The Cricket And The Presidents - Version 2 Electric Boogaloo!

After a few years of delays, it is here!

Weighing in at just under 100 pages, this new and improved version offers some new insights as well as some previously unseen images.

Watch this space for more information on pricing and availability!

The Countdown to Election Day - The Cricket and the President of the United States Part 1

As we race towards election day here in the lower 48, it seemed as good a time as any to air out some actual facts about the Vulcain Cricket and the President of the United States -

The Greatest Marketing Campaign That Never Was (a marketing campaign) - Part 1

For the past 20 plus years, I have been writing about Vulcain, and more specifically the Vulcain Cricket and its relationship to various US Presidents. And what I've learned along the way is that there is a dearth of actual, factual information on how so many US Presidents (Truman, Eisenhower, Johnson and Nixon) came to be Vulcain Cricket owners. Several of my more well-heeled colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate (and to some extent, yours truly as well) have sustained a fairly flawed belief that the Vulcain watch company had conceived of, and launched a marketing campaign to present a watch to each US Presidents. And after a visit to Vulcain HQ and a perusal of what documentation actually exists, it became quite clear to me that I needed a better source...

Well, all I can say is that it's good to have friends! A few calls were made, and Michel Ditisheim invited me to come over and talk about the Cricket, the Presidents, his friendship with the Paajanen family, and even a bit about life.

For those of you just turning in, Michel Ditisheim is perhaps the last, best link to the original Vulcain, the "middle" Vulcain and today's Vulcain. His father was the inventor of the original Cricket. Michel worked with the Paajanen family to help present Vulcain Cricket watches to former US Presidents in the 1990s and 2000s, and he was instrumental in shepherding Vulcain through the rocky quartz crisis and ultimately to its reemergence with new owners in Le Locle earlier this century. His father, Robert Ditisheim, was not unlike the guy who said "What if we slice the bread, before we sell it?" In other words, when he created the Vulcain Cricket, he brought to reality something many people wanted - they just didn't know it yet!

"It was a sensation!"  - Michel Ditisheim.

So what is agreed upon by everyone? The very first Vulcain Cricket to be presented to a sitting US President was given to Harry Truman by the White House Press Corps. It was not a gift from Vulcain. When I asked Mr. Ditisheim why they chose the Vulcain Cricket, his answer was elegantly succinct - "It was a sensation!"

It is important to understand that at the time it was introduced, the Cricket represented something that had not been seen before. A wrist watch with an alarm. What was often referred to as a "secretary on the wrist".  It's interesting that many of us think of alarm watches as useful for waking us up. But for you younger readers out there, back when dinosaurs roamed the earth, and we typed out our correspondence with an Olivetti Lettera 22 -

Courtesy of Wikipedia

We did not receive Google Reminders on our cell phones. Owners of alarm watches would use them frequently during the day to set the alarm for meeting reminders, etc.

Yes, the Vulcain Cricket was indeed a sensation. So it made sense that the press corps would present such a watch to President Truman. But then the history gets murkier. 

So stay tuned, we're going to shed some much needed light!

The Vulcain Cricket I Would Make

Okay, Vulcain currently seems to be intent on making a zillion versions of the same models, just in different colors... meaning...

Lots of SKUs and several "highly collectible limited editions" are still unsold despite fairly modest limited edition numbers....

And I love my two Crickets, the Paajanen / Ditisheim -

And my date model -

But as I am doing the final edits on the Vulcain Cricket / US Presidents volume 2 edition, I am reminded of what President Johnson, and (at the time) Vice President Nixon mentioned about their Vulcain Crickets - that they depended upon them to act as their alarm clock around the world.

So rather than taking the same base model and slapping a new dial on it with a dubious limited edition claim to fame (next time, maybe reach out to the families before naming a model after their relative?) maybe try something a little bit different?

Now there is something in the not-too-distant past, the Cricket Aviator -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

And for my money, this would be one to re-heat. But I might propose a crown + pusher as opposed to the two crown + pusher format. This was done quite nicely by both Girard-Perregaux and Baume Mercier.

Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb

At any rate, that is what I would do. But then again, nobody in Le Locle has asked for my opinion on the matter ; )

A Grand Day Out - Visiting Vulcain HQ in Le Locle Part 2

Although Vulcain is no longer based in La Chaux-de-Fonds they have not abandoned the importance of having actual watch makers do actual watch making.

The villa that houses Vulcain's HQ is not just a show piece or administration center.  On the third floor is where all the assembly magic happens.

Now needless to say, alarm movements are not lying around thick on the ground, be they automatic or hand winding. You can't pick up the phone and get a delivery from ETA or Sellita (at least insofar as an off the shelf solution). So if you want to make an alarm watch - or more importantly if you want to PRIMARILY make alarm watches, you're going to have to (at least to some extent) do it yourself -

I was lucky to get to watch movements being assembled. I had noticed that while thee were a lot of the other things that I have seen in manufacturers like Girard-Perregaux and Corum, what I notably did not see at Vulcain were machines for milling movement parts. Carla Duarte explained to me that the components for the movements are all "made to order" and delivered to Vulcain's atelier in Le Locle, where the alarm enabled movements are assembled one by one right there. And in truth this makes quite a bit of sense. Rather than investing a crazy amount of money for machinery to produce (admittedly) a relatively small number of movements, Vulcain has taken the very sane, very rational approach of working with partners who can machine the individual components, and deliver them. The very talented watch makers at Vulcain take these individual parts, and bring them together for the complete movement.

And this is a part of what makes what Vulcain is doing now so special.  Going from this -

to this -

And finally to this -

So this is the present of Vulcain. Tune in next time where we take one last look around the "Vulcain Villa" and take in some of the rich history surrounding the brand.

Until then - Tempus Fugit!

The Classic Sonata

From Ulysse Nardin -

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

 Available in two versions - rose gold (above), and stainless steel.

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

Here are the pertinents, straight from Ulysse Nardin -

Movement 

caliber UN-67

Silicium escapement

Oscillator: Patented I8 inertial felloe of the balance with silicium hairspring (4Hz)

 

Power-Reserve:

approximately 42 h

 

Winding: 

self-winding 

 

Functions:

hours, minutes, seconds

Alarm with cathedral gong

Dual Time system with instant timezone

adjuster Big date in a double window,

forward and backward date corrector

 

Dial:

Black or White

 

Case:

18 ct rose gold or stainless steel

 

Diameter:

44 mm

 

Water Resistance:

30 meters

 

Crystal:

anti-reflective sapphire crystal 

 

Case back:

sapphire crystal

 

Strap:

leather strap with folding buckle

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Classic Sonata

From Ulysse Nardin -

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

Here are the pertinents -

Reference
673-05/93-BQ 

Limited Edition
To 99 pieces 

Movement 

Caliber UN-67
Front side/back side etched anchor with integrated safety pin in Silicium 
Front side/back side etched roller with integrated impulse finger in Silicium
Silicium cut hairspring Patented inertial oscillator 

Power-Reserve 

Approximately 42 h 

Winding 

Self-winding 

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds
Alarm with cathedral gong
Dual Time system with instant timezone adjustor

Big date in a double window, forward and backward date corrector 

Case

Titanium / stainless steel 

Dial

Blue with hours indexes 

Diameter
44 mm 

Water-resistance 

30 m 

Crystal
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal 

Case-back
Sapphire crystal 

Strap
Leather strap with folding buckle 

Something Alarming from RGM

What is great about RGM is that there is always something interesting, and always made with care.

Courtesy of RGM

Not so very long ago they announced that they would be offering (on a very limited basis) an alarm watch again.  And this is one of them.

This is the 110-A Automatic Alarm.  The case is stainless steel and measures 38.2 mm in diameter.

The movement is new old stock that was rescued from obscurity and now powers these very limited offerings.

The above is an alarm date, and the one below is alarm and GMT -

Courtesy of RGM

Here are the details -

Movement Caliber: RGM- AS 5008/ La Joux-Perret 5900 - Automatic, 31 jewels, 28,800 vph. Rhodium  finish - Cote de Geneve lines and perlage.

Functions: Hour / Minute / Date / Alarm,  110A-GMT also has a GMT function.

Case: Polished and Satin Brushed Stainless Steel. 38.2 mm X 12.8 mm, Sapphire crystal. 20mm lug width and water-resistant to 5-ATM.

Wake Up!

Oscar Waldan is, to quote George Costanza - "Back in Business Baby!"

Courtesy of Oscar Waldan

This is the Retro Alarm -

38 mm 18k gold.  The movement is a an A. Schild hand-wound version with date.

White enamel dial and red alarm indicator - this is THE BOMB!

Alarming News from DOXA!

Okay, sorry, I couldn't resist the low-hanging fruit ; )

Courtesy of DOXA

I am a sucker for an alarm watch.  There is something to be said the assurance that you will not oversleep and miss your early morning flight back home.

CLÉMENT GILLMAN STEEL

This is one of my all time favorites from JEAN – MAIRET & GILLMAN!

Courtesy of JEAN – MAIRET & GILLMAN

JEAN-MAIRET & GILLMAN have made some amazing pieces, but I am a sucker for GMT and alarms.

It's Hard Not to Be Romantic About Watches - Sonnerie GMT

If you have an unhealthy attachment to watches, at least as unhealthy an attachment as I have, there will be many beautiful timekeepers that will pass in and out of your life.  Some you will own and wear, some will be phantoms that pass you by.

Courtesy of Dubey & Schaldenbrand

Nautical 70s from Vulcain

This is a pre-BaselWorld piece from Vulcain.

Courtesy of Vulcain

A limited edition of 300 pieces, the Nautical 70s from Vulcain has already brought a smile to my face!

CASE
Case: 316L steel
Back: triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber and
enabling underwater use of the alarm function
Dial: orange re-edition of the 1970s model
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 17.60 mm
Glass: hesalite glass
Water resistance: 300 metres / 990 feet  

VULCAIN CRICKET MANUFACTURE CALIBRE V-10
Movement: mechanical 12-lignes manually-wound alarm
movement, 25 jewels, 157 parts, twin barrels, equipped
with Exactomatic system, 48° angle of lift
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws
Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, alarm, fixed
dial with decompression-table indication and 60-minute
graduated rotating inner bezel ring activated by a screw locked
crown at 4 o’clock
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: approx. 20 seconds

STRAP
Strap: black and orange water-repellent leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle

Corum Chargé d’Affaires - BaselWorld Preview

I am a sucker for alarms - and Corum has delivered what I have been waiting for!

Courtesy of Corum

This is the Chargé d’Affaires, part of Corum's Heritage collection.  Here's the scoop straight from the source -

Launched in 1956 and featured in the very first Corum catalog, this alarm watch has been re-issued in a virtually identical form, to the delight of all those who revel in aesthetic codes directly inherited from the past.

Endowed with a 46-hour power reserve, this Chargé d’Affaires watch is equipped with an entirely exceptional movement: the very same caliber that once beat at the heart of the original model in 1956. This historical movement has been entirely restored using vintage tools and techniques, while meeting current standards of quality and finishing. This mechanical hand-wound Caliber CO 286 is fitted with two barrels, each with its own winding crown: one to control the hands, and the other the alarm. This arrangement makes it possible, alongside the central hour, minute and seconds hands, to power an alarm sounding for over 12 seconds on a particularly clear note. This mechanical gem is visible through the case-back and reveals the sound bridge engraved with the inscription “1956 – Chargé d’Affaires – 2012”.

The elegantly understated face of this timepiece pays tribute to the aesthetic perfection of historical watches. The silver-toned dial is punctuated by applied hour-markers, while the minute track is delicately transferred, as is the “Chargé d’Affaires” legend. These indications are swept over by dauphine hour and minute hands, and a baton-type seconds hand, while the alarm pointer is easily recognizable thanks to its arrow-shaped red tip.

The only slight change from the original model lies in the slightly larger 38 mm-diameter case. The Chargé d’Affaires is issued in a 200-piece limited and numbered edition: 150 in 5N 18K gold fitted with a black alligator leather strap with pin buckle; and 50 in 18K white gold with an identical strap. This alarm watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. 

www.corum.ch   

Alarming!

One of my favorite complications is the wrist alarm.  Of course most thoughts would immediately go to Vulcain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Girard-Perregaux even.  And these are beautiful and worthy alarm watches.
Beautiful - but they certainly come at a price.

So what about the rest of us, are we to be consigned to either wear a G-Shock, or buy something that we may be able to afford some day, just not right now?

Auguste Reymond to the rescue!

Courtesy of Auguste Reymond

This is the "Boogie" Alarm from Auguste Reymond.  I like most everything about this watch except the name.  Sorry, I guess you can't have everything ; )

But to my way of thinking, this is what an alarm watch should be - legible, tactile, easy to use.  Hours, minutes, seconds, alarm.  No more, no less.  And while there are beautiful new in-house/manufacture concoctions out there that do truly amazing and wonderful things, Auguste Reymond has chosen the reliable (and dare say it) pedestrian AS 1475 Alarm movement from A. Schild.  Pedestrian in the best possible way.  When you need to get this serviced, a good, competent watch maker will be able to help you.  A most un-complicated complication!

www.augustereymond.ch

VULCAIN 50S PRESIDENTS’ WATCH PRESIDING OVER GREAT DESTINIES

Courtesy of Vulcain

Few models can claim to have found their way through history on the wrist of the world’s most powerful figures. Such is the case of the Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch, equipped with the legendary Cricket calibre, which has lived up to its moniker since the 1950s. Powered by the hand-wound Cricket V-11 alarm movement, it now appears in a new steel-case version framing a silver-toned, anthracite or smoky grey dial enhanced by a central guilloché motif.

The Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch is pursuing its noble destiny. The story of this historically charged model introduced in 2010 continues through new mechanical and aesthetic interpretations. Inspired by a 1950s Vulcain model while meeting the highest contemporary standards, it comes in a two-tone 18K rose gold / steel version (with silver-toned or anthracite dial) or in steel (with a choice of silvered, anthracite and smoky grey dial). The subtle central guilloché motif accentuates its precious nature and distinguishes these models equipped with a hand-wound Vulcain alarm movement. The 42 mm-diameter case is water-resistant to 50 metres and makes a perfect fit on every wrist. Reflecting the characteristic design features of its illustrious forerunners, the dial with its slightly cambered circumference features applied hour-markers and Arabic numerals, as well as Dauphine hands with a decidedly Fifties look. This new 50s Presidents’ Watch is also fitted with a cambered sapphire crystal and a sapphire crystal caseback adorned with the stylised “V” for Vulcain.

At the heart of this new model that so powerfully revives the legend beats the 191-part hand-wound Cricket V-11 alarm movement. It is equipped with two barrels – one to deliver the energy required for the central hours, minutes and seconds functions, and the other to power the alarm which sounds for a full 20 seconds. It has a balance oscillating at 18,000 vibrations per hour and a 42-hour power reserve. A direct descendant of the famous Cricket alarm calibre that has been shaping the Vulcain legend since 1947, the Cricket V-11 movement drives a date display in addition to the other time indications, as well as the famous alarm function that has shaped the reputation of Vulcain watches and significantly contributed to earning them their undisputed status as “The Presidents’ Watch”.

THE 50S PRESIDENTS’
WATCH MANUAL

CASE: Steel 316L or two-tone 18K rose gold/steel - Diameter 42.00 mm - Length 50.00 mm - Height 12.40 mm with sapphire case-back revealing the stylized “V” for Vulcain

DIALS: silver-toned guilloché motif with rhodium-plated index, anthracite guilloché motif with rhodium-plated index, silver-toned guilloché motif with 5N index or anthracite guilloché motif with 5N index

CRYSTAL: domed shape sapphire

WATER RESISTANCE: 50 meters / 160 feet

STRAP: Louisiana Alligator leather – Strap dimensions : 22/18 mm

BUCKLE: Steel pin buckle or steel folding type with security pusher

VULCAIN CRICKET MANUFACTURE CALIBRE V-11: 12-lignes mechanical hand-wound alarm calibre with date, 17 rubies, 191 parts, double barrel, equipped with the Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°

FUNCTIONS: hour, minute, seconds, alarm, date window

FREQUENCY: 18'000 vibrations per hour

POWER RESERVE: 42 hours

ALARM LASTING: 20 seconds

What I want -

For those of you who read my post about Vulcain in Finland (i.e. prior to the recent relaunch), I have now found the NEW Vulcain that is at the top of my wish list -

Courtesy of Vulcain

This is the Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch Heritage Gold & Steel.  This is as close as I have seen to that watch that teased, taunted and tormented me back in Helsinki.  I have started saving my pennies!


Some details if you're interested -

Caliber Vulcain Cricket V-10

Technical characteristics:12-lignes mechanical hand-wound alarm caliber, 17
rubies, 157 parts, double barrel, equiped with the Exactomatic
system, lift angle 48°

Dimensions diameter 28mm, height 5.6mm

Frequency18,000 vibrations per hour

Power reserve42 hours

Alarm lasting15 to 20 seconds

Movement: Cricket Calibre V-10

Functions: hour, minute, centre seconds, 20-second alarm lasting

Case: two-tone 18K rose gold/steel, 39 mm in diameter, sapphire caseback revealing the stylised "V" for Vulcain

Water Resistance: 50 meters / 160 feet

Strap/Bracelet: alligator leather

Read all about it  -

www.vulcain-watches.ch/

GMT with an Alarm - Graham Swordfish Grillo

Courtesy of Graham

One of the watches that I often to consider to be the "one that got away" was Alain Silberstein's GMT Alarm watch.  Both Baume et Mercier and Panerai offered something similar (if more subdued).

But now Graham has come up with something that embodies a top notch complication in a rugged, ready for action watch.  Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT - and an ALARM!

www.grahamlondon.com