The 417 TI Desert Pilot, 39 mm

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is the latest offering from the folks in Guetenbach. The 417 TI Desert Pilot is a bicompax, hand-winding column wheel chronograph bearing the TI designation (titanium) as opposed to the more familiar ES designation (stainless steel). As advertised, it is available in 39mm, and also a slightly larger 42 mm option. 

Courtesy of Hanhart

Under the hood its Sellita's AMT 5100, a hand wound column wheel chronograph, viewable through a sapphire crystal display back.

Courtesy of Hanhart

Here are the pertinents, straight from Hanhart -

CASE:

DIMENSIONS
Diameter 39 mm
Height: 13.60 mm (11.55 mm without crystal)
Lug-to-Lug: 46 mm

MATERIAL
Titanium Grade 5, matte

BEZEL
Fluted stainless steel bezel, bi-directional, continuously rotating
Red Marking

GLASS
Convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Highly domed sapphire crystal (as on the historic model).

CASE BACK
Screw-down titanium case back with sapphire crystal.
Limited edition number

WATER RESISTANCE
Water-resistant up to 10 bar/10 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310


MOVEMENT:

CALIBER
Manual winding
Sellita AMT 5100 M
Symmetrical pusher spacing
28,800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 stones

POWER RESERVE
58 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS
Small second
30-minute counter
Chronograph with central stop second
Hacking seconds
Flyback

DIAL:

DIAL
Sand colors
Historical logo

NUMBERS
Historical Font
Black numerals with Super-LumiNova® coating (only very weakly luminous due to the black color).

HANDS
Hands with Super-LumiNova® coating (only weakly luminous due to the sand-colored base).

STRAP:

STRAP
FKM Rubber
Lug width 20 mm

COLORS
Sand colors
Black

BUCKLE
Pin buckle made of Grade 5 titanium with historic logo.

The 417 ES Heritage Flyback

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is the latest from Hanhart. In one fell swoop the folks at Hanhart have created a singular watch that typifies the arc of Hanhart - past, present, and future!

Courtesy of Hanhart

Available in two sizes, 39 and 42 mm.

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

DIMENSIONS
39 mm
Diameter 39 mm
Height with glass 13.3 mm (11.55 mm without glass)
Lug to Lug: 46 mm


DIMENSIONS
42 mm
Diameter 42 mm
Height with glass 13.3 mm (11.55 mm without glass)
Lug to Lug: 49.75 mm

MATERIAL
Stainless steel, satin/polished

BEZEL
Fluted bezel, bidirectional, continuously rotatable with red insert
Red pusher made of HyCeram®

GLASS
Convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire crystal
High-domed spherical glass (like the historical model)

CASE BACK
Screwed case back
Engraved, consecutive serial number
Anti-magnetic housing base

WATER RESISTANCE
Water-resistant up to 10 bar/10 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310
Shockproof/shock-protected with Hanhart movement damping as additional shock protection


MOVEMENT

CALIBER
Switch wheel chronograph with flyback manual winding
Sellita AMT5100 M
Symmetrical pusher spacing
28,800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 jewels

POWER RESERVE
58 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS
Flyback
Small second
30-minute counter
Central stop second
Hacking seconds


DIAL

Black
Historical logo

NUMBERS
Historical font
Super-LumiNova® X2 C3 coated

HANDS
Super-LumiNova® X2 C3 coated
Minute hand and second hand bent at the end to avoid parallax errors

STRAP

Cowhide
Lug width 21 mm

COLORS
Black, dark brown or light brown

BUCKLE
Pin buckle with historical logo

The 415 ES

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is the latest offering from Hanhart, the 415 ES.

Courtesy of Hanhart

The case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter. A bicompax chronograph, it is powered by the manual winding Sellita SW510 M.

If you are living in the US or Canada, you are not going to be spoiled for options in terms of purchasing - you will have only one. Watch Buys still holds a hammerlock on distribution here. Which is a bit of a misnomer, as a distributor usually, well, distributes to retail partners. At any rate, unless you wish to travel elsewhere, this is who you will have to deal with.

The Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

The case is of titanium, measuring 41.80mm in diameter, 15.90mm thick.

Courtesy of Brellum

The movement is the Valjoux 7753, and has enjoyed a visit to the observatory to pick up its COSC certificate.

Priced at CHF 3,262.07 and limited to 46 pieces.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Brellum -

Limited to 46 units worldwide

Movement:  Caliber BRELLUM BR-753-Automatic Chronometer (Valjoux 7753 base)

Officially Chronometer Certified by the COSC (delivered with certificate).
25 jewels, 28'800 A/h, 46 hours power reserve; Incabloc, Glucydur Balance, Nivarox Alloy Hairspring typ Anachron
Fully decorated movement, with Perlage, blue screws, numbered and numbered Brellum rotor

Functions:  Hours, Minutes, Seconds, date, 30 minutes Chronograph, stop second

Case:  Titanium Grade 5 case, Alu tachymeter , WR 100 meters, tested 100%
Sapphire crystal BOX shape on the top and on the exhibition caseback, antireflexion coating

Dial and Hands: Blue Multi-level and Multi-finishing dial, diamond cut indexes with SuperLumiNova
Diamond cut hands with Superluminova

Strap: Blue Nebur Tec strap with Brellum Titanium Grade 5 deployment buckle

Diameter: 41.80mm, Thickness 15.90mm with domed sapphire crystals (10.90mm without crystals)

Weight:  Only 72 grams for the watch head, 8 grams for the deployment buckle

The Portofino 39mm Chronograph

From IWC -

Courtesy of IWC

Although it is available in three different color ways, I am rather partial to the green version.

Courtesy of IWC

A bicompax chronograph, the Portofino 39mm Chronograph is also available with a black, or silver dial.

Courtesy of IWC

The case is of stainless steel and measures - you guessed it - 39 mm in diameter.

The movement is designated as calibre 79350. It is automatic (self-winding) featuring 44 hours of power reserve.

Suggested retail price is $5,900 (in the US).

The Multifort Patrimony Chronograph... In Blue

From Mido -

Courtesy of Mido

The case is of stainless steel (with rose gold pvd treatment) and measures 42 mm in diameter.

Courtesy of Mido

The movement is the self-winding/automatic Caliber 60 which is based on the ETA A05.H31, featuring two and a half days of power reserve.  Just enough for the weekend if this is your "going to town" watch (i.e. Monday - Friday).

Courtesy of Mido

This one definitely appeals to me. As my odometer is approaching 53, and I am firmly ensconced in the world of non-profit administration, I feel confident (barring a Lotto windfall) that I will never be walking into a boutique and placing my platinum card on the counter to purchase a solid gold chronograph, so this is within the realm of realistic possibility for yours truly. 

Courtesy of Mido

And the price?  

CHF 1,990 is the ask.

The Cortina Chronograph

In addition to the 3 hand model, the folks at Echo/Neutra are also offering a pretty sexy chronograph, available in black -

Courtesy of Echo/Neutra

White -

Courtesy of Echo/Neutra

And a pretty beguiling blue -

Courtesy of Echo Neutra

My understanding is that this is a limited edition of 100 (I assume 100 of each color way). And again very aggressively priced at $1,590 US.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter, boasting water resistance of 100 meters/ 330 feet.

The movement is the hand winding Sellita SW510M BH b, featuring a bicompax chronograph.

Like the 3 handed version, this is a watch to honor the Cortina Winter Olympics of 1956. The Echo/Neutra watches are scheduled to ship this month.

Too Small To Fail - Siduna

The watch world is full of bullshit.  There, I've said it.  The polite way to put it is "hyperbole".
I tend to speak plainly, which does not always endear me to those who guard the hallways of Watch Town with jealousy and venom.  But a few brands have really made an impression.  And one brand that I have taken great pleasure in following and finally buying one of their pieces, is Siduna.

And the object of intense desire for me was the M3440.  

A wonderfully simple bi-compax chronograph.  I was lucky enough to get to test drive one during BaselWorld last year -

http://www.tempusfugit.watch/2019/04/overtime-with-siduna-m3440-professional.html
I saved my pennies, nickels and dimes and when I had enough I was able to pick up my own during the District Time show in Washington DC last Autumn.  Mine is lucky # Hachi (that's 8 to you).
I am a social worker/English teacher and I honestly cannot afford to buy everything that catches my eye.  With the exception of a SWATCH, each watch I buy requires a plan, some savings, some discipline.  So it has to be special.  And the Siduna chronograph is just that, special.


Siduna is a two-man band composed of -

Courtesy of Siduna

Peter Wadbro, the watch maker who assembles each chronograph.

Courtesy of Siduna

And Francis Jacquerye, the designer who also happens to handle administration.  They are truly a dynamic duo.  And they do not do this from some idyllic Swiss workshop.  No, Siduna is based in what I have come to call the "Copenhagen / Malmo" metro area.  In Landskrona, Sweden, to be precise.
Currently, Siduna gives you the option to have a chronograph.  In fairness there are more options than just that.  You can have the standard Compax model, or the Flyback version.  In addition, there is a tuxedo version which Siduna refers to as "Harlequin".  

Courtesy of Siduna

Siduna offers a wonderful watch at a fair price.  No goofy promotional partnerships, no instafamous hucksters, no faux-friends of the brand.  

The watch world is full of brands that want to sell you something - a marketing partnership, a celebrity endorsement, a lifestyle.  In fairness, Siduna wants to sell you something as well -

A Watch.

Siduna - Too Small To Fail.

Seven Days with the Hemel HFT20 / VK64

Courtesy of Hemel

As I sprint to get caught up before winging off for a foreign factory visit (more to come), I am rushing to get caught up on everything that has been going on here at Tempus Fugit.

And one of those things is this review of one of Hemel's latest offerings, the HFT20/VK64 Configuration.

The HFT20 / VK64 is a unique proposition - a classically designed chronograph that is affordable without sacrificing on performance by using a dodgy movement.  Brands, both micro and mini, will often give you the "vanilla or chocolate" choice - i.e. affordable = quartz, and expensive = automatic.  But Hemel, in their wisdom, figured that there might be some people out there who like strawberry - i.e. a meca quartz movement.

Just what is a meca quartz movement?  I'm glad you asked!  Essentially, a meca quartz movement is quartz, ensuring pretty much the most accurate time keeping possible.  But it goes a step further, incorporating a mechanical module for the chronograph function which gives it a lovely "sweep" effect.

So back to the review  -

The watch case is substantial and sturdy.  It measures 42 mm in diameter, of stainless steel, and is equipped with a unidirectional stainless steel bezel that is engraved with a 12 hour scale that can also function as a second time zone or GMT feature.  The fit of the watch will be good for most wrists, and while the watch has presence, it is not overwhelming.

The dial is clear and legible.  It is bicompax,  with a 24 hour indicator on the right (at 3 o'clock), a sixty minute counter on the left (at 9 o'clock), with the orange 60 second chronograph hand mounted at the center.  And yes, the sweep function of the chronograph function is very, very smooth and impressive.  The pusher buttons function cleanly and engage without any hesitation or "jumpiness".

The case back is solid steel and engraved on the back.  I have seen mecha quartz equipped watches with display backs, and I have to say that while these movements provide a wonderful look and feel due to the smooth effect with the sweep function, the movement itself is not going to win any contests for artistic execution.

My one piece of feedback is to make sure that all of the case backs are centered when the watches are assembled.  In fairness, I have seen plenty of watch case backs where the logos, engraving, etc., are not centered either.  But having said that, when you go to that much trouble with the design and engraving / decoration of the case back, it detracts a wee bit from the overall feeling when it is not centered.  And in fairness, this might be a one-off.

The HFT20 comes with a solid, thick and tactile leather strap.  The strap is quite comfortable, and adds a nice touch to the watch.  It is paired with a very well executed stainless steel buckle -

The buckle has a nice engraving, an added little touch that truly adds to the overall feel of the watch, and the crown is another nice flourish -

Overall, this has been a very enjoyable watch to wear.  Hemel has cracked the code of making a more affordable chronograph that does not look cheap and tinny.  This one is solid, tactile, and performs exceedingly well.  And it looks very, very good.






Priced at  $449.99, this is a great watch at a great price.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Hemel -

Reference HF Series                                                                                                                  

                                                                                          

• Movement: VK64 mecaquartz. Quartz caliber incorporates gear architecture for smooth second hand sweep.

• Case: 316L Stainless Steel, brushed

• Case Width: 42 mm

• Lug Width: 20 mm

• Lug to Lug: 49 mm

• Caseback: Screwdown, engraved

• Dial: Matte black w/Superluminova C3

• Front Crystal: Flat sapphire

• Water Resistance: 100 meters

• Crown: Signed, push / pull                                                                                                        

• Bezels: 60 Minute bezel, ceramic / GMT bezel, stainless steel

• Straps: Vintage cognac leather, two piece with signed buckle and steel rivets. Now shipping with an additional strap, the NDC (while supplies last).

 
And one last little nice bit, Hemel is directing a portion of the proceeds to charitable organizations:

Indicate at checkout which non-profit organization you'd like a 5% portion of your purchase proceeds to go to: Toys For Tots, Wounded Warriors or the Bob Woodruff Foundation.

The BR V2-94 Bellytanker

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

There is something quite wonderful happening at Bell & Ross.  They are re-discovering their (admittedly not too ancient) roots, and in doing so offering some truly fantastic watches.  While I realize that there is a fair amount of enthusiasm about the Instrument collection, I have always been personally drawn to the pieces that make up the BRV models that are part of what is referred to as the Vintage collection.  But having said that, the line was getting a wee bit flat.  Like Henry Ford's Model T, you could have any model you wanted, so long as it was black.  I kid a bit here, because there had been some options like silver, or in the case of the Aeronvale, a stunning blue.  

But with the release of the GARDE-CÔTES, and now the BELLYTANKER, there is a fresh new take on a classic collection that has this Bell & Ross fan excited!

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

In fairness, I have not seen this model in person, so all that I have to go by are the images and the spec. sheet.  Having recently reviewed a "gently used" Bell & Ross chronograph ( The 2 Year Review ) I have to say that I came to really appreciate the tachymeter scale on the bezel.  The addition of screw-down push pieces greatly adds to the sporty look of the watch, but does so gently, and subtly.  It does not hit you over the head screaming - "I'm a sport watch, dammit!".  Rather, it lures you in, seductively.  

The dial is one that is going to haunt me for some time.  It is pleasingly different from what is available on the market.  What Bell & Ross describes as metallic copper and black.  It pops without overwhelming.  I hope at some point that a review might be possible, but I have to go with what is real - a visual impression (a very positive one), and the spec. sheet, which you can get the pertinents from below:

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.301. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o'clock. Date. 

Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o'clock, central chronograph seconds.

Case: 41 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel. Steel bezel with tachymeter scale. Screw-down crown and push-buttons. Sapphire case-back. 

Dial: gilt. Metal applique numerals and indices. Metal skeletonised Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal: ultra-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating. 

Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Straps: satin-polished steel or brown calfskin.

The Heritage Cronometro TIPO CP-2

From Zenith -

Courtesy of Zenith

This was a refreshing change of pace from the flood of co-branded watches coming down the chute lately.  A beautiful bi-compax with rotating bezel.

Courtesy of Zenith

This is a watch inspired by an earlier Zenith model.  The original was for the Italian military and was issued to pilots in the Air force and Navy and delivered through Zenith's Roman distributor A. Cairelli.

And now it is being reissued in a limited edition of 1,000 pieces.

The movement is the El Primero and according to the folks at Zenith, offers 50 hours of power reserve.