Saturday, March 23, 2024

When The Glass Is Not Even Half-Full, But Broken

It's time for the semi-annual cut the shit episode here at Henki Time. Having spent the better part of the last week in the real capital of Swiss watch making (that would be Biel/Bienne, Le Locle, La Chaux-de-Fonds and the surrounding areas), let's just say that the hot air being pumped out of Geneva, Zurich and other "fancier" places is just that.

There are many tell-tale signs, but the most obvious are the rumors (now growing louder and more frequent) about layoffs in the Jura and surrounding area. This will, of course, have zero impact on the shot-callers and big dogs, but most likely the watch makers and roll players who did as instructed. While the big dogs drop off their suits for a quick cleaning before the Kabuki theatre that is Watches and Wondering  the realities of poor decision making and poorer oversight continue to haunt the industry as a whole. But not to worry, the press releases will certainly only reflect triumph!

But what Gregory Pons of Business Montres refers to as "Musical Chairs" is no game to take lightly. There are a lot of people depending on each other to make everything work out. More than a few suppliers are delivering even later than usual. This then impacts supply deliveries, watch assemblies and ultimately sales. But it is highly unlikely that any big bosses are going anywhere. No, where the real pain is being felt is most likely going to be the actual people who make the actual watches that you might, gentle reader, actually buy ; ) 

Think I'm full of it? Well, let's examine what was once referred to as "trickle-down" economics. The idea was that the bounty enjoyed at the top will overflow and trickle down. Let's start with the carrion crows of Watch Town - the Fourth and Fifth Estates. For many of my brothers and sisters out their hustling for whatever might not be gobbled up by the bigger outlets, times are looking pretty tough. And even the mighty are feeling the pinch of uncertainty. After just a month or so on the masthead of a certain media outlet, the Chief Operating Officer who appeared in January is no longer there. As is often the case at this certain media outlet, it is impossible to really know the comings and goings as they are rarely clearly articulated. But it is clear that the Masthead has shrunk considerably in the recent years, as has the amount of coverage.

Now it is also interesting to consider that press invites for the show formerly known as the SIHH (Watches and Wonders) are still handed out to exactly the same cast of characters from the same outlets with - you guessed it, the same impact. Now I know that this is going to sound crazy, but isn't the idea of marketing to spread the word about your product BEYOND its already existing customer / enthusiast base?
But that certain media outelt and the other big dogs need not worry, the same contortions will still be performed by the same brands to ensure that media outlets that cover them once or twice a year will have multiple invitations (which in turn ensures that other outlets will be excluded). Say what you want about BaselWorld, it was a democratic meritocracy. Anyone who was willing to get themselves there would be able to get appointments with brands. But as someone who has been referred to as notable, but not welcome at SIHH / Watches And Wonders, I continue to be astonished by the merry-go-round that is media relations in Watch Town.
And in truth, the approach to media relations is no different than Watch Town's approach to most everything else. 

So what? What's the point? In fairness, I am not saying anything here that I haven't been saying for years. And maybe that is exactly the point! I think that probably, deep down? Watch Town's residents don't really want anything to change. 
Despite impassioned mini speeches no doubt fueled by multiple servings of ardent social lubricants, the same mistakes will continue to be made, because ultimately? Change is probably a bit too scary.


I took a moment this past Thursday to reflect on the nearly 14 years I've spent covering the comings and goings of Watch Town at Caffe Specttacolo in front of the Biel/Bienne station waiting for my train back to Zurich airport. And I must say that I thought about it all and laughed a bit, raising more than one eyebrow from my fellow cafe guests.  Because it occurred to me, that despite its flaws and frustrations, I do love this world that is Watch Town ; )

1 comment:

  1. Hi James, your writings are always to the point. There is however an elephant in the room. In the past few years the smart watches have canibalized the watch market. Today Apple is the largest watch manufacturer in the world, moneywise larger than Rolex or Swatch group. This is not a big issue for the top end brands or, for us as watch fans, less a problem for the mechanical watch segment. But the effect on the jewelers, the brands and manufacturers are significant. In Europe jewelers are reluctant to invest in watches, due to the shrinking market and the competition with internet. Mass and medium market brands cannot live on mechnical watches alone. Manufacturers have high fixed costs, so 20 or 30% (or more) reduction has a serious impact. Deliveries from suppliers in Asia are even faster than slower, this meaning that they have much less filled orderbooks. Watches & Wonders is a small party compared to Baselworld. Not only just 50 watchbrands, but also no jewelry & exhibitors around the business. The other small exhibition in the same period is nice for some niche brands but also small (nr. of visitors). Inhorgenta in Munich is growing, but the one Hall with watchbrands (and a Swiss pavilion) was less frequented visited than the 4 Halls with Jewelry and 1 Hall with equipment, materials and services. It seems that the watch sector of Vicenza Oro has grown significantly, but of course these 4 Exhibitions together do not nearly have the same impact as Baselworld. But looking back is useless; the question is how to move forward.....

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