H992 - and the H992 × Astro

It seems that there is always something new to be discovered. And such is the case of H992. 

I first clapped eyes on the H992 collections last year in Geneva. This past year I got to spend more time with Maurizio Milani, who handles sales for the brand.

And in that time, I also got to spend more time with the various collections, and well... let's just say I might be raiding my piggy-bank yet again!

           

This is the H992 × Astro, and I am beguiled.

The case is of stainless steel, and measures 42 mm in diameter. The movement is Sellita's SW260-1, but with a COSC upgrade! 

     

So why is that such a big deal? I mean, plenty of COSC watches out there. But at this price point?

CHF 1'592.00?!?

This is really something special.

Okay, but beyond the tech niceties, I gotta be honest, I am seriously crushing on the dial.

Courtesy of H992

The dial is courtesy of Astro, a world-renowned artist known for his murals and street art.

If you are as obsessed as I am, here are the pertinents:



MOVEMENT:
SW260-1 automatic, COSC certified

CASE:
Black PVD steel,  or Steel

Case diameter
42mm

Case thickness
10.1mm

DIAL:
Astro

STRAP:
Rubber

Water resistance
10 ATM 100 meters

CRYSTAL:
Sapphire, double anti-reflective treatment on the inside AR43, thickness 1.40mm

LIMITED EDITION:
52

In Case You Missed It - The Heritage Small Second 1938 COSC

From Tissot -

Courtesy of Tissot

Back at the turn of the century, I was, well, a younger man living and working in San Francisco. Although obsessed by watches, financially speaking I was not exactly in the Rolex demographic. Yes, I had walking around money, but let's just say I was only going a few blocks ; ) 

Over a three year period I acquired three different Tissot Heritage pieces that bore names connected to Portugal, where Wendy and I had lived for one year back in the 90s. The Lisboa, the Porto, and the (de) Janeiro. And they were quite nice. Situations evolved, desires changed, fortunes won and lost, you get the idea. 

But I keep coming back to the Tissot Heritage pieces as many of them offer a wonderful watch with a COSC certificate at a price that won't wipe out your "pin" money.

Courtesy of Tissot

And the Heritage Small Second 1938 COSC truly ticks all of the boxes. It is Goldilocks sized (just right) at 39 mm. The dial is clear and legible, and for once the date window wasn't squibbed by trying to have it, and the number 3 occupy the same space.

And the price is approachable at $1,095 (at least here in the lower 48).

Here are the pertinents, straight from the folks in Le Locle -

Technical specificities

• The Tissot Heritage 1938 pays tribute to Tissot's history. The 39 mm stainless steel case adds elegance and finesse. The vintage-inspired dial reinforces the watch's timeless aesthetic.

• SKU

  T1424281108200

  Collection

  Classic Traditional

  Weight (g)

  109.00

  Warranty

  3 Years of Warranty

  Country of manufacture

  Switzerland
• Length

  39.00

  Width

  39.00

  Thickness

  9.82

  Lugs

  20.00

  Water resistance

  Water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bar (50 m / 165 ft)

  Case shape

  Round

  Case Material

  316L stainless steel case

  Case options

  See-through caseback

  Crystal

  Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
• Energy

  Automatic

  Movement

  Swiss automatic

  Power reserve

  Power reserve of 42 hours

  Caliber

  11 1/2'''

  Diameter (mm)

  25,6

  COSC

  Yes
• Dial color

  Grey

  Indexes

  Arabic
• Strap/Chain reference

  T605049903

  Strap details

  Stainless steel

  Strap color

  Grey

  Buckle

  Jewellery clasp with safety, Standard buckle, Interchangeable quick release bracelet

  Buckle options

  Interchangeable quick release bracelet

The MARINE TYPE 3

From Laventure -

Courtesy of Laventure

This is the latest drop, offering two different versions. A white dial (above), and a black dial (below) -

Courtesy of Laventure

Limited to 100 pieces each, here are the pertinents -

Technical specifications

CASE

• Titanium Grade 23
• Diameter : 38,00 mm
• Thickness (without crystal) : 8.90 mm
• Length lugs to lugs : 46.20 mm
• Finishing : « tribofinition » / « stonewashed »

BEZEL

• Titanium Grade 23
• Fixed
• 60 graduations filled with black lacquer

CROWN

• Titanium Grade 23
• Diameter : 8,00 mm « Big Crown »
• Screwed

DIAL

• « Amagnetic » Sandwich Construction
• Galvanic black top plate, Super-LumiNova white pad printing
• Soft-iron bottom plate (Faraday cage)

HANDS

• Hours, Minutes and Seconds, matt white + Super-LumiNova white

WATERPROOF

• Laboratory-tested depth 300 m / 1000 ft to ISO 6425

ANTI-MAGNETIC

• Faraday cage
• Laboratory-tested resistance to magnetic fields to ISO 764 standard

STRAPS

• Main strap PFKM rubber and Titanium Grade 23 buckle
• Textile / Elastic secondary strap

The movement

Calibre 4 produced by Sellita on a “SW300-1 b” base for LAVENTURE®.

- Swiss Self-winding mechanical movement

- Frequency 4Hz, 28'800 Alt/h

- 25 jewels

- 56 hours power reserve

- Gilded 3N circular-grained pearl pattern plate

- Bridges "Côtes de Genève", diamond spiral, LAVENTURE engravings, gilded 3N

- Openworked oscillating weight, satin-finish, paper spiral, curved « soleillage », LAVENTURE engravings, gilded 3N

- Officially “CHRONOMÈTRE” certified

The Sh&! that Killed Elvis!

From Formex -

Courtesy of Formex

This is the Essence. The model pictured above is their new CHRONOMETER DÉGRADÉ version. 

Now in fairness, there are a lot of stainless steel sport watches out there.  But this one is a bit special.  From the dial color and texture, to the depth of the date window (assuring older eyes like mine will be able to read it).  The movement is a certified chronometer.  

Courtesy of Formex

And all of that is cool, but there are two things that set this apart for me -

1.  The suspension system.  I am going to let Formex speak to that in their own words -

Since the beginning of Formex in 1999, the patented Case Suspension System has been an integral part of every single Formex timepiece. Its two main functions are:

• absorbs shocks to protect the mechanical movement from heavy impacts
• adds to the comfort on the wrist by adapting to the wearer’s movements

Modeled with high-performance bikes and racing cars in mind, the Formex patented case suspension system works by integrating four springs between the upper and lower watch case. The result is the ultimate shock absorption system designed to protect the mechanical movement and deliver unparalleled comfort to the wearer.

This patented case suspension system brings form and function together for Formex Swiss watches. It’s functional, it’s state of the art engineering and it’s unquestionably unique - all in one watch.

All too often, we get a mechanical watch that we are really excited about, but if we are honest with ourselves? It is really not comfortable. Now we can try all sorts of arguments, case shape, case materials, etc., but the truth is that it is a solid piece of metal on your wrist. With the Formex suspension system, the watch actually has some "give" to ensure a more adaptable, comfortable fit. It also acts as additional shock absorption.

Courtesy of Formex

2.  PRICE!  At $1,265 for with the bracelet, this is a "Screaming Jesus on a Ferris Wheel" deal!

It is available in some other compelling versions including blue, brown and silver (below)

Courtesy of Formex

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

Swiss Made Sellita SW200-1 (self-winding) Automatic (Chronometer grade), officially certified by COSC. 26 jewels and glucydur balance wheel. Date display. Custom-built skeleton rotor with thermally blued screws. 38 hours power reserve. 

CASE

• Diameter: 43mm
• Height: 10mm
• Lug width: 22mm
• Lug-to-lug: 49mm
• Water resistance: 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet)
• Weight: 80g (case only)

MATERIAL

• Bezel: Stainless steel 316L
• Case: Stainless steel 316L
• Glass: Sapphire crystal (front and back) with anti-reflection treatment

STRAP

• Italian calf leather straps with curved spring bars, Quick Release function and carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented Micro-Adjustment System. 
• Black rubber strap with curved spring bars, Quick Release function and carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented Micro-Adjustment System. 
• Stainless steel bracelet with Quick Release and Micro-extension function. 
• All Essence straps and the bracelet can be changed by hand without the use of tools. The carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented fine adjustment system can be changed without tools and can be used for all Essence leather and rubber straps. 

DIAL

Vertical brush finish with horizontally cut lines which are CNC machined into the dial base one by one. BGW9 Super-LumiNova on hands and indexes. (NOTE the Degrade dial has horizontal lines).

July 9

Another bit of Henki lore.  While the automatic Rado was my first automatic watch purchase, my first automatic watch was the Mido that my father was given the day before I was born - July 9th.  As we are on the same day, I had a quick browse through the current collection, and if I were picking?  I'd pick this one -

Courtesy of Mido

This is the Mido Commander 1959, Chronometer Version.  As mentioned before, I was a lifelong fan but a series of frustrating exchanges with the head of their North American offices made a lifelong passion fade into a disappointing memory.

But as tomorrow is my day, and a day I usually look back on these things, if I were looking to reignite that Mido passion, this would be the one I'd pick.

Here are the pertinents, per Mido -

CASE
Material:
Stainless steel
Diameter:
37.00 mm
Between lugs:
5.90 mm
Water-resistance:
5 bar (50 m / 165 ft)
Crystal:
Hesalit crystal
Case height:
10.45 mm

MOVEMENT
Movement type:
Automatic
Automatic ETA 2836-2 COSC
Chronometer COSC
Date

DIAL
Dial colour:
Silver
Hour Markers:
Applied indexes

BRACELET
Milanese mesh in stainless steel

The Pandial Marina 2

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

This was previewed at BaselWorld back in March, but now it is out and available!

The case measures 43 mm in diameter, and is of stainless steel.  The 3 register chronograph boasts a COSC rated (and verified) Valjoux movement.  Hours, minutes, seconds, date (at 6 o'clock), and of course chronograph.

As with all things offered by Brellum, it is very sensibly priced at CHF 2,490, and available direct, to the public from Brellum HQ.

Not-So-Basic Black

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

This is the latest version of Brellum's first series, the Duobox Chronometer.

Courtesy of Brellum

It is available on either a strap or a Milanese style stainless steel bracelet.

Courtesy of Brellum

This beautiful Swiss Goodness can be yours for as low CHF 2,213 for the strap version (WITHOUT VAT).  And frankly, I challenge you to find a chronograph with this level of finish, attention to detail, and a COSC certified movement for even double the price.

Here are the pertinents -

Case 
Stainless Steel 316L, DIN 1,4435
41.80 mm in diameter, 16.20 thick
Sapphire Crystal BOX type, anti-reflective
Water resistant to 50 meters/5ATM
Sapphire crystal display back

Dial
Black, domed dial with applied indices treated with Luminova

Movement
Caliber - BRELLUM BR-750-1
Automatic chronometer, based on Valjoux
Chronometer Officially Certified by the COSC
Functions:
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, pulsometer scale

Available with either a leather strap or stainless steel Milanese style bracelet

A New Chrongograph

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

Although I have yet to see one in person, the photos look pretty compelling.  This is the Duobox Chronometer.

Courtesy of Brellum

Available with either a blue, silver or grey dial and a choice of a leather strap (brown or black) or bracelet.

Courtesy of Brellum

Courtesy of Brellum

This is a brand new endeavor, but it looks good so far!

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Caliber: BRELLUM BR-750-1 Chronometer Automatic (base Valjoux 7750);
Certification: Chronometer movement officially certified by the COSC;
Decoration: Spotting decoration (Beadwork), Côtes de Genève, Oscillating weight BRELLUM;
Technology: 25 jewels, 28'800 A / H, power reserve 46 hours;
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Dates, Chronograph, Pulsometer.

CASE:
Material: Stainless Steel 316L, DIN 1.4435;
Diameter: 41.80mm, Thickness: 16.20mm;
Crystal: BOX type sapphire glass with anti-reflective treatment;
Dial: BLACK Dome curved, sun satin dial with appliques and luminova;
Hands: Hands with Luminova;
Water resistant: 50m;
Caseback: Numbered caseback with BOX-type sapphire crystal;

Strap: Leather strap with fold clasps.