One of the true pleasures of writing about watches is meeting the people behind them. A little over a year ago, I got to meet Michiel Holthinrichs, the creator of the truly beguiling Holthinrichs watches. Like many people with innovative ideas - such as using 3D printing technology to "build a better mousetrap", Michiel came to the watch world from outside. And perhaps that is why his vision was perhaps a little bit clearer and he was better able to see opportunities where others had not.
And now, a few minutes with Michiel Holthinrichs -
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| Courtesy of Holthinrichs |
James Henderson -
What was your first watch? Was
it a gift? Is there a story behind it?
My first
“real” watch was an Omega pocket watch from 1929. During the early years of my
studies I became interested in style and classic clothing, and how beautifully
(hand made) details can enhance your appearance and sense of quality. I thought
that the perfect accessory would be a classic pocket watch, with a nice chain
decorating a tweed vest. I ordered it through Ebay, and as soon as I received
it, and opened the back, I fell in.. I think, love. By now, I can really say it
completely changed my life, as it had a great impact on my later decisions, and
the things I find important in life.
That particular watch, I will never sell.
JH -
Where did you grow up?
MH -
I grew
up in an old farmhouse in a tiny village in the Dutch countryside. My parents
bought it just after I was born to have enough space for their way of life.
Even today, the
house is completely packed with the art my mother creates, car parts from the
1920s-1980s - related to my father’s profession, and old stuff my parents
collect for their intrinsic beauty and quality. Mostly old French furniture,
lamps etc.
You can imagine these were quite abnormal surroundings, and as a child I wanted
to break free from all that old stuff, to be more like my classmates. Later I
started to realize how valuable this was for my creativity, and my
appreciation for things of quality and durability.
JH -
What did you want to be when you grew
up when you were a "little boy"?
MH -
As I
child, I was always drawing. From the age of eight I wanted to become an
architect, just like my grandfather, so directly after I finished high-school I
went to study architecture in Delft, and then for awhile in Paris.
JH -
You studied Architecture prior to your
"current" life. Did you ever practice as an architect?
MH -
Starting
from my second year of my studies I came to work at an architectural firm as a
side job. I worked there every now and then until recently. The firm is
specialized in the restoration and redevelopment of early modern architecture,
and I got to study and work on some very interesting buildings designed by famous
Dutch architects from that era. This refined my interest in details in design.
Besides that job, three friends and I formed a design collective together to
redevelop interesting architectural and industrial heritage. We did a couple of
projects, but then we started to all develop into other directions.
JH -
You compare watch making and design
quite a bit to architecture. What are some of the parallels?
MH -
What I find the most interesting in architecture is the power it can have on society. I strongly believe that great design, which shows that attention is paid to the people actually using it, has a direct impact on the feeling and behavior of people. Therefore, even the smallest detail has a tremendous impact on the whole, as it shows the actual level of attention and perfection. However, I then became really disappointed in the architectural practice, as I learned that often it is not vision nor design ambitions, but money, and developers driven by money, who are actually calling the shots.
Then came the pocket watch. I
discovered that watches are actually really about beauty, especially nowadays!
There has to be a perfect balance between design, craftsmanship and technology
to make it a good and appealing object, something that can make you proud of
owning it, and makes you feel good. This makes that watchmaking, or rather
watch designing, has a lot in common with architecture, however in watchmaking,
a designer does not have to make concessions, and really make what he or she
believes in. In my case: the pursuit of finding my own definition of beauty.
JH -
What makes Holthinrichs watches
special?
MH -
Attention to
details, an honest story, and a product that is a true result of a real ambition to
make good design.
Every part of the watch is developed by me, and I know all the involved producers
personally, so that I can learn from them, and know how to make the best design
for the specific techniques.
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| Courtesy of Holthinrichs |
The fact
that it is intrinsically driven makes the product very personal, and that will
attract specific customers, who I like to work for.
A search to find true beauty has a lot of frustrating
obstacles and disappointments, but the good thing is that it is never ending.
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| Courtesy of Holthenrichs |
JH -
What motivated you to utilize 3D
printing?
MH -
This
actually started during my studies. 4.5 years ago, I had a first
design ready for production. 3D printing was really becoming a hype in my
faculty.
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| Courtesy of Holthenrichs |
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I wanted to have full control over the process, so I needed to find a
producer nearby. However, the numerous details on the design, and the low quantities that would be produced
made it practically impossible to use conventional methods. As 3D printing
provides a lot of opportunities for design, it was the way to make the details
I desired, and the best thing is that it permits production in low quantities
or even unique pieces.
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| Courtesy of Holthenrichs |
The 3D printed product has a course exterior surface, which I think can add to
the design. Where smooth surfaces are desired, handicraft work (like that of a goldsmith) is
required.
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| Courtesy of Holthenrichs |
This results in beautiful contrasts, and in my opinion really adds to
the already existing crafts in watchmaking. I really do think that this can be “A new
craft in watchmaking”.
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| Courtesy of Holthenrichs |
JH -
You have two current pieces in your
collection (correct?), has one proven to be more popular?
MH -
Correct! I started
with the Ornament 1 – Ruthenium.
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| Courtesy of Holthenrichs |
A watch with a dark dial, very distinctive and
discrete, just what I think is very stylish. Soon after the launch I made a
version with a silver dial to be a more classic counterpart. Together they are limited
to 250 pieces.
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| Courtesy of Holthenrichs |
As a
tribute to Delft, the beautiful city where I studied and started the brand, I
made the Delft Blue. A very limited model (10 pieces) with a handmade Delft
Blue inspired dial, and a bespoke hand engraved movement. The engravings are
done by befriended Dutch engravers, real good and nice craftsmen. Thereafter
the movement is finished in my atelier.
Although
this piece is more exclusive in numbers, and in pricing, it proves to be
popular. I think a client willing to buy a watch from a small brand, or
directly from the maker, they really appreciate a unique product, showing the
authenticity of the brand.
The next steps will show new case designs, and bespoke artistic dials, made by
me in my atelier.
JH -
As an independent watch brand, what are
some of the bigger challenges that you are facing?
MH -
Proving
your right to exist. Exposing what you can make (and developing that), and
prove to be worth it to be interesting.
Why would anyone be interested in my work.
The designer has to be very loyal to his beliefs, “vision” and intuition,
making decisions based on that. This sometimes can be really hard, as there is
so much to learn.
For every independent starter some of the biggest challenges is to really stay
put
JH -
Who is the "typical"
Holthinrichs customer?
MH -
This
surely is the niche customer with good taste. Someone who looks behind the
famous brands (sometimes he already owns those famous model) to find
interesting small and creative companies and really special and original
watches.
Some customers insist to have a numbered version, in case the brand may become
famous. They believe I my work, and my brand. This of course gives me some
great motivation!
Some of
my customers do not buy my watches as an impulse purchase, take their time to
get information about the brand, and the watches I make. Because they are very
involved in the making of the watch, and the client can have direct contact
with me, they often purchase it as a family heirloom piece, dedicated to a
special event (a wedding for example), or a special remembrance. This makes
working on the watches very special.
JH -
You've taken the (somewhat) bold
decision to open your own shop/boutique. How has that been received?
MH -
Jups!
Well, bold…: it is just the thing I had to do! There was no choice, and I tent
to listen to my intuition, as it points me in directions I really want to move
intrinsically, and thereby giving me a lot of energy to go ahead.
I opened it to be able to have an proper atelier clients could visit, and to
strengthen my website and online appearance. The impact is immense, locally but
also international. Although I opened it very recently, I directly noticed the
neighborhood embraces it very warmly (a watchmaker I your street, how
interesting is that these days!?), and I can surely say I already have made
some extra sales which I would not have done without.
JH -
What is right with the watch
business?
MH -
In the
better segments, the innovation, creativity, the sense of beauty, and the
appreciation for what has been beautifully made and durable.
JH -
What is wrong with the watch
business?
MH -
The fact
that it is very speculative: marketing is often telling fake stories, and
prices are rising beyond reason.
JH -
Who else is making watches that interest
you?
MH -
There
are quite a few. Obviously I like the niche, and my focus in on design.
Movements are really important, but when the overall is ugly, what is then the
point?
To name some:
Grönefeld brothers: Bold (movement)
design, great finishing and materials.
Lundis Blues: Great case design, and
really loyal to their original concept, and their own capacities. Furthermore
simplicity in variation with great style.
De Bethune: Gosh what great designs!
JH -
If you weren't doing this,
what would you be doing?
MH -
I would
be building my own architectural firm. However, would that really be a real
option?
JH -
What Advice do you have for the next
Michiel Holthinrichs?
MH -
I really feel
honored for being asked that question, and personally I am not sure jet if I
am already in the position to answer this. However, I do think one should
really listen to his heart, and do what it says. It will not always be the
easiest thing to do, but would it make you happy? It sure does!
