Slightly Under The Radar - The Heritage Docteurgraph

From Montres Choisi -

Courtesy of Montres Choisi

So, I am the first to admit that I am frequently the last to know about something. In this particular instance, the Neuchatel based re-boot, Montres Choisi.

Brought back from obscurity by the same folks behind Azimuth, Montres Choisi is a bit of a tough nut to crack. On the one hand, they make some really cool, really good looking watches. On the other hand, if their website is anything to go by, unless you live in Singapore, or Singapore adjacent (Japan, Maylasia, Indonesia) it seems a bit of a challenge to lay hands to one as there is no online store. What I did manage to learn from this year's WristWatch Annual is that (assuming the pricing is the same), the Heritage Docteurgraph is likely to be priced at $1,800.

I am reaching out to the folks behind the brand to see if I can assemble a bit more information not only on this model, but Montres Choisi as a whole, so stay tuned!

Regarding this model, my understanding is that the case is of stainless steel, measuring 42 mm in diameter. The movement is the Valjoux 7750.

I will be back with more intel when I have it ; )

The Element Automatic Chronograph

From Formex -

Courtesy of Formex

While it is understandable that the Essence collections get a lot of attention from watch fans, Formex has some other collections that are definitely worth a second look. And one of the watches that caught my eye recently is the Element Automatic Chronograph.

One of the things that attracts people to the Essence range is the patented Case Suspension System, and you will find that in the Element Automatic Chronograph -

Courtesy of Formex

Under the hood is the reliable Valjoux 7750.

And the price is true to the ethos of Formex - a very watch lover friendly $1,390!

If like me, you are intrigued, here are all the details -

MOVEMENT
ETA Valjoux 7750 (self-winding) Automatic (Elaboré grade) with Chronograph function. Weekday and date display. 42 hour power reserve.

CASE
Diameter: 46mm
Height: 15.9mm
Lug width: 25mm
Lug-to-lug: 54mm
Water resistance: 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet)
Weight: 130g (case only)

MATERIAL
Bezel: Stainless steel 316L
Case: Stainless Steel 316L
Container: Titanium Grade 2
Glass: Sapphire crystal (front and back) with anti-reflection treatment

STRAP
Italian calf leather straps with Quick Release function and carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented Micro-Adjustment System.
All Element straps can be changed by hand without the use of tools.

DIAL
White dial with machined indexes, 60 second scale on the flange and Super-LumiNova on hands and indexes

REFERENCE NUMBER
1200.1.8011.322

The R500

 From Sinn -

Courtesy of Sinn

And it is DOPE AS HELL!

(That means I like it)

Courtesy of Sinn

A truly cool limited series of 300 pieces.  The case is of titanium, and yes, that is a "bullhead" orientation for the crown and pushers!

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Description

A historical model returns: with the Model R500 limited to 300 pieces, we’re presenting a racing stopwatch with this extraordinary design in our range for the first time in many years. What sets this watch apart visually is the position of the crown at 12 o’clock and the push-pieces at 11 and 1 o’clock. Thanks to this arrangement, the Model R500 represents an analogy to the traditional stopwatch and motorsport. The tachymeter scale on the interior bezel is used to measure speeds. With the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, you can always see whether the timepiece is ready to go. The displays for hour, minute and subsidiary second and the stop functions for 12 hours, 30 minutes and 60 seconds are mounted in the centre for high-precision time measurement.

The unusual positions of the crown and push-pieces - also known as the “bullhead chronograph” due to the appearance of a bull’s head - requires an extremely demanding case construction. The dial slopes downwards from top to bottom and is thus angled towards the wearer, who can conveniently adjust the crown and push-pieces at the wrist.

The satinised case itself is made of high-strength titanium (Grade 5), which underlines the technical and contemporary interpretation of the watch and ensures a comfortable fit.

The R500 is equipped with a black cowhide strap with red seam integrated into the case. The recessed strap embossing pays homage to the hole pattern design so common in motorsport.

Technical Data

Mechanical Movement

• Valjoux 7750
• Self-winding mechanism
• 25 bearing jewels
• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
• Seconds stop function
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

 

Case

• Case made of high-strength titanium, satinised
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Case back screw-fastened
• Meets the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Waterproof and pressure-resistant up to 20 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Functions

• Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
• Chronograph
• Date display
• Interior tachymeter scale up to 500 km/h
• Power reserve indicator

 

Dimensions and Weight

• Case diameter: 42 mm
• Band lug width: 24 mm
• Case thickness: 16 mm at 12 o'clock and 13 mm at 6 o'clock

 

Dial and Hands

• Matte black dial
• Indices coated with luminescent colour
• Hour and minute hand coated with luminescent colour

 

Warranty

• 2 years

The Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer

 From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

Available in silver (above), blue (below) -

Courtesy of Brellum

And "not-so-basic" black -

Courtesy of Brellum

I am a Brellum owner, and the quality you get for the very, very reasonable price you pay is second to none.  And that price?  

CHF 2’890.-, excluding taxes, on leather strap (free shipping worldwide)

CHF 2’990.-, excluding taxes, on stainless steel bracelet (free shipping worldwide)

Here are the pertinents -

PILOT DB.CH.210

Caliber BRELLUM BR-750-PR Automatic Chronometer (Valjoux base)
Officially Chronometer Certified by the COSC (delivered with certificate)

Fully decorated movement, with Perlage, Geneva stripes, blue screws, Pilot rotor

Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, Chronograph, Power Reserve indicator

Stainless steel case 316L (DIN 1.4435) WR 50 meters, tested 100%

Sapphire crystal BOX shape on the top and on the exhibition caseback, antirefletive coating

Domed Blue, Black or Silver dial, sunray pattern, satinated indexes, luminescent material (Superluminova)

Satinated hands, luminescent material (Superluminova)

Hand made genuine Pilot black leather strap with Stainless Steel pin/buckle (logo engraved) or stainless steel bracelet

Case diameter 41.80mm, strap axis to strap axis 44.00mm
Thickness 15.90mm with domed sapphire crystal
Suitable for all wrists from 16 to 21cm (6.3 to 8.3 inches)

The München Chronograph

From Laco -

Courtesy of Laco

München Chrono 

Limited up to 200 Stück

Case:

Stainless steel, dark sandblasted, ø 42,3 mm, height 14,7 mm, lug width 20 mm,
water resistant up to 10 ATM, double curved sapphire crystal, closed case-back with engravings, lateral engraving, crown like navigators watch

Movement:

Automatic movement with chronograph Laco 50, basic movement ETA Valjoux 7750, 25 jewels, day / date, second, minute an hour counter

Hands:

Hour, minute and centre second with luminous material Superluminova C3, small hands grey

Dial:

Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova C3, totalizers and day / date grey

Strap:

Brown smooth calf leather strap with light stitching, slightely padded, 2 rivets per band side,
20 mm width, stainless steel buckle

 

The Duograph Chrono Klassik

From Guinand -

Courtesy of Guinand

Here are the pertinents -

Movement

• Calibre Valjoux 7750 / SW500
• Self-winding mechanical movement
• Chronograph function integrated into the movement
• 25 jewels
• 28.800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz.
• Stone lever escapement
• Stop-second
• Glucydur Balance Wheel
• Shock resistant as per DIN 8308
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309/ISO 764
• Movement diameter 13 1/4"" (30,4 mm)
• Incabloc shock protection
• Unidirectional self-winding mechanism with ball bearing, weight segment made of heavy metal
• Power reserve approx. 48 hours
• Movement decorated, blued screws, weight segment with engraved Guinand logo

Functions

• Hours, minutes
• Chronograph with 30 min- and 12 hours counters and central second hand
• Date- and day of the week display

Case

• Case made of stainless steel, polished
• Sapphire crystal glass, domed, anti-reflective on the interior
• Screwed back with sapphire crystal glass
• Screwed crown, double O-ring sealed
• Pilot bezel, rotatable in two directions
• Protected pushers
• Pressure resistant up to 20 bar

Dimensions and Weight

• Case diameter: 40.6 mm
• Case thickness: 15.2 mm
• Band lug width: 20 mm
• Lug-to-lug distance: 48.4 mm / 1.91 inch
• Weight without strap: 85 grams

The 206 St Ar

From Sinn -

Courtesy of Sinn

Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date and chronograph.  But this one goes a little bit further.  Water resistant to 300 meters, rotating bezel, and perhaps the coolest bit?  Ar-Dehumidifying Technology!
For more about that, check the factoids here -
https://www.sinn.de/en/Ar-Dehumidifying_Technology.htm

Courtesy of Sinn

Here are the pertinents, straight from Sinn -

• Case made of stainless steel, polished / satinized
• Electroplated black dial
• Tested based on European diving equipment standards and certified by DNV GL
• Pressure-resistant to 300 m diving depth (30 bar), certified by DNV GL
• Ar-Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging
• Captive diver's bezel with minute ratcheting
• Sapphire crystal glass in front
• Transparent back made of sapphire crystal glass 
• Low pressure resistant

• Mechanical Movement
• • The information on the mechanical movement corresponds to the current production situation in Frankfurt am Main. Due to technical changes, it may happen in individual cases that stock items of our sales partners deviate from this information. (further Information)
  • Valjoux 7750
  • Self-winding mechanism
  • 25 bearing jewels
  • 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
  • Seconds stop function
  • Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

• Case
• • Case made of stainless steel, polished / satinized
  • Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
  • Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior
  • Case back screw-fastened
  • Crown screwable
  • Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
  • Pressure-resistant up to 300 m diving depth (= 30 bar), certified by DNV GL
  • According to the technical demands for the diving norm DIN 8306
  • Tested based on European diving equipment standards EN 250 / EN14143 and certified by DNV GL
  • Low pressure resistant

• Functions
• • Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
  • Date display
  • Day of the week display
  • Chronograph
  • Diver’s bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark

• SINN Technologies
• • Ar-Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging
  • Push-pieces with D3-System
  • Captive bezel

• Dimensions and Weight
• • Case diameter: 43 mm
  • Band lug width: 22 mm
  • Case thickness: 17 mm
  • Weight without strap: 95 gramme

• Dial and Hands
• • Electroplated black dial
  • Indices coated with luminescent colour 
  • Hour, minute and second hand coated with luminescent colour

• Warranty
• • 3 years

Overtime with the Siduna M3440 Professional Compax Chronograph

Editor's note - this review originally began the week before I left for BaselWorld, and I wore the Siduna during the fair alternating between my Minase 5 Windows and my Sartory Billard.  I then wore it for an additional 2 weeks following the fair.

Since the announcement of the launch of the new and improved Siduna, I have been very anxious to get my hands on one and put it through its paces.  As I was getting packed-up and ready for BaselWorld, the folks at Siduna asked if I'd like to take one of their new chronographs for a test drive during the fair, and so I took the M3440 along with me.

During the fair, I wore a few different watches, and as I was "working" on behalf of Minase and Sartory Billard, I wore those watches while on duty at The HYPE.  But I switched to the Siduna M3440 for my time inside Hall 1 and other press appointments.  

Now as my photography skills are, I have been led to understand, somewhat lacking, here is a nice shot directly from Siduna so you get a flavor for the M3440 -

Courtesy of Siduna

So you get the idea.  I got a lot of double-takes and comments like -
"I thought you were a social worker, how'd you afford a Type XX", etc.  Upon closer examination, several people were struck by the level of finish, as well as the look and feel of the watch itself.  

Well, let's get back to the review itself -

I will concur with my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estates on the build quality of the M3440.  It is first rate.  The case is definitely in the "Godilocks" category when it comes to size - it is just right.  It measures 40 mm in diameter, with a case height (or thickness) of 16.1 mm.  The unidirectional bezel extends slightly beyond the confines of the case diameter, measuring 42 mm in diameter.

(apologies for the dust spots, I did not give the watch a complete wipe-down for each photo).

The watch has presence, but I don't feel like a poser wearing it.  It is a "wrist-appropriate" size.  And although it has some stature owing to its height on the wrist, it is nothing to forbidding.

The case itself is of stainless steel, austenitic stainless steel to be more precise.  And just what is austenitic stainless steel?  Well, per Wikipedia:

Due to their crystalline structure austenitic steels are not hardenable by heat treatment and are essentially non-magnetic

Now before everyone goes off having a Eureka moment, let's just clarify that 316l falls into this category.  But it is still kind of a fun way to describe the steel type as opposed to the typical numeric designation.

The case back is solid, not a display back and I am profoundly grateful for that.  It maintains true to the overall aesthetic and the original inspiration for the watch.

And just what is the inspiration?  Well, curious to relate, Siduna is now based in Sweden.  But it wasn't always so.  Siduna started out life as a Swiss brand, and then it went the way of so many, shuttering due to the decline of the mechanical watch business.  But  Siduna then found a new home in Sweden and recently the brand changed hands one last time and is now back in business and making watches.  The case of the M3440 is based on a somewhat "standard" case of it's time, incorporated into a watch that was used by the Svenska Flygvapnet (that's Swedish Air Force to you) in 1973.  The original design, per Siduna, was from Ervin Piquerez's SA design, circa 1968. And if it bears similarities to cases of the same era from Breguet, Heuer, Lemania and Bucherer (among others) that is because it was a pretty standard solution.  

The bi-compax chronograph ran smoothly, re-setting was tactile and precise.  The time keeping beyond reproach, in short?  Everything worked as advertised.

The movement is based on the Valjoux's 7750, and again, before all the Pointdexters out there feel the need to express their expertise on this matter, and how it couldn't possibly be, blah, blah, blah...
Relax, it is not exactly an "off the shelf" solution.  In Siduna's own words -

Our movements are based on an automatic ETA 7750 with Top finishing. They undergo several substantial modifications in a small workshop from La Chaux-de-Fonds, such as the removal of the date mechanism and the relocation of the minutes subsidiary dial from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock thanks to a proprietary module, and an upgrade to blue screws. The calibre 13 Phi received additional modifications on the back side to add the fly-back function.

The crown is screw down, and bears the markings of the famous (albeit esoteric) Compressor model that was, you guessed it, produced by Piquerez.  And for those of you so inclined, a pretty solid piece of research on the subject can be found here -
https://medium.com/sidunawatch/piquerez-from-drivers-to-pilot-watches-961957c25d5d?fbclid=IwAR0na59MUz1ZIzwBzRHNlAMsfm-yQtb5kUv-ws-Kv-6SXmFyhsjr0Z2DAiI

But, important to note that although the crown bears the markings of the Compressor, it is not the same function, it is aesthetic, but I think pays a nice, subtle homage to the original case.

Now last, but not least?  The strap!  The strap is a very, very nice bit of kit!  This one is the Havana Brown version.  Curious to relate, it was a very comfortable strap right out of the box, whereas some straps can be a bit stiff even after the "get ready roll" -

So here's a friendly tip from your old pal Henki, who learned it from his old pal Rod:  if you have a strap that you feel is too stiff (calfskin!  I would not necessarily recommend this approach with anything exotic), simply roll the strap ends up like a tube of toothpaste.  And boom!  You're ready to rock!  The strap itself was smooth, supple and extremely well finished.  The perfect pairing to the M3440.  It is completed with a signed Siduna buckle -

Quite smashing!

But just to keep things interesting, I had pre-ordered an Erika's Original strap  -

And Erika herself delivered it to me in Basel!

It gave a fun bit of twist to an already super-dope watch!

And for those of you unfamiliar, the straps made by Erika's Originals are The Shit That Killed Elvis!  Yes, they are that good.  Throw away your shitty old NATOs and get ahold of the real thing!

Back to the M3440, here are the pertinents, direct from Siduna -

DIMENSIONS 

• Bezel diameter 42.0 mm
• Lug width 20.0 mm
• Case thickness 16.1 mm

MECHANICAL MOVEMENT

• ETA/Valjoux 7750 base
• Thickness 7.9 mm
• Self-winding mechanism
• 25 bearing synthetic rubies
• 28'800 alternances per hour (4 Hz)
• Seconds stop
• ISO 764 Anti-Magnetic
• ISO 1413 Shock-Resistant

CASE

• Austenic stainless steel, satin brushed
• Double-domed aspheric sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on the inside
• Screw-down case back, individually numbered
• Screw-down crown
• ISO 22810 Water-Resistant
• Pressure-resistant to 10 bar

FUNCTIONS

• Hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds
• 30 minutes and ¼ seconds chronograph

DIAL AND HANDS

• Matte black dial with recessed subsidiary dials
• 5 minutes indices with Super-LumiNova® BL C3 Grade A
• Numerals with Super-LumiNova® BL C3 Grade A
• Hour and minute hand coated with Super-LumiNova® BL C3 Grade A

LIMITED WARRANTY

• 2 years

The M3440 is also available in a Flyback version, the one I wore and reviewed is the standard.  Both are extremely well priced, with the Compax priced at € 1,480 without VAT.  It gets a very solid two thumbs up from this reviewer, without a doubt one of the best automatic chronographs I have worn in some time.

48 Hours with the AMADEE-18

So suffice it say, this is going to be short, and sweet!  As my visit at Fortis HQ in Grenchen was wrapping-up, I was asked if I'd like to take one of their Cosmonaut series time-machines for a test drive (or flight).  I was, of course, quite keen to wear one if only for a few days.  So one of the AMADEE-18 series was made ready -

It's not every day that the brand owner breaks out his tools to get a test watch ready for you, but that's just what he did.  A rubber strap was removed, and an integrated "performance" strap was installed.  Now it is important to note that the aforementioned "integrated" trap was a hot topic of conversation during my visit.  My contention?  That the integrated strap made it more challenging for the wearer to change straps and travel with the watch in a watch roll.  Now the obvious (in hindsight) response was something to the effect of - a watch is designed to be worn, not "traveled with in a pouch", and that the integrated strap not only looks better but is more comfortable.  Spoiler alert - the strap was incredibly comfortable, and I bow in deference to the wisdom of the Fortis team.

Now before we get into a full-on breakdown of my 48 hours of wear, how about a little background on just what the AMADEE-18 was made for?  AMADEE-18 took place a little over a year ago, in February of 2018.  Per the OEWF (The Austrian Space Forum) website:

In February 2018, the Austrian Space Forum – in partnership with the Oman National Steering Committee for AMADEE-18 – conducted an highly international Mars analog field simulation in the Dhofar region, Oman. Directed by a Mission Support Center in Austria, a small field crew conducted experiments preparing for future human Mars missions in the fields of engineering, planetary surface operations, astrobiology, geophysics/geology, life sciences and other.

Conducting field research in a representative environment is an excellent tool to gain operational experience and understand the advantages and limitations of remote science operations on other planetary bodies. This field mission was designed to be:

• an opportunity to study equipment, procedures and workflows under Mars analog conditions with  humans-in-the-loop.
• a platform for testing life-detection or geophysical techniques, terrain tests for rovers and increase the situational awareness of remote support teams,
• studying the test site as a model region for Martian deserts and extreme life,
• serving as an outreach platform to enhance the visibility of planetary sciences

Fortis was an official industrial partner on the mission, and the watch produced was the AMADEE-18.

 
In terms of look and feel, Fortis got this one SPOT ON!  It had the layout and look and feel of the original Cosmonaut.  But what I found intriguing was the design decision to use a black PVD case.  But it occurs to me that this was actually a rather inspired decision (whether intentional or not), as it is typical for "star voyagers" to wear white flight suits.  A black PVD watch case will make the watch stand out and be more of a visible focal point on a large (sometimes "puffy") white sleeve.

Now in fairness, I was not wearing a space suit, but I will say that the watch itself was incredibly comfortable to wear, and once again, I was forced to admit that I was in the wrong about the form-fitted, integral strap.  It was wicked-comfortable.

The case measures 42 mm in diameter, and is of stainless steel with PVD treatment/finishing.  At 42 mm, it is right in the sweet spot for fit for most of us.  When you add in a good sized crown, and chronograph pusher buttons, you really wouldn't want to go much larger.  The crown and pusher buttons were sufficiently large without being too large, and quite tactile.  The crown was responsive and the setting and initial hand-winding were smooth.

As mentioned, the PVD finishing was well done, and comprehensive, including the case back.  The mission logo features as part of the case back's design, along with the Fortis logo.  Although tactile, the finishing of the case back was smooth and the fit and feel of the watch was comfortable.  Truth be told, you might not know that the case back wasn't completely flat unless you took the watch off to look at it.

The watch face is clear and legible, the main chronograph hand is orange, as are two of the other sub dial indicators.  Now the Day/Date function is a point of contention for some folks out there.  Some find it superfluous, others find it a nice added feature.  I find myself in the second group.  It is actually quite a nice little feature to have both the day and the date, and the design used by Fortis makes it easy to find on the dial without making a bit distraction.

The watch functioned perfectly during my brief time with it.  All chronograph timing functions operated smoothly, the hands returning smoothly between timings.  The time keeping was solid and did not miss a beat.  The movement used in this model is Valjoux's 7750

So all in all?  It's a pretty sweet watch at a very competitive price given all that comes with it. 

The Chrono Panda Monte-Carlo

From Guinand -

Courtesy of Guinand

A three register Chrono, the Chrono Panda Monte-Carlo is a stainless steel case measuring 40.6 mm in dimeter, with a rotating bezel.  The movement is the Valjoux 7750.  The dial is silver with black sundials.  Hours, minutes, seconds and date at 3 o'clock.  

Guinand offers you the opportunity to customize your chronograph with either a solid or display case back.  

Guinand sells direct to the public, and offer a truly competitive price for a truly solid watch.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement
Calibre ETA/Valjoux 7750
Self-winding mechanical movement
Chronograph function integrated into the movement
25 jewels
28.800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz.
Stone lever escapement
Stop-second
Shock resistant as per DIN 8308
Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309/ISO 764
Movement diameter 13 1/4"" (30.4 mm)
Glucydur Balance Wheel
Incabloc shock protection
Unidirectional self-winding mechanism with ball bearing, weight segment made of heavy metal
Power reserve approx. 40 hours
Movement decorated, blued screws, weight segment with engraved Guinand logo
Regulator system ETACHRON and regulator corrector

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Chronograph with 30 min- and 12 hours counters and central second hand
Date display

Case
Case made of stainless steel, polished
Sapphire crystal glass, domed, anti-reflective on the interior
Screwed back with sapphire crystal glass
Crown double O-ring sealed
Classic circular pusher
Pressure resistant up to 20 bar

Dimensions and Weight
Case diameter: 40.6 mm
Case thickness: 15.2 mm
Band lug width: 20 mm
Lug-to-lug distance: 48.4 mm / 1.91 inch
Weight without strap: 85 Grams