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim.
Stainless steel case brushed, sapphire crystal with antireflective coating, screw down case back with mineral crystal, waterresistant to 5 ATM, special pilot's crown, diameter 42 mm, thickness 9,6 mm, lug-to-lug length 51 mm

Dial:
Black, with luminous numerals and indexes
Luminous heat blued steel hands, manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim
(Superluminova C3)

Band:
Dark brown leather strap with rivets (wrist size: 18.5 - 22cm) (optional: deployment clasp)

Delivery is estimated to be between 1 - 2 weeks.

The Limes Neptun

Has received an update -

Courtesy of Limes

The folks at Limes have taken something that was already quite good, and made it even better.  Some of the elements of the case (formerly all brushed) are now polished to offer some stronger contrast.  This extended to the hands which are now polished in an effort to provide greater legibility.

Courtesy of Limes

Here are the pertinents -

Technical details

Movement
Swiss automatic movement Sellita SW 200-1

Watch case

ICKLER diver's case, water resistant to 100 ATM, stainless steel brushed and polished,
diameter 41,5mm, with crown 46mm, length 6-12: 50mm, thickness 12,5mm,
sapphire crystal with A/R coating, unidirectional rotating steel bezel with indexes and luminous point, solid screw down case back, screw down crown, screw bars

Dial

Black with large luminous indices

Hands

Luminous hands

Band

Stainless steel bracelet with safety clasp and fold-out extension.
Width 20mm, wrist size: 16-22 cm