News reached the North Shore HQ of Henki Time earlier this AM that Schwarz Etienne not only had a swanky new (used) HQ, but also had appointed a new Managing Director - Florian Brossard. While I am not familiar with Mr. Brossard myself, I fired up the "Google Machine" and discovered that he had worked at Montblanc back in the earlier part of this century, but am not sure what he has been up to lately. I would assume that after a year without Mauro Ergemini at the helm (at least if his LinkedIn is to be believed) Mr. Brossard will fill that gap. I have met Mr. Egermini in BaselWorld at the "new and improved" Schwarz Etienne launch (back when Hall 2 was still a thing). Mr. Egermini was also involved in the white label program which seemed to have traveled under a few different flags - e2o innovations, TMH (Tradition Mécanique Horlogère), and La Division du Temps.
Now swimming somewhere in all of this holding company soup is Ming (the less said about their approach to after sales customer service, the better) which is where Mr. Egermini now finds himself as the head of their Swiss operations.
For those of you old enough to remember, it's not unlike the 70s American sitcom - SOAP.
Now back to the new facility. I have actually walked past it twice on my way to visit Graham's former shared facilities (Le Joux Perret & Arnold & Sons). A little travel tip from your old pal Henki - it is also next to a fairly large home improvement center, department store and a hypermarket that does sell quite tasty ready to eat hot sandwiches. If it is the same building that I think it is, I applaud the money folks at Schwarz Etienne for rehabbing the building. On a personal note, and it might just have been my impression walking past it on a rainy October afternoon, it looked very out of place amongst the suburban sprawl, so maybe this second life will be a positive thing.
At any rate, we wish Mr. Brossard bon chance in his new role.
The MING 17.06 will be available to order on 19 September, 1PM GMT exclusively from www.ming.watch. The 17.06 Copper is priced at CHF 1,250 and production restricted to 300 pieces per annum.
And here are the pertinents, as received from MING this morning -
MING 17.06 Copper specifications:
Functions: hours, minutes
Case, dial & hands:
o 38mm diameter, 10mm thickness, stainless steel 316L with solid caseback, mixed brushed and polished finish o 43.9mm lug to lug measuremento Sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sideso Rigid case without spacer ringso 100m water resistance with triple crown gasketso Composite, multi-layer, three-part sapphire dial in metallic copper o Hands coated with Super-LumiNova C1o Dial ring printed with Super-LumiNova C1 • Strapso Smooth calf tan with white stitching, handmade by Jean Rousseau Paris o 20x18mm, quick release with curved fittingo Will fit 160-210mm (6.1”-8.3”) wrist circumferenceo Signed pin buckle • Movement:o Automatic mechanical movement ETA 2824-2 Top grade modified for MING o 38-hour power reserveo 28,800 bph (4Hz)o 25 jewelso Hacking functiono Movement adjusted to five positions with a 250-hour test program
Leather travel pouch handmade by Studio Koji Sato
Limited to 300 pieces per calendar year
2-year warranty against defects
Made in Switzerland
Retail price CHF1,250 inclusive of worldwide shipping
This was the latest offering from Ming. Limited to 10 pieces it went quickly. This is the MING18.01 Abyss Concept Although it is a nifty bit of kit, the asking price of CHF 6,500 seemed a bit dear to me given the provenance and the use of an ETA 2824. I find this more amusing when one noted Ming devotee "poo-poo'd" other brands using that movement as being "less than" owing to the use of the 2824, but I guess that only applies to other people's watches. Clearly there are Ming fans out there, and apparently at least ten of them willing to pony up for this one. As I said, it is a nice looking watch and an interesting departure for Ming, and I am glad that they had a successful outing with this one. Here are the pertinents -
Functions: hours, minutes, continuous seconds
Case, dial and hands:
Stainless steel 316L with solid caseback
40mm diameter, 13.8mm thick, 46mm lug to lug
3.5mm thick sapphire crystal with antireflective coatings on both sides
Rigid case without spacer rings
Water resistance of at least 1,250m/ 125 ATM/ 4,100ft
Screw down crown with triple gaskets and red safety indicator
Three-part composite dial with Super-LumiNova X1 coated sapphire
Beadblasted hands filled with Super-Luminova X1
Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60 clicks
Ceramic bezel insert filled with Super-LumiNova X1
Straps and bracelet
All new 5-link quick release bracelet with double deployant clasp
1x grey textured calf with alcantara lining
1x racing blue textured calf with alcantara lining
1x black textured calf with blue edges and alcantara lining
1x blue smooth calf with light blue edges and alcantara lining
1x black smooth calf with grey stitching and alcantara lining
All straps are 20x18mm, handmade by Jean Rousseau Paris and curved quick release with fitted buckles
Lugs accomodate both curved and straight bar straps
Movement
Top grade ETA2824-2 automatic movement
38 hour power reserve
28,800 bph (4Hz)
25 jewels
Central seconds with hacking function
Movement adjusted to five position with a 250 hour test program
2-year limited mechanical warranty
Made in Switzerland
Limited to 10 pieces
Delivery package includes the bracelet, five Jean Rousseau straps, a handmade leather travel roll by Studio Koji Sato and a watertight Pelican case.
This is the latest offering from the collaborative at Ming, the 19.03 Worldtimer. It has been created in partnership with Manufacture Schwarz Etienne.
Courtesy of Ming
And as befits a watch with it's inspiration in Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur holds pride of place on the dial's location chapter ring.
A gradient sapphire dial sets off a truly stunning effect. But this world-time machine is just as beautiful under the hood -
Courtesy of Ming
A wonderful confection of precision, a micro rotor automatic.
Courtesy of Ming
This is the latest offering from the collaborative at Ming, the 19.03 Worldtimer. It has been created in partnership with Manufacture Schwarz Etienne.
Courtesy of Ming
And as befits a watch with it's inspiration in Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur
Functions: hours and minutes, 24 hour world time, microrotor automatic winding
Case, dial & hands:
39mm diameter, 11.2mm thickness, grade 5 titanium
Double box sapphire crystal with double-sided antireflective coating
Sapphire dial, radial gradient from opaque black to transparent
Chapter ring, logo and rear markings laser-etched into the sapphire crystals
Polished bezel and lugs; finely brushed caseband
Hands and dial ring with Superluminova X1
Rigid case without spacer rings
50m water resistance
20mm lug width
Movement:
Schwarz-Etienne for MING Cal. ASE220.1
Partial skeletonization with 5N rose gold coating and bead blasted bridges
Hand polished anglage
Hacking function
~70 hour power reserve at full wind
Bidirectional automatic winding with high-mass tungsten microrotor
Movement adjusted to five positions
Straps:
Includes 2x calf leather straps by Jean Rousseau Paris
20mm width, curved bars with quick release
All straps come fitted with signed stainless steel buckles
Will fit 160-210mm wrist circumference
Travel pouch:
Handmade in Kuala Lumpur from vegetable tanned natural leather
1-year warranty against defects
Made in Switzerland
MING continually aims to improve aesthetics and
functionality of products where possible; to this end we reserve the
right to make changes prior to final delivery.
Now in fairness sports fans, this is not an inexpensive item. Ming are offering an "early bird" incentive for pre-orders, and it is my understanding that in order for the project to be fully realized, enough pre-orders will need to be realized as well. Should it be of interest to you, the purchase information can be found here:
Now I see A LOT of watches, and this past BaselWorld I got my first look at some of the Ming watches. As a reminder, Ming is a collaboration among six watch enthusiasts, one of whom was kind enough to let me in on the story, and see the product up close and personal.
Courtesy of Ming
The thing is, the Ming collection are at once recognizable without being "knowable", and I realize that is a bit of a contradiction in terms. What I mean is that in a short span of time, Ming has been able to develop a design grammar that is clear, distinct, and not derivative. Without massive, obnoxious branding, PR noise, or logos screaming at you, you instantly recognize the Ming. And that is something that should be celebrated!
Courtesy of Ming
So at the risk of sounding sentimental, or just that old, cranky fart who waxes on about substance over style... This is special. This is the Ming 17.03 GMT with burgundy dial. And although I know that a black dial is more practical, I am pretty dippy over the burgundy. One last point regarding the GMT function. This is actually a pleasantly subtle, yet practical display. I like it, and I want one. So there you have it.
Should you be so inclined, this time machine is very, very reasonably priced at 1,300 CHF. And it is available direct from Ming. Here are the pertinents -
Functions: hours, minutes, and additional 24h timezone on inner ring
Case, dial & hands:
38mm diameter, 9.8mm thickness, grade 2 titanium case with solid caseback, all brushed
43.9mm lug to lug measurement
Sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides
Rigid case without spacer rings
100m water resistance with triple crown gaskets and nitrogen filling
Composite, multi-layer, three-part sapphire dial
Patterned burgundy dial
Hands coated with Super-LumiNova C1
Dial ring printed with Super-LumiNova C1
Straps
1x dark chocolate nubuck with white stitching
1x anthracite nubuck with white stitching
20x18mm, quick release with curved fitting
Will fit 160-210mm (6.1”-8.3”) wrist circumference
Signed pin buckle in brushed grade 2 titanium
Movement:
Automatic mechanical movement Sellita SW330-1 top grade
42-hour power reserve
28,800 bph (4Hz)
25 jewels
Hacking function
Movement adjusted to five positions with a 250-hour test program
Watch with a strap weighs 49g
1-year warranty against defects
Made in Switzerland
Delivery package includes two nubuck straps with buckles fitted
(dark chocolate/ anthracite), a travel pouch by Thirtyfour Bespoke of
Kuala Lumpur, and a screwdriver for bracelet adjustment
To celebrate their anniversary, the team at Ming are offering two limited edition pieces.
For those of you hoping to lay hands to the Ultra Blue,
my understanding is that it was sold out (or at least pre-ordered out)
well before the official announcement of either of these pieces. Which sort
of begs the question, why have a press embargo? But in fairness to Ming,
they seem to know what their customers want, and by doing a slow
reveal/teaser more than 25 people who frequent their home page and
social media channels were persuaded to part with CHF2,500, so there you
have it.
Case, dial & hands: o Grade 2 titanium case with solid case back o 38mm diameter, 9.8mm thickness, 43.9mm lug to lug o Sapphire crystal with anti reflective coating on both sides o Rigid case without spacer rings o 100m water resistance with triple crown gaskets and nitrogen filling o Sunburst metallic blue dial o Composite, multi-layer, three-part sapphire dial with Super-LumiNova C1 o Beadblasted hands filled with Super-LumiNova C1 • Straps o 20x18mm, quick release with curved fitting o 1x dark chocolate nubuck with white stitching o 1x anthracite nubuck with white stitching o 2x signed pin buckle in grade 2 titanium
• Optional bracelet o Grade 2 titanium, 5-link type, screwed o 20mm lug width with quick release mechanism for easy fitting o Concealed double folding clasp in stainless steel
• Movement: o Automatic mechanical movement Sellita SW330-1 top grade o 42-hour power reserve o 28,800 bph (4Hz) o 25 jewels o Hacking function o Movement adjusted to five positions with a 250-hour test program
1-year warranty against defects Made in Switzerland Limited to 125 pieces
Retail price o CHF1,525 including two straps o CHF1,825 with two straps and matching bracelet
And the Ultra Blue, gone but not forgotten -
Functions: hours, minutes, independently adjustable 24h timezone Case, dial & hands:
o Heat-blued grade 2 titanium case with solid case back o 38mm diameter, 9.8mm thickness, 43.9mm lug to lug o Sapphire crystal with anti reflective coating on both sides o Rigid case without spacer rings o 100m water resistance with triple crown gaskets and nitrogen filling o Sunburst metallic blue dial o Composite, multi-layer, three-part sapphire dial with Super-LumiNova C1
o Bead blasted hands filled with Super-LumiNova C1
• Straps o 20x18mm, quick release with curved fitting o 1x dark blue alcantara by Jean Rousseau Paris o 1x dark chocolate nubuck with white stitching o 1x anthracite nubuck with white stitching o 1x signed pin buckle in heat-blued grade 2 titanium
o 2x signed pin buckle in grade 2 titanium
• Movement: o Automatic mechanical movement Sellita SW330-1 top grade o 42-hour power reserve o 28,800 bph (4Hz) o 25 jewels o Hacking function o Movement adjusted to five positions with a 250-hour test program
There are very few start-ups over the past few years that have had the sand to put out something fairly different. Fewer still that have been able to follow-up that first salvo with further models that, like the first, continue to impress and sell well. But then again, not every watch project/start-up is Ming.
For those of you unaware, Ming is the creation of a group of watch enthusiasts who had an idea for a better mouse trap. In their own words -
MING is a horological collective formed and funded entirely by a group of six watch
enthusiasts from around the world under the leadership of Ming Thein, a photographer,
designer, business strategist and above all, a lover of watches. Together, the MING team
draws from over 80 years of total experience collecting fine timepieces – ranging from
vintage to avant-garde; from quality affordables to six-figure commissioned independent
pieces. When we started collecting, iconic pieces were more accessible and a genuine sense of
value and joy accompanied each acquisition. Our goal with MING is to bring back this sense
of excitement and discovery through a series of pieces that show considered deliberation
and refinement in every detail, but remain within reach of a wider audience. We will be the
first to admit that we don't manufacture in-house, but rather use the most appropriate
suppliers for the design intent and price point. The majority of our suppliers also work with
major Swiss brands; assembly, regulation and testing is performed in Switzerland, with final
quality control done personally in Malaysia.
MING is our way of sharing our experience with enthusiasts who want to discover
watchmaking substance beyond brand, for budding aficionados and seasoned collectors
alike.
So in essence, "This is our thing, we think it's cool, we hope you do too!" I also appreciate the transparency - they use assemblers. A little inside baseball for you - they use assemblers just like several very large brands in the big groups do. The difference? Ming is not trying to play "alternative facts" with you through a multimillion dollar "bullshit bingo" advertising campaign with "instafamous" twerps running around New York City mugging like buffoons. They simply design a great watch.
Courtesy of Ming
The new 17.03 GMT is as advertised - it is a 2 time zone watch. And this is achieved by an interior GMT ring with a smaller, independent indicator. This is a nice touch, because all too often a GMT function is realized with the addition of fourth hand plopped in with the hour, minute and second hands. This is a cleaner and clearer approach.
The bracelet is another nice touch -
Courtesy of Ming
Solid and tactile, without being bulky. A nice, elegant solution.
Courtesy of Ming
And the packaging and extras are a very nice touch - two additional leather straps are included.
And the price is perhaps one of the best for a watch of this quality, aggressively affordable - CHF 1,650!
Here are the pertinents -
Functions: hours, minutes, and additional 24h timezone on inner ring
Case, dial & hands:
38mm diameter, 9.8mm thickness, grade 2 titanium case with solid caseback, all brushed
Sapphire crystal with double antireflective coating
Rigid case without spacer rings
100m water resistance with triple crown gaskets and nitrogen filling
Composite, multi-layer, three-part sapphire dial
Textured burgundy dial
Hands coated with Super-LumiNova C1
Dial ring printed with Super-LumiNova C1
Bracelet
Grade 2 titanium, 5 link bracelet
20mm lug width with quick release mechanism for easy fitting
Will fit 140-232mm (5.5”-9.1”) wrist circumference
Concealed double deployant clasp in stainless steel
Links held by screws
Straps
1x dark chocolate nubuck with white stitching
1x anthracite nubuck with white stitching
20x18mm, quick release with curved fitting
Will fit 160-210mm (6.1”-8.3”) wrist circumference
Signed pin buckle in brushed grade 2 titanium
Movement:
Automatic mechanical movement Sellita SW330-1 top grade
42-hour power reserve
28,800 bph (4Hz)
25 jewels
Hacking function
Movement adjusted to five positions with a 250-hour test program
1-year warranty against defects
Made in Switzerland
Delivery package includes titanium bracelet, two nubuck straps with
buckles fitted (dark chocolate/ anthracite), a travel pouch by
Thirtyfour Bespoke of Kuala Lumpur, and a screwdriver for bracelet
adjustment
