The M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams”

From MB&F -

Courtesy of MB&F

This is the latest of the M.A.D. Editions heading for raffle, the "Grow Yor Dreams". 

Courtesy of MB&F

This latest collaboration is with Yinka Ilori. Per MB&F -

We are so happy to announce a new collaboration created with British-Nigerian artist and designer Yinka Ilori: the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’! Known for his bold use of color and playful designs, Yinka brings an exciting perspective to his first-ever watch collaboration. Maximilian Büsser discovered Ilori in 2023 and became an instant fan: “Yinka Ilori lives in a universe bursting with colour; his work makes you feel alive, like a rush of adrenaline pushing you to go further. This collaboration has created something that brings joy, a reminder to realise your own dreams”.

Courtesy of MB&F

Like the previous M.A.D. editions, this one will use a raffle to determine who gets to order one of these wonderful time machines -

The Raffle:

The raffle kicks off on Tuesday, September 2 at 2PM Swiss time and will stay open for one full week- plenty of time to sign up! 

The draw will happen right after it closes, and a few days later, we’ll reveal the lucky winners.

Here are the pertinents -

• While the 42mm case and Swiss-made LaJoux-Perret movement remain as in the M.A.D.1S, the titanium rotor has been entirely re-engineered: slimmer and milled with a tree motif, then anodised in yellow, green, or blue.

  
  

• Colourful time display featuring numerals by Ilori.

  
  

• Stamped aluminium baseplate adding 3D wave textures under the movement.

  
  

• Each model features mismatched rubber straps with stamped leaf patterns, and comes with a second interchangeable white strap.

Feeling lucky? If so, here is the link to participate in the raffle -

https://www.mbandf.com/madeditions/madeditions-raffles?mc_cid=be1247fe56&mc_eid=5a7c1d2a24

MB&F Legacy Machine 2

This just in form MB&F -

Courtesy of MB&F

Legacy Machines are wondrous reinterpretations of significant horological inventions by the greatest watchmakers in history. So the contemporary look endowed by the otherworldly appearance of Legacy Machine No. 2’s dual flying balances, suspended high above the dial from four gracefully arcing arms, may at first appear paradoxical. But make no mistake; LM2 is a timepiece tracing its lineage back over 250 years to three of the greatest watchmakers who ever lived: Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747– 1823), Ferdinand Berthoud (1727– 1807) and Antide Janvier (1751– 1835).

These horological legends of the 18th century are united not only by their inventive genius, but also by the fact that they have all constructed clocks and watches with two balances.  Oscillating on high, the exalted double balance wheels of LM2 were inspired by, and pay homage to, one of the rarest mechanisms in the history of watchmaking: the dual regulator. And rarer still, the average rates of Legacy Machine No. 2’s dual regulators are transmitted by a differential to a single gear train, where the majority had two separate movements.

On display under a domed sapphire crystal cupola, the dial of Legacy Machine No. 2, which is actually the top plate of the exquisitely finished movement, is an object lesson in symmetrical simplicity. Top to bottom: the white stretched lacquer sub dial at 12 o’clock, with its blued gold hour and minute hands, is visually balanced by the large, raised differential at 6 o’clock. Left to right: the two flying balances and their escapements are identical mirror images, right down to the position of the stud holders pinning their balance springs.

While the levitated oscillating balance wheels of the binary regulators catch and hold the viewer’s gaze, it is the large planetary differential sitting proud of the dial that is the real heart of Legacy Machine No. 2. In an incredible feat of micro-engineering − and the sheer paucity of timepieces with multiple regulators connected via a differential attests to the enormous difficulty in creating such a complex high-precision mechanism − the differential has three roles: 1. Transferring power to each of the regulators; 2. Receiving the individual timing rates from each balance; and 3. Transmitting the average rate of the two regulators to the gear train, where it finally manifests itself as the displayed time. 

Courtesy of MB&F

The movement of Legacy Machine No. 2 was developed to MB&F’s specifications by award-winning watchmaker Jean-François Mojon (Best Watchmaker at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) and his team at Chronode. Acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen ensured that the movement’s aesthetic style was consistent with high- quality traditional timepieces of the 19th century and for specifying the superlative hand- finishing.

Immaculate Geneva waves, gold chatons, mirror-polished bevels and bridges designed with deliberate internal bevelled angles (which cannot be finished by machine) showcase the movement’s peerless fine finishing. Consistent with MB&F’s spirit of transparency, the names of the two men responsible for the movement are hand engraved on the back.

Two and a half centuries after three of the world’s greatest watchmakers put two balance wheels into their movements, MB&F celebrates their pioneering works by creating LM2, a timepiece with two balances hovering outside the movement.

Legacy Machine No. 2 is available in 18k red gold, 18k white gold and a limited edition of 18 pieces in platinum 950 that features a striking sky-blue dial. 

Courtesy of MB&F

While superficially Legacy Machine No. 2 may look like a traditional round watch, its three- dimensional architecture offers visual treats on multiple levels. What looks at first glance to be the main dial is actually the top plate of the movement, which has been finely engraved, plated (or blued for the platinum model) and then hand-engraved with Legacy Machine below the differential.

Slightly raised above the surface is the hour-minute sub dial, its fine gold circumference highlighting the pure white of the stretched lacquer dial, which is created by applying and heating multiple layers of lacquer, causing them to stretch tightly over the surface of the dial. The white contrasts superbly with the bright blued 18k gold hands. The hands are slightly curved to follow the slightly convex surface of the sub dial. To ensure aesthetic purity of the dial and its traditional Roman numerals, a sophisticated fixation underneath negates the necessity of visually obtrusive screws.

The planetary differential also sits proud of the surface, supported by a stunning double- arc mirror-polished bridge inset with three large jewels. The complex differential is the key element in the double regulator system and raising it just above the movements enables the mechanism to be better appreciated.

Suspended above both the sub dial and the differential are the two oscillating bespoke balance wheels. The dual balances feature Breguet overcoils, inset with four fully functional timing screws. The two balances are mirror images of each other so that they react differently to different forces. The distance between the balance wheels has been carefully and deliberately calculated to avoid resonance, as this would negatively interfere with regulation.

Those elegant majestically curved arms suspending the flying balances are sculptural works of art in themselves. The elongated triangular cut out section could not be created by the usual method of wire electro erosion, but necessitated the creation of an electrode precisely shaped to the form of the cut out section. 

Independent master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen assumed responsibility for ensuring the historical accuracy of the style and finishing of the Legacy Machine No. 2 movement.

A finely engraved sun-ray pattern on top of the movement plate (dial side) subtly catches the eye at certain angles without distracting attention from the pure white sub dial, flying balances and raised differential. But it is in the style and finish of the bridges and plates visible through the display on the back of the movement that Voutilainen has excelled in providing exquisite historical fidelity, both the shape of elegantly curved bridges and the traditionally wide spaces between the bridges and between the bridges and the case.

On the back of the movement, over-sized ruby jewels set in highly-polished countersunk gold chatons provide striking visual counterpoints to the Geneva waves traversing the sensually curved bridges. While providing historical links with the large jewels seen in high- grade antique pocket watch movements, the ruby bearings have a practical application in reducing wear by accommodating large diameter pinions and holding more lubricating oil. 

Courtesy of MB&F

ENGINE
Three-dimensional horological movement developed exclusively for MB&F by Jean-François Mojon at Chronode, and Kari Voutilainen

Manual winding with single mainspring barrel

Power reserve: 45 hours

Differential: Planetary differential comprising 3 gears and 5 pinions

Balance wheels: Two bespoke 1mm balance wheels with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials

Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating with stud holder Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz


Number of components: 241


Number of jewels: 44

Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks

Fine finishing: superlative hand finishing throughout, respecting 19th century style; polished internal bevel angles highlighting handcraft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings 

FUNCTIONS

Hours and minutes


Planetary differential transmits the average rate of the two regulators to the single gear train 

CASE

Available in 18k red gold, 18k white gold, or platinum 950 in a limited edition of 18 pieces 

Dimensions: 44mm wide x 20mm high

Number of components: 45 

SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS

High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on both sides 

STRAP & BUCKLE

Black or brown hand-stitched alligator strap with 18k gold tang buckle to match case 

The MEGAWIND from MB&F

This just in from MB&F -

MEGAWIND

Courtesy of MB&F

Time and Power – who says you can’t have it all? Derived from the iconic HM3 series, MEGAWIND combines a giant 22k gold and titanium winding rotor with highly legible time indication cones rising up from the complex asymmetric case, like truncated gold-framed monoliths.
Rotating within their twin gold and sapphire crystal frustums, the cones display hours (left) and minutes (right), with the time clearly visible from both the large numbers on the sides of the cones as well as duplicate indications on their flat caps.

However, while it may be a temporal desire that attracts the viewer’s gaze towards the three-dimensional sculptures housing the hours and minutes, it is likely to be the giant battle-axe shaped winding rotor that mesmerises the eye as it swings unhurriedly, but indomitably, over the meticulously hand-finished movement.

As they revolve, the strong, but lightweight high-tech titanium arms of the rotor intermittently reveal tantalising views through to the fervently oscillating balance wheel.

Power is nothing without control and MEGAWIND offers a perfectly harmonious balance of the two.

Courtesy of MB&F

MEGAWIND is powered by the beautifully engineered, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht-designed HM3 engine. Placing the rotor and regulator on the dial side required an inverted movement, which was only possible thanks to two large high-tech ceramic bearings – visible through the display back – that efficiently transmit time up to the revolving hour and minute cones above. Rotating domes of this size and shape posed a number of technical challenges. The hour and minute domes are machined from solid blocks of aluminium, chosen for its optimal strength to weight ratio; this reduces energy requirements to an absolute minimum.

Courtesy of MB&F

Close inspection of the case – which comprises over 50 separate components – is rewarded with a myriad of carefully considered details, including the bevelled perimeter of the rotor display crystal that adds visual flair as the angles catch and reflect flashes of light; the bespoke clover-head gold screws; and the cleverly integrated lugs attaching the strap.

MEGAWIND is available in red gold with a 22k red gold rotor or white gold with a sky-blue 22k gold rotor.

Courtesy of MB&F

MEGAWIND
Inspiration and Realization:

The original HM3 was developed to display the machine’s beautifully finished movement in operation and MEGAWIND follows the same principle. Harmoniously crafted bridges, rapidly oscillating balance wheel, gearing and MB&F’s iconic battle-axe automatic winding rotor are all open to view on the dial side. This allows the wearer to fully appreciate the art and craft of the HM3 engine by drawing the viewer’s gaze inside the highly complex machine; a machine comprising more than 300 fine-finished, high-precision components.

The movement of HM3 has been literally turned upside down to allow for an uninterrupted panorama of the 22k gold and titanium winding rotor’s powerfully graceful arcs and the high-speed oscillations of the balance wheel. Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, winner of the inaugural award for Best Watchmaker at the 2007 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, was entrusted with turning the drawings and designs of Max Büsser and designer Eric Giroud into horological reality and, with his team at Agenhor, he surpassed the challenge.

Indications:

The hour and minute cones are milled from solid aluminium to paper-thin thickness. The cones are housed within three-dimensional truncated gold and sapphire crystal cones, which are brazed together. Brazing is a high-temperature soldering technique which is aesthetically pleasing and ensures a solid, water-resistant construction.

Mega Rotor:

Independent Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva (co-creator of MB&F’s MoonMachine) provided both the initial idea for the large rotor and the name, MEGAWIND. The two 22K gold blades of the iconic MB&F battle-axe rotor on the dial make what is called a ‘mystery’ rotor because, in appearing to be symmetrically balanced instead of having a visibly off-centred mass, they look to defy the laws of physics. This ‘mystery’ is achieved by machining the underside of one of the gold blades to a razor-thin edge, so reducing its mass.

Ceramic Bearings:

Time indications are usually located on the top, or dial side, of a movement. As the movement of HM3 is inverted to display its operation, an efficient solution was needed to bring power from the bottom of the movement to the timekeeping cones at the top. Standard pinions set in jewels would have required complex, friction-generating gearing, and would require support top and bottom – a factor which would increase the height of the movement, and thus the watch.

So instead of standard jewelled pinions, HM3 features two large-diameter (15mm) high-tech ceramic bearings. Because of their large diameter, these bearings minimise the number of friction inducing gears and, due to the rigidity resulting from their ultra-high precision design and manufacture, they only require support at one end (the base) so allow for a thinner movement.

Courtesy of MB&F

MEGAWIND – Technical Specifications

Movement
Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht / Agenhor; Sowind oscillator and gear train
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph
Automatic winding rotor in 3 parts: hub in titanium with outer sections in 22K gold, fastened with 4 rivets
Time indications transmitted via ceramic ball bearings

Number of jewels:
36 (all functional)

Number of components:
270

Functions:
Hours on one cone
Minutes on second cone

Case
Available in 18k white gold/titanium or 18k red gold/titanium
Screwed-down crown

Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs):
47mm x 50mm x 17mm

Number of case components:
52

Sapphire crystals:
Sapphire cones and front and back display crystals have anti-reflective treatment on both faces

Strap & Buckle:
Black hand-stitched alligator with 18k gold and titanium custom designed folding buckle.


www.mbandf.com

A Reply from Mr. Busser Himself!

Well, I guess someone actually reads this stuff after all!

Mr. Busser was kind enough to send over these comments (reprinted with his permission, of course!):

The last seven year journey has been challenging, intoxicating and at the end of the day absolutely priceless. What is amazing is that looking back there is virtually nothing I would have done different, because we believed in our ideas, the products and more importantly the people that made it possible.

As rebellious and disruptive as one can imagine being, we are nothing without all the people who make our ideas come true and those who believe in them…Thanks again and hope we can continue amazing you going forward !

Warmest regards from Geneva,

Max

A Pair of Awards for MB&F!

It's not every year you win an award at the GPHG.  So first and foremost, congratulations to Maximilian Büsser for winning the Public prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. 

Courtesy of MB&F

But it would seem that not just the public, but also the experts agree, as he was called up on stage again, not to take a bow, but to receive the Best Men's Watch!  The Legacy Machine 1 (LM1) it seems is the people's choice, and the experts as well!

Courtesy of MB&F

And a silly little detail - according to industry experts, this is the first time the same watch has received both the public and professional award for best watch!

Congratulations to the MB&F team!

www.mbandf.com

The Latest MB&F Collaboration

This just in from MB&F -

Every so often, we like to share our work with someone we admire, in a special co-creation exercise – we do this by asking an external creator to reinterpret one of our Machines. You might remember the HM2.2 “Blackbox” designed with Alain Silberstein; the impressive “JWLRYMACHINE” by Boucheron; or the unique pieces we donated to the “Only Watch” charity auctions, created with artists Sage Vaughn and Huang Hankang. We call these special co-creations “Performance Art”.

Today we present our fifth Performance Art piece, with a new guest star. Another jeweller? A designer? An architect?

No – this time, we teamed up with… a watchmaker! Not your standard watchmaker though – a great talent who worked with the very best in Switzerland for 10 years, before returning to his native Finland :

STEPAN SARPANEVA !

Courtesy of MB&F

Stepan’s horological skills are matched by his amazing sense of design. If you’re familiar with the timepieces he has created since 2003, you’ll know one of his signature design elements: his iconic moon face. So when we gave Stepan our HM3 Frog to play with, he naturally transformed it into :

the MOONMACHINE

Courtesy of MB&F

You’ll find the Sarpaneva DNA in this new series of Machines. The twin hand-finished moons indicate the moon-phase through a Korona-shaped aperture. 

Courtesy of MB&F

The 22k gold and steel northern sky adds a stunning background: the stars are laser-pierced, allowing light to reflect from the movement underneath. And there’s a twist: this star-filled sky is in fact the revolving rotor, bringing not only metaphoric life to the MOONMACHINE, but also literally providing life as it generates power for the movement.

Courtesy of MB&F

MOONMACHINE is 3 Limited Editions of 18 pieces each, in titanium, black titanium and red gold.

www.mbandf.com

www.facebook.com/mbandf

The Renaissance Tourbillon Minute Repeater by Speake-Marin

Courtesy of Peter Speake-Marin

The Renaissance incorporates an accumulation of knowledge and experience, and takes the classical Speake-Marin elements to another level: another level of elegance, with its slim design; another level of mechanical complexity, with its tourbillon and minute-repeater; and another level of aesthetic sophistication, with its open-dial architecture featuring harmonious bridge design and superlative finishing.

What is more, the back of each Renaissance movement is decorated with a different intricate hand-engraved design making each one a unique piece.

Renaissance means ‘rebirth’ and commonly refers to the era of cultural resurgence in Europe between the 14th and 17th centuries when scholars revisited the intellectual and artistic treasures of Greco-Roman antiquity in an effort to achieve greatness in disciplines such as philosophy, art, architecture and literature.

With this Renaissance timepiece, Peter Speake-Marin has embarked on his own intellectual journey of rediscovery to harness the classical elements of Speake-Marin and reinterpret them to extraordinary effect.

In Renaissance, all of the quintessential Speake-Marin qualities are there to behold, qualities that go right back to the Foundation Watch, the very first timepiece to bear the Speake-Marin name.

Courtesy of Peter Speake-Marin

With this Renaissance timepiece, Peter Speake-Marin has embarked on his own intellectual journey of rediscovery to harness the classical elements of Speake-Marin and reinterpret them to extraordinary effect.

In Renaissance, all of the quintessential Speake-Marin qualities are there to behold, qualities that go right back to the Foundation Watch, the very first timepiece to bear the Speake-Marin name.

Renaissance features the iconic Piccadilly case; characteristic pleated crown; signature Foundation hands; intricate hand-engraving; and, as with the Foundation Watch and many subsequent models, the signature Speake-Marin topping-tool motif, here in the form of the tourbillon cage.

In addition to retracing all that he has worked on and developed since the inception of the eponymous Speake-Marin brand over a decade ago, Peter Speake-Marin has also drawn on his formative years working in antique timepiece restoration in Piccadilly, London where he worked extensively on minute-repeaters.

With its stunningly reinterpreted classical elements, Renaissance launches a bold new era for Speake-Marin.

www.speake-marin.com

MB&F at BaselWorld

I had the good fortune to review the MB&F collection with another Californian - Steve Hallock

Steve has been instrumental in helping MB&F grow and prosper in North America.

We will have continued coverage of MB&F and they will be one of the founding members of the Tempus Fugit Buyers guide. YES - you read this correctly. I will be launching an online Buyer's Guide. Stay Tuned!

Marin 2 Thalassa

This is the Marin 2 Thalassa.   Movement, dial and case all designed by  Peter Speake-Marin

To quote the creator himself:  "Stylistically I wanted this watch to be very recognisably mine. It follows very closely many of the features first seen in my original Foundation pocket watch, e.g. the topping tool inspired wheel (displaying the seconds), bridges in German silver, circular graining and large sweeping curves I am not Swiss, French, or American and my style is very representative of myself especially as I had no constraints imposed by existing movements components or constructions I was able to design this movement exactly as I wanted. This is the great advantage of starting with a blank sheet."

Peter Speake-Marin will be on a world tour starting this month sharing his newest creation.  If you can't make one of his events, follow him on via his Facebook page - http://www.facebook.com/SpeakeMarin.

Check out the details at:  www.speake-marin.com

A few Minutes with Maximilian Busser - Once Again!

This is what I get for trying to post via my Blackberry at the airport!  So, once again...

A Few Minutes with Maximilian Busser

JH - What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

MB - I was 8 years old. It was a hand - winding Jean Perret and every evening I would religiously wind it up in front of my father when he would come to say good night to me. I remember the winding would hurt, because the crown was so small…



JH - A bit about yourself please - you started out with Jaeger-LeCoultre and stayed for 7 years. But then you left - why?

MB - I had no intention of leaving! And then one day one of the top headhunters in the world (who only hunt top executives), called me up. I was intrigued… “Why would he call a small fry like me ?”, so I went down to Geneva for an interview with them. It turned out the job position was Managing Director of Harry Winston Timepieces! I laughed out loud, but the headhunter convinced me of trying the interview. I thought anyway I did not have a chance to get the job, but it could be fun. Then four months later, to my dismay… they told me I was the “chosen one”!

JH - So then after Jaeger-LeCoultre you went on to Harry Winston - this was a very large jump in terms of the types of company "profile" - from a world-class horology based type of company, to a jeweler turned watch maker - why such a jump?

MB - Because when you have never expected or dreamt of such an amazing job (head of a watch brand), the day someone gives it to you on a platter, you just cannot turn it down without having regrets all your life. Clearly I had my reservations on leaving such a beautiful company as JLC, a real Manufacture which devotes all its energy to creating fantastic mechanical calibers, to join a jeweler! But Ronald Winston (son of Harry, and then owner of the company) found the right words to convince me to join. He basically told me he would give me the freedom and support necessary to turn the brand into one of the most admired watch creators, when it was already one of the most prestigious jewelers in the world. He kept his word and let me follow my own path to develop Harry Winston Timepieces. 

JH - When you were a boy - what did you want to be when you "grew up"?

MB - A car designer. I was obsessed with this idea - doodling cars from the age of 4 to 18 ! And then my 5 years of studying engineering at university sort of killed that. I suspect that maybe I was kind of depressed during those years, and really did not connect with what I was studying. 



JH - Where did you go to school - what did you study exactly?

MB - I did a Masters in micro technology engineering. Not my most inspired choice, but it introduced me to watch making (5 hours of courses amongst 5 years of studies!) which became my passion and my life. In my life, the brightest light has always followed the darkest moments. 

JH - Who else is making watches that excite you?

MB - A few real creators/watchmakers who create not to please clients but to follow their calling. For example Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk), Denis Flageollet & David Zanetta (DeBethune) or François Paul Journe (F.P.Journe)


JH - MB&F is Maximilian Busser & Friends - where did this idea come from?

MB – It was really a matter of simply stating the obvious. Without all those amazing people around me, my ideas would just remain ideas. And I have chosen the “Friends” as much for their fantastic competence and ability as for their/our shared human values. I discovered early in life that by being totally transparent, one had nothing to lose - on the contrary you have everything to gain. 

JH - What do you like to do in your "down-time"?

MB - What “down time” ??? In the last 5 years, since the beginning of MB&F, the little time I have not been working I have devoted to my family, loved ones and friends. There was no way I could build my dream company without sacrificing hobbies, sports and social life. 

JH - How does MB&F work on a daily basis?

MB - Fast! All joking aside, MB&F is a very small, adrenaline - addicted beehive! There are only 7 of us in the company (including the two Master watchmakers who assemble every movement). It is the type of place where everyone works as if it were their own company. That is also one of the most important reasons of our success. 

JH - It appears that you spend a good amount of time meeting your fans and customers - what is your favorite spot to visit so far?

MB - I love travelling in Asia – it is so vibrant, so energy - driven, so forward-thinking! Everyone looks to the future, contrary to Europe where everyone looks back and tries to hang on to a grandeur which was once theirs. 

JH - Why watches?

MB - Because it is one of the only technical working environments where each human being is important and each person can make a difference (contrary to cars for example, where only massive corporations can hope to exist and where individuals are more or less expendable)

JH - If you weren't doing this - what would you be doing?

MB - I don’t know. I already have issues grasping the fact that I am so lucky! This is my life. This is my calling. 


JH- Who was/is your "horological hero"?

MB - Günther Bluemlein, the man who recreated Lange & Söhne, and the ex-CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC. Visionary, charismatic, engaging, knowledgeable and caring for the individuals he respected.

Visit Maximilian and read about him and all of his friends at -

www.mbandf.com

A Few Minutes with Peter Speake-Marin

Peter Speake-Marin was kind enough to share some time with me this past week - and now - A Few Minutes with Peter Speake-Marin

James  -   What was your first watch – is there a the story behind it?

Peter Speake-Marin - My first watch was a “Steve Austin Bionic Man” watch, back in the seventies with an led push button display.  I can’t say this fired my desire to become a watchmaker but it will always hold a place in my heart.  If I remember correctly, my Uncle bought a small quantity of them from a dubious source and then proceeded to given them away to the children in the area. The first ‘real’ watch I owned was a Longines military watch from 1948 that I acquired in London, when I was working in the Piccadilly arcade.  I then (probably very wrongly) opened the case back up to view the movement, and redesigned the dial in a slightly more gothic fashion. I wore that watch religiously for around 5 years before giving it to a friend who had always coveted it.  He continues to wear it today. He now lives and works for Apple in California.

J - Where were you born?

P - St Margarets hospital, Epping, Essex in 1968

J - When you were a boy, what did you "want to be when you grew up?”

P - Initially as a child, perhaps a bus driver like my father.  Following that I never had a clear view except that it had to be what I perceived to be practical and creative.  As an adolescent I had aspirations of going into architectural engineering.

J -  It seems fair to say that perhaps you were an "accidental watch maker"?  Your first interest was jewelry, yes?

P - I left school half way through my A levels and initially tried for the engineering division of the RAF.  I was under-qualified for this, and began searching for something else, which I thought would suit my skill set.  Jewelry seemed to fit, however the lack of a foundation degree in art meant I was immediately rejected from this avenue. A careers teacher in Loughton Essex dug up an old prospectus on Horology (a word that at 17 years of age I had no understanding of).  After my first visit to the school in Hackney I started the course 2 weeks after it had begun. At 17 I found something that I was good at and held the promise of travel. My Brother and Father had traveled extensively and I had always wanted to do the same. I was told that watchmaking meant that I could find work in any city in the world.

J - Are you more artistic, or more mechanical?

P - Both sides of my brain are fairly balanced which is a strength and enables me to advance projects very quickly, designing things which both are beautiful and work and can be made.

J -  There is a real history of notably famous English watchmakers - Graham, Harrison, and others.  Do you see yourself ever returning to the UK to set-up shop there?

P - Some times I play with the idea but it is already very complex producing the components I design in Switzerland, where I currently live and work. Switzerland is highly specialized in this domain. To make these types of components in the UK would be difficult. Returning to the UK to live for periods of time is a strong possibility, to set up a company making the type of watches I make today virtually impossible.

J -  Who else is making watches that interest you?

P - Nobody specifically but I am drawn to the independent world more than the larger companies because these guys feel far more authentic to me in their motivation.


J - If you weren't doing this, what would you be doing?

P - Probably driving a bus.

J -  Living and working in Switzerland - did you have any challenges/difficulties adapting culturally? How about with the language?

P - Language was the toughest element, I am not a natural linguist and although I work like a dog I am lazy at those things which I need but don’t really appreciate, French is one of them.

J - I have to say, I love the Marin-1 with your SM2 self-winding movement.  How long did it take for you to develop this new caliber?

P - From original drawings througto delivering the first watches approx 3 years

J - Any future SM calibers in the future?

P - There are already a number in developement but all based in some way on the SM2

Marin -1

J -   You seem to spend a lot of time "on the road" meeting your customers and fans - has it always been this way?

P - I spend less time than people perceive traveling, but when I do travel I try to make as much noise as possible since this is my way of reminding people that I am there and about my work. Like many independents I spend my cash on the watches and not marketing.  As a result the traveling becomes my marketing and as I meet my clients and visit different countries I share the experience on the internet. It has not always been this way but will increase over the next 2 years as my business grows until a point comes when I can be more conventional in marketing my work. This does allow me to live a childhood dream of travel.  In September I leave for a world tour which will be for at least a month.

J - You are one of the "Friends" in the MB&F "Friends" - what is that like?

P - Max has been a friend for many years and I am happy to have been able to help him start his business as he helped me and many other independents when he was with Harry Winston.

P - It seems that you might have come into watchmaking at just about the right time with the renaissance of mechanical time pieces following the quartz crisis. What are some of the differences you see between when you started out and where things are now?

P - Essentially the increased size of the collectors market and education through social media, had the internet not existed I doubt I would have been able to have the success I have had today.

J - Where do you see Peter Speake-Marin in three years’ time?

P - In a different workshop with a larger team in a constant state of development.

J - What do you like to do in your "down" time?

P - Family, food, wine.


                                       

J - Was there ever a time when you asked yourself - "what was I thinking?"

P - Every other day

J - Going out on your own was a big decision. Any regrets?

P - None

J -  Finally, any advice to the future aspiring watchmakers/entrepreneurs out there?

P - Create a real business plan which will help you to plan every element of your business and work, and assure your self a financial cushion.  Believe actions and results not words.

In addition to be one of the world's leading independent watch makers, Mr. Speake-Marin is also an author and you can purchase his book here:

 watchprint.com

Visit the Peter Speake-Marin website here:  

www.speake-marin.com