Henki Shares His FAVORITE Summer Watches!

Is a post that you will NEVER see on Henki Time ; )

But with that being said, what I thought I might so is share one of the coolest watches that I once owned, one that is still available from Gorilla -

Courtesy of Gorilla

This is the RS White from Gorilla's Fastback collection. It originally came out some time back, but for me it still epitomizes what is really cool about the Gorilla brand. I bought mine back in 2019 from Watch Gauge, if memory serves me correctly. I wore it quite a bit, but it was part of my collection that I put up for sale to aid relief agencies working in Ukraine following the Russian invasion.

Courtesy of Gorilla

The case is substantial without being overwhelming. It measures 44 mm in diameter, and is crafted of varying composites and layers (more specifically detailed below). The movement is a self-winding (automatic) Miyota 8215.

There are retail locations, or you can always order direct from Gorilla.

Here are the pertinents -

CASE:
Forged carbon case
Ceramic bezel
Anodized aluminum pinstripe
Screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance
Diameter: 44.00 mm
Thickness: 13mm
With crown guards: 48.50mm
Lug to lug: 57mm
Water resistance: 100M/330FT/10ATM
Scratch resistant sapphire, double anti-reflective coating
Brushed titanium caseback
Engraved periodic symbols of the material composition

DIAL:
Matte dial
White Super-Luminova™ printed numerals
Super-Luminova™ filled hour disc, minute hand, and hour markers

MOVEMENT:

Miyota 8215, self-winding, 3Hz/21.600 vph

STRAP:

FKM Rubber & Cordura™ hybrid, titanium pin buckle 

The Malouine

From Le Forban Sécurité Mer -

Courtesy of Le Forban Sécurité Mer

If you're not familiar with Le Forban Sécurité Mer, I think you can be forgiven.  But that's the appeal of this new time machine.  That, and the fact that it's not 100% new, and yet it is.  Chew on that for a minute if you're still digesting the Tudor re-heat from one of the other big sites.

Back in 69, Le Forban Sécurité Mer made watches for the French navy and PATMAR (the maritime patrol) -

Le Forban Sécurité Mer

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

• Case diameter : 38.4 mm (39 mm with the bezel)
• Length : 45 mm lug to lug
• Case thickness : 12.75 mm
• Case in 316L steel
• Unidirectional aluminium bezel (120 clicks)
• Domed sapphire crystal
• Screw-down crown
• 100% silicone Tropic strap (lug width : 20 mm)
• Miyota 8215 mechanical movement

And the price is attractive - 

408.33€
Without VAT

Wrapping up Seven Days with the Sartory Billard SBO2

Time, tide and well, reviews wait for no blogger, so it is time to wrap this one up.

For the past week I have been wearing, and truly enjoying the Sartory Billard SB02 - Silver Dial version.  The review piece came with Sartory Billard's “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel installed.  I realize as I write this that many of you may not be exactly familiar with Sartory Billard, and in fairness I was not either until I met one of the owners at BaselWorld back in March -

Definitely one of the cooler marketing pieces I saw ; )

Sartory Billard is the creation of Ludovic Sartory & Armand Billard.  Based in France, the constituent components of the SB02 are brought together and assembled in the Franche-Comté, a region that I visited back in November 2015 and home to many historical French watch making legends.  

The SB02 is Sartory Billard's second creation.  Now on the surface the watch is interesting owing to its design which is not the typical round field / diver style that we seem to be getting swamped with lately.  

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The case is not quite tonneau, and not quite round.  You might also be able to notice from the above image that the inner stainless steel bezel is somewhat reminiscent of an ellipse.  Not quite round.  You will also notice that the stainless inner bezel pitches upwards somewhat, providing a really cool look and feel with real depth.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter, and 12 mm thick.  And unlike so many brands (both micro and macro) the guys at Sartory Billard opted for a solid case back, which I truly appreciate. 

The fit and feel of the watch quite good.  It is definitely of the Goldilocks school of watch sizes - not too big, not too small, but just right.

 
Now here's the clever part - actually, just one of the clever parts!  You will notice if you look at the watch dial, you will note that the inner portion is actually translucent.  And you can see the full reveal of the date at 3 o'clock.  I have to be honest, I really dig the effect.  My only suggestion would be to have an outline around the date window to make it stand out just a little bit more.  But this is a minor point, and more down to my aging eyes than any true design issue.

Apologies for the shaky camera hand, but as you can see, the lume is good ; )

Under the hood, the movement is the Miyota 8215 self-winding (automatic) movement.   For those of you so inclined, here is a link to the pertinents, courtesy of Miyota  - 

Miyota 8215

The time keeping was first rate, no major deviations (fast or slow) to mention.  And I have to say something - THANK YOU Sartory Billard for picking a movement that can be serviced pretty much ANYWHERE!  More importantly, it's worth noting how many brands - even the big dogs - are starting to use Miyota instead of ETA or Sellita.  Hours, minutes, seconds and the aforementioned date.  All functioned perfectly.

The little things that you don't find on most micro-brands are here -

 
A signed crown.  The crown itself was very tactile and precise.  Setting the time was smooth and easy.

A signed buckle.  Smooth and appropriately sturdy for the watch and strap.

And a signed strap.  But there is more to this.  Because a big part of the Sartory Billard design is to offer the watch owner the opportunity to have ONE watch that can have several different looks without the use of tools and a professional watch customizer.

Sartory Billard use quick change straps that do not require a special spring bar tool or a pocket knife.  I started the review wearing this combination -

 
The strap is the grey version (grey sued top, leather underneath).  The strap width is 18 mm at the connection point but you will notice that the strap widens out to fit flush underneath the lugs.  It is a great looking combination, and I got plenty of questions about it.

 
You will also notice the four screw heads at the corners of the outer bezel.  This is far more than an aesthetic touch.  Because every SB02 ships with a tool to remove the screws -

allowing the customer the opportunity to purchase additional outer bezels for the princely sum of...

25 € each!  

 And suffice it to say, if yours truly can easily get this thing off -

And get the other bezel on...

 with minimal fuss and no cursing?  Then ANYONE can!

 From a sunny weekend look...

To the perfect watch to wear to the office.  One important thing to bear in mind when removing and changing bezels - the bezel does NOT require excessive force or torque to secure.  When the screw stops turning with normal force?  You've gone far enough ; )

And I think, if I am honest, Sartory Billard has come up with something that several other brands have tried, but (in truth) failed to deliver on.  A modular watch that can easily be changed and modified by the customer with one tool.  How many watch brands give this much consideration to a customer?  Every watch guy and gal wants to have options.  We speak all too often about our collections.  So often, that I think it is clear that many of us have lost touch with the idea of that one special watch.  The one that we treasure and look forward to wearing every day.  And how many brands are thinking about that customer that perhaps either has limited funds, or is truly conscientious about not spending their kid's college funds in the pursuit of a new watch?  This is an amazing idea, thoughtfully designed, well manufactured and very well-priced at 542 Euros.  

Want an extra one of the "standard" bezels so you can, in effect, double your watch?  You have five to choose from -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

and it will set you back 25 Euros.  Want one of the really nice engraved limited edition ones?

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

These are hand engraved, and limited.  And in fairness they are more expensive at 125 Euros each.

Three different colors of leather straps are available and again, very affordably priced at 25 Euros.  

All too often I am confounded by a certain well-known watch media outlet that drones on and on about the "value proposition" when speaking about watches that typically cost more than $1,500.  No offense to these folks, but I find that concept a tough one to swallow.  Mechanical watches, by their very nature, should certainly cost something.  But when I think about a watch with real value in terms of its pricing, I have a hard time equating the word value with something that represents a full pre-tax pay check for many people.  A good watch that you enjoy wearing should not be such a financial hit that you might be choosing between taking your family on a vacation or buying yourself the watch.  And that is why I am so enthusiastic about the Sartory Billard SB02.

Is this for everyone?  Probably not.  The case us unusual, and some people are not necessarily ready to break away from herd mentality and try something new without a big group's name on it.  But for the right person (and having worn it this past week, I can say that I am one of them), the Sartory Billard SB02 offers a great watch with potentially limitless possibilities.  

Here are the pertinents regarding the watch as reviewed:

Sartory Billard SB02 silver dial & “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel

SARTORY BILLARD SB 02
ref. SB02.D.ST.04
Case: 
Stainless steel 316 L mirror polished and brushed on the sides.
“Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel.  39 mm in diameter, 12 mm thick.
Case back: 
Stainless steel, screw down, engraved
Water resistant: 
100m
Crystal: 
Sapphire, anti-reflective treatment with blue shade
Movement:
Automatic Movement Miyota 8215
Hands:
Hour and minute are rhodium with facets and applied Luminova. Rhodium second hand.
Dial: 
Sunray brushed and indexes applied with Luminova.
Crown: 
Stainless steel with logo

Strap:
Suede and genuine leather 

2 years warranty

A White Gorilla

This was, for once, a very enjoyable BaselWorld.  It brought a lot of new things to the watch world's attention, but for me personally it prodded me to dig a bit deeper into what some of the new brands were doing.  

You may recall reading about Lukas Gopp and Octavio Garcia (probably coolest first name I've heard in years) venture, Gorilla watches last year -

http://www.tempusfugit.watch/2017/04/the-fastback.html

Here in the US they are well represented by Watch Gauge
and I encourage you to check them out, because they are super-dope!

And yes, even we who write about this stuff are not immune to their charms.  So in terms of what is available right now, I have to say that the RS White has stung me with visceral dart.  It is nothing I can rationally, calmly explain.  It has attached itself to my psyche on a much more emotional level.  With a Rolex GMT you can reason out the interest - history, perceived value, popularity.  But with some watches, and the Gorilla is certainly among them, you are captivated by something far stronger than rationale.  Something speaks to you.  It often speaks in a language or tone that is not immediately clear to everyone else.  But isn't that what makes life interesting?  And this watch speaks to me loudly and clearly -

Courtesy of Gorilla

Desire is a funny thing.  Sometimes you just need to accept and embrace it ; )

A 44 mm case crafted of forged carbon, anodized aluminum,
titanium, ceramic, and steel with a Miyota 8215 under the hood and rated to be safe and dry down to 100 meters.  

Time's Up - Wrapping up the Aquamariner

Time and tide, or something like that.  The point being it's time to wrap-up the review of he Hager Aquamariner.

As previous readers may recall, I was somewhat taken with the clasp of the Aquamariner.  And not to bang on and on, but I have to share some realities about "telescoping" wet-suit extensions.  A lot of watch brands out there are incorporating them.  And many of them simply do not work.  The clasp incorporated into the Aquamariner is smooth, precise, and secure.  And as the aforementioned spill on the deck attests - pretty damn strong.

But, a watch is more than just the bracelet that holds it to your wrist.

The watch face is clear and well laid out.  and yes, that is a wee small bit of lint I did not get off the crystal - but this is real life, not a posh photo studio ; )  

The date is visible in in everyday life and the red second hand is easy to follow against the black dial. 

And unlike a lot of divers, the lume on the Aquamariner is actually quite good. 

 
The bezel is clearly marked and easy to operate.  It is unidirectional, marked for 60 minutes with a 15 minute countdown.  But with a twist - you will note in the image above the number 20 is in red.  Doesn't need to be, and honestly I don't know what the design motivation was - BUT I LIKE IT!  Now you may recall that I said that black dialed, black bezel divers are what the people want?  Well, I stand by that statement.  BUT - when you add an extra little something, like a red number 20 on the dive bezel?  It's like a little wink, it's just that little something that adds to the overall look and feel of the watch.  

The case back is solid, and smooth on the wrist without the obnoxious deep texture of a monumental motif. 

Simple, and effective in communicating the pertinent information.  

Rated to 300 meters / 1000 feet this is a watch for the briny deep.  There was no diving for yours truly.  But several trips to the pool were made, and the internals remained safe and dry.

The screw down crown is smooth in its operation and easy to use and set.   And nicely branded to boot!

So it is solid, comfortable, legible, and water resistant.  

Great, but does it tell the time?

Yes!  As with many brands, Hager has turned to the folks at Miyota for a dependable, highly accurate self-winding movement, the 8215.  The power reserve went for 43 hours (and some change).  And the time keeping was very, very good.  Miyota advertises a fairly broad range for accuracy, but the average over several weeks was + 8/9 seconds per day.  Really not too bad.

Here are the pertinents, direct from Hager:

Aquamariner
Black

41mm Stainless Steel

$450.00

Stainless steel case with a satin finished stainless steel bracelet equipped with a slidelock extension. Uni-directional rotating 60-minuted stainless steel engraved bezel with a black insert. Black dial with luminous silver-tone hands and luminescent dot hour markers. Minute markers around the outer rim.  Automatic movement with a 42 hour power reserve. Date Display at 3 o'clock. Scratch resistant sapphire crystal. Screw down crown with tube.  Solid case back.  Water resistant at 300 meters / 1000 feet. Functions: hour, minute, second.  Case diameter: 41 mm.  Case thickness: 12.75 mm. Lug to Lug: 50mm.  Band width: 22 mm.

So what's the verdict?

Let's view this from a place I like to live in, it's called reality.  At $450 this watch does exactly what it says on the box.  It works really well and looks really cool.  I realize that those are pretty basic comments, but in fairness this (or any basic diver for that matter) is a pretty basic watch.  And yes, gentle reader, that is a positive thing.  A dive watch should not challenge your intellect or abilities to set, wear, use and enjoy it.  It should have a bracelet that you can adjust yourself (and this one does).  It should look good, and this one does.  And overall, it should not represent a choice between a year of tuition for your child (state university with in state tuition).  The Aquamariner is a remarkably well-made watch at wonderfully reasonable price.  It is not a show pony or something to shove in the safe and wear only on special occasions.  This is a real watch to be worn by real guys and girls living real lives.  And quite honestly, if you feel that you need to spend more, then that is a personal choice (and one that I don't really get, but then again it is not up to me to get everything). 

But given the fact that Hager has now sold out of the black and the blue versions of the Aquamariner, and has only 10 of the burgundy bezel versions left?  

Well I think it is safe to say that I am not the only one with this opinion, and I personally might need to make a move on the burgundy bezel version before they're all gone!

The Aquamariner

From Hager 

Courtesy of Hager

This is a new series of divers from the folks at Hager.

Courtesy of Hager

These are currently available for pre-order at a very aggressive (and fair) price - $330.00 US.  You can secure yours with a 50% deposit.  Here is a link to that section of their website if you wish to check it out yourself -  http://www.hagerwatches.com/aquamariner

Courtesy of Hager

If these are half as good as the watch that I reviewed earlier this year, they are a steal at the regular price of  $450.  Here are the pertinents, direct from Hager -

Movement

---

Caliber:  Miyota 8215 automatic
Self-winding mechanical movement with metal movement holder
Functions: Quick correction of day and date, hours, minutes and seconds date display at 3 o'Clock
Total Diameter: 11.5 linge (25.6mm)
Height: 5.67mm
Jewels: 21 Jewels
Power Reserve: 42 Hours
Beat Rate: 3Hz/21'600 vibrations per hour/ Novodiac Shock Absorber
Accuracy: -20/+40 seconds per day

Technical Specifications

---

Material: 316L Marine grade stainless steel, polished and satin finished
Diameter: 41mm without crown
Height: 12.75 with solid back
Length: 50mm lug to lug
Lug Width: 22mm
Finish: Brushed with polished sides and beveled edges and satin finish
Water Resistance: Waterproof to 300 m (1000 ft)
Case Back: Solid steel screwed
Crystal: Domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment inside

Dial:  Applied luminous indexes

Bezel: Unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with disc in matte midnight blue, matte black or matte burgundy anodized aluminum with engraved makers

Hands: Mercedes hands lumed with blue Superluminova

Crown: Screw-down winding crown, with HAGER logo and midnight blue, black or burgundy anodized aluminum winding crown tube

Bracelet: Stainless Steel with brushed screw links (instead of pins) and two button clasp and two button slidelock extension system (no need for half links)