Into Overtime with the H992 x Astro

 

Courtesy of H992

Tempus Fugit = Time Flies.  And it goes without saying that time flies when you're having fun, but all good things must, inevitably, come to an end. Such is my time with the H992 x Astro, a limited edition of 52 pieces.

Now I suspect for many readers, particularly those outside of a few key countries where H992 has established a beachhead, your first question might be: 

"Who, or what is H992?"

And that is more than a fair question as they are a small (but mighty) brand based in La Chaux-de-Fonds. You might remember La Chaux-de-Fonds from such notable figures as Le Corbusier, and internationally renowned brands like Girard-Perregaux, Corum, Tag Heuer, and even that darling of independent watch fans - ochs und junior. It is also home to the MIH, so needless to say, they speak watches there ; )

I got to spend a fair amount of time speaking with one of the H992 team at Time To Watches in Geneva this past April. I was struck by two things - the design and the pricing. H992 was kind enough to forward me the H992 x Astro to review. It is, as far as I can tell based on the H1 collection.

The packaging chosen by H992 is exactly in line with what I believe in - less waste, more fun!

The box itself is cardboard, nice squishy pillow for the watch to rest on, warranty cards and the COSC certificate.... (insert sound of record player suddenly stopping here) wait a minute! A certified chronometer for a watch that retails for 1,592 CHF?!? Yes. And the thing about H992 is that they take it even further - a SW260-1 automatic, COSC certified movement is "standard" even for the H1 collection that retails for 992 CHF! And in many ways, this makes sense as another notable resident of La Chaux-de-Fonds is the COSC itself ; )

And this is part and parcel to the ethos of H992. In their own words, the H can stand for a few things. 1 is the "H" grid of streets in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Having visited several times while working on mandate (consulting gigs) with a few of the brands there, I can attest that this is a real thing, not just folklore. As you may not know, La Chaux-de-Fonds suffered a horrific fire in 1794. When it was "rebuilt" it was laid out in a way to best enable watch making. These special grids maximized natural light, improved efficiency of transport, and most curiously (at least in my opinion) probably birthed the concept of the "live/work" spaces. If you walk through the city (particularly on the main station entry side), you will come across many beautiful homes that at one time had watch making activities going on in part of the house, with the family living in other sections.

The other part of the name is a nod to La Chaux-de-Fonds "place" in the world, specifically being 992 meters above sea level.

But back to the matter at hand - what did I think of the H992 x Astro?

Spoiler alert - I loved this watch! 

There are two key criteria I have for whether or not I like a watch. 

1. Is it nice to look at?

2. Is it comfortable to wear?

Well, the H992 x Astro scores 10/10 on the Henki Scale for both. Anyone who knows me, knows I am a bit goofy for color. Life is too short to live in black and white. With that said, I also realize that while I am a pistachio ice cream sort of guy, there are lots of folks out there who want vanilla or chocolate - and the good news is that H992 still has you covered with other options in the H1 collection if you are not as daring as me.

Beyond the colors, the dial is effectively a work of art. Specifically a work by Astro. 

And this is not your ordinary "painting on a dial". This is an elaborate, labyrinth of color and shape. You can't really pin it down as anything other that truly original.

The other fun part is that the dial will change and morph depending on the light - almost like a mood ring for the wrist ; )

Now while I am all about the looks for the most part, there are a few things that others might critique. Specifically the date window and the sub second. The date window pretty much blends into the dial, and the sub second hand while visible does not benefit from a defined scale or subdial as the other H1 pieces do. And part of me says fair enough. But then again, I think that there are certain things that you embrace when you choose to wear a watch like this. It reminds me of Jean-Claude Biver's all black Hublot Big Bang. The H992 is far more legible, but you get that same feeling - which for me is visceral (in a good way).

The H992 x Astro has proven to be supremely comfortable. The case is of stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter. 

Not a rough edge to be found anywhere. And at 42 mm it sits very nicely on the wrist, or at least my wrist -

The bezel has 12 marks that align perfectly with the 12 hour indices on the dial.

The strap is integrated and of rubber. It is quite comfortable, and unlike many rubber straps out there did not give the "slimy" feeling you sometimes get from a rubber strap in warm weather.

It is secured with a tactile, yet very comfortable buckle.

So we've got the look, and the feel. But what about the performance?

Under the hood is the previously mentioned Sellita SW260-1 with COSC certification. During the week the H992 x Astro kept very good time with the power reserve true to its advertising.

So overall - I am a big fan. Apart from the dial design (which I really liked), it is a very good looking, sporty watch. The case design is intriguing without being jarring, and although I had mixed feelings about the indices on the bezel, I really grew to appreciate them.

Some things that might put others off:

1. Case design - if you have a set idea of what a case should look like (read perfectly round) then this might not be for you.

2. The integrated strap - I love it, but I realize that it's not for everyone. More importantly, you will be best served reaching out to H992 for a replacement strap rather than going secondary market.

3. The date window - as I mentioned, it sort of blends into the dial itself. While I really find this intriguing, if an absolute clear view of the date is going to be a deal breaker for you, I would recommend a different version of the H1.

Would I buy it - Hell yes!

Here are the pertinents:

Price: CHF 1'592.00

Movement
SW260-1 automatic, COSC certified

Case
Black PVD steel, Steel

Case diameter
42mm

Case thickness
10.1mm

Dial
Astro

Strap
Rubber

Water resistance
10 ATM 100 meters

Glass
Sapphire, double anti-reflective treatment on the inside AR43, thickness 1.40mm

Limited edition
52

H992 - and the H992 × Astro

It seems that there is always something new to be discovered. And such is the case of H992. 

I first clapped eyes on the H992 collections last year in Geneva. This past year I got to spend more time with Maurizio Milani, who handles sales for the brand.

And in that time, I also got to spend more time with the various collections, and well... let's just say I might be raiding my piggy-bank yet again!

           

This is the H992 × Astro, and I am beguiled.

The case is of stainless steel, and measures 42 mm in diameter. The movement is Sellita's SW260-1, but with a COSC upgrade! 

     

So why is that such a big deal? I mean, plenty of COSC watches out there. But at this price point?

CHF 1'592.00?!?

This is really something special.

Okay, but beyond the tech niceties, I gotta be honest, I am seriously crushing on the dial.

Courtesy of H992

The dial is courtesy of Astro, a world-renowned artist known for his murals and street art.

If you are as obsessed as I am, here are the pertinents:



MOVEMENT:
SW260-1 automatic, COSC certified

CASE:
Black PVD steel,  or Steel

Case diameter
42mm

Case thickness
10.1mm

DIAL:
Astro

STRAP:
Rubber

Water resistance
10 ATM 100 meters

CRYSTAL:
Sapphire, double anti-reflective treatment on the inside AR43, thickness 1.40mm

LIMITED EDITION:
52

The Transfer Window Has Opened...

At Corum -

Courtesy of Corum

News made its way to the North Shore offices of "the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit" this AM that a swanky building up the hill from downtown La Chaux-de-Fonds is under new ownership. 

Corum will change hands once again under a management buyout, and Citychamp is down to Eterna and Rotary in terms of Swiss brands in its stable.

How this will ultimately play out remains to be seen, but in fairness to everyone concerned, Corum is a brand with a great history and a lot of potential. The buyout involves several (as yet) unnamed Swiss investors and the person taking the helm is Haso Mehmedovic . Mr. Mehmedovic trained as a watch maker in Le Locle, and if my information is correct has spent his entire career at Corum, moving from the technical side to sales.

So we wish Mr. Mehmedovic and his colleagues the very best of success moving forward, and we shall see what develops.

The Countdown to Election Day - The Cricket and the President of the United States Part 1

As we race towards election day here in the lower 48, it seemed as good a time as any to air out some actual facts about the Vulcain Cricket and the President of the United States -

The Greatest Marketing Campaign That Never Was (a marketing campaign) - Part 1

For the past 20 plus years, I have been writing about Vulcain, and more specifically the Vulcain Cricket and its relationship to various US Presidents. And what I've learned along the way is that there is a dearth of actual, factual information on how so many US Presidents (Truman, Eisenhower, Johnson and Nixon) came to be Vulcain Cricket owners. Several of my more well-heeled colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate (and to some extent, yours truly as well) have sustained a fairly flawed belief that the Vulcain watch company had conceived of, and launched a marketing campaign to present a watch to each US Presidents. And after a visit to Vulcain HQ and a perusal of what documentation actually exists, it became quite clear to me that I needed a better source...

Well, all I can say is that it's good to have friends! A few calls were made, and Michel Ditisheim invited me to come over and talk about the Cricket, the Presidents, his friendship with the Paajanen family, and even a bit about life.

For those of you just turning in, Michel Ditisheim is perhaps the last, best link to the original Vulcain, the "middle" Vulcain and today's Vulcain. His father was the inventor of the original Cricket. Michel worked with the Paajanen family to help present Vulcain Cricket watches to former US Presidents in the 1990s and 2000s, and he was instrumental in shepherding Vulcain through the rocky quartz crisis and ultimately to its reemergence with new owners in Le Locle earlier this century. His father, Robert Ditisheim, was not unlike the guy who said "What if we slice the bread, before we sell it?" In other words, when he created the Vulcain Cricket, he brought to reality something many people wanted - they just didn't know it yet!

"It was a sensation!"  - Michel Ditisheim.

So what is agreed upon by everyone? The very first Vulcain Cricket to be presented to a sitting US President was given to Harry Truman by the White House Press Corps. It was not a gift from Vulcain. When I asked Mr. Ditisheim why they chose the Vulcain Cricket, his answer was elegantly succinct - "It was a sensation!"

It is important to understand that at the time it was introduced, the Cricket represented something that had not been seen before. A wrist watch with an alarm. What was often referred to as a "secretary on the wrist".  It's interesting that many of us think of alarm watches as useful for waking us up. But for you younger readers out there, back when dinosaurs roamed the earth, and we typed out our correspondence with an Olivetti Lettera 22 -

Courtesy of Wikipedia

We did not receive Google Reminders on our cell phones. Owners of alarm watches would use them frequently during the day to set the alarm for meeting reminders, etc.

Yes, the Vulcain Cricket was indeed a sensation. So it made sense that the press corps would present such a watch to President Truman. But then the history gets murkier. 

So stay tuned, we're going to shed some much needed light!

The Transfer Window Opens - Welcome to Crazy Town

Well for those who were on the edge of their pool floats or chaise lounges, fear not! The transfer window is apparently still open and though this is more fish-wrap than news at this point, let's get caught up, shall we?

News was strategically placed with that bastion of impartial reporting Hodinkee (oops, coffee just shot out of my nose and I need to take break to wipe the screen) that "Arnault, the even younger" had a case of the fidgets and hiked up his leg to more firmly "mark" his territory around the halls of LVMH's watch division. Long story short? Former favorite of God (JC Biver) Ricardo Guadalupe (you may remember him from such jobs as "CEO of Hublot") has either decided, or been asked, to sling his hook and take it on the arches. Now the official word is that he will be assuming the position of "Honorary President" of Hublot, which essentially means he won't be required to go to board meetings and he can play out his contract. He is only 59, so I tend to doubt that this will be his last stop, but you never know.

I have no doubt this suits junior just fine as Guadalupe was the last of Biver's palace guards, and know the only thing he is running is Jack and shit, and Jack just left town.

But then the other intriguing turn - fresh off of a truly stunning few months at Tag Heuer (yes, that was sarcasm) Julian Tornare leaves La Chaux-de-Fonds in the rearview as he heads south to Geneva to lead product placement firm Hublot. 

Rumor has it they make watches as well ;)

Now the other funny bit in all of this is reading the commentary from some of my more well-heeled colleagues in Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estate claiming that Mr. G had spent too much time and focus on brand partnerships and famous "chums". It is clear that they slept through the Biver years at Hublot ; ) 

This is made even funnier when notable conspiracy theorist and pro football player Aaron Rogers was picked to "Reach His Star" (still the worst tagline ever) on behalf of Zenith. So look for more NFL quarterbacks to be joining the Hublot stable now that Tornare can indulge in fantasy football picks with a real budget to throw at them.

But then perhaps the goofiest turn of events came from independent brand Audemars Piguet. You might have heard of them, old family owned independent brand with one and a half product collections? It would seem that although the Royal Oak continues to be hotter than Satan's jockstrap, Hodinkee's personally anointed sage on all things horology and pop music has been tipped to be a special envoy. So needless to say, Hodinkee will now be able to rhapsodize about which version of the Royal Oak best sets off a tattoo sleeve with leather jacket sleeve zhuzhed. Give me strength...

Here is the info, straight from AP -

A unique collaboration.
We are thrilled to announce that we have appointed the iconic American singer, guitarist, and watch collector, John Mayer, as our “creative conduit”.
In this unique role, John Mayer will not only act as a channel of creativity, pushing the brand to explore new horizons and elevate our technical, aesthetic, and ergonomic developments, but he will also serve as an important translator between Audemars Piguet and watch enthusiasts worldwide. His collector’s eye and deep insight will guide us in innovating to meet the ever-evolving needs and expectations of our clients.

Okay, I have absolutely zero idea what a "creative conduit" is, but this new "job" for Mr. M truly begs credulity. I mean, unless he has some idea to save the 1/2 product family the ill-fated Code 11.59, 'cause that is one turd that seems to refuse to be flushed....

Do you mean to tell me that Audemars Piguet, with more cash than some small third-world GNPs, and with 1 of their 1.5 product families having one of the most sought after watches of all time needs a man notable for these bon mots which he dropped in an interview with noted watch collector enthusiast magazine, Playboy -

“My d–k is sort of like a white supremacist,” Mayer went on. “I’ve got a Benetton heart and a f—in David Duke cock. I’m going to start dating separately from my d–k.”

Well, I guess AP knows what their doing...

Let's hope Mr. Mayer keeps "little David Duke" in his pants, it's Le Brassus, not Las Vegas.

The Transfer Window has Opened

At Schwarz Etienne -

News reached the North Shore HQ of Henki Time earlier this AM that Schwarz Etienne not only had a swanky new (used) HQ, but also had appointed a new Managing Director - Florian Brossard. While I am not familiar with Mr. Brossard myself, I fired up the "Google Machine" and discovered that he had worked at Montblanc back in the earlier part of this century, but am not sure what he has been up to lately. 

I would assume that after a year without Mauro Ergemini at the helm (at least if his LinkedIn is to be believed) Mr. Brossard will fill that gap. I have met Mr. Egermini in BaselWorld at the "new and improved" Schwarz Etienne launch (back when Hall 2 was still a thing). Mr. Egermini was also involved in the white label program which seemed to have traveled under a few different flags - e2o innovations, TMH (Tradition Mécanique Horlogère), and La Division du Temps.

Now swimming somewhere in all of this holding company soup is Ming (the less said about their approach to after sales customer service, the better) which is where Mr. Egermini now finds himself as the head of their Swiss operations. 

For those of you old enough to remember, it's not unlike the 70s American sitcom - SOAP.

Now back to the new facility. I have actually walked past it twice on my way to visit Graham's former shared facilities (Le Joux Perret & Arnold & Sons). A little travel tip from your old pal Henki - it is also next to a fairly large home improvement center, department store and a hypermarket that does sell quite tasty ready to eat hot sandwiches. If it is the same building that I think it is, I applaud the money folks at Schwarz Etienne for rehabbing the building. On a personal note, and it might just have been my impression walking past it on a rainy October afternoon, it looked very out of place amongst the suburban sprawl, so maybe this second life will be a positive thing.

At any rate, we wish Mr. Brossard bon chance in his new role.

When The Glass Is Not Even Half-Full, But Broken

It's time for the semi-annual cut the shit episode here at Henki Time. Having spent the better part of the last week in the real capital of Swiss watch making (that would be Biel/Bienne, Le Locle, La Chaux-de-Fonds and the surrounding areas), let's just say that the hot air being pumped out of Geneva, Zurich and other "fancier" places is just that.

There are many tell-tale signs, but the most obvious are the rumors (now growing louder and more frequent) about layoffs in the Jura and surrounding area. This will, of course, have zero impact on the shot-callers and big dogs, but most likely the watch makers and roll players who did as instructed. While the big dogs drop off their suits for a quick cleaning before the Kabuki theatre that is Watches and Wondering  the realities of poor decision making and poorer oversight continue to haunt the industry as a whole. But not to worry, the press releases will certainly only reflect triumph!

But what Gregory Pons of Business Montres refers to as "Musical Chairs" is no game to take lightly. There are a lot of people depending on each other to make everything work out. More than a few suppliers are delivering even later than usual. This then impacts supply deliveries, watch assemblies and ultimately sales. But it is highly unlikely that any big bosses are going anywhere. No, where the real pain is being felt is most likely going to be the actual people who make the actual watches that you might, gentle reader, actually buy ; ) 

Think I'm full of it? Well, let's examine what was once referred to as "trickle-down" economics. The idea was that the bounty enjoyed at the top will overflow and trickle down. Let's start with the carrion crows of Watch Town - the Fourth and Fifth Estates. For many of my brothers and sisters out their hustling for whatever might not be gobbled up by the bigger outlets, times are looking pretty tough. And even the mighty are feeling the pinch of uncertainty. After just a month or so on the masthead of a certain media outlet, the Chief Operating Officer who appeared in January is no longer there. As is often the case at this certain media outlet, it is impossible to really know the comings and goings as they are rarely clearly articulated. But it is clear that the Masthead has shrunk considerably in the recent years, as has the amount of coverage.

Now it is also interesting to consider that press invites for the show formerly known as the SIHH (Watches and Wonders) are still handed out to exactly the same cast of characters from the same outlets with - you guessed it, the same impact. Now I know that this is going to sound crazy, but isn't the idea of marketing to spread the word about your product BEYOND its already existing customer / enthusiast base?

But that certain media outelt and the other big dogs need not worry, the same contortions will still be performed by the same brands to ensure that media outlets that cover them once or twice a year will have multiple invitations (which in turn ensures that other outlets will be excluded). Say what you want about BaselWorld, it was a democratic meritocracy. Anyone who was willing to get themselves there would be able to get appointments with brands. But as someone who has been referred to as notable, but not welcome at SIHH / Watches And Wonders, I continue to be astonished by the merry-go-round that is media relations in Watch Town.

And in truth, the approach to media relations is no different than Watch Town's approach to most everything else. 

So what? What's the point? In fairness, I am not saying anything here that I haven't been saying for years. And maybe that is exactly the point! I think that probably, deep down? Watch Town's residents don't really want anything to change. 

Despite impassioned mini speeches no doubt fueled by multiple servings of ardent social lubricants, the same mistakes will continue to be made, because ultimately? Change is probably a bit too scary.

I took a moment this past Thursday to reflect on the nearly 14 years I've spent covering the comings and goings of Watch Town at Caffe Specttacolo in front of the Biel/Bienne station waiting for my train back to Zurich airport. And I must say that I thought about it all and laughed a bit, raising more than one eyebrow from my fellow cafe guests.  Because it occurred to me, that despite its flaws and frustrations, I do love this world that is Watch Town ; )

New Release: ochs und junior settimana classic black

Note: Our contributor and former Managing Editor, James Henderson, has taken on a consulting role with Ochs und Junior. He is not involved in any Tempus Fugit activity related to brands with which consults, including this article.

Following the launch of its Settimana Classic White in November 2021, innovative Swiss brand ochs und junior is expanding its non-customizable offerings with the Settimana Classic Black. 

Courtesy of ochs und junior

Like it’s white counterpart, the Settimana Classic Black features a a 7-day module developed by Ludwig Oechslin. On the dial, the days of the week are displayed in a minimalist fashion by a black dot seen through one of seven apertures—one for each day of the week  and the end of the week, the dot quickly traces a longer arc, returning to the one o’clock Monday aperture  (the watch below shows Wednesday).

Courtesy of ochs und junior

The watch features the same stark case design seen on all the brand’s models, here rendered in grade 5 titanium. It will be available in both 40mm and 36mm. You’ll have the option of either baton markers or Arabic numerals in either case size.

Courtesy of ochs und junior

While ochs und junior is known for the ability to customize a model ad infinitum, the ochs und junior Settimana Classic Black is another addition to the brand’s lineup of models with set designs; no customization is available. What you get is a watch with clear ochs und junior DNA: aggressive in its simplicity with a novel weekday module. I’d venture a guess that this will be an even better seller than the white option. The Settimana Classic Black will be offered at CHF 2,600 (CHF 2,400 excluding VAT) with a lead time of 8-12 weeks. You can learn more here. 

The Presidents And Vulcain - One For The Gipper

Just over 33 years since the last known presentation of a Vulcain Cricket to a US President past, present, or future (to Richard Nixon by the National Association of Watch and Clock Makers in 1955), Ronald Reagan visited Helsinki, Finland on his way to one final summit meeting in Moscow with the Soviet leader who was first presented with a Cricket directly from the brand just one year prior - Mikhail Sergeyevich Gorbachev.

And history (at least in terms of watch collecting) was about to be made. Several US Presidents had received or owned Vulcain Crickets up to this point. But insofar as the Vulcain company records indicate, not to mention the personal recollections of Michel Ditisheim, the company had never presented a Vulcain Cricket to a US President (sitting, past or future) up to this point.

Unbeknownst to most everyone, a family jeweler in Helsinki, Finland had been working on a special surprise for future US Presidents. What would later prove to be one of the most impressive "soft power" marketing strategies in the watch business, really started out as a sincere and heartfelt thank you.

Jouko Paajanen was the owner of that family jewelry store. But he was not originally from Helsinki. His family had lived fairly close to the Finland/Soviet border when the Winter War saw a young Jouko and his family flee their homes to escape an advancing Soviet army. His son Keijo remembered it this way -

"As many watch historians and fans know, there was in the past a tradition of presenting a Vulcain Cricket to US Presidents. We wanted the great story to continue and also because our family has always wanted to have good relations with the USA. My father and his family escaped from advancing Russians (Soviets) in 1939."

At some point in the 1980s (and despite my asking everyone involved, nobody remembers exactly when), Jouko and Keijo met with Michel Ditisheim in Switzerland, with the idea of ordering a collection of Vulcain Crickets to present to US Presidents visiting Helsinki. There was but one small problem - the Vulcain company was dormant. But the Cricket was still alive, and chirping - as the Thommen Revue Cricket.

Courtesy of Paajanen Jewelers

This was, essentially, the same watch but under a new livery. So a deal was struck, and Mr. Ditisheim agreed to create a special series of Crickets, but with a dial and case back indicating Vulcain. This made sense for everyone involved. The Paajanens had been loyal customers of Vulcain, and later of Revue Thommen. More than a business relationship, there was a genuine friendship between the two families.

The Paajanens ordered 100 pieces, in stainless steel, and stainless steel with gold plating. The gold plated models would be presented to Presidential visitors, and the balance would be sold exclusively by the Paajanens in their store. And while I have stated in the past that this was solely the effort of idea of the Paajanen, I have learned that in fact that while the Paajanen's did indeed order and pay for 100 pieces, none of it would have been possible without the willingness of Michel Ditisheim to partner with them on a project that would not truly benefit him or Revue Thommen as the watches bore the name Vulcain on the dial and case backs, and were only sold in Helsinki, Finland. But having spent some time with Mr. Ditisheim, I have come to learn that at heart, he is a bit of a romantic. And having spent some time in La Chaux-de-Fonds as well as the new Vulcain HQ in Le Locle, it is abundantly clear that there would be no Vulcain as it is today without the contributions made by the Ditisheims, and Michel Ditisheim in particular.

But back to 1988 -

A customer of the Paajanen's had connections of some sort at the US embassy, and through protracted arrangements, it was agreed that a Vulcain Cricket would be delivered. But nothing is ever that simple. The watch was delivered to the embassy a full week in advance, but it remained unknown up until the very last minute as to whether or not the watch would find its way to President Reagan when he visited. 

Spoiler Alert -

Courtesy of the Paajanen Family

And so, nearly 4 decades later, the Cricket was once again alive and well and chirping on Pennsylvania Avenue.

Tune in next time, when the Cricket hops to the wrist of a high school kid who instead of heading to the Ivy League, opted to enlist as a Naval Aviator following the attack on Pearl Harbor.

The Presidents And Vulcain - The Birth of a New Tradition

"As many watch historians and fans know, there was in the past a tradition of presenting a Vulcain Cricket to US Presidents. We wanted the great story to continue and also because our family has always wanted to have good relations with the USA. My father and his family escaped from advancing Russians (Soviets) in 1939."

Keijo Paajanen - 2012

Photo credit HEIKKI SAVOLAINEN 1997

You couldn't really call it fate, it seemingly had all of the earmarks of a grand marketing plan.

But as Branch Rickey once famously opined - "Luck is the residue of design". The next chapter of the Cricket and Presidents would be written by two families - one in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland the other in Helsinki, Finland. I have come to think of the late 80s, 90s and early 00s as the Ditisheim/ Paajanen era. 

Up until 1988, the partnership between the Vulcain Cricket and the Presidents of the United States was on more than one occasion the culmination of a wonderful set of coincidences. Yes, Vulcain was wise enough to capitalize on the fact that several US Presidents wore a Vulcain Cricket through some great advertising back in the 50s, but no watch had ever been presented to a President (sitting, future or former) by Vulcain. Although Michel Ditisheim had sent a Cricket addressed to the attention of Mikhail Gorbachev (care of the Kremlin) back in 1987, it remained unknown to him (Ditisheim) whether or not the watch had indeed arrived and been accepted by Gorbachev. And not unlike when peanut butter met jelly, fate would bring two families together who would actually create the tradition that has been misunderstood for so long by so many.

So I turn back to a conversation that I had with Keijo Paajanen back in 2012. Keijo explained that through a meeting he and his father had with Michel Ditisheim in Switzerland, the idea to manufacture and present a new  version of the Vulcain Cricket was born. At that time (the late 1980s) Vulcain had essentially gone dormant, and Revue Thommen was manufacturing and marketing a Cricket alarm watch of its own. 

This was at least in part due to the fact that Michel Ditisheim, the son of the Cricket's creator, was then Director of MSR (Montres Suisse Reunion) and a share-holder of Revue Thommen. And therefore the Vulcain Crickets that were produced in this era bore the Revue Thommen logo on the crown and buckle of those presented to the Presidents and sold to the general public by the Paajanens.

At the time, the Paajanens also carried the Revue Thommen Cricket, but along with Mr. Ditisheim they felt that the Vulcain name should make a comeback and grace the dial of the Cricket that would be presented to visiting Presidents as well as sold (exclusively) to customers in Helsinki, Finland. The Paajanens ordered 100 new Vulcain Crickets, and the die was cast.

Tune in next time as the Cricket awakes from a long hibernation, takes flight once more and lands on the wrist of a native of Tampico, Illinois who would go on to be the Governor if California.

A Grand Day Out - Visiting Vulcain HQ in Le Locle Part 3

Any story about visiting Vulcain HQ would not be complete without a tour of what may be a pretty phenomenal museum in the not-too-distant future. 

Although there are administrative offices on the second (first) floor, and an atelier on the third (second) floor, there is a magnificent, sun soaked area on the first (ground) floor that will make an amazing, albeit small museum should Vulcain ever decide to create one -

Lots of light, lots of beautiful vitrines, and luckily, lots of treasures to display -

This is the same (not exact, but the same) Vulcain Cricket that was presented to President Barack Obama upon his election, and curious to relate? That was the very first Vulcain Cricket ever given as a gift to a United States President.

But beyond that, lots of fun pieces from the archives -

But the archives run far deeper than the past 50 years. The thing that gets lost in all of the (justifiable) buzz about the Cricket, is that Vulcain was a pretty significant producer even before back in the day -

And this includes some pretty esoteric pieces -

But a visit to the Vulcain HQ will also reveal quite a bit of history - some downright historical, and some relatively recent.

While it is certainly true that watch brands are fond of professional footballers (soccer players) and vice-versa, it is worth noting that back before it was a fashionable (or today, overdone) notion to partner with players or teams, Vulcain was one of the first to dip their toes in the partnership waters -

With Real Madrid (above) and Fiorentina 

(below) -

And continued on into more recent times partnering with a Grinnell College graduate from Chicago who opted to pursue music rather than electrical engineering.  

His name was Herbert.  

While we may always wonder what he might have contributed in terms of inventions and developments to improve our daily lives, I personally feel that the world is a much better place thanks to Head Hunters and Future Shock, and Herbie Hancock made the right career choice -

And a small bit of Henki lore - the idea for the Herbie Hancock partnership was born in a seafood restaurant in Beverly Hills, California back in 2011 with the (then) new distributor of Vulcain. I was having dinner with the new North American distributor Mark Wasserman who had just taken over Vulcain having formerly distributed Oris. Oris as you may know had done a slew of jazz musician partnerships, including one of Herbie Hancock's former bandleaders, the son of an East St. Louis dentist and Julliard drop-out, Miles Davis.

In terms of "Presidential" brand ambassadors, it is important to once again try to clarify some misinformation that has continued to swirl around the Vulcain Cricket and its relationship to the Commander in Chief. The Vulcain Cricket gifted to Barack Obama in 2010 was THE FIRST Vulcain Cricket gifted to a US President (sitting or former). 

In fact, it might surprise you to know that before Vulcain presented a Cricket (the Watch of the Presidents) to a US President, Vulcain actually presented a Cricket to the leader of the Soviet Union!  But that is a story that we will be picking up in the next installment of The Greatest Marketing Campaign That Never Was (a marketing campaign).  

Like all good things, my visit had to come to an end, but my nearly 24 year quest to compile a clear and accurate record of the Vulcain Cricket and its relationship with the Presidents of the United States continues. 

It has taken me from Helsinki Finland, to San Francisco, Basel Switzerland, on to Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, La Chaux-de-Fonds and finally to Le Locle.  But the quest continues, so please stay tuned!

And nearly 24 years later, our story will take us to Finland.

And I will introduce you to a family that with the help of the son of the inventor of the Vulcain Cricket reinvigorated the the legend of the Watch of the Presidents.

Until then - Tempus Fugit!