Why I Bought It - The Straton Curve Chrono

Okay, point of full disclosure?  I have a few watches.  And having said that, it takes something special for me to dip into my piggy-bank and part with "coin of the realm".  It is not about exclusivity, mechanical vs quartz, or snotty provenance.  I buy what I like.  

Smudges and all, because yes, I've been wearing it!

Well, suffice it to say, this I like.  Straton has done something that a lot of brands, both micro and macro have promised, but have yet to deliver.  Designed, produce and offer for sale a watch with a shit-ton of personality and appeal at a realistic price.  And Straton have done it without insane investments in marketing, "chums" of the brand, or any other silly attempt to pump themselves up. 

The Straton Curve Chrono comes equipped with a  Seiko VK64 meca-quartz hybrid movement. And for those unacquainted about just what a meca-quartz hybrid movement is?  Well, per Straton:

What exactly is 'Meca-Quartz'? - A movement developed by Seiko is a hybrid movement which combines the accuracy of a quartz watch (+/- 20 seconds average per month) with a Mechanical Chronograph (5 beat per second sweep chronograph hand and fly-back chronograph reset).

And as someone who is now not exactly enjoying the headache (to say nothing of the expense) of servicing several mechanical watches per year?  Let's just say that this little wrist-rocket came into my life at just the right time.

For those of you interested in the pertinents, here they are -

Specifications:

Case Material - 316L (Surgical Grade) Stainless Steel, Polished and brushed steel
Case Size - 42mm and 39.5mm
Lug To Lug - 42mm case: 47.4mm
Lug To Lug - 39.5mm case: 46.5mm
Case Thickness - 13.9mm without domed sapphire, 14.5mm with
Movement - Seiko VK64 meca-quartz hybrid
Crystal - Domed Sapphire Crystal
Hands - Luminescent Hour Hands, C3 Superluminova
Crown - Screw down
Inner rotating bezel, tracking a second time zone
Stamped case back design
Strap - 42mm case 22mm width, 39.5mm case 20mm width
Water Resistance - 10ATM/100m
Warranty - 24 Months 

 

Seven Days with the Hemel HFT20 / VK64

Courtesy of Hemel

As I sprint to get caught up before winging off for a foreign factory visit (more to come), I am rushing to get caught up on everything that has been going on here at Tempus Fugit.

And one of those things is this review of one of Hemel's latest offerings, the HFT20/VK64 Configuration.

The HFT20 / VK64 is a unique proposition - a classically designed chronograph that is affordable without sacrificing on performance by using a dodgy movement.  Brands, both micro and mini, will often give you the "vanilla or chocolate" choice - i.e. affordable = quartz, and expensive = automatic.  But Hemel, in their wisdom, figured that there might be some people out there who like strawberry - i.e. a meca quartz movement.

Just what is a meca quartz movement?  I'm glad you asked!  Essentially, a meca quartz movement is quartz, ensuring pretty much the most accurate time keeping possible.  But it goes a step further, incorporating a mechanical module for the chronograph function which gives it a lovely "sweep" effect.

So back to the review  -

The watch case is substantial and sturdy.  It measures 42 mm in diameter, of stainless steel, and is equipped with a unidirectional stainless steel bezel that is engraved with a 12 hour scale that can also function as a second time zone or GMT feature.  The fit of the watch will be good for most wrists, and while the watch has presence, it is not overwhelming.

The dial is clear and legible.  It is bicompax,  with a 24 hour indicator on the right (at 3 o'clock), a sixty minute counter on the left (at 9 o'clock), with the orange 60 second chronograph hand mounted at the center.  And yes, the sweep function of the chronograph function is very, very smooth and impressive.  The pusher buttons function cleanly and engage without any hesitation or "jumpiness".

The case back is solid steel and engraved on the back.  I have seen mecha quartz equipped watches with display backs, and I have to say that while these movements provide a wonderful look and feel due to the smooth effect with the sweep function, the movement itself is not going to win any contests for artistic execution.

My one piece of feedback is to make sure that all of the case backs are centered when the watches are assembled.  In fairness, I have seen plenty of watch case backs where the logos, engraving, etc., are not centered either.  But having said that, when you go to that much trouble with the design and engraving / decoration of the case back, it detracts a wee bit from the overall feeling when it is not centered.  And in fairness, this might be a one-off.

The HFT20 comes with a solid, thick and tactile leather strap.  The strap is quite comfortable, and adds a nice touch to the watch.  It is paired with a very well executed stainless steel buckle -

The buckle has a nice engraving, an added little touch that truly adds to the overall feel of the watch, and the crown is another nice flourish -

Overall, this has been a very enjoyable watch to wear.  Hemel has cracked the code of making a more affordable chronograph that does not look cheap and tinny.  This one is solid, tactile, and performs exceedingly well.  And it looks very, very good.






Priced at  $449.99, this is a great watch at a great price.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Hemel -

Reference HF Series                                                                                                                  

                                                                                          

• Movement: VK64 mecaquartz. Quartz caliber incorporates gear architecture for smooth second hand sweep.

• Case: 316L Stainless Steel, brushed

• Case Width: 42 mm

• Lug Width: 20 mm

• Lug to Lug: 49 mm

• Caseback: Screwdown, engraved

• Dial: Matte black w/Superluminova C3

• Front Crystal: Flat sapphire

• Water Resistance: 100 meters

• Crown: Signed, push / pull                                                                                                        

• Bezels: 60 Minute bezel, ceramic / GMT bezel, stainless steel

• Straps: Vintage cognac leather, two piece with signed buckle and steel rivets. Now shipping with an additional strap, the NDC (while supplies last).

 
And one last little nice bit, Hemel is directing a portion of the proceeds to charitable organizations:

Indicate at checkout which non-profit organization you'd like a 5% portion of your purchase proceeds to go to: Toys For Tots, Wounded Warriors or the Bob Woodruff Foundation.

A new meca-quartz chronograph from Techné

Courtesy of Techne

Having collected watches for 15 years, Switzerland-based Franck J. decided to take a leap of faith in 2009 and have his own ideas manufactured.

Trained in industrial design, watchmaking and goldsmithing, he is familiar with well built objects that cleverly mix materials and textures.  The brand “Techné” sprang from the ancient Greek word “texni” which describes the Arts and Crafts.


Like his earlier collections, the new SparrowHawk II is a tool watch inspired by Aviation instruments. Easy to use and water-resistant to 100 meter, the 41 millimetre-wide timepiece comes with night-visible markings and a matte black dial without glare.  Two styles are currently available:
brushed steel on steel bracelet, or cockpit black on canvas strap.  Versions on rubber and leather straps are planned for March 2012.

Courtesy of Techné

The Sparrowhawk II uses a novelty energy-efficient quartz mechanism developed by Seiko Instruments. Running with half of the energy requirement, it can reset at the touch of a finger.  As a consequence, this “stopwatch on a diet” can sweep 1/5th of a second and maintain a normal battery life.


Although being a micro-brand, Techné pays close attention to sustainability: all carbon emissions are compensated for and recycled paper is used for stationery and packaging. Furthermore, frequent donations to NGO’s help moving labour rights forward in Asia, where the timepieces are assembled.

The watches can be purchased on the official TechneWatches.BIZ store, or through selected partners listed at TechneWatches.COM