Showing posts with label #UlysseNardin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #UlysseNardin. Show all posts

Thursday, August 17, 2017

The Transfer Window Opens - With Resolutely Modern Aplomb!

At Ulysse Nardin.
Courtesy of HBO and The Wire
Despite what longtime readers might think, I am full of mixed emotions as I write this.  Yes, I had already received the word that the CEO of Ulysse Nardin had dropped his papers and was off to pursue new opportunities.  Or as the somewhat antiseptic press release informed us, Ulysse Nardin had found a new CEO who at least spoke French as a native language - Patrick Pruniaux:


He replaces Patrik P. Hoffmann who, having played a key role in Ulysse Nardin’s development for many years, and ensured a seamless integration into Kering from 2014, is looking to move in a new direction for personal reasons.


I think you should take that missive with as much salt as you feel necessary to get it down. Let's face some hard facts -

To call the integration of UN into Kering as seamless is a bit like calling the relationship between the Dassler brothers (Adi of Adidas and Rudolph of current Kering company Puma) as cordial and fraternal. And I am sorry if that sounds harsh, but this is a press release that is a wee bit disingenuous.

But I come to praise Caesar, not to bury him.  When you work on the other side of the BaselWorld table, and you look at brass tacks, it is hard not to understand that certain forces were brought to bear on Mr. Hoffmann.  And in fairness, that pressure was not unreasonable and not unfair.  Ultimately we have ask ourselves, what built Ulysse Nardin 2.0?  It was Rolf Schnyder and Ludwig Oechslin.  Mr. Hoffmann was platooned to Florida back in the boom days where (in fairness) he built a strong US business.  

But even before he moved back to Switzerland to take the helm of the good ship UN following the passing of Mr. Schnyder, the business in North America was already shifting and losing traction.  And not only in North America.  Business was drying up and the business as a whole was changing.  But he and his communication team continued to spool out the same message, the same ideas, and the same hot air that had been produced for the past 10 years.  While a racing yacht, and a wonderful (but commercially unviable) collection of watches can be sexy, they do not necessarily convert into sales.  And ultimately?  Sales move the needle.

At Tempus Fugit I have made fun of their latest marketing catch phrase:  Resolutely Modern Aplomb!  And I have done it because, frankly, it demonstrates a disregard for the basics of commercial communication.  It demonstrated a failure to understand the language being used, the nuance and the basic meaning of the language itself.  In fact, it demonstrated a willful disregard for the people being communicated with.  And when I look at it now, it seems that it was a harbinger.  A harbinger of a willing disconnect with the customer.  Which, I guess, is why Mr. Hoffmann will be pursuing other opportunities beyond Ulysse Nardin.

But as I said at the outset - I am torn.  In fairness to Mr. Hoffmann, he has not done anything different from Biver, Hayek or others who have navigated the rocky shoals of the watch business with more success than (given his abrupt departure) he has.

Truth be told, who are the people REALLY suffering from a poorly performing Ulysse Nardin?  Maybe Mr. Pinault the younger (although he is married to Salma Hayek and has more money than God, so this is a First World problem on steroids), or, perhaps the actual employees of UN who may or may not be losing their jobs if things don't improve.  Yes, the people who actually make the watches and do the day to day business, they might pay the price for lesss-than-hoped for performance.

Mr. Hoffmann?  He will go on to another brand, or another opportunity in a different industry.  And in fairness to him, it is his opportunity to show that Kering (via UN) made a mistake. 

Whether they did or not remains to be seen.

But the Carousel calls everyone, sooner or later -





 
 

Tuesday, April 4, 2017

The Marine Annual Calendar

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

From Ulysse Nardin

Here are the pertinents -

Reference:
153-150/EO 

Movement:
caliber UN-153 
in-house designed movement
Silicium escapement and spring, 28,800 v/h

Power-Reserve:
approximately 52 hours

Winding:
mechanical, self-winding

Functions:
chronograph with central seconds hand
30 minute counter at 3 o'clock
small seconds counter at 9 o'clock
annual calendar, backward/forward setting
date at 6 o'clock

Case:
43 mm stainless steel, water resistant to 100 meters.
sapphire crystal display back, anti-reflective sapphire crystal top

Dial:
Grand Feu white enamel, blued roman numerals

Strap:
leather with folding buckle

 


Tuesday, October 4, 2016

The Classic Sonata

From Ulysse Nardin -
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
Here are the pertinents -

Reference
673-05/93-BQ 


Limited Edition
To 99 pieces 


Movement 

Caliber UN-67
Front side/back side etched anchor with integrated safety pin in Silicium 

Front side/back side etched roller with integrated impulse finger in Silicium
Silicium cut hairspring Patented inertial oscillator 


Power-Reserve 

Approximately 42 h 


Winding 

Self-winding 


Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Alarm with cathedral gong
Dual Time system with instant timezone adjustor

Big date in a double window, forward and backward date corrector 


Case


Titanium / stainless steel 


Dial


Blue with hours indexes 


Diameter
44 mm 


Water-resistance 

30 m 


Crystal
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal 


Case-back
Sapphire crystal 


Strap
Leather strap with folding buckle 

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

The Lady Diver

From Ulysse Nardin -


Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

And in all honesty, this is a watch that stands as a reminder that just because you can do something, doesn't mean that you should.   But like any good train wreck, it is often hard to look away.

I need to be fair here and underscore that in certain markets, this watch might do exceedingly well.

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
And a few of the versions are not quite so unsettling.  


Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

My assumption is that the strap comes in four parts and is secured by either the gold, stainless steel  or titanium inserts (some with diamonds) as I would not like to imagine what replacing those items  would cost when the rubber starts to crack or get smelly ; )

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

So here are the pertinents, direct from Ulysse Nardin -


Movement 

caliber UN-320
In-house designed movement Silicium escapement and hairspring 



Power reserve 

approximately 42 hours 


Functions 
small seconds and date at 6 o’clock Forward and backward date setting 


Case 

18 ct rose gold or stainless steel



Bezel


rotating and fluted bezel, white, black or red 


Dial 

white mother-of-pearl or black dial 



Diameter 

40 mm 


Water-resistance 

300 m 


Crystal


anti-reflective sapphire crystal 


Strap 

exclusive rubber strap with rose gold or titanium insert set with diamonds or with stainless steel insert, deployant clasp 

Friday, July 1, 2016

Diver Black Sea

From Ulysse Nardin -

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source  -

Reference
263-92B0-3C/920

Movement
Caliber UN-26, dimension : 11 1⁄2 ’’
28 jewel

Power-Reserve
approximately 42 h

Winding 

self-winding

Functions
Chronometer with power-reserve indicator at 12’oclock small seconds counter and date at 6 o’clock

Case
stainless steel with a matte-black rubber coating

Dial
open dial in black with colored wave grid
luminescent indexes and hands

Bezel
rubberized bezel set with colored ceramic baguettes

Crown
screw down security crown, covered with rubber

Diameter
45,8 mm

Water-resistance
200 m

Crystal
anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Case-back
sapphire crystal

Strap
rubber strap with two ceramic elements and folding clasp 

Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Hourstriker “Horse”

From Ulysse Nardin -

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

Reference 

6106-130/E2-HORSE 
6109-130/E2-HORSE

Limited Edition to 28 Pieces

Movement

Caliber UN-610



Power-Reserve

Approximately 42 hours



Winding 

Self-winding



Functions 

Hourstriker
Striking of hours and half hours
Automatic chime activation system
Animated Jaquemarts



Case


18ct rose gold or platinum



Diameter 

43 mm



Water-resistance 

30 m



Dial


Black onyx, with two “horses” Jaquemarts in 18t gold

Crystal 

Anti-reflective sapphire crystal



Case -back 

Screwed case-back with sapphire crystal

Crown 

Water-resistant



Band 

Leather strap, with folding buckle 

Thursday, August 13, 2015

And a Shout-Out for the Misogynists out there!

Just when I think that the industry has "checked itself before it wrecks itself", leave it to Ulysse Nardin to drain a little more water out of a very shallow pool.

With a headline like:

Ulysse Nardin Reveals Its Sensual Side with Hourstriker Erotica Jarretière.

Images of Burt Convey in a leisure suit cavorting with Barbi Benton in the "Pirate's Cove" while Isac serves up "Champagne Cocktails" to the rubes from Wisconsin.
Luckily - Doc was on hand to dispense antibiotics as needed ; )
Shamelessly borrowed from the "info-web"
(Author's note, this image is apparently from Fantasy Island, but you get the idea).

To quote the "wordsmiths" from UN:
"The scene exposes lovers, viewable from the interior balcony, enjoying each other."

Does anyone else smell "Astroglide"?

This (to me at least) is about as subtle as the come-on the aging sculptor uses on the young ingenue -
"To me, the human body is a work of art... take off your bra!"

So you see, it's not just a watch for people who like sex, it's a watch for people who like to WATCH other people having sex!

I mean, really they are doing a public service!  Perhaps you like looking at naughty pictures - and not just pictures but automated copulation!  You shouldn't have to suffer the indignity and embarrassment of going to the newsstand or kiosk and getting caught perusing the merchandise by the chairwoman of your son's PTA group.  Don't worry, Ulysse Nardin has got  you covered!

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

That's right, you're a "sophisticated" sort of fellow with more dollars than sense, you've earned it!

I can just hear the reaction when you show it to some "sweet young thing" of the Millennial age group that you are trying to impress at the sports bar:

"It's a world - class timekeeper, babe... see?"

"Eewww... gross!"

I realize and accept that I am probably sounding a bit prudish, but honestly, the 70's are over and with luck most people reading this who lived through those "sexy" times have gotten rid of their crabs and their chancre sores have cleared up.  But for those of you 40+ guys out there who are convinced you've still "got it", this just might be the watch for you.

In fairness, there is a historical basis for the erotic watch and they have been done in a tasteful manner, but this watch is about one step above putting on a Hustler trucker's hat with a Trojan Condom T-shirt.

Shamelessly borrowed from the "info-web"
Okay, bad example...

Here's the thing, no doubt we pretty much all like sex - that is sort of a given.  But just like we all go to the toilet, maybe we don't need a watch commemorating it?

I'm "Audi 5000" -