The 417 TI Desert Pilot, 39 mm

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is the latest offering from the folks in Guetenbach. The 417 TI Desert Pilot is a bicompax, hand-winding column wheel chronograph bearing the TI designation (titanium) as opposed to the more familiar ES designation (stainless steel). As advertised, it is available in 39mm, and also a slightly larger 42 mm option. 

Courtesy of Hanhart

Under the hood its Sellita's AMT 5100, a hand wound column wheel chronograph, viewable through a sapphire crystal display back.

Courtesy of Hanhart

Here are the pertinents, straight from Hanhart -

CASE:

DIMENSIONS
Diameter 39 mm
Height: 13.60 mm (11.55 mm without crystal)
Lug-to-Lug: 46 mm

MATERIAL
Titanium Grade 5, matte

BEZEL
Fluted stainless steel bezel, bi-directional, continuously rotating
Red Marking

GLASS
Convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Highly domed sapphire crystal (as on the historic model).

CASE BACK
Screw-down titanium case back with sapphire crystal.
Limited edition number

WATER RESISTANCE
Water-resistant up to 10 bar/10 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310


MOVEMENT:

CALIBER
Manual winding
Sellita AMT 5100 M
Symmetrical pusher spacing
28,800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 stones

POWER RESERVE
58 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS
Small second
30-minute counter
Chronograph with central stop second
Hacking seconds
Flyback

DIAL:

DIAL
Sand colors
Historical logo

NUMBERS
Historical Font
Black numerals with Super-LumiNova® coating (only very weakly luminous due to the black color).

HANDS
Hands with Super-LumiNova® coating (only weakly luminous due to the sand-colored base).

STRAP:

STRAP
FKM Rubber
Lug width 20 mm

COLORS
Sand colors
Black

BUCKLE
Pin buckle made of Grade 5 titanium with historic logo.

The BR 03-92 PATROUILLE DE FRANCE 70TH ANNIVERSARY

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

For the past three years, Bell & Ross has partnered with the Patrouille de France -

“Since 2021, the French Air and Space Force and Bell & Ross have forged a partnership of trust built around the Patrouille de France brand and strong common values. 

Self-transcendence, constant innovation, rigour, precision and a spirit of cohesion bring life to the teams of the ‘Grande Dame’ and those of Bell & Ross on a daily basis. And what’s more, it is the demand for excellence and the desire to raise the prestige of French wings to the highest level that brings us together and gives meaning to our association. The French Air and Space Force is proud to celebrate alongside Bell & Ross the 70TH anniversary of the Patrouille de France with this latest watchmaking achievement, the fruit of our shared passion”, says Colonel Malard, Director of SIRPA Air and Space.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

In recognition of the PatrouIlle de France's 70TH anniversary, Bell & Ross is offering this special version of their BR 03-92, which is limited to 999 pieces.

Here are the pertinents -

BR0392-PAF7-CE/SCA

Movement: BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case: 42 mm wide. 10.40 mm thick. Micro blasted black ceramic

Dial: blue. Patrouille de France logo at 9 o’clock. 70th anniversary logo at 3 o’clock. White transfer numerals and indices coated in Super-LumiNova®. Hands coated in Super-LumiNova®.

Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 100 meters.

Strap: blue calfskin and ultra-resilient black synthetic canvas fabric.

Buckle: pin. Steel with matte black PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) micro blasted finish.

Price: $4,100

The One That Got Away - The Pioneer Mk I

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

It has now been just about ten years since I worked (very briefly and very limitedly) with Hanhart. It was an interesting time, new owners, new management, and the attempt to pull what had been up to that time (in fairness) fairly dormant. A lot of money was pumped in, a lot of communication, a lot of effort. In the end, the owners and the managers fell out, the end the owner sold the brand and new management came in.

Actually, I am getting a little ahead of myself. In between, perhaps one of the sharpest operators in the Swiss watch business came in and through a fairly exhaustive audit process helped clean things up so that the brand could be sold to new owners.

Enter the new owners. And in fairness, now several years on it seems that Hanhart is growing in a nice, sane and positive manner. New models have been introduced, with a few limited edition drops selling out completely. It is a far cry from the Hanhart I knew, but in a very positive sense.

But this is the one that got away -

Courtesy of Hanhart

Perhaps more accurate to say that I let it go. But times change, and it is safe to say that I have much fonder feelings for the Hanhart of today ; )

 I can say that it was a great watch to wear, and one that I miss. So for those of you potentially in the market for a true flieger chronograph, you could do a lot worse than the Pioneer Mk I. And at €2,090.00, it is priced very fairly for what you get.

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Automatic chronograph movement HAN3601
Base Movement: ETA7753
Mono-pusher conversion
28,800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz, 27 jewels
Power reserve of min. 42 hours

FUNCTIONS
Small second
30-minute counter

CASE
Stainless steel
Diameter 40 mm, height 15 mm
Large crown and red button
Fluted rotating bezel
Anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
Screwed-down case back
Water-resistant to 10 bar/10 ATM

DIAL
Off-white or black
Super-LumiNova® coated numerals and hands

STRAP
Calfskin or stainless steel

The Hyper-G Burgundy

From Swiss Watch Company -

Courtesy of Swiss Watch Company

This is, without a doubt, my favorite upcoming release. The team at Swiss Watch Company has been slowly, but steadily building a rather devoted following. They've done this by making very attractive, exceptionally high quality watches, and selling them at a very reasonable price.

The Hyper - G is a good looking modern take on the pilot's watch. And although it is available in five different colors, my favorite is the burgundy.

The case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and is crafted of grade 5 titanium.  The movement is Sellita's SW 200 (automatic/self-winding). The case features a soft iron core to help ensure anti magnetism.

And best of all the price - $550 US, direct.

This is scheduled to start shipping in the spring time. Until then, here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

• Swiss Made
• SW 200 Swiss Made Automatic Movement with 28800 A/h (4Hz)
• Soft Iron Core
• 26 jewels
• Titanium #5 case *with hardened coating
• Diamond Cut Hands With Rhodium Plating
• Screw down crown
• Drilled Lugs
• Date Window at 6
• Screw on caseback
• Sapphire crystal
• 16x Anti reflective coating *with applied sapphire coating
• 10 ATM / 100m water resistant
• 22 layers of X1 grade Swiss Made Super-LumiNova 
• Leather strap
• Titanium buckle

SWC Hyper-G Specification

• Case: 40.5mm
• Lug Width: 22mm
• Band Width: 22mm/20mm
• Case Thickness: 10.8mm
• Case Lug to Lug: 47.8mm
• Weight: 56g

Edition 96

From Laco -

Courtesy of Laco

Limited to 96 pieces, and priced at 1.290 €

Here are the pertinents -

Case:
Stainless steel, black PVD plating, ø 42 mm,
lug width 20 mm, height 13,5 mm,
water resistant up to 30 ATM,
double curved sapphire crystal with antireflective coating inside, stainless steel PVD plated screw back with scorpion relief, unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel, indexes with luminous material Superluminova, protected and screwed crown with “96” relief

Movement:
Automatic movement Laco 200,
basic movement Sellita SW200-1 (Elaboré), 26 jewels, 3 hands, date, second hand stop

Hands:
Hour with luminous material Superluminova C1, minute with Superluminova cool gray,
second white with Superluminova cool gray

Strap:
Black, water resistant leather strap, stainless steel buckle with black PVD plating, width 20 mm

Dial:
Black matte, arabic figures and indexes with
luminous material Superluminova, white minute track

Weight:
Approx. 108 g

The BR 03-92 RED RADAR

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is a new interpretation of the Red Radar which originally debuted in 2011.  

Limited to 999 pieces, here are the penitents -

Movement:

Automatic mechanical. Functions: hours, minutes and seconds.

Case:

42 mm in width. Matte black ceramic.

Dial: 

black. Center minute disc and outer hour disc with small red aircraft markings. Red painted seconds hand.

Crystal: 

sapphire with red anti-reflective coating and red painted numerals and indices.

Water-resistance: 

100 metres.

Strap: 

black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

Buckle: 

pin. Steel with black PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) finish.

Two New Fliegers Take Flight

From Laco 
The first on the runway is the Neapel 39.  A classic with a spicy twist.  A friendly price of $410 -

Courtesy of Laco

Case:
Stainless steel, brushed finish,
ø 39 mm, height 11 mm, lug width 18 mm, water resistant up to 5 ATM,
sapphire crystal, domed crown

Movement:
Automatic movement Laco 21, base: Miyota 821A, 21 Jewels, 3 hands, second hand stop function

Hands:
Hour, minute and second black mat
with luminous material Superluminova orange

Strap:
Black calf leather strap with orange stitching, 2 rivets per band side, stainless steel buckle

Dial:
Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova, execution according B-Uhr Baumuster A

Weight:
80 g

It's wingman is the Palermo -

Courtesy of Laco

Also available for $410, here are the pertinents -

Case:
Stainless steel, brushed finish,
ø 39 mm, height 11 mm, lug width 18 mm, water resistant up to 5 ATM,
sapphire crystal, domed crown

Movement:
Automatic movement Laco 21, base: Miyota 821A, 21 Jewels, 3 hands, second hand stop function

Hands:
Hour, minute and second black mat
with luminous material Superluminova orange

Strap:
Black calf leather strap with orange stitching, 2 rivets per band side, stainless steel buckle

Dial:
Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova, execution according B-Uhr Baumuster A

Weight:
80 g

The Aviator

From Revue Thommen -

Courtesy of Revue Thommen

For better or worse, Revue Thommen is not currently a really "known" entity here in the US. Regular readers will recall that Revue Thommen were also behind the Vulcain Crickets that were presented to several US presidents when they visited Finland due to their cooperation with the Paajanen family. 

If I am understanding everything correctly, Revue Thommen is now owned by Grovana. 

This is the aviator, a classic pilot's chronograph with a tri-compax dial.  The case is of stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter.  

Here are the pertinents, direct from Revue Thommen -

Movement	SW510a Automatic Movement, 27 jewels
Water resistance	5 ATM / 165 feet
Case diameter	42 mm
Case thickness	15.35 mm
Weight	109 gram
Glass	sapphire crystal

further information

• Swiss Made
• SW510a Automatic Movement, 27 jewels, 28‘800 oscillations
• Curved sapphire crystal
• Both sides anti-reflective treatment
• 316L stainless steel case
• Genuine leather strap with contrast stitching
• Regular buckle for leather strap
• Screw down look through caseback
• Water resistance: 5 ATM/ 165 feet
• Case diameter: 42 mm
• Case thickness: 15.35 mm
• Strap width: 22 mm
• Dial: Blue-silver with luminous indexes SLC1 material
• Weight: 109 gram

PIONEERS! O PIONEERS!

O you youths, Western youths,

So impatient, full of action, full of manly pride and friendship,

Plain I see you Western youths, see you tramping with the fore-
most,

Pioneers! O pioneers!  Walt Whitman, Leaves of Grass

                                                                                    Courtesy of Hanhart

If I have a favorite "pilot's watch" it is a bit of a contrary choice - go figure. The current version of the TachyTele came out in the Morf era when Hanhart was still living in two countries across the border from each other with the watches coming out of the Swiss side (at least that "division"), and the stop watches coming out of Germany.

At that time, and still today, this one is my favorite. It is true to the ideas of a Hanhart chronograph with the bi-compax layout, the fluted bezel and of course the red push piece.

But more than that, the white dial with red indices is what does it for me.  Like I said, contrary to the norms.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter. The movement is the 7753.

Should you be so inclined, here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

• Automatic chronograph movement HAN3703
• Basis: ETA7753
• Asymmetrical button arrangement
• 28,800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz, 27 jewels
• Power reserve of min. 42 hours

FUNCTIONS

• Small second
• 30-minute counter
• Tachymeter & telemeter-scale

CASE

• Stainless steel
• Diameter 40 mm, height 15 mm
• Large crown and red button
• Fluted rotating bezel
• Anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
• Screwed-down case back
• Water-resistant to 10 bar/10 ATM

DIAL

• Off-white or black
• Super-LumiNova® coated numerals and hands

STRAP

Calfskin or stainless steel

The Nightflight Limited Edition

From Limes -

Courtesy of Limes

Available in 2 different dial versions, the black dial Nightflight Limited Edition LB (above), and with what Limes describes as a silver white dial -

Courtesy of Limes

The case is (of course) by Ickler and is of stainless steel, measuring 37.8 mm in diameter. 

Courtesy of Limes

The movement is the ETA 2824-2 TOP.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Limes -

Movement
Swiss automatic movement 

ETA 2824-2 TOP

Watch Case
ICKLER made stainless steel case, finely brushed and polished, diameter 37,8mm, thickness 9,5mm, flat sapphire crystal with A/R coating on both sides, mineral crystal display back, crown with Ickler logo, water resistant 5 ATM

Dial
Black or Silver White , arabic numerals (Superluminova)

Hands
White or Black, luminous hands (Superluminova)

Band
Brown leather, width 20mm, wrist size: 18,5 - 22,5cm

Price incl. VAT plus shipping costs
€980.00
(Price w/o VAT €844.83 ) 

The 103 Sa G

From Sinn -

Courtesy of Sinn

Traditions are all well and good. But sometimes you just want to give them a little nudge -

Courtesy of Sinn

This is the 103 Sa G. Sinn bills this as "The traditional pilot chronograph". Bravo to Sinn for taking a standard (and if I'm 100% honest, somewhat static) idea and make it fresh, fun and interesting!

Courtesy of Sinn

It is available with several strap options, as well as a stainless steel bracelet.

Here are the pertinents -

Mechanical Movement

• Concepto C99001

• Self-winding mechanism

• 25 bearing jewels

• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour

• Seconds stop function

• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

  Case

• Case made of stainless steel, polished

• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides

• Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior

• Case back screw-fastened

• Crown screwable

• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310

• Waterproof and pressure-resistant to 20 bar

• Low pressure resistant

  Functions

• Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds

• Date display

• Day of the week display

• Chronograph

• Pilot’s bezel with luminous key mark

  Dimensions and Weight

• Case diameter: 41 mm

• Band lug width: 20 mm

• Case thickness: 16 mm

• Weight without strap: 77 gramme

  Dial and Hands

• Shimmering metallic-green dial

• Indices and numbers coated with luminescent colour

• Hour, minute and stopwatch second hand coated with luminescent colour

Page 2 / 2 November 2020

Warranty

• 2 years

The München Chronograph

From Laco -

Courtesy of Laco

München Chrono 

Limited up to 200 Stück

Case:

Stainless steel, dark sandblasted, ø 42,3 mm, height 14,7 mm, lug width 20 mm,
water resistant up to 10 ATM, double curved sapphire crystal, closed case-back with engravings, lateral engraving, crown like navigators watch

Movement:

Automatic movement with chronograph Laco 50, basic movement ETA Valjoux 7750, 25 jewels, day / date, second, minute an hour counter

Hands:

Hour, minute and centre second with luminous material Superluminova C3, small hands grey

Dial:

Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova C3, totalizers and day / date grey

Strap:

Brown smooth calf leather strap with light stitching, slightely padded, 2 rivets per band side,
20 mm width, stainless steel buckle

 

MK-III Solotempo Nero

 From Orologi Calamai -

Courtesy of Orologi Calamai

Limited to 299 pieces, the case is of stainless steel and measures 38 mm in diameter. The movement is Sellita's SW200 Top.

Worth It! The Spitfire

From Gavox -

Courtesy of Gavox

So let's be clear - I am not now, nor do I ever foresee myself desiring to be a pilot. Having said that, there is something so fundamentally right and logical about pilot's watches. Clearly laid out, extremely legible, and accurate. Well, that's what it's supposed to be, but all too often this is not the reality. All too often, brands feel they need to dress up the dial as it it were an F1 race car. Not so with the Spifire.  The dial is elegantly simple. The time is easily read, and owing to the quartz movement, it is going to be bang on time. Which is sort of the main reason why you wear a watch, right?

The Spitfire's case is of stainless steel and measures 36 mm in diameter. And isn't refreshing to have a smaller sized watch? Odd though it may be for some, less is often more and in this case that is absolutely true.

And last but not least?  The price - just north of $200 US!

Here are the pertinents -

Smallest unit displayed 1 Hz

Calibre Seiko Instruments VD75

Autonomy (+/-3 years)

Accuracy (minutes per year) 4

Measurements Ø 36.0 x 41.5 x 7.9 mm

Water-resistance 3 bar (50 m / 199 ft, static)

Time base Quartz Oscillator

Limited Warranty 24 months

Measure between horns (lugs) 18 mm

Sapphire crystal (AL2O3)

Anti-magnetism 1,600 A/m

The Pilot LE.1 Power Gauge Chronometer

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

Continuing to go from strength to strength, this is the latest offering from Brellum. 

This one is a bit special.  The Pilot LE. 1 Power Gauge Chronometer offers a wonderfully legible dial that is also truly striking.  Styled on the instrument panel in a cockpit, the case and bracelet are available in either stainless steel or black DLC.

Courtesy of Brellum

The case measures 41.8 mm in diameter.  

Courtesy of Brellum

The movement is the Valjoux 7750 with a customized rotor, and is COSC certified.
Available on bracelet, or on a Nebur Tec strap.

Courtesy of Brellum

Limited to 33 pieces, this one will likely move quickly.  Priced at CHF 2’990

Here are the pertinents -

Movement

Caliber -
BRELLUM BR-750-PR Chronometer automatic (base Valjoux 7750)

Certification -
Chronometer Officially Certified by the COSC

Decoration -
Perlage, Geneva stripes, blue screws, Brellum Pilot LE.1 numbered rotor

Technology -
25 jewels, 28'800 A / H, power reserve 46 hours

Functions -
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, Chronograph, Power Gauge indicator IRM

Case

Material -
Stainless Steel 316L, DIN 1.4435; Black DLC coating

Dimension -
Diameter 41.80mm

Crystal -
Box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment

Dial -
Domed dial, with indexes and Superluminova (old radium style)

Hands -
Hours and minutes with Superluminova (old radium style)

Water resistance -
50m, 5ATM, 100% tested

Case back -

Numbered caseback with Box sapphire crystal, anti-reflective treatment

Weight -
On Nebur Tec strap approx.120 g, 170g on steel bracelet

The Flieger Klassik 40 Handwinding - in WHITE

From STOWA -

Courtesy of STOWA

There are fliegers, and then again, there are fliegers that are (in their own way) flights of fancy.  Please forgive the alliteration, but once again the team at STOWA have taken a standard idea that we all feel we know and understand, and given it a little tweak.  

We all know that pilot's watches are always, every time, 100% black dialed... usually ; )

Now I am certainly someone who appreciates tradition.  My high school soccer team never made it past the first round of the high school playoffs each of my three years on the varsity, while our club team (made up of EXACTLY the same players) made it to the "Final Four" of he Northern Ohio state championship 2 out of 3 years.  Sometimes tradition gets so embedded in us that it truly holds us back ; )  

But not so for the STOWA Flieger Classic Handwinding.  This is the Shit That Killed Elvis!  You can get a black dialed flinger anywhere - even from STOWA.  But this?  This is a bit special.

Here are the pertinents, straight from STOWA -

Case

Diameter:

40,00mm

Height:

10,20mm automatic and 9.20 mm in handwinding

Strap width:

20,00mm

Lug-to-Lug size:

48,60mm

Waterproof:

up to 5ATM 

Weight:

70 gr. (leather strap), about 120 gr. (metal bracelet)

Materiality

Case:

Stainless steel, fine matt, ground by hand

Dial:

white colored, black printed, Superluminova C3

Hands:

black matte, Superluminova C3 or real temperature blued steel hands

Movement

Caliber:

ETA 2824-2 automatic or 2804-2 handwinded

Mechanism:

mechanical, automatic or hand wound

Specific features:

screwed case back, date, hands and numerals on dial with Superluminova C3