The Horizon GEN DLC

From Minase -

Courtesy of Minase

This is the latest offering from one of my all-time favorite watch brands. Right about now in Akita-ken, I suspect the locals are shoveling the snow off of their roofs, and enjoying massive amounts of chanko nabe -

Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide info-web

But all that shoveling and eating hasn't stopped the folks at Minase from putting together something extra special!

Courtesy of Minase

The case is of stainless steel with a black DLC finish. It measures 38 x 51 mm, and is 12 mm thick. It weighs in at 160 grams.

Under the hood is the ETA 2892A2, with a customized rotor. The functions are hours, minutes, seconds, and date.

This is a limited series of 25 pieces and is available to order now through Minase International. It is priced very fairly at CHF 4'700.

Here are all the pertinents, straight from the source -

Case:

Stainless steel 316L plated with black DLC. 

Dimensions - 38 x 51 mm. Thickness : 12,0 mm. 160 g.

Dual spherical box type sapphire crystal (non reflective coating), see-through case back. 

Water resistant up to 50 meters (5 Bar).

Movement:

Swiss ETA based components (2892A2) high end execution with hand-finished surfaces with perlage, bridges and main plate in black “or”. Blue screws. Bridges with diamond polished bevels. Customized Minase rotor. ETACHRON regulator system. MPS lubrication-free bearings. Very high precision TOP range execution. 50 hours’ power reserve. 21 Jewels. Frequency 28’800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)

Dial:

Steel with PVD cover in Black, Blue or Grey, polished steel indexes

Functions:

Hours, minutes and central second hands. Date at 3.

Hands:

Polished, luminous material on hours’ and minutes’ hands.

Strap and Buckle:

Rubber (EPDM) strap with stainless steel deployment clasp and side pushers.

A Darker Shade of Laureato

From Girard-Perregaux -

Courtesy of Girard Perregaux

Here are the pertinents -

Laureato 42 mm Ceramic

Technical specifications

Case

Material: black ceramic

Diameter: 42.00 mm

Thickness: 10.90 mm

Crystal: glare proofed sapphire

Case back: smoky sapphire

Dial: black with “Clou de Paris” hobnail motif

Hands:  baton-type, enhanced with luminescent material

Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM, 10 bar)

Movement

Reference: GP01800-0025, mechanical self-winding

Diameter: 30.00 mm (13’’’) 

Thickness: 3.97 mm

Frequency: 28,800 vph. (4 Hz)

Number of components: 191

Jewels: 28

Power reserve: 54 hours

Functions: hours, minutes, center seconds, date

Bracelet

Black ceramic, polished and satin-brushed finishing, ceramic triple-blade folding clasp

Reference 81010-32-631-32A

Wrapping up the Minuteman Darby DLC

So once again a week has come and gone here at Tempus Fugit and with it, sadly, the Minuteman DLC Darby will be winging it's way back to it's home at Minuteman Watches.

Minuteman is a young and growing micro-brand assembling their watches in the US.  But more than that, they are also endeavoring to do good, which is something we here at Tempus Fugit hold in very high regard:

25% of the profit from our net annual sales of  Minuteman products goes to charities assisting veterans & their Families.
  
Which seems like a pretty good deal!
 

With the Darby DLC, the folks at Minuteman have managed to do something that has evaded the abilities of several of the big dogs in Switzerland (Eterna and Longines spring to mind).  They have created a watch that is both emblematic of an era, as well as current and useful to today.  Military style watches are (apparently) a very tough nut to crack because there are seemingly limitless numbers of offerings from both the mighty and the micro brand, but pretty much nobody is ever capable of getting it really even close to right.  All too often, part of an indice is chopped out to accommodate a date window, or a desire to stamp the words "Military" or "Vintage" or "Combat" on the dial.  To put it simply, saying it doesn't make it so.

The Darby DLC does as advertised - hours, minutes, seconds and date in an easy to read format.  The case is solid without being cumbersome, the dial and indices are clear.  And for once, a date that can actually be read without destroying the balance of the watche's dial. 

The case is of stainless steel, with a DLC finish.  The overall feel of the case is smooth and clean, no rough or jagged bits.  The case itself measures a reasonable 42 mm in diameter without the crown.  

The crown screws down to help ensure the Darby's water resistance.  It is warranted to 200 meters, but needless to say it held up fine in the deep end of the YMCA pool as well.  The crown functions smoothly and setting and hand-winding from a dead stop was easy.

The case back is stainless steel.  It bears the hallmark of Minuteman Watches and has a nice texture and depth of finish. 

The model I tested came with a green NATO style strap, with black hardware.  A very fitting and (if I can say this) "ruggedly elegant" touch.  Unlike many watches shipping with NATO straps, this one was actually well-matched in terms of size and thickness of the strap.  It was a very, very pleasant experience to wear, which is should be the norm, not the exception, so full marks to Minuteman.

The movement is the Miyota 9015.  As has been my experience with other Miyota equipped models, the time keeping was stunningly good, and continues to help push the debate as to whether or not a Swiss movement (especially with the failure rates of some) should continue to be thought of as the top shelf.  More and more start up Swiss brands are moving to Miyota, and that should really tell the buying public something.  And it's not just about price.  The time keeping was bang-on.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Minuteman:

• Proudly assembled in the USA by Minuteman Watch Co.
• Stainless Steel case with black DLC finish
• Double domed sapphire crystal.
• Clear type A/R coating on the inside of the crystal.
• 42mm width without crown.
• Screw down crown.
• 200 meter water resistant.
• Military style Zulu/Nato watch strap
• Miyota 9015 automatic mechanical movement.
• Movement Accuracy -10~+30 seconds/day
• Luminous hands and dial.

And I think I will wrap this up with a quick story.  My day job finds me working as an advisor/counselor helping people get ready to either attend college or enter/reenter the workforce.  I was working with a family with their daughter's financial aid and the father was talking about his experience in the Marines.  And here's the funny part, he looked at me and said: 
"But you know all about that James."   
my response being:
"Sorry?"
"Well, you know what it's like in the service". 
"How do you mean?"
"C'mon, that's a military issue watch.  What branch were you in?" 

Seven Days with the Minuteman Darby DLC

Starts now.

Introducing Pinion!

So yesterday's opening of Salon QP also ushered in a new watch company from England - Pinion!

Courtesy of Pinion

This is the Axis - available in three versions.  Including Black DLC,

Courtesy of Pinion

Bronze (above) and stainless steel (below).

Courtesy of Pinion

Here is the info, straight from Pinion -

The watch, which is designed in England is influenced by the sharp designs of early 20th century military timepieces and instruments. The pure function of timekeeping with the Axis is straightforward due to the highly legible dial and coated sapphire crystal allowing clear vision of the time and date from all angles and lighting conditions.

Housed in a versatile 42mm steel case which is made from a single solid block of stainless steel and water resistant to 100 metres, the Axis is extremely robust. This structural integrity also employs shock resistance for the movement, making it perfect for multipurpose wear.

At the heart of every Pinion Axis is a highly dependable Swiss made automatic movement (ETA 2824-2) which is renowned for it’s reliability and accuracy having been used by fine watchmakers worldwide for many years. With 8 beats per second (28,800 per hour) the movement allows for high accuracy and when fully wound has a power reserve of 40 hours. The power is retained by wearing the watch, as subtle wrist movements power a winding rotor to keep the watch fully wound.

Completing the Axis, is a leather strap which is hand stitched and made from the finest hides and fastened to the wrist with a Pinion buckle.

The Pinion Axis has been designed and manufactured to the highest of standards using bespoke made Swiss and English parts. Any case treatment such as DLC coating and final finishing is conducted in England, prior to the watches being assembled and tested here by our highly experienced watchmakers.
Every Pinion Axis will be presented in a English made leather wallet. This will house the watch, manual, warranty card and each watch will be covered by an international 2 year manufacturers warranty.

PRICING AND AVAILABILITY
The following prices show UK retail (inc. VAT) and example US Dollars.
Axis Steel: £1,950 / $2,800 Axis Black: £2,150 / $3,000 Axis Bronze: £2,350 / $3,300
The watches will be available to order and buy from December, through Pinion direct or selected retailers and will be built and ready to ship in January 2014.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Movement: Self winding automatic Swiss movement ETA 2824-2, 25 jewels, power reserve 38
hours, 28,800bph, Pinion decorated rotor. Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case: Stainless steel with brushed finish / Stainless steel with DLC coating / Bronze with brushed finish 42mm in diameter (excluding crown) strap lug width 22mm. Steel engraved screw down caseback with watch serial number engraving.Steel crown at 3H.
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Dial: Satin black dial / Military green dial with numerals and indexes covered with Swiss
Superluminova® coating.
Hands: Steel hands with Swiss Superluminova® coating.
Water resistance: 10ATM (100 metres)
Strap: Hand made 22mm leather strap tapering to 20mm with a stainless steel pin buckle. 
Packaging: Leather wallet (Handmade in England)


ABOUT PINION

Founded in 2013 and based in South Oxfordshire, England, Pinion is a watch company that produces fine watches which are designed, finished, assembled and tested in the UK to the highest of standards.
The debut collection, called the ‘Pinion Axis’ is a timeless watch design presented in three variants: Steel, Black and Bronze. The 42mm timepiece has been designed to evoke: Simplicity, high legibility and hard-wearing robustness for daily and exceptional uses.

Pinion Watch Company is the vision and creation of experienced designer, Piers Berry. With many years in graphics and digital media, Piers’ love for watches and mechanical instruments inspired him to design his own watch and in doing so, created the Pinion Axis.

Not content with just the watch design, every aspect of Pinion is designed and produced by Piers. From the straps and packaging through to the watch photography and digital media, everything is painstakingly created by Piers to ensure his original vision is to exacting standards and the finest of quality.

The name 'Pinion' originates from the small but significant gear wheels, that sit at the very heart of every mechanical timepiece and are often used to drive the more visible parts like the hands in a watch. Being a small independent watch company, Pinion passionately embodies watchmaking from the heart.

THE MOTION WORKS
The Motion Works is the name for Pinion’s watch assembly and service centre which is based in England. Our watchmakers are qualified BHI (British Horology Institute) members and carrying many years of experience and knowledge, providing excellent technical assistance and support for our watches.
When making a Pinion watch, each one is first assembled with precision and care. Once complete, the watches are regulated and adjusted for timekeeping accuracy before being pressure tested for water resistance.
Every Pinion watch is supported by an international two year warranty. 

Linde Werdelin Hard Grey DLC

This is the Linde Werdelin Hard Grey DLC – exclusively available at Exquisite Timepieces in Naples, Florida 

Exquisite Timepieces