The New Vektor Portal

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

Here are the details, straight from Defakto -

The new and limited 38,5mm Defakto Vektor Portal (10 pieces) comes with black in-house made pvd case and Japan made, automatic movement Miyota 9015. The watch offers a very flat st.steel case with only 6.6mm - incl. the acrylic dome it has a total of only 9,8mm! DEFAKTO VEKTOR PORTAL 38,5 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm, weight 35,6g In-house made ICKLER case, Pforzheim, Made in Germany Automatic Movement Miyota 9015, Japan Made Domed dial and acrylic crystal, curved hands German made cowhide strap with fast release system. 3 ATM water resistant 785,00 € incl. VAT EU-Citizens 659,66 €  excl. VAT Non-EU-Citizens Limited to 10 pieces

The Renaissance

From Bangalore Watch Company -

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

Watches are global.  This is something that gets lost in all of the marketing noise driven down our collective throats from Switzerland and Germany.  There was a time when brands were a bit more localized.  And interesting to relate, India has a strong history of watchmaking and some very interesting models that are actively sought after by collectors.  

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

The Bangalore Watch Company was brought to life by husband and wife team Nirupesh Joshi and Mercy Amalraj.  And I personally am excited to see a new (now) micro brand emerge in a new location.

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

The first model to be released will be the Renaissance.  A 40 mm stainless steel case that is also available in a gold pvd finish.

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

The movement is Miyota's 9015.

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

Pre-orders are underway with initial delivery slated for May (next month).

The Vektor Radial

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

This is the latest offering from the little German brand with the big heart, the Vektor Radial.

The 2 piece 39 mm case is made of sand-blasted stainless steel.   The movement is the self-winding Miyota 9015.  

Sensibly priced at:

680,00 EUR (incl. VAT)
571,43 EUR (excl. VAT)

Available directly from Defakto.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

• Three-hand watch
• Two-piece 39 mm stainless steel watch case (316L), 6.8 mm high, fine sandblasted
• Height including sphered Plexiglas dome 9.8mm
• 39 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm, weight 52g
• Automatic movement Miyota 9015, made in Japan
• Engraved see-through case back, stainless steel (316L), fine sandblasted
• Matt black dial, convex
• Light, matte red/black rounded hands, manually shaped
• Flowing, sweeping second hand
• Ergonomic clasp with engraved Defakto logo
• German-made cowhide strap
• Water resistant to 3 ATM
• Made in Pforzheim, Germany

Wrapping up the Minuteman Darby DLC

So once again a week has come and gone here at Tempus Fugit and with it, sadly, the Minuteman DLC Darby will be winging it's way back to it's home at Minuteman Watches.

Minuteman is a young and growing micro-brand assembling their watches in the US.  But more than that, they are also endeavoring to do good, which is something we here at Tempus Fugit hold in very high regard:

25% of the profit from our net annual sales of  Minuteman products goes to charities assisting veterans & their Families.
  
Which seems like a pretty good deal!
 

With the Darby DLC, the folks at Minuteman have managed to do something that has evaded the abilities of several of the big dogs in Switzerland (Eterna and Longines spring to mind).  They have created a watch that is both emblematic of an era, as well as current and useful to today.  Military style watches are (apparently) a very tough nut to crack because there are seemingly limitless numbers of offerings from both the mighty and the micro brand, but pretty much nobody is ever capable of getting it really even close to right.  All too often, part of an indice is chopped out to accommodate a date window, or a desire to stamp the words "Military" or "Vintage" or "Combat" on the dial.  To put it simply, saying it doesn't make it so.

The Darby DLC does as advertised - hours, minutes, seconds and date in an easy to read format.  The case is solid without being cumbersome, the dial and indices are clear.  And for once, a date that can actually be read without destroying the balance of the watche's dial. 

The case is of stainless steel, with a DLC finish.  The overall feel of the case is smooth and clean, no rough or jagged bits.  The case itself measures a reasonable 42 mm in diameter without the crown.  

The crown screws down to help ensure the Darby's water resistance.  It is warranted to 200 meters, but needless to say it held up fine in the deep end of the YMCA pool as well.  The crown functions smoothly and setting and hand-winding from a dead stop was easy.

The case back is stainless steel.  It bears the hallmark of Minuteman Watches and has a nice texture and depth of finish. 

The model I tested came with a green NATO style strap, with black hardware.  A very fitting and (if I can say this) "ruggedly elegant" touch.  Unlike many watches shipping with NATO straps, this one was actually well-matched in terms of size and thickness of the strap.  It was a very, very pleasant experience to wear, which is should be the norm, not the exception, so full marks to Minuteman.

The movement is the Miyota 9015.  As has been my experience with other Miyota equipped models, the time keeping was stunningly good, and continues to help push the debate as to whether or not a Swiss movement (especially with the failure rates of some) should continue to be thought of as the top shelf.  More and more start up Swiss brands are moving to Miyota, and that should really tell the buying public something.  And it's not just about price.  The time keeping was bang-on.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Minuteman:

• Proudly assembled in the USA by Minuteman Watch Co.
• Stainless Steel case with black DLC finish
• Double domed sapphire crystal.
• Clear type A/R coating on the inside of the crystal.
• 42mm width without crown.
• Screw down crown.
• 200 meter water resistant.
• Military style Zulu/Nato watch strap
• Miyota 9015 automatic mechanical movement.
• Movement Accuracy -10~+30 seconds/day
• Luminous hands and dial.

And I think I will wrap this up with a quick story.  My day job finds me working as an advisor/counselor helping people get ready to either attend college or enter/reenter the workforce.  I was working with a family with their daughter's financial aid and the father was talking about his experience in the Marines.  And here's the funny part, he looked at me and said: 
"But you know all about that James."   
my response being:
"Sorry?"
"Well, you know what it's like in the service". 
"How do you mean?"
"C'mon, that's a military issue watch.  What branch were you in?" 

The Vektor

From DEFAKTO -

Courtesy of DEFAKTO

DEFAKTO has done something I've been waiting for for awhile - a watch that makes me say -

THAT'S THE SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS!

The Vektor is one of those watches that hits you on so many levels that you really just want to run and grab a credit card and place your order!

Available in black (above), and a really classic white (below) -

Courtesy of Defakto

The case measures 39 mm - a very sensible size choice.  The case is stainless steel and made by Ickler.  

Courtesy of Defakto

The movement is Miyota's 9015 self-winding with sweeping seconds. 

Courtesy of Defakto

It is priced quite well at 537,82 € Excluding VAT!

Courtesy of Defakto

Here are the pertinents -

Specifications:

• Flat 39mm stainless steel, automatic watch 
• In-house manufactured two -piece watch case
• Mix of brushed and polished surfaces
• Convex dial and manually bent hands
• Spherical Plexiglas dome, highly anti reflective
• German made Defakto cowhide or lack strap
• Automatic movement Miyota 9015, sweeping seconds, Japanese made.

Courtesy of Defakto

The Atom

From Pinion -

Courtesy of Pinion

This is a new offering from Pinion, a brand based in England.    

This new model is meant to be an entry level model, and is priced at £790 (and £658.33 for no EU customers) which according to XE currency exchange online as of 8:03 AM Eastern time is $846.70 US.

The Atom measures 42 mm in diameter, 11mm in height.  The movement is the Miyota 9015, offering hours, minutes, (hacking) seconds and date at 6 o'clock. 

Courtesy of Pinion

Here are the pertinents -

FEATURES

·      Automatic Japanese mechanical movement

·      Time in hours, minutes

·      Hacking seconds

·      Date display

·      Push in crown

·      Stainless steel case back, engraved

·      22mm Handmade vintage style leather strap (brown or dark grey)

MOVEMENT

·      Japanese Miyota 9015

·      Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour

·      Jewels: 24

·      Power reserve: 42 hours

·      Winding: Automatic / self-winding

WATCH

·      Case: 42mm, 316L Stainless steel, bead-blasted finish

·      Glass: Sapphire, convex with anti-reflective coating on the inside

·      Water resistance: 10AT (100 metres)

·      Shock resistance:

·      Diameter: 42mm excluding crown

·      Case height: 11mm

 

Seven Days with the Lundis Bleus

So I have a very honest confession to make.  I am in the doldrums right now and have been for awhile regarding most of the new watch brands hurtling out of the ether of crowd funding or other financial means. While there have been a few that have caught my attention, very little has really stood out.  Until now.

Lundis Bleus is the collaboration of two watch makers who met while learning their craft in La Chaux-de-Fonds back in the mid-90s.  Johan Storni and Bastien Vuilliomenet went their own ways after completing their studies, worked at their craft and nearly 20 years later, they have come together to launch their watch and I have to say that I like it.

And if I'm very honest, I like it because I'm not receiving multiple goofball press releases drenched in the hyperbole of "restoring authenticity to watchmaking..."  blah, blah, blah!

Nope!  It's a pretty straightforward proposition.  2 guys who have made some pretty impressive and expensive watches for some pretty fancy-pants brands wanted to do their own thing.  Oh, and they wanted to make those watches themselves and sell them at a fair price.

The Lundis Bleus model that was sent to me for review was the 1100-01.

Courtesy of Lundis Bleus

And it was pretty swell!

Before I go into my own rundown, here are the vital statistics -

Design specifications
The basin-shaped case band design is extended by the radius of the box type crystal on the top and the radius of the case back at the bottom. The lugs, which are a part of the case back and therefore visibly separated from the case band, enhance the basin-shaped design by giving it a subtle visual effect made of curves.The logo on the case back is emphasized by the inner colored crystal, giving a stained glass feeling to it.


Case band
Round shape. Ø40mm. Stainless steel EN1.4404 (316L). Water-resistant to 3 bar. Material indication «316L» and individual number are made by deep acid etching between the lugs. Stainless steel casing ring. The assembled watch has a total thickness on 11mm.


Crown and tube
Crown in stainless steel EN 1.4435 (316L) with 7 notches, all polished (except the micro-blasted notches). Ergonomic shape that prevents the crown from scratching the wrist and is still very easy to use.


Case back

In stainless steel EN.1.4404. Top surfaces of the lugs have a satin finish and the area around the logo is micro-blasted, the rest is all polished. «Lundis Bleus» is done by stamping. The logo is made by cutting and then is soldered. The case back is assembled to the case band by 4 screws in stainless steel.

Top crystal
Domed box type shape in sapphire. Ø37.65mm for a total thickness of 4mm to the apex. Both sides hard, colorless, and have multi-layered anti-reflective coating. Press-fitted on a non-visible I-ring. 

Bottom crystal

Flat shape in hardened mineral glass. Colored in blue from the block. Press-fitted from the inside of the case back on a non-visible I-ring and held in place by a stainless steel ring.

Dial
Double plate design (in brass). Plates in galvanic silver plating. All applied parts have a galvanic rhodium plating. Bottom plate with grained pattern made by stamping. Upper plate cut and decorated with a circular satin finish. Domed circular applied logo, Ø4.00mm. 12 stick-shaped applied indices. Polished applied date window at 6 o’clock. Polished applied central chimney used to enhance the lateral view on hand-fitting. Date disc with specific Lundis Bleus font and background color matching dial main color. Minute track is pad printed in a dark matte grey varnish. Opening of Ø33.00mm. 

Hands

Flat cut hour and minute hands, in brass, with galvanic rhodium plating. Skeleton type with specific Lundis Bleus shape. Flat cut central second hand with long counterweight, in brass, with galvanic rhodium plating.

Leather strap

Width 19mm, straight. Long part 115mm, short part 77mm. Rembordé construction (turned-in) without stitching. Large fixed loop and narrow removable loop. Top surface in taupe color split cowhide leather. Lining in electric blue color split cowhide leather. 8 holes.

Tongue buckle

Stainless steel EN1.4404 (316L). Top surface with satin finish, sides polished and back microblasted. The sides are slightly sloped echoing the lugs.

Movement
Japanese Miyota 9015, automatic unidirectional winding. 111/2’’’ (Ø25.60mm, thickness of 3,90mm, hand-fitting excluded). Autonomy of 42h for the watch fully wound and not worn. Theoretically the automatic watch has an endless autonomy if it’s regularly worn. 24 jewels. 28’800 vibrations/hour. (4Hz). Oscillating weight with specific pad printing done at the workshop. Rate accuracy checked and adjusted at the workshop to +-10seconds/day. 

Warranty
Your Lundis Bleus watch is covered for 5 years again manufacturing defects. The first overhaul is free of charge and must be requested within the 5 years period. Your watch is delivered along with its engraved stainless steel warranty card. 

And that last seemingly small print item - the warranty - is actually where I want to start.  Think about that for a minute - a 5 year warranty!  A five year warranty is a very real statement about how much a brand is standing behind what they are selling.  Most do 2 years, a growing number of so-called micro brands offer 1 year.   Five years is something that really sets Lundis Bleus apart.

The Lundis Bleus is very good looking watch.  And a lot of this is down to design. The dial is in many ways the star of the watch.  It is described as a double plate design, and is crafted of brass.  The textured finish of the inner dial is wonderfully counterbalanced by the outer ring.  The textural difference actually adds a very soothing feel to the face itself.  The date is not a mere cut-out but a proper window at 6 o'clock.

The watch was incredibly comfortable to wear.  It sits well on the wrist, and owing to the curvature of the lugs, it sits snugly and securely on the wrist but the smooth finish of the lugs, case and crown ensures a truly pleasant wearing experience.  

The case back is really a treat for the eyes as well.  It is stainless steel with a great depiction of the Lundis Bleus logo (which reminds me of the Brussels Atomium).  In fact, the logo is based on the alcohol at the molecular level -

Courtesy of Lundis Bleus

What does alcohol have to do with Lundis Bleus?  More than you might think, but will get back to that.  Surrounding the logo are the words Lunds Bleus.  Nothing more, nothing less.

Although the case back is not solid, the display crystal is blue hued mineral crystal.  You can glimpse the self-winding Miyota movement.

Wait - you said Miyota?  Yes watch fans, a pair of Swiss watch makers are using a Japanese movement that has been gaining fans as more and more "micro" and not-so-micro brands began using them.  And so far the feedback has been very, very positive.

 

To be honest, my experience with the movement was unremarkable.  And I mean that in the BEST POSSIBLE WAY.  It was pretty much a "set it and forget it" experience.  It ran flawlessly.  I'd love to share more, but frankly when a watch functions as well as this one did, there isn't really much to share other than satisfaction.


So getting back to alcohol and Lundis Bleus...

well, no.  You're going to have to visit their site to learn more about it ; )

But the unvarnished truth is that this is a wonderfully charming watch.  It is good looking, wears comfortably, and is priced very well.  You could go and spend a bunch more money, get a watch almost as good with a sports star or model telling you to buy it.  And get 24 months of warranty...

I view Lundis Bleus a lot like I used to view ochs und junior when they were getting started.  A fun brand with a great story and a real sense of what their customers might want and be interested in.  Some watches and brands are great for the masses.  And that's fine.  When it comes to folks who love watches, some find comfort in the obvious, and some of us look for those things that are out of the ordinary.  I could put it more bluntly - if you like being spoon fed, led by the hand, marketed (and sometimes condescended to) like a sheep?  Well then this might not be your baby.  But otherwise, I think you could do a lot worse for 1,350 Swiss Francs.

Catching Up With Hemel

So yesterday found me down in the Washington DC area at a get-together where I got to meet some very nice people and look at some very nice watches.  One newcomer that caught my eye was Hemel who were showing their HM Series -

Courtesy of Hemel

Hemel currently offers four different iterations with different dial options but does so in a rational and coherent manner.

My personal favorite was the Hemel Spear.

Hours, minutes and seconds on a clear, legible dial.  The case is 40 mm, but is nicely sized and styled a bit differently than the majority of items coming from the most of the other "micro" brands.

With luck we'll be hearing more from Hemel, but for now here are the pertinents -

• Movement: Miyota 9015 (automatic & manual wind, hacking second hand, 28,800 bph, 24 jewels, 42 hour power reserve, brass retainer)

• Case: 316L Stainless Steel, polished

• Case Width: 40 mm (42 mm w/crown)

• Case Thickness: 13 mm (w/domed crystal)

• Lug Width: 20 mm

• Lug to Lug: 48 mm

• Caseback: Screwdown, exhibition

• Dial: Domed, matte black w/Superluminova C3

• Front Crystal: Domed sapphire

• Back crystal: Flat sapphire

• Water Resistance: 100 meters

• Crown: Signed, screw down

• Straps: Heavy duty, one piece, nylon with metal grommets and signed buckle. Selvedge Denim.

Wrapping Up Seven Days with the NTH Scorpène

So seven days have come and gone and it is time to send the NTH Scorpène back home.

It is important to understand that this particular model is a prototype, and one of the nice little perks of writing a blog is from time to time you get to have an advance peek and test-drive of something before it is available to the general public.  This past week with the NTH Scorpène has been informative and fun.

NTH is part of Janis Trading, the same folks who brought us the Lew & Huey line of watches recently.

The watch measures in at a very respectable (and welcome) 40 mm.  I for one am thankful that the trend is, well, trending back towards 40 mm as opposed to the more outsized versions of divers available.

NTH offers very sturdy, straightforward dive watches at extremely reasonable prices.  The Scorpène is currently available as a pre-order item, but if the prototype is anything to go on, I suspect it is going to be a hit.

So let's run through the usual questions starting with the fit and feel.  As mentioned, the Scorpène is 40 mm in diameter. Size-wise, it is for most of us out there in watch-land the ideal.  The fit and finish of the case and the bracelet are first rate.  No hard edges, no sharp points.  Smooth and clean to the touch.  

The case back is a screw down type and is solid stainless steel.  And this is another welcome touch.  This is a tool watch, and it is the attention to the seemingly smaller aspects bear this out.  A basic, and clean laser inscription graces the case back ensuring that it will not abrade or irritate the wearer's wrist.  It is also a tip of the hat to classic tool watch design.  The is a watch to be worn, it is not a show pony.  And should you for any reason wish to inscribe it with your pertinents, you have ample space to do so.

The crown is engraved as well and is also screw down.  This helps to ensure the water resistance which is warranted to 300 meters.

The watch sits well on the wrist and is comfortable all day.  

And a huge (and often neglected) factor in the comfort of a watch is the bracelet or strap.  And this does not disappoint.  The links are smooth and well finished.  

The bracelet is an oyster style, the clasp is a fold over with two release buttons on the side.  

The operation is smooth and the clasp is secure.

The unidirectional bezel is tactile and the operation is smooth.  The indications are the classic diver's 60 minute scale with a luminous triangle at 12 o'clock.  The bezel is treated with lume as is the dial.  And this brings me to my favorite aspect of the  NTH Scorpène - the dial and hands.

The dial and hands.  The dial's layout is classic, with the 12, 3, 6 and 9 and supported by indices elsewhere.  The hands are sword, black at the base but with strong lume as well over the majority of their shape.

This photo was shot in partial light, which gives you a good idea as to the strength of the lume.

But the Scorpène, just like any watch, needs a movement.  And NTH has selected the 9015 self-winding movement from Miyota.  The movement ran true and was accurate with an acceptable rate.  The maximum deviation I experienced was + 17 seconds over the seven days.  The movement can be hand-wound from a dead stop and has hacking functionality.

During the pre-sale period, the Scorpène can be yours for $475.  The regular retail price is $600.  This represents a solid value for a solid tool watch with classic design elements.  

The pre-order information can be found here -

http://www.janistrading.com/scorpene/

And here are the pertinents -

Case Material:

316L Stainless Steel

Caseback:

Solid, 316L Stainless

Display Crystal:

Double-Domed Anti-Reflective Sapphire

Water Resistance:

30 ATM / 300 meters

Bezel:

120-click uni-directional

Bezel Insert:

Steel with Lumed Markers

Crown:

Screw-down

Case Diameter:

40mm (without crown)

Case Length:

48mm

Case Thickness:

11.5mm

Lug Width:

20mm

Weight w/ bracelet:

5.5 oz / 155g

Movement:

Miyota cal. 9015 Automatic

Accuracy:

-10~+30 seconds/day

Beat Rate:

28,800 BPH

Power Reserve:

More than 42 hours

Warranty:

2 Years