Showing posts with label micro brand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label micro brand. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 14, 2026

The Hydrium Ice Fall

From Isotope -

Courtesy of Isotope

This is Isotope's first watch to use a stone dial. In this instance, Brazilian amethyst.

Courtesy of Isotope

The Hydrium Ice Fall's case is of (micro-blasted) 316L stainless-steel, and measures 40 mm in diameter.

Courtesy of Isotope

Under the hood is La Joux Perret's G101 Soigné.

Limited to 20 pieces, and priced at $1,703.00


Here are the pertinents -

Case:
Micro-blasted 316L stainless-steel case
Case diameter 40mm X 48mm (with lugs)
Height 12.9mm (14.9mm with double domed Sapphire Crystal)
Hydrium® screw-down exhibition case back
Unidirectional bezel with 120 clicks
Crystal, Dial and Hands:
Anti-reflective crystal sapphire
Screw-down crown at 3 o’clock
Brazilian amethyst dial, 0.4 mm thick, mounted on a support ring, with applied indexes filled with Super-LumiNova
Hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova®, paired with a heat-blued seconds hand
Water-resistance 300m / 30 atm / 1000 ft

Strap:
22/20mm quick-release White FKM strap with Isotope’s branded bead-blasted buckle

Movement:
Swiss Made La Joux Perret G101 Soigné MovementAutomatic, self-winding
Power reserve 68 hours
24 Jewels, 28800A/h
Tested in 4 positions, averaging ±7 seconds/day
Soigné finished with a custom Isotope Lacrima rotor

Sunday, July 16, 2023

Watch Brand Creation Myths - This One's A True Story!


By now you've no doubt noticed the Oberlin Watch Company advertisement at the right of the main article section -


In the summer of of 2020, as we were all getting "comfy" as lockdown was progressing, I had 2 seemingly unrelated conversations. One from a friend in my hometown saying something along the lines of - "Hey, you should make an Oberlin watch!". I put that one in my back pocket for the time being. The thought had crossed my mind on more than one occasion, but as my childhood friends may or may not have realized, it is not a simple thing to do. It takes time and money. Thanks (just kidding) to COVID, I certainly had some time. And this brought me back to an email exchange that I had recently had with another Northern Youth on the same topic. Courtesy of the OBIE Blog from 2022 -

About 2 years ago I got an email from an old friend:

"I bought an (insert the name of a very popular, very hyped on social media watch) 2 months ago and it died on me! What watch should I get?"

Okay, in fairness there was more to this story. My friend works in marketing. He is fairly senior. He has not owned a watch since the turn of the century (2002 to be exact). His rationale was:

"I don't need a watch. My computer has the time, my cell phone has the time, the time is LITERALLY EVERYWHERE!"

Well, fair enough. Until...

My friend was in the middle of a pitch - yes gentle reader, there was a time before COVID where people were expected to show up to work, in person, FIVE days a week! The pitch meeting was for a fairly large client with very deep pockets. (editors note, that company has since gone out of business). He was sitting towards the rear of the room. His job was to give hand signals to his boss (who was giving the pitch to the potential client) to let him know how much time was left. Not having a watch, my friend was occasionally looking at his phone to check the time. At one moment the potential client looked over and saw this, and came to the reasonable conclusion that my friend was goofing off with instagram, or some other time killing activity. My friend's boss clocked this activity and (once the client had left) exploded:

"What were you doing playing with your f'ing phone?!?"

My friend informed his boss that he was checking the time to signal to him when to wrap up. His boss was not soothed:

"Go get a damn watch! Not tomorrow, not after work, not even after lunch! Go get a damn watch right now!!!"

So needless to say, my friend exited the office and turned left into a boutique that sold (insert the name of an over-hyped, very popular quartz watch here) watches, and put just over $200 (with tax) on his credit card and wore the watch back to the office. His boss was appeased. And everything was fine... for the next 2 months. And then the watch stopped working. Not sure if it was a battery or simply defective, he went back to the boutique, and was given an address to send his watch in for warranty service (they insisted that they could not do this for him). So on Saturday he packed up the watch and shipped it back to the address he was provided. And...

He waited, and waited, and waited....

After several unanswered emails, phone calls and carrier pigeon notes it became clear to him that while he might get the watch repaired and returned, it was not likely to happen prior to his retirement or employment termination, whichever came first.

And this brings us back to my friend's email to me. What watch should he get? I suggested an inexpensive Seiko, a Timex, Casio, or even a Swatch.

"You work in the watch business. Can't you make me one?" 

This led to a 15 day back and forth explaining that, in fact, while I did sales, marketing and other things, making a watch was not something for us to discuss because unlike the salt and pepper, it was not on the table. But he kept pushing.

So I reached out to my friends at Swiss Made  Consulting LLC and asked, crazy as it sounded, if they could make a small run of 100 or so watches. They said yes, and that is what led to the OBIE1.

But it wasn't quite as simple as that. Truth be told? I didn't have a lot of ideas as to what it could/should look like. Fortunately I know a guy who is pretty good at design -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Armand Billard kindly stepped up and quickly came up with a design, logo, pretty much everything needed.

Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company

Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company


Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company

So part one was taken care of, now all I needed was a watch ; )

So I reached out to my friends Rod Hess and Stephen Roemer. Rod is known by industry insiders as "The most important person in the watch business that you maybe never heard of". Stephen is his brother-in-law and the primary owner of Swiss Watch Company.

And based on Armand's design, utilizing some extra kits that he had on hand, he was able to produce the first OBIE -

Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company

Now at about this time, I also realized that it was not an inexpensive option to make a watch for 2 high school friends who wanted a $100 -$150 quartz watch. So I started posting some renderings on social media groups for Oberlin Ohio and Oberlin High School. The feedback was pretty good and I felt that I could roll the dice on an initial order of up-to 100 pieces (as that was the minimum). Unbeknownst to me, a reporter from the regional newspaper - The Chronicle Telegram, had been following the Facebook group discussions. He reached out, and a day later my email in-box exploded with messages from people wanting to buy my new "OBIE" watch. That article can be read here -
The only problem was that the watches were in production, and I didn't have any packaging. In the beginning of this project I didn't plan to have any, but there were several customers buying watches for their friends, several of them buying 5 or more!

Stephen of Swiss Watch Company said he had some "left-over" packaging that I could buy at a discounted price. So I invested in some read and blue Krylon spray paint and got to work in the backyard.


In May 2021 the watches arrived, and the first 100 OBIE watches were dispatched. Now another funny part of the story - I thought that the majority of watches would be sold to Oberlin residents past and present. Not so! 

Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company

Of that first 100 OBIE watches, the new owners were located across the US, Canada, Belgium, France, Switzerland (5 customers!), South Africa, Finland, Croatia and beyond!
Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company

Fast forward to 2023 and the Oberlin Watch Company is alive and well with zero debt, and four retail partners -
Willow Jewelers in Oberlin, Ohio
Maryland Watch Works in Hagerstown, MD
Swiss Watch Maker in Cambridge, MA
Windy City Watch Collector -https://windycitywatchcollector.com

So, no crash landed biplanes in the French countryside, no mysterious British traveller met while backpacking through Asia. As creation stories go, it's pretty tame. The Oberlin Watch Company OBIE is simply a watch that was initially conceived as something fun for my childhood friends. And like everything positive I've experienced in the watch business, it was realized with the help of my Watch Town friends.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it ; )

And if you are so inclined, you can buy an OBIE at one of our retail partners, or direct from yours' truly at the Oberlin Watch Company -


Henki

Friday, November 19, 2021

The PILOT Power Reserve LE.2 Chronometer

From Brellum -
Courtesy of Brellum
This is the latest addition to the Brellum collection. 
Courtesy of Brellum
A limited edition of 17 pieces, here are the pertinents -


Caliber: 
BRELLUM BR-751-PR Automatic chronometer, base Valjoux
Officially Chronometer Certified movement (COSC certificate delivered)
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph with 12 hour counter and power reserve indicator
Case:
41.80mm stainless steel case 316L (DIN 1.4435), 100 meter water resistance tested 
Domed sapphire crystal (top) 
Exhibition caseback, anti reflection coating

Dial:
Domed multilevel green dial, sunshine pattern, azuré counters, satined indexes, Superluminova 
material

Hands:
Satined hands with Superluminova 

Strap:
Hand made integrated Pilot brown leather strap with stainless Steel 316L (DIN 1.4435) deployant buckle with safety push buttons and Brellum logo
Delivered with individual COSC certificate
Delivery middle of December 2021

Thursday, November 11, 2021

The Legacy: When FOMO Is A Reasonable Response

From Gorilla Watches -

Courtesy of Gorilla
FOMO.  It's a term we hear bandied around quite a it. It speaks to the anxiety or fear of missing out on something when you have the opportunity to get it, but you worry that your decision making paradigm might not be efficient or quick enough for you to take possession of that which you truly desire. And for some watch collectors this can be worse than a failed relationship. As the old saying goes, there are plenty of other fish in the sea (yes, in today's climate change reality even that old chestnut is debatable), but missing out on the Original Gorilla Fastback has haunted me far worse than the unrequited love I had for a certain girl growing up in Northern Ohio in the early 80s.

With all that being said, allow me to acquaint you with the Gorilla Legacy. And I say this without fear of contradiction - this watch IS THE SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS! (that's good).
Courtesy of Gorilla Watches
It's Déjà vu all over again!

The Legacy looks completely different, yet hauntingly the same.  Go figure! 

The case's vital statistics are as follows:
44 mm case diameter
48.5 mm with crown guards
13 mm case thickness
57 mm lug-to-lug

But it's not just about the dimensions, but rather the dimensions explored with the materials used to make said case:
Layered forged carbon case and bezel, anodized aluminum pinstripe, screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance
Courtesy of Gorilla Watches
The case back is of titanium.

The movement is, as you've come to know and expect, a Miyota.  In this instance it is the 8215 (self-winding/automatic).

The price is reasonable - refreshingly so at $980 which if my reading is correct will include shipping.  

Here are all the pertinents, straight from Gorilla HQ:

CALIBER

Miyota 8215, self-winding, 3Hz/21.600 vph

FUNCTIONS

Hour, minute, sweeping seconds

CASE MATERIAL

Layered forged carbon case and bezel, anodized aluminum pinstripe, screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance

CASEBACK

Titanium caseback, engraved

DIAL

Forged carbon, anodized aluminum, numerals printed with Super-Luminova™, hands and hour markers filled with Super-Luminova™

CRYSTAL

Scratch resistant sapphire, anti-reflective coating on both sides

STRAP

Bi-color Viton™

BUCKLE

Titanium pin buckle

CASE DIMENSIONS

44 mm case diameter
48.5 mm with crown guards
13 mm case thickness
57 mm lug-to-lug

WATER RESISTANCE

100M/330FT/10ATM

Tuesday, September 14, 2021

The Diplomat

From Hager Watches -

Courtesy of Hager Watches
This is a new release/pre-order 5 years in the making. In speaking with Pete, the owner of Hager Watches, he made it clear that this is something that he has wanted to make for some time, but one thing or another always got in the way. Until now!  Finally, at long last the Hager Diplomat is available for pre-order, and I thought I would focus on my personal favorite.

You can secure yours now with a 50% deposit.

Here are the pertinents for the small second version -

Technical Details Small Seconds

Case  

40mm Diameter: Thickness: 9.3mm; Length: 48.5mm

AISI 316L polished steel with exhibition casebook

Scratch resistant domed sapphire crystal

Dial

Convex Gradient Fumé sunburst dial

Movement

MD7081 (American Clone of the 2824) Assembled in the US

Functions

Hours, minutes, small seconds (Seconds at Six) hacking

Bracelet

20mm leather strap with a stainless steel tang buckle that matches the dial of the models.

Water Resistance

5 atm = 50 meters




Thursday, August 5, 2021

The Element Automatic Chronograph

From Formex -

Courtesy of Formex
While it is understandable that the Essence collections get a lot of attention from watch fans, Formex has some other collections that are definitely worth a second look. And one of the watches that caught my eye recently is the Element Automatic Chronograph.

One of the things that attracts people to the Essence range is the patented Case Suspension System, and you will find that in the Element Automatic Chronograph -
Courtesy of Formex
Under the hood is the reliable Valjoux 7750.

And the price is true to the ethos of Formex - a very watch lover friendly $1,390!

If like me, you are intrigued, here are all the details -

MOVEMENT
ETA Valjoux 7750 (self-winding) Automatic (Elaboré grade) with Chronograph function. Weekday and date display. 42 hour power reserve.

CASE
Diameter: 46mm
Height: 15.9mm
Lug width: 25mm
Lug-to-lug: 54mm
Water resistance: 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet)
Weight: 130g (case only)

MATERIAL
Bezel: Stainless steel 316L
Case: Stainless Steel 316L
Container: Titanium Grade 2
Glass: Sapphire crystal (front and back) with anti-reflection treatment

STRAP
Italian calf leather straps with Quick Release function and carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented Micro-Adjustment System.
All Element straps can be changed by hand without the use of tools.

DIAL
White dial with machined indexes, 60 second scale on the flange and Super-LumiNova on hands and indexes

REFERENCE NUMBER
1200.1.8011.322

Wednesday, May 26, 2021

The LEON Racing Edition

From Gorilla -
Courtesy of Gorilla Watches
This is the latest addition to the Gorilla stable, a watch that celebrates their new partnership with SUPER GT racing team, LEON PYRAMID AMG -
Any race team with a poster of Speed Racer in the pits has gotta' be pretty bitchin'!
Courtesy of Leon Racing
Kitted out in the livery of LEON PYRAMID AMG, the LEON Racing Edition is a wonderful evolution for Gorilla Watches. 
Courtesy of Leon Racing
While true to many aspects of previous Gorillas, this one clearly has moved the Gorilla design codes forward. It is limited to only 300 pieces, so if you want one, you'd better step on it!

The price on the windscreen?

$1'790 USD
excl. tax, incl. shipping


Here are the pertinents -

CALIBER

Miyota 90S5, self-winding, 4 Hz, stop seconds, exposed balance wheel, personalized oscillation weight

FUNCTIONS

Hour, minute, sweeping seconds

CASE MATERIAL

Layered forged carbon case & bezel, anodized aluminium pinstripe, screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance

CASEBACK

open titanium caseback, engraved, sapphire crystal

DIAL

Forged Carbon and anodized aluminum, applied numerals filled with Super-Luminova™, anodized aluminium flange, hands and hour markers filled with black and red Super-Luminova™

CRYSTAL

Scratch resistant sapphire,
anti-reflective coating on both sides

STRAP

Bi-color Viton™

BUCKLE

Bi-color Viton™, titanium pin buckle

CASE DIMENSIONS

44 mm case diameter
48.5 mm with crown guards
13 mm case thickness
57 mm lug-to-lug

WATER RESISTANCE

100M/330FT/10ATM

LIMITED EDITION

300 pieces



Thursday, April 22, 2021

Friday, April 2, 2021

The Oberlin Watch Company

Well, I guess the cat is now officially out of the bag.  

Over the past 6 months I have been trying to (quietly) work away on a personal project. What you see in the photo is the prototype / sample of the Oberlin Watch Company's first model - the OBIE1.

So in fairness, some background. As you know, I am a Northern Youth. Born in Zanesville, Ohio but raised in a small northern town - Oberlin.

Oberlin is noted for a college, a conservatory, some very open-minded and liberal thinking, being a station on the Underground Railroad, and in horological terms it is literally within walking distance of Kipton, where the Great Kipton Train Wreck took place -

Oberlin is also a town founded with the same zeal and ideals as many towns in the midwest were, and if you've ever read Sinclair Lewis's Babbitt, you could probably picture what it might have been like. It is also rumored that Mark Twain wrote The Man that Corrupted Hadleyburg as a response to a less-than friendly reception he received when visiting Oberlin: Twain had given a lecture in a church at Oberlin College in 1885, and it was unpopular with the academic audience. The Hadleyburg story may allude to this event. Scholar Russel B. Nye wrote that the story "was Twain's way of taking revenge on the small town" after being jeered at and rejected by the academic audience.[5] Writes Nye, "the story is coexistent with the publication of Twain's tale of exposed hypocrisy, the townspeople remembering his visit and noting the parallel situations. There are some interesting and provocative parallels between Twain's Oberlin experiences and the Hadleyburg of fiction". The town of Oberlin had been founded as a religious and educational settlement in 1833, and is and was known as an educational and religious center. Nye says that Twain read three stories that were received coolly by most of his Oberlin audience: "King Solomon" (an excerpt from Huckleberry Finn, ch. 14); "The Tragic Tale of a Fishwife," an excerpt from A Tramp Abroad; and "A Trying Situation." The fishwife tale is from Appendix D in A Tramp Abroad, subtitled "The Awful German Language."

And lastly, it was common to name a watch company for the town that it called home - Waltham (MA) and Elgin (IN) being just two examples.  Wendy and I have been nomads most of our married life, but if I do have a hometown, it would be Oberlin.

Now for all of you watch fans out there -
The watch is of stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter.  The thickness is 9.3, lug to lug is 48 mm, and the lug width is 20 mm.  The movement is the Citizen 2035.  The straps were sourced by the good folks at Lic Straps in Belgium, and feature quick springs -

And in case you need a reminder of what place your watch represents -

The dial design and case back are courtesy of my friend Armand Billard, the mad savant behind Sartory Billard.

Watches should be fun, and should evoke some emotional response. And judging from some of the emails I received today, I think it's a big success already.

I am not a watch maker, and I am not a designer.  
So I thank Armand, as well as the folks at Swiss Watch Consultants (the same dream team that make the Swiss Watch Company watches - Rod, Stephen et al.) for their support and assistance in making this happen.

The first series of the OBIE1 retails for $97.97 plus whatever shipping.

If it's in your wheelhouse, drop me a line -


Tuesday, March 30, 2021

A New Brand And A New Voice - A Few Minutes With Susan Galvin

Having lived in Finland for four years, I am always happy to find another Finnish watch maker putting their work out to the world - this way via Australia!  
Courtesy of Galvin Watch Company

And now, a few minutes with Susan Galvin, the woman behind the Galvin Watch Company

James Henderson - How did you get started in watch making?

Susan Galvin - I was 22 years old when I went backpacking around South East Asia and during this trip, I started to think about my future career. I did a one year art course after High School and I really liked designing and making jewellery. My Dad saw an article in the local newspaper about the Finnish School of Watchmaking and he suggested that I should consider becoming a watchmaker. Since I really liked doing things with my hands and I appreciated the complexity of the mechanical watches, I thought I might just give it a try! 

In the watchmaking school you learn how to repair the watches rather than making them. However, during my last year I designed and modified a skeleton watch using the ETA 6497 Calibre. This project was so enjoyable that I thought to myself that one day, I would like to establish my own watch brand. 


James Henderson - Prior to launching Galvin Watch Company, what were you doing?

Susan Galvin - After graduating from the watchmaking school, I was offered a job as a watchmaker with LVMH UK. I worked there for three years and from there I transferred to Sydney. From LVMH I moved to Swatch group and worked as a watchmaker with Omega. In March 2020, whilst on maternity leave I was made redundant. I worked in the field all together for 10 years, before I started my own brand in April 2020.


James Henderson - What took you from Finland to Australia?

Susan Galvin - Ever since travelling as a backpacker, I was dreaming of coming to Australia one day. When I came across the opportunity of transferring to Sydney, Australia from the LVMH UK, it was a no brainer for me! Initially I was offered a job from Hong Kong or Sydney, but I chose Sydney. 



James Henderson - You've now got your first collection (as Galvin Watch Company) under your belt. What has been your best seller?
Courtesy of Galvin Watch Company
Susan Galvin - That must have been the Alku White. It has been the most popular option from the day one! I call it a flagship design of Galvin Watch Company's Alku collection. 


James Henderson - What is your largest market?

Susan Galvin - I was lucky to get a lot of printed press attention in the beginning of my crowdfunding journey. From the publicity I received a lot of interest from Finland and Australia. So I'd say the biggest market audience comes from these two countries. 


James Henderson - I am assuming that the name of this collection - Alku, indicates that this is just the first, and that there's more to come?

Susan Galvin - Absolutely! I am currently finalising the new design, before ordering the samples. I am not sure yet if I should do it via Kickstarter or not - the future will tell. I am currently working on brand awareness. I currently have a relatively small but very loyal customer base who I appreciate immensely. It seems they love my story and background - so I suppose I just need to keep spreading the word.  


James Henderson - What were some of the challenges you encountered getting started?

Susan Galvin - At the beginning of the process I struggled finding a reliable manufacturer with good communication skills. After several weeks of work and research I found the right manufacturer for my business. Good communication skills are so important when concluding the design process and importing products from overseas. 


James Henderson - What was the most surprising thing you (hopefully positive) that you experienced in launching?

Susan Galvin - The support has been just amazing. I received so much heartwarming, positive feedback from all over the world before, during and after my crowdfunding journey. 


James Henderson- How has the reception amongst the watch fans of Australia been to the Alku collection?

Susan Galvin - It's important to have a brand story. My background and knowledge as a watchmaker has definitely helped me become noticed in Australia and elsewhere. It can be challenging to design something unique as there are so many microbrands out there, especially with the Alku design being based on classic vintage dress watch design. I added 3 new colours at the beginning of this year and they new have received a lot of interest, especially the Alku Peach.
Courtesy of Galvin Watch Company

Wednesday, February 3, 2021

Under The Radar - A Diver You Should Seriously Consider From SWC

Chances are good that if you are a regular Tempus Fugit Reader, you are not necessarily driven by trends or the name on the dial. Yes, Rolex and Omega make some pretty swell diving watches, but the truth is that most (financially honest and realistic) people cannot really afford one of these. More importantly, not everyone is driven by the same, well, sameness that the majority of dive watches have.

Now in the interest of full disclosure, I was aware of SWC (Swiss Watch Company) and observed the development of their diver over the span of a few years. I do know the principals of the family owned brand, and am proud to call them friends. But then again, more than a few of my erstwhile, well heeled friends in Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estate will tell you that I'm mad, bad, and dangerous to know - so you'll have to take that on balance ; )

Courtesy of Swiss Watch Company
Of the different color ways available in the SWC Diver MKII, the green (pictured above) is my favorite.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 44 mm in diameter. The movement is Sellita's SW200.

And the price? A very realistic $495 on the bracelet, and $445 on the strap.

Here are the pertinents, straight from SWC -

Full Specifications:

  • Swiss Made 
  • SW 200 Swiss Made Automatic Movement with 28800 A/h (4Hz)
  • 26 jewels
  • 316 L solid stainless-steel case
  • 120 step uni-directional divers bezel
  • Ceramic diver bezel ring
  • Oil pressed case back
  • Sapphire crystal
  • 5x Anti reflective coating
  • 30 ATM / 1000 ft water resistant
  • 20 layers of X1 grade Swiss Made Super-Luminova for the indexes
  • Solid 3 link 316 l stainless steel bracelet
  • Capsa pins
  • Solid integrated divers buckle

Measurements:

  • Case: 44mm
  • Lug Width: 22mm
  • Band Width: 22mm/20mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Lug to Lug: 48mm