The Chamonix

From Elgé -

Courtesy of Elgé

This is a revival of the French brand Elgé. The first model to be offered is the Chamonix -

Courtesy of Elgé

The Elgé Camonix will be available for pre-order (I believe) next Tuesday.

Launch Date: December 3, 2024
Special Launch Price: €860 (price after launch: €960)
Shipping: First batch late January/mid-February, second batch late March/mid-April

Here are the pertinents -

• Movement:
  • France Ébauche – FE AUTO*
  • No Date
  • Accuracy ± 12 s/day
  • Made in France
• Case:
  • 316L stainless steel with polished & brushed surfaces
  • Water resistance 15 ATM / 150m
  • 38mm diameter x 11.6mm thickness x 44mm lug-to-lug
  • Screw-down crown & caseback
• Dial & Hands: Super-LumiNova® “Old Radium” on hands & black lacquered dial
• Glass: Sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating
• Straps:
  • Vegetable-tanned leather
  • Removable “bund” leather plate
  • Available in three color options (natural, brown & black)
• Assembly & Regulation: Regulated and assembled in France
• 3-year warranty

We will be reaching out to the folks at Elgé to see if we can get some more details on the watch and the brand as it plans to move forward.

Worth A Second Look - The HDM Champagne

I have been to Besançon twice, and I still have not managed to coordinate a visit to the workshops of Humbert Droz. This is something I plan to remedy AC (After COVID).

I don't tend to live my life with too many regrets, but as a would-be employer once told me - "You only regret the things you don't do".  

And yes gentle reader, I was there in the shop at Utinam, it was within reach, but I had another appointment to get to and then an afternoon train to Paris, but this little bijoux still calls out to me -

Courtesy of Humbert Droz

The movement is from within the French borders, and is hand-winding -

Courtesy of Humbert Droz

The case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter.

This one is Goldilocks sized - Just right!

In case you missed it the first time, here are the pertinents -

Case: Steel, diameter 39 mm, thickness 11,5 mm, lug to lug 23 mm
Crown: In notched steel and with logo
Glass: Sapphire crystal
Movement: Mechanical movement with manual winding France Ebauches 141-2
Cadran : White
Hands: Black / Steel

Bracelet: Genuine Alligator leather made in France
Bracelet buckle: Folding
Caseback: Steel with transparent opening for movement visibility
Water resistance: 30 m
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Guarantee: 2 years

The Rue Royale Power Reserve Limited Edition

From Pequignet -

Courtesy of Pequignet

A bit of splash while staying fairly somber.  Hours, minutes, large second display at 4 o'clock, and power reserve indicator at 7 o'clock. 

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

Calibre Royal movement
88-hours power reserve
Small second
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case-back

CASE

316L Stainless steel 

DIAL

White dial, Luminova hands
White small second counter with red hand and power reserve counter with blue hand

BRACELET

Red alligator strap with white stitching 
Folding buckle with clasp

Limited edition

The BR V2-94 AÉRONAVALE BRONZE

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Of the three BaselWorld previews, this is perhaps my favorite!

Here are the pertinents -

Movement: BR-CAL.301. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock and date. 

Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds.

Case: 41 mm in diameter. 

CuAI7Si2 bronze. 

Bezel with anodized blue aluminum ring and 60-minute scale. 

Screw-down crown and push-buttons. Sapphire case back.

Dial: blue sunray. 

Gilded and polished numerals and indices. 

Satin-polished and gilded skeleton Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal: ultra-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating. 

Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Strap: blue calfskin.

Buckle: satin-polished bronze

The Quadripod

From Utinam -

Courtesy of Utinam

Nearly four years to the day I first visited Besançon, I was back again.  At that time, Utinam was just about to open their boutique and they had a handful of watches along with pieces from Dodane (I believe) Bell & Ross and some of their magnificent clocks.  At the time, I picked up a 24 hour single hand watch that I quite like and still wear.  Had they had this on offer at the time, I probably would have pulled my credit card and made my purchase.


Like many brands in both France and Germany, Utinam has opted for a Japanese movement.  The shape is beguiling, and the blue dial is very pleasing.  But perhaps my favorite aspect?  The hands!  They are just different enough to engage and fascinate.

Courtesy of Utinam

Here are the pertinents -
(Keep in mind, this is Google Translated from French).

CASE 
Stainless steel form piece, design in 2 parts connected by 4 screws slipped in visible sleeves. Transparent background allowing reading of the oscillating mass. A version exists in titanium nitride Pink Gold. Height: 43mm, Width: 38mm 

GLASS 
Domed sapphire above and below for oscillating weight reading. Particularity of the “ears” at 9:00 and 3:00. 

MOVEMENT 
11½ Japanese mechanical-automatic, 21 jewels, frequency 21,600 vibrations per hour, power reserve: 40 hours. Date at 3 o'clock. 

DIAL 
Enamelled in cartridges; Blue, Ivory, Aventurine. 

HANDS 
Luminescent Hour and Minute, central second counterweight by La Practice à Morteau. 

CROWN
Engraving of the 2-column eagle, emblem of Besançon. 

BRACELET 
Lug Width: 24 mm, barenia calf leather, saddle stitching hand-wrapped by the Comptoir des Selliers in Besançon, stainless steel buckle.

Numbered limited series 
Specific engraving on request.

Two Exciting New Models from Sartory Billard

Now before we dive into these two new models, I have to make sure that it is clearly disclosed that I do have a business relationship with Sartory Billard in terms of marketing, sales and communication in North America.  Having said that, I do feel that these two new models are intriguing, interesting and offer something special at a great price.  BUT - once again - I do work with Sartory Billard, so I want to make sure that readers are aware of this relationship.

Now part of what is both great and frustrating about working behind the scenes with some brands in a consulting role is that you often have a jump on your colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estates to be able to break news.  I believe that there is such a thing as ethics, and owing to this I have waited to give other outlets first crack at the bat to share these two new models from Sartory Billard.  But as I am also a fan, as well as a consultant, I wanted to share some of my own opinions about the new SB04 models from Sartory Billard.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

This is the SB04 Blue Polished Titanium

Automatic Swiss movement, 26 jewels, 4Hz.
40 mm (without crown) 316L stainless steel case
11 mm thick
Sapphire crystal
The dial is made of polished titanium.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

And this is the SB04 Meteorite.

The specs are essentially the same, but in this instance the dial is of meteorite.

My understanding is that with both of these models, the hands are made by hand by Sartory Billard.

I have reached out to confirm pricing, and will update this post when I have it for both models.

The Yachtingraf Croisiere (Heritage)

From Yema -

Courtesy of Yema

We continue on with some of the new vintage inspired horological goodness being offered by the newly energized Yema, this is the next up.  It is singularly cool, and yes, you want this!

This is, in the big Yema picture, a member of Yachtingraf collection.  The majority of the collection being far more affordable quartz pieces.  This one is a bit special.

Courtesy of Yema

Limited to 1948 pieces total, this chronograph is also a regatta start timer function at 3 o'clock.   But beyond that?  This thing just looks so DOPE!

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

DIMENSIONS
Diameter : 39 mm
Thickness: 15.35 mm
Lug: 19 mm
316L stainless steel

BEZEL
316L steel bidirectional with black insert graduated in 
120 divisions
 
CROWN
Crown with double seal "O" ring

CRYSTAL
Domed mineral or sapphire crystal (2,00 mm thick)

WATER RESISTANCE
10 BAR / 100 m

MOVEMENT
 
CALIBER
Valjoux 7753 - ETA Swiss Manufacture

MOVEMENT
Automatic
60 seconds chronograph

FUNCTIONS
3 counters
Regatta start timer (countdown)
60 seconds counter
12/24 hour counter

POWER RESERVE
44 hours

DIAL
Black 
3 o'clock and 6 o'clock white sub-dials 
9 o'clock black sub-dial

MARKERS
Super-Luminova C3
 
STRAP
Made in France by a Bisontine manufacture, 
Perforated vegetable tanned leather strap

The Superman Heritage

From Yema -

Courtesy of Yema

Yes, Yema!  In a total shift to a concept that I personally REALLY like, Yema is now offering a so-called Heritage collection.  Very few SKUs, very beautiful, desirable watches.  This is a particularly nifty one, the Superman Heritage.  Now to be clear, Yema is also offering some other versions of the Superman that are a bit less expensive (more to come on that), but this one is really special.

Courtesy of Yema

You will note a slightly aged look to the lume.  That is a touch that I really, really like.  So much about a watch and whether you like it or not is visceral.  And this one was a visceral sucker punch that I did not see coming.

Now this one has been out for awhile, so clearly Tempus Fugit is at the end of this particular conga line -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

This is a faithful reproduction, right down to the legendary Yema bezel lock -

Courtesy of Yema

This is THE SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS!

A solid case back, stainless steel bracelet, this is the business.

Priced very fairly at $949 US with standard mineral crystal, $1,099 with a sapphire one.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

CASE

DIMENSIONS
Diameter : 39 mm
Thickness: 14 mm
Lug: 19 mm
 
CASE
316L stainless steel
 
BEZEL
316L steel unidirectional with black insert graduated in 120 divisions
Bezel with lock mechanism at 3 o'clock

CROWN
Screw-down crown
 
CRYSTAL
Domed mineral or sapphire crystal with light magnifying lens effect for better dial readability
2.60 mm thickness
 
WATER RESISTANCE
30 BAR / 990 Feet / 300 m

MOVEMENT

CALIBER
ETA 2824-2 Standard 
Self winding with ball bearings rotor
25 Rubies
28 800 A/h

MOVEMENT 
Automatic

FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, seconds

POWER RESERVE
38 hours
 
DATE
Date at 3 o'clock

DIAL
Vintage black dial
Minute/Seconds track consisting of 60 white marks
 
MARKERS
Round hour markers
Triangular marker at 12 o'clock (luminescent zero mark)
Super-LumiNova

BRACELET

FINISHING
Light-weighting fine steel with brushed effect

CLASP
Diver's extension folding clasp with minted Yema vintage logo 
316L stainless steel

 



 

The Himalaya Chronograph

From lip -

Courtesy of lip

Well, technically the full name is the Himalaya 40 mm Chronograph Sapphire ; )

Courtesy of lip

 This is a LOT of watch for a very little bit of money - 249,00 €!

The case is stainless steel (not coated brass) and measures 40 mm in diameter.  Bi-compax chronograph, date at 6 o'clock.  Miyota quartz movement, sapphire crystal.  A lot of bang for your buck... or Euro!

 
 

Wrapping Up Seven Days with the HD4 – Steel

In keeping with the spirit of the World Cup, we ran into extra time on this one, but now it's time to wrap this one up.  I have spent the last week wearing and truly enjoying Humbert-Droz's HD4.

Courtesy of Humbert Droz

The HD4 is not a straight forward proposition.  It is a unique blend of digital and analog laid out on the horizontal.  It is at once modern and retro, mechanical and space age.  And it is made by a family company based in one of my ALL TIME FAVORITE places, Besançon!

So first and foremost, this is a self-winding, mechanical watch.  It is the realization of the three current generations of the Humbert-Droz family.  The Humbert-Droz family has been involved in the watch industry in Besançon since 1956, but they only recently decided to create their own brand in 2016.

Needless to say, this is an unusual watch, but in my opinion it is not merely a novelty.  

But I am getting ahead of myself.

It's Hip to be Square!

The case is stainless steel, and is emphatically not round.  It is perhaps easiest to think of it almost as a TV screen.  There have been several watches out there that have taken stabs at this, but (and again, just my opinion here) this is the first one in recent memory that actually delivered.  

The dial, if that is what you would call it, is comprised of three different "portholes" of sorts that read from left to right, with a second hand dial placed in for good measure.  Essentially, the dial is silver, with cut out spaces for hours & minutes, day and date.  These apertures are enhanced by crystal magnifiers. 

So reading left to right, the time is 6:05 and (approximately40 seconds).  And as for the day?  Well one of the charming aspects of this watch is that it is a French language day indicator.  So today is samedi (that's Saturday to you).  The date, or day of the month is the 7th.

What's Old is New Again!

The movement is not exactly something you order directly from the supplier.  It is German, created by Bernhard FÖRSTER.  

For those of you unfamiliar, Bernhard FÖRSTER was based in Pforzheim, making cases, assembling watches, and finally their own movements.  The folks at Humbert-Droz managed to secure the movements, got them up to better-than-new performance, and here we are.

Self-winding, 25 jewels, and a movement that you are highly unlikely to run into too often.  This is special.  

And for those of you accuracy obsessed, relax!  This one is as good as I've seen in a self-winding movement for some time.  Setting is  a wee bit different, and I had a bit of trial and error with getting the date set, as my wife Wendy's French language education failed to brief her and her classmates on the esoteric linguistic points involved with setting a watch ; )  But it was actually pretty easy once I figured it out.  As with most watches you will have at least two crown positions (for non screw-down crowns).  Position 1 is when the crown is flush against the side of the case - i.e. the position while wearing the watch.  In this position you can hand wind the watch (should you be so inclined).  Position 2 is the setting position - i.e. you pull the crown out and set the hands.  But what if you don't have hands???

Well, simply imagine the two discs in the far left window to be hour and minute, but instead of the big hand counting minutes, it's the BIG number indicating the hour, and the smaller disc counting the minutes.  Which is pretty easy to get your head around as you are reading digital time - perfect for all of those UK school kids currently being challenged by a traditional clock face ; )

This still leaves the task of getting the right day and date.  You simply advance the time in sufficient stages to get to the correct day of the week (make sure you are keeping track of the hours so that you are in the correct 12 hour cycle (AM/PM), and then...

What I think is the coolest part of this movement, the date advance.  It couldn't be simpler - while in position 2, gently pull the crown out again and it will advance the date indicator one day per (GENTLE) pull.  Another interesting point about the date function advance - it will NOT let you advance the date if you are in the so-called date advance danger zone (that wonderful stretch of time just before and after midnight when certain delicate little parts are preparing for the date indicator to change).  If you have, like me, parted with some of your "disposable" income to have your friendly neighborhood watchmaker repair your watch, then patiently explain to you in the same tone of voice that might be used to explain to a 6 year-old that eating crayons is probably not such a great idea, you will appreciate what might be referred to as a "Henki-proof" feature.  Needless to say, I would not recommend that you take it upon yourself to test just how well this feature works.  Take the hint, and advance the time until your are in the clear.  And if you are adjusting the time and date à la Frank Sinatra (In the Wee Small Hours of the Morning), get the time right, and wait until a more reasonable hour to adjust the date (for example, when you are more likely to be clear headed).

This One is Just Right!

The case, as previously mentioned, is made of stainless steel, and as near as I can tell, it is 2 pieces.  

The top portion is the majority of the case itself, coming up from behind and enveloping nearly all of the top of the watch, save the dial display, covering the remainder of the watch face.

And for me this reinforces why this watch is unique.  It is somewhat industrial/futuristic looking, but it also clearly indicates that this was a design choice, not merely a case that was grabbed off the shelf.

The case back itself is fairly straightforward, secured by 4 screws, with a display back.

The measurements are rational and realistic - 40 mm x 35.  The thickness is 15 mm.  

This one falls into the Goldilocks size - it's just right.  The temptation would be to come up with a Godzilla-like case because as everyone knows, bigger is better!  Well, not always ; ) 

It fills the wrist, but does not overwhelm.  And moreover, it really keeps in the spirit of the watch.  

Overall, this is a bold idea from a young brand.  There are quite a few ways that Humbert-Droz could have gone with this concept, but I don't think it would have resonated the way that this one has with collectors and fans.  While for some of us, it reminds us of a time where "atomic age" design was all the rage.  But this is a watch that I honestly think anyone can be enthusiastic about, whether they are a watch fan or not.  It's just cool.  Having said that, I realize that this one is probably not for everyone.  Well, to quote my Mee-Maw, that's what makes a horse race.  Here's what I can say, prior to BaselWorld most of us had not been aware of Humbert-Droz.  I can also say that as I write this review, I am looking at the Instagram and Facebook photos of both writers and collectors proudly sporting their HD4s, this is a watch that has very clearly caught the public imagination.  So while you might not have heard of Humbert-Droz before,  remember the name, because you are going to be hearing a lot more about them in the future.  

As for me?  I am a full-fledged convert.  For me this watch evokes a visceral reaction, something that is challenging to put into words.  While I can cite the interesting movement, the fact that it is assembled in a magical city (Besançon), the competitive pricing, I have to be very honest that for me it's the whole package.  When you look at this watch on your wrist, it just makes you smile, and isn't that a nice experience to have?  

A wonderful watch at a fair price -  540,8€

Here are the pertinents, direct from Humbert-Droz -

Case:	Polished and Satin Stainless Steel with rectangular shape 40mm / 35mm Thickness : 15mm.
Crown:	Notched steel with logo
Glass:	Mineral with 3 magnifiers.
Movement:	Automatic and from the German brand Bernard Förster.
Dial:	Matte black or silver or imitation wood or dark green.
Hands:	Discs for minutes and hours, Red second hand.
Bracelet:	Genuine leather color black, tan brown, grey.
Bracelet buckle:	Stainless Steel folding clasp with logo
Caseback:	Exhibition caseback with mineral glass
Water resistance:	10 ATM
Functions:	Hours, minutes, date and day
Warranty:	2 years
Serial number:	1 to 400

Wrapping up Seven Days with the Sartory Billard SBO2

Time, tide and well, reviews wait for no blogger, so it is time to wrap this one up.

For the past week I have been wearing, and truly enjoying the Sartory Billard SB02 - Silver Dial version.  The review piece came with Sartory Billard's “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel installed.  I realize as I write this that many of you may not be exactly familiar with Sartory Billard, and in fairness I was not either until I met one of the owners at BaselWorld back in March -

Definitely one of the cooler marketing pieces I saw ; )

Sartory Billard is the creation of Ludovic Sartory & Armand Billard.  Based in France, the constituent components of the SB02 are brought together and assembled in the Franche-Comté, a region that I visited back in November 2015 and home to many historical French watch making legends.  

The SB02 is Sartory Billard's second creation.  Now on the surface the watch is interesting owing to its design which is not the typical round field / diver style that we seem to be getting swamped with lately.  

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The case is not quite tonneau, and not quite round.  You might also be able to notice from the above image that the inner stainless steel bezel is somewhat reminiscent of an ellipse.  Not quite round.  You will also notice that the stainless inner bezel pitches upwards somewhat, providing a really cool look and feel with real depth.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter, and 12 mm thick.  And unlike so many brands (both micro and macro) the guys at Sartory Billard opted for a solid case back, which I truly appreciate. 

The fit and feel of the watch quite good.  It is definitely of the Goldilocks school of watch sizes - not too big, not too small, but just right.

 
Now here's the clever part - actually, just one of the clever parts!  You will notice if you look at the watch dial, you will note that the inner portion is actually translucent.  And you can see the full reveal of the date at 3 o'clock.  I have to be honest, I really dig the effect.  My only suggestion would be to have an outline around the date window to make it stand out just a little bit more.  But this is a minor point, and more down to my aging eyes than any true design issue.

Apologies for the shaky camera hand, but as you can see, the lume is good ; )

Under the hood, the movement is the Miyota 8215 self-winding (automatic) movement.   For those of you so inclined, here is a link to the pertinents, courtesy of Miyota  - 

Miyota 8215

The time keeping was first rate, no major deviations (fast or slow) to mention.  And I have to say something - THANK YOU Sartory Billard for picking a movement that can be serviced pretty much ANYWHERE!  More importantly, it's worth noting how many brands - even the big dogs - are starting to use Miyota instead of ETA or Sellita.  Hours, minutes, seconds and the aforementioned date.  All functioned perfectly.

The little things that you don't find on most micro-brands are here -

 
A signed crown.  The crown itself was very tactile and precise.  Setting the time was smooth and easy.

A signed buckle.  Smooth and appropriately sturdy for the watch and strap.

And a signed strap.  But there is more to this.  Because a big part of the Sartory Billard design is to offer the watch owner the opportunity to have ONE watch that can have several different looks without the use of tools and a professional watch customizer.

Sartory Billard use quick change straps that do not require a special spring bar tool or a pocket knife.  I started the review wearing this combination -

 
The strap is the grey version (grey sued top, leather underneath).  The strap width is 18 mm at the connection point but you will notice that the strap widens out to fit flush underneath the lugs.  It is a great looking combination, and I got plenty of questions about it.

 
You will also notice the four screw heads at the corners of the outer bezel.  This is far more than an aesthetic touch.  Because every SB02 ships with a tool to remove the screws -

allowing the customer the opportunity to purchase additional outer bezels for the princely sum of...

25 € each!  

 And suffice it to say, if yours truly can easily get this thing off -

And get the other bezel on...

 with minimal fuss and no cursing?  Then ANYONE can!

 From a sunny weekend look...

To the perfect watch to wear to the office.  One important thing to bear in mind when removing and changing bezels - the bezel does NOT require excessive force or torque to secure.  When the screw stops turning with normal force?  You've gone far enough ; )

And I think, if I am honest, Sartory Billard has come up with something that several other brands have tried, but (in truth) failed to deliver on.  A modular watch that can easily be changed and modified by the customer with one tool.  How many watch brands give this much consideration to a customer?  Every watch guy and gal wants to have options.  We speak all too often about our collections.  So often, that I think it is clear that many of us have lost touch with the idea of that one special watch.  The one that we treasure and look forward to wearing every day.  And how many brands are thinking about that customer that perhaps either has limited funds, or is truly conscientious about not spending their kid's college funds in the pursuit of a new watch?  This is an amazing idea, thoughtfully designed, well manufactured and very well-priced at 542 Euros.  

Want an extra one of the "standard" bezels so you can, in effect, double your watch?  You have five to choose from -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

and it will set you back 25 Euros.  Want one of the really nice engraved limited edition ones?

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

These are hand engraved, and limited.  And in fairness they are more expensive at 125 Euros each.

Three different colors of leather straps are available and again, very affordably priced at 25 Euros.  

All too often I am confounded by a certain well-known watch media outlet that drones on and on about the "value proposition" when speaking about watches that typically cost more than $1,500.  No offense to these folks, but I find that concept a tough one to swallow.  Mechanical watches, by their very nature, should certainly cost something.  But when I think about a watch with real value in terms of its pricing, I have a hard time equating the word value with something that represents a full pre-tax pay check for many people.  A good watch that you enjoy wearing should not be such a financial hit that you might be choosing between taking your family on a vacation or buying yourself the watch.  And that is why I am so enthusiastic about the Sartory Billard SB02.

Is this for everyone?  Probably not.  The case us unusual, and some people are not necessarily ready to break away from herd mentality and try something new without a big group's name on it.  But for the right person (and having worn it this past week, I can say that I am one of them), the Sartory Billard SB02 offers a great watch with potentially limitless possibilities.  

Here are the pertinents regarding the watch as reviewed:

Sartory Billard SB02 silver dial & “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel

SARTORY BILLARD SB 02
ref. SB02.D.ST.04
Case: 
Stainless steel 316 L mirror polished and brushed on the sides.
“Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel.  39 mm in diameter, 12 mm thick.
Case back: 
Stainless steel, screw down, engraved
Water resistant: 
100m
Crystal: 
Sapphire, anti-reflective treatment with blue shade
Movement:
Automatic Movement Miyota 8215
Hands:
Hour and minute are rhodium with facets and applied Luminova. Rhodium second hand.
Dial: 
Sunray brushed and indexes applied with Luminova.
Crown: 
Stainless steel with logo

Strap:
Suede and genuine leather 

2 years warranty